Nice video but i do miss something... You use 2 gauges/meters to measure the vacuum but what i miss is the balancing of the 2 meters with each other. Use a piece of Y connector and connect the meters to the Y connector and then with 1 tube from the Y connector to 1 throttlebody. Start the engine and set both meters equal (as they both have the same amount of vacuum). Now you know that both meters measure the same amount of vacuum on their scale. Disconnect them and do the rest as you did. It is important to know for sure that both meters measure the same amount on their scale. I tested this once with a Carbtune Pro. Looks nice but hey.... i synct the tb's until the rods were at the same level. And then i thought: what happens when i switch the two rubber hoses..? Shit, the rods were immediately different on the scale. Switched the hoses back and the rods were equal again. Carbtune.... never used it again.
I used a GS-911 to sync mine. After the sync my bike wont idle. Just reset the adaptation values and idle was fixed. After the throttle sync at 2500rpm, I sync the idling perfect with the right side throttle body idle screw. My bike idle so smooth now.
Thanks for the very simple explaination. It literally took me longer to find and watch this video than it took me to adjust and synchronise my throttle valves. Awesome!
Thanks, I had adjusted the balance perfectly just as you demonstrated, then my GS-911 completed the sync and it would not idle. After re-watching your video, I decided your balancing method was correct and the GS-911 corrupted the setting. I reset the engine controller BMSKP2 to the original values and then performed the ignition on/off with 3 full twists of the throttle, when restarted - perfect idle. Out on the road the performance was nothing short of amazing.
Great, thanks. I came to this topic not because of any idle problems or engine running problems, but quite stronger vibrations when riding than it used to be. So I was suspecting some unbalanced "whatever" between cylinders/stroking. I have checked the synchronization according your video and it was quite unequal. After right sync the vibrations are much weaker! Great.
I agree with you on balancing the throttle bodies. I've been using vacuum gages for years to balance multiple carburettors. So I don't see the need to use a GS911 to electronically open up the idle solenoids to balance the throttle bodies. It's all about taking your time to synchronise the 2 throttle bodies. Very easy procedure compared to multiple carburettors. Nice job, and well made informative video's for amateur mechanics with basic knowledge and tool's.
Greetings from Ireland! Thanks for all the great videos. I just bought a 2016 R Nine T and this information is excellent. I love the unrushed style of your videos and your level of knowledge. Please keep up the great work.
Kijk dat is nou iets waar ik wat aan heb. Uitgelegd in steenkolenengels maar wat maakt het uit. Super bedankt. Voor mij geen dure GS911. Mijn ouwe trouwe carbtune werkt nog prima. Ga zo door beste vent
Dear Old Mechanic, Last year I performed a throttle body sync on my R1200R using the GS911. At the end of the procedure, the idle speed was very unstable, the bike was undriveable. I contacted the GS911 helpdesk and was advised to reset the adaptation values and have a firmware update done on the engine's ECU. After resetting the adaptation values, the idle speed was stable again, but I had to relearn the gears using the GS911 so that the ECU knows which gear is engaged. In the meantime I have had a firmware update of the ECU of the engine, done by a BMW dealer. Actually not a good thing because now and then I can no longer read the outside temperature on the dashboard. Next week I´ll service my bike again but I think I´m going to use your method for the throttle body sync. Thanks for your good instruction videos, I became almost addicted. By the way, where did you buy that handy LED lamp with the flexible neck and the magnetic foot? Beste groeten vanuit Antwerpen.
Hi Erik, what you got was my fear and that was why didn't used the GS911.. These days I use the MotoScan app, its so much better AND cheeper too. Allthough I am still not dare to use it for a throttlebody sync.. Actualy my GS runs fine 😉. Look at my playlist about the motoscan app, I am sure you love it too ! That light i got from Aliexpress 😂 Greets 👍🏻👊🏻🏍
Is it -0.3 you're looking for? The before shot shows RHS -0.4 with LHS - 0.3 does altering the screw only change the RHS so it reads same as LHS? Thanks otherwise a great video. What are you using to measure some mercury vacuum gauge or something? Regards Mark Aberdeen
Hello Old mechanic, Thanks to share your knowledge. I've recently bought the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 adapter and also installed the MotoScan app.Lite to test it. It works fine with my bike (R1200R-2011). I'm in doubt whether to purchase the profesional or the ultimate version. When I do an engine sync with the GS911 to lock the actuaters, the bike idles poorly and even becomes unridable. After a "reset adaptations values" with the GS911 the bike idles stable again. After that reset you have to relearn the gears again. The helpdesk of the GS911 advised me to do a firmware update of the bike at the dealers wich I did. But it didn't solve the problem, the problem persists, on the contrary, now sometimes the outside temperature is not displayed on the instrument cluster. So when I do an engine sync I do it The Old Mechancis way. I don't know if the MotoScan app has a function to lock the idle actuaters.
Beste Old Mechanic, dat op en neer gaan van het stationaire toerental na procedure met GS911 is te herstellen door de adaptie waarden te wissen. Maar dat er een bug in zit is juist.
Thanks for your videos and greetings from Denmark. About this procedure I was told, by BMW guy that the sync can be done by turning the ignition on, twisting the throttle to full tree times, then turn the ignition of and the thottle sensors should now be aligned. This is on my R1200gsa 2009. But I am gonna try your way anyway. Now just waiting for the snow to go away. 🙂
I had the same issue when I used Motoscan to recalibrate the idle actuators on a 2015 r nine t!! Don’t recalibrate just balance the throttle Bodies… The fix is too disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect it, start the bike but DO NOT touch the throttle after a couple of minutes the bike rests the actuators and the tick over is back to normal😅!
Good day Old Mechanic,can i use the vacuum line where you put the hose for the carb synchronizer and put seafoam combustion chamber cleaner to clean the throttle bodies and valves?im not a mechanic ,just a guy trying to do his own maintenance!thank you..
How did you know to do the right one and not the left I could not read the dials on your clocks was there a mark that you new your bike should be at ??? Yet another good vid with very very wise words thankyou !
Newbie question, hi old mechanic great video by the way. How the two gauges are performing independently when only one tube is attach to the motorcycle? Thank you monsieur old mechanic!
@@TheOldMechanic I do have 20+ years of experience riding motorcycle… without having any knowledge on the mechanic side. I bought a GSA 1200 last year and I found your videos in the winter in inspired me so much now I would like to start doing my old maintenance. Thanks again for all your great videos!!
Is your idle speed stable? Are your higher revs also stable? In my case, the needle constantly moves slightly both at idle and at high revs. Is it normal? I have new spark plugs, ignition coils, O2 sensors, TPS and fuel pump controller. Overall the bike rides very well. The only thing that worries me is the unstable RPMs.
I work on and sync these bikes virtually on a daily basis, always using the GS911 to lock the idle actuators. The rough idle and "surging" is quite common on the 2010 and later models. However, this is easily resolved by resetting the adaptations once the sync is done. There is no need to "take the bike to a dealer to undo the damage". FWIW, the idle actuators are only in play when the engine is at idle, i.e. throttle is completely closed. When you are syncing the throttle bodies at 2000rpm, the idle actuators and their position are no longer relevant.
I bought 2 new OTC vacuum gauges, when I hook them up to a full op temp engine (2010 R1200GS) the gauges are bouncing like ceazy at Idle. I have to get the rpm’s between 3-4K rpm for the bouncing to subside somewhat. The bike has 9,500 miles on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I bought 2 new OTC vacuum gauges, when I hook them up to a full op temp engine (2010 R1200GS) the gauges are bouncing like ceazy at Idle. I have to get the rpm’s between 3-4K rpm for the bouncing to subside somewhat. The bike has 9,500 miles on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@cindy_lewis, you will notice at the 2 minute mark in this video, The Old Mechanic adjusts the valves on the tubes leading to the gauges. Your gauges should have similar valves. Just close them a little at a time to stabilise the needles.
Hi there Old Mechanic! Thanks for your detailed videos, it helps a lot. I have a 2013 R1200GSA (last version before they switched to LC model). I tried the throttle sync with vacuum gages I purchased from Aliexpress but when I connect them they rattle like crazy, not even possible to see the needles. What am I doing wrong, or the cheap vacuum gages are not good for this task? Thanks for the help and keep up the good work.
BMW opposed twin motorcycles make maintenance a breeze, My Yamaha 4cyl only oil change is simple job every thing else i leave for Dealer . As usual good vid OM.
Hi Joe, you are so right. Some bikes have their sparkplugs hide as if they never need to be changed, but mate its doable. I am now busy on my daughter in law her 'new' BMW F800GT and just to get all the Tupperware off you need to get 44 (!) out..😂 Greets from the old mechanic, drive save 🏍
Good day mate, quick question. Can I used an ordinary carb synchronizer? I'm not a mechanic but I'm starting to do my own maintenance work.. Your videos are easy to understand and direct to the point.. Awesome video..
What do you mean with idle surging between 1k and 2krpm? Mine does this sometimes, but under load at very slow speed in 1st! Idle and 2krpm are now set very good with a carbtune (for this ieven adjusted the 'forbidden' screw on the right tb and i have proper slack in the throttle cable) and hoped this would fix it, but it didnt. Do you maybe know what could be wrong? Groeten!
Forgive my ignorance. I'm just learning. From my reading around, the manual TB sync and the GS911 process are intended to achieve the same thing, but I don't understand what they do. I think the manual process you describe is simply changing the throttle on one side so the air flow matches the one on the other side? What exactly does the GS911 process do? I'm not sure I understand what these stepper motors are in relation to this.
@Sophie Collins, the GS911 process locks the idle actuators. The software on these motorcycles attempts to keep the idle stable and smooth, using readings from the lambda sensors on the exhaust to control the fueling and by opening/closing the idle valves (actuators). Sometimes, due to mechanical wear etc, it is no longer possible for the software alone to manage this. That is where the TB sync process as per this video comes in. This video, however, only covers the 2000rpm sync, and not the sync at idle. If you were to attempt the sync at idle without the GS911 locking the idle valves, you would be fighting the software changes which would be attempting to do the balancing at the same time. The GS911 locks the idle valves so that the mechanical adjustment can be made without being overridden by the software. Once the mechanical adjustments have been completed, the GS911 process then releases the actuators again. However, since there have now been mechanical changes made that the software is unaware of, the software is still assuming readings are correct based on the old mechanical settings, thus the lumpy and rough idle. All that needs to be done is for the adaptations (the readings the software uses as a baseline) to be reset to default. When the ignition is cycled, the software will take new baseline readings and once again be able to control the idle. Hope this all makes sense.
@@GuysGarage120 Thanks for your super detailed reply - Since watching this, I discovered that this process doesn't apply to my bike because it's one of the newer LC 1200s. So I'm a bit lost where to go from here.
@@sophiecollins, No, you're not lost at all. You have more time to ride your bike! You are correct, this video and the procedure outlined therein doesn't apply to your bike. The LC models are all "Drive by wire", so the throttle bodies are entirely controlled by the software from the DME/ZFE. There is therefore no need (and also no means) to do any adjustments on them. Everything is done automatically.
Hi Can I ask you a question? I have a whining noise coming from the engine at around 2k revs or when I'm gearing down (engine breaking) I changed the Alternator belt and checked the Alternator seems OK I'm thinking could it be the cam chain tensioner? Any ideas would be appreciated Thanks Great vids 👍
my 07 r1200r has that whining noise as well, as did an older GS I owned - I had posted avid of the noise and every one said -- normal. They say the 1200's have updated cam tensioner --
It seems that your bike has the 'wrong' software.. and when you do a trottlebody sync with the GS911 that went wrong. You have to go to a bmw dealer to update your bikes software. Atleast thats what I know.
![BMW R1200GS [2010] VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK.. The Old Mechanic his own R1200GS 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8TKhsY_wLM8/mqdefault.jpg)
![BMW R1200GS [2010] VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK.. The Old Mechanic his own R1200GS 👨🔧---🏍](/img/tr.png)
![BMW R1200GS [2010] AIR-FILTER CHANGE.. IS IT EASY ? The Old Mechanic his own R1200GS 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pey9kwevKw4/mqdefault.jpg)
![BMW R1200GS [2010] FRONT BRAKE CALIPER CLEANING..EASY..? The Old Mechanic his own R1200GS 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VYqOu1mvf48/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video but i do miss something... You use 2 gauges/meters to measure the vacuum but what i miss is the balancing of the 2 meters with each other. Use a piece of Y connector and connect the meters to the Y connector and then with 1 tube from the Y connector to 1 throttlebody. Start the engine and set both meters equal (as they both have the same amount of vacuum). Now you know that both meters measure the same amount of vacuum on their scale. Disconnect them and do the rest as you did. It is important to know for sure that both meters measure the same amount on their scale. I tested this once with a Carbtune Pro. Looks nice but hey.... i synct the tb's until the rods were at the same level. And then i thought: what happens when i switch the two rubber hoses..? Shit, the rods were immediately different on the scale. Switched the hoses back and the rods were equal again. Carbtune.... never used it again.
I used a GS-911 to sync mine. After the sync my bike wont idle. Just reset the adaptation values and idle was fixed. After the throttle sync at 2500rpm, I sync the idling perfect with the right side throttle body idle screw. My bike idle so smooth now.
Thanks for the very simple explaination. It literally took me longer to find and watch this video than it took me to adjust and synchronise my throttle valves. Awesome!
Thanks, I had adjusted the balance perfectly just as you demonstrated, then my GS-911 completed the sync and it would not idle. After re-watching your video, I decided your balancing method was correct and the GS-911 corrupted the setting. I reset the engine controller BMSKP2 to the original values and then performed the ignition on/off with 3 full twists of the throttle, when restarted - perfect idle. Out on the road the performance was nothing short of amazing.
Nice work!
Great, thanks. I came to this topic not because of any idle problems or engine running problems, but quite stronger vibrations when riding than it used to be. So I was suspecting some unbalanced "whatever" between cylinders/stroking. I have checked the synchronization according your video and it was quite unequal. After right sync the vibrations are much weaker! Great.
Excellent! 👍🏻👊🏻😉
I agree with you on balancing the throttle bodies. I've been using vacuum gages for years to balance multiple carburettors. So I don't see the need to use a GS911 to electronically open up the idle solenoids to balance the throttle bodies. It's all about taking your time to synchronise the 2 throttle bodies. Very easy procedure compared to multiple carburettors. Nice job, and well made informative video's for amateur mechanics with basic knowledge and tool's.
Thanks mate 👍🤛🏍
Greetings from Ireland! Thanks for all the great videos. I just bought a 2016 R Nine T and this information is excellent. I love the unrushed style of your videos and your level of knowledge. Please keep up the great work.
Thanks David, happ ynewyear
I also did the sync without the motoscan with very good results.
you are so very helpful om gonna call you the young mechanic!
Thank you 👍🏻👊🏻😉
sincronize I do it like you but using another device, the twinmax.
and for the idle motors actuators I did it with the motoscan with perfect result.
Kijk dat is nou iets waar ik wat aan heb. Uitgelegd in steenkolenengels maar wat maakt het uit. Super bedankt. Voor mij geen dure GS911. Mijn ouwe trouwe carbtune werkt nog prima. Ga zo door beste vent
Thanks Arno 👍🏻👊🏻
Dear Old Mechanic,
Last year I performed a throttle body sync on my R1200R using the GS911. At the end of the procedure, the idle speed was very unstable, the bike was undriveable. I contacted the GS911 helpdesk and was advised to reset the adaptation values and have a firmware update done on the engine's ECU. After resetting the adaptation values, the idle speed was stable again, but I had to relearn the gears using the GS911 so that the ECU knows which gear is engaged. In the meantime I have had a firmware update of the ECU of the engine, done by a BMW dealer. Actually not a good thing because now and then I can no longer read the outside temperature on the dashboard. Next week I´ll service my bike again but I think I´m going to use your method for the throttle body sync. Thanks for your good instruction videos, I became almost addicted. By the way, where did you buy that handy LED lamp with the flexible neck and the magnetic foot?
Beste groeten vanuit Antwerpen.
Hi Erik, what you got was my fear and that was why didn't used the GS911..
These days I use the MotoScan app, its so much better AND cheeper too. Allthough I am still not dare to use it for a throttlebody sync.. Actualy my GS runs fine 😉. Look at my playlist about the motoscan app, I am sure you love it too !
That light i got from Aliexpress 😂
Greets 👍🏻👊🏻🏍
The playlist is : BMW MotoScan TIPS, TRICKS & SECRETS
Share it with your motorcycle friends 😉👍🏻
@@TheOldMechanic I'll certainly do. 👌👌
Hi Old Mecanic! I did how you theached and was perfect!!! Thank you.
Great 😃👍🏻
Certainly appreciate your advice
Is it -0.3 you're looking for? The before shot shows RHS -0.4 with LHS - 0.3 does altering the screw only change the RHS so it reads same as LHS? Thanks otherwise a great video. What are you using to measure some mercury vacuum gauge or something? Regards Mark Aberdeen
Hello Old mechanic,
Thanks to share your knowledge. I've recently bought the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 adapter and also installed the MotoScan app.Lite to test it. It works fine with my bike (R1200R-2011). I'm in doubt whether to purchase the profesional or the ultimate version. When I do an engine sync with the GS911 to lock the actuaters, the bike idles poorly and even becomes unridable. After a "reset adaptations values" with the GS911 the bike idles stable again. After that reset you have to relearn the gears again. The helpdesk of the GS911 advised me to do a firmware update of the bike at the dealers wich I did. But it didn't solve the problem, the problem persists, on the contrary, now sometimes the outside temperature is not displayed on the instrument cluster. So when I do an engine sync I do it The Old Mechancis way. I don't know if the MotoScan app has a function to lock the idle actuaters.
Thanks to you I will not use the ODB2 + Motoscan tool and perform only a pure mechanical synchro !
Beste Old Mechanic, dat op en neer gaan van het stationaire toerental na procedure met GS911 is te herstellen door de adaptie waarden te wissen. Maar dat er een bug in zit is juist.
👍 oke dankjewel voor deze tip 🏍
Dat kun je ook in de GS911 software doen?
Thanks for your videos and greetings from Denmark.
About this procedure I was told, by BMW guy that the sync can be done by turning the ignition on, twisting the throttle to full tree times, then turn the ignition of and the thottle sensors should now be aligned. This is on my R1200gsa 2009.
But I am gonna try your way anyway. Now just waiting for the snow to go away. 🙂
I had the same issue when I used Motoscan to recalibrate the idle actuators on a 2015 r nine t!! Don’t recalibrate just balance the throttle
Bodies… The fix is too disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect it, start the bike but DO NOT touch the throttle after a couple of minutes the bike rests the actuators and the tick over is back to normal😅!
Great info, thanks 👍🏻👊🏻
Salve old mechanic, una domanda! Può dirmi dove a recuperato il vacuometro? Un link o altro grazie!
Good day Old Mechanic,can i use the vacuum line where you put the hose for the carb synchronizer and put seafoam combustion chamber cleaner to clean the throttle bodies and valves?im not a mechanic ,just a guy trying to do his own maintenance!thank you..
How did you know to do the right one and not the left I could not read the dials on your clocks was there a mark that you new your bike should be at ??? Yet another good vid with very very wise words thankyou !
Newbie question, hi old mechanic great video by the way. How the two gauges are performing independently when only one tube is attach to the motorcycle? Thank you monsieur old mechanic!
Each one of the 2 cilinders has his own vacuüm meter 😉
@@TheOldMechanic I do have 20+ years of experience riding motorcycle… without having any knowledge on the mechanic side. I bought a GSA 1200 last year and I found your videos in the winter in inspired me so much now I would like to start doing my old maintenance. Thanks again for all your great videos!!
Did you feel a difference In power or throttle response after doing this?
Great video and advises. Thanks a lot
Thanks Carlos
Is your idle speed stable?
Are your higher revs also stable?
In my case, the needle constantly moves slightly both at idle and at high revs. Is it normal?
I have new spark plugs, ignition coils, O2 sensors, TPS and fuel pump controller. Overall the bike rides very well. The only thing that worries me is the unstable RPMs.
Bit of a side note, but looks like you have a throttle lock which is NOT a Kaoko. I am looking for a different option, and wonder what yours is?
Hoi hoi, zou je mij aan het volgende kunnen helpen? bmw r1200gsa valve clearance adjustment chart
I work on and sync these bikes virtually on a daily basis, always using the GS911 to lock the idle actuators. The rough idle and "surging" is quite common on the 2010 and later models. However, this is easily resolved by resetting the adaptations once the sync is done. There is no need to "take the bike to a dealer to undo the damage".
FWIW, the idle actuators are only in play when the engine is at idle, i.e. throttle is completely closed. When you are syncing the throttle bodies at 2000rpm, the idle actuators and their position are no longer relevant.
I bought 2 new OTC vacuum gauges, when I hook them up to a full op temp engine (2010 R1200GS) the gauges are bouncing like ceazy at Idle. I have to get the rpm’s between 3-4K rpm for the bouncing to subside somewhat. The bike has 9,500 miles on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I bought 2 new OTC vacuum gauges, when I hook them up to a full op temp engine (2010 R1200GS) the gauges are bouncing like ceazy at Idle. I have to get the rpm’s between 3-4K rpm for the bouncing to subside somewhat. The bike has 9,500 miles on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@cindy_lewis, you will notice at the 2 minute mark in this video, The Old Mechanic adjusts the valves on the tubes leading to the gauges. Your gauges should have similar valves. Just close them a little at a time to stabilise the needles.
Hi, I'm about to buy a 2003 BMWR 1150 RT, the vonan gear is broken, is it possible to find a part? is it difficult to repair?
Hey
Thanks for good information
How long you run engine on idle? Not risk for overheating?
Greats from
Micke from Sweden
Thank you for your video. But do you see a riding difference after this sync?
Actualy not realy 😉
Danke für deine Arbeit
Hi there Old Mechanic! Thanks for your detailed videos, it helps a lot. I have a 2013 R1200GSA (last version before they switched to LC model). I tried the throttle sync with vacuum gages I purchased from Aliexpress but when I connect them they rattle like crazy, not even possible to see the needles. What am I doing wrong, or the cheap vacuum gages are not good for this task? Thanks for the help and keep up the good work.
Sqeeze the hoses until the needle goes slow 😉
@@TheOldMechanic Thanks for the reply. I’ll get some valves to be installed on the lines.
That will do the job, in my video you can see that I have them too. 😉👍🏻👊🏻
BMW opposed twin motorcycles make maintenance a breeze, My Yamaha 4cyl only oil change is simple job every thing else i leave for Dealer . As usual good vid OM.
Hi Joe, you are so right. Some bikes have their sparkplugs hide as if they never need to be changed, but mate its doable. I am now busy on my daughter in law her 'new' BMW F800GT and just to get all the Tupperware off you need to get 44 (!) out..😂 Greets from the old mechanic, drive save 🏍
Good day mate, quick question. Can I used an ordinary carb synchronizer? I'm not a mechanic but I'm starting to do my own maintenance work.. Your videos are easy to understand and direct to the point.. Awesome video..
@@ragnarrock8747 Hi Virdi Yes you can any carburator sychronizer will do the job.
Greets from: The Old Mechanic
What do you mean with idle surging between 1k and 2krpm? Mine does this sometimes, but under load at very slow speed in 1st! Idle and 2krpm are now set very good with a carbtune (for this ieven adjusted the 'forbidden' screw on the right tb and i have proper slack in the throttle cable) and hoped this would fix it, but it didnt. Do you maybe know what could be wrong? Groeten!
Duidelijke video! Hoe bepaal je eigenlijk de referentie-cilinder? Met andere woorden; pas je links aan op rechts of net andersom?
Hoi Hans, misschien mn video nog een keer kijken.. (helemaal..)😂
@@TheOldMechanic Altijd Rechts 😂
Forgive my ignorance. I'm just learning. From my reading around, the manual TB sync and the GS911 process are intended to achieve the same thing, but I don't understand what they do.
I think the manual process you describe is simply changing the throttle on one side so the air flow matches the one on the other side? What exactly does the GS911 process do? I'm not sure I understand what these stepper motors are in relation to this.
@Sophie Collins, the GS911 process locks the idle actuators. The software on these motorcycles attempts to keep the idle stable and smooth, using readings from the lambda sensors on the exhaust to control the fueling and by opening/closing the idle valves (actuators). Sometimes, due to mechanical wear etc, it is no longer possible for the software alone to manage this. That is where the TB sync process as per this video comes in. This video, however, only covers the 2000rpm sync, and not the sync at idle. If you were to attempt the sync at idle without the GS911 locking the idle valves, you would be fighting the software changes which would be attempting to do the balancing at the same time. The GS911 locks the idle valves so that the mechanical adjustment can be made without being overridden by the software. Once the mechanical adjustments have been completed, the GS911 process then releases the actuators again.
However, since there have now been mechanical changes made that the software is unaware of, the software is still assuming readings are correct based on the old mechanical settings, thus the lumpy and rough idle. All that needs to be done is for the adaptations (the readings the software uses as a baseline) to be reset to default. When the ignition is cycled, the software will take new baseline readings and once again be able to control the idle.
Hope this all makes sense.
@@GuysGarage120 Thanks for your super detailed reply - Since watching this, I discovered that this process doesn't apply to my bike because it's one of the newer LC 1200s. So I'm a bit lost where to go from here.
@@sophiecollins, No, you're not lost at all. You have more time to ride your bike! You are correct, this video and the procedure outlined therein doesn't apply to your bike. The LC models are all "Drive by wire", so the throttle bodies are entirely controlled by the software from the DME/ZFE. There is therefore no need (and also no means) to do any adjustments on them. Everything is done automatically.
@@GuysGarage120 hmm... So how do I stop the wobbly idle then?
So you only plug into right side???
anyone recommend where too buy those gauges?
請問 R NINER 一樣是0.29BAR嗎?
Smart💯👍
Hi
Can I ask you a question?
I have a whining noise coming from the engine at around 2k revs or when I'm gearing down (engine breaking)
I changed the Alternator belt and checked the Alternator seems OK
I'm thinking could it be the cam chain tensioner?
Any ideas would be appreciated
Thanks
Great vids 👍
my 07 r1200r has that whining noise as well, as did an older GS I owned - I had posted avid of the noise and every one said -- normal. They say the 1200's have updated cam tensioner --
Could you help me. I did since with gs 911 and now idle is jumping form 1000-2500 how k can fix that I tried everything
It seems that your bike has the 'wrong' software.. and when you do a trottlebody sync with the GS911 that went wrong. You have to go to a bmw dealer to update your bikes software. Atleast thats what I know.
Just reset the adaptations. The software just needs to get new baseline readings. No need to update any software.
No school like old school
👊🏻👍🏻😉
Be careful with cheap interfaces.
Even if they connect to the ECU and read DTCs, they may not work when coding or setting the date/time.
Never used anything