I'm cleaning up and getting a 1977 F150 short bed 4 x 4 twin tanks. Factory dual exhaust on a 351 modified 400 engine back on the road after sitting for 6 years. Only 1,41000 miles. Most its life as a farm truck in Utah and Arizona. The truck is painfully bone stock with AM FM 8-track player. The rear tank is rusted through but the in-cab auxiliary tank was salvageable. Wanted to thank you for a great video very straightforward and easy to understand. I'm 61 years old retired disabled Marine Corps veteran. And this video has been extremely helpful. It has made working on the Dana 44 enjoyable and easy now that I understand how everything works inside of it. Mostly in my 1985 toyota 4x4 and my xr650r since brand new. I've been dirt biking since 1966. But I'm slowing down thought I'd get something big and comfortable to go 4-wheeling in with AC and power steering LOL. Thanks again for the great video.
Two cents for removing the spindle: wire brush around the studs so crud is not jamming in there when the spindle starts to come off. Then when you whack it with the rubber mallet and it starts to come off, put a small flatblade screwdriver in the crack to use it as a "ladder". Then as you hit the spindle it will "climb" on the screwdriver instead of just rocking back and forth. This was very helpful for me when working on a very tight space with not much room to use the mallet.
This video was helpful. i recently purchased a 75 Cherokee chief with quadratrac full time 4wd. so there is no manual hub, but other than that all parts are the same. thanks.
just came buy to check your preload thoughts on the wheel bearing. glad I did... time to loosen mine up. That is exactly what I thought...too tight is no bueno. but I was also thinking there might be a break-in period for new parts! either way, I will loosen mine up so it rotates more freely.
What i've read and done with my 78 ford hp44 is 35ftlb for the first nut and then 150ftlb for the second nut. seem to have zero issues doing it that way. Great video regardless, keep up the cool videos!
I consulted my Haynes manual for 1980-1996 f-series there are three different numbers in there for that outer lock nut in the wheel hub. one for three different styles of front axle. Just crazy.
OK @BleepinJeep you are officially now on my list of 'never skip ads'. Great work, great detail and entertaining. Want to shoot a followup video here in VT when you do my front wheel bearings in my dana 44 in sub zero temperatures? I'll provide the coffee and beer/BBQ to follow service. :)
It's not as much work as it appears. I can knock out one side in about 20 min. Also I was trying to follow the lowbuck theme that I have going with this truck! Thanks for watching Michael!
Honestly if you keep up with regular greasing, all you need to do is check the seals and add fresh grease. You only need to pull them out to clean them if they’ve gone too long and the grease has dried up. And if that’s the situation I just replace them entirely because a dry bearing wears quickly.
I’m with you on that one. I’d also swap the rotor. It goes against the “cheap truck” thought process, but my shop isn’t as nice as Nate’s. So if I’m tearing something apart, I don’t want to look at again for a nice long time.
Me personally, I fully understand the low buck thing, (been there many times, lol), but on something like wheel bearings and seals, if it's a vehicle I have owned and been thru everything personally then what you have done is fine, but since you have not been thru it yourself, and especially since you did have to replace 1 seal, I would replace every bearing and seal, that way I know what I have, and that is not including the grinding, or scrapping noise I hear when you rotate that without even the brake pads on the rotor that alone would cause me sleepless nights, honestly I hate having a brake down along the highway, let alone on a trail in the backwoods, or worse. Even with everything brand new and installed with the greatest of care does not guarantee nothing breaks, but it is great insurance. Nate I do love your attention to "most" details, lol, and your vids are very well done, (well except for some of that loud music), Cheers
Lol, it's funny to watch how other people pack bearings with grease. I just stick a load of grease on my hand and push it in the narrow end first and then then wide end and just keep alternating until it stops taking it which can be a surprising amount for what they are. It'll be interesting to see how that old reliable engine holds up to a lot more load than was ever intended for it, I think you'll probably want a slightly bigger turbo, nothing too silly but that engine wasn't a beast in the Merc it came out of, that probably doesn't fall in line with it being a budget build though unless you can find a good old truck to pull one off and bridge it on, would be fitting for that stack ;) Good build, looking forward to seeing it get a bit of use.
would you say older vehicles are over engineered or too complicated compared to newer models? these all are brand new stuff to me. i genuinely respect you for knowing that much. cheers and best wishes!
For work station, catching hub parts and keeping lock nuts, snap-rings, and hub guts, I use a 12-muffin baking pan. It doesnt serve dual purpose, BTW. Keeps stuff contained in their own compartment. Those rotors clearly have another few miles in them. Kidding. Those are not cooling grooves.
I thought too much grease was bad? you do not want to drown the bearing just lubricate it or am I wrong? When I do my 44 service I pack the bearings then put a decent ring with my finger around the spindle and hub assembly that's it Just wondering
Really depends on what your doing. On a on road only car that works fine and helps prevent drag. However on something that's going to get taken offroad having more grease in there makes for less room for mud and water. Plus having extra grease around every thing keeps the particulate matter from getting inside the cages and tearing up the bearings. I'm not saying full the whole hub which I have seen. Just that having some extra in there wont hurt a thing
Dirt, grit and other abrasive crud are the enemy of all bearings. Add mineral spirits and a nylon bristle brush to your list of tools & supplies. Even copious amounts of fresh grease won’t lubricate if it’s full of grit.
Yo nate love the comancheep build and I’m always pumped when it’s her turn in the stoplight on the channel but I gotta ask why didn’t you do new rotors and seals while you had it apart? Never mind u answered it later in the video saying it’s routine Maintenance you do once a year
I have a 44 hp and dana 60 i want to rebuild for my yj, but im afraid to go to a 67 wms axle on my weekend cruiser. I really want 33/35s but keep the tires under a set of extended flares.
You can run wheels with a good amount of backspacing and it won't be much wider then you are now. H2 wheels work great. For 33" or 35" tires a 60 is overkill.
@@bradywilliams2666 i know about the h2s. They are getting harder to find. I hoping a 17x8 with about 4 inches of backspacing stay tucked tight. Ive thought about switching my knuckles to 5 lug and running an f150 8.8 in the rear but then i loose my flat top knuckles and the 60 was part of a package deal with the 44 so it will cost more to down grade.
I'm surprised that truck doesn't have an 8 lug. Mid to late 70's truck axles have the 8 lug, dana 60 full float rear and a heavy duty 44 front. In fact, the front 44's on some of the heavy gvw front 44's (some or all 7000, 7600 and 8200gvw) actually use dana 60 thick tubes and larger spindles/bearings, with a 44 diff. A set of 3/4 ton axles would be a great upgrade if you can find a set. Look for "J20" trucks. Just my two cents-which is all I have left after maintaining my personal J-truck :P
"we're gonna squirt grease around it,then we're gonna take our finger and we're gonna rub it ALL 'round in there. Once we're done with that I like to move around to the backside and squirt a bunch there too"--- BJ 2019
I have a question... Are these low pinion axles? I keep getting conflicting info. Im looking for a front axle for a XJ- preferably one that will play nice with a Ford 8.8 (tho I know where a custom spooled 9" w/ disc brakes is just sitting, I just don't want to make a deal on it) Thanks
@@natebleepinjeep9564 Thanks for cleaning that up... I know people have swapped HP-D44s into XJs but I've only eve seen 1 old F150 in the junkyard w/ a HP-D44 still intact, also I hear the Jeep axles are a better fit (not as wide)
Awesome video! Cringed when you pulled that wheel and got under that beautiful Jeep fender without a stand underneath for safety. Would love to see you keep making videos of this quality. It only takes that “one” time for something to fail.
I'am sure that may be a good jack but you really trust your head to it?use a jack stand,also for the sake of another few bucks and a couple minutes just change rear seal and pull bearing and clean and pack it properly,certain greases arn't compatable so they start to break down,you can also put to much grease in hub and cause friction witch will break grease down as well.those bearings still didn't sound real good at the end of all that.
Ok i got a question dose anyone know windrock trails well? And im building a 2003 dodge cummins 6speed for my trail rig will be on 37s. Anyone know if i can wheel it at windrock?
I worked with a man who was a safety instructor and always followed the safety rules to the fullest until one day he did a quick inspection on his wife car without using a jack stand or wheel blocks. She came out to see what was taking him so long only to find the car fell on his head killing him instantly. Please use your stands before posting a video and help save a life. It may be your own Otherwise interesting video.
Why don't you just use the manual's specification? Going by I heard or I've seen someone do so and so isn't a good way of doing things. A manual is a must!
Lol not the best video also u can use snap ring players to to put the lock ring in also u should show how important it is to get the pin in the lock ring if those nuts back off 😬also those bearings are not packed correctly
I'm cleaning up and getting a 1977 F150 short bed 4 x 4 twin tanks. Factory dual exhaust on a 351 modified 400 engine back on the road after sitting for 6 years. Only 1,41000 miles. Most its life as a farm truck in Utah and Arizona. The truck is painfully bone stock with AM FM 8-track player. The rear tank is rusted through but the in-cab auxiliary tank was salvageable. Wanted to thank you for a great video very straightforward and easy to understand. I'm 61 years old retired disabled Marine Corps veteran. And this video has been extremely helpful. It has made working on the Dana 44 enjoyable and easy now that I understand how everything works inside of it. Mostly in my 1985 toyota 4x4 and my xr650r since brand new. I've been dirt biking since 1966. But I'm slowing down thought I'd get something big and comfortable to go 4-wheeling in with AC and power steering LOL. Thanks again for the great video.
Ziploc sandwich bag for packing the bearings is the way to go!
This is the best vehicle on BJ
Let see some video of it driving. etc..
We use a needle for the grease gun to get between the cage and the rollers, seems to work good especially if you're not changing the seal out
Two cents for removing the spindle: wire brush around the studs so crud is not jamming in there when the spindle starts to come off.
Then when you whack it with the rubber mallet and it starts to come off, put a small flatblade screwdriver in the crack to use it as a "ladder". Then as you hit the spindle it will "climb" on the screwdriver instead of just rocking back and forth. This was very helpful for me when working on a very tight space with not much room to use the mallet.
For packing bearings I use a needle attachment for grease gun, it fits behind the bearing rollers so you can easily fill them up without too much mess
Great video! Exactly what I needed to see in order to disassemble the hubs on My '96 F-150.
You just reminded me I need to service my front end. Thanks for a good instructional video!
Make sure you grease the jack too.
Holy smokes that rotor has some mighty large grooves
Been loving the build series of this. Learning a lot along the way. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for the best no BS video online.
This video was helpful. i recently purchased a 75 Cherokee chief with quadratrac full time 4wd. so there is no manual hub, but other than that all parts are the same. thanks.
hey did you see the other 157 comments about no jack stand, yeah we dont need your opinion to be 158
Good call on the D44 socket, its a lifesaver haha. Makes it alot easier!
Always learning when I watch the Low Buck Truck being worked on!!
Thanks man!
Thx again for this mane. I went back to this video a few times over the last couple of years.
Thanks
Look forward to following. I have a new 68 gladiator.
just came buy to check your preload thoughts on the wheel bearing. glad I did... time to loosen mine up. That is exactly what I thought...too tight is no bueno. but I was also thinking there might be a break-in period for new parts! either way, I will loosen mine up so it rotates more freely.
Nate your videos freaking rock!!!!
Thank you!
Great work. Glad you said something about the brake rotor condition 😱
What i've read and done with my 78 ford hp44 is 35ftlb for the first nut and then 150ftlb for the second nut. seem to have zero issues doing it that way. Great video regardless, keep up the cool videos!
I consulted my Haynes manual for 1980-1996 f-series there are three different numbers in there for that outer lock nut in the wheel hub. one for three different styles of front axle. Just crazy.
OK @BleepinJeep you are officially now on my list of 'never skip ads'. Great work, great detail and entertaining. Want to shoot a followup video here in VT when you do my front wheel bearings in my dana 44 in sub zero temperatures? I'll provide the coffee and beer/BBQ to follow service. :)
Thanks Nate, great video as always! I will add this to my stockpile of Jeep knowledge
Great video! I am ready for the first ride in the j10! !
Nate's always got great vids. Thanks Nate!
Thanks!
Watched it on Patreon last great instructions as always Nate
Thanks William!
"The smallest amount" and slight chuckle because he knows what he would have said if it wasn't on RUclips.
In my shop if your caught not using a axle stand you have buy a case of beer.
Maybe its just me, if I was going to go thru all of that I'd do all the seals and clean and repack all the bearings. Why do it twice right?
It's not as much work as it appears. I can knock out one side in about 20 min. Also I was trying to follow the lowbuck theme that I have going with this truck! Thanks for watching Michael!
Honestly if you keep up with regular greasing, all you need to do is check the seals and add fresh grease. You only need to pull them out to clean them if they’ve gone too long and the grease has dried up. And if that’s the situation I just replace them entirely because a dry bearing wears quickly.
@@Bread996 Well It's just that I view Bearings and seals as mission critical and would hate to be stranded on a trail.
Just saying Bro
I’m with you on that one. I’d also swap the rotor. It goes against the “cheap truck” thought process, but my shop isn’t as nice as Nate’s. So if I’m tearing something apart, I don’t want to look at again for a nice long time.
Me personally, I fully understand the low buck thing, (been there many times, lol), but on something like wheel bearings and seals, if it's a vehicle I have owned and been thru everything personally then what you have done is fine, but since you have not been thru it yourself, and especially since you did have to replace 1 seal, I would replace every bearing and seal, that way I know what I have, and that is not including the grinding, or scrapping noise I hear when you rotate that without even the brake pads on the rotor that alone would cause me sleepless nights, honestly I hate having a brake down along the highway, let alone on a trail in the backwoods, or worse. Even with everything brand new and installed with the greatest of care does not guarantee nothing breaks, but it is great insurance. Nate I do love your attention to "most" details, lol, and your vids are very well done, (well except for some of that loud music), Cheers
sweet truck! thanks for sharing. moving up to this axle soon.
When you spin that hub it sounded rough, like you should have replaced the wheel bearings instead of just re-packing them.
Lol, it's funny to watch how other people pack bearings with grease.
I just stick a load of grease on my hand and push it in the narrow end first and then then wide end and just keep alternating until it stops taking it which can be a surprising amount for what they are.
It'll be interesting to see how that old reliable engine holds up to a lot more load than was ever intended for it, I think you'll probably want a slightly bigger turbo, nothing too silly but that engine wasn't a beast in the Merc it came out of, that probably doesn't fall in line with it being a budget build though unless you can find a good old truck to pull one off and bridge it on, would be fitting for that stack ;)
Good build, looking forward to seeing it get a bit of use.
Use a jack stand. Safety first.
Did you see him lay under the vehicle? No need for a jack stand if you aren't crawling under it.
ALWAYS use a jackstand.
@@tomcompoli He meant Safety for the vehicle!
the philips screw comes on the 1968 Ford F150 Dana 44 Reverse Cut with Open Knuckle Kingpin with Warn Hubs.
68’ F100?
would you say older vehicles are over engineered or too complicated compared to newer models? these all are brand new stuff to me. i genuinely respect you for knowing that much. cheers and best wishes!
Older vehicles are easier to work on I think
As for my self, I replace the seals easier to pack bearings and the new seals make sure no leaks.
great video man, you're a life saver
Thanks really good instruction
Great video sure wish you had this when I did my Wagoneer front dana 44!
Nice job Nate...
Thank you!
For work station, catching hub parts and keeping lock nuts, snap-rings, and hub guts, I use a 12-muffin baking pan. It doesnt serve dual purpose, BTW. Keeps stuff contained in their own compartment.
Those rotors clearly have another few miles in them. Kidding. Those are not cooling grooves.
Nice Nice Good jobs👍🏼
Great information and good video production. Keep it up!
Much appreciated!
Ford Bronco have the Philip screws also
Show me you've never hand packed a wheel bearing without showing me you've never hand packed a wheel bearing 🤣
Awesome Video man. Thankyou
I have that same jack.
Nice video brother
Some grooves in that rotor....
*Some* ?
I thought too much grease was bad?
you do not want to drown the bearing just lubricate it or am I wrong?
When I do my 44 service I pack the bearings then put a decent ring with my finger around the spindle and hub assembly that's it
Just wondering
Really depends on what your doing. On a on road only car that works fine and helps prevent drag. However on something that's going to get taken offroad having more grease in there makes for less room for mud and water. Plus having extra grease around every thing keeps the particulate matter from getting inside the cages and tearing up the bearings. I'm not saying full the whole hub which I have seen. Just that having some extra in there wont hurt a thing
Dirt, grit and other abrasive crud are the enemy of all bearings. Add mineral spirits and a nylon bristle brush to your list of tools & supplies. Even copious amounts of fresh grease won’t lubricate if it’s full of grit.
Yo nate love the comancheep build and I’m always pumped when it’s her turn in the stoplight on the channel but I gotta ask why didn’t you do new rotors and seals while you had it apart? Never mind u answered it later in the video saying it’s routine Maintenance you do once a year
My wife and I just bought a 1980 J-10. Would it have the same Dana-44 front axle as your 1982 model does?
I have a 44 hp and dana 60 i want to rebuild for my yj, but im afraid to go to a 67 wms axle on my weekend cruiser. I really want 33/35s but keep the tires under a set of extended flares.
You can run wheels with a good amount of backspacing and it won't be much wider then you are now. H2 wheels work great. For 33" or 35" tires a 60 is overkill.
@@bradywilliams2666 i know about the h2s. They are getting harder to find. I hoping a 17x8 with about 4 inches of backspacing stay tucked tight. Ive thought about switching my knuckles to 5 lug and running an f150 8.8 in the rear but then i loose my flat top knuckles and the 60 was part of a package deal with the 44 so it will cost more to down grade.
Great video. Rotors were horrible. Lol
I'm surprised that truck doesn't have an 8 lug. Mid to late 70's truck axles have the 8 lug, dana 60 full float rear and a heavy duty 44 front. In fact, the front 44's on some of the heavy gvw front 44's (some or all 7000, 7600 and 8200gvw) actually use dana 60 thick tubes and larger spindles/bearings, with a 44 diff. A set of 3/4 ton axles would be a great upgrade if you can find a set. Look for "J20" trucks. Just my two cents-which is all I have left after maintaining my personal J-truck :P
You need to rebalance your audio with headphones on while you're editing, almost all your sound is on the right
"we're gonna squirt grease around it,then we're gonna take our finger and we're gonna rub it ALL 'round in there. Once we're done with that I like to move around to the backside and squirt a bunch there too"--- BJ 2019
If I didn't know better I'd think that quote was from Matt lol
Why did you pull the selector apart? I just leave that Phillips screw in and pull the selector out as one piece.
Just put one of the dana 44 spindal nut driver in my wish list on Amazon. GearWrench 2467. Thanks for the video.
I'm happy I can help!
Why do that. They sell them at part stores for $20
Great informative video!. I have an 88 Grand Wagoneer with Warn manual hubs. Do you know if it will be much different? Thanks for posting this!
Thank you!!
Link to video of how to do the rotors?
I have a question... Are these low pinion axles? I keep getting conflicting info. Im looking for a front axle for a XJ- preferably one that will play nice with a Ford 8.8 (tho I know where a custom spooled 9" w/ disc brakes is just sitting, I just don't want to make a deal on it) Thanks
Yep, these are low pinion. The only high pinion Dana 44s came on Ford trucks
@@natebleepinjeep9564 Thanks for cleaning that up... I know people have swapped HP-D44s into XJs but I've only eve seen 1 old F150 in the junkyard w/ a HP-D44 still intact, also I hear the Jeep axles are a better fit (not as wide)
Talk about grooves in a rotor lmao
Awesome video! Cringed when you pulled that wheel and got under that beautiful Jeep fender without a stand underneath for safety. Would love to see you keep making videos of this quality. It only takes that “one” time for something to fail.
at 9:15 do you have the part numbers for those inner and outer seals? very hard to find thanks!
Can I use a Dana 44 on my 1979 Dodge Ram charger w100 4by4 front and rear ..??
Pack it in
Love this project, such sexy trucks!
What is that ratchet with electric motor?? I need one of these!!!
You didn’t even use a jackstand wow.
Battery grease gun.
Nope, the aftermarket warn hubs don't have that extra screw.
I'am sure that may be a good jack but you really trust your head to it?use a jack stand,also for the sake of another few bucks and a couple minutes just change rear seal and pull bearing and clean and pack it properly,certain greases arn't compatable so they start to break down,you can also put to much grease in hub and cause friction witch will break grease down as well.those bearings still didn't sound real good at the end of all that.
Interesting
right side audio only?
And BTW, I don't think you just wasted your grease. Cuz you sure don't need to replace that rotor. It obviously has a mile or two left in it...
There's seals behind that axle tube, LOL. Oops.
Ok i got a question dose anyone know windrock trails well? And im building a 2003 dodge cummins 6speed for my trail rig will be on 37s. Anyone know if i can wheel it at windrock?
Sure, just stay on the greens and blues.
I worked with a man who was a safety instructor and always followed the safety rules to the fullest until one day he did a quick inspection on his wife car without using a jack stand or wheel blocks. She came out to see what was taking him so long only to find the car fell on his head killing him instantly. Please use your stands before posting a video and help save a life. It may be your own Otherwise interesting video.
He wasn't under the jeep while it was jacked up off the ground. Nothing could have happened to him.
Liked the video! For some reason your audio is super loud in my right ear... Not even on other BJ videos, just yours...
I have that too. It's a common issue with content creators. Please balance your audio/listen with headphones before uploading!
I listen with my left ear bud in at work, it's quiet for me for that ear, sounds like balance issue like Ian said
Please air up that CJ's tire. It's effecting the OCD....
PB Blaster > WD40
Why don't you just use the manual's specification? Going by I heard or I've seen someone do so and so isn't a good way of doing things. A manual is a must!
Sorry, I don't watch for the safety stuff. the jeep truck series had good content. Nice shop.
is it just me or did them bearings sound sooooo dry?
That's not a rubber mallet.
Them rotors look bad why not change them or maybe at least turn them. My 2cents
Get new rotors
Hoping you just doing the video for the sake of showing people I hope you replace those rotors before you drive it
the lighter torques are probably from people who wanna do easy trail repairs and carry les tools or something
17:48 drumroll please
That sounds terrible. Replace those bearings man.
Lol not the best video also u can use snap ring players to to put the lock ring in also u should show how important it is to get the pin in the lock ring if those nuts back off 😬also those bearings are not packed correctly
I've hi be