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The short answer is you can't. The routing is hard coded in the camera, as I described in the video and on page 105 of the manual. The only case where the 3.5mm input is put on channels 3 & 4 is when you also have a multi-function shoe audio device (like Canon's DM-E1D mic) in the hot shoe and your mic plugged into the 3.5mm connector.

So this is probably not what you're going to want to here, but I think you're going to have to call Canon support about that one. None of what you're describing sounds like something that would be caused by a setting or something like that. Especially the not turning off when you switch the power switch to off and having to pull the battery to get it to shut down.

@@PointsInFocus Thank you very much for the feedback. Have a good day.

Unfortunately, I don't have an EOS R, only an R5, but what you're describing sounds like you have turned off exposure sim on the shoot 3 menu (on the R). As what you're describing is not how the display brightness setting works or what it does on any Canon camera I've ever used. However, if exposure sim is disabled, the camera will change the brightness the way you're describing based on the camera's meter.

That's for the suggestion, I'll put that on the todo list.

I haven't seen that problem before. What is your interval time set to? Keep in mind, the interval has to be longer than the exposure time plus a little, so if you want at 15-sec exposure every 5 seconds, then you need to set the interval to 20 seconds.

@@PointsInFocus thank you so much, never ever read anything about adding the time of my exposure. you are the best! One more question. Silly thing is that my camera never ever makes the amount of shots I ask for. I can work around this. Thanks again. Really appreciate your response.

Yea, you'd think that the interval would be the time between shots, since the camera should know what the exposure time is. But Canon (and really I think everyone else does it the same way) implements the in camera intervalometer the same as an external one. The interval is the time between when shutter release triggers, and doesn't account for the exposure time. Also as an aside, since you said you were doing the meteor shower. If you want a continuous series of 15s exposures, you can also set your shutter speed to that like you're doing, but put the camera in continuous drive mode and lock the shutter button down. If you have a remote release, most have a shutter button lock that will do the job, otherwise you can use a bit of something to push the button and some gaffer tape to hold it in place. The camera will just take exposure after exposure with no delay in between.

@@PointsInFocus That is .... Continuous mode. Like I said before. You are the best. Thank you so much for your help.

Unless I'm missing some new Atomos product, they all connect with HDMI. So as long as you can plug in the USB-C cable to your power source, you can hook anything up to the HDMI port you want. I run my R5C with USB-PD and an Atomos Ninja Ultra all the time.

I'm not overly impressed with the RF 70-200/4L, so much so that I don't have one (though I don't really use a 70-200 that much either, hence why I have this old lens instead of the newer mk 2 version). And honestly, given the size of the RF 70-200 f/2.8 I'd rather go that route instead. A big part of the reason I got this lens back in the day was it's size. That said, while I understand Canon's decision to make the RF 70-200s more compact, and it makes a lot of sense in a lot of cases. I'm also not sure it was the best move across the board either. Then again, there's also a reasonable chance that we might see a internal zoom 70-200/2.8L PZ following the RF 24-105/2.8L IS USM Z. Though even the 24-105/2.8 Z has it's share of optical compromises too, and I'm not sure that a 70-200 wouldn't end up that way also.

@@PointsInFocus Lately Canon hasn't been following any standards. They try to make lenses as compact as possible and with good edge sharpness if possible - but in other respects they've dropped the bar. -3v of vignetting where there shouldn't be more than 1.5ev, distortion correction profiles that cut off 10-15% of the frame, "engineering plastic" that feels like a toy. It's a shame because not long ago Canon was the opposite of that. They weren't making the most fashionable, high-tech stuff, but they were very balanced and robust.

I don't actually know what the bit depth of the R10's electronic shutter is, in fact, I don't think I've seen anything anywhere that says anything about it being any different from the other shutter modes. Which makes some sense, the R10 has a 24 MP sensor compared to the R5's 45MP sensor. And the primary reason for reducing the bit depth on the R5 in electronic shutter mode is to reduce the amount of data that has to be processed at 20 FPS. 20 FPS * 45 MP = 900 MP/s versus 23 FPS * 24 MP is only 552 MP/s. Moreover, while the settings and general details discussed in these videos apply to most if not all of Canon's cameras, specific details, such as the bit depth of the electronic shutter, in this case are specific to the R5.

Are you in movie recording mode? For some reason Canon didn't include the live option in movie mode like they did in photo mode. I have no idea why, it's kind of a silly omission when they still have all the rest of the quick control menu white balance options.

Good question. I won't have a good answer for that until I get my R5-2, hopefully in a couple of weeks. And the AF is one thing I want to dig into.

Unfortunately, I don't think that's ever going to happen. And I'm starting to wonder if it's a power issue. On the R5-2 Canon is saying that there will be reduced WiFi performance when you aren't using the new LP-E6P batteries, and on the R5C the camera can't do everything in the highest power modes (8K60 + AF without external power). In the WiFi grip, one battery provides power to the camera and the other is power for the WiFi. So power isn't a problem.

I always recommend using the first curtain electronic shutter unless you're shooting with a very fast lens (f/2 or faster) and see problems with the bokeh.

Like I said to @donnawetter1513, if you've never had it happen to you, the odds are good that it won't. It seems like it's really specific to a lot of personal factors, like the kinds of clothes you wear, the strap you use and it's length, and how you carry the camera (or what kind of bag you put it in). Some people never have a problem, others have it happen often enough that I get comments asking about it. For most people that actually have the problem, my recommendation is just to use the multi-function lock to lock the dial when you're not using it. Personally, I've never really had a problem with the ISO changing, and having the easy access to the dial is way to connivent for me to disable it.

I wouldn't worry too much if you haven't already experienced it. I wanted to demo the problem for the video, and I spent about 30 minutes pushing the camera around me like an idiot trying to to get it to change. I could get it to do it. My experience has been that this is something that's very specific to the end user, their body type, the kind of clothes they wear, the specific strap they use, and how the hang and handle the camera. For some people it never happens, for others it happens often enough that I get comments asking why their cameras ISO changes all the time. That's ultimately why I made the video.

You can customize it any way you want. Such a silly comment.

Thanks for the heads up on the thumbnail, it's fixed.

Yes, I think that would be perfectly fine.

It sounds like your custom picture settings aren't set to Canon Log 3. 400/1600 is the base ISO setting for Rec709 Wide DR, HDR PQ, HLG and Canon 709.

@PointsInFocus yes, I just checked. You're absolutely correct. Thank you for that.

If you're using a camera cage with either NATO rails or Arri anti-rotation pins (2 small holes alongside a 3/8-16 or 1/4-20 threaded hole) you can work with that. SmallRig has magic arms that end in the Arri anti twist system (and the pins are spring loaded so they'll retract when you need a flat surface. Otherwise, you locktite a nato clamp on one end and use a nato rail on your camera cage and that shouldn't rotate either. Just make sure you use the blue locktite (removable) and don't completely douse the threads in it (you only need a drop).

Thanks for the heads up...

Yes, it's 14-bit. The only exception to that is when you have the camera set to the continuous H+ drive mode, in that case even with the Mech and FEC shutters, the ADCs are read at 13-bit instead.

@@PointsInFocus Oh informative, thanks for the quick reply.

Also Normal, Slightly Thick, and Thick as a denoting scheme should start being applied more universally 😂

If you haven't contacted Canon support (or CPS if you're a member) about that I would strongly encourage you to do so. That doesn't sound like it shouldn't be happening.