I Tested The NEW Evolv Shaman Pros [Honest Review]
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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Today, @BeorOng will be diving into an intensive review of the Shaman line by Evolv and seeing whether the shoes can live up to the legacy of the beloved oracles and agros.
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Hands down the best climbing shoe reviewer! Honestly, if I would get a new shoe, this is the guy to go to! Keep it up King
The pros new laces are like a combo of the solutions one piece tounge and the phantoms laces. I love it!
Just takes too much damage for my liking, if the shoe breaks anywhere except the rubber outsole first its a no for me... I DO like the slightly softer version of the pros, but I wish I could get them in lace or strap instead
Great review!
Appreciate it =]
You used the word clunky and i totally agree- the old model phantoms are like that, I had a pair and I thought they performed poorly on small holds. My heel would kind of slip out which sucks but it also just may be the shape of my foot. Madrock and Unparallel the best imo
Im same; heel is wiggly in the new shaman lv (and all shoes) even drago lv!!
want a review of UP sirius lv and flagship lv.
I couldnt think of how to describe it for the longest time but once I said clunky randomly to someone I realized thats exactly how it feels. Unparallel the flagships are definitely too big for me and the madrocks (atleast the drones) feel very very low. We definitely just have diff foot shapes haha
I been using shamens since they replaced the predators. I gotta say they keep downgrading on the strap systems, trying to be new and different. The original rosta shamen was a tank! My favorite crack climbing shoe thus far. The newest old model of shamens swapped out the strap system with these d ring like buckles that rotate and fuck up the fit and even the strap. The new dyneema lookin straps are the worst thing to hit the climbing seen They barely held through one climb, an 8 pitch hand crack! I do like that the new tounge fits all the way across, but I miss those plushy uppers/tounge. As for the heels, if you've been using evolves for the ages it's noticeably different. Probably the one true upgrade to the shoe
You basically hit all the same pros and cons as me dude, I agree with everything you just said. I hate the cross strap system and the plush tongue feels fantastic
Please do a souped up review! I really want to try UP shoes!
Interesting choice, definitely on my to buy list but make sure to sub here and my channel as well cause who knows where itll get posted haha
So.. Evolv Solutions...
I've got a couple of pairs of the the older blue and orange ones which fit perfectly. I was wondering how the sizing is with the new low volume and high volume
I sized mine the same as my old models which I think is about right, the pros feel somewhat tighter for some reason, I think I watched a video of the designers saying how because its softer they made it specifically tighter with the intention of it just moulding easier... I could be mistaken though but yeah I would just match the sizing
@@BeorOng amazing, cheers that's really helpful
How different does the heel actually feel? The old Blue and Orange version is by far the best fitting climbing shoe I've used in the toebox, but my heel slips all the time.
its very similar if anything I find there's slightly (I mean super slightly) more room compared to the normal ones. If the front is fine, I'd recommend La Sportiva theory's (harder rubber for hard cranking heels on small chips) or the five ten hiangle pros (for more like collapsing high smearing heels - just means more leg power)
The evolve solutions
This pretty much sums it up... and not in a good way...except for the trax rubber... that Im totally down for
What's your favourite shoes? I have wide feet too
You praised the Phantom for being a good bouldering shoe(as well as an indoor bouldering shoe, if I remember correctly) but your reasoning for the shaman pro not being a good indoor bouldering shoe is it’s stiffness. I’m pretty sure that the phantoms are stiffer. Can you please elaborate between the phantom and shaman and what makes the phantom a better indoor bouldering shoe despite being stiffer.
so less about the stiffness of the rubber and midsole, but more about the stiffness of the actual shoe itself as a whole, so for me the phantoms feel like they move much better overall, I've never really had an issue with using them other than the strap thing, the shamans on the other hand feel like this is the shape of the shoe, and it wont change and mold, so it feels like wearing a solid block on your foot -- again good for outdoor for me bad for indoor. Does that make sense? I can try and elaborate more if you have questions
@@BeorOng okay I think I understand your reasoning. The shaman (the shoe itself is stiffer, if I’m wrong please elaborate!) I would like to know which shoe is more sensitive to you! And which is more precise!
hey beor! can you compare the shaman pros with the phantom in terms of stiffness and perfomance? whats similar or different?
How is the height/depth of the heel cup, as conpared to the phantom? I love my phantoms ...until it comes to heel hooking, then they're terrible. Is this heel taller than the phanton? And/or does the rand come up a little higher?
Where's the outdoor footage from?
The bouldering is at the bleachers in the Grampians, not sure about the sport climbing.
Grampians is correct, there is a mix of -- bleachers, trackside, the sport climbing parts are at upper and lower tribute, west flank, sentinel
i used to wear shamans but after switching to insticts i can never go back
Know a lot who love them but unfortunately the Instincts (like all Scarpa's really) have very wide heels - even brutally downsizing I have too much space. Evolv are one of the few brands that fit wide toes/narrow heels.
The instincts are on my to review list since a lot of people mentioned how theyre the ultimate all rounder so deffs will be reviewing those
@@snake_plant I think that la sportiva and 5.10 funnily enough are the only ones that really cater for that market of wide tow box and narrow heels... the best fitting shoes for me have been the theorys, hiangles, skwamas in that order... hi angles a bit iffy on the toe box but skwamas were a bit too wide
@@BeorOng the LS Theorys, Skwamas, and Pythons are on my to-try list for that reason! I do have the UP Flagships but I find them too narrow in the toebox and ever so slightly wide in the heel (but still one of the better heels I've tried) - need to try their others. Read really good things about Buturo Acro Wides (orange) for this predicament but you cannot even get them imported into the UK right now.
@@snake_plant I found the same issues with the flagships, they're an amazing quality shoe, and I should try the LV to see if they're any better, but yeah they're a bit narrow on the toe box and the heel is massive for me. The butoras for me are a great choice, they're my top pick for a budget friendly top end shoe, the no shoe lining makes it kinda rough and rubby though so be prepared for that... its fine once it wears down but it gets annoying not gonna lie. If you want something stiffer, the gomis are also not a bad choice for wide toe box. They fit my quite well... but holy crap is it hard to get those things on until they break in. With sandwich bags they slip on perfectly for my size, without em was impossible
I'm torn between the skwama and this shoe...
I've been tempted by the velcro shamans after trying them at a demo. Did you get any pain at first under the big toe from the love bump? Seemed to press on the nerve a little for me but not sure if it's just as im not used to it. Also do you like them for overhanged bouldering?
Under the toe not so much, at least not from memory, the love bump does wear down though so it becomes much less noticeable over time. For overhung bouldering the issue for me are climbs with toe hooks otherwise I think theyre still a great shoe as long as you dont have to do parkour type movements. So the issue I guess is more along the lines of is it for indoors or outdoors and what style of climbing youre going to be using for. For outdoor bouldering I use my old shamans for EVERYTHING. Would 100% buy over and over again specifically for outdoor anything
@@BeorOng thanks! Yes it's so difficult finding a good all-rounder with all the varied climbing styles. How did you find the zenists compare fit wise? I always worry shoes that soft are a bit "too" specific.
@@snake_plant sorry for not responding to this (i don't get notification for responses for some reason might have to look at my settings), I actually haven't tried the zenist, it looks pretty wide at the toe (which is a good thing for me) and Ive heard good things about it, but yeah currently not a big priority purchase for me but the zenist pro I'm eyeing atm
Haha, wow, I didn't expect to see my local climbing gym on this video. Shout out to Urban Climb Blackburn.
best rope gym around
I'm still rocking my OG orange shamans, love the design, replaced the Trax rubber, now it's a new beast
Im considering buying like 2 more pairs before they officially run out and while theyre so cheap lol
how's the heel holding up? Cause I have a pair of Evolv Supras and the rubber on the heel started peeling off after 10-12 sessions on rock. It's a great heel and maybe the best fitting heel for my feet so far. They have the same heel as the Shamans. I'm thinking about buying the Shamans but i'm afraid the heel won't be durable.
@@thiagof.6132 I havent had any issues with the heel at all, the most "damage" that I've seen is definitely top of the shoe with the closure systems (for all models), my straps the stitching has threaded a bit but hasn't been a massive issue yet, the pros the buckles are taking a bit of a beating with a few blind shot toe hooks and the tongue because its been stiched into the rand, annoyingly is ripping at the tie in point which is another L for the shoe, like I said in the video I think the laces actually hold up the best which actually surprises me lol. Other than that the usual rubber wear but nothing that I didn't expect
Great shoe but not very durable strap system, only 2 months old and one of the "D" rings has torn from the shoe. So now i cant tighten the laces on my left shoe since the ring ripped away from the shoe and evolv wont warranty the shoe despite only having them for such a short time.......just gonna stick to the phantoms.
same issue I had with la sportiva solutions - lasted me 2 months before I broke the strap due to aggressive toe hooking.
These or dragos?
Hey Beor, I know you're a fan of the Skwamas, how do these compare to them in terms of stiffness and how wide the toebox is?
I am looking for a replacement for my Skwamas and have very wide toes.
hey jaxom, sorry for the slow response, in terms of stiffness.... id say these are quite stiff at the toe box, and over time the skwamas softened by heaps, my shamans haven't really so much. Interms of wideness... I think the skwamas have just been the widest shoe I've ever used (actually has a bit of space for me but not in a bad way, its actually quite comfortable because of it), the shamans are definitely narrower, but in saying that, as someone WITH a wide toe box, comfortability wise it hasn't been a problem for me, other than the normal climbing shoe uncomfortablity of sizing it tight
Nice video, I have the shaman lace that looking very nice and well made,I love them, my son wearing for completion the pro model and love them 😂 depend for what you have to climb, for big volume he using the zenith most of the time
yeah thats what I expected as much, I think most people will opt for the zenist for comp type climbing...and they're coming up with the zenist pro as well
Great review man! Would you ever consider doing a review of the Scarpa Furia Air?
hey dude, I actually have a review on them already on my channel
I have the shaman 2s. They are my favourite shoes I have used.
shamans and theorys are my 2 shoes that I would buy over and over
wait beor is doing reviews here now
We trying it out =] building the madrock drone comp review as we speak but trying to break them in and just get my opinions on it
@@BeorOng Ah been curious about that one. Emil Abrahamsson climbs pretty hard in those.
I've got the baseline 3 strap shamans as of about a month and a half ago. Took some breaking in, but I really like the shoe. Feel much more confident in my toe placements on small footholds as I progress up in top rope difficulty. Much more noticeable in 5.11+/5.12-/5.12+ than the easier routes below those grades. Haven't done as much bouldering but I'd imagine it would be similar as the technical placements matter more.
I think theyre a great rope shoe for sure. I find that the lack of sensitivity while is a con is mitigated with the stickier rubber so it balances things out quite nicely. Honestly been a great shoe except for the more dynamic stuff
There is something on your left ear
How did you size them?
true to size (based on true size not street -- as in most people size to street which is incredibly inaccurate since you generally size a bit up for street shoe for comfort since you don't want to be walking around in..well bouldering fit shoes, so my true size is 6.5 and my street is 7, so I sized 6.5 for a tight fit. Will require breaking in but they break in quite fast so expect them to still be painful for the first few sessions
@@BeorOng Thats exactly what I did! I measure 9.5 on the brannock device, wear a 10 street shoe ( wide feet ), and got these in 9.5 for a tight fit.