In Betaflight 4.2 they changed the LOW MEDIUM HIGH setting for Dynamic Notch to a "max Hz" setting. This video tells you to set the Dynamic Notch Max to LOW. The equivalent setting in BF 4.2 is 350 Hz.
@@rudra9117 try soldering a new motor to the ESC that has the problem and see if the new motor behaves the same way - if the new motor works fine, it's the problem with the 'old' motor. if the new motor doesn't work fine, something is wrong with your ESC and the 'old' motor might be fine. It could be both - the ESC and the motor, but IMHO it's your ESC
It is my privilege to learn from and work with Chris. He (and the other maintainers--Mike, Bruce, jflyper, AJ, Joe) deserve some long over due recognition from the BetaFlight community for his tireless commitment to improve BetaFlight.
People will believe that is the best settings for your own quad, but not true, different kwad setups, different settings, your tutorial just a great start point for people understand. Thanks for sharing one more time your great work.
I'm a powersports tech. I've been watching you sir, steele and uav f. 2 months and I still haven't flown yet but I'm 80% done with my first build and thanks to mostly you. I should by tm have a nano that I still need to Sauder a reciever in and simulator. I feel like a kid b4 Christmas waiting everyday on the mail.. I just wanted to say thanks for the video. Like I said I'm a powersports tech and understand give and take very well. Most informative video I've found so far and I haven't even flown yet.
I'm glad that this gives you videos to make. I am also pretty exhausted by then needless complexity on top of needless complexity that has been added to the flight code over the last year, maybe 18 mo. The things like I term relax, feedforeward, d term setpoint, gyro notch filters, are all superfluous. The problem I have with all this comes from the lack of necessity. It just isn't a big enough improvement to validate the face slamming into concrete ordeal that is attempting to decipher the tool-tip language to learn these new settings, and what to do with them. If they were written by someone who has ever had a conversation with a human being this wouldn't be such a problem. The way things are being detailed now, you have to just move the settings around and hope for the best. That is a problem when the result can be the destruction of something so deeply personal, precious, and expensive. I am not willing to go through those "fire and flame" ordeals every 4-6 mo. I have to say, when a new feature comes out, and whoever made it obviously can't form a coherent sentence describing the purpose of their work, I assume it's probably not that evolved of a feature. The next few weeks are awash with RUclips videos where people TRY to make some kind of sense of the new feature, and make some intelligent attempt at utilizing it. Comments about horrific quad destruction are sprinkled throughout the community, in the wake of a nonsensical paragraph of unintelligible, real world example free, blather that suddenly appeared in the configuration, that we are FORCED to deal with. Most people just ignore it and hope for the best, not due to a lack of interest, or enthusiasm, or intelligence. Typically quite the opposite, most of us are full of "stoke". The problem is the tool-tips. Without any meaningful information about the new feature, we are at the mercy of people who have quads to burn, who shakily inch their way out the diving board and give it a try, with one eye closed, and a healthy, informed fear of the unknown they have been thrust into. If there were real world examples, as well as the labyrinthine, obtuse garbage that we get when we mouse over that tiny question mark we would be able to USE them. I am not even hoping to be able to utilize something well made, that brings me to a new level. I have lowered the bar to "God I hope this doesn't ruin my hardware". For all the effort that must go into writing this code, someone needs to be able to articulate the new features in a usable way. I volunteer. If you are reading this, and you are developing new features, and ppl have NO IDEA what you are talking about when you tell them what you are doing, and the implementation is consistently a problem: hit me up. I can, and will, listen to you, ask you meaningful questions for clarification. I will then translate that into a tool-tip that can be used by someone who is not in the room with either of us. Please. For the love of all things flying, please.
Kinda reminds me of the archaic Catholic creed that held priests were the only ones able to interpret the Bible. I love me some Priest Bardwell, but it would also be nice if BF included some lamen terminology with their software as you describe. ESPECIALLY for any who may be just getting into the hobby.
YES! This is the video I've been looking for! All the other BF filter videos have one thing in common - "tuning" already great quad. What can you teach using that? No example, no real improvement - the difference might be for the pilot, but not perceivable in video. Taking a problematic quad and showing real difference even in video - that's what I was looking for. Again, thanks for this.
Hi Joshua. That was some of the best flying I’ve seen you do and with as you say a “troubled quad”. Thanks for testing and sharing you do so well. I have successfully put 4.1 using JESC on my Diatone GTR349 and Tinyhawk Freestyle quads. 👍👌🙏
Very good explanation of the settings, I was able to get my GEPRC Rocket flying beautifully, ridiculously little prop wash without guards and said very tight rpm filtering. It's really hard to believe how well it handles wind. Thank you.
Oh cool!! Would you be so kind to share your filter settings and maybe D_min settings? I have been trying and while everything else feels fantastic on this little rocket I still have lots of prop wash!
About done. Best it's ever flown. Man this new t motor f55 pro 2 f3 mcu version does not like high PIDS! I'm in the 30 range on roll. Was getting ridiculous bounce back. It FF is hard to tune also. Anyhow I'm extremely grateful and could just give you a big old kiss. So happy after a couple days none stop of tuning Learned something today for sure! Much appreciated
Just did a 1 minute flip flop test and my goodness the first thing I noticed was the sound! My motors are rippier and crispier. Also motors are cooler than on 4.0.6 and smoother. Running Talon F7 8k/8k Dshot 600 on 6s with your exact settings. Thank you Bardwell! I'm gonna trade one of my $2 recurring Paypal Payments in for your Patreon sub cause you deserve it.
I love your videos. How in the world did you get out of that tree? I remember watching you a long time ago, when The flamewheel 450 was a big deal, And flight test just started up. David wendinstall was building tri copters...... and on and on and on. The yuneec q500+ was a all the rage. Your flying has progressed leaps and bounds, Good job Joshua! Thanks for all your hard work..... I learned something today..... And Subbed.
I have similar filter settings after testing for the last few months. Sliders all the way to the right (2X), RPM enabled and harmonics at 3, dynamic notch at q=200, w=0, LOW and min hz at 100. I used to disable D_Min but have had better results enabling it and raising the min to about 75% of what it would be without and setting the max about 15-20 higher than without. The other change I make from 4.0.x are raising P quite a bit.
I too noticed the high p gains. I am having a troublesome 6" (running rpm) and my P gains are at 52 and its getting better. Before this I was too nervous to take the filters up so high, but I think I may move that slider!!! :)
@@mbycfpv8937 Yeah I'm getting some weird behavior on my 6in with flips and rolls. RPM-filter at around 2x but the determ lowered. large and slow bouncback but the P and D's area already cranked up 1.3X. wasnt nearly this bad with 4.0 with RPM filter. let me know if you find settings that work for your 6in.
Amazing playlist about 4.1! Really appreciate as I’m quite new in this hobby and thanks to your videos I could upgrade to 4.1 and setup all important things we would never know without you Joshua:) I’m struggling with similar soft wobbling when flying in straight line or falling down after loop.. did you figured out how to get this fixed? You called this “bubbling” , “soft twitches” and almost said twice in this video what it can be but didn’t finished sentence hehe
Btw that UAV-Tech performance filter tune is a little outdated. I believe he said in a recent video that instead of using a single BiQuad you should use two PT1 filters set to values that add up to a similair latency. This will reduce the noise at lower frequencies more than the BiQuad.
I personally like to look at pid tool box to check my filters. And you can check to see how many harmonics you have. I have only ever had 1 in all my quads so far.
Is the idea to try reduce the filters as much as possible on each build? I've just setup rpm filtering in BF4.1 on my brand new build. It fly's great. But is the idea to keep moving the filter sliders as far right as possible? Or do you just accept that it flys great and don't think too much more into? Not sure how far into the danger zone I should go. My only gripe is I still have a hint of prop wash I want to get rid of and my sliders arnt in the warning zone yet. Cheers, and great work!!
All the features in BF are tuned to work together, turning off Dmin means you have to adjust a lot of other stuff to "balance it out again" same for I-term relax for example. To get the last few percent of performance, things got really complicated. But the everting is still exposed to the user... And you really need to know what you are doing to have a good result. The sliders are the first step in providing an alternative, they change multiple settings in a promotional way, so you don't have to understand every little detail.
Hello from Germany i know that you are in the group of the craters and its all truhs what you are writing . I faying more experimetatin and with the sliders and iterm relax and V Bat gain ...... So everybody has to understand real what he is doing and read on Git Hub all over tunning Tiosfor 4.1 . Best regards and happy flaying times . :-))))))) Joshua is for me the best because he brings its more esyer to the Beta Usesrs !!!!!!!
Hey bardwell, i noticed that you were using the pyrodronef4 board as i am but how come your tasks are at about 26%? when i did exactly what you did in the video, my task max load was up to 40-46% (i have two different pyrodrone f4 boards. the 46% is the v1 and the 40.6% is the V2.3). what else did you do to make it down in the 26% area? did you overclock?
I have a question. What should I adjust in my pids to get rid of bobbles when I punch the throttle? when I get to the max rpm of my 6 inch I tend to get some oscillations but really its trying to solve the mini bobbles when punching throttle
Hey Joshua - great video. I have a 7" that was always a problem quad. I moved it to a stiffer frame. Helped a bunch. Then did the upgrade to 4.1 and added RPM filtrers. Followed your instructions. What I am noticing, as I move the sliders for filtering toward less filtering, my propwash gets better, but I am seeing jello slowly introduced each time I move the sliders down. Motors are cool. Is this expected? Do I need to move to pid tuning after this to get rid of jello? Or accept the propwash? No matter what, great series. This thing flies better than ever before.
Hi Joshua. I noticed on 7:31 timeframe specifically on D Term Lowpass Filters section, your "D Term Lowpass 1 Filter Type" was showing BIQUAD. However, when you disabled some settings, the BIQUAD setting disappeared and got replaced by PT1 right after you clicked "Enable Sliders" button. What is the correct setting?
As one was paying attention, default value of Gyro Lowpass 2 Cutoff frequency is default at 500 Hz after flash. Moving the Gyro Filter Multiplier slider from default to low and back sets the value to 250 hz. Bug?
Great comparison and explanation JB. I haven’t tuned betaflight in over a year lol. Heck I still run 3.2 on my hawk 5 but I’ve got it tuned perfectly and have memorized my pids for the 3 differentprops I run on it for racing and freestyle. But I’ve got the buzz and have been wanting to move it up to 4.1 and start playing with it. Looks like BF has gotten more complicated but easier at the same time lol. I’ve just been running fl1 the last year and it works for me but now it’s time to venture out at least on my freestyle rigs. Maybe one day I’ll try it on my racers but for now ima leave them with falcoX since it’s working so well for me. I’m also working on 2 freestyle rigs now both are actually Flightone but ima have to put bf4.1 on one of them and do a side by side comparison soon 👍👍
Thanks for that video! 4.1 with RPM is still the best until now. My 3" has a lot of propwash witt 3.5.x and 4.0.x. Now its way better! My questions are: Do you recommending your Dynamic notch settings also for small quads? Because the tuning note and mouseover in configurator says for small quads, set it to high (you say low in your video). Do you also switch D-min completely off in 4.1? Thanks for a comment, best regards!
How to deal with toothpicks and twig is something the Devs should maybe flesh out? I have the filters high... There's a recommendation to meet higher harmonics with smaller quads. One thing that confuses me is the p/d ratio Mouse overs says: push it high. But that leads to high PID values and I'm used to lower ones... Anyway more testing needed on that quad!
Hello Joshua thanks for the vidio and look where you are 128000 suscrived its realy graet you are the Drone Master !!!!! And i have seen you from the first day and thanks for all your great WORKS . Best regards from Germay :-))))))))
@@fuleo yes, you just have less and much more subjective information about how the quad responds to your changes (which can vary in quality depending on the pilot's level of experience). You can't really go wrong by enabling rpm and pushing filtering sliders to the right a bit at a time, checking for hot motors or problems at each step. Once filters are set you can PID tune without black box info. See UAVTech videos about that and/or the Stingy method... Blackbox just allows you to know, objectively, how good the tune is, and helps a lot to troubleshoot when something odd is happening or when the normal methods don't result in good performance.
So basically the first step is move the line to the right and when motor became warm/hot start with the PID. But at this point what you suggest to do with pids sliders?
It would be interesting to see a similar comparison between BF versions on a good quad, that flies well, even those have propwash. Like you said, the one you were flying had some vibration issues that were noticeable throughout the video on all BF versions. I just want to see how good the propwash can get on a clean, well flying quad with the latest firmware and i feel like you havent shown that yet.
Great video! I'm pretty new on fpv as well as in building drones. I do really like your 4.1 playlist! It's great. Question please? Can you explain why in the filter you did you PT1 rather than BIQUAD? I have also tried pid adjustment using adjustment setting in BF4.1 but it doesn't work. Are you doing any video on how to tune pid on 4.1? Thanks for your awesome job!
Thanks for so many highly informative videos. I'm fairly new to the hobby, and you have really helped me advance quickly... I'm hoping you can help me with a question. I set up my cidora for 3d flight, but was getting horrible propwash with the master 3d props. I'm still on betaflight 4.0.4. Followed your filter instructions in the beginning of this video. Turned off all filters, set d term lowpass1 dynamic min and max cutoff to 60 and 175 respectively, and disabled d min... now its flying incredibly, buttery smooth. But it feels like it lost a bit of power, and my battery drained much faster than usual, but the motors did not get hot... is it normal to lose some punch with less filtering? Or am I missing something here? Any advice would be very much appreciated
What do you suspect is still causing the bobbles in the final flight? Also, would this make the '6s on 4s motors' challenge easier to achieve with the FC knowing the output RPM or am I way off track?
It’s crazy how big a part psychology plays in all this lol you are flying the rpm filter quad so gracefully meanwhile the others just slamming full throttle into propwash back and forth 😂 (I do the same exact thing) HOWEVER; personally, I didn’t really see a difference both had that wobble on high throttle moves both had that yaw p gain propwash thing that all new bf has.. I guess the rpm filter can take a beating but so can older betaflight.. Obviously just my opinion.. either outcome this video is important to show what 4.1 can or can’t do.. I’m gonna stay away for now.. at least as long as my curiosity will allow ⏰
I definitely disagree. When I flew with each setting, I did a 1 minute-ish flight with nothing but power loops and hard turns. I also did this with RPM filters. Then afterwards I did a full freestyle flight. When I edited the video, I put in ONLY the freestyle flight so you can see a full range of flight characteristics. But the freestyle flight also has some hard turns and etc. It just has everything else as well. The goal was not to hide anything. Just trying to keep the video under 25 minutes (the original edited length, which showed every single flight). But my point is, you're right that there is a difference between the three flights. But it's not because I was subconsciously trying to make the RPM filter look good. It's just because I didn't show you the short version of the RPM filter flight.
Joshua Bardwell well now that makes sense lol I still don’t see much difference in your quads performance tho.. when I tried rpm filters in 4.0 i was disappointed and I hear the filter tech is exactly the same in 4.1 so unless the other features (are there any?) are doing something killer then I dunno if it would be any different.
@@MaxBeamer I was on the fence to as my 3.5.6 is running perfect..but i guarantee switch one quad to 4.1 on Bardwell's settings and do a full throttle 180 around a post with both setup's and you'll see.
i saw that to and the expo was surprising. cant understand why people are afraid to share there setup's. someone new to fpv that is struggling could rely benefit from that kind of knowledge.
Stupid question time. Can I use a newer version of betaflight than what my fc came with? Do I have to flash my fc to the newest beteflight? I’m running 3.5.5 I downloaded when I got my mobula7 and never updated. I’m now flying a board from an eachine x140hv in a different frame and having random roll twitches out of nowhere. That’s why I am looking to use a newer version of betaflight now.
No such thing as stupid questions. Before you flash anything else do a full backup of current firmware and settings. Once you've done that, flash away my friend.
Yes you can use a newer version of betaflight if it shows there is one available for your flight controller, my mobula shows the most recent available for it is 4.0.2. And you dont have to flash the newest available version, you can flash whatever version you want thats available for your flight controller firmware target.
do these settings apply to all types and types of motor? or are there some special tricks ... for example motor sizes 22xx or 11xx ... 14xx-18xx..etc ...
Question? Installed 4.1 and flashed regulators 32.7. But sometimes when you connect the battery, the motors do not sound like that, the music is mixed. This is a normal phenomenon. You have to reconnect the battery three times four synchronous motors sounded. Regulators 32 Bit Holybro Kakute 35A. Matek F405 STD
@@JoshuaBardwell Well Yes, but that's the point. I install Desh from 600, the motor I twist and the error is less than 0%, approximately 0,046, etc. I Install Desh from 300 motors show 0% of errors. Interesting and strange. Perhaps this algorithm so built, that minimal passage Desh from 300 safer and without mistakes, and Desht 600 betrays mistakes but less 0.
Merry Christmas JB, I have all premium components on a slam nasty frame. I keep lowering filter Sliders down. I'm at 1.7 on both. Everything seems great. Cold motors. Should I keep going?
If the motors are cold and you don't see any bad flight characteristics like mid throttle oscillation or Jello and your motor sound smooth then yes keep going the handling will only get better from there.
@@JoshuaBardwell I'm running t motor f55 pro 2 f3 mcu 4-1 esc and f80 pro 1900kv. I figured it would be noisy with such big motors on a little frame. I've been blown away with your filter settings. All my quads sound so good. I will keep going By the way thats exactly what I was wondering What to look for oscillations at mid throttle. It sounds better and better the more I keep going down. Will try again tomorrow
@@JoshuaBardwell so I flew 3 packs just now and im at 1.7 from 1.6. Tried 1.8 also. I could have stayed there but nervous on this new build. Props are new everything is new. As I go lower I'm definitely getting more throttle response? Doesn't make sense. I'm also getting way less bounce back after fast flips. I tested stock 1.0 VS 1.8. Why would the lower filtering give more throttle response and have less bounce back. There's virtually none now at 1.7 and 1.8. Motors are still cool and it's the warmest day ever for the end of December at 67°. That should be warm enough to be looking for hot motors? This filtering has me puzzled. Mark or UAV Tech suggested in his video that this range is pushing it. D term noise will start getting past even with cool motors. Have any thoughts on all that? Thanks for your help and making my quad fly the best I've ever flown!
When you do stuff like flying backwards through the trees towards the fence, are you just guessing or have you done that so many times you know where you have to be?
When I connect to betaflight and click on rec tab the indicator bars are blank ,rec is bound Spectrum ar7700 ppm on a wizard 220. normally when i'have connection problem I'd still get the bars???? Still a newbe after 4 years.
What is it about that quad that was giving it poor flight characteristics in the first place? Was it the condition of the motors, the FC, or combination of props/motors/frame?
Mr. Bardwell, I am confused why you abondoned your traditional method to measure propwash handing (back and forth across the lawn) once you flew with BF 4 .1. I get that prop wash handling is empirical and subjective but for someone who likes to design more controlled tests this one was very flawed. Anyways love your videos!
Hi ! Can you give me the parameter pid betaflight? My plane uses 2207 2450Kv & Mamba F405 MK2. But they suffer from tremor and propwash, I'm using betaflight 4.1. Thanks
@@MCsCreations high P is a problem we see loads of though with FF doing so much of the pushing now you just don't need loads of P.. i can look at peoples PID numbers and know that they have P term oscillations going on with out even looking at a log or a video
Mr Joshua I am having problem with mid throttle oscillation, can you please help me. I am on betaflight 4.1 and have followed your settings in the video. TIA.
If using blheli32 I sughest changing motor PWM frequency to 48k and then if it still happens reduce motor PWM frequency by 4k until you find a value that minimizes it. Don't go lower than 16k.
its sortof a dissapointment with all the 4.x releases those wobbles and bobbles, only firmware I ever see have yaw wobbles, even though it feels great and the flight feel is awsome, but when you look into your hd footage its just wobbles all thay way, specially when going 0 throttle, every time wobbles :(, love the idea of rpm filter, and it seems to be working great, maby its something else in 4.0 thats creating those wobbles, but for now I'm back to good old helio board with super old firmware, but its just sooo much more smooth in the hd footage.. :s even though it feels sloppyer when flying... :S, thanks josh for the video, plz let us know if someone finds out why those wobbles are there....
i thought it was just my quad when i set my gyro harmoncs to 1 ...switched it back to 3 but yet to test it ..im excited to give it another try now, i had some strange video noise last time even with caps on the escs
You need to set harmonics to at least 2. 1 is not enough. And between 2 and 3 harmonics there is not a lot of difference in latency so I'd recommend to just use 3 harmonics.
hi Joshua, thanks for the video. Have filter multipler set to 1.4 and the quad wobbles a little and has awful prop wash. do i increase the multiplier so that there is less latency or do i decrease so it will have more filtering?
If the quad is not flying decent in smooth slow flight then I would not push the filters. I would try to figure out what is wrong with the rough PIDs first.
Hey joshua why you dont try that problematic drone with EMUFLIGHT? Its really working well, just default PID and filter and ready to fly, i would advice you to try it, i think is going to be even smoother with that
@@JoshuaBardwell just remember to tell us the results if you try it, on my experience, i havr try bf 4.1 with rmp filter and everything and after try them with default pid and filters with emuflight... basicly i have change my freestlyle, racer and 7 inch long range drone to emuflight and i dont even think to come back to bf🤷♂️
Would a dual gyro f7 have any benefit in terms of tuning? Maybe it could perform better with no rpm filters, since the dual gyros are supposed to eliminate motor noise or something like that? I have no idea what I’m doing but I’m trying to tune a dual gyro f7 fc to work well with 4.1
is it advisable to switch to dshot600 if the reading of the engine revs does not read errors? and in that case is better set gyro and pidloop to 8k? or is useless? in a fF7 FC
I'm literally having the same micro jitters and bobbles with these recommended settings in 4.1 when flying straight, wonder if its something that can be tuned out.
Check your stick commands for jitter and consider RC smoothing if you have it. We're starting to get such fast response in the PIDs that it matters now. I can hear the quad jiggle the same speed as the springs if I let the stick slap back to center! it's not usually noticeable until the sticks are centered because you're not trying to flight straight in those situations.
Sounds like your regulator powering the cam or VTX is going bad. I had a similar problem a few months back with my VTX. I had to put it on Vbat instead of 9v regulator and its been good since.
@@byrden1985 yup, thank you. I noticed after I posted comment that if I just open my eyes and read it says it there, haha. Thanks for the reply though.
I don't really get the whole killing-propwash thing. I like this "settling-in" motion of propwash in HD footage, makes it look real and lets you "feel" the quad while watching which I enjoy more than the one-million-dollar-advertisement Reelsteady-look. Just preference I guess. I'm more inclined to tune out the little vibrations you see while flying straight... But is propwash actually bad like in making your motors hotter or something? best regards
@@aowi7280 Mostly lots of filtering. That's why I'm wondering... Aside from that what helped me the most was using decent props, though. (S3 Watermelon)
@@aowi7280 And I'd say your video already looks pretty ok judging from the last one. I think you mostly have some little actual jello which you can get around with ND-filters and/or camera settings. For a 6" expect some tiny little bobbles I'd say. ,)
Propwash is the quad doing something I don't want it to. I mostly race and don't record the video. Propwash is the quad fighting me basically., and the PIDs over-reacting.
The Gyro RPM Filter option only shows up on the PID Tuning > Filter Settings when the "Bidirectional DShot (requires supported ESC firmware)" is enabled on the Configuration tab.
Hi Josh. I set my vtx to 200mw and tried to fly but the drone kept dropping signal and went to failsafe within 100 ft. I turned it back to 25mw and it flew fine. Do you know what the problem would be? Its a babyhawk R pro 4". Thanks
I noticed in the cli in betaflight that there is rpm harmonics on the dterm and default they are set to 0. You can choose 0-3 just like on the gyro. Would this be able to help in any way for filtering on the dterm?
@@JoshuaBardwell you're right. I'm just curious. What about the dynamic idle function? Have you used that at all. From what I read about it that is supposed to give better braking torque and better desync protection. Also improve the floaty moves.
@@JoshuaBardwell I followed the tuning guide for 4.1 for dynamic idle and I have gotten an idle_min_rpm=27 and my dshot idle = 3 and it has no desyncs for being so low plus the hangtime and quick maneuvers seem better.
Hey Joshua, I've been flying my quad not aggressively at all, getting 4 minutes or more on a 4s 1300mah battery, and my motors have been coming down a little hot I think. They come down at around 100F, and where I am is around 85F. Is this normal or are they sort of hot? I am using default BF4.0.0 pids and filters, Blheli32 Pwm frequency 32kHz, Dys Samguk 2207 2600kv motors. Are the temps cool to warm or are they hot? Thx
Only 15 degrees above ambient sounds like basically nothing. I wouldn't worry. I wouldn't start worrying about motor temp until around 140 to 160 F. And in reality, damage doesn't start happening to the enamel until closer to 190 or 200.
In Betaflight 4.2 they changed the LOW MEDIUM HIGH setting for Dynamic Notch to a "max Hz" setting. This video tells you to set the Dynamic Notch Max to LOW. The equivalent setting in BF 4.2 is 350 Hz.
Can i use this filter settings for spracing f3
And i also wanted to ask that one of my motor is running smoothly when no props on it and it doesn't spin or spin in ticking motion when props on
Plz help
@@rudra9117 try soldering a new motor to the ESC that has the problem and see if the new motor behaves the same way - if the new motor works fine, it's the problem with the 'old' motor. if the new motor doesn't work fine, something is wrong with your ESC and the 'old' motor might be fine. It could be both - the ESC and the motor, but IMHO it's your ESC
@@sergeyzhelezko thank you so much the problem was with motor
It is my privilege to learn from and work with Chris. He (and the other maintainers--Mike, Bruce, jflyper, AJ, Joe) deserve some long over due recognition from the BetaFlight community for his tireless commitment to improve BetaFlight.
I Agree!
Chris is the best!
👍👏
Don’t know Chris but I want to 👍
@@Politicallyhomeless957Slack, search the Betaflight thread on RCGroups, or facebook.com/groups/291745494678694/
When is BF going to put out a pilot filter so my skills look better?
Willy did something similar with rc input smoothing
It's called "Hypersmooth" Works great! :)
@@5zero7RC yeah for clean video not clean flying lol
@@ryanbunnell7488 But if others only ever see the HD footage, for all they know you did fly cleanly :)
BF 5.1 introducing No-Skill Filter!
=P
(it's pay-to-win, though...)^^
People will believe that is the best settings for your own quad, but not true, different kwad setups, different settings, your tutorial just a great start point for people understand.
Thanks for sharing one more time your great work.
I'm a powersports tech. I've been watching you sir, steele and uav f. 2 months and I still haven't flown yet but I'm 80% done with my first build and thanks to mostly you. I should by tm have a nano that I still need to Sauder a reciever in and simulator. I feel like a kid b4 Christmas waiting everyday on the mail.. I just wanted to say thanks for the video. Like I said I'm a powersports tech and understand give and take very well. Most informative video I've found so far and I haven't even flown yet.
You have gotten so much better at flying over the past few years!!! Nice job
I'm glad that this gives you videos to make.
I am also pretty exhausted by then needless complexity on top of needless complexity that has been added to the flight code over the last year, maybe 18 mo.
The things like I term relax, feedforeward, d term setpoint, gyro notch filters, are all superfluous. The problem I have with all this comes from the lack of necessity. It just isn't a big enough improvement to validate the face slamming into concrete ordeal that is attempting to decipher the tool-tip language to learn these new settings, and what to do with them. If they were written by someone who has ever had a conversation with a human being this wouldn't be such a problem. The way things are being detailed now, you have to just move the settings around and hope for the best. That is a problem when the result can be the destruction of something so deeply personal, precious, and expensive. I am not willing to go through those "fire and flame" ordeals every 4-6 mo. I have to say, when a new feature comes out, and whoever made it obviously can't form a coherent sentence describing the purpose of their work, I assume it's probably not that evolved of a feature. The next few weeks are awash with RUclips videos where people TRY to make some kind of sense of the new feature, and make some intelligent attempt at utilizing it. Comments about horrific quad destruction are sprinkled throughout the community, in the wake of a nonsensical paragraph of unintelligible, real world example free, blather that suddenly appeared in the configuration, that we are FORCED to deal with. Most people just ignore it and hope for the best, not due to a lack of interest, or enthusiasm, or intelligence. Typically quite the opposite, most of us are full of "stoke". The problem is the tool-tips. Without any meaningful information about the new feature, we are at the mercy of people who have quads to burn, who shakily inch their way out the diving board and give it a try, with one eye closed, and a healthy, informed fear of the unknown they have been thrust into. If there were real world examples, as well as the labyrinthine, obtuse garbage that we get when we mouse over that tiny question mark we would be able to USE them.
I am not even hoping to be able to utilize something well made, that brings me to a new level. I have lowered the bar to "God I hope this doesn't ruin my hardware". For all the effort that must go into writing this code, someone needs to be able to articulate the new features in a usable way. I volunteer. If you are reading this, and you are developing new features, and ppl have NO IDEA what you are talking about when you tell them what you are doing, and the implementation is consistently a problem: hit me up. I can, and will, listen to you, ask you meaningful questions for clarification. I will then translate that into a tool-tip that can be used by someone who is not in the room with either of us.
Please. For the love of all things flying, please.
Kinda reminds me of the archaic Catholic creed that held priests were the only ones able to interpret the Bible. I love me some Priest Bardwell, but it would also be nice if BF included some lamen terminology with their software as you describe. ESPECIALLY for any who may be just getting into the hobby.
YES! This is the video I've been looking for! All the other BF filter videos have one thing in common - "tuning" already great quad. What can you teach using that? No example, no real improvement - the difference might be for the pilot, but not perceivable in video.
Taking a problematic quad and showing real difference even in video - that's what I was looking for.
Again, thanks for this.
Hi Joshua. That was some of the best flying I’ve seen you do and with as you say a “troubled quad”. Thanks for testing and sharing you do so well. I have successfully put 4.1 using JESC on my Diatone GTR349 and Tinyhawk Freestyle quads. 👍👌🙏
Very good explanation of the settings, I was able to get my GEPRC Rocket flying beautifully, ridiculously little prop wash without guards and said very tight rpm filtering. It's really hard to believe how well it handles wind. Thank you.
Oh cool!! Would you be so kind to share your filter settings and maybe D_min settings? I have been trying and while everything else feels fantastic on this little rocket I still have lots of prop wash!
About done. Best it's ever flown. Man this new t motor f55 pro 2 f3 mcu version does not like high PIDS! I'm in the 30 range on roll. Was getting ridiculous bounce back. It FF is hard to tune also. Anyhow I'm extremely grateful and could just give you a big old kiss. So happy after a couple days none stop of tuning
Learned something today for sure! Much appreciated
Hi Joshua, I've just tuned my Wizard X220S (almost 3 yers old!!) And it flies like charm! Thank you a lot!
I’ve brought my X220S back to life. Can you tell me what PIDs worked for you and did you use any other filter settings?
I am adjusting back to 3 from 1 now. Your flying is getting really good. Awesome information here thank you Joshua.
You have a awesome home and yard. Extremely grateful for these informative videos
Like everyone is sayin - one of ur best byard sessions ever!
Just did a 1 minute flip flop test and my goodness the first thing I noticed was the sound! My motors are rippier and crispier. Also motors are cooler than on 4.0.6 and smoother. Running Talon F7 8k/8k Dshot 600 on 6s with your exact settings. Thank you Bardwell! I'm gonna trade one of my $2 recurring Paypal Payments in for your Patreon sub cause you deserve it.
I love your videos. How in the world did you get out of that tree? I remember watching you a long time ago, when The flamewheel 450 was a big deal, And flight test just started up. David wendinstall was building tri copters...... and on and on and on. The yuneec q500+ was a all the rage. Your flying has progressed leaps and bounds, Good job Joshua! Thanks for all your hard work..... I learned something today..... And Subbed.
Thanks for showing us the proper way to trim trees.
I have similar filter settings after testing for the last few months. Sliders all the way to the right (2X), RPM enabled and harmonics at 3, dynamic notch at q=200, w=0, LOW and min hz at 100. I used to disable D_Min but have had better results enabling it and raising the min to about 75% of what it would be without and setting the max about 15-20 higher than without. The other change I make from 4.0.x are raising P quite a bit.
I too noticed the high p gains. I am having a troublesome 6" (running rpm) and my P gains are at 52 and its getting better. Before this I was too nervous to take the filters up so high, but I think I may move that slider!!! :)
@@mbycfpv8937 Yeah I'm getting some weird behavior on my 6in with flips and rolls. RPM-filter at around 2x but the determ lowered. large and slow bouncback but the P and D's area already cranked up 1.3X. wasnt nearly this bad with 4.0 with RPM filter. let me know if you find settings that work for your 6in.
@@MachuPichuu got it going good now. Filters at 1.5, roll p 44, pitch p 48, roll d 44, pitch d 46, d min adv 45, item relax 11 gyro
@@mbycfpv8937thanks! reading some more I think the iterm relax, lowing and setting to gyro Helps the most on 6in+. I'll check more info the d advance.
Amazing playlist about 4.1! Really appreciate as I’m quite new in this hobby and thanks to your videos I could upgrade to 4.1 and setup all important things we would never know without you Joshua:)
I’m struggling with similar soft wobbling when flying in straight line or falling down after loop.. did you figured out how to get this fixed?
You called this “bubbling” , “soft twitches” and almost said twice in this video what it can be but didn’t finished sentence hehe
Btw that UAV-Tech performance filter tune is a little outdated. I believe he said in a recent video that instead of using a single BiQuad you should use two PT1 filters set to values that add up to a similair latency. This will reduce the noise at lower frequencies more than the BiQuad.
Ha! Best part is where you hit branches and keep flying with bent props. That's where the rpm filter truly shines.
I personally like to look at pid tool box to check my filters. And you can check to see how many harmonics you have. I have only ever had 1 in all my quads so far.
Is the idea to try reduce the filters as much as possible on each build? I've just setup rpm filtering in BF4.1 on my brand new build. It fly's great. But is the idea to keep moving the filter sliders as far right as possible? Or do you just accept that it flys great and don't think too much more into? Not sure how far into the danger zone I should go. My only gripe is I still have a hint of prop wash I want to get rid of and my sliders arnt in the warning zone yet. Cheers, and great work!!
Thank you for doing the stupid things like turning off most of the filtering so i dont have to test it for myself :p
AMEN Thank you Josh !
Yeah, lowest I have mine is 1.4
All the features in BF are tuned to work together, turning off Dmin means you have to adjust a lot of other stuff to "balance it out again" same for I-term relax for example. To get the last few percent of performance, things got really complicated. But the everting is still exposed to the user... And you really need to know what you are doing to have a good result.
The sliders are the first step in providing an alternative, they change multiple settings in a promotional way, so you don't have to understand every little detail.
Hello from Germany i know that you are in the group of the craters and its all truhs what you are writing . I faying more experimetatin and with the sliders and iterm relax and V Bat gain ...... So everybody has to understand real what he is doing and read on Git Hub all over tunning Tiosfor 4.1 . Best regards and happy flaying times . :-))))))) Joshua is for me the best because he brings its more esyer to the Beta Usesrs !!!!!!!
In the past, turning off D_min was suggested to help solve MTO. since MTO is an issue on this quad, I took that step.
@@JoshuaBardwell wouldn't a static notch be useful in that situation?
The idea was that the D gain was "fluttering" and causing the MTO.
Cool video, thanks for putting out useful videos everyday, keep it going
A lot better that is impressive. I that's a great video to show how RPM is worth doing.
Hey bardwell, i noticed that you were using the pyrodronef4 board as i am but how come your tasks are at about 26%? when i did exactly what you did in the video, my task max load was up to 40-46% (i have two different pyrodrone f4 boards. the 46% is the v1 and the 40.6% is the V2.3). what else did you do to make it down in the 26% area? did you overclock?
I have a question. What should I adjust in my pids to get rid of bobbles when I punch the throttle? when I get to the max rpm of my 6 inch I tend to get some oscillations but really its trying to solve the mini bobbles when punching throttle
Hey Joshua - great video. I have a 7" that was always a problem quad. I moved it to a stiffer frame. Helped a bunch. Then did the upgrade to 4.1 and added RPM filtrers. Followed your instructions. What I am noticing, as I move the sliders for filtering toward less filtering, my propwash gets better, but I am seeing jello slowly introduced each time I move the sliders down. Motors are cool. Is this expected? Do I need to move to pid tuning after this to get rid of jello? Or accept the propwash? No matter what, great series. This thing flies better than ever before.
are you using proper motors for 7" quad ? you need big ass motors it starts there not tuning ...
Hi Joshua. I noticed on 7:31 timeframe specifically on D Term Lowpass Filters section, your "D Term Lowpass 1 Filter Type" was showing BIQUAD. However, when you disabled some settings, the BIQUAD setting disappeared and got replaced by PT1 right after you clicked "Enable Sliders" button. What is the correct setting?
PT1. Clicking "enable sliders" resets everything to defaults. Defaults are PT1.
Thanks!
@JB drop your anti gravity to say 2 and see if that fixes the hunting in a straight line
Thanks man had same issue flyin straight, been drivin me nuts...recognized ur name so I know it's good advice, gonna send some $ paypal
As one was paying attention, default value of Gyro Lowpass 2 Cutoff frequency is default at 500 Hz after flash. Moving the Gyro Filter Multiplier slider from default to low and back sets the value to 250 hz. Bug?
Great comparison and explanation JB. I haven’t tuned betaflight in over a year lol. Heck I still run 3.2 on my hawk 5 but I’ve got it tuned perfectly and have memorized my pids for the 3 differentprops I run on it for racing and freestyle. But I’ve got the buzz and have been wanting to move it up to 4.1 and start playing with it. Looks like BF has gotten more complicated but easier at the same time lol. I’ve just been running fl1 the last year and it works for me but now it’s time to venture out at least on my freestyle rigs. Maybe one day I’ll try it on my racers but for now ima leave them with falcoX since it’s working so well for me. I’m also working on 2 freestyle rigs now both are actually Flightone but ima have to put bf4.1 on one of them and do a side by side comparison soon 👍👍
Thanks for that video! 4.1 with RPM is still the best until now. My 3" has a lot of propwash witt 3.5.x and 4.0.x. Now its way better! My questions are: Do you recommending your Dynamic notch settings also for small quads? Because the tuning note and mouseover in configurator says for small quads, set it to high (you say low in your video). Do you also switch D-min completely off in 4.1? Thanks for a comment, best regards!
How to deal with toothpicks and twig is something the Devs should maybe flesh out?
I have the filters high... There's a recommendation to meet higher harmonics with smaller quads.
One thing that confuses me is the p/d ratio Mouse overs says: push it high. But that leads to high PID values and I'm used to lower ones...
Anyway more testing needed on that quad!
Same question here. Working with an toothpick ish quad
Hello Joshua thanks for the vidio and look where you are 128000 suscrived its realy graet you are the Drone Master !!!!! And i have seen you from the first day and thanks for all your great WORKS . Best regards from Germay :-))))))))
newbee question: why is low filtering making the motors hot? and what exactly gets filtered? do you have a video on that?
does this apply for micros? can you do a pid configuration for micros/toothpics etc?
The principles are always the same. If you have RPM on micro, get it setup and raise Sliders one step at a time. Then tune P/D ratio.
I have a micro with mamba stack, which doesn't have a blackbox SD card slot. Can I still do filtering this way (without access to blackbox) ?
@@fuleo yes, you just have less and much more subjective information about how the quad responds to your changes (which can vary in quality depending on the pilot's level of experience). You can't really go wrong by enabling rpm and pushing filtering sliders to the right a bit at a time, checking for hot motors or problems at each step. Once filters are set you can PID tune without black box info. See UAVTech videos about that and/or the Stingy method... Blackbox just allows you to know, objectively, how good the tune is, and helps a lot to troubleshoot when something odd is happening or when the normal methods don't result in good performance.
So basically the first step is move the line to the right and when motor became warm/hot start with the PID. But at this point what you suggest to do with pids sliders?
It would be interesting to see a similar comparison between BF versions on a good quad, that flies well, even those have propwash. Like you said, the one you were flying had some vibration issues that were noticeable throughout the video on all BF versions. I just want to see how good the propwash can get on a clean, well flying quad with the latest firmware and i feel like you havent shown that yet.
Great video! I'm pretty new on fpv as well as in building drones. I do really like your 4.1 playlist! It's great. Question please? Can you explain why in the filter you did you PT1 rather than BIQUAD? I have also tried pid adjustment using adjustment setting in BF4.1 but it doesn't work. Are you doing any video on how to tune pid on 4.1? Thanks for your awesome job!
Thanks for so many highly informative videos. I'm fairly new to the hobby, and you have really helped me advance quickly... I'm hoping you can help me with a question. I set up my cidora for 3d flight, but was getting horrible propwash with the master 3d props. I'm still on betaflight 4.0.4. Followed your filter instructions in the beginning of this video. Turned off all filters, set d term lowpass1 dynamic min and max cutoff to 60 and 175 respectively, and disabled d min... now its flying incredibly, buttery smooth. But it feels like it lost a bit of power, and my battery drained much faster than usual, but the motors did not get hot... is it normal to lose some punch with less filtering? Or am I missing something here? Any advice would be very much appreciated
That was wicked ! Have to tried on 3 inch tune?
What audio settings do you run on your gopro josh?
Thank you JB for this video can you make a video on brushless whoops using BF 4.1 ?
Nice !!!!! I have always wanted to ha e the freedom to abuse a quad copter trying insane tricks !!!!. That's gotta be fun!!!!
The sound is pretty awesome love it fantastic
What do you suspect is still causing the bobbles in the final flight? Also, would this make the '6s on 4s motors' challenge easier to achieve with the FC knowing the output RPM or am I way off track?
Hey josh is that the hyperlite vert freestyle 2 frame?? I have The same frame but not finished with the build yet. Great video I'm learning lol.
Have you given up on the two AXII "Stubbies" you used to use on your RapidFire? You've had a directional antenna on your last few videos.
I go back and forth depending where I'm flying.
Oh ... I am not going to learn something today! 😉...
Great video and I did learn something...
It’s crazy how big a part psychology plays in all this lol you are flying the rpm filter quad so gracefully meanwhile the others just slamming full throttle into propwash back and forth 😂 (I do the same exact thing) HOWEVER; personally, I didn’t really see a difference both had that wobble on high throttle moves both had that yaw p gain propwash thing that all new bf has.. I guess the rpm filter can take a beating but so can older betaflight.. Obviously just my opinion.. either outcome this video is important to show what 4.1 can or can’t do.. I’m gonna stay away for now.. at least as long as my curiosity will allow ⏰
I also did some slamming in the video. The power loops were intended specifically to bring out propwash.
Joshua Bardwell not the same. 🤷♂️
I definitely disagree. When I flew with each setting, I did a 1 minute-ish flight with nothing but power loops and hard turns. I also did this with RPM filters. Then afterwards I did a full freestyle flight.
When I edited the video, I put in ONLY the freestyle flight so you can see a full range of flight characteristics. But the freestyle flight also has some hard turns and etc. It just has everything else as well.
The goal was not to hide anything. Just trying to keep the video under 25 minutes (the original edited length, which showed every single flight).
But my point is, you're right that there is a difference between the three flights. But it's not because I was subconsciously trying to make the RPM filter look good. It's just because I didn't show you the short version of the RPM filter flight.
Joshua Bardwell well now that makes sense lol I still don’t see much difference in your quads performance tho.. when I tried rpm filters in 4.0 i was disappointed and I hear the filter tech is exactly the same in 4.1 so unless the other features (are there any?) are doing something killer then I dunno if it would be any different.
@@MaxBeamer I was on the fence to as my 3.5.6 is running perfect..but i guarantee switch one quad to 4.1 on Bardwell's settings and do a full throttle 180 around a post with both setup's and you'll see.
what kind of frame is this kwad in the video?? I cant seem to figure it out...???
Pretty impressive results, Joshua! Fantastic! 😃
What frame is that?
MC's Creations Hyperlow Vert Freestyle 2
@@ChrisJohnsoniShootnRaw Thanks, dude! 😊
Oh, I liked your youtube name!!! 😂
MC's Creations hahaha thx 👍
Feeling a little Skitzo style on the last pack
Did you leave on the d min on your 4.1 set up with rpm filtering? What's your pids not filter set up but your pids on 4.1with rpm ?
Do you have any recommendations to get rid of the "jitter"/vertical vibrations seen after setting the optimal 4.1 settings? I'm having the same.
4:09 For a split second we see his rates. I'm going to try those on my kwad.
i saw that to and the expo was surprising. cant understand why people are afraid to share there setup's. someone new to fpv that is struggling could rely benefit from that kind of knowledge.
Should I lower filtering to reduce propwash or move with the pid sliders ?
First get the filters as low as you can, up to 2x if possible.
Can I use these settings on 4.2 development? I did on my SiliyX5 and it really flies great now. Thanks for the knowledge and happy holidays 🙏👍
Stupid question time. Can I use a newer version of betaflight than what my fc came with? Do I have to flash my fc to the newest beteflight? I’m running 3.5.5 I downloaded when I got my mobula7 and never updated. I’m now flying a board from an eachine x140hv in a different frame and having random roll twitches out of nowhere. That’s why I am looking to use a newer version of betaflight now.
No such thing as stupid questions. Before you flash anything else do a full backup of current firmware and settings.
Once you've done that, flash away my friend.
Yes you can use a newer version of betaflight if it shows there is one available for your flight controller, my mobula shows the most recent available for it is 4.0.2. And you dont have to flash the newest available version, you can flash whatever version you want thats available for your flight controller firmware target.
There are lots of warning about NOT pasting in an old diff. At least not the filters, PIDs etc. Rates and features are OK, I think.
Does this work on whoops aswell? Because i upgraded my mobula 7hd its board and would love a little more stable footage 😊
do these settings apply to all types and types of motor? or are there some special tricks ... for example motor sizes 22xx or 11xx ... 14xx-18xx..etc ...
The beauty of the RPM filters is that they will target your actual motor RPM no matter what size of motor and prop you are using.
Question? Installed 4.1 and flashed regulators 32.7. But sometimes when you connect the battery, the motors do not sound like that, the music is mixed. This is a normal phenomenon. You have to reconnect the battery three times four synchronous motors sounded. Regulators 32 Bit Holybro Kakute 35A. Matek F405 STD
As long as you have < 1% error in the Motors tab, don't worry about it.
@@JoshuaBardwell Well Yes, but that's the point. I install Desh from 600, the motor I twist and the error is less than 0%, approximately 0,046, etc. I Install Desh from 300 motors show 0% of errors. Interesting and strange. Perhaps this algorithm so built, that minimal passage Desh from 300 safer and without mistakes, and Desht 600 betrays mistakes but less 0.
Merry Christmas JB, I have all premium components on a slam nasty frame. I keep lowering filter Sliders down. I'm at 1.7 on both. Everything seems great. Cold motors. Should I keep going?
If the motors are cold and you don't see any bad flight characteristics like mid throttle oscillation or Jello and your motor sound smooth then yes keep going the handling will only get better from there.
@@JoshuaBardwell I'm running t motor f55 pro 2 f3 mcu 4-1 esc and f80 pro 1900kv. I figured it would be noisy with such big motors on a little frame. I've been blown away with your filter settings. All my quads sound so good. I will keep going
By the way thats exactly what I was wondering
What to look for oscillations at mid throttle. It sounds better and better the more I keep going down. Will try again tomorrow
@@JoshuaBardwell so I flew 3 packs just now and im at 1.7 from 1.6. Tried 1.8 also. I could have stayed there but nervous on this new build. Props are new everything is new. As I go lower I'm definitely getting more throttle response? Doesn't make sense. I'm also getting way less bounce back after fast flips. I tested stock 1.0 VS 1.8. Why would the lower filtering give more throttle response and have less bounce back. There's virtually none now at 1.7 and 1.8. Motors are still cool and it's the warmest day ever for the end of December at 67°. That should be warm enough to be looking for hot motors? This filtering has me puzzled. Mark or UAV Tech suggested in his video that this range is pushing it. D term noise will start getting past even with cool motors. Have any thoughts on all that? Thanks for your help and making my quad fly the best I've ever flown!
When you do stuff like flying backwards through the trees towards the fence, are you just guessing or have you done that so many times you know where you have to be?
Both.
@@JoshuaBardwell Either way that was a pretty amazing move.
When I connect to betaflight and click on rec tab the indicator bars are blank ,rec is bound Spectrum ar7700 ppm on a wizard 220. normally when i'have connection problem I'd still get the bars???? Still a newbe after 4 years.
should you move filters left if you get flyaways from the start?
Yes.
What is it about that quad that was giving it poor flight characteristics in the first place? Was it the condition of the motors, the FC, or combination of props/motors/frame?
Unknown
Mr. Bardwell, I am confused why you abondoned your traditional method to measure propwash handing (back and forth across the lawn) once you flew with BF 4 .1. I get that prop wash handling is empirical and subjective but for someone who likes to design more controlled tests this one was very flawed. Anyways love your videos!
Thank you again for this video!
Hey what kwad is this? You flying and tuning here? Is it a vert freestyle? Thanks for the info peace
Hi ! Can you give me the parameter pid betaflight? My plane uses 2207 2450Kv & Mamba F405 MK2. But they suffer from tremor and propwash, I'm using betaflight 4.1. Thanks
Hey Joshua, the vibrations on the first 2 flights... Are they from high Ps? Or am I wrong? (I'm asking just to see if I'm diagnosing it correctly.)
No, none of the above. There is something wrong with the quad mechanically like an off-balance motor or a damaged gyro on the FC.
@@JoshuaBardwell Oh, I see... Thanks, Joshua! 😊
@@MCsCreations high P is a problem we see loads of though with FF doing so much of the pushing now you just don't need loads of P.. i can look at peoples PID numbers and know that they have P term oscillations going on with out even looking at a log or a video
Mr Joshua I am having problem with mid throttle oscillation, can you please help me. I am on betaflight 4.1 and have followed your settings in the video. TIA.
If using blheli32 I sughest changing motor PWM frequency to 48k and then if it still happens reduce motor PWM frequency by 4k until you find a value that minimizes it. Don't go lower than 16k.
Thanks, I am not running blheli32 esc, I am using Jesc rpm filtering on.
JESC can do 48 kHz PWM frequency but not adjustable. Try that.
its sortof a dissapointment with all the 4.x releases those wobbles and bobbles, only firmware I ever see have yaw wobbles, even though it feels great and the flight feel is awsome, but when you look into your hd footage its just wobbles all thay way, specially when going 0 throttle, every time wobbles :(, love the idea of rpm filter, and it seems to be working great, maby its something else in 4.0 thats creating those wobbles, but for now I'm back to good old helio board with super old firmware, but its just sooo much more smooth in the hd footage.. :s even though it feels sloppyer when flying... :S, thanks josh for the video, plz let us know if someone finds out why those wobbles are there....
What version are you using?
i thought it was just my quad when i set my gyro harmoncs to 1 ...switched it back to 3 but yet to test it ..im excited to give it another try now, i had some strange video noise last time even with caps on the escs
You need to set harmonics to at least 2. 1 is not enough. And between 2 and 3 harmonics there is not a lot of difference in latency so I'd recommend to just use 3 harmonics.
hi Joshua, thanks for the video. Have filter multipler set to 1.4 and the quad wobbles a little and has awful prop wash. do i increase the multiplier so that there is less latency or do i decrease so it will have more filtering?
If the quad is not flying decent in smooth slow flight then I would not push the filters. I would try to figure out what is wrong with the rough PIDs first.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you!
Hey joshua why you dont try that problematic drone with EMUFLIGHT? Its really working well, just default PID and filter and ready to fly, i would advice you to try it, i think is going to be even smoother with that
Hmmmm interesting idea.
@@JoshuaBardwell just remember to tell us the results if you try it, on my experience, i havr try bf 4.1 with rmp filter and everything and after try them with default pid and filters with emuflight... basicly i have change my freestlyle, racer and 7 inch long range drone to emuflight and i dont even think to come back to bf🤷♂️
Appreciate your work very much :)
Would a dual gyro f7 have any benefit in terms of tuning? Maybe it could perform better with no rpm filters, since the dual gyros are supposed to eliminate motor noise or something like that? I have no idea what I’m doing but I’m trying to tune a dual gyro f7 fc to work well with 4.1
You would expect that a dual gyro board using sensor fusion would be able to run less filtering while still having cool motors.
@@JoshuaBardwell Alright, so what about 3 inch quads, the filtering must be different, do you just use higher htz on the dynamic notch filters?
thanks JB for the explain. 👍
Hey Josh. I noticed in betaflight your running reversed props. After watching your video for props out or in I am wondering why the change?
I typically run standard props, as usual. If this quad was reversed, it's the exception.
is it advisable to switch to dshot600 if the reading of the engine revs does not read errors? and in that case is better set gyro and pidloop to 8k? or is useless? in a fF7 FC
For f7 you can probably run 8k DSHOT600
Haven't been in FPV for too long but are u supposed to PID tune before putting on RPM filters or the other way or does it not matter
He answered this question in the last minute of the video
I'm literally having the same micro jitters and bobbles with these recommended settings in 4.1 when flying straight, wonder if its something that can be tuned out.
Check your stick commands for jitter and consider RC smoothing if you have it. We're starting to get such fast response in the PIDs that it matters now. I can hear the quad jiggle the same speed as the springs if I let the stick slap back to center! it's not usually noticeable until the sticks are centered because you're not trying to flight straight in those situations.
Joshua can you help me out. Whenever I throttle up on my quad my video cuts out and I can’t figure out why.
Sounds like your regulator powering the cam or VTX is going bad. I had a similar problem a few months back with my VTX. I had to put it on Vbat instead of 9v regulator and its been good since.
Joshua, would you know why I can't move the filter sliders all they way to the right, I can only move to 1.5
Turn on expert mode
@@byrden1985 yup, thank you. I noticed after I posted comment that if I just open my eyes and read it says it there, haha. Thanks for the reply though.
Great video thank u JB.
I'm testing it but its going to be hard to beat the no filtering setting on 4.0
I don't really get the whole killing-propwash thing. I like this "settling-in" motion of propwash in HD footage, makes it look real and lets you "feel" the quad while watching which I enjoy more than the one-million-dollar-advertisement Reelsteady-look. Just preference I guess. I'm more inclined to tune out the little vibrations you see while flying straight...
But is propwash actually bad like in making your motors hotter or something?
best regards
Any tips "to tune out the little vibrations you see while flying straight"?
@@aowi7280 Mostly lots of filtering. That's why I'm wondering...
Aside from that what helped me the most was using decent props, though. (S3 Watermelon)
I'm using HQ Durable 6X3.5X3 or 5.5x
@@aowi7280 And I'd say your video already looks pretty ok judging from the last one. I think you mostly have some little actual jello which you can get around with ND-filters and/or camera settings.
For a 6" expect some tiny little bobbles I'd say. ,)
Propwash is the quad doing something I don't want it to. I mostly race and don't record the video. Propwash is the quad fighting me basically., and the PIDs over-reacting.
Why my MAMBA F405 mini MK2 dun have a Gyro RPM filter option :(
Just found the Jesc needs to pay to get :(
The Gyro RPM Filter option only shows up on the PID Tuning > Filter Settings when the "Bidirectional DShot (requires supported ESC firmware)" is enabled on the Configuration tab.
djbkom it needs 32 version esc which mine is the s version esc :(
Amazing freestyle fly ;) G! J!
Are these settings for 4S only, or do they work on 6S builds to?
Do you think this would work for whoops?
Hi Josh. I set my vtx to 200mw and tried to fly but the drone kept dropping signal and went to failsafe within 100 ft. I turned it back to 25mw and it flew fine. Do you know what the problem would be? Its a babyhawk R pro 4". Thanks
Change the VTX, that one is faulty, it fly ok at 25mW but drop the ball at 200mW , my 2 cents
Move the RX antenna away from the vtx antenna as much as possible. Millimeters count!
Can you use the rpm filters without bidirectional dshot?
No. It's not possible.
@@JoshuaBardwell ok. But i can still run 4.1 without the rpm filters?
I noticed in the cli in betaflight that there is rpm harmonics on the dterm and default they are set to 0. You can choose 0-3 just like on the gyro. Would this be able to help in any way for filtering on the dterm?
If they are off by default, then I would want to have a pretty good reason for turning them on.
@@JoshuaBardwell you're right. I'm just curious. What about the dynamic idle function? Have you used that at all. From what I read about it that is supposed to give better braking torque and better desync protection. Also improve the floaty moves.
@@JoshuaBardwell I followed the tuning guide for 4.1 for dynamic idle and I have gotten an idle_min_rpm=27 and my dshot idle = 3 and it has no desyncs for being so low plus the hangtime and quick maneuvers seem better.
It says it is optimal for reverse flow conditions so the motor will never go below the min rpm.
The exact settings I'm using are
Set transient_throttle_limit = 0
Set idle_min_rpm = 27
And in the configuration tab I set my dshot idle to 3.
Hey Joshua, I've been flying my quad not aggressively at all, getting 4 minutes or more on a 4s 1300mah battery, and my motors have been coming down a little hot I think. They come down at around 100F, and where I am is around 85F. Is this normal or are they sort of hot? I am using default BF4.0.0 pids and filters, Blheli32 Pwm frequency 32kHz, Dys Samguk 2207 2600kv motors. Are the temps cool to warm or are they hot? Thx
Only 15 degrees above ambient sounds like basically nothing. I wouldn't worry.
I wouldn't start worrying about motor temp until around 140 to 160 F. And in reality, damage doesn't start happening to the enamel until closer to 190 or 200.