It's about the torque vs speed... At the thick end the band pulls hard but slower, which is great for starting the ammo moving. The further toward the thin end, the faster the band is contracting but with less force and that's great for accelerating. Think about car gears, you start in a low gear to get the car moving and as you go faster you use higher (faster but less torquey) gears. A car that is either stuck in 1st or 5th gear isn't going to win a drag race. Similarly a straight band is pushing slower as it contracts but a tapered one can keep applying (at least some) extra force because it is not contracting evenly over the length, which means the ammo is correctly "powered" torque wise for a more of it's journey beween the pouch and forks.
I'd like to see 3/8" vs 7/16" (9.5 mm vs 11.1 mm) steel for speed with band sets made from Theraband Gold and GZK Green .80 mm with tapers of 30-20 and 25-20 and whatever else you would like to throw in the tests. Your videos are very useful and an excellent source of real stats -the numbers don't lie. I appreciate how you keep the same type of draw and max out the bands on each test, always factoring in the active length, as it eliminating some of the variables. I just watched a dude test a bunch of bands, anchoring to the side of his mouth, and then to make his point on his favored bandset, he switched to longer bands and a half butterfly draw, which invalidated his comparison. Thank you for NOT doing silly stuff like that and your straight forward presentation!
Every band test that I do I will be maxing the bands out to my draw length. Many people ask me what the active draw length I am useing but that information is useless if your draw length is longer or shorter than mine. I have just started sending people the video I made on how I make my bands. I am thinking many people don't check the elongation of their elastic. I will considder these sizes I will definatly do the theraband as I have some. If I can get my hands on some green I will but I don't want to buy a whole roll of bands I won't shoot.
@@ATOMark Awesome! I bought the GZK from their U.S. outlet on Ebay and I think the only green thickness they had was .80 mm so that's what I bought. I was actually looking for the .66 Green GZK because Gamekeeper John was touting the speed and distance it gave his shots. But I did not want to order directly from China just because it seems to take too long for me. Thanks again!
I use Snipersling black in both. 7 and. 8 with 9.5mm steel Cut Bands 30 to 20 over 7 in active Band and also 35 to 25 over same Active Band length and get superb power and pure Knock down Energy and am pretty sure im getting over 200 fps would like to think more but no chrony and i do have the problem of short Band life with them mainly snapping near the pouch!
Extremely informative vid👍... once again thanks for taking the time to share your findings. I prefer lighter faster band set's myself all I shoot is targets. Your numbers have just confirmed it for me 😉👍
This is an awesome video, super informative! The energy in the bands needs to move themselves through the air and the projectile. The heavier ammo is demanding more energy and the thinner tapers can't keep up. However, for the 3/8 steel, if you cut the same tapers with a .6 or .65 band I would guess the results would be more similar to the 5/16 outcomes you showed.
Yup I think the 5.5 was just too light for fast speeds. I will do another video soon exploring tapers for bigger ammo like 3/8 and 7/16. I will use .65 or .70 for this test.
No I don't think so. I think there is a sweet spot for tapers and projectile weight. I think you really need to experiment with your bands to find the best fit for you.
@@ATOMark Thank you very much for your videos. If I want good speed for shooting 3/8'' steel, let's say 260 fps and above, what thickness and taper shall I get? With lowest draw weight possible. Thanks a lot.
I had some great speeds with 100% bands. I tested some 18-12 .7 indoors and got 255.7fps 20-12 ro 24-12 or 14 will do that and more for sure. I recently did a video of .8 100% in really cold weather and they performed great.
Here is my theory on the results of the different tapers: The 24-12 has a faster retraction speed than the 24-18 due to the narrower taper. However since it has less band material, there is less mass making it more susceptible to the heavier ammo's inertia. The 24-18 on the other hand might have a slightly slower retraction speed but its heavier nature will be less affected by the heavier projectile. However when you have a lighter ammo the thinner taper is able to stay truer to its retraction speed as there is less inertia to fight through. I'm just talking out of my ass though I could totally be wrong.
You used fancier words but these results confirmed exactly what I was trying to explain in the beginning of the video. I think you are spot on. Now just to find the right the right taper for 3/8 and 7/16
@@nOObels1 I appreciate that this thread is a year old, but this is from John Webb’s (Gamekeeper John) UK website; SINGLE GZK GREEN 0.66mm THICK TAPERED FROM 25mm to 20mm SINGLE SNIPERSLING YELLOW 0.7mm THICK TAPERED FROM 25mm to 20mm SINGLE THERABAND GOLD TAPERED FROM 30mm to 20mm DOUBLE THERABAND GOLD TAPERED FROM 20mm to 15mm Each pack of 3 bandsets gets sent out with 6 thinner strips of elastic to attach the elastic to the Catapult forks! All bandsets suit a 9.5mm ball best which is John's go to ammo for hunting, John also prefers the GZK green bands and its what he is shooting at now!
I could see what someone would say the test might be inaccurate but you did the best you had with the tools available. All in all good video and informational idk what’s not to like good job there brother and thanx for the effort in the info I will carry this along. 👍🏼 well done
Kilker shooting, reviews and also detailed analysis of the more scientific side of things... Slingshot fans who haven't found your channel are sleeping! Good stuff as always
@@ATOMark I currently shoot .6 GZK and am constantly experimenting with my tapers... So in a way I'm testing them myself although not on the chrony. My speed test is how many empty cans the shot will go through! If I get entry and exit with 8mm steel on three cans from about 5-ish meters, I know it will do the job!
I specially came back to check this video. I am using a taper of 25-15 and 20-12. I am experiencing early breakage of my bands at the pouch ends. I calculated that both the tapers are 40% and as you mentioned you too had the same problem. I understand a broader taper should solve that. Thanks for your wonderful videos. I knew l will find my answer in your videos. Thank you, God Bless. Wish You A Merry Christmas And A Happy New Year.
I’m looking to try a 24-16 taper for 0.7mm Simple Shot, 31” draw, and 9.5mm ammo. Do you think this will work well? Do you still like your 25-17 taper?
@@ATOMark good to know! I had no idea I could have a taper that large! I’ll have to look into 25-15 more. I was worried all the 0.7mm latex I bought was a bad idea till I saw you use 0.7mm with good tapers and get great results. Thanks so much!
Hi Mark, I'm a subscriber and thanks for all your advice. You commented how expensive steel is in Canada. there is a U.S. company: Mc Master Carr with 4-5 locations, it is a huge hardware store. They have low carbon steel balls with reasonable prices. Example: 5/16" 250 pcs $7.76, 11/32" 200 @ $1.85, 3/8" 250 @$11.38 so on... Just trying to help and hope it woks out for you. Keep the videos coming.
Makes sense. Less rubber, greater tension/stretch, more speed (If my understanding is correct). I guess it’s really all about trade off’s, and personal priorities. More importantly, thanks for the video and for the visual comparison, it really helped me wrap my brain around what’s happening with the taper. I shoot 5/16. Not for any reason particularly. I just bought 1500 of them and realized after how many 1500 really is 😂.
I much prefer 5/16 ammo to 3/8. They became hard to get in my area and the shipping was disgusting so I switched to 3/8 I am looking to switch back as soon as I find a good price I will buy 10000
@@ATOMark That’s actually good to hear. Makes me feel better about my purchase! I’m fairly new to slingshots but I’m already hooked. So much more enjoyable now than I remember as a kid.
I know. I like to shoot everyday. At least 10 minutes. This winter I only shot with clays maybe 2x a week if I was lucky. It brought my accuracy back a little. So I will be practicing in my garage for the next little bit. It is a little closer than 10m but it will still help get my accuracy back on track.
I've just started shooting gzk green cut 20/12 with a 6x stretch ratio and its the smoothest draw I've ever shot barely any draw weight and still pummels through drink cans and out the back with ease with 9.5mm steels
Ya this is my issue with GZK. The recipe has changed a couple times. The first batch I got was like what you have. Then the change. The elongation went to 5.5 and very heavy. From what younare telling me they went back to the original recipe. They used to be my favorite bands. I still have some .5, .54, .66 at home. I may need to order another roll soon and give them a try. I really hope the stabilize the bands from batch to batch. I would go back to gzk bands.
@@ATOMark yeah I definitely agree there! Have had some inconsistencies with gzk! I hadn't shot for around 6 months and starting again with my anti cold was like trying to stretch a set of boot laces 🤣 this green was a sample from a really old order that I never tried, I'll see if the new roll I've ordered matches up and let you know!
Excellent Video cheers An Arcane subject for most but highly informative for the rest of us Funnily enough i was having similar problems with Bands Snapping after a few shots ..Sometimes as few as 20 ! ..always near the pouch and with both GZK Black And Snipersling ( which i prefer to GZK) i use both .7 and. 8 with 3/8 Steel..Think maybe im using too much Elastic !..But saying that I get some Excellent Power straight through a Baked Beans tin at 20 yds comfortably ( when i hit it!) I was cutting them at 35 tapered to 25 mm over about 7 inch active Band length ..Folding the wide end in on itself im sure im getting plus 200 ft per second But ..Interesting and food for thought!
Man I am REALLY liking your channel & your great content & of course I thank you for it. I just recently got back to using slingshots as I am now retired and enjoying my "2nd childhood"!!! I also have gotten into archery and to put those speeds in a comparable perspective...a 45lb draw weight bow & a 300gr. arrow gives you somewhere between 160 -170 fps...a 50lb draw weight bow will get you around 170- 180 fps with same arrow...these are approximate speeds but pretty close as different set ups and strings will alter just what speeds you will get. Just a little input so you slingers out there can get an idea of just how well the band's of today perform in comparison to the sport of archery...the form & repeatedability are pretty much identical in both shooting sports...friends and neighbors of mine seem to be quite surprised that I use the same style of shooting for slingers & bows...some almost cringe when they see my draw length on a slinger is the same as a bow...makes perfect sense to me.I have always enjoyed the shooting sports and have an extensive collection of air guns also...when you retire you will find it hard to have more fun than I do...so, at the very least, get yourself a good slinger when you retire and have a blast.If you are into air guns those metal sculptured lawn decorations make awesome air gun targets for plinking in the bush or anyplace else you can shoot outside. To my surprise, those light metal lawn decorations will take hits at even 10 yards from a high powered air rifle shooting .22 slugs!!! They don't do so well with steel ball from a flipper though!!! Hahaha!!!
Leo, Seems we are on the exact same page... retired, back to slingshots, archery and a large collection of airguns 😀 My wife says that I am in my second childhood but really I'm still in my first and clinging to it desperately LOL!
Really interesting stuff & well done! Do the different tapers max out at the same length? & do you find a difference in accuracy? Great stuff again Mark, cheers
The active band length were the same and they all seemed to stop at the same spot. Yes I shot the 24-12 better than all the rest, in the warm up and the chrony test even though I am just putting the fork on target not aiming through the chrony. I believe this is due to the draw weight. Easier to hold, less hand fatigue and lighter smoother draw will give you better accuracy.
I'm getting into slingshot shooting but I have no clue where to start in order to find the taper for my bands. What taper configurafion would you recommend to start with, I'm shooting 1/4 Steel ammo with 18 to 12 taper but my bands are not lasting at all. I will appreciate any help or advice
The acceleration will be limited by the lowest spring rate to weight ratio. Spring rate being proportional to band width for constant thickness bands. Say the ball and pouch weigh 150 grains, and the weight of the active bands weigh 50 grains. The taper ratio for best acceleration would be 150 over 200 or 18mm and 24mm. If the ball and pouch drop to 50 grains with 50 grain band weight, it would seem the optimum taper for maximum speed would be 50 over 100 or 12mm and 24mm. The lighter the projectile, the more the taper. Note that the above was based on a constant bandweight per length of band. When you taper the band, that changes the assumption, and you could do more fine tuning, but you end up with a curve rather than a straight taper.
Sorry but I couldn’t find what size band you where shooting? .6 or .7. I have found that .6 works better with 5/16th and .7 better with 3/18. It helps matching band width with ammo sizes. Thanks for your great vids!!
Absolutely brilliant! With your ingenious striping test, you Sir have demonstrated with just a few strokes (pun intended) what years of mathematical modeling could only hope to grasp at. If I understand correctly, you were pre-stretching the bands with a few warm-up shots before doing the actual test. Good move. I notice that the spread in the measurements within one taper were wider than some of the differences in between the tapers. One way to perhaps reduce that effect would be to increase the sample size.. to say 10, or 7 as a compromise. May I request 25/20 and 25/15 as these are very popular tapers for heavy bands? As for the third taper to test.. perhaps 24/12. That half width taper brought about a surprise in this video. Maybe it has more to reveal... Thanks for your wonderful video. Subbed 🧐 🤓 😎😄
Thanks for the support my new friend. 25-20 will be done so will 25-15 . I think I will try 24-18 and we can try 24-12 with heavier ammo aswell as we will be going up in band thickness. I will use .8 great white to test these tapers with 9.5mm and 11mm steel. Should be interesting 🤔
20-12 sharpened taper (slingshooting template) gives 220fps with 9.5mm (Sumeike blue) 34inch draw for me with quick release and warm bands great vid vicar.
@@ATOMark i use them exclusively now very soft draw and very fast initial acceleration bsb .70 really rocks and they last very well too if they blow out its at the pouch so no face slapping terror!
You can try the 50% taper and see how it goes. If they are too slow just go up one band thickness. Unless what you are shooting is working stick with it.
Wait a minute here, now you need to try straight bands on both the 3/8 and the 5/16. That should be interesting, and then compare that with the 2 tapers you did here.
Hmm I read tapered make it so that when it breaks, it's nearest the pouch as possible, so that it flies away from your face, it's not just theory, a group I joined, someone posted a broken band, and he seems new cause most of the comments suggesting using tapered bands, I'm new myself so it's also at that time I noticed it's straight. Just with that post convinced me to use tapered bands no matter how much speed I lose, and for that reason, I bought a 40mm tip bow (like maybe gonna try 40-15 taper? lol)
Tapered bands are faster and brake near the pouch which makes them safer. Straight bands will last longer but thats thats it. The only time I have had a band breat at the fork with tapered bands is when it some how got damaged. In my case it had been pinched by something in my pocket.
Great vid... Thanks for your time. Seems to me that your band(thickness) is struggling with the 9.5mm but are more suited to the 8mm.. Great to see how the bands are improving once they warm up.. I shoot 10 and 11mm steels with a 25 to 20 0.8 gzk green and hit the 240 to 250fps mark.. Lately I have started to max out my bands and am getting more fps, I`m just waiting to see how band life is effected over time..
Band life will reduce. It takes a little time to find the Balance between longevity and performance you find exceptable. Once you find what works for you, you will be set.
The smaller bands could not accelerate the heavy bullets o well, because in principle the speed becomes higher the larger the ratio of the dimensions of the bands is. so 25-15 will be faster than 25-18, but if the amount of latex is not sufficient to accelerate heavy ammunition, the principle changes. That is why the 5/16 was faster with the large dimensions. Grat video, i was changing my tapers 1000 of times, went from 25-20 to 25-15 and now back to 25-18 since my bands fail too early, after around 150 shots
@@ATOMark Do you ever heard and test the 'sumeike' brand ? Just wonder how does it compare to the precise. im tried to find the best rubber setup and brand but dont want to order each of it to try, because 2meter rubber roll will be too much for me to use each of it and im now already have the sobang .6 and precise .65 that look like it will take forever to use it all, lol... overall what is your favourite band setup for shooting the 8mm that produce decent speed and performance ?
I have been thinking about this recently. I’m trying to get the perfect balance between speed and pinch weight. Narrower tapers should be faster. I agree with smo that the same tapers with thicker elastic will give the ‘correct’ results with heavier ammo. Trick is, how many shots can you shoot accurately in a row with a heavier draw weight?
This is the thing. I see many people shooting 25-20 tapers for 9.5 and 11mm steel I have proven yhat 25-15 tapeer is lighter draw and faster speed. In my opinion 25-20 tapers should only be used in cold temps when reaching certain speeds are important like hunting. Aside from hunting bands should be made with the lightest draw possible to get your ball down range and hit your target consistently. There is really no reason to max your bands out increase your bands draw weight to target shoot. Getting back to hunting shot placement is most important. Suppose you can get your 9.5mm steel to get to 300fpswith a draw of 14lbs maxed out. But if youbadd 1.5 cm to your active band length your speed would drop to 275fps but with a draw weight of 9.9lbs. You will have a band set that shoots more accurate , plenty fast to take game, lighter draw. And longer lasting bands. Win, win and win! In my opinion! In the end tapered bands can increase draw weight and speed but there is a sweet spot for each ammo size too much taper for heavy ammo will slow it down and so will no taper. By adding and reducing active band length can help fine tune band speed and draw weight to suit your needs.
@@ATOMark Yeah. After watching your video it helped me nail my tapers. I was playing around with tapers for 9mm and 10 mm lead. For the narrower tapers (25/12) I was having to go up band thicknesses so much that it was negating the weight savings.
@@theferalphilosopher-huntin1372 ya I only use 25-12 with some bands for 9.5 or 11mm steel. Some require 25-15 or 18. Lead is much heavier so you may need to mess around until you get the right set up for you. Once you got it you got it and everything just gets better from there.
Thank you for that experiment. Btw have you noticed how many slingshot guys in youtube live next to a really noisy road (gamekeeper, sprave, etc.) There might be a connection...
@@ATOMark strangely I started slingshot shooting when I still lived next to the "Autobahn". The concentration/focus somehow helped. A bit like I imagine meditation to work.
.62 green GZK18/12 8mm are super fast.....thru steel can at 10 mtrs every time...that’s my tester not a chrony......might make a great vid doing the SCT (steel can test)
It crazy it goes against the laws of physics but its right iv found with a 60 and 8 mm steel 23/18 22/15. 20/15 18/12 the 18/12 is normally the fastest
What about 25/10 vs 25/15 vs 25/20 I think the draw weight can also be tested in those tapers, It may be a thing to consider when you want the best performance out of your setup I am currently using 23/12 for 5/16 precise 0.55 bands Thanks for the info ATO awesome video and great shooting
Did you measure the draw weight 24-18, 24-15 and 24-12 for these bands? Based from your test, 24-12 can shoot faster small projectile than big projectile and for 24-18 shoot much more faster heavy projectile than the small projectile..
True tapered and semi tapered are the same thing. Whfm you check the dimensions there is no difference. As for the sharpened tapers I saw only about 10fps difference with the 25-20 template I had. I would like to try this again with a more drastically taper like 25-15 or 24-12 and see.
@@ATOMark Thank you so much. Strange that you would say true tapered and semi are the same. Not to doubt your expertise or mean any disrespect, I just don't see how, can't wrap my brain around it. Visually, you can see the difference when cutting them.
I know . I had this question a while back from bands made with a taper ruler. Both bands were the exact same 24-12 just the very ends were not perfectly straight. I tested them on thr chrony and could not find any noticeable difference.
A wider fork increases the draw length... the bands will be stretched further to your anchor point. Your anchor point will also be lower with wider forks. Hope this helps 👍
When the forks are closer together the band retracts quicker, hence why pickle fork slingshots have a higher FPS with the same rubber setup than a wider fork slingshot.
@@andrewclaxton6446 Must be another example of rubber defying the laws of physics 🤔 If using the same band set, it will be stretched further to your anchor point the wider the forks get? I've never tested this, so would be interesting to see it done.😉
@@ATOMark Hey! how's it going? I don't know how thick the bands you used for this video are, I'm guessing .5 mm or .6 mm, I'd love to know what kind of results you get with the same tapers you used, just testing additionally the 7/16 steel ammo. I normally use .7mm thick bands, 22mm to 18mm taper for this size of ammo. I wish you the best!
I used. 55 bsb for this video. They would be far too light for 7/16. I will be doing a video with 7/16 ammo and testing tapers aswell soon. But for those I will use minimum .65 most likely .7 for that size ammo
darn. i should've paid more attention in HS calculus. If i'd remember some 'till now, I could use some derivatives to find the most optimal taper based on your maximum draw length. >_< However, this video was good enough for me.
It is most likely that the band was too light for 3/8 for maximum speed in that weather. I will do another test with .65 , .70 or .75 with 3/8 and 7/16 steel
I'm lost with all those 3/45 6/34 and those fps... in your video "BSB .45 White Full review and speed test" you were reaching 350.9 fps with ( I forgot ) and 305.6 fps with 8mm steel and now your max speed with 5/16 ( it's 8mm ) is 251 fps !
@@ATOMark I'm new to slingshot, I was thinking the bands will warm itself much more after a few shots. So anti-cold bands works better ? Bellow which temperature the speed decrease so much ? Thanks !
@vincentement usually beads perform best at 20°c + the colder you get there is a drop off in performance. I have found that anti cold bands are kinda a gimmick. I prefer to go up in size when dealing with cold. For example if I shoot .45 or .5 in summer I will shoot .6 or .65 in winter.
The band always breaks at its weakest point the reasoning taper bands is so that they don't break at the forks if the band snaps at the forks it's going to come back and slap you in the face the reason the tip of them is so that if it does break it'll break at the pouch and fly away from your face not to your face
This is real interesting stuff Mark! Thanks for posting! I see that there is a lot of experimenting and testing to be done. And more research as well, being accuracy orientated, I'm thinking that the 5/16 and lighter bands would suit me best. Darn, another project to add to the list - have to make myself a slingshot target box.
Just one thing I want to add. Everyone's shooting styles is different. What works for one may not work for another. I put out information that I have found worked for me. But do your own research and fine tune it to you. You will learn alot and it will make you a better shooter.
Lol I was just thinking whats he talking about.... so I watched the video again. Now I understand. Turns out I am saying "so alright guys" over and over annoyingly fast and it does sound like I am saying sorry. Lol woops..... I won't say it.
Here in Canada we use both and we flip-flop between the 2 all the time. I apologize for that. It is normal for me but I will try to keep this in mind in the future.
It's about the torque vs speed... At the thick end the band pulls hard but slower, which is great for starting the ammo moving. The further toward the thin end, the faster the band is contracting but with less force and that's great for accelerating. Think about car gears, you start in a low gear to get the car moving and as you go faster you use higher (faster but less torquey) gears. A car that is either stuck in 1st or 5th gear isn't going to win a drag race. Similarly a straight band is pushing slower as it contracts but a tapered one can keep applying (at least some) extra force because it is not contracting evenly over the length, which means the ammo is correctly "powered" torque wise for a more of it's journey beween the pouch and forks.
I'd like to see 3/8" vs 7/16" (9.5 mm vs 11.1 mm) steel for speed with band sets made from Theraband Gold and GZK Green .80 mm with tapers of 30-20 and 25-20 and whatever else you would like to throw in the tests. Your videos are very useful and an excellent source of real stats -the numbers don't lie. I appreciate how you keep the same type of draw and max out the bands on each test, always factoring in the active length, as it eliminating some of the variables. I just watched a dude test a bunch of bands, anchoring to the side of his mouth, and then to make his point on his favored bandset, he switched to longer bands and a half butterfly draw, which invalidated his comparison. Thank you for NOT doing silly stuff like that and your straight forward presentation!
Every band test that I do I will be maxing the bands out to my draw length. Many people ask me what the active draw length I am useing but that information is useless if your draw length is longer or shorter than mine. I have just started sending people the video I made on how I make my bands. I am thinking many people don't check the elongation of their elastic. I will considder these sizes I will definatly do the theraband as I have some. If I can get my hands on some green I will but I don't want to buy a whole roll of bands I won't shoot.
@@ATOMark Awesome! I bought the GZK from their U.S. outlet on Ebay and I think the only green thickness they had was .80 mm so that's what I bought. I was actually looking for the .66 Green GZK because Gamekeeper John was touting the speed and distance it gave his shots. But I did not want to order directly from China just because it seems to take too long for me. Thanks again!
If you order from GZK directly you will have your stock in 1 week. Maybe 10 days.
And ghe shipping is free if you buy over 69 dollars
I use Snipersling black in both. 7 and. 8 with 9.5mm steel Cut Bands 30 to 20 over 7 in active Band and also 35 to 25 over same Active Band length and get superb power and pure Knock down Energy and am pretty sure im getting over 200 fps would like to think more but no chrony and i do have the problem of short Band life with them mainly snapping near the pouch!
Extremely informative vid👍... once again thanks for taking the time to share your findings.
I prefer lighter faster band set's myself all I shoot is targets.
Your numbers have just confirmed it for me 😉👍
I'm really trying to learn the science behind bands and your videos are awesome for this. Great job with this one.
This is an awesome video, super informative!
The energy in the bands needs to move themselves through the air and the projectile. The heavier ammo is demanding more energy and the thinner tapers can't keep up.
However, for the 3/8 steel, if you cut the same tapers with a .6 or .65 band I would guess the results would be more similar to the 5/16 outcomes you showed.
Yup I think the 5.5 was just too light for fast speeds. I will do another video soon exploring tapers for bigger ammo like 3/8 and 7/16. I will use .65 or .70 for this test.
Is the advisable strategy to keep a taper as the constant and adjust thickness to the ammunition?
No I don't think so. I think there is a sweet spot for tapers and projectile weight. I think you really need to experiment with your bands to find the best fit for you.
@@ATOMark Thank you very much for your videos. If I want good speed for shooting 3/8'' steel, let's say 260 fps and above, what thickness and taper shall I get? With lowest draw weight possible. Thanks a lot.
I had some great speeds with 100% bands. I tested some 18-12 .7 indoors and got 255.7fps 20-12 ro 24-12 or 14 will do that and more for sure. I recently did a video of .8 100% in really cold weather and they performed great.
Here is my theory on the results of the different tapers:
The 24-12 has a faster retraction speed than the 24-18 due to the narrower taper. However since it has less band material, there is less mass making it more susceptible to the heavier ammo's inertia. The 24-18 on the other hand might have a slightly slower retraction speed but its heavier nature will be less affected by the heavier projectile. However when you have a lighter ammo the thinner taper is able to stay truer to its retraction speed as there is less inertia to fight through.
I'm just talking out of my ass though I could totally be wrong.
You used fancier words but these results confirmed exactly what I was trying to explain in the beginning of the video. I think you are spot on. Now just to find the right the right taper for 3/8 and 7/16
@@ATOMark Awesome and love your slingshot content!
So what's the correct taper for 9.5mm steel?
@@nOObels1 I appreciate that this thread is a year old, but this is from John Webb’s (Gamekeeper John) UK website;
SINGLE GZK GREEN 0.66mm THICK TAPERED FROM 25mm to 20mm
SINGLE SNIPERSLING YELLOW 0.7mm THICK TAPERED FROM 25mm to 20mm
SINGLE THERABAND GOLD TAPERED FROM 30mm to 20mm
DOUBLE THERABAND GOLD TAPERED FROM 20mm to 15mm
Each pack of 3 bandsets gets sent out with 6 thinner strips of elastic to attach the elastic to the Catapult forks!
All bandsets suit a 9.5mm ball best which is John's go to ammo for hunting, John also prefers the GZK green bands and its what he is shooting at now!
@@mikekempe7555 thx man appreciated a ton! I actually went with 25-15 on .7 Snipersling yellow, back down to same taper 100% band in .65.
Really enjoyed this video! A lot of awesome info! Thanks for breaking things down! 👊💥
Thanks brother. I will do another one with heavier bands for steel like 3/8 and 7/16. Soon.
As a beginner this is by far the best channel 👍🏴
Thanks Gary. I'm happy to hear you find the videos useful.
I could see what someone would say the test might be inaccurate but you did the best you had with the tools available. All in all good video and informational idk what’s not to like good job there brother and thanx for the effort in the info I will carry this along. 👍🏼 well done
Thanks man.
Interesting results for sure.👍🏻
Kilker shooting, reviews and also detailed analysis of the more scientific side of things... Slingshot fans who haven't found your channel are sleeping! Good stuff as always
Hey man thanks for the kind words. You have any tapers you would like to see tested for bigger ammo like 7/16 or 3/8
@@ATOMark I currently shoot .6 GZK and am constantly experimenting with my tapers... So in a way I'm testing them myself although not on the chrony. My speed test is how many empty cans the shot will go through! If I get entry and exit with 8mm steel on three cans from about 5-ish meters, I know it will do the job!
@@ATOMark that said, I'd love to see a similar test applied to 10mm lead, another favorite ammo of mine, although heavy
@@ATOMark which elastic are you using for the test?
Bsb .55
I specially came back to check this video. I am using a taper of 25-15 and 20-12. I am experiencing early breakage of my bands at the pouch ends.
I calculated that both the tapers are 40% and as you mentioned you too had the same problem. I understand a broader taper should solve that.
Thanks for your wonderful videos. I knew l will find my answer in your videos. Thank you, God Bless. Wish You A Merry Christmas And A Happy New Year.
thanks for putting in all that work for us. great video, very informative.
25-17 is a nice taper for 3/8. 0.62 gzk green works reely well
I’m looking to try a 24-16 taper for 0.7mm Simple Shot, 31” draw, and 9.5mm ammo. Do you think this will work well? Do you still like your 25-17 taper?
I ised to use 24or 25 -18 but found 25-15 to be faster for 9.5. I use 24-12 for 8mm. I still use 25-15 for 9.5
@@veggie_dog8823 yes still relly nice. Works great
@@ATOMark good to know! I had no idea I could have a taper that large! I’ll have to look into 25-15 more. I was worried all the 0.7mm latex I bought was a bad idea till I saw you use 0.7mm with good tapers and get great results. Thanks so much!
In this video I used .55mm bsb I believe. I almost never shoot .7. .65 is as high as I go usually.
You saved us all alot of work Sir!!!!! Awesome vid......
Thanks buddy. The next video I will post something that will help even more.
Hi Mark, I'm a subscriber and thanks for all your advice. You commented how expensive steel is in Canada. there is a U.S. company: Mc Master Carr with 4-5 locations, it is a huge hardware store. They have low carbon steel balls with reasonable prices. Example: 5/16" 250 pcs $7.76, 11/32" 200 @ $1.85, 3/8" 250 @$11.38 so on... Just trying to help and hope it woks out for you. Keep the videos coming.
Useful knowledge. Thank you.
My pleasure.
great info on the bandsets , very interesting
Thanks brother
Awesome video! Love the way you do science
Lol I'm not really a sciency guy but I gave it a shot🤓
Makes sense. Less rubber, greater tension/stretch, more speed (If my understanding is correct). I guess it’s really all about trade off’s, and personal priorities. More importantly, thanks for the video and for the visual comparison, it really helped me wrap my brain around what’s happening with the taper. I shoot 5/16. Not for any reason particularly. I just bought 1500 of them and realized after how many 1500 really is 😂.
I much prefer 5/16 ammo to 3/8. They became hard to get in my area and the shipping was disgusting so I switched to 3/8 I am looking to switch back as soon as I find a good price I will buy 10000
@@ATOMark That’s actually good to hear. Makes me feel better about my purchase! I’m fairly new to slingshots but I’m already hooked. So much more enjoyable now than I remember as a kid.
I know. I like to shoot everyday. At least 10 minutes. This winter I only shot with clays maybe 2x a week if I was lucky. It brought my accuracy back a little. So I will be practicing in my garage for the next little bit. It is a little closer than 10m but it will still help get my accuracy back on track.
I've just started shooting gzk green cut 20/12 with a 6x stretch ratio and its the smoothest draw I've ever shot barely any draw weight and still pummels through drink cans and out the back with ease with 9.5mm steels
Ya this is my issue with GZK. The recipe has changed a couple times. The first batch I got was like what you have. Then the change. The elongation went to 5.5 and very heavy. From what younare telling me they went back to the original recipe. They used to be my favorite bands. I still have some .5, .54, .66 at home. I may need to order another roll soon and give them a try. I really hope the stabilize the bands from batch to batch. I would go back to gzk bands.
@@ATOMark yeah I definitely agree there! Have had some inconsistencies with gzk! I hadn't shot for around 6 months and starting again with my anti cold was like trying to stretch a set of boot laces 🤣 this green was a sample from a really old order that I never tried, I'll see if the new roll I've ordered matches up and let you know!
Excellent Video cheers An Arcane subject for most but highly informative for the rest of us Funnily enough i was having similar problems with Bands Snapping after a few shots ..Sometimes as few as 20 ! ..always near the pouch and with both GZK Black And Snipersling ( which i prefer to GZK) i use both .7 and. 8 with 3/8 Steel..Think maybe im using too much Elastic !..But saying that I get some Excellent Power straight through a Baked Beans tin at 20 yds comfortably ( when i hit it!) I was cutting them at 35 tapered to 25 mm over about 7 inch active Band length ..Folding the wide end in on itself im sure im getting plus 200 ft per second But ..Interesting and food for thought!
Man I am REALLY liking your channel & your great content & of course I thank you for it. I just recently got back to using slingshots as I am now retired and enjoying my "2nd childhood"!!! I also have gotten into archery and to put those speeds in a comparable perspective...a 45lb draw weight bow & a 300gr. arrow gives you somewhere between 160 -170 fps...a 50lb draw weight bow will get you around 170- 180 fps with same arrow...these are approximate speeds but pretty close as different set ups and strings will alter just what speeds you will get. Just a little input so you slingers out there can get an idea of just how well the band's of today perform in comparison to the sport of archery...the form & repeatedability are pretty much identical in both shooting sports...friends and neighbors of mine seem to be quite surprised that I use the same style of shooting for slingers & bows...some almost cringe when they see my draw length on a slinger is the same as a bow...makes perfect sense to me.I have always enjoyed the shooting sports and have an extensive collection of air guns also...when you retire you will find it hard to have more fun than I do...so, at the very least, get yourself a good slinger when you retire and have a blast.If you are into air guns those metal sculptured lawn decorations make awesome air gun targets for plinking in the bush or anyplace else you can shoot outside. To my surprise, those light metal lawn decorations will take hits at even 10 yards from a high powered air rifle shooting .22 slugs!!! They don't do so well with steel ball from a flipper though!!! Hahaha!!!
Leo, Seems we are on the exact same page... retired, back to slingshots, archery and a large collection of airguns 😀 My wife says that I am in my second childhood but really I'm still in my first and clinging to it desperately LOL!
Really interesting stuff & well done! Do the different tapers max out at the same length? & do you find a difference in accuracy? Great stuff again Mark, cheers
The active band length were the same and they all seemed to stop at the same spot. Yes I shot the 24-12 better than all the rest, in the warm up and the chrony test even though I am just putting the fork on target not aiming through the chrony. I believe this is due to the draw weight. Easier to hold, less hand fatigue and lighter smoother draw will give you better accuracy.
That really explains a lot, very interesting video.
Thanks man
Really interesting and informative video thanks 👍
Thanks brother I will try to find a good taper for 3/8 and 7/16
What did your study come to on the next video for this?
Love your videos and your work buddy .
Interesting stuff... 👍
Stay safe keep up the good work dude 👍
Thanks man. You too.
Thank you, so much.
I'm getting into slingshot shooting but I have no clue where to start in order to find the taper for my bands. What taper configurafion would you recommend to start with, I'm shooting 1/4 Steel ammo with 18 to 12 taper but my bands are not lasting at all. I will appreciate any help or advice
The acceleration will be limited by the lowest spring rate to weight ratio. Spring rate being proportional to band width for constant thickness bands. Say the ball and pouch weigh 150 grains, and the weight of the active bands weigh 50 grains. The taper ratio for best acceleration would be 150 over 200 or 18mm and 24mm. If the ball and pouch drop to 50 grains with 50 grain band weight, it would seem the optimum taper for maximum speed would be 50 over 100 or 12mm and 24mm. The lighter the projectile, the more the taper. Note that the above was based on a constant bandweight per length of band. When you taper the band, that changes the assumption, and you could do more fine tuning, but you end up with a curve rather than a straight taper.
Sorry but I couldn’t find what size band you where shooting? .6 or .7. I have found that .6 works better with 5/16th and .7 better with 3/18.
It helps matching band width with ammo sizes. Thanks for your great vids!!
These were bsb.55
Absolutely brilliant! With your ingenious striping test, you Sir have demonstrated with just a few strokes (pun intended) what years of mathematical modeling could only hope to grasp at.
If I understand correctly, you were pre-stretching the bands with a few warm-up shots before doing the actual test. Good move. I notice that the spread in the measurements within one taper were wider than some of the differences in between the tapers. One way to perhaps reduce that effect would be to increase the sample size.. to say 10, or 7 as a compromise.
May I request 25/20 and 25/15 as these are very popular tapers for heavy bands? As for the third taper to test.. perhaps 24/12. That half width taper brought about a surprise in this video. Maybe it has more to reveal... Thanks for your wonderful video. Subbed 🧐 🤓 😎😄
Thanks for the support my new friend. 25-20 will be done so will 25-15 . I think I will try 24-18 and we can try 24-12 with heavier ammo aswell as we will be going up in band thickness. I will use .8 great white to test these tapers with 9.5mm and 11mm steel. Should be interesting 🤔
@@ATOMark Most definitely. Wonderful plan :)
Thanks for the very informative video bro... 👍👍👍
My pleasure man
20-12 sharpened taper (slingshooting template) gives 220fps with 9.5mm (Sumeike blue) 34inch draw for me with quick release and warm bands great vid vicar.
I have not tried the sharpened tapers yet. How are they?
@@ATOMark i use them exclusively now very soft draw and very fast initial acceleration bsb .70 really rocks and they last very well too if they blow out its at the pouch so no face slapping terror!
I will need to put an order in.
@@ATOMark You will not regret it !
You are fantastic!!
Thanks man
very cool.
Excellent vid, my brain is spinning😀, my catty only has fork tips of 20mm but I’ll work something out only tried 18/12 so far
You can try the 50% taper and see how it goes. If they are too slow just go up one band thickness. Unless what you are shooting is working stick with it.
Wait a minute here, now you need to try straight bands on both the 3/8 and the 5/16. That should be interesting, and then compare that with the 2 tapers you did here.
Great test ATO , very interesting light ammo = bigger taper percentage.
Hmm I read tapered make it so that when it breaks, it's nearest the pouch as possible, so that it flies away from your face, it's not just theory, a group I joined, someone posted a broken band, and he seems new cause most of the comments suggesting using tapered bands, I'm new myself so it's also at that time I noticed it's straight. Just with that post convinced me to use tapered bands no matter how much speed I lose, and for that reason, I bought a 40mm tip bow (like maybe gonna try 40-15 taper? lol)
Tapered bands are faster and brake near the pouch which makes them safer. Straight bands will last longer but thats thats it. The only time I have had a band breat at the fork with tapered bands is when it some how got damaged. In my case it had been pinched by something in my pocket.
That was really interesting.
Thanks man.
That's the ammo I'm shooting now 5/16 steel so that's what taper I'm gonna go with. Could I use 24- 12 also for 3/8 ammo also.
Great vid... Thanks for your time.
Seems to me that your band(thickness) is struggling with the 9.5mm but are more suited to the 8mm..
Great to see how the bands are improving once they warm up.. I shoot 10 and 11mm steels with a 25 to 20 0.8 gzk green and hit the 240 to 250fps mark.. Lately I have started to max out my bands and am getting more fps, I`m just waiting to see how band life is effected over time..
Band life will reduce. It takes a little time to find the Balance between longevity and performance you find exceptable. Once you find what works for you, you will be set.
whats your taper -- 25-12 on 0.8mm bands?
@@ATOMark what's the band thickness used in this video please?
.55 bsb
@@ATOMark Thanks for the reply. I shoot 0.7 SSB, 25-15 taper for 9.5mm steel. Do you think this is overkill for my ammo?
The smaller bands could not accelerate the heavy bullets o well, because in principle the speed becomes higher the larger the ratio of the dimensions of the bands is. so 25-15 will be faster than 25-18, but if the amount of latex is not sufficient to accelerate heavy ammunition, the principle changes. That is why the 5/16 was faster with the large dimensions.
Grat video, i was changing my tapers 1000 of times, went from 25-20 to 25-15 and now back to 25-18 since my bands fail too early, after around 150 shots
That's why I used my tapers as well. The way around this is add 1/2 cm to your active band length and it should add some longevity.
What taper you think i should cut for my 20mm fork ? i will using .65 precise and shooting 5/16 ball,. are 20/12 will be faster than 20/15 ?
I would use 18-12. It might be a fun experiment to try 15-10 just to see what the longevity would be like. Usually I set up with 18-12.
@@ATOMark Do you ever heard and test the 'sumeike' brand ? Just wonder how does it compare to the precise. im tried to find the best rubber setup and brand but dont want to order each of it to try, because 2meter rubber roll will be too much for me to use each of it and im now already have the sobang .6 and precise .65 that look like it will take forever to use it all, lol... overall what is your favourite band setup for shooting the 8mm that produce decent speed and performance ?
@@harisyoung4110 snipersling yellow .50 and simpleshot .50 are my go to bands.
very interesting video
Thanks man
I have been thinking about this recently. I’m trying to get the perfect balance between speed and pinch weight.
Narrower tapers should be faster. I agree with smo that the same tapers with thicker elastic will give the ‘correct’ results with heavier ammo.
Trick is, how many shots can you shoot accurately in a row with a heavier draw weight?
This is the thing. I see many people shooting 25-20 tapers for 9.5 and 11mm steel I have proven yhat 25-15 tapeer is lighter draw and faster speed. In my opinion 25-20 tapers should only be used in cold temps when reaching certain speeds are important like hunting. Aside from hunting bands should be made with the lightest draw possible to get your ball down range and hit your target consistently. There is really no reason to max your bands out increase your bands draw weight to target shoot. Getting back to hunting shot placement is most important. Suppose you can get your 9.5mm steel to get to 300fpswith a draw of 14lbs maxed out. But if youbadd 1.5 cm to your active band length your speed would drop to 275fps but with a draw weight of 9.9lbs. You will have a band set that shoots more accurate , plenty fast to take game, lighter draw. And longer lasting bands. Win, win and win! In my opinion! In the end tapered bands can increase draw weight and speed but there is a sweet spot for each ammo size too much taper for heavy ammo will slow it down and so will no taper. By adding and reducing active band length can help fine tune band speed and draw weight to suit your needs.
@@ATOMark Yeah. After watching your video it helped me nail my tapers. I was playing around with tapers for 9mm and 10 mm lead. For the narrower tapers (25/12) I was having to go up band thicknesses so much that it was negating the weight savings.
@@theferalphilosopher-huntin1372 ya I only use 25-12 with some bands for 9.5 or 11mm steel. Some require 25-15 or 18. Lead is much heavier so you may need to mess around until you get the right set up for you. Once you got it you got it and everything just gets better from there.
Thank you for that experiment. Btw have you noticed how many slingshot guys in youtube live next to a really noisy road (gamekeeper, sprave, etc.) There might be a connection...
I think there is. Lol it is really annoying. For some reason it is louder on camera than it is in person.
@@ATOMark strangely I started slingshot shooting when I still lived next to the "Autobahn". The concentration/focus somehow helped. A bit like I imagine meditation to work.
.62 green GZK18/12 8mm are super fast.....thru steel can at 10 mtrs every time...that’s my tester not a chrony......might make a great vid doing the SCT (steel can test)
I should do a penatration test with a slingshot. Could be fun.
@@ATOMark you can record the sound decibels from impact on a phone app.....might be a nice novelty
Maybe. I will have to find a way to protect my phone from ricochet though.
@@ATOMark absolutely....maybe right under the steel can might be a good location??🧐🧐
22-18 taper is what I use. I would like to know ha fast and best ammo size, if you could. “Thank you”, Jim Payne, Charlotte,NC.
It crazy it goes against the laws of physics but its right iv found with a 60 and 8 mm steel 23/18 22/15. 20/15 18/12 the 18/12 is normally the fastest
I think you should test 24 straight band & let's see the difference vs a 24 -18 & a 24 - 20 with 3/8" & 7/16" steel
I have done a straight band vs tapered band video somewhere. Tapered band was much faster but the straight cut band lasted longer.
What about 25/10 vs 25/15 vs 25/20
I think the draw weight can also be tested in those tapers, It may be a thing to consider when you want the best performance out of your setup
I am currently using 23/12 for 5/16 precise 0.55 bands
Thanks for the info ATO awesome video and great shooting
Sounds good. I will see if I can get some draw weights next time around.
Most useful channel for slingshot lovers~
Thanks man
Did you measure the draw weight 24-18, 24-15 and 24-12 for these bands? Based from your test, 24-12 can shoot faster small projectile than big projectile and for 24-18 shoot much more faster heavy projectile than the small projectile..
I did not measure but there is a noticeable difference between the draw weights. The 24-12 is lighter than the 24-18
so what's the difference and What is the effect on speed with true tapered vs semi ( once side flat ) tapered vs Sharpened Taper?
True tapered and semi tapered are the same thing. Whfm you check the dimensions there is no difference. As for the sharpened tapers I saw only about 10fps difference with the 25-20 template I had. I would like to try this again with a more drastically taper like 25-15 or 24-12 and see.
@@ATOMark Thank you so much. Strange that you would say true tapered and semi are the same. Not to doubt your expertise or mean any disrespect, I just don't see how, can't wrap my brain around it. Visually, you can see the difference when cutting them.
I know . I had this question a while back from bands made with a taper ruler. Both bands were the exact same 24-12 just the very ends were not perfectly straight. I tested them on thr chrony and could not find any noticeable difference.
Be interesting to see 11mm steel with 30-20. 25-20 and 28-18
Precise Golden 0.90,taper 24 -19 with a 14.5.cm active band length, Slingshot ttf 55mm fork gap, 8.4mm lead @ 265fps 👍
Whats the elongation on that rubber?
@@ATOMark 80cm 👍
@@ATOMark Pickle fork slingshots have the fastest band retraction speed 👍
@@ATOMark 8.4mm lead weighs the same as 9.5mm steel 👍
For heavier ammo use 50% taper but thicker bands .7 or .8 and you will have crazy speads.
Yup I have some testing coming to see with .80 great white.
What taper would you guys go for a. 8 band (bsb white) to shoot 9.5 mm Steel?
25-15 or 12 would do the trick for me I think
I always tapered my bands the same width as my forks
You can. Or make them smaller it will still shoot fine.
is there a difference for narrow forks and wide forks for the same size rubber bands?
I really don't know. I only really shoot 85 -90 mm
A wider fork increases the draw length... the bands will be stretched further to your anchor point. Your anchor point will also be lower with wider forks. Hope this helps 👍
When the forks are closer together the band retracts quicker, hence why pickle fork slingshots have a higher FPS with the same rubber setup than a wider fork slingshot.
@@andrewclaxton6446 Must be another example of rubber defying the laws of physics 🤔 If using the same band set, it will be stretched further to your anchor point the wider the forks get? I've never tested this, so would be interesting to see it done.😉
Well done, man! Please try 7/16ammo.
I will do you have any ideas for tapers to try?
@@ATOMark Hey! how's it going?
I don't know how thick the bands you used for this video are, I'm guessing .5 mm or .6 mm, I'd love to know what kind of results you get with the same tapers you used, just testing additionally the 7/16 steel ammo.
I normally use .7mm thick bands, 22mm to 18mm taper for this size of ammo.
I wish you the best!
I used. 55 bsb for this video. They would be far too light for 7/16. I will be doing a video with 7/16 ammo and testing tapers aswell soon. But for those I will use minimum .65 most likely .7 for that size ammo
Can you tell me, is green GZK latex faster than orange GZK?
I will test green and orange .66 soon.
Thx man👍! I've just subscribed to your channel! 😀
Interesting
Im shotng 15-10 0.62 green gzk for 8mm steel perfect for 10-15 m target practise
darn. i should've paid more attention in HS calculus. If i'd remember some 'till now, I could use some derivatives to find the most optimal taper based on your maximum draw length. >_< However, this video was good enough for me.
25x19
Slingshot bands retract quicker with a smaller fork gap.
So, it seems like extreme tapers are good for light ammo but for heavier ammo moderate taper gives better results 🤔
It is most likely that the band was too light for 3/8 for maximum speed in that weather. I will do another test with .65 , .70 or .75 with 3/8 and 7/16 steel
@@ATOMark yeah! That's a good idea 👍.
25 #15 with 10 mm lead my favorate
What band thickness do you use for 10mm lead?
23 /15 taper
I'm lost with all those 3/45 6/34 and those fps... in your video "BSB .45 White Full review and speed test" you were reaching 350.9 fps with ( I forgot ) and 305.6 fps with 8mm steel and now your max speed with 5/16 ( it's 8mm ) is 251 fps !
It was winter when I tested this band. And it was pretty cold. Bands slow down in cold temps
@@ATOMark I'm new to slingshot, I was thinking the bands will warm itself much more after a few shots. So anti-cold bands works better ? Bellow which temperature the speed decrease so much ? Thanks !
@vincentement usually beads perform best at 20°c + the colder you get there is a drop off in performance. I have found that anti cold bands are kinda a gimmick. I prefer to go up in size when dealing with cold. For example if I shoot .45 or .5 in summer I will shoot .6 or .65 in winter.
The band always breaks at its weakest point the reasoning taper bands is so that they don't break at the forks if the band snaps at the forks it's going to come back and slap you in the face the reason the tip of them is so that if it does break it'll break at the pouch and fly away from your face not to your face
You are right Bob, but tapered bands are also faster. You can have the same active band length with different tapers and achieve different speeds.
why you say sorry? your videos are great !!
I prefer to go out and do different things. I don't want to give you guys the same thing too many times in a row. I don't want you to get bored.
@@ATOMark Perfect, but do not be sorry !!
You got it.
I think with a .55 latex and 8mm/5/16 ammo a slimmer taper is faster. Like 18.10 , 18.12
Cheers Sis ❤
This is real interesting stuff Mark! Thanks for posting! I see that there is a lot of experimenting and testing to be done. And more research as well, being accuracy orientated, I'm thinking that the 5/16 and lighter bands would suit me best. Darn, another project to add to the list - have to make myself a slingshot target box.
Just one thing I want to add. Everyone's shooting styles is different. What works for one may not work for another. I put out information that I have found worked for me. But do your own research and fine tune it to you. You will learn alot and it will make you a better shooter.
Is he saying "sorry" all the time? Why?
Lol I was just thinking whats he talking about.... so I watched the video again. Now I understand. Turns out I am saying "so alright guys" over and over annoyingly fast and it does sound like I am saying sorry. Lol woops..... I won't say it.
@@ATOMark ❤
Very confusing. Why not use the metric system for all measurements!
Here in Canada we use both and we flip-flop between the 2 all the time. I apologize for that. It is normal for me but I will try to keep this in mind in the future.
25/20 taper
I did a video useing a 25-20 taper with .8 great white. And they are slow. I much prefer 25-15 it is a much faster taper
Dood it's a Fucking slingshot with ARobber bend! It's NOT a Gun fire Arme😂
Take it easy 😊