Are there any TDC markings on the crank pulley that would help getting the positioning correct? Is it still worth doing a compression test before/after this or is that just duplicating things?
If you suspect compression is low before hand it doesn't hurt to check. As for markings, there are some on the sprocket. There's a fat tooth at the top of the pulley on the back where it mate's to the chain sprocket so that's 12oclock
@@WannabeTuners Just compression tested my 2009 VW Scirocco 2.0 TSI - CAWB engine code as it has a intermittent misfire. Getting pretty much 200psi on all four cylinders cold, very slightly higher hot. Not bad for a 90k engine and no need for a leakdown test I think!
30 degrees doesn't seem like a whole lot, but just hope it didn't skip timing. Sometimes the valve springs may cause a slight rotation in the opposite direction which isn't a big deal.
I bought an 07 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0 TFSI with 140k miles and regret it. It died on me and I'll soon know if I have to rebuild the head or engine. I don't know why, but I'm fantasizing rebuilding with a K04.
@@WannabeTuners It's a DSG automatic. If it was a standard, I'd be more enthusiastic about trying to modify it. In running condition, the car's probably worth 3k, so it's almost like gambling to try and hotrod the thing. I've always driven manuals, and I love the control it gives me. I hate automatics, but for an auto the DSG dual clutch thing is pretty hot. Gear changes are fierce. My chain must have jumped. What's crazy is the chain, the chain tensioner, the cam phaser, the timing belt, everything is intact and working. You normally see broken tensioner, tensioner guides, chain, but everything is solid in my car. That almost assures me that I have bent valves. If I trusted the transmission, I'd go big turbo and rebuild whatever was necessary while I have it apart. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I've never done any of this stuff. Learning as I go.
@@HideSeek_Soje111 So your '07 has the TSI engine? If its not the timing, it could be that the balance shaft seized up and has locked up the motor. When my exhaust balance shaft seized, the starter could not turn it and even with a large breaker bar on the crank pulley it would not budge. Keep us posted on what you find!
@@WannabeTuners It's a TFSI. When it died, the starter was turning the engine, but it sounded weird. I later found out it was the sound of no compression. I got it home and did a compression test. When doing it, I looked at the cams and both cams were turning. I had 30 PSI compression on 2 of the cylinders and 0 PSI on the others. I'm learning as I go8 and am relying on the internet for answers, so it's slow moving. I probably should have just pulled the heads in the beginning. I could pull the exhaust manifold to try and see the valves. I can turn the motor, but it comes to a point where I can no longer turn it. I get so lost with this stuff. I had the engine at TDC and placed the AST cam locking tool in the cams. It fit, but I then realized I had to make sure that I actually had piston 1 at TDC on the compression stroke. So now I'm confused. I shouldn't be hitting valves, since the . cams are still in the position that the locking tool holds them. I'm driving the Audizine forum crazy with my questions. I'm going to look into the sized balance shaft.
We didn't, 2009/2010 is a weird time for the Jetta. In 2010 the Jetta 2.0T kept the MK5 body but got the new CCTA TSI engine from the GTI. In 2011 the body style on the Jetta went to the MK6. I like that you noticed haha, no one ever notices this!
Great video as usual guys. Perfect timing because I just did this on my MS6 today.. it was misfiring like crazy and had a Po302 code. Replaced plugs and coil packs were fine but cylinder 2 blew 0 PSI on the compression test. Did the leak down and there's literally air coming out of the spark plug holes on cylinders 3 and 4. Cylinder 1 had air coming out of the oil cap pretty good. Cylinders 3 and 4 were nice and tight at least. What do you think, bad head gasket and piston rings in cylinder 1? Got 112k miles on it and I'm sure those intake valves are gunked full of crap..
I got a cheap gauge from harbor frieight so I don't really trust the right leak gauge.. but i could at least hear the air escaping on 2 cylinders. I just want to cry.
craigzilla100 Thank you! I know that cracked ringlands are not uncommon on the 2.3 mzr disi in the mazdaspeed's, and will usually cause high leakage into the crankcase and out the oil cap. I find it odd that when testing cylinder 2, air would leak out from the spark plug holes on cylinders 3 and 4. If the head gasket was bad causing cylinder 2 to leak into cylinders 3 and 4, I would imagine you'd have misfires on 3 and 4 as well. It could be that either the intake or exhaust valve seats are leaking, and air is finding it's way into 3 and 4 as their valves could potentially be open depending on whichever cycle they are on. It's also very important to ensure the engine doesn't cool down and that you are 100% at TDC and on the compression stroke. When I checkd mine, I took so long that my engine cooled down quite a bit, and my leakage was super high by the time I got to cylinders 4 and 2:) Did you have air leaking out of the spark plug hole on cylinder 2 when testing the other cylinders?
Wannabe Tuners thanks for the response guys. That's a great point about the valves. The air leaked into cylinders 3 and 4 when testing cyl 2, but when I tested 3 and 4 they are were nice and sealed tight. I even cranked up the pressure and couldn't hear anything. So it sounds like my valves in 2 arent closing all the way or the valve seals are bad. Cylinder 1 tested fine on compression, but I found it odd that i could hear so much air coming out out of the oil cap when I applied high pressure.. no misfires detected on 1 yet. Sounds like I need to give it a good valve cleaning and reference your video for that again!
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yeah super nice video !!! very cool and nice to understand the right tool and how to proceed keep up the work guys
Mazda Speed Thanks so much!
Very helpful video!!! Thank you very much
Man you are funny,even forgot to zip up your fly lol,
Are there any TDC markings on the crank pulley that would help getting the positioning correct? Is it still worth doing a compression test before/after this or is that just duplicating things?
If you suspect compression is low before hand it doesn't hurt to check. As for markings, there are some on the sprocket. There's a fat tooth at the top of the pulley on the back where it mate's to the chain sprocket so that's 12oclock
@@WannabeTuners Just compression tested my 2009 VW Scirocco 2.0 TSI - CAWB engine code as it has a intermittent misfire. Getting pretty much 200psi on all four cylinders cold, very slightly higher hot. Not bad for a 90k engine and no need for a leakdown test I think!
What if i turned engine counterclockwise? like 30*
30 degrees doesn't seem like a whole lot, but just hope it didn't skip timing. Sometimes the valve springs may cause a slight rotation in the opposite direction which isn't a big deal.
Can u do this test if your engine is not running
The engine cannot be running for this test and should be at operating temp for accurate results
I bought an 07 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0 TFSI with 140k miles and regret it. It died on me and I'll soon know if I have to rebuild the head or engine. I don't know why, but I'm fantasizing rebuilding with a K04.
Damn sorry to hear, hopefully the repair goes well. Haha it's an addicting hobby that's for sure!
@@WannabeTuners It's a DSG automatic. If it was a standard, I'd be more enthusiastic about trying to modify it. In running condition, the car's probably worth 3k, so it's almost like gambling to try and hotrod the thing. I've always driven manuals, and I love the control it gives me. I hate automatics, but for an auto the DSG dual clutch thing is pretty hot. Gear changes are fierce.
My chain must have jumped. What's crazy is the chain, the chain tensioner, the cam phaser, the timing belt, everything is intact and working. You normally see broken tensioner, tensioner guides, chain, but everything is solid in my car. That almost assures me that I have bent valves.
If I trusted the transmission, I'd go big turbo and rebuild whatever was necessary while I have it apart.
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I've never done any of this stuff. Learning as I go.
@@HideSeek_Soje111 So your '07 has the TSI engine? If its not the timing, it could be that the balance shaft seized up and has locked up the motor. When my exhaust balance shaft seized, the starter could not turn it and even with a large breaker bar on the crank pulley it would not budge. Keep us posted on what you find!
@@WannabeTuners It's a TFSI. When it died, the starter was turning the engine, but it sounded weird. I later found out it was the sound of no compression. I got it home and did a compression test. When doing it, I looked at the cams and both cams were turning. I had 30 PSI compression on 2 of the cylinders and 0 PSI on the others. I'm learning as I go8 and am relying on the internet for answers, so it's slow moving. I probably should have just pulled the heads in the beginning. I could pull the exhaust manifold to try and see the valves.
I can turn the motor, but it comes to a point where I can no longer turn it. I get so lost with this stuff. I had the engine at TDC and placed the AST cam locking tool in the cams. It fit, but I then realized I had to make sure that I actually had piston 1 at TDC on the compression stroke. So now I'm confused. I shouldn't be hitting valves, since the . cams are still in the position that the locking tool holds them. I'm driving the Audizine forum crazy with my questions.
I'm going to look into the sized balance shaft.
@@WannabeTuners I appreciate the response by the way. I need all the help I can get.
how did you motor swap the mk5 fsi for a tsi
We didn't, 2009/2010 is a weird time for the Jetta. In 2010 the Jetta 2.0T kept the MK5 body but got the new CCTA TSI engine from the GTI. In 2011 the body style on the Jetta went to the MK6. I like that you noticed haha, no one ever notices this!
Great video as usual guys. Perfect timing because I just did this on my MS6 today.. it was misfiring like crazy and had a Po302 code. Replaced plugs and coil packs were fine but cylinder 2 blew 0 PSI on the compression test. Did the leak down and there's literally air coming out of the spark plug holes on cylinders 3 and 4. Cylinder 1 had air coming out of the oil cap pretty good. Cylinders 3 and 4 were nice and tight at least. What do you think, bad head gasket and piston rings in cylinder 1? Got 112k miles on it and I'm sure those intake valves are gunked full of crap..
I got a cheap gauge from harbor frieight so I don't really trust the right leak gauge.. but i could at least hear the air escaping on 2 cylinders. I just want to cry.
craigzilla100 Thank you! I know that cracked ringlands are not uncommon on the 2.3 mzr disi in the mazdaspeed's, and will usually cause high leakage into the crankcase and out the oil cap. I find it odd that when testing cylinder 2, air would leak out from the spark plug holes on cylinders 3 and 4. If the head gasket was bad causing cylinder 2 to leak into cylinders 3 and 4, I would imagine you'd have misfires on 3 and 4 as well. It could be that either the intake or exhaust valve seats are leaking, and air is finding it's way into 3 and 4 as their valves could potentially be open depending on whichever cycle they are on. It's also very important to ensure the engine doesn't cool down and that you are 100% at TDC and on the compression stroke. When I checkd mine, I took so long that my engine cooled down quite a bit, and my leakage was super high by the time I got to cylinders 4 and 2:) Did you have air leaking out of the spark plug hole on cylinder 2 when testing the other cylinders?
Wannabe Tuners thanks for the response guys. That's a great point about the valves. The air leaked into cylinders 3 and 4 when testing cyl 2, but when I tested 3 and 4 they are were nice and sealed tight. I even cranked up the pressure and couldn't hear anything. So it sounds like my valves in 2 arent closing all the way or the valve seals are bad. Cylinder 1 tested fine on compression, but I found it odd that i could hear so much air coming out out of the oil cap when I applied high pressure.. no misfires detected on 1 yet. Sounds like I need to give it a good valve cleaning and reference your video for that again!