I am a 4th generation jeweler, 52 year old, gemologist appraiser in Philadelphia and this video was amazing. It's the most truthful and insightful video about making jewelry I have ever come across. Beautiful!
How do you get into making jewelry? Seems like one of those things where you don’t really get into the business unless it’s a family run thing. I’m also from Philly, do you have a shop?
What does 4th generation jeweler mean? I'm genuinely curious, never had came across this term. What makes a jeweler a 1st, 2nd, or 3rd generation? Or does it refer to having your parents, grandparents, and great parents passing the jeweler occupation torch down?
Just baffles me why someone would drop all that money on stones like that and not have someone like yourself make a proper job of the ring. Outstanding work as usual.
Most people don't know the difference. Even if they're aware of the difference most people can't see the difference. Quality workmanship costs money and is difficult to show off to your friends through Instagram. Also, most people have spent up to, or slightly over their budget on the stone and that leaves little for a mount. YMMV but that's been my experience after a few decades in the trade.
@@pushingdaisies4238 Bcz you can.... It's nice to have nice things as a reward for your hard work. An engagement ring is bought for a different purpose but the essence is still same. Same reason why people buy $1000 phone even though $400 will do just a good jpb.
I'm more wondering why anyone would pay that much for a ring in the first place, regardless of intent. $200k just for a ring? Good grief that's ridiculous
@@haydenLlindsey I believe the soldering is necessary for the claws since the heat is pretty concentrated so a claw might fall off when your soldering one on the opposing side… if you’re not using different melting points of solder that would most likely happen. I only work with silver and silver is very unforgiving. I need to be very careful as to not over heat something or else it can collapsed. I heard any other metal is easier to work with. I agree that welding is a MUST for the shank attaching to the head because its really strong. But welding everything on a ring with a single melting point piece of metal sounds like a nightmare. But im still amateur so take it with a grain of salt
@@haydenLlindsey indeed, you can see the final product. He used too much solder on the prongs. The adjurs are not flat and polished and there is some porosity on the shank.
At first I thought he made it look the same with just a polish but when you did the close up pictures you can really appreciate the detail and precision that your piece had that the old one lacked
Yeah for me it's still: Ugh... ugly [and then proceeds to do the exact same thing] better now! Look at this, it's beautifull. How to make money by doing unnecessary work 101. The difference is just that one was done by machine. that's all the difference here, beside that edges are different, oh hail to rounded edges, what would I do wihtout them.
@@ARCAD3BLOOD Bro what? The customer had obviously chosen that design and was dissapointed at the quality of the ring. Bobbys job wasn't to make a new ring it was to fix the old one, which he had to completely remake due to bad craftsmanship. If you pay 200k for a ring, minute flaws aren't supposed to be visible, nor should the stones ever be able to fall off.
I massively appreciate the craftwork on display here and the attention to the minute detail. $200k on a bloomin' ring though? Who are these mad ostentatious people?
Will probably resale for $100k at best, diamond rings are such a rip off. The second you buy a ring ask the dealer what he will buy it back for and you will be lucky if its half.
@IndieLass15 yeah. Gold is honestly rare and will become even rarer- diamonds, not so much at all. Sources say that maybe by 2035-2070 gold may cease in mineable quantities
WOW. It's something how the untrained eye doesn't see things. I thought the original looked really nice. Then after you made the new mount I thought DAAAAAAAAAAAMN, what a difference. Great work.
I purchased my wife a 1.4K diamond and not knowing anything about settings the diamond fell out. The first time she found the diamond. The jeweller that fixed it said nothing about the shitty setting. The diamond fell out again a week later after having it “fixed”. Luckily a girl at work at our coffee shop seen the stone in a sugar bowl. We took it to a young lady jeweller that said its the worst job she had ever seen. She sold us another setting but actually rebuilt the claws so it would not fall out. It was a great job. It’s been years and it has not came out, my wife does take it back every year to have it checked.
Those stones were absolutely gorgeous. I am so thankful they sent it to you to fix. My cousin was a jeweler for over 40 years (he passed 2 years ago at the age of 89.) Watching you use such craftsmanship in your work makes me so happy and proud that the true trade is being carried on.
You did a lovely job. Thank goodness my engagement ring, wedding ring and eternity were beautifully made, works of art. Been worn so far 24/7 for 51 years and have been tittified after 30 years by the same jeweller for the price of the extra gold it needed as the rings wore a bit thin and he did not like that. And here we are 51 years later and still gorgeous.
I worked at a place that would cast 3D engagement rings (one piece) and quit because of this exact problem. There is no way to really clean them up. As always love the content you guys put together.🤘🏻
@@Johnne009 If you have a 200k Ferrari would you get a 2k pant job or a 20k paint job from someone who takes pride in there craft. Both paint jobs work but one will do more justice for the value of the car.
@@gwensilver8382 it's possible. Those people are called master polishers and they command top dollar. ruclips.net/video/to-as81fYDc/видео.html. and what point is it considered handmade, it always has been hotly contested in the jewellery industry. I.e. Oh he used a buffing machine to polish, is it now handmade?
This just highlights the problem with giving an unknown Jeweler a chance to make a huge name for themselves when they just want to make jewelry wholesale by casting and selling. The Jeweler that makes the ring for the stones, is the jeweler that will have top quality work and it will make each stone shine regardless of its shape and cut. Top notch Work Bobby! Jewelers like you are what establish the word "Artisan" as the premium benchmark for your industry, You Are an Artist!
I can't tell you how many of these I've seen, sized and repaired. People blow the entire wad on the stone and have nothing left for the mount. It's mental. More than that, it's frustrating to see people who don't know any better getting cheated by dishonest jewellers, of which there is no shortage.
Nobody ever thinks about the value of the band only the stone. And obviously the more expensive the stone the more you love the person you’re asking. Hahaha
We don't repair machine set, mass produced rings. Especially the halo style that became popular recently. Its so sad to see stones falling out of new engagement rings.
My stone was ~ 30K and the ban was a under 3K…a small fraction compared to the stone value. If the extra 2K breaks he bank, go for a marginally lesser stone!
When I got an engagement ring, well, first off it was weird because my wife (then to-be) and I only knew each other for 6 weeks before we decided to get married (1996) so we went ring-looking together. I was so focused on the stone, as you say, but they showed me nothing really good. The clasps all seemed to darken the stone. In the end my wife-to-be settled for one. Then a month later on the morning I was going to formally propose to her, I woke up and God said to me, you've got the wrong ring! I'm not joking. And an image of the right ring popped big into my imagation like we saw the ring here. I was like, "Where the heck am I going to find that?? How will it be the right size??" and God just chuckled and said, You'll find it. I had 1.5 hours before I was due to meet her. I was in Cape Town, and got dressed in a hurry and popped off to Cavendish Square to the one shop I could think of. 1 hour to go. Described the ring to the guy. Single giant solitaire. Pretty round from above. He goes to a drawer and pulls out a ring. "Like this?" he asks and holds it up to my eye. I kid you not, the image at that process moment was IDENTICAL to the image in my imagination from earlier. "It is - but I don't know if it will fit!" He promised to adjust it if needed. Off I went, got there with 5 minutes to spare. The moment came, I pulled out the ring, she put it on, and it fit like a glove. And she's not average size, either. I gave the old one back to the other shop (in another town) I don't know why I told you this story. At first I thought it was about my focus on the stone. I guess, I could have been had so easily.
My engagement ring is a similar style (although with much smaller diamonds). The original mount was also garbage and a jeweler had to to complete remake mine in the days before my wedding. The difference was stunning! I’m thankful there are still people like you out there who hand craft jewelry and pay attention to details!
Holding the gem within the caliper while drawing the lines was a neat little trick. Im fascinated how good the result looks even though you worked very rough in my opinion. You must be extremely efficient this way. In switzerland at the places I worked, I think we would calculate much more and we would even polish the insides of the settings. Also, just for the understanding, and as some people have already mentioned, a one-piece cast isn't necessarily a bad thing, as it can also include unique 3d drawn models which have been customized for the individual stones. And pretty much all places can be polished if you know how to do it. A good one-piece cast even means no soldered parts, which may result to the jewelry piece to maintain more stability
Yep. Big manufacturers do that on large scale too. Seamless, perfect. Or how about luxury cars? Most of those got large single-piece cast panels. Often, even the wheels are cast. Yet they look seemless, perfect no matter how you look at it.
I always wanted one of those glass rings as a child. Bought myself one in a $ store, not to wear but to console myself after taking of my diamond solitaire for the last time when my husband dumped me for a girl half my age who was pregnant already. That glass ring brightened my day because I got it from my forever friend - myself.
If I ever had a wife and I was rich, I will absolutory love to get a ring customed by you, I think it will have more value when my significant other can see the work has been put into it and why is it special. Man I wish I had your skills !! god bless you and I hope you can do it for other people who are struggling for a reasonable price it will mean so much to them.
You don't have to wish my friend. Anyone can pick up a skill using their hands, you just have to be willing to put in the time. You'd be amazed how quickly you can reach a competent level in just about anything. Skilled maybe not but competent. Try as many new things as possible, something will stick. After you've done it for 10-20 years or more you'll have some skills :)
Hold up a minute.......Bobby, you are a talented jeweler, and im a fan of your work from one jeweler to another. The original ring, as you said was a disaster, no question. The jeweler who made it should be ashamed and embarrassed for letting something like that out the door. HOWEVER, be careful you don't label castings as the boogieman. You and I both have items cast, for various reasons. As with everything there are pros and cons. The advantages to casting are clean even lines and geometry without the need for numerous solder joints. The advantages to handmade are the display of skill on the part of the jeweler and the creation of a true one off design. The disadvantages of one piece castings and handmade for that matter is TIME. If the jeweler doesn't take his time in creating the CAD or layout with precise measurements the project will be a mess. If the caster doesn't use plumb or a an acceptable ratio of plumb the castings can be porous. With handmade, the need for numerous solder joints requires numerous heatings and especially with platinum, it can be easy to overheat the solder and create porosity. No one is immune from this phenomena. Someone mentioned the ability to clean the castings, yes this can be a challenge but if the jeweler takes the time with proper tools, casting can clean up just fine. That said, even handmade items cannot be cleaned up perfectly. Solder joints can go unsmoothed as well as LASER joints. So, at the end of the day, whether you choose CAD/CAM or handmade, the MOST important thing for a customer to do is choose the right JEWELER. Bobby is certainly one of those jewelers regardless of how an item is made.Its takes YEARS of hardworking and training to become a competent jeweler. Customers need to do their homework and find a jeweler who is well respected if they want quality work.
I love watching you, you are so intense when working and you create truly beautiful pieces. I know that I’ve finally made it in life when I can get one of your creations.
I’m a huge fan of your work, and the difference in quality between the two is simply incalculable. Whoever is getting that ring is a lucky, lucky person!
Great job Bobby! Always pleasure to watch! Glad you touched up on casting subject. It’s a shame that retail stores give untidy casting job away to their customers with an excuse that it’s handmade. No matter the process, quality should always be top priority. Well done 🤝
RUclips made me watch this. They kept putting it in my recommendations for days. In the end, I'm glad I watched it. I always enjoy watching the work of master craftsmen.
I had my engagement ring made in Japan by a jeweller who was specialized in making traditional pieces for Geisha, such as Maiko's Pocchiri and he made an insane ring, it is a pure work of art. This is the gentleman who made my ring. I thought you might enjoy it.
I've been watching you for a couple years now and your videos have gotten me into jewlery. I started in Q.C. and plating at a local jewlery repair shop about 5 years ago and have persistently pushed to be a jewler. I was promoted after many times of being put off last October. I've since bought my own bench, tools and computer for CAD and am currently teaching myself through open source software. Only thing is my boss says I'm stupid for investing in all this stuff and says it's not worth it. When he gets me down I watch the video you did about how you started and it's isn't so bad for a bit. Juat wanted to say thanks for introducing me to a career I love even though the boss is kinda shitty I still love what I do
Well if you can work for a boss you can work for yourself too man. Its hard to start on your own ,but long run its worth it. Keep grinding keep working. The sun shines for everyone my friend.
It's a very difficult business that's always vulnerable to recession. When a recession hits and people tighten their belts, the first thing that goes are luxuries and the first common luxury that goes is jewellery. There's nothing easy about this career path. Even the simplest bench procedures can take years to master. I'm not saying don't do it, but be 100% aware of what you're getting yourself into.
I went to school for jewelry making & watch repair over 30 years ago , did so for 4 years . Got my CWM-20 & my CWM-21 as well as my CMWM-21 , straight out of school I studied in gemology & got my gemology certification so now I am a Certified watch maker of the 20th Century , a certified Watch maker of the 21st Century , a certified Master Watch Maker of the 21st , a Certified Jeweler, & a Certified Gemologist all in one . All this took up 5 & 1/2 years of my life & it was well worth it . If your going to do a job for someone , do it right the first time , your reputation could & will be on the line . Straight out of school I had the opportunity to work at a great company because I had the skill & schooling . Worked for them for 5 years & saved every penny I could . I found & refurbished 2 museum piece watches from the 1930s wile I was in school . I went to the American Watch Institute or (AWI) if you will to see if I could get the original paper work & maybe the original boxes they came in . When the curator of the museum & the President of AWI seen them they asked if I was willing to sell them to the museum , they made me a offer I couldn’t refuse & I put that money with the money I saved & after 10 years I started my own business in gemology , jewelry making & watch repair & precious metals . Now at 49 years of age I plan to retire when I hit 50 , my 26 year old daughter will be my successor & will be taking over the company full time next June . She has all of the certifications I do & knows the company inside & out . She has been working at the company since she was 13 years old under the table until she was 16 . I have over 206 employees all who are like the extended part of my family & watched the company grow & blossom to what it has become . I am grateful for all of them & all the hard work they do . Now is the time to step down & let the younger Generation step up to make the company go further into the future with guidance from myself & the older generation . I guess I was just one of the lucky ones that were blessed with the opportunity to start a successful business Despite the ups & downs in my company . It’s going to be really hard to step away but it’s best for business .
pretty sure someone dropping 200k on a stone for a ring for their wife has the money to buy 1000s of new mounts for it just imagine his house, boat, jet, and cars
Holy sh*t! I know absolutely nothing about jewelry and only happen to run into your video. This was a GREAT video! Super entertaining and the cinematography and editing were spot on. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I’m a relatively inexperienced jeweler (4 years and 2,000 + engagement rings, all single piece castings) and my 2 cents are that there’s a right way and a wrong way to do anything. It’s amazing the difference in quality when the cad designer has the ability to design a setting to actually fit the stones exactly. And flimsy rings are an atrocity. Don’t be scared of computer designed rings, just be skeptical of the designer and the jeweler. Make sure your jeweler can match fancy cut stones by using a 3D scanner. Look at the prongs, imagine where something might snag, and know that if you can see it, it can be polished by a skilled jeweler.
My husband had my engagement ring made for me and it's a marquise cut diamond set into white gold and it's beautiful. it doesn't have that dark bow tie mark through the stone, so whoever cut the stone did an exquisite job. The settings look elegant but sturdy and the points of the stone are protected too
5:09 When and how did you sharpen the points of the claws? Was that after the claws were bent down? I do see you doing that as well as sawing off the ends... but when do they get points? Do you remove the stone again before filing the points and them replace it afterwards, bending the claws back into position over the stone?
Bend then file/shape, using files with a purposely blunt/smoothed edge just to be on the safe side incase of any slips, then polish and it will have the same result Bobby shows
I’ve never seen a ring made before. Fascinating, you’re a fine artist/ jeweler. A lot of work went into that beautiful, secure setting. I love what you did there, so much better, stunning.
I couldn’t even tell what was wrong with it before until you did the closeups and showed the new one, it looks so much more seamless and sophisticated. It’s unacceptable how rough it looked until you changed it.
Just a little suggestion. It will be easier for the viewers to see the differences if you can put three view pictures in the viedo to compare before and after. Love you works. Thank you
jesus christ, i've only been taking jewellery classes here and there for under a year, and even i can see how shitty the original ring is. the claws were uneven as hell too! the final result is absolutely stunning! there's nothing quite like a fully handmade piece
@@OTOss8 idk, I personally love being a bench jeweller. Yeah it was definitely hard going at the start and not what I expected but my sense of pride in how far I've come has been amazing and I wouldn't have done anything differently.
@@cdawg9218 Maybe things are different where you live but over here, the business itself is what I take issue with. The skill itself? The trade? It's great. I love it too. It's why I spent so long doing it, but the business side of things is more screwed up than any other industry I've ever crossed paths with.
OK that was slick…holding the stone and scoring at the same time. I haven’t seen a jeweler do that before but I’ll be trying it out. Awesome work all around!
I don't understand why in all cases a ring that's been soldered is necessarily better than a regular cast ring. Lost wax has been around forever, and you can customize everything in wax quite easily, without having to worry about weak solder joints.
I think it has something to do with the grain of the metal having much more strength when it is extruded and formed in parts, making the metal much less brittle and long lasting?
@@mearkat1313 Nope -- that's not the reason -- forging is great for steel, but for softer metals it makes no difference. Casting a piece creates a uniform single entity, without weaker soldering joints. For instance, I've soldered gold before, and it's only as strong as the solder joint -- solder has to melt at a lower temperature than the metal it's bonding together, which means it will also melt before the rest of metal. I should also reference this by saying I don't believe that forming a ring from parts is better than casting. Cast metal rings have lasted hundreds of years. No need to worry that you'll outlive your cast ring. By the way, the artisan in this video is NOT forging the ring, such as you would a steel weapon or tool. Besides, you're not going to put great stresses on a ring as compared to the rim of a wheel. I know you're trying to compare forged versus cast aluminum wheels. That only applies to tools and things that need to have that kind of wear like aluminum. The noble metals do not have those exact properties. In fact, quenching Iron quickly makes it more brittle, whereas quenching gold makes it more flexible.
Good job you guys have done. But you're heading is misleading instead it should say, lazy Jeweler sets gorgeous/fabulous diamonds on a crappy setting!!!
I always welcome the new clips from Bobby White. This was a great 6-minute journey around the jeweller's bench. I get very queasy when I watch the initial squeeze of the claws. There is a lot riding on that process. The stone was incredible - no windows, (indicating an ideal cut). I must confess that the loose diamond made my salivary glands kick in.
I would bet a lot that this is just one of those "you get what you pay for" situations. Someone with a basic shop, and then someone with all of the best tools out there. You did a great job though, clearly no comparison. That being said... it was still handmade in theory to begin with ;)
Life can truly be odd. You got people out there who get married with plain steel wedding rings, not even costing $100, and then you got other people spending 200k on just the engagement ring alone.
@@mariatheresavonhabsburg it stops being private and personal once it hits youtube. thanks for your opinion, it's wrong, but it's your right to be as materially-oriented as you wish, i guess
man i cant get over the skill you have. every video i find myself in awe of your work. the funniest thing i had been looking for something to keep my cutting oil in like your little dish. then i realised yours is most likely gold lol. i might try to make a bronze one for myself.
Spending money on engagement rings (nothing against jewellery in general) is so fucking stupid and shows everything wrong with this society so I like to believe that guy was taking revenge in the name of humanity. Or something.
Incredible bench skills! The difference between some mass produced setting and a custom mount is night and day. In the original the mounting took away from the stones and in the properly done remount - the beauty of the stones is fully appreciated.
Wow! when you look at the before and after pictures you can see the main stone isn't even centred properly and the overall work is shocking. The finished article is just majestic, beautiful.
My mom just lost a diamond in her 30 year old wedding ring. It took 30 years for it to fall out. There are 5 others in the ring, and those are still there. The craftsmanship involved in making something that lasts with daily abuse for 30 years is astounding.
Bobby saved the day and those Diamonds. He certainly is not a sloppy jeweler, like that other guy was. What sets him apart is that he does take his craft and artistry seriously. He certainly has an eye for detail. That's where the beauty is. Such an extremely talented jeweler. 👏 way to go Mr. Bobby White, Master Jeweler extraordinaire :)
W@@W!!!! Master craftsman! Amazing and beautiful ring across the board. A new appreciation for rings of the 4 C's. You brought out the glory in stone by the quality of the ring. The whole sings high quality and eye candy to all who see it. Congrats!
I am a 4th generation jeweler, 52 year old, gemologist appraiser in Philadelphia and this video was amazing. It's the most truthful and insightful video about making jewelry I have ever come across. Beautiful!
That's Bobby White 😁
Are you a miner too?
How do you get into making jewelry? Seems like one of those things where you don’t really get into the business unless it’s a family run thing. I’m also from Philly, do you have a shop?
What does 4th generation jeweler mean? I'm genuinely curious, never had came across this term. What makes a jeweler a 1st, 2nd, or 3rd generation? Or does it refer to having your parents, grandparents, and great parents passing the jeweler occupation torch down?
@@sellingcandiesintheunderworld you answered your own question lol his parents grandparents and great grandparents were jewelers
Just baffles me why someone would drop all that money on stones like that and not have someone like yourself make a proper job of the ring. Outstanding work as usual.
Most people don't know the difference. Even if they're aware of the difference most people can't see the difference. Quality workmanship costs money and is difficult to show off to your friends through Instagram. Also, most people have spent up to, or slightly over their budget on the stone and that leaves little for a mount. YMMV but that's been my experience after a few decades in the trade.
Or why you would ever spend that much on a piece of jewelry period...
@@pushingdaisies4238
Bcz you can....
It's nice to have nice things as a reward for your hard work. An engagement ring is bought for a different purpose but the essence is still same. Same reason why people buy $1000 phone even though $400 will do just a good jpb.
@@pushingdaisies4238 tru dat….
I'm more wondering why anyone would pay that much for a ring in the first place, regardless of intent.
$200k just for a ring? Good grief that's ridiculous
I really feel bad for that customer. I know he spent a brick on that bad quality one. But Bobby took care of business. Great work as always!
Nah man he is rough soldering platinum this hurts to watch. He should be welding.
@@haydenLlindsey idk much about it but I just know dude paid for something he didn’t get. I’d me real mad about that.
@@haydenLlindsey I believe the soldering is necessary for the claws since the heat is pretty concentrated so a claw might fall off when your soldering one on the opposing side… if you’re not using different melting points of solder that would most likely happen. I only work with silver and silver is very unforgiving. I need to be very careful as to not over heat something or else it can collapsed. I heard any other metal is easier to work with. I agree that welding is a MUST for the shank attaching to the head because its really strong. But welding everything on a ring with a single melting point piece of metal sounds like a nightmare. But im still amateur so take it with a grain of salt
At least they didnt try and swap out diamonds
@@haydenLlindsey indeed, you can see the final product. He used too much solder on the prongs. The adjurs are not flat and polished and there is some porosity on the shank.
At first I thought he made it look the same with just a polish but when you did the close up pictures you can really appreciate the detail and precision that your piece had that the old one lacked
Yeah for me it's still:
Ugh... ugly [and then proceeds to do the exact same thing] better now! Look at this, it's beautifull.
How to make money by doing unnecessary work 101.
The difference is just that one was done by machine. that's all the difference here, beside that edges are different, oh hail to rounded edges, what would I do wihtout them.
@@ARCAD3BLOOD Bro what? The customer had obviously chosen that design and was dissapointed at the quality of the ring. Bobbys job wasn't to make a new ring it was to fix the old one, which he had to completely remake due to bad craftsmanship. If you pay 200k for a ring, minute flaws aren't supposed to be visible, nor should the stones ever be able to fall off.
As a retired toolmaker, I can admire the skill and craftsmanship demonstrated here. Nice to know craftsmen/women still exist.
would have loved to see a side by side - just to show off the craftsmanship - awesome job - didnt realize how easy it is to melt platinum
@Racheed Mahewolf but thats work lol
@@peterwysoczanski9391 poor you I guess you don't get to phuking look at them then do you...
I massively appreciate the craftwork on display here and the attention to the minute detail.
$200k on a bloomin' ring though? Who are these mad ostentatious people?
Definitely ,it’s mind boggling.At the end of the day it’s only a bit of carbon.
Will probably resale for $100k at best, diamond rings are such a rip off. The second you buy a ring ask the dealer what he will buy it back for and you will be lucky if its half.
Right?! Wtf man, thats property money, not jewelry money
@@TheDjcarter1966 As a former jeweler, yes. Watches too, pennies on the dollar.
@IndieLass15 yeah. Gold is honestly rare and will become even rarer- diamonds, not so much at all. Sources say that maybe by 2035-2070 gold may cease in mineable quantities
WOW. It's something how the untrained eye doesn't see things. I thought the original looked really nice. Then after you made the new mount I thought DAAAAAAAAAAAMN, what a difference. Great work.
What a difference. Why someone would not spend the time like Bobby does on such a large diamond. Beyond me. I’m sure the customer is thrilled now.
i think the prices on bobby whites jewellery is HUGE thats why people try go somewhere else
Its like trying to save money on a gunsmith. you just end up going to the more expensive guy in the end anyways.
Awesome content, would love to see more "fixing other shitty jeweler's work, this is why it sucks, etc" videos.
I second that! 👍
👏🏻
I purchased my wife a 1.4K diamond and not knowing anything about settings the diamond fell out. The first time she found the diamond. The jeweller that fixed it said nothing about the shitty setting. The diamond fell out again a week later after having it “fixed”. Luckily a girl at work at our coffee shop seen the stone in a sugar bowl. We took it to a young lady jeweller that said its the worst job she had ever seen. She sold us another setting but actually rebuilt the claws so it would not fall out. It was a great job. It’s been years and it has not came out, my wife does take it back every year to have it checked.
Those stones were absolutely gorgeous. I am so thankful they sent it to you to fix. My cousin was a jeweler for over 40 years (he passed 2 years ago at the age of 89.) Watching you use such craftsmanship in your work makes me so happy and proud that the true trade is being carried on.
You did a lovely job. Thank goodness my engagement ring, wedding ring and eternity were beautifully made, works of art. Been worn so far 24/7 for 51 years and have been tittified after 30 years by the same jeweller for the price of the extra gold it needed as the rings wore a bit thin and he did not like that. And here we are 51 years later and still gorgeous.
I worked at a place that would cast 3D engagement rings (one piece) and quit because of this exact problem. There is no way to really clean them up. As always love the content you guys put together.🤘🏻
Thank you!
What's so bad with one piece casting
@@Johnne009 you cant really get a polishing bit in all the nooks and crannies, the issue is when they try and sell it as "handmade". Its dishonest
@@Johnne009 If you have a 200k Ferrari would you get a 2k pant job or a 20k paint job from someone who takes pride in there craft. Both paint jobs work but one will do more justice for the value of the car.
@@gwensilver8382 it's possible. Those people are called master polishers and they command top dollar. ruclips.net/video/to-as81fYDc/видео.html. and what point is it considered handmade, it always has been hotly contested in the jewellery industry. I.e. Oh he used a buffing machine to polish, is it now handmade?
This just highlights the problem with giving an unknown Jeweler a chance to make a huge name for themselves when they just want to make jewelry wholesale by casting and selling. The Jeweler that makes the ring for the stones, is the jeweler that will have top quality work and it will make each stone shine regardless of its shape and cut. Top notch Work Bobby! Jewelers like you are what establish the word "Artisan" as the premium benchmark for your industry, You Are an Artist!
like every video, the editor is working as hard as the jewellers at Bobby White doing the edit of the clip. Big compliments for both ❤
I can't tell you how many of these I've seen, sized and repaired. People blow the entire wad on the stone and have nothing left for the mount. It's mental. More than that, it's frustrating to see people who don't know any better getting cheated by dishonest jewellers, of which there is no shortage.
Nobody ever thinks about the value of the band only the stone. And obviously the more expensive the stone the more you love the person you’re asking. Hahaha
We don't repair machine set, mass produced rings. Especially the halo style that became popular recently. Its so sad to see stones falling out of new engagement rings.
My stone was ~ 30K and the ban was a under 3K…a small fraction compared to the stone value. If the extra 2K breaks he bank, go for a marginally lesser stone!
@@theknitwit7098 You would think people would do that, but no, they almost never do.
When I got an engagement ring, well, first off it was weird because my wife (then to-be) and I only knew each other for 6 weeks before we decided to get married (1996) so we went ring-looking together. I was so focused on the stone, as you say, but they showed me nothing really good. The clasps all seemed to darken the stone. In the end my wife-to-be settled for one. Then a month later on the morning I was going to formally propose to her, I woke up and God said to me, you've got the wrong ring! I'm not joking. And an image of the right ring popped big into my imagation like we saw the ring here. I was like, "Where the heck am I going to find that?? How will it be the right size??" and God just chuckled and said, You'll find it. I had 1.5 hours before I was due to meet her. I was in Cape Town, and got dressed in a hurry and popped off to Cavendish Square to the one shop I could think of. 1 hour to go. Described the ring to the guy. Single giant solitaire. Pretty round from above. He goes to a drawer and pulls out a ring. "Like this?" he asks and holds it up to my eye. I kid you not, the image at that process moment was IDENTICAL to the image in my imagination from earlier. "It is - but I don't know if it will fit!" He promised to adjust it if needed. Off I went, got there with 5 minutes to spare. The moment came, I pulled out the ring, she put it on, and it fit like a glove. And she's not average size, either. I gave the old one back to the other shop (in another town) I don't know why I told you this story. At first I thought it was about my focus on the stone. I guess, I could have been had so easily.
My engagement ring is a similar style (although with much smaller diamonds). The original mount was also garbage and a jeweler had to to complete remake mine in the days before my wedding. The difference was stunning! I’m thankful there are still people like you out there who hand craft jewelry and pay attention to details!
I've never subscribed so fast in my life! Loved seeing all the details from beginning to end. So awesome!
You're here??
Holding the gem within the caliper while drawing the lines was a neat little trick. Im fascinated how good the result looks even though you worked very rough in my opinion. You must be extremely efficient this way. In switzerland at the places I worked, I think we would calculate much more and we would even polish the insides of the settings. Also, just for the understanding, and as some people have already mentioned, a one-piece cast isn't necessarily a bad thing, as it can also include unique 3d drawn models which have been customized for the individual stones. And pretty much all places can be polished if you know how to do it. A good one-piece cast even means no soldered parts, which may result to the jewelry piece to maintain more stability
yeah i think this guy is a "Pfuscher"
@@froschreiniger2639 does that mean fraud?
Yep. Big manufacturers do that on large scale too. Seamless, perfect. Or how about luxury cars? Most of those got large single-piece cast panels. Often, even the wheels are cast. Yet they look seemless, perfect no matter how you look at it.
Such a beautiful ring, such a shame originally looked like it came from one of those £1 claw prize every time machines. You nailed it!
I always wanted one of those glass rings as a child. Bought myself one in a $ store, not to wear but to console myself after taking of my diamond solitaire for the last time when my husband dumped me for a girl half my age who was pregnant already. That glass ring brightened my day because I got it from my forever friend - myself.
If I ever had a wife and I was rich, I will absolutory love to get a ring customed by you, I think it will have more value when my significant other can see the work has been put into it and why is it special. Man I wish I had your skills !! god bless you and I hope you can do it for other people who are struggling for a reasonable price it will mean so much to them.
You don't have to wish my friend. Anyone can pick up a skill using their hands, you just have to be willing to put in the time. You'd be amazed how quickly you can reach a competent level in just about anything. Skilled maybe not but competent. Try as many new things as possible, something will stick. After you've done it for 10-20 years or more you'll have some skills :)
Hold up a minute.......Bobby, you are a talented jeweler, and im a fan of your work from one jeweler to another. The original ring, as you said was a disaster, no question. The jeweler who made it should be ashamed and embarrassed for letting something like that out the door. HOWEVER, be careful you don't label castings as the boogieman. You and I both have items cast, for various reasons. As with everything there are pros and cons. The advantages to casting are clean even lines and geometry without the need for numerous solder joints. The advantages to handmade are the display of skill on the part of the jeweler and the creation of a true one off design. The disadvantages of one piece castings and handmade for that matter is TIME. If the jeweler doesn't take his time in creating the CAD or layout with precise measurements the project will be a mess. If the caster doesn't use plumb or a an acceptable ratio of plumb the castings can be porous. With handmade, the need for numerous solder joints requires numerous heatings and especially with platinum, it can be easy to overheat the solder and create porosity. No one is immune from this phenomena. Someone mentioned the ability to clean the castings, yes this can be a challenge but if the jeweler takes the time with proper tools, casting can clean up just fine. That said, even handmade items cannot be cleaned up perfectly. Solder joints can go unsmoothed as well as LASER joints. So, at the end of the day, whether you choose CAD/CAM or handmade, the MOST important thing for a customer to do is choose the right JEWELER. Bobby is certainly one of those jewelers regardless of how an item is made.Its takes YEARS of hardworking and training to become a competent jeweler. Customers need to do their homework and find a jeweler who is well respected if they want quality work.
Well said!!!
I think the issue isn’t the ring being cast. It’s that it’s cast and seems to be sold as a bespoke piece.
I agree so much! Different techniques for different purposes. It takes skill no matter what, to make it great.
The issue is that a shoddily cast ring is not appropriate for these stones or at this price point.
What do you mean by plumb? I do a bit of lost wax casting at home and porosity is always an issue, I'm looking for ways to fix it 😬
You truly are an AMAZING artist!!!!!!
This is a clear video that best describes the phrase "You get what you paid for." Excellent job Bobby as always.
The customer payed $200k for the original and got crap. I think this is the _opposite_ of "You get what you pay for"
The precision in this work is mind blowing.
Cheap casting for such high quality stone. Definitely a huge upgrade with the precision hand made ring.
Might be worse actually, he is rough soldering w/ platinum as opposed to TIG welding the connection joints
The ring you designed and made is fantastic, extremely graceful. The craftmanship is over the top. Best I have ever seen.
I love watching you, you are so intense when working and you create truly beautiful pieces. I know that I’ve finally made it in life when I can get one of your creations.
Bobby the builder saved the day...again!!! Beautiful job mate!! Greetings from Houston, Texas 🇺🇸
Despite diamonds being the biggest scam, this was a great video to watch
The quality of these mini films is just as incredible as the craftsmanship. Such a pleasure to watch
Wish you added more side-by-side shots of the before and after, that is amazing work
Lovely! A deceptively simple (not!) but elegant setting showcasing the stones!!
I’m a huge fan of your work, and the difference in quality between the two is simply incalculable. Whoever is getting that ring is a lucky, lucky person!
That is a stunningly beautiful ring. Those stones are breathtakingly gorgeous too.
Great job Bobby! Always pleasure to watch! Glad you touched up on casting subject. It’s a shame that retail stores give untidy casting job away to their customers with an excuse that it’s handmade. No matter the process, quality should always be top priority. Well done 🤝
RUclips made me watch this. They kept putting it in my recommendations for days. In the end, I'm glad I watched it. I always enjoy watching the work of master craftsmen.
I had my engagement ring made in Japan by a jeweller who was specialized in making traditional pieces for Geisha, such as Maiko's Pocchiri and he made an insane ring, it is a pure work of art.
This is the gentleman who made my ring. I thought you might enjoy it.
What?
cool story that made no sense
who was it?
SO TALENTED, I would have absolutely LOVED to see the customer's reaction!!!
Amazing craftsmanship! Always a pleasure watching you create such amazing pieces
The Bobby White masterful touch , absolutely stunning 😍 ✨️
nice job really did the stones justice!
Blown away at how excellently produced this is. First time.
Jewelry maker extraordinaire! 💎 💍 🤍
Hello 👋 how are you doing?
Not my style, but the craftsmanship is simply gorgeous. Excellent work.
I've been watching you for a couple years now and your videos have gotten me into jewlery. I started in Q.C. and plating at a local jewlery repair shop about 5 years ago and have persistently pushed to be a jewler. I was promoted after many times of being put off last October. I've since bought my own bench, tools and computer for CAD and am currently teaching myself through open source software. Only thing is my boss says I'm stupid for investing in all this stuff and says it's not worth it. When he gets me down I watch the video you did about how you started and it's isn't so bad for a bit. Juat wanted to say thanks for introducing me to a career I love even though the boss is kinda shitty I still love what I do
You are following your creative passions you’ll end up doing well. Stick with it and good luck. Keep us posted.
Well if you can work for a boss you can work for yourself too man. Its hard to start on your own ,but long run its worth it. Keep grinding keep working. The sun shines for everyone my friend.
It's a very difficult business that's always vulnerable to recession. When a recession hits and people tighten their belts, the first thing that goes are luxuries and the first common luxury that goes is jewellery. There's nothing easy about this career path. Even the simplest bench procedures can take years to master. I'm not saying don't do it, but be 100% aware of what you're getting yourself into.
What a treat! I’ve never seen a ring made before. Absolutely gorgeous work. I would have loved to see the clients reaction. 👍😊
God, you are so creative 👀❤️
Thank you! 😊
I have to say your ring is way better than the previous ring. Your design really brings out the stones. His bride will be happy!
I went to school for jewelry making & watch repair over 30 years ago , did so for 4 years . Got my CWM-20 & my CWM-21 as well as my CMWM-21 , straight out of school I studied in gemology & got my gemology certification so now I am a Certified watch maker of the 20th Century , a certified Watch maker of the 21st Century , a certified Master Watch Maker of the 21st , a Certified Jeweler, & a Certified Gemologist all in one . All this took up 5 & 1/2 years of my life & it was well worth it . If your going to do a job for someone , do it right the first time , your reputation could & will be on the line . Straight out of school I had the opportunity to work at a great company because I had the skill & schooling . Worked for them for 5 years & saved every penny I could . I found & refurbished 2 museum piece watches from the 1930s wile I was in school . I went to the American Watch Institute or (AWI) if you will to see if I could get the original paper work & maybe the original boxes they came in . When the curator of the museum & the President of AWI seen them they asked if I was willing to sell them to the museum , they made me a offer I couldn’t refuse & I put that money with the money I saved & after 10 years I started my own business in gemology , jewelry making & watch repair & precious metals . Now at 49 years of age I plan to retire when I hit 50 , my 26 year old daughter will be my successor & will be taking over the company full time next June . She has all of the certifications I do & knows the company inside & out . She has been working at the company since she was 13 years old under the table until she was 16 . I have over 206 employees all who are like the extended part of my family & watched the company grow & blossom to what it has become . I am grateful for all of them & all the hard work they do . Now is the time to step down & let the younger Generation step up to make the company go further into the future with guidance from myself & the older generation . I guess I was just one of the lucky ones that were blessed with the opportunity to start a successful business Despite the ups & downs in my company . It’s going to be really hard to step away but it’s best for business .
Imagine how frustrating it would be to watch this, paying for it to be hand made and finding out it wasn't, and having to pay a second time.
Bobby didn't charge them
@@truckstreestoys how do you know? why should he do the work for free? he isn‘t santa claus
@@savagesavage4444 just a guess. His average video like this makes $5-20k. And a client that spends $200k is worth the hook.
pretty sure someone dropping 200k on a stone for a ring for their wife has the money to buy 1000s of new mounts for it just imagine his house, boat, jet, and cars
Beautiful work. Those stones are to die for!!! Lucky person!
you've truly done justice to those stones. Love your work!!
The new piece is very elegant and very balanced. Lovely work.
Holy sh*t! I know absolutely nothing about jewelry and only happen to run into your video. This was a GREAT video! Super entertaining and the cinematography and editing were spot on. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Excellent. You changed these people's lives for the better!
Great work Bob
Wow. I was not expecting that cinematography. Beautifully shot
love how he cuts the scenes really fast that show the finished product up close, could already see it wasn't lined up properly
I’m a relatively inexperienced jeweler (4 years and 2,000 + engagement rings, all single piece castings) and my 2 cents are that there’s a right way and a wrong way to do anything. It’s amazing the difference in quality when the cad designer has the ability to design a setting to actually fit the stones exactly. And flimsy rings are an atrocity. Don’t be scared of computer designed rings, just be skeptical of the designer and the jeweler. Make sure your jeweler can match fancy cut stones by using a 3D scanner. Look at the prongs, imagine where something might snag, and know that if you can see it, it can be polished by a skilled jeweler.
Love your videos and your work!!!
My husband had my engagement ring made for me and it's a marquise cut diamond set into white gold and it's beautiful. it doesn't have that dark bow tie mark through the stone, so whoever cut the stone did an exquisite job.
The settings look elegant but sturdy and the points of the stone are protected too
5:09 When and how did you sharpen the points of the claws? Was that after the claws were bent down? I do see you doing that as well as sawing off the ends... but when do they get points? Do you remove the stone again before filing the points and them replace it afterwards, bending the claws back into position over the stone?
I think they bend then file. Remember it's really really difficult to scratch a diamond.
Bend then file/shape, using files with a purposely blunt/smoothed edge just to be on the safe side incase of any slips, then polish and it will have the same result Bobby shows
Great video. No BS. Straight to the point with no chatter.
I’ve never seen a ring made before. Fascinating, you’re a fine artist/ jeweler. A lot of work went into that beautiful, secure setting. I love what you did there, so much better, stunning.
Wow... What great craftsmanship. That was a nice ring! Congratulations to the lovely couple
I couldn’t even tell what was wrong with it before until you did the closeups and showed the new one, it looks so much more seamless and sophisticated. It’s unacceptable how rough it looked until you changed it.
Just a little suggestion. It will be easier for the viewers to see the differences if you can put three view pictures in the viedo to compare before and after. Love you works. Thank you
Its like: “they dont see it, we dont do it.”
I'm just in awe of the fine detail work you do. I'm sure the owner of that ring was thrilled to get it back like this.
jesus christ, i've only been taking jewellery classes here and there for under a year, and even i can see how shitty the original ring is. the claws were uneven as hell too! the final result is absolutely stunning! there's nothing quite like a fully handmade piece
Get out while you still can friend.
@@OTOss8 idk, I personally love being a bench jeweller. Yeah it was definitely hard going at the start and not what I expected but my sense of pride in how far I've come has been amazing and I wouldn't have done anything differently.
@@cdawg9218 Maybe things are different where you live but over here, the business itself is what I take issue with. The skill itself? The trade? It's great. I love it too. It's why I spent so long doing it, but the business side of things is more screwed up than any other industry I've ever crossed paths with.
OK that was slick…holding the stone and scoring at the same time. I haven’t seen a jeweler do that before but I’ll be trying it out. Awesome work all around!
I don't understand why in all cases a ring that's been soldered is necessarily better than a regular cast ring. Lost wax has been around forever, and you can customize everything in wax quite easily, without having to worry about weak solder joints.
I think it has something to do with the grain of the metal having much more strength when it is extruded and formed in parts, making the metal much less brittle and long lasting?
@@mearkat1313 Nope -- that's not the reason -- forging is great for steel, but for softer metals it makes no difference. Casting a piece creates a uniform single entity, without weaker soldering joints. For instance, I've soldered gold before, and it's only as strong as the solder joint -- solder has to melt at a lower temperature than the metal it's bonding together, which means it will also melt before the rest of metal.
I should also reference this by saying I don't believe that forming a ring from parts is better than casting. Cast metal rings have lasted hundreds of years. No need to worry that you'll outlive your cast ring. By the way, the artisan in this video is NOT forging the ring, such as you would a steel weapon or tool. Besides, you're not going to put great stresses on a ring as compared to the rim of a wheel. I know you're trying to compare forged versus cast aluminum wheels. That only applies to tools and things that need to have that kind of wear like aluminum. The noble metals do not have those exact properties. In fact, quenching Iron quickly makes it more brittle, whereas quenching gold makes it more flexible.
Gorgeous stones. The princess and baquette cut are my favourites for gemstones. You reworked this ring perfectly!
Good job you guys have done.
But you're heading is misleading instead it should say, lazy Jeweler sets gorgeous/fabulous diamonds on a crappy setting!!!
I always welcome the new clips from Bobby White. This was a great 6-minute journey around the jeweller's bench. I get very queasy when I watch the initial squeeze of the claws. There is a lot riding on that process.
The stone was incredible - no windows, (indicating an ideal cut). I must confess that the loose diamond made my salivary glands kick in.
I would bet a lot that this is just one of those "you get what you pay for" situations.
Someone with a basic shop, and then someone with all of the best tools out there.
You did a great job though, clearly no comparison. That being said... it was still handmade in theory to begin with ;)
Actually the tools to cast cost more than the tools to handmade. The time is the biggest difference.
I’m always impressed by a good jeweler. The skills to make such small objects in metal are always impressive.
Life can truly be odd. You got people out there who get married with plain steel wedding rings, not even costing $100, and then you got other people spending 200k on just the engagement ring alone.
Bobby always has that magical touch when it comes to a bit of TOM!!! 👌
Anyone spending $200k on an engagement ring is trying way too hard.
Beautiful result! The ring shines way more with the stones closer to one another!
the first mistake was spending $200K on a shiny rock that serves no earthly purpose once it's sequestered to a ring
Judging others for spending on jewelry.
@@mariatheresavonhabsburg yup, sure am. i tend to get opinionated about stupid and wasteful acts
@@JFergel
How presumptuous and disrespectful.
How people manage their money is a private, personal matter
@@mariatheresavonhabsburg it stops being private and personal once it hits youtube. thanks for your opinion, it's wrong, but it's your right to be as materially-oriented as you wish, i guess
@@mariatheresavonhabsburg your fake account lets me know exactly how serious and adult you are too, by the way sweet cheeks
man i cant get over the skill you have. every video i find myself in awe of your work. the funniest thing i had been looking for something to keep my cutting oil in like your little dish. then i realised yours is most likely gold lol. i might try to make a bronze one for myself.
It’s sad that someone feels they need to spend this much to profess their “love” for someone.
Wow what a difference. Love the new ring, stunning
The owners first mistake was being ok with spending $200k on a woman lol
Just found out his wife is a virgin, so she might be worth it
@Invalid Characters definitely. Diamonds for the homies
I was thinking the same thing
It's nothing for some people 🤷🏼♂️
@@quentin6583 never let a woman know $200k is nothing for you. Unless you want your life ruined.
Stunning!
I'd love to find a jeweller who could turn a titanium plate a had in my shoulder into a piece of jewellery...
Hello 👋dear, how are you doing?
Spending money on engagement rings (nothing against jewellery in general) is so fucking stupid and shows everything wrong with this society so I like to believe that guy was taking revenge in the name of humanity. Or something.
Incredible bench skills!
The difference between some mass produced setting and a custom mount is night and day. In the original the mounting took away from the stones and in the properly done remount - the beauty of the stones is fully appreciated.
I’m a jeweler for over 40 years and I think you are an absolute artist
Wow! when you look at the before and after pictures you can see the main stone isn't even centred properly and the overall work is shocking. The finished article is just majestic, beautiful.
I've been in diamonds and jewelry for over 20 years now. This was such a gratifying video to watch!!!
Exceptionally kind of your client to allow you to video and broadcast such an important ring.
It now looks simply stunning. Good job!
i been gone for a while but i’m back now. nice to see the channels getting love again.
What a wonderful elegant final touch!
❤️❤️❤️
You are a superb teacher. Thanks for showing what to look for.
My mom just lost a diamond in her 30 year old wedding ring. It took 30 years for it to fall out. There are 5 others in the ring, and those are still there. The craftsmanship involved in making something that lasts with daily abuse for 30 years is astounding.
Bobby saved the day and those Diamonds. He certainly is not a sloppy jeweler, like that other guy was. What sets him apart is that he does take his craft and artistry seriously. He certainly has an eye for detail. That's where the beauty is. Such an extremely talented jeweler. 👏 way to go Mr. Bobby White, Master Jeweler extraordinaire :)
W@@W!!!! Master craftsman! Amazing and beautiful ring across the board. A new appreciation for rings of the 4 C's. You brought out the glory in stone by the quality of the ring.
The whole sings high quality and eye candy to all who see it. Congrats!