@@gunnercuppetilli7865 The diverter is still in full working order. No leaks. The only issue I have with it is that there is no 'release' function. So minutes after you've turned off the shower, it will start to relieve the pressure and dump any remaining water into the tub. But you get used to that.
3yrs later.... you're still helping DIYers..... Running through your videos before I start new parts of my bath project. (Down to studs.... uhh now what?! 🤔) new subr 👍🏻 appreciate your channel.
@@coolhandryan even a plumber (maybe he is certified?), had to learn somehow, someway...pretty good as a first attempt, learning immed. from your mistakes on your "first surgery." You'll only get better.
I knew this was going to be the perfect video, when you said installing the shower/diverter valve would be so stressful. I've been freaking out on how I was going to do a very similar project. I also plan my work then work my plan. Valve stick out is ctritcal. Shark bite caps is a good idea, I was going to use ball valves, not now. I'll also use threaded fittings into the shhower/diverter valve, I doubt I'll use the pipe dope and go with teflon tape instead, I make a mess with the pipe dope. Fire blanket and extinguisher are good deals. Today I'll get the outstanding items needed, install the shark bite caps and begin the shower/diverter valve set up. All goes well today, I'll solder it up tomorrow. Thanks Cool Hand.......
Great video. All good tips especially being aware of heat transfer when soldering. I always use yellow gas Teflon tape on everything and never have a leak. I know some people will carry on about how you should use blue or white but yellow has worked for me. I asked the plumbing supply warehouse about this and they said its the best tape out there and no one wants leaks.
An old plumber explained that the solder flows toward the heat. Once you get the joint hot, hold the flame on one side and the solder on the opposite side.
I would suggest putting the flame at the very end of those female adaptors, and even male adaptors when soldering. That way you know it sucks up in there all the way to the back of the fitting.
Like your film and bg sounds, which are low enough, not distracting, Hendrix-y. The reason no to attach the elbow to the chipboard...if there's a room behind it, the wall could be demolished and the pipes suffer. If it's house siding, same but add in potential settling issues may drag the pipe around. It would do better with bespoke blocking, IMHO
It was good to watch your video. I especially liked the fact that you found a leak or two on your first test. That's probably something that most DIY guys encounter. I did wonder if you didn't consider using pex instead of copper. It just seems easier to work with.
Thanks! I never considered pex because it is another form of plastic and I prefer running water through copper and brass. I'm sure the water will come in contact with plenty of plastic by the time it is released, but I just prefer copper. And it's more fun really. 🤣
On my copper x female adapters , ( where the leak occurred ) I always use teflon tape over the pipe doped male threads . it's belt and suspenders . I use Teflon pipe dope as well .
you need a heat sink that draws the heat away from the plastic fitting like cold wet rags or a tray of cold water. this will keep the plastic piece from most likely melting
Also..leaving a valve or hose open a little prevents it from building pressure before taking off the caps if as he said the main valve doesn't close 100%. In this case u may get wet but on higher pressure systems including air..it could save your life.
I want to see the shower work. I can't believe most showers don't have a water volume control. I'd rather have a shower made 70 years ago than the modern showers. Totally lame not to have a water volume control.
Indeed, they don't make fixtures like they used to. The lever system in this video does control the amount of water that travels through the shower head/rain fall. But there is not an adjustment to control the amount of water let to the valve.
Can you solder the brass coupling/thread in lieu of using a sealant or tape? I can never seem to get the threaded coupling tight enough on the diverted.
If you use MAP gas it will get hot enough. But, as you'll see in the video, if you don't remove all of the plastic and rubber pieces from the fixture they will potentially be compromised by the heat. That's why I used the sealant.
I’m installing a shower system with the same water value. When you say “stick out an inch from the stud” are you referring to the start of that plastic cover piece? I.E. the value should be mounted with the plastic cover sticking out an inch from the stud?
Whatever that means for your measurements. For me it was it was about an inch from the stud. See 11:38 in the video where I'm measuring from the face of the stud (after you've furred out any studs that are not flush) to the face of the mud plate, using a level. 1/2" backer board, ~quarter inch mud, and 1/4" tile.
Great video👍 I’m doing a kohler 3way diverter which makes it possible to run the raindrop shower head and handle spray showerhead simultaneously. Do you think 1/2 copper is sufficient?
Hey James. I’m pretty sure 1/2” pipe is fine, really depends on your water pressure and the female connection size on the valve. But 1/2” is standard. Thats what I’d do.
@@coolhandryan I spoke to kohler and they ran looked up the showerhead I was using and say 1/2 is fine. Also inside the mixing valve and the diverter the holes are equivalent to 1/2 copper so I’m not sure how much 3/4 would help. But good to also get same answer from you. Thanks a lot👍🇺🇸
@@coolhandryan JLitt-us4vs mentions using a raindrop shower head "and" the handle spray showerhead "simultaneously". Several diverters on the market come with 3/4 inlets. Using shower head or the other will work fine with standard 1/2" but using both "simultaneously you would benefit from 3/4. The restriction caused by a smaller pipe or a much smaller opening delivers a perceived increase in water pressure, like putting your finger over the end of a garden hose, but in reality the gallons per minute remains the same. NET: If a home has sufficient water pressure, moving up to 3/4 pipe will not change the water pressure, just the available volume delivered.
Good stuff, Brian. Best of luck with your remodel! If you search Amazon for B07PYSGWJ9 then the shower faucet set should come up. Remember that I used a different layout for mine and it required a few other pieces that I used in the video. Let me know how it goes! & thanks for hitting that like button and subscribing, helps a ton.
The only on/off toggle I know of is the diverter itself. When you turn the water on, it will start to come out of the flow channel that the diverter is diverting to. There should be a way to switch it from shower, to tub, or rain. Outside of that, I'm not aware of any other way to turn just one or two of the options completely off. Perhaps take a look at the manual for your specific model of diverter. You can often find them online.
@@coolhandryan when I turn the knob for the handheld nothing and then I turn it for the tub nothing. Only water comes from the shower head. I will see if I can find a manual. Thanks.
Question have for you sir if i want to change out old single shower faucet knob that turns on by pushing knob up & down to turn it off though new one i want to get is a handle faucet that pulls out to turn on & push back in to turn off so would i have to change out the whole old valve & install new one for what i want to do therefore would i have to unsolder the old one out of the wall or can existing one work?
Good question, Burt. In my limited experience, each knob and function requires a proprietary valve kit. I think the answer is that you will need to change the entire valve system, which will require some considerable access space within the wall. Do you have access to the valve from the wall behind it? Meaning, can you cut out some sheetrock on the other side of the wall to be able to make the entire swap? Or will it require you to cut out some tile around the old valve and replace that tile afterwards? Or perhaps you have enough access to the current valve by simply removing the plate that hides the present valve? A complete valve kit change is easiest while remodeling the tile entirely. I suppose it is possible that your current valve has a cartridge system that can be swapped out for a new one that functions like the one you described. But I'm not aware of a brand valve kit that allows for such an easy change of mechanics.
@@coolhandryan Yes Ryan its where my daughter lives there is actually a section of sqaure fiberglass plate from what appears in the pic she sent me that I would be able to get behind it most likely by removing the caulking along the edge of it, never seen shower done like this though I will take a run over to home depot tomorrow see what they have & whats all involved would be nice if there is a conversion kit for it by just removing the old cartridge to the other one, thanks for the input on this appreciate it have goodnight God bless
Yeah, there's lots of apps to use for that. Notability is what I use cause it's easy and already on my iPad. It's a good app for annotation and sketching.
I have a 3 way shower diverter made by delta after only 3 years I believe it is leaking and soaking the baseboard has anyone had issues with delta diverters
Hey Andrew. I've not known any issues with Delta, but I'm not a Delta specific dude. In my limited experience, all models from all manufacturers put lemons on the shelf every so often. Purely a numbers game, and you pulled one of the unfortunate odds. It may have been installed in a rushed manner though. Most of the big brands have warranties that will replace a dud like the one you have but you might need to rip it out and send it in. It won't cover the cost of replacement though. Could also be a simple cartridge swap needed.
Hey Aru. Copper pipe is not necessary, I just prefer it over plastic. However, you can use PEX tubing with quick connections. Plenty of RUclips vids out there to explain PEX.
Oh, you mean on the set up scrap tile? Yeah, I don't think I was hitting it for long enough to crack it. All good once it was done, no damage to the table or tile. :)
I think that is mentioned in the video. The gas I was using did not get hot enough to solder to the brass fittings without melting the plastic casing inside.
Can someone introduce a good educational plumbing website for an amateur? I wanna to do something simple in my shower but I don't even know the terminology. I know what I want but I can't buy the things I need bc I don't know their names. English isn't my first language and I'm in a foreign country. I'm going crazy.😖😖😖 I just found out the t fitting and way diverter terms. Not sure what wrench I should use. There's not much space where I'm gonna do the work. I'm not sure if I can do it. I want to place t fitting where the shower hose starts. Then connect the shower to one side and connect another small bathroom shower to other side. I don't know what size t fitting I should buy. do I need bolts too? I feel so stupid and I don't wanna ask my brother bc he keeps saying I don't need it instead of helping me buy the supplies.
Sim, I've only used RUclips and personal experience. Search YT for 'plumbing terms' and see what comes up. And there is really no substitute for actually doing the work. That's where you're going to learn the most. You can also take a couple of pictures/videos on your phone and go into your local hardware store and talk with someone in the plumbing department, they're usually pretty knowledgable and help you with naming parts and tools. Get workin! :)
Definitely. Though I don't show all prep work in the video, mostly I would clean the inside and outside of each pipe. I cut a lot of stuff out of the video to trim it down. But you're totally correct.
@@coolhandryan my dad made me "clean the pipe so I can see myself in the shine." (LOL) The he would clean inside and debur it and have me do it again--and not touch the ends any further (with dirty fingerprints). Flux and go. Whenever I go to fix boiler filters and joints, people comment that their system looks "so shiny and new" (LOL). Hey, I leave things better than when I found them.
@@lathammarek927 some plumbers only us pipe dope “thread sealant” but most us Teflon tap and pipe dope. Without Teflon tape you will most likely have drips..
If you're trucking away on your bath remodel, here's how I did our floor tile:
bit.ly/floortileinstall
Any update on this Amazon diverter? I was told Amazon diverters could potentially leak & to get delta/kohler.
@@gunnercuppetilli7865 The diverter is still in full working order. No leaks. The only issue I have with it is that there is no 'release' function. So minutes after you've turned off the shower, it will start to relieve the pressure and dump any remaining water into the tub. But you get used to that.
Respect that you showed the leak and how you want to fix it , lots of guys would have edited the video and show that part .
Thx, Javier. It's important for DIYers to be honest about the process. Makes it easier for others to overcome.
3yrs later.... you're still helping DIYers..... Running through your videos before I start new parts of my bath project. (Down to studs.... uhh now what?! 🤔) new subr 👍🏻 appreciate your channel.
Awesome! You'll do great.
The line between Plumber and Handyman is definitely evident after watching this guy. He definitely made it harder on himself!
Curious, what would you have done differently, Joshua? Always ready to get better. After all was done, I’m pretty happy with the results.
@@coolhandryan even a plumber (maybe he is certified?), had to learn somehow, someway...pretty good as a first attempt, learning immed. from your mistakes on your "first surgery." You'll only get better.
@@svg001 thanks. It's holding up nicely. Every project is indeed a learning process.
Nice work. I appreciate the fact that you left the leak repair in. 😊
Real life DIY! :)
I knew this was going to be the perfect video, when you said installing the shower/diverter valve would be so stressful. I've been freaking out on how I was going to do a very similar project.
I also plan my work then work my plan. Valve stick out is ctritcal. Shark bite caps is a good idea, I was going to use ball valves, not now. I'll also use threaded fittings into the shhower/diverter valve, I doubt I'll use the pipe dope and go with teflon tape instead, I make a mess with the pipe dope. Fire blanket and extinguisher are good deals.
Today I'll get the outstanding items needed, install the shark bite caps and begin the shower/diverter valve set up. All goes well today, I'll solder it up tomorrow.
Thanks Cool Hand.......
Wonderful mental prep, Marcia. You'll do great work! Thanks for the thought out comment.
Thanks Ryan!
I was looking for a video to explain what I needed to do and yours was it.
Handy man tips rule👍
So glad it was helpful! Thx for watching.
Great video. All good tips especially being aware of heat transfer when soldering. I always use yellow gas Teflon tape on everything and never have a leak. I know some people will carry on about how you should use blue or white but yellow has worked for me. I asked the plumbing supply warehouse about this and they said its the best tape out there and no one wants leaks.
Thanks Oby. Happy New Year!
@@coolhandryan Happy New Year. And stay safe.
Glad I found this. Just in time for me to do mine. Thank you.
Glad its helpful!
An old plumber explained that the solder flows toward the heat. Once you get the joint hot, hold the flame on one side and the solder on the opposite side.
Smart plumber
This is ur student thomas gomez i loved this video very insightful i was able to fix my shower and i did in fact HAMMER that like button
Ok I’m gonna give this a try, thanks coolhand Ryan.
You got it!
Nice video. Don't forget to ream your pipes or you'll get pinholes way sooner than expected. Brushes are only for fittings btw. Keep it up 🤘
Thanks, Agustin. I appreciate your advice. 👊
I appreciate that way you get it done
Thank you, Olbert!
Doing my bathroom and this video really helped. Using pex as I have some crazy turns but overall same concept. Thx.
That's great, John. Best of luck with your project! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Check back in and let me know how it goes.
How did the pex work? Did you use the pex for the shower head?
I would suggest putting the flame at the very end of those female adaptors, and even male adaptors when soldering. That way you know it sucks up in there all the way to the back of the fitting.
Thx jtoker. Good suggestion.
Like your film and bg sounds, which are low enough, not distracting, Hendrix-y.
The reason no to attach the elbow to the chipboard...if there's a room behind it,
the wall could be demolished and the pipes suffer. If it's house siding, same but add in potential settling issues may drag the pipe around. It would do better with bespoke blocking, IMHO
Good notes, AJP.
i like that you showed your F up... most would of edited that out..
Indeed, there were some choice words that got edited out after that fun discovery.
It was good to watch your video. I especially liked the fact that you found a leak or two on your first test. That's probably something that most DIY guys encounter. I did wonder if you didn't consider using pex instead of copper. It just seems easier to work with.
Thanks! I never considered pex because it is another form of plastic and I prefer running water through copper and brass. I'm sure the water will come in contact with plenty of plastic by the time it is released, but I just prefer copper. And it's more fun really. 🤣
On my copper x female adapters , ( where the leak occurred ) I always use teflon tape over the pipe doped male threads .
it's belt and suspenders .
I use Teflon pipe dope as well .
Indeed, Vic. That seems to be the pro way to go. Much obliged.
That feeling putting it all together and then finding a leak in a threaded connection... the worst!
@javaTL IKR. Those are the times you just take your medicine and try to fugetaboutit.
you need a heat sink that draws the heat away from the plastic fitting like cold wet rags or a tray of cold water. this will keep the plastic piece from most likely melting
Thanks, Patrick. Good suggestion.
nice job great style and humor thank you
High five, Steven.
Also..leaving a valve or hose open a little prevents it from building pressure before taking off the caps if as he said the main valve doesn't close 100%. In this case u may get wet but on higher pressure systems including air..it could save your life.
Thanks for adding this, Mike. Much obliged.
I want to see the shower work. I can't believe most showers don't have a water volume control. I'd rather have a shower made 70 years ago than the modern showers. Totally lame not to have a water volume control.
Indeed, they don't make fixtures like they used to. The lever system in this video does control the amount of water that travels through the shower head/rain fall. But there is not an adjustment to control the amount of water let to the valve.
Can you solder the brass coupling/thread in lieu of using a sealant or tape? I can never seem to get the threaded coupling tight enough on the diverted.
If you use MAP gas it will get hot enough. But, as you'll see in the video, if you don't remove all of the plastic and rubber pieces from the fixture they will potentially be compromised by the heat. That's why I used the sealant.
Good video my friend
Much obliged, Jose. Thanks for watching.
I’m installing a shower system with the same water value. When you say “stick out an inch from the stud” are you referring to the start of that plastic cover piece? I.E. the value should be mounted with the plastic cover sticking out an inch from the stud?
Whatever that means for your measurements. For me it was it was about an inch from the stud. See 11:38 in the video where I'm measuring from the face of the stud (after you've furred out any studs that are not flush) to the face of the mud plate, using a level. 1/2" backer board, ~quarter inch mud, and 1/4" tile.
Great video👍 I’m doing a kohler 3way diverter which makes it possible to run the raindrop shower head and handle spray showerhead simultaneously. Do you think 1/2 copper is sufficient?
Hey James. I’m pretty sure 1/2” pipe is fine, really depends on your water pressure and the female connection size on the valve. But 1/2” is standard. Thats what I’d do.
@@coolhandryan I spoke to kohler and they ran looked up the showerhead I was using and say 1/2 is fine. Also inside the mixing valve and the diverter the holes are equivalent to 1/2 copper so I’m not sure how much 3/4 would help. But good to also get same answer from you. Thanks a lot👍🇺🇸
@@coolhandryan JLitt-us4vs mentions using a raindrop shower head "and" the handle spray showerhead "simultaneously". Several diverters on the market come with 3/4 inlets. Using shower head or the other will work fine with standard 1/2" but using both "simultaneously you would benefit from 3/4. The restriction caused by a smaller pipe or a much smaller opening delivers a perceived increase in water pressure, like putting your finger over the end of a garden hose, but in reality the gallons per minute remains the same. NET: If a home has sufficient water pressure, moving up to 3/4 pipe will not change the water pressure, just the available volume delivered.
@@eltonnoway7864 good stuff. I dont use them both at the same time much. But what you’re explaining makes sense.
God job.pex and shark bite, best way to go.
Thanks, George
Great video, it’s going to help me on my remodel. The link to the diverted valve kit doesn’t work. Can you supply me the make and model?
Good stuff, Brian. Best of luck with your remodel! If you search Amazon for B07PYSGWJ9
then the shower faucet set should come up. Remember that I used a different layout for mine and it required a few other pieces that I used in the video. Let me know how it goes! & thanks for hitting that like button and subscribing, helps a ton.
You’re the best good job
Thx miguel
Hi, are there on and off buttons somewhere? My shower head is the only thing that works. No water comes from my handheld or tub faucet.
The only on/off toggle I know of is the diverter itself. When you turn the water on, it will start to come out of the flow channel that the diverter is diverting to. There should be a way to switch it from shower, to tub, or rain. Outside of that, I'm not aware of any other way to turn just one or two of the options completely off. Perhaps take a look at the manual for your specific model of diverter. You can often find them online.
@@coolhandryan when I turn the knob for the handheld nothing and then I turn it for the tub nothing. Only water comes from the shower head. I will see if I can find a manual. Thanks.
What are you rubbing on the pipe and before you heat up the elbow joint?
Its called flux for soldering copper pipe.
Question have for you sir if i want to change out old single shower faucet knob that turns on by pushing knob up & down to turn it off though new one i want to get is a handle faucet that pulls out to turn on & push back in to turn off so would i have to change out the whole old valve & install new one for what i want to do therefore would i have to unsolder the old one out of the wall or can existing one work?
Good question, Burt. In my limited experience, each knob and function requires a proprietary valve kit. I think the answer is that you will need to change the entire valve system, which will require some considerable access space within the wall. Do you have access to the valve from the wall behind it? Meaning, can you cut out some sheetrock on the other side of the wall to be able to make the entire swap? Or will it require you to cut out some tile around the old valve and replace that tile afterwards? Or perhaps you have enough access to the current valve by simply removing the plate that hides the present valve? A complete valve kit change is easiest while remodeling the tile entirely. I suppose it is possible that your current valve has a cartridge system that can be swapped out for a new one that functions like the one you described. But I'm not aware of a brand valve kit that allows for such an easy change of mechanics.
@@coolhandryan Yes Ryan its where my daughter lives there is actually a section of sqaure fiberglass plate from what appears in the pic she sent me that I would be able to get behind it most likely by removing the caulking along the edge of it, never seen shower done like this though I will take a run over to home depot tomorrow see what they have & whats all involved would be nice if there is a conversion kit for it by just removing the old cartridge to the other one, thanks for the input on this appreciate it have goodnight God bless
Good teacher
Thanks Jonhenry! I appreciate you taking the time to post that comment. Good stuff.
Where can I buy these 3 way out put mixer in AUS??
Maybe search Amazon for a 3-way valve diverter? They’ll have some online someplace.
Awesome 👏🏼
Thanks!
Water pipes in an exterior wall?
San Diego climate can be beneficial.
I’m installing one for a customer (different model) and nothing is coming out at all! Never had this happen. Is it a water pressure issue?
Hard to tell without being there to help troubleshoot. Is it possible that the screws are shut on the hot and cold inlets on the valve?
Can't you do that same drawing using your I Pad without an app?
Yeah, there's lots of apps to use for that. Notability is what I use cause it's easy and already on my iPad. It's a good app for annotation and sketching.
What is the iPad App name you were using ?
Notability
I have a 3 way shower diverter made by delta after only 3 years I believe it is leaking and soaking the baseboard has anyone had issues with delta diverters
Hey Andrew. I've not known any issues with Delta, but I'm not a Delta specific dude. In my limited experience, all models from all manufacturers put lemons on the shelf every so often. Purely a numbers game, and you pulled one of the unfortunate odds. It may have been installed in a rushed manner though. Most of the big brands have warranties that will replace a dud like the one you have but you might need to rip it out and send it in. It won't cover the cost of replacement though. Could also be a simple cartridge swap needed.
Хорошая работа
Thank you!
Decent
Thanks Carlos
Do you have to use copper pipe?
Hey Aru. Copper pipe is not necessary, I just prefer it over plastic. However, you can use PEX tubing with quick connections. Plenty of RUclips vids out there to explain PEX.
Nice
Thanks
better to wrap with teflon glad the tile did not explode
I use teflon but exclusively on reachable fittings. Curious, why and how would the tile explode?
Oh, you mean on the set up scrap tile? Yeah, I don't think I was hitting it for long enough to crack it. All good once it was done, no damage to the table or tile. :)
Why didn't you just solder the copper into the diverter valve???
I think that is mentioned in the video. The gas I was using did not get hot enough to solder to the brass fittings without melting the plastic casing inside.
Can someone introduce a good educational plumbing website for an amateur? I wanna to do something simple in my shower but I don't even know the terminology. I know what I want but I can't buy the things I need bc I don't know their names. English isn't my first language and I'm in a foreign country. I'm going crazy.😖😖😖 I just found out the t fitting and way diverter terms. Not sure what wrench I should use. There's not much space where I'm gonna do the work. I'm not sure if I can do it. I want to place t fitting where the shower hose starts. Then connect the shower to one side and connect another small bathroom shower to other side. I don't know what size t fitting I should buy. do I need bolts too? I feel so stupid and I don't wanna ask my brother bc he keeps saying I don't need it instead of helping me buy the supplies.
Sim, I've only used RUclips and personal experience. Search YT for 'plumbing terms' and see what comes up. And there is really no substitute for actually doing the work. That's where you're going to learn the most. You can also take a couple of pictures/videos on your phone and go into your local hardware store and talk with someone in the plumbing department, they're usually pretty knowledgable and help you with naming parts and tools. Get workin! :)
@@coolhandryan ok, I will that. and yeah I’m searching more and I’m learning some things... slowly. thank you. I will do this! 🥲😅
No air chambers.
You are supposed to concentrate heat the copper ...not the brass
I’m 💀 you just cleaned the inside of the pipe. You’re supposed to debur it
Definitely. Though I don't show all prep work in the video, mostly I would clean the inside and outside of each pipe. I cut a lot of stuff out of the video to trim it down. But you're totally correct.
@@coolhandryan my dad made me "clean the pipe so I can see myself in the shine." (LOL) The he would clean inside and debur it and have me do it again--and not touch the ends any further (with dirty fingerprints). Flux and go. Whenever I go to fix boiler filters and joints, people comment that their system looks "so shiny and new" (LOL). Hey, I leave things better than when I found them.
@@svg001 your pop had his game down and seems to have made a very positive impression on your game too!
Your trowel was the wrong size for the tile.
But can't knock a diy'er for doing.....
If your solders aren't clean, don't worry, it's in the walls. 😅😂
Happy to report that the tile is still on the wall. 😂 Thankfully.
You have to us teflon tape on your threaded connections.. The pipe dope is just a lubricant it doesn’t make them watertight.. 😒
So what you're telling us is... the product labeled " thread sealant " is actually a lubricant? Interesting
@@lathammarek927 some plumbers only us pipe dope “thread sealant” but most us Teflon tap and pipe dope. Without Teflon tape you will most likely have drips..
The tapered threads form the seal
You do not solder copper pipe to the threads.
no
ever heard of pex
Yes, of course. All of the plumbing in my house is copper and I prefer to keep it consistent.
You are using shark bite, why don't you just use pex to begging with? Why coper?
Hey Juan. I didn't like the idea of showering with hot water that runs through plastic. It's just my preference to use copper.
Have u ever heard of teflon tape?
Yep. Why? ...Oh I get it... that was rhetorical. Super helpful to those reading comments.
IM SICK OF F'n SEEING " NO COAST OWNERS SOLAR " California! I LIVE IN HAWAII & I GOT A BETTER (No Cost) SOLAR SYSTEM...
You're probably referring to ads that YT is running? They are super annoying when they don't hit the right market.