Dana 44 Wheel Bearing Replacement.

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  • Опубликовано: 1 дек 2024

Комментарии • 16

  • @omabluevenice
    @omabluevenice Год назад +2

    Good job and nice filming.

  • @jeremyhoefs8167
    @jeremyhoefs8167 10 месяцев назад

    This is the video I’m going to use for my 1983 Ford bronco, thank you so much

    • @CarolinaMedia
      @CarolinaMedia  10 месяцев назад

      Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

  • @jfruser
    @jfruser Год назад +1

    Nice job. That wil help when I attack my 1996 4x4's front wheel bearings.

    • @CarolinaMedia
      @CarolinaMedia  Год назад

      Thanks jftuser! Your 96 might have slightly different calipers.

  • @Everyday_Vid-Eos
    @Everyday_Vid-Eos 5 месяцев назад

    Beautifully done!

  • @cryxbaby2250
    @cryxbaby2250 9 дней назад

    My spindle moves in and out when trying to put the last piece back in there?

  • @Alan-uk7kq
    @Alan-uk7kq День назад

    Hey, what was the name of the socket you used to tighten the nut inside the hub? thanks

  • @marshallvanarnhem8856
    @marshallvanarnhem8856 7 месяцев назад

    Great job!

  • @juanmiguelmercante1885
    @juanmiguelmercante1885 8 месяцев назад

    “Great video! 😃 I have a 1981 F-150. Are the bearings the same? Also, do you have the seal number? Thank you very much.”

    • @CarolinaMedia
      @CarolinaMedia  8 месяцев назад

      Yes. If you have a Dana 44 the bearings will be the same. I like Timken bearings: Set 45 and set 37. The seal part number for Timken is 4250. Amazon sells it for $6
      Thanks for the feedback!

  • @lol123321123321
    @lol123321123321 7 месяцев назад

    15 lb/ft is way too much for the inner nut. Torque it down to seat bearings, back off and basically just hand tighten or ever so slightly more with new bearings. When you do the final torque on the outer lock nut it actually preload the inner nut even more. You'll find the rotor very hard to spin by hand if not done correctly and bearings will burn up quick