Had the tarantulas as my first pair and the thing i really hated about them was the nasty discolouration of my feet for the next couple of days after using them. So don't by them in blue...
Tarantula has got a softer rubber with better friction (and not durable at all - my pair has been finished in 4 months), but Boreal in opposite - like plastic - my sneakers have got better friction (totally can't be recommended for beginners). And the last model in review - in between.
I recommend against la sportiva taruntulas if you want to keep using them for more than 6 months, mine not only wore down (normal) but the adhesive between the sole and shoe completely failed and started peeling. It's a decent shoe but I found the durability lacking especially since when new you probably have poor technique and will be kicking and sliding on the wall
Two of my friends had Tarantula laces as their 1st shoes, still have them to this day, resoled, in great condition and they climb in them as their comfy shoes. Maybe you were just unlucky.
Black Diamond Momentums are a good shoe. Took me all the way to 5.11 in the gym. I prefer the lace-up model over the Velcro one, as the whole lacing system creates a glove-like fit (this allows for good torque). The Velcro system, while adequate really only has two points of security. The heel cup is not as high volume as other shoes and likely will not slip when you start playing with heel hooks. Durability is pretty good, and when it comes time to decide if you’ll replace or repair, you’ll be on the fence, due to its generally good price.
They were a great beginner shoe for me too. I disagree on the durability though, I burst a hole through the front of mine after around 7 months, the knitted material (a bit like the Boreal) of them although comfy isn’t very robust.
i just bought these today! (velcro) it was between them and the tarantulas, but the tarantulas seemed loose around the heel so i played it safe since im a noob haha
Unparallel Up Mocc were my first pair. Got them at street size (11.5 US) and they fit well but stretched out considerably once broken in. Pretty sure I'd have to go down one full US/UK size if I were to size them to climb anything with a meaningful heel hook but they were incredibly comfortable as is. Currently using Otaki and Python depending on the climb
I started climbing in 93 I got a pair of boreal ace’s I left for the US MARINES after a few injuries and able to find time to get back into climbing and everything is now different lololol when did I become a old man lol
First shoes were Triop Tanga, so much oversized because I didnt wanted to wait for smaller shoes and I took em at my local gym. Then I bought Ocun Jett LU, from those I changed into La Sportiva Otaki, went for tighter fit but still pretty comfy, can still put socks on and climb when its above freezing without getting frostbites lol, so these are my outdoor shoes/allrounder and the last pair I got is Ocun Bullit which I use for indoor lead/boulder (sometimes outside).
Actually I would add Velocity's cousin the Veloce. It's a bit more aggressive, but unbelievably comfortable for such a shoe and I wished I'd had them over my first pair (Scarpa Origin). Now half a year later I've climbed so much and improved so much, I now have to have them resoled and got the Skwama (very similar but slightly more aggressive) as a 2nd pair.
Hiya I got my fisrt climbings shoes, they are scarpa man's velocity and street shoe size is 42.5 and Scarpa's 43 my toes are downwards cramped little bit i can't fully extend them and i think that's better to put force but not great for beginner climbers. Do you think i should still keep it or change it for bigger size. thank you
Went for my first Time and I wear size 14 shoes. Size 15 rental shoes were painfully small. Do any brands out there run big? I'd rather be able to climb all day, theb climb half a day with my foot killing me
My first shoes were Evolv Defy, which I still really rate as beginner shoes - I still have them for circuits on our home board. Since then I've found that Scarpa generally fit my feet well and have a good balance between comfort and performance. My newest are Scarpa Instinct Lace, which I'd definitely not recommend for a beginner, but are excellent all rounders for indoor and outdoor climbing. I'd strongly agree with Matt's comments about sizing and aggression though - buy something comfy that doesn't make you dread wearing them; buying a high-end shoe that's 3 sizes too small on day one will not turn you into Adam Ondra, it'll just make you miserable!
Besides the not so good decathlon beginner shoes, my first proper pair of beginner shoes were the Boreal Joker Lace. super duper comfy and supportive to wear all day
First pair was Scarpa Origins. Outgrew them in a month, slipper rubber that took on a permanent upturn. They are pretty shit IMO. Got a pair of La Sportiva Kubo after that which have held for a solid year now, great shoes!
I bought my first today. I was torn between the la sportiva tarantula and the momentum black diamond. In the end i went with the momentum black diamond, they seem to fit well but havent tried them on a wall yet. The tarantula i couldnt find in the right size, half size over or under unfortunately, although one pair seemed to fit really well ober the front of my feet but were loose around the heel. i wasnt sure if that was by design or not though, so i went with the better fitting black diamonds which were also a bit cheaper. main difference seemed to be the tarantula is slightly curved which i kind of liked as i think it would help with toe placement, and it had a bit of rubber over the big toes too, but i dont really think id need that as im new to climbing anyway. Cant wait to go try my new shoes tomorrow!!
@@sikkerninnguaq6256 yeah, they're decent. But they're the only pair ove ever had and I'm still a beginner really. Probably best to ask someone who has more experience and has used different shoes. Maybe ask some of the people at you climbing gym, or the people who work there what they would recommend?
I found all climbing shoes to be uncomfortable in the beginning. Just try them all on, and get a pair that hurts your feet the least to start with. Once you get used to snug climbing shoe fit (3-6 months of regular climbing), then you can be a better judge of which shoe models you like better.
What normal trainer/sneaker do people recommend for every day wear, for those times you just happto be walking past a building or whatever that needs climbing I wear nike 90 or 1s so far so good🤞 but wonder if anything better out there?
Urban Approach shoes could be worth a look, BD do this well…shop.epictv.com/en/brand/black-diamond-0?f%5B%5D=field_category%3A1010&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A508&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A544&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A509&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A545&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A554&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1073&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A556&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A510&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A562&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1863&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1069&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A648&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1981&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1662
Scarpa Instinct VS, such a good shoe. A bit rough to break in with the toe hook rubber but even after 4 years and 5 resoles they are still going strong and my favorite everything shoe, from indoor lead, boulder to outdoor sport.
I wear 10.5 street shoes (vans), and a size 12 evolv. Couldn’t be happier with the advice in this video. They know what’s up! Comfort is where it’s at
Had the tarantulas as my first pair and the thing i really hated about them was the nasty discolouration of my feet for the next couple of days after using them. So don't by them in blue...
ahhh the smurf feet affect 😀
My first pair of climbing shoes was the SCARPA Inferno’s that I bought in 2003. I LOVED THOSE SHOES!
I am going to just trust ur word on this and not watch the video
Are they good? Would like to know from your experience@@johnsong9615
Tarantula has got a softer rubber with better friction (and not durable at all - my pair has been finished in 4 months), but Boreal in opposite - like plastic - my sneakers have got better friction (totally can't be recommended for beginners). And the last model in review - in between.
I recommend against la sportiva taruntulas if you want to keep using them for more than 6 months, mine not only wore down (normal) but the adhesive between the sole and shoe completely failed and started peeling. It's a decent shoe but I found the durability lacking especially since when new you probably have poor technique and will be kicking and sliding on the wall
Two of my friends had Tarantula laces as their 1st shoes, still have them to this day, resoled, in great condition and they climb in them as their comfy shoes. Maybe you were just unlucky.
Yeah I had the same problem. Part of the sole just didn't stick to the shoe after a couple months
@@Qadow maybe laces are better quality?
So you recommend against excellent shoe, because you got faulty one?
Black Diamond Momentums are a good shoe. Took me all the way to 5.11 in the gym. I prefer the lace-up model over the Velcro one, as the whole lacing system creates a glove-like fit (this allows for good torque). The Velcro system, while adequate really only has two points of security. The heel cup is not as high volume as other shoes and likely will not slip when you start playing with heel hooks.
Durability is pretty good, and when it comes time to decide if you’ll replace or repair, you’ll be on the fence, due to its generally good price.
They were a great beginner shoe for me too. I disagree on the durability though, I burst a hole through the front of mine after around 7 months, the knitted material (a bit like the Boreal) of them although comfy isn’t very robust.
@@jryalls weird. That didn’t happen to mine, but the rubber is definitely in need of replacement
i just bought these today! (velcro) it was between them and the tarantulas, but the tarantulas seemed loose around the heel so i played it safe since im a noob haha
Unparallel Up Mocc were my first pair. Got them at street size (11.5 US) and they fit well but stretched out considerably once broken in. Pretty sure I'd have to go down one full US/UK size if I were to size them to climb anything with a meaningful heel hook but they were incredibly comfortable as is. Currently using Otaki and Python depending on the climb
🙌 thanks fo that!
Oh my...I remember when there were 2...EB's and PA's...then we started getting hi- hystersis...
and Bang went the world...
I started climbing in 93 I got a pair of boreal ace’s I left for the US MARINES after a few injuries and able to find time to get back into climbing and everything is now different lololol when did I become a old man lol
First shoes were Triop Tanga, so much oversized because I didnt wanted to wait for smaller shoes and I took em at my local gym. Then I bought Ocun Jett LU, from those I changed into La Sportiva Otaki, went for tighter fit but still pretty comfy, can still put socks on and climb when its above freezing without getting frostbites lol, so these are my outdoor shoes/allrounder and the last pair I got is Ocun Bullit which I use for indoor lead/boulder (sometimes outside).
nice progression!🙌
Evolv Defy were absolutely brilliant.
indeed, a popular opinion!
Actually I would add Velocity's cousin the Veloce. It's a bit more aggressive, but unbelievably comfortable for such a shoe and I wished I'd had them over my first pair (Scarpa Origin). Now half a year later I've climbed so much and improved so much, I now have to have them resoled and got the Skwama (very similar but slightly more aggressive) as a 2nd pair.
Good call 🙌
would you still recommend the Veloce as a first pair? It's currently around $175 on Amazon, which is a bit expensive for me
Hiya I got my fisrt climbings shoes, they are scarpa man's velocity and street shoe size is 42.5 and Scarpa's 43 my toes are downwards cramped little bit i can't fully extend them and i think that's better to put force but not great for beginner climbers. Do you think i should still keep it or change it for bigger size. thank you
having the same question here! Got any answer of your own after owning them for a time?
Went for my first Time and I wear size 14 shoes. Size 15 rental shoes were painfully small. Do any brands out there run big? I'd rather be able to climb all day, theb climb half a day with my foot killing me
My first shoes were Evolv Defy, which I still really rate as beginner shoes - I still have them for circuits on our home board. Since then I've found that Scarpa generally fit my feet well and have a good balance between comfort and performance. My newest are Scarpa Instinct Lace, which I'd definitely not recommend for a beginner, but are excellent all rounders for indoor and outdoor climbing. I'd strongly agree with Matt's comments about sizing and aggression though - buy something comfy that doesn't make you dread wearing them; buying a high-end shoe that's 3 sizes too small on day one will not turn you into Adam Ondra, it'll just make you miserable!
excellent advice Mark, hope you're enjoying the Instinct Lace !
Besides the not so good decathlon beginner shoes, my first proper pair of beginner shoes were the Boreal Joker Lace. super duper comfy and supportive to wear all day
excellent choice👌
@@dailyclimbing sweet 😊 it took hours of trying on to get to that shoe lol
First pair was Scarpa Origins. Outgrew them in a month, slipper rubber that took on a permanent upturn. They are pretty shit IMO. Got a pair of La Sportiva Kubo after that which have held for a solid year now, great shoes!
i recommend butoras!! so comfy
I bought my first today. I was torn between the la sportiva tarantula and the momentum black diamond. In the end i went with the momentum black diamond, they seem to fit well but havent tried them on a wall yet. The tarantula i couldnt find in the right size, half size over or under unfortunately, although one pair seemed to fit really well ober the front of my feet but were loose around the heel. i wasnt sure if that was by design or not though, so i went with the better fitting black diamonds which were also a bit cheaper. main difference seemed to be the tarantula is slightly curved which i kind of liked as i think it would help with toe placement, and it had a bit of rubber over the big toes too, but i dont really think id need that as im new to climbing anyway. Cant wait to go try my new shoes tomorrow!!
Great Enjoy!!!
Did you try them? I just got into bouldering and i want to get my own pair
@@sikkerninnguaq6256 yeah, they're decent. But they're the only pair ove ever had and I'm still a beginner really. Probably best to ask someone who has more experience and has used different shoes. Maybe ask some of the people at you climbing gym, or the people who work there what they would recommend?
What is the cheapest option ??
I am considering between Tarantula and Zenit as an entry level shoes? Any advice
I found all climbing shoes to be uncomfortable in the beginning. Just try them all on, and get a pair that hurts your feet the least to start with. Once you get used to snug climbing shoe fit (3-6 months of regular climbing), then you can be a better judge of which shoe models you like better.
When I started climbing I thought that climbing shoes need to look Peter Pan-ish. Thats why I chose the La sportiva Mythos
What normal trainer/sneaker do people recommend for every day wear, for those times you just happto be walking past a building or whatever that needs climbing I wear nike 90 or 1s so far so good🤞 but wonder if anything better out there?
Urban Approach shoes could be worth a look, BD do this well…shop.epictv.com/en/brand/black-diamond-0?f%5B%5D=field_category%3A1010&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A508&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A544&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A509&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A545&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A554&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1073&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A556&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A510&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A562&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1863&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1069&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A648&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1981&f%5B%5D=field_product%253Afield_color%253Aparents_all%3A1662
@@dailyclimbing nice, thanks so much. They actually look decent as well. 👌
@@KellySmunt303 yeah exactly they have less of the ‘hikey’ look to them 😁
@@dailyclimbing that's exactly what I was expecting. A "Merrell" 🤣
@@KellySmunt303 😂
Evlov Beta? Methinks there's a double typo in the desc. Wrong spelling _and_ wrong company 0_0
good spot, we'll get that sorted!
I think the tarantulace might be a waste of money imo.
Description says "Evlov Beta" (sic) instead of "Boreal Beta."
Scarpa Instinct VS, such a good shoe. A bit rough to break in with the toe hook rubber but even after 4 years and 5 resoles they are still going strong and my favorite everything shoe, from indoor lead, boulder to outdoor sport.
were they your first pair of shoes? 😎
@@dailyclimbing They were. However they fit my feet very well, in terms of the shape. Just the top of my toes were in pain during the break in.
Can you go over which shoes to buy second? That's where I'm at
Intermediate shoes is coming soon!
Also this one is quite good for intermediate shoes ruclips.net/video/VgoofQ0SffM/видео.html if u need the info now 😁
@@dailyclimbing Looking forward to that video. My first pair were the Tarantula's, and I'm looking to upgrade for Xmas.
Tarantulas where my first
La Sportiva Solutions are the perfect beginner shoe. Just remember to buy a Prana beanie too.
😂 i think a goat-eeee adds half a half grade no? 😀