Heads up to anyone following this video to fix their own pressure washer. The check valves are not always the problem when your washer isn't letting water through, for me all the check valves would not come out but were still working fine! It was actually a blockage on the low pressure side, down the metal tube. Unscrewed that, removed the blockage, and the washer was working perfectly again.
I realize I am a year late watching this but better late than never. Well put together, documented and explained video. BIG THANKS! Mine doing the same. Have a great Navy Day!
This got me thinking about how to repair my Subaru pressure washer, although I only needed to replace the O-rings and lube up the check-valves, make sure every component could rotate, back-and-forth on everything. And voila! everything works. Maybe if you were more gentle, and used more lube, you wouldn't have needed those replacement parts. Who knows, but knowledge was created here, so thanks.
Nice... finally someone showing and explaining possible problems and process when having those issues...this might be my problem with my power washer.thank very much
Nice job describing the valve removal and replacement. Most of the time, these valves will not pull out freely, destroying the white plastic valve cap.
Yep, same boat, I also pick up stuff I know I can fix. I suspect mine is pump damage also. The engine fired up nice and the guy warned me to not run it without water (so I think he did that and damaged the pump - that's what the warnings say). Thanks for describing the brittling of o-rings, I've not disassembled yet, but it was stored for a while so I suspect that was it, just like a car that should have it's ac cycled for maintenance. Also, I guess this is why there is a spray to insert prior to storing? It'd be nice if you added how to properly store after you got it running. I also look at those pressure valves. Good job.
i got an 80 dollar pressure washer, electric. Not the most powerful, not the biggest machine. When first soaking the area or the car and then using this washer, it works fine. Has been giving me some pleasure for like 5 years now. To be honest, if it breaks down, i buy myself a new one for 80 bucks. I can not for the life of me think of a reason why i should bother using any kind of liquid sjit to try and save the internal parts. Especially not with the electric ones, because all of em originate from China. The more expensive ones may have a bit better quality parts but still, they aint gonna last for ever. It is a miracle if they last longer than the warranty period, since most of what we can buy these days is made to last just a bit longer than the warranty period.
Shut the gas off when you are finished using it. Allow it to run until it sputters and kills on its own! No more gas left in lines and carburetor, stops it from gooing up while not in use!
agree for any gas engine, but a pressure washer with water pressure on, and trigger off will burn out the plastic pump components. These gas engine pressure washers cannot run with out water moving. Planned death for certain. And the metal is so weak and corrosive, guaranteed more sales.
Great work! Before doing this, did you discard other parts failing like the hose or nozzle? How is this procedure done in order to discard that first. Thanks!
I have bought 3 pressures washers over three years. Suspect for any washer is the aluminum/zinc die cast housing used, which is subject to corrosion and a frozen pump. I got one season out of the first two washers. Go to use it the next year and "ZERO". Lock up. Looking at the inlets there was corrosion all over the casting. Comes the third pressure washer. On the first two I used the flush and store system liquid through the pump and put it away for winter. That didn't work. Third washer, put hydraulic tool oil (4-5 table spoons) into the water inlet and ran the pump for about 10 seconds. It flushed out water and left an oil film in the pump. I have had this last pressure washer 3 years now and it starts up every year after winter. And the pressure is still strong. Frankly, I think these manufactures should be coating the die cast housings with corrosion resistant coating. I am a product engineer of 45 years, and designed automotive parts with corrosion resistant coatings to withstand freezing rain, heat, and road salts. I can tell you I never went back to the manufactures washers that only lasted one season. My current washer is a Sun Joe and it is holding up.....with the oil purge included.
Went to use my power washer yesterday (Craftsman different model) and a stream of water was shooting straight up from unloader valve or soap siphon port(?) I assume it's a check valve issue as well. Pump worked but with less than normal total pressure. Where exactly did you find the pump schematic and parts to order?? Thanks for posting
I was sooooooo frustrated that my fairly new washer lost all pressure as I was about to start my home cleaning project. But after watching this….. I am freaking stoked to rebuild my pump!!!!! Equally as frustrated I’ve given away 2 in the past for failed pumps…..
Liked n subscribed mahalo for sharing just bought my first pressure washer from Costco today Husqvarna 3200psi aloha n will be checking out your channel in the future 🤙🌴
i did mine in 2020 and just did it again and they came out fine with needle nose the valves separate fairly easy its a 4 piece valve snap apart and back together and i pushed them in fine with needle nose not sure why yours was so tough my washer is 14yrs old......the engine had seized up so i did the mystery oil trick in the spark plug hole and move it in reverse and it un seized
If you get no pressure and it sprays a stream of water without the pump engaging, check the filter first. It is located on the water intake. Mine was 1/2 inch deep plugged with calcium.
Some Commercial Pumps use to have a Recirc. Valve that would allow Pump to always have water flowing through it to keep pump from Cavitating which causes pump to get too hot thus often destroying pump. When you Stop Spraying for just a moment, you need to turn off/stop motor--often your paper work-directions will tell the owner this...
Using a paint can opener works well removing the check valves, but you have to grind the sides off a bit. the Check valves are not very sturdy and will fail quickly if water is not keeping them cool.
What Would you think would be the next problem if water is leaking out of the head I replace the seals and the check valves and Water is still leaking out but I do have some more pressure than before
I had the same issue as you with my AR pump. Took the 3 check valves out on the side (high pressure side) and all three were blown apart into pieces. I ordered new check valves and replaced them after cleaning out all the plastic pieces that broke off and were stuck in the passages. Got it all put back together today and tested it out, but no water would come out at all. Ordered MFG part number and the parts went back together just fine but I can't figure out why the pump wouldn't work. I took it back apart again and the 3 valves on the side were twisted and broken again but no water was coming out. Any thoughts on what is causing the check valve rapid disassembly and blocking water from coming out at all?
On my way home from work yesterday I found this same exact pressure washer on the side of the road in the bushes so I took it home and hooked it up and discovered it need a pump
@@homebuiltshop he said it ran for a few minuits, turns out even with the instructions he was to stupid to turn the gas on, apparently full choke had it start. also he had the wrong nozzle for soap. low pressure. looks like the gas swole up a check ball and it keeps blowing the soap dispenser hose off. taking it in to get it repaired at his cost
I would Try to Saturate the Whole Mechanism with WD 40 and let it set for awhile--I have a lot of Lime in my City Water Supply so Soaking everything in Lime-Away might help...
If it stalls when you release the trigger on the wand, then the unloaded (overpressure valve) is hung up and not recirculating water back to the inlet of the pump. That part is the large brass valve with the hex nut and center stud next to the valve caps on the side.
These pumps are total garbage. Homeowner special = shit!. Buy yourself a professional unit. I have a newer toro and its never worked right. I'm on my 2nd pump because the original one never worked. It would have pressure for a second or two then it would be just a weak stream so i replaced the pump and I'm having the same problem. Plenty of h2o pressure from the house and I've tried different hoses still no pressure. POS.
Then watch in 2x speed. His target audience is probably people that have limited experience. If you can't figure it out after he said replace check vavle then you probably need the whole video.
I have bought 3 pressures washers over three years. Suspect for any washer is the aluminum/zinc die cast housing used, which is subject to corrosion and a frozen pump. I got one season out of the first two washers. Go to use it the next year and "ZERO". Lock up. Looking at the inlets there was corrosion all over the casting. Comes the third pressure washer. On the first two I used the flush and store system liquid through the pump and put it away for winter. That didn't work. Third washer, put hydraulic tool oil (4-5 table spoons) into the water inlet and ran the pump for about 10 seconds. It flushed out water and left an oil film in the pump. I have had this last pressure washer 3 years now and it starts up every year after winter. And the pressure is still strong. Frankly, I think these manufactures should be coating the die cast housings with corrosion resistant coating. I am a product engineer of 45 years, and designed automotive parts with corrosion resistant coatings to withstand freezing rain, heat, and road salts. I can tell you I never went back to the manufactures washers that only lasted one season. My current washer is a Sun Joe and it is holding up.....with the oil purge included.
I'm here because I have a Greenworks 2700 with a metal housing and the inlet is plugged up. No water will pass into the unit. When you put your ear to it after attempting to run water into it, you hear odd sounds inside, like pressure is slowly releasing.
Heads up to anyone following this video to fix their own pressure washer. The check valves are not always the problem when your washer isn't letting water through, for me all the check valves would not come out but were still working fine! It was actually a blockage on the low pressure side, down the metal tube. Unscrewed that, removed the blockage, and the washer was working perfectly again.
I realize I am a year late watching this but better late than never. Well put together, documented and explained video. BIG THANKS! Mine doing the same. Have a great Navy Day!
This got me thinking about how to repair my Subaru pressure washer, although I only needed to replace the O-rings and lube up the check-valves, make sure every component could rotate, back-and-forth on everything. And voila! everything works. Maybe if you were more gentle, and used more lube, you wouldn't have needed those replacement parts. Who knows, but knowledge was created here, so thanks.
Nice... finally someone showing and explaining possible problems and process when having those issues...this might be my problem with my power washer.thank very much
Nice job describing the valve removal and replacement. Most of the time, these valves will not pull out freely, destroying the white plastic valve cap.
Yep, same boat, I also pick up stuff I know I can fix. I suspect mine is pump damage also. The engine fired up nice and the guy warned me to not run it without water (so I think he did that and damaged the pump - that's what the warnings say). Thanks for describing the brittling of o-rings, I've not disassembled yet, but it was stored for a while so I suspect that was it, just like a car that should have it's ac cycled for maintenance. Also, I guess this is why there is a spray to insert prior to storing? It'd be nice if you added how to properly store after you got it running. I also look at those pressure valves. Good job.
Easy fix, but have fun finding the repair parts
Why??? model number.then the world wide web.look for part.
Cool video. I run Briggs & Stratton Pump Saver after each use or before storing my pressure washer to extend the life of those internal parts.
I may have to get some of that stuff. I have some for my airless paint sprayer, I wonder if its the same stuff.
i got an 80 dollar pressure washer, electric. Not the most powerful, not the biggest machine.
When first soaking the area or the car and then using this washer, it works fine.
Has been giving me some pleasure for like 5 years now.
To be honest, if it breaks down, i buy myself a new one for 80 bucks.
I can not for the life of me think of a reason why i should bother using any kind of liquid sjit to try and save the internal parts.
Especially not with the electric ones, because all of em originate from China.
The more expensive ones may have a bit better quality parts but still, they aint gonna last for ever. It is a miracle if they last longer than the warranty period, since most of what we can buy these days is made to last just a bit longer than the warranty period.
Shut the gas off when you are finished using it. Allow it to run until it sputters and kills on its own! No more gas left in lines and carburetor, stops it from gooing up while not in use!
agree for any gas engine, but a pressure washer with water pressure on, and trigger off will burn out the plastic pump components. These gas engine pressure washers cannot run with out water moving. Planned death for certain. And the metal is so weak and corrosive, guaranteed more sales.
@jviews1 so run the water through the wand until the engine runs out of fuel and shut off.
@@ChrisRJ are you slow? she meant shut the gas off and presssure washer and hold the wand to get all the water out
@lil_icyyy Obviously, you are slow. I wasn't even replying to her comment. Do the rest of us a favor and try to think once in a while.
@lil_icyyy and as far as her comment, that's not what she meant either. Once again, educate yourself.
Great work! Before doing this, did you discard other parts failing like the hose or nozzle? How is this procedure done in order to discard that first. Thanks!
I have bought 3 pressures washers over three years. Suspect for any washer is the aluminum/zinc die cast housing used, which is subject to corrosion and a frozen pump. I got one season out of the first two washers. Go to use it the next year and "ZERO". Lock up. Looking at the inlets there was corrosion all over the casting. Comes the third pressure washer. On the first two I used the flush and store system liquid through the pump and put it away for winter. That didn't work. Third washer, put hydraulic tool oil (4-5 table spoons) into the water inlet and ran the pump for about 10 seconds. It flushed out water and left an oil film in the pump. I have had this last pressure washer 3 years now and it starts up every year after winter. And the pressure is still strong. Frankly, I think these manufactures should be coating the die cast housings with corrosion resistant coating. I am a product engineer of 45 years, and designed automotive parts with corrosion resistant coatings to withstand freezing rain, heat, and road salts. I can tell you I never went back to the manufactures washers that only lasted one season. My current washer is a Sun Joe and it is holding up.....with the oil purge included.
Thanks for this tips, I thought antifreeze a few tablespoon this winter will be good but your method makes a lot of sense
I have the same model pressure washer as you just repaired. Do you have a link to the replacement parts?
Went to use my power washer yesterday (Craftsman different model) and a stream of water was shooting straight up from unloader valve or soap siphon port(?) I assume it's a check valve issue as well. Pump worked but with less than normal total pressure. Where exactly did you find the pump schematic and parts to order??
Thanks for posting
I always put pump oil in the pump when not using it for awhile during the winter, never had a problem, I have the same pressure washer
If your pump is like the one I did on YT, a 5/16-18 bolt will thread down into those check valves. Just pull them out 🙂
Great job using silicone grease.👍
Nice work ….. I have inspired me to try this fix for my Ryobi 3100!
Awesome, I hope you get it working again.
Where do you get the parts from?
I was sooooooo frustrated that my fairly new washer lost all pressure as I was about to start my home cleaning project.
But after watching this….. I am freaking stoked to rebuild my pump!!!!! Equally as frustrated I’ve given away 2 in the past for failed pumps…..
Could you have sprayed or soaked that part in something that would have loosened up those seized parts?
Nicely done!
Awesome video! Saved me a lot of money!
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
Liked n subscribed mahalo for sharing just bought my first pressure washer from Costco today Husqvarna 3200psi aloha n will be checking out your channel in the future 🤙🌴
Welcome aboard!
I have Karcher k2. Same issue pump running but no pressure 😊
i did mine in 2020 and just did it again and they came out fine with needle nose the valves separate fairly easy its a 4 piece valve snap apart and back together and i pushed them in fine with needle nose not sure why yours was so tough my washer is 14yrs old......the engine had seized up so i did the mystery oil trick in the spark plug hole and move it in reverse and it un seized
I have no idea why they were so stuck. I just used it this morning after sitting all winter and it worked great.
If you get no pressure and it sprays a stream of water without the pump engaging, check the filter first. It is located on the water intake. Mine was 1/2 inch deep plugged with calcium.
Some Commercial Pumps use to have a Recirc. Valve that would allow Pump to always have water flowing through it to keep pump from Cavitating which causes pump to get too hot thus often destroying pump. When you Stop Spraying for just a moment, you need to turn off/stop motor--often your paper work-directions will tell the owner this...
This video just earned you a sub! Thanks bro.
Using a paint can opener works well removing the check valves, but you have to grind the sides off a bit. the Check valves are not very sturdy and will fail quickly if water is not keeping them cool.
Nice fix!!😊
Are the check valves these for all pumps
What Would you think would be the next problem if water is leaking out of the head I replace the seals and the check valves and Water is still leaking out but I do have some more pressure than before
The check valves maybe stuck from dried soap. If you’re going to have to extract them, I would suggest letting the manifold soak in water over night.
Thats interesting. I didn't even know that could happen. Thanks for the tip.
I normally don't use any chemicals with my PW but when I do, I make sure I flush out the pump a few minutes before I shut it down.
Great video 👍
I had the same issue as you with my AR pump. Took the 3 check valves out on the side (high pressure side) and all three were blown apart into pieces. I ordered new check valves and replaced them after cleaning out all the plastic pieces that broke off and were stuck in the passages. Got it all put back together today and tested it out, but no water would come out at all. Ordered MFG part number and the parts went back together just fine but I can't figure out why the pump wouldn't work. I took it back apart again and the 3 valves on the side were twisted and broken again but no water was coming out. Any thoughts on what is causing the check valve rapid disassembly and blocking water from coming out at all?
Did u make sure the water was on?? Silly question I know but trust me lol
I use a self tapping 1/4" bolt, ease it in till it grabs and take 2 screwdrivers pry under the bolt head and out she comes.
Butane gas cools and shrinks the valves and blow the valves out with air
what are the part number of the valves?
Thanks, my problem as well. Same pump.
I have the same pump but I can not find the right chake valves for it
What are the inner o-rings made of? The ones in my pressure washer keep blowing out, and I don't know what to replace them with.
rubber?
@@bertjesklotepinoviton
GREAT VIDEO!!! Thanks a ton....Cheers
Thanks god bless
Where did you get the check valves and parts from?
e-bay?
When you get the part numbers just type em through your search engine.
On my way home from work yesterday I found this same exact pressure washer on the side of the road in the bushes so I took it home and hooked it up and discovered it need a pump
Can you post the parts that you used?
Guess what I’ll be doing this weekend?
Thanks
i loaned mine to my neighbor who couldnt get it to run, he filled the soap container with gasoline, is it ruined?
I wouldn't think so. I'd just try to clean it out as best you can. I'd think it would be ok.
@@homebuiltshop he said it ran for a few minuits, turns out even with the instructions he was to stupid to turn the gas on, apparently full choke had it start. also he had the wrong nozzle for soap. low pressure. looks like the gas swole up a check ball and it keeps blowing the soap dispenser hose off. taking it in to get it repaired at his cost
I would Try to Saturate the Whole Mechanism with WD 40 and let it set for awhile--I have a lot of Lime in my City Water Supply so Soaking everything in Lime-Away might help...
Mine stalls out as soon as i turn the water on. Ideas????
If it stalls when you release the trigger on the wand, then the unloaded (overpressure valve) is hung up and not recirculating water back to the inlet of the pump. That part is the large brass valve with the hex nut and center stud next to the valve caps on the side.
Mines have a little water coming out of three screw valves.
You have the pressure valve parts number
These pumps are total garbage. Homeowner special = shit!. Buy yourself a professional unit. I have a newer toro and its never worked right. I'm on my 2nd pump because the original one never worked. It would have pressure for a second or two then it would be just a weak stream so i replaced the pump and I'm having the same problem. Plenty of h2o pressure from the house and I've tried different hoses still no pressure. POS.
so slow in explaining. Lot's of talking, little information shared for a long video.
Then watch in 2x speed. His target audience is probably people that have limited experience. If you can't figure it out after he said replace check vavle then you probably need the whole video.
I have bought 3 pressures washers over three years. Suspect for any washer is the aluminum/zinc die cast housing used, which is subject to corrosion and a frozen pump. I got one season out of the first two washers. Go to use it the next year and "ZERO". Lock up. Looking at the inlets there was corrosion all over the casting. Comes the third pressure washer. On the first two I used the flush and store system liquid through the pump and put it away for winter. That didn't work. Third washer, put hydraulic tool oil (4-5 table spoons) into the water inlet and ran the pump for about 10 seconds. It flushed out water and left an oil film in the pump. I have had this last pressure washer 3 years now and it starts up every year after winter. And the pressure is still strong. Frankly, I think these manufactures should be coating the die cast housings with corrosion resistant coating. I am a product engineer of 45 years, and designed automotive parts with corrosion resistant coatings to withstand freezing rain, heat, and road salts. I can tell you I never went back to the manufactures washers that only lasted one season. My current washer is a Sun Joe and it is holding up.....with the oil purge included.
I'm here because I have a Greenworks 2700 with a metal housing and the inlet is plugged up. No water will pass into the unit. When you put your ear to it after attempting to run water into it, you hear odd sounds inside, like pressure is slowly releasing.
Where did you get the parts?