that was really helpful, thank you for taking the time to explain it in a way that was easily understood. I tried learning it off someone else's youtube clip and just ended up more confused.
Glad you found it helpful. I know a lot of the stuff on these cameras is just plain complicated these days, which always make sit challenging to learn, never mind explain.
That description was exactly what I’d looked for a couple of month for my 5dm4. I knew that this is posible, but I‘ve not found the right description how it works. Thx. Made my day.
I am going to reach out to you on this since you are so knowledgeable. Hopefully, comments on these older vids are still seen. Anyway, what I want to configure seems simple enough but I am not getting it to occur. I want a button or setting to focus track what I lock onto and stay locked on EVEN if a face comes into frame. I do NOT want focus to jump off what I am focused on and move to a face that happens to enter the frame. Example: I close up focus on a logo on a coffee mug sitting on a desk. A hand comes in and picks up the mug and starts lifting it up. As the mug gets near the person's face I want the focus lock to STAY on the logo detail I am tracking and NOT automatically switch over to the person's face as it enters the frame. I have been told on forums this is definitely doable but for the life of me, I can't make it happen.
A couple of off handed thoughts, I haven't tested either of these in detail yet. But one would be to play with the "Switching Tracked Subjects" setting in the AF 4 menu. The other would be to set the "Subject to detect" (AF 1) to none. If that doesn't work, I will be getting to AF stuff early next year in the R5 series, so I might have a better answer then.
So i have a canon 5d mark iv. Learnign to shoot hockey games. I have my AF-on button as my back button focus. I use the q button to set my camera on back to AI-servo when needed. What all settings should i use to shoot hockey as far as af are modes, metering mode etc? And what should i set the af-on and the other button next to it to? But also allow me to still use the camera to shoot stills.
So, I've never shot a hockey game, so I'm really sure I have the best answer for what exact settings you'll want to use. My experience with action stuff in general is that I use the automatic selection AF area, and lean heavily on the camera's ability to keep tracking whatever I've got it started on. I've always struggled to keep things under a single (or the expanded) AF point when I'm panning like crazy to keep up with the action, so having the full AF area involved at least gave me a chance of having the something useful under an AF point. As for the buttons, if you don't use the AE lock, then I'd say give the setup I've detailed here a try. Use the AF-On button for for your "still" AF, just set its function to AF and metering start. Then use the AE Lock button set up to always use servo and the "automatic selection AF" area as your quick button for action. For that one you'll also set it to AF + metering start, but then hit info for detailed settings and change the settings there to AI Servo and the area to the use the full array. As for AI servo characteristics, I think you're going to have to play with that to find what works best for you. Case 5 might be a good place to start, but you might have push tracking sensitivity towards locked on a little if the camera jumps around to other subjects. Hope there's something in there that's useful for you.
@@PointsInFocus what about the af start position? i got the auto selection af for selection mode as it looks like you mentioned that. I missed that one.
I'd say start with the following and see how it goes. AF start position: selected AI Servo Characteristics: Case 5 AF Operation: AI Servo AF area: Auto Selection AF
I prefer to leave my * back button for (auto focus lock/no ae lock )aka focus off...and my shutter release half press as start focus. In this manner when I need one shot photos for a stationary subject I press the back button * with my thumb to stop auto focus this way if my subject moves or takes flight I just release my thumb pressure from * back button and resume a.i. auto focus tracking. Although with the 5d miv... You can set all the following in your custom back buttons. (Af Auto focus start position) (Ai servo Af characteristics) (Af operation) (Af area select mode) Just press the info button while customizing your back buttons and follow the screen through the four different set-ups on the two back buttons. They may be set for different scenarios to suite your own style of photography. Plus auto focus at all a.f. points are possible even with tele converters installed at f8. With most super telephpto Lenses. My 1999 Canon 600mm f4 i.s. and the new Canon 100mm-400mm mii versions both have this ability provided you use the newest tele converters 1.4 miii or 2x miii. Plus they can be combined for even greater reach.
Re. Teleconverters, if you're stacking teleconverters, you're really harming your image quality. In fact with high res cameras, my limited testing so far testing is giving me better image quality up sampling (or even good enough IQ for prints with just cropping) than using a teleconverter at all, even a 1.4x III. When I tested things a number of years ago, I found that 2X TCs were almost universally a bad proposition on digital due to the IQ losses.
Yes, you should be able to do something similar. The only difference that I believe exists, is that on the R6, like the R5, there isn't a registered AF point, so you have to configure the AF area mode for the second button in the button's configuration instead of using the registered AF point to handle that.
wow, you have just demonstrated why MOST of us use Nikons; not just because of ergonomic reasons!!- because this AF and menu system requires a degree in computer/photographic science to understand, and the fact that a change in ONE thing can a/effect your entire shooting experience. also I have Autism, so the simpler interface and smaller range of menu options is better for me, but I do understand everyone is different.
Complex things are complicated. Moreover, making them simple tends to cause even more problems for users than asking/requiring them to learn how to use their tools. Dual rear button focusing is not a basic function. Setting up single rear button focusing is not nearly the complicated, and 90% of the work is already done out of the box (you only need to change the shutter release half press from AF+AE to AE only). This is an advanced topic that's focusing on advanced configuration options; one should not expect it to be simple.
I need some help with this. On my MKIII, I was going to customize the AE lock button. I chose the metering and AF start as recommended. However, when I use the info button I get the AF start point menu.... but nothing else. I do not have the other detail set options as shown in the video. Have I missed a step? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
@John Weddel, by MkIII do you mean 1DX mark III or 5D mark III? Both should be able to this, but the menus may be somewhat different. In the case of the 1DX3, the relevant part of the manual is on page 860. If you're talking about the 5D3, then it's page 330. Unfortunately, I don't have access to either of these cameras, so the manual is the best I can do and it's not all that helpful. The only other thing I can think of is on the 5D3 make sure you're not in A+ mode when you're trying to set this up.
@@PointsInFocus Thanks... it is, indeed the 5D Mark III. The camera is in M mode. The manual did not seem to offer any help on the missing info menu items.... but I will keep searching. Thanks, again, for your kind response
They simply may not be there. I distinctly recall doing this on my 5D3, but I haven't had a 5D3 in hand since 2018. You might not be able to override the AF modes (servo/one shot), but you can set the AF area to whatever you want and use save that to the registered AF point. So you may have to leave the camera in servo, but you should be able to have the AF-On button be a single point, and the AE lock button be the 61-point auto selection mode.
@@PointsInFocus Thank you for that. I have seen videos for the BBF options, but they were all pretty old. Perhaps, in one of the firmware updates, they changed/altered that menu. I do have the camera set up the way you suggested...manual mode, back buttons, and Servo......it is actually pretty much the same thing, I believe. I did send an email to Canon Support just to see if they had some sort of answer/explanation. Appreciate your comments and time!
I have the same problem on my 5dmarkiii. I do not such a detailed menu to set up dual BBF and customize all of these settings on the AF-On & * buttons. When I press info I only have 2 options. Manually select AF point or Registered AF point.
that was really helpful, thank you for taking the time to explain it in a way that was easily understood.
I tried learning it off someone else's youtube clip and just ended up more confused.
Glad you found it helpful. I know a lot of the stuff on these cameras is just plain complicated these days, which always make sit challenging to learn, never mind explain.
That description was exactly what I’d looked for a couple of month for my 5dm4. I knew that this is posible, but I‘ve not found the right description how it works. Thx. Made my day.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Mate, great video.
I am going to reach out to you on this since you are so knowledgeable. Hopefully, comments on these older vids are still seen. Anyway, what I want to configure seems simple enough but I am not getting it to occur. I want a button or setting to focus track what I lock onto and stay locked on EVEN if a face comes into frame. I do NOT want focus to jump off what I am focused on and move to a face that happens to enter the frame. Example:
I close up focus on a logo on a coffee mug sitting on a desk. A hand comes in and picks up the mug and starts lifting it up. As the mug gets near the person's face I want the focus lock to STAY on the logo detail I am tracking and NOT automatically switch over to the person's face as it enters the frame.
I have been told on forums this is definitely doable but for the life of me, I can't make it happen.
A couple of off handed thoughts, I haven't tested either of these in detail yet.
But one would be to play with the "Switching Tracked Subjects" setting in the AF 4 menu. The other would be to set the "Subject to detect" (AF 1) to none.
If that doesn't work, I will be getting to AF stuff early next year in the R5 series, so I might have a better answer then.
great video on rear back button focus
So i have a canon 5d mark iv. Learnign to shoot hockey games. I have my AF-on button as my back button focus. I use the q button to set my camera on back to AI-servo when needed. What all settings should i use to shoot hockey as far as af are modes, metering mode etc? And what should i set the af-on and the other button next to it to? But also allow me to still use the camera to shoot stills.
So, I've never shot a hockey game, so I'm really sure I have the best answer for what exact settings you'll want to use.
My experience with action stuff in general is that I use the automatic selection AF area, and lean heavily on the camera's ability to keep tracking whatever I've got it started on. I've always struggled to keep things under a single (or the expanded) AF point when I'm panning like crazy to keep up with the action, so having the full AF area involved at least gave me a chance of having the something useful under an AF point.
As for the buttons, if you don't use the AE lock, then I'd say give the setup I've detailed here a try. Use the AF-On button for for your "still" AF, just set its function to AF and metering start. Then use the AE Lock button set up to always use servo and the "automatic selection AF" area as your quick button for action. For that one you'll also set it to AF + metering start, but then hit info for detailed settings and change the settings there to AI Servo and the area to the use the full array.
As for AI servo characteristics, I think you're going to have to play with that to find what works best for you. Case 5 might be a good place to start, but you might have push tracking sensitivity towards locked on a little if the camera jumps around to other subjects.
Hope there's something in there that's useful for you.
@@PointsInFocus ok ill start with those and play with them next game i go to. As for area selection i have large zone af and auto selection af.
@@PointsInFocus what about the af start position? i got the auto selection af for selection mode as it looks like you mentioned that. I missed that one.
I'd say start with the following and see how it goes.
AF start position: selected
AI Servo Characteristics: Case 5
AF Operation: AI Servo
AF area: Auto Selection AF
@@PointsInFocus thanks! ill play with them
I prefer to leave my * back button for (auto focus lock/no ae lock )aka focus off...and my shutter release half press as start focus. In this manner when I need one shot photos for a stationary subject I press the back button * with my thumb to stop auto focus this way if my subject moves or takes flight I just release my thumb pressure from * back button and resume a.i. auto focus tracking.
Although with the 5d miv...
You can set all the following in your custom back buttons.
(Af Auto focus start position)
(Ai servo Af characteristics)
(Af operation)
(Af area select mode)
Just press the info button while customizing your back buttons and follow the screen through the four different set-ups on the two back buttons. They may be set for different scenarios to suite your own style of photography.
Plus auto focus at all a.f. points are possible even with tele converters installed at f8. With most super telephpto
Lenses. My 1999 Canon 600mm f4 i.s. and the new Canon 100mm-400mm mii versions both have this ability provided you use the newest tele converters 1.4 miii or 2x miii. Plus they can be combined for even greater reach.
Re. Teleconverters, if you're stacking teleconverters, you're really harming your image quality. In fact with high res cameras, my limited testing so far testing is giving me better image quality up sampling (or even good enough IQ for prints with just cropping) than using a teleconverter at all, even a 1.4x III. When I tested things a number of years ago, I found that 2X TCs were almost universally a bad proposition on digital due to the IQ losses.
I prefer that back button nofocus too
Would this configuration also be applicable to the Canon R6?
Yes, you should be able to do something similar.
The only difference that I believe exists, is that on the R6, like the R5, there isn't a registered AF point, so you have to configure the AF area mode for the second button in the button's configuration instead of using the registered AF point to handle that.
@@PointsInFocus Thank you! Very informative video!
wow, you have just demonstrated why MOST of us use Nikons; not just because of ergonomic reasons!!- because this AF and menu system requires a degree in computer/photographic science to understand, and the fact that a change in ONE thing can a/effect your entire shooting experience. also I have Autism, so the simpler interface and smaller range of menu options is better for me, but I do understand everyone is different.
Complex things are complicated. Moreover, making them simple tends to cause even more problems for users than asking/requiring them to learn how to use their tools.
Dual rear button focusing is not a basic function. Setting up single rear button focusing is not nearly the complicated, and 90% of the work is already done out of the box (you only need to change the shutter release half press from AF+AE to AE only). This is an advanced topic that's focusing on advanced configuration options; one should not expect it to be simple.
I need some help with this. On my MKIII, I was going to customize the AE lock button. I chose the metering and AF start as recommended. However, when I use the info button I get the AF start point menu.... but nothing else. I do not have the other detail set options as shown in the video. Have I missed a step? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
@John Weddel, by MkIII do you mean 1DX mark III or 5D mark III?
Both should be able to this, but the menus may be somewhat different. In the case of the 1DX3, the relevant part of the manual is on page 860. If you're talking about the 5D3, then it's page 330. Unfortunately, I don't have access to either of these cameras, so the manual is the best I can do and it's not all that helpful. The only other thing I can think of is on the 5D3 make sure you're not in A+ mode when you're trying to set this up.
@@PointsInFocus Thanks... it is, indeed the 5D Mark III. The camera is in M mode. The manual did not seem to offer any help on the missing info menu items.... but I will keep searching. Thanks, again, for your kind response
They simply may not be there. I distinctly recall doing this on my 5D3, but I haven't had a 5D3 in hand since 2018.
You might not be able to override the AF modes (servo/one shot), but you can set the AF area to whatever you want and use save that to the registered AF point. So you may have to leave the camera in servo, but you should be able to have the AF-On button be a single point, and the AE lock button be the 61-point auto selection mode.
@@PointsInFocus Thank you for that. I have seen videos for the BBF options, but they were all pretty old. Perhaps, in one of the firmware updates, they changed/altered that menu. I do have the camera set up the way you suggested...manual mode, back buttons, and Servo......it is actually pretty much the same thing, I believe. I did send an email to Canon Support just to see if they had some sort of answer/explanation. Appreciate your comments and time!
I have the same problem on my 5dmarkiii. I do not such a detailed menu to set up dual BBF and customize all of these settings on the AF-On & * buttons. When I press info I only have 2 options. Manually select AF point or Registered AF point.
Great. Cheers Mate
Why do you use the word register instead of select?
Probably out of habit since that's the term that Canon usually uses when describing the processes (or at least similar ones).
Great information but please stop moving your hands so much