Finally found someone else who knows the easiest way to pull that 9 " pulley off the rear end😊 I don't have a forklift, but two cinder blocks, two short 2×4 "s ,a hammer , and steel driver works for me 😊
Been wanting to do a rider build for a while, you're videos are gonna play a big part in that. Great videos man, super easy to understand (especially if you have any mechanical experience) and nice work with the camera, really nice to be able to see what needs to be done clearly. Now I gotta subscribe. Keep up the great work man and thank you.
Nice ride man! cool video. Small recommendation... I have a similar model. I cut the steering wheel shaft and extended it by approximately 4 in. This allows getting on and off easy. It's also easier to steer.
Yeah i jave an LT1000 Craftsman, and the cutch and clutch idler pully were both plastic, i changed em out in the tractors first beginnins. I haven't had a plastic pully explode, but my buddy says he has.
@@wybarprojects Ha ha! I think you resemble Aaron Rodgers. I have three lawn tractors and I'm always looking for ways to modify them. Good content and I just subscribed. Greetings from Ontario, NY.
It's cool having the clutch separated from the brakes. My Troy-Bilt is Hydrostatic, but the Craftsman is much like yours. Same carb mounting, stop to shift, etc. You can accelerate like a vehicle with a standard transmission. Wow! I hate that my clutch and brakes tied together. I have to stop to change gears. I can't weld, so I can't add your mods. 😟 I'm going to repair a lot of rust in the Troy-Bilt with KBS Coating products, keep that one for its Hydrostatic and prolly sell the Craftsman when I'm done. The Troy-Bilt is a 2011 model that the owner used for two years and then left sitting in the weather after buying a zero-turn. $300, so I bought it after my Craftsman self-propelled push mower engine died at the beginning of its 3rd mowing season. Zero compression. Briggs is crap since production was moved to China! If you haven't heard of KBS Coatings, it's a fairly new company started by the Chemist from POR when he left. His products are advanced improvements over those which POR still sells. They have a product called NuMetal. It's a putty which can be formed and hardens into metal and then can be used to fill cracks, can be fortified with wire mesh for holes so it stays in place while hardening, and can be grinded and sanded, drilled and tapped, etc., once hardened. I haven't used it or any of the rust repair products yet, but it's supposed to be better than anything POR (Paint Over Rust) has, which was already very popular in things like antique car/truck repairs, mods, hot-rodding and such. Anything that rusts.
@@wybarprojects If the "good stuff" you refer to is KBS Coatings, the rust repair products need a top coat if they'll be exposed to the Sun's UV Rays, and they sell that, too. They offer a range of top coat colors. Since the NuMetal is a metal, it can have the rust repair and prevention products applied, too, to prevent rust. Their lines of products will amaze you! Check 'em out. I've seen some affordable welding machines, but had no idea of which kind to get. I like that you can hold pieces together with bare hands and fingers to make tacks. What would be a good type of welding machine to get for occasional, nonprofessional, general homeowner use? Yours feeds the welding material upon use. I'd prefer that kind over sticks, but I guess each type has its specialized application. There have been times I could have used one and projects I could have done in the past. RUclips has lots of tutorials on beginner welding I could watch. Is there a channel you'd recommend, or maybe you could make a tutorial series? Teaching when to go slow to prevent warping would be a good episode to include.
@@100vg I could definitely do some welding tutorial videos for beginners once it starts cooling down a bit; I don’t know of any good videos to recommend off the top of my head. As far as a good machine for beginners, I recommend a 120v miller, Lincoln, or Hobart. I’ve also heard great things about harbor freight’s 120v welders but I don’t have experience with the newer versions. You’ll want to look for a 120v mig welder and use flux core wire, that will allow you to do most small-medium projects.
A 120V mig welder with flux core wire. Thanks! Todd of Project Farm covered welding machines recently and a Harbor Freight model was among them. I'll find that video again and see if it covers migs with flux core wire. I remember there was a 120V version. If not in that video, I have his spreadsheet organized by topic with video links and there may be one there. Project Farm does comparison videos for everything. His channel is HUGE because he's the best at it with honest reviews. He pays for every product he tests and compares, and he's great about buying test gear and creating testing devices. I'm subscribed now so I'll be ready when you make your tutorials, maybe not with a machine yet, but I'll watch them and have access for later. Here's his most recent, but these may not be Mig: $70 vs $2,300 Welder? Let's Settle This! Weld Strength, Duty Cycle, Current Output, Build Quality ruclips.net/video/IK_Cn5lxggA/видео.html Maybe you can tell me is these are Mig, if they would be self-feeding the flux core wire and be suitable for me. Sometimes links don't work in comments, so if not, a Google search of the Title will get you there. Would a flux core wire feeding system be another purchase? I know nothing about welding except what I learned from Todd. Thanks
@@100vg some of the welders in that video do have a mig function, but it seems like he’s focusing his testing on arc welding (welding with electrodes/welding rods). When ‘flux core’ is mentioned, it’s referring to the type of wire used. If a welder is designed to use wire instead of welding rods, it comes in a ready to use package, minus the wire. I describe learning to weld like driving a car. If you learn to drive on a manual transmission, everything else is a cakewalk and arc/stick welding is very similar. It’s a more involved welding process, but once you get good at it mig is a breeze. If you’re limited on time or just want to jump right in, I would go mig
After pulling swapping, set clutch, loop old belt through ,mark a line with belt held tight while clutch pressed,, measure old belt from start to your mark,, add one inch , and that is the new belt size.
Im doing a transmission and if the pumps are shot then its gonna sit around for awhile because i don't have no money for any kit they sell for those plus i don't really need the transmission right now anyhow its one i got for free and was slipping Its transmission filter inside the transmission was dirty almost gunky it was enough the fluid couldn't pass through the filter
@@wybarprojects yeah frees good I'll know once i seal it back together and put it on a mower frame then if its still slipping in drive I'll know it's one of the pumps. the magnet on top the filter was pretty clean not much metal flakes did see someone else had it apart once before because it has a different brake screw on and spring in place
Hey sorry if im a bit late but i have the same exact mower and i want to do the same tbing you did could i get a parts list? If you see this thank you.
Thank you for the feedback! Can you be more specific so I can try to make it better in the future? Is the music too loud? Is the talking audio not loud enough? Is it throughout the whole video or only at certain spots? I’m still pretty new around here and trying to improve when and where I can.
Finally found someone else who knows the easiest way to pull that 9 " pulley off the rear end😊 I don't have a forklift, but two cinder blocks, two short 2×4 "s ,a hammer , and steel driver works for me 😊
I like the shift on the go rider ex-mower. Job well done.
Thank you!
Been wanting to do a rider build for a while, you're videos are gonna play a big part in that. Great videos man, super easy to understand (especially if you have any mechanical experience) and nice work with the camera, really nice to be able to see what needs to be done clearly. Now I gotta subscribe. Keep up the great work man and thank you.
Wow, thank you very much!
Well that's not bad😊
Nice ride man! cool video. Small recommendation... I have a similar model. I cut the steering wheel shaft and extended it by approximately 4 in. This allows getting on and off easy. It's also easier to steer.
Thank you!!
And I did the exact opposite 😂 I shortened mine by about 3-4” to get it as low as possible and still look stock
That chain can double for towing in the future.
A nice suggestion, with your idler and clutch pullies do metal ones, the plastic ones like shattering...
Good call! The clutch is the only plastic pulley, but it has already given me issues and I need to pull the plug on a replacement
Yeah i jave an LT1000 Craftsman, and the cutch and clutch idler pully were both plastic, i changed em out in the tractors first beginnins. I haven't had a plastic pully explode, but my buddy says he has.
Hey Aaron, the Packers aren't doing too good this year. Play with your hot rod lawn tractor in the off-season!
I just understood this comment thanks to another comment on a different video 😂🤣
@@wybarprojects Ha ha! I think you resemble Aaron Rodgers. I have three lawn tractors and I'm always looking for ways to modify them. Good content and I just subscribed. Greetings from Ontario, NY.
It's cool having the clutch separated from the brakes. My Troy-Bilt is Hydrostatic, but the Craftsman is much like yours. Same carb mounting, stop to shift, etc. You can accelerate like a vehicle with a standard transmission. Wow! I hate that my clutch and brakes tied together. I have to stop to change gears. I can't weld, so I can't add your mods. 😟 I'm going to repair a lot of rust in the Troy-Bilt with KBS Coating products, keep that one for its Hydrostatic and prolly sell the Craftsman when I'm done. The Troy-Bilt is a 2011 model that the owner used for two years and then left sitting in the weather after buying a zero-turn. $300, so I bought it after my Craftsman self-propelled push mower engine died at the beginning of its 3rd mowing season. Zero compression. Briggs is crap since production was moved to China!
If you haven't heard of KBS Coatings, it's a fairly new company started by the Chemist from POR when he left. His products are advanced improvements over those which POR still sells. They have a product called NuMetal. It's a putty which can be formed and hardens into metal and then can be used to fill cracks, can be fortified with wire mesh for holes so it stays in place while hardening, and can be grinded and sanded, drilled and tapped, etc., once hardened. I haven't used it or any of the rust repair products yet, but it's supposed to be better than anything POR (Paint Over Rust) has, which was already very popular in things like antique car/truck repairs, mods, hot-rodding and such. Anything that rusts.
That sounds like some good stuff, I’ll check it out.
And it’s never too late to learn to weld!! 👍
@@wybarprojects If the "good stuff" you refer to is KBS Coatings, the rust repair products need a top coat if they'll be exposed to the Sun's UV Rays, and they sell that, too. They offer a range of top coat colors. Since the NuMetal is a metal, it can have the rust repair and prevention products applied, too, to prevent rust. Their lines of products will amaze you! Check 'em out.
I've seen some affordable welding machines, but had no idea of which kind to get. I like that you can hold pieces together with bare hands and fingers to make tacks. What would be a good type of welding machine to get for occasional, nonprofessional, general homeowner use? Yours feeds the welding material upon use. I'd prefer that kind over sticks, but I guess each type has its specialized application. There have been times I could have used one and projects I could have done in the past. RUclips has lots of tutorials on beginner welding I could watch. Is there a channel you'd recommend, or maybe you could make a tutorial series? Teaching when to go slow to prevent warping would be a good episode to include.
@@100vg I could definitely do some welding tutorial videos for beginners once it starts cooling down a bit; I don’t know of any good videos to recommend off the top of my head.
As far as a good machine for beginners, I recommend a 120v miller, Lincoln, or Hobart. I’ve also heard great things about harbor freight’s 120v welders but I don’t have experience with the newer versions. You’ll want to look for a 120v mig welder and use flux core wire, that will allow you to do most small-medium projects.
A 120V mig welder with flux core wire. Thanks! Todd of Project Farm covered welding machines recently and a Harbor Freight model was among them. I'll find that video again and see if it covers migs with flux core wire. I remember there was a 120V version. If not in that video, I have his spreadsheet organized by topic with video links and there may be one there. Project Farm does comparison videos for everything. His channel is HUGE because he's the best at it with honest reviews. He pays for every product he tests and compares, and he's great about buying test gear and creating testing devices.
I'm subscribed now so I'll be ready when you make your tutorials, maybe not with a machine yet, but I'll watch them and have access for later.
Here's his most recent, but these may not be Mig: $70 vs $2,300 Welder? Let's Settle This! Weld Strength, Duty Cycle, Current Output, Build Quality
ruclips.net/video/IK_Cn5lxggA/видео.html
Maybe you can tell me is these are Mig, if they would be self-feeding the flux core wire and be suitable for me. Sometimes links don't work in comments, so if not, a Google search of the Title will get you there.
Would a flux core wire feeding system be another purchase? I know nothing about welding except what I learned from Todd. Thanks
@@100vg some of the welders in that video do have a mig function, but it seems like he’s focusing his testing on arc welding (welding with electrodes/welding rods).
When ‘flux core’ is mentioned, it’s referring to the type of wire used. If a welder is designed to use wire instead of welding rods, it comes in a ready to use package, minus the wire.
I describe learning to weld like driving a car. If you learn to drive on a manual transmission, everything else is a cakewalk and arc/stick welding is very similar. It’s a more involved welding process, but once you get good at it mig is a breeze. If you’re limited on time or just want to jump right in, I would go mig
I can hear you fine...can you not subtract the radius of the the small pulley from the larger pulley and find your belt length.
After pulling swapping, set clutch, loop old belt through ,mark a line with belt held tight while clutch pressed,, measure old belt from start to your mark,, add one inch , and that is the new belt size.
What size is the hub bore
Im doing a transmission and if the pumps are shot then its gonna sit around for awhile because i don't have no money for any kit they sell for those plus i don't really need the transmission right now anyhow its one i got for free and was slipping
Its transmission filter inside the transmission was dirty almost gunky it was enough the fluid couldn't pass through the filter
Free is always good! I hope it works out for you
@@wybarprojects yeah frees good I'll know once i seal it back together and put it on a mower frame then if its still slipping in drive I'll know it's one of the pumps. the magnet on top the filter was pretty clean not much metal flakes did see someone else had it apart once before because it has a different brake screw on and spring in place
@@Mike-su8si good luck! 🤞
You gotta flip that engine pully upside-down for more speed!
Or even use the old pully you took off
I do have plans for a pulley swap on the engine side, but I want to upgrade steering and get a helmet before I hit light speed
what kind of transmission is that?
What will happen if you don’t put that middle pulley and bearing
That’s the clutch assembly, so there would be no way to disengage the rear axle from the engine
@@wybarprojects I mean the one you said was to hold the belt a put away from the shifter rod… will it rub the belt off?
@@matthewmcguffin3508 gotcha, my bad. Without the big idler, the belt was rubbing itself when the clutch pedal was released.
Gotcha man thanks a lot
Is new pulley V shaped but old one is flat? I recon v-shaped is better, why is original flat?
You are correct, and I don't why either. Maybe it was just cheaper to manufacture?
Where did he cut the pulley and hub from
I bought them from Tractor Supply and welded them together
What size is the new pulley and the hub?
Hey sorry if im a bit late but i have the same exact mower and i want to do the same tbing you did could i get a parts list? If you see this thank you.
Ya, of course. Did you want a parts list on the whole project so far, or just on what I did in the pulley swap video?
@wybarprojects preferably the whole project. But on my mower on the pulley swap part and that's wha i really need
What was the name of the type of hub that you had to weld.
It’s just a weld-on pulley hub
sorry bit late
where did you buy the pulley
I got it from Tractor Supply
We can't hear you.
Thank you for the feedback! Can you be more specific so I can try to make it better in the future? Is the music too loud? Is the talking audio not loud enough? Is it throughout the whole video or only at certain spots?
I’m still pretty new around here and trying to improve when and where I can.
@@wybarprojects you need a mic to talk into.
@@MidwestOutlaw86 I have one (Rode Go II)
Now you can mow grass faster
Mowing is out of the question, but at least now I can keep up with my son when he races me on his four wheeler 😂
u need full face helment