Excellent information Greg. I took a bunch of notes. What would be really cool is to have a synopsis/checklist on each pre-em you stated. Hopefully my notes correlate correctly to your verbiage. I’m sure some of those 100 dollar words I didn’t know how to spell correctly. 😂 Thanks for another great video!
It's a new channel. I did not expect it to take off as it has. Got 1000 subs in 7 months. Average RUclips channel takes 22 months to reach that milestone. Need to up my game on tech. Think putting the word on the screen will help. Also I tag products in the comments so that helps as well.
I have a mostly fescue lawn, but I was thinking of overseeing with Kentucky bluegrass due to the rhizomes. Do I think it’s worth it for its repairing properties or should I keep overseeing with tall fescue? I’m located in New Jersey. Also, not sure how it will look in the summer, I thought Kentucky bluegrass turns dormant brown while fescue stays green in the summer? Thanks!
I like bluegrass and you are correct it does "heal" faster than fescue with is a "bunch type" grass. Also, you mentioned getting brown in the summer. It has less drought tolerance than tall fescue, is more susceptible to fungus and germination time of 21 days. Tall fescue germinates in 10 to 14 days so you are not having to keep the yard moist and "baby it" nearly as long as with bluegrass. If it were me I would stick with what it working. The artimuss tall fescue blend I mentioned in the video is an excellent tall fescue blend. You can get it online from Heritage PPG.
Appreciate it! In my research of this video I was surprised of the limitations of pre emergents.. it's becoming an issue with moderating temps here in the mid Atlantic and northern US. Our options are limited. Luckily there are some really good post emergent options coming on the market.
@@GregPhillips.22 agreed. I have only been doing 2 apps on the lawns I treat. Once in the Fall, and once in Spring. But I am seeing that those 2 are not lasting the full year. Considering doing a split in the Fall app, and the same for the Spring app to see if that will get extended control.
Do you have any videos on how and what to use to control POA Annua in Kentucky bluegrass in Wisconsin. I’ve tried glyphosate, and split applications of pre emergent in spring and fall. Lots of people using Velocity PM but at $699.00/bottle, it’s pretty expensive. I’ve had some success with Etho 4SC pushing the POA down. Would love to hear your suggestions. Thank you
Herbicide control for poa annua in cool season grasses is a challange. I am going to be doing a comprehensive video on it in August. For poa annua it is a management plan against it. There is a growth regulator that some golf course superintendents have used on putting greens however I do not think it is available for homeowner use. Also know of some guys that have used it and wacked some desirable grass with it too. Overall the management plan I use and you alluded it is a combination of pre emergent herbicides, fertility, overseeding. I am searching for any new herbicides that home owners can use hope to find one. Right now heading to summer you don't want to do anything too fancy/aggressive to your yard for obvious reasons.
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks Greg, I’ve had some success with Etho 4 SC on the POA annul in my KBG this spring. It’s suppressed the growth and pushed it down below the surrounding grass. Lots of people on the Lawn Care Nut Forum are purchasing the Velocity PM. I’m somewhat satisfied with the Etho 4SC as it’s controlling the POA vs glyphosate and burning it off only to have it come back a bit next season. I’ve seen little improvement when applying Prodiamine in Fall and spring to combat the POA. I really enjoy your videos. Education is the key and you do a great job of that. I always link your videos in the Lawn care forums so people can educate themselves. So many people are throwing chemicals on their lawn spraying and praying. I see a lot of trouble in the future with overuse of fungicides and pesticides because home owners are uneducated about the impacts. I have been following the Lawn Care Nut Cool Season Guide for fertilizer and bio stimulants for the last 5 years. You have me rethinking some of my applications and money spent and whether it’s needed. I appreciate your ethical advice. You’re a great resource. Thank you!
I think the root pruning worry is a little overdone. If you lived in the northern transition zone or applying to stressed turf may be more of a consideration. Only other exception would be new sod..nearly all pre emergent herbicides have some caution of applying to new sod. As far as centipede. You can't do the roundup dormant application. Simazine/princep would be a great option. It's a group 5 herbicide has some early post emergent action on many weeds. Then follow up with a split application of a group 3 herbicide in the spring and early summer. . That would keep you fairly weed free and put 2 different group pre emergent herbicides out per year.
Good video. So living here in east tx, the crab grass has take control over my bermuda/st aug. Will the pre emerg itself stop the crabgrass from coming back next spring? Bought 80 lbs of andersons to cover approx 18,000 sq ft
It will provided you put it out before germination and within the rates & timeframes per the label instructions. Some pre emergents control longer the higher the rate (Dimension for example). Per the video, just keep in mind if you have used group 3 herbicides you may get resistance over time with continued use of the same group.
Question about the Roundup(glyphosate) application on dormant Bermuda. Would that be necessary for my lawn which has minor broadleaf weeds. Or would I be okay with just doing a one of the warm season pre like prodiamine? I used dimension this spring.
If you have weeds germinated and growing you will need to apply a post emergent herbicide. If you go the glyphosate route..I do mine in February on dormant Bermuda. That way I am sure it's dormant and I am getting all the weeds that have germinated over the winter.
@@GregPhillips.22 cool. I might go that route come February’24. As always, thank you for making this lawn care stuff simple enough for a lamen homeowner like me. I Really appreciate the knowledge you’re sharing.
Couple of years. Once was well established. I had figured as aggressive as Bermuda is and my height of cut was sufficient to keep sunlight off the soil surface, I wondered if it was needed. Sure enough it was not.
I tilled and brought 25 yards of soil from my backyard to fill a sunken area that I will be seeding TTTF. Will 1 application of Meso 4 SC at seeding be enough to prevent weed germination. Should I follow up with another application after 4 weeks?
Excellent information Greg. I took a bunch of notes. What would be really cool is to have a synopsis/checklist on each pre-em you stated. Hopefully my notes correlate correctly to your verbiage. I’m sure some of those 100 dollar words I didn’t know how to spell correctly. 😂 Thanks for another great video!
It's a new channel. I did not expect it to take off as it has. Got 1000 subs in 7 months. Average RUclips channel takes 22 months to reach that milestone. Need to up my game on tech. Think putting the word on the screen will help. Also I tag products in the comments so that helps as well.
i've watch 6 of your videos today. Great content and information. Looking forward to watching more and to new content you post!
Thanks!!
I have a mostly fescue lawn, but I was thinking of overseeing with Kentucky bluegrass due to the rhizomes. Do I think it’s worth it for its repairing properties or should I keep overseeing with tall fescue? I’m located in New Jersey. Also, not sure how it will look in the summer, I thought Kentucky bluegrass turns dormant brown while fescue stays green in the summer? Thanks!
I like bluegrass and you are correct it does "heal" faster than fescue with is a "bunch type" grass. Also, you mentioned getting brown in the summer. It has less drought tolerance than tall fescue, is more susceptible to fungus and germination time of 21 days. Tall fescue germinates in 10 to 14 days so you are not having to keep the yard moist and "baby it" nearly as long as with bluegrass. If it were me I would stick with what it working. The artimuss tall fescue blend I mentioned in the video is an excellent tall fescue blend. You can get it online from Heritage PPG.
Great video! Good info on pre’s.
Appreciate it! In my research of this video I was surprised of the limitations of pre emergents.. it's becoming an issue with moderating temps here in the mid Atlantic and northern US. Our options are limited. Luckily there are some really good post emergent options coming on the market.
@@GregPhillips.22 agreed. I have only been doing 2 apps on the lawns I treat. Once in the Fall, and once in Spring. But I am seeing that those 2 are not lasting the full year. Considering doing a split in the Fall app, and the same for the Spring app to see if that will get extended control.
Do you have any videos on how and what to use to control POA Annua in Kentucky bluegrass in Wisconsin. I’ve tried glyphosate, and split applications of pre emergent in spring and fall. Lots of people using Velocity PM but at $699.00/bottle, it’s pretty expensive. I’ve had some success with Etho 4SC pushing the POA down. Would love to hear your suggestions. Thank you
Herbicide control for poa annua in cool season grasses is a challange. I am going to be doing a comprehensive video on it in August. For poa annua it is a management plan against it. There is a growth regulator that some golf course superintendents have used on putting greens however I do not think it is available for homeowner use. Also know of some guys that have used it and wacked some desirable grass with it too. Overall the management plan I use and you alluded it is a combination of pre emergent herbicides, fertility, overseeding. I am searching for any new herbicides that home owners can use hope to find one. Right now heading to summer you don't want to do anything too fancy/aggressive to your yard for obvious reasons.
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks Greg, I’ve had some success with Etho 4 SC on the POA annul in my KBG this spring. It’s suppressed the growth and pushed it down below the surrounding grass. Lots of people on the Lawn Care Nut Forum are purchasing the Velocity PM. I’m somewhat satisfied with the Etho 4SC as it’s controlling the POA vs glyphosate and burning it off only to have it come back a bit next season. I’ve seen little improvement when applying Prodiamine in Fall and spring to combat the POA. I really enjoy your videos. Education is the key and you do a great job of that. I always link your videos in the Lawn care forums so people can educate themselves. So many people are throwing chemicals on their lawn spraying and praying. I see a lot of trouble in the future with overuse of fungicides and pesticides because home owners are uneducated about the impacts. I have been following the Lawn Care Nut Cool Season Guide for fertilizer and bio stimulants for the last 5 years. You have me rethinking some of my applications and money spent and whether it’s needed. I appreciate your ethical advice. You’re a great resource. Thank you!
What would your pre emergent program be on centipede and St Aug? A lot of folks worry about root pruning with Specticle and prodiamine.
I think the root pruning worry is a little overdone. If you lived in the northern transition zone or applying to stressed turf may be more of a consideration.
Only other exception would be new sod..nearly all pre emergent herbicides have some caution of applying to new sod.
As far as centipede. You can't do the roundup dormant application. Simazine/princep would be a great option. It's a group 5 herbicide has some early post emergent action on many weeds. Then follow up with a split application of a group 3 herbicide in the spring and early summer. . That would keep you fairly weed free and put 2 different group pre emergent herbicides out per year.
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks for the advice. I'm going to give Coastal a shot since it combines prodiamine and simazine.
Good video. So living here in east tx, the crab grass has take control over my bermuda/st aug. Will the pre emerg itself stop the crabgrass from coming back next spring? Bought 80 lbs of andersons to cover approx 18,000 sq ft
It will provided you put it out before germination and within the rates & timeframes per the label instructions. Some pre emergents control longer the higher the rate (Dimension for example). Per the video, just keep in mind if you have used group 3 herbicides you may get resistance over time with continued use of the same group.
So, Prodiamine is a group 3?
Yep
Question about the Roundup(glyphosate) application on dormant Bermuda. Would that be necessary for my lawn which has minor broadleaf weeds. Or would I be okay with just doing a one of the warm season pre like prodiamine? I used dimension this spring.
If you have weeds germinated and growing you will need to apply a post emergent herbicide. If you go the glyphosate route..I do mine in February on dormant Bermuda. That way I am sure it's dormant and I am getting all the weeds that have germinated over the winter.
@@GregPhillips.22 cool. I might go that route come February’24. As always, thank you for making this lawn care stuff simple enough for a lamen homeowner like me. I Really appreciate the knowledge you’re sharing.
How many years did you apply pre-em before you no longer needed it?
Couple of years. Once
was well established. I had figured as aggressive as Bermuda is and my height of cut was sufficient to keep sunlight off the soil surface, I wondered if it was needed. Sure enough it was not.
I tilled and brought 25 yards of soil from my backyard to fill a sunken area that I will be seeding TTTF. Will 1 application of Meso 4 SC at seeding be enough to prevent weed germination. Should I follow up with another application after 4 weeks?
One should be fine..most of your weed pressure will be over by that time.