Great video on these filters I've used many different brands of oil filters and never really had a bad experience with any of them but through my experiences and results I now primarily use purolator,wix, or napa,filters. 90% of the time it's purolator.....oh I also use mopar filters as well though I'm a little uncomfortable using them not knowing who makes them, I've used Fram many times and never had a problem with them.
I love Purolator classic, been using them for many years. The classic has 96% filtration but boss is 98%. The classic is less restrictive because standard oil thickens over time, whereas synthetic does not. I run the classic filter with mobil1 for 8-10,000 miles no problem. My concern is reduced oil flow and back pressure on the oil pump. Just know that as a filter fills with dirt, it actually filters better. If a synthetic filter gets clogged, the oil bypasses the filter completely. 10,000 miles max for my cars. Combustion engines create dirty oil regardless. Best practice is to replace the filter after 10,000. Oil change is $35 vs an engine costing $15,000
I work at advance and we almost always have the deal on 5 qt full synthetic your choice of Mobile 1 Valvoline or Castrol with your choice of Mobile 1 K&N or Purolator Boss filter whenever a customer ask what I'd use i always say Valvoline with the Purolator Boss 💯 i think mobile 1 oil is fine but never Pennzoil or Castrol and NEVER a fram filter
May I ask why never Pennzoil? I've heard many good things about the ultra Platinum full synthetic. I've also heard good things about the Fram Ultra synthetic oil filter. Just curious is all
Ahh nonsense castrol is one of the best oils period. High levels of zinc help for old Push rod engines. And the dexos 1 syn is great. Compared to valvoline the engines rum way smoother and quieter...
I currently have a Wix XP and a Purolator Boss filters. I am going to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 engine oil. Any comments on what filter is "better" ?
Stepside1986 - You picked the perfect oil, which is what I also use. There's no better oil than that. However, the filter I use is the Mobil 1 Extended Performance. My second choice would be a Wix XP.
You're better off with Purolator One or Boss. The Classic is rated up to 5k miles. You get a lot more mileage out of synthetic. Here's a nice little guide: www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/
Yes it works with any oil type or viscosity. I use it with full synthetic because I change it whenever my work car tells me (3000 miles). So you may not need the more expensive filters. It depends on your driving habits mostly and how often you change it.
Out of all of the lineups that filter brands present, Purolator has the most consistent and quality filters I have seen. Filter media is of good quality and construction is second to none. This is my go too filter. Made in America! Hopefully they don’t change a thing.
@@Tman0517 Except for their synthetic filter, which came in 3rd place behind Royal Purple and Amsoil in this filtration test. www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html
Back when I bought a '91 Stealth R/T, I discovered that the Fram had an inconsistent oil pressure, whereas the Purolator gave me a consistent oil pressure. I never used Fram filters again. Since then I learned how bad Fram oil filters were.
@@charlespetersonii6989 if you're an oil freak you will be more interested in polyalphaolefins than mineral cracking oils. Also you'd recognize that Pennzoil ultra is probably the best mineral oil you can run in your vehicle because of its natural gas base stock. Flow rate, wear protection, and cleaning ability are the most important thing to most North American vehicles. Pennzoil ultra beats most PAOs in these categories.
I've been waiting for this review of these filters. I've been using the purolator boss filter since its come out and I love it. It's my go to filter and its great for the price. Thank you for reviewing it.
It's not great for the price. The Purolator Boss used to be the Purolator PureOne, they discontinued the PureOne and rebranded it into the Boss and increased the price. You could get that filter for the same price as the current PurolatorOne
Advance auto parts ditched fram products for these. A good choice. Much higher quality for a comparable price. I️ have used the classic for my wife’s truck changing every 4K and the boss on my vw turbo changing every 7500 miles. Happy with both.
funny you should mention. A parts guy told me once that Fram ruled the world until You tube came along and exposed them. That's the reason his parts store stopped selling them....also the reason Fram started making a better line of filter.
Good show. You do well in you presentation. Purolator is hard to beat as a line of oil filters. Great quality control. I like the boss, but I also use wix xp, bosch long distance, stp gold and k&n. I buy any of these which are on sale. I go higher-end. My ram has 268, 000. The results speaks for itself.
I just picked up 2 of the Ones for $2.35 and a synthetic filter for $3.99 cuz our kmart is closing down. All 3 for my toyota pickup. I honestly bought them not knowing much about them but i couldnt pass em up
The Carquest reds are Purolator classics and the Carquest blue are Purolator one filters. On Bob is the oil guy they hate the classics because some have torn media but at the same time a lot of the ppl there say Fram orange filters aren't that bad,
I recently purchased an oil filter cutting tool because I wanted to inspect the condition of the Purolator Pure One oil filter I used on my truck with Royal Purple 5w-30. I used the filter for 6,000 miles which is well within its advertised life span. Although the integrity of the filter appeared to be intact I have to say I am disappointed with the quality of the construction. I have seen other videos where these filters have been dissected and they looked really well made which is what motivated me to try the Pure One. I have two major complaints about my filter upon inspection. First, in other videos I have seen of the filters they opened up showed that the filter media started and ended with a metal crimp which is what I prefer, but the filter I had was only glued together. Second, the spacing of the filter media was very inconsistent with several wide gaps. At first I thought this was due to the media being saturated and manipulated by flowing oil during use, but once I cleaned the old oil away I discovered it was due to the position in which the media was bonded to the metal end caps during manufacture
I´ve watched a lot of your oil filters videos and I can conclude that Purolator Boss would be one of the best oil filters money can buy, I´m asking because I plan to get a top quality oil so I can avoid oil change for a year. I drive 12,500 miles a year so this would be a good filter to combine with the a top quality 100% synthetic lubricant wouldn´t it?
The -14610 and its shorter (2.5" tall) brother, the -14612) also work very nicely in a Yamaha FJR1300 motorcycle. Purolator also changed the coating on at least the PL. It used to be an easy to grip sandy, baby sh1t yellow color. Now, it's the somewhat slippery, dark blue color you see here.
I typically don't have an issue with that. I use Motorcraft filters in my vehicles. 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn once gasket touches and they come right off after 7- 10k miles
I talked to Purolator now owned by Mann + Hummel, they told me that the BOSS although synthetic filters at higher micron level than the ONE. I believe the ONE does 20 microns, whereas the BOSS does 25 microns.
Thanks, interestingly: I,have never seen any “ PERFORMAX ( made Mexico) PO-167[PZ-167 PENNZOIL??], etc., oil Filters examined!! (my DODGE DEALER USES PERFORMAX in my 2015 Journey Program Oil Change .....?).....** last two I,examined were labeled MADE USA.
The anti-drainback valve really isn't that important if your filter is spun-on upside down (as most are), or spun somewhat upside down at an angle. The oil will naturally stay in the filter due to gravity. So the anti-drainback valve is only really important if you filter is spun on from the top of the motor or on the side but higher-up. That being said, the Purolator is a very good filter for the money and I also believe they make the Motorcraft filters for Ford and those are very good filters as well.
The Boss filter having a thicker shell and base would be excellent for use on a tractor, or truck that might be used where there's more possibility of impacted damage when used on a farm or off road. Better filtering would just be a bonus.
Can I use the red filter for full synthetic with a 3k mile oil change? I know it's not the greatest, but I usually do 3k mile oil changes anyway. Doesn't seem like it'll hurt, thoughts?
At 2:43 you try to explain the purpose of the check valve. You say, "Instead of all the oil in the engine draining back into the filter...." Please tell me you have since learned just how horribly wrong this explanation is. For those with little time to spare, the short version goes like this: 1) What you say would defy the laws of physics. Oil is incompressible. If won't fit. I'll explain this in detail shortly 2) The purpose of the check valve is to prevent contaminated oil (already trapped inside the oil filter) from getting back into the engine when the engine is turned off. I'll explain this as well, if you have the time. That's the short of it. Now, if you want me to elaborate, let's take these points one-by-one. Let's begin by debunking this nonsense about "all the oil in the engine would drain into the oil filter when the engine turns off without that check valve". Law of Physics: Oil is virtually incompressible. It can be pressurized, yes. But it cannot be compacted. Better yet, let's take a real-life example. Take a Dodge 5.7 liter hemi engine. At every oil change, you fill it with seven quarts of motor oil, correct? So there are supposed to be SEVEN QUARTS of oil INSIDE the engine. The oil filter for that engine holds roughly one pint. You know this because some folks fill the brand new filter with oil before screwing it on. It takes roughly half a quart to fill the oil filter. Try as you might, you cannot (in any way) squeeze more than one pint of oil into the oil filter. Now, let me let you in on a little secret for this oil change. I've sabotaged the oil filter. I secretly opened up the oil filter and took out the check valve before I welded the cover back on and filled it with oil and screwed it onto the Hemi. Let's run the engine and see what happens. Engine runs just fine. The oil filter even cleans the oil just the way it is supposed to work. And all this happens without that check valve. Now let me turn off the engine to see if your theory is correct about all the engine oil draining into the filter. There! Engine is off. Let's wait a minute and check the dipstick. Lo and behold! The dipstick reads NORMALLY! ZERO OIL LOSS! How can this be? There is no check valve. I took it out. Answer: Because the oil filter is already filled with oil. No more oil can fit inside the filter canister. Therefore all the oil that WAS in the engine STILL REMAINS in the engine, even without a check valve. Wow! Amazing how science works. But your theory is even funner because you forgot something vitally important to your theory. There is a HOLE in the middle of both of those check valves you held up to the camera. That hole allows oil to pass FREELY between the engine and the INSIDE (the "discharge" port of the oil filter whether the engine is on or off. I'm talking the threaded hole, not the six or eight smaller holes arranged in a circle. So even if your claim was true, that particular device would not get the job done because of that HUGE GAPING HOLE IN THE MIDDLE. So have I sufficiently debunked the nonsense in your video at the 2:43 mark? So what is the true purpose of the check valve? The check valve is there to prevent CONTAMINATED OIL (already trapped inside the periphery of oil filter canister) from leaking back into the engine in the wrong direction when the engine is shut off and the oil pump is asleep. That check valve made of rubber or silicone covers the six or eight small holes arranged in a circle. I.e., when the engine is turned off, the springiness of that valve presses down to seal up those six or eight holes to prevent contaminated oil from inside the dirty zone of the filter from mixing with engine oil. When the engine is running, pressure from the oil pump forces the check valve to bend open by flexing. Oil can only move in one direction. It is forced into the filter through those six or eight small holes arranged in a circle. That lets the oil enter into the volume between the outside surface of the filter element and the inside surface of the metal canister. That area is VERY DIRTY because that's where all the nasty contaminants ACCUMULATE mile after mile after mile. When the engine is running, oil flow PRESSES those contaminants up against the outside surface of the filter element. That's where they remain as long as the engine is running. But turn the engine off and many of those particles "fall" off the filter element and into the zone of dirty oil trapped between the element and the inner surface of the metal canister. If you leave your car parked for a week, that zone of oil will become saturated with particulates which detach from the filter element and re-suspend within the oil. This oil is MUCH, MUCH more contaminated than the oil in the engine. So you do not want for this oil to leak back into the engine when it is turned off. THAT is the purpose of the check valve. If you did not have the check valve, that oil would leak out of the oil filter through those six or eight tiny holes arranged in a circle. This horribly contaminated oil would then mix (over time) with cleaner oil in the engine and much of that particulate matter that had been trapped inside the oil filter for thousands of miles would migrate back to the engine, undoing all the goodness of the oil filter.
I emailed them and for my particular filter if I went with the Boss, I was told it was 46 microns filtering and if I wanted to stop smaller particles go with the One. Since it's not as high of a milage filter, they said it was 21 to 25 micron for my particular filter I want to use. It seems some not all of them filter exactly the same I reckon. Believe it or not! If you need to know, email Purolator and they will respond and are very nice.
you say CLASSIC for conventional/high mileage and ONE for high mileage and BOSS for full synthetic. Does this mean I shouldn't use ONE or BOSS for conventional?
Taylor Strickler The Boss, the only high end model filter that has 40 at 99%. That stinks. If they'd get it down to 20, they'd probably have the best high end filter on the market. Until then, Fram Ultra Syn for me.
@@utahwanderlust700 That was my conclusion too. I've been using the Fram Ultra Syn on my 370Z since it was new and it is doing a great job of keeping the engine clean.
@@videomaniac108 I’ve been curious about tryin out the FRAM ultra in my G37S. I usually use M1’s M-110 EP which is a tad larger than OEM but has the same thread pitch and diameter so if I can put a bigger filter on than why not especially since the filters on our VQ37VHR’s are so tiny
@@sk8punk318 I was thinking the same thing and would like to fit a taller filter on my Z if I could. The taller filter, with it's greater filtration area, may be what Mobil 1 is doing to compensate for a more restrictive filter that has superior filtration efficiency.
5:40 found an error, the bypass valve doesn’t open at all just because the media is clogged, that’s not how that works. Bypass valve on a oil filter is designed to open under a specified pressure to prevent the starvation of oil. Most Subaru and smaller high performance engines require 23-26 psi filters, and other engines tends to run between 12-18psi filters. So that’s why it’s important to mention each oil’s bypass pressure in order to understand if the oil will work with a certain car’s spec. This bypass valve is not performance related, but more designed for certain specifications. I believe older PureOne are only rated for 16psi while the new Purolators are 20-30psi. So for engines designed to use 12-18psi, this wouldn’t be the right filters to use because it may potentially starve the engine of oil. And vice versa, if you put a KNN oil filter in a Subaru WRX sti, it’s not going to filter anything for roughly 6-8psi range because Subarus are specified to use a much higher bypass pressure filter and the KNN bypass valve will be opened all the time once the engine operates at a pressure pass its limit.
Any idea what the efficiency micron rating of the Boss? I noticed that Purolator rep didn't respond about the efficiency rating. Silence is golden, hmmmm. I still love the Boss. The Ultra is hard to beat. Price and Efficiency. Thanks for the review.....take care
I used the cheap Purolator classic for sometime, and my truck hated me in the cold mornings. I will never go bottom tier, especially one's with rubber anti-drain back valve.
One gripe... Anti-drainback isnt so all the engine oil drains back into the filter... How can 5 quarts of oil drain into a 1 quart filter???? Stop saying that. It's there to prevent the oil in the filter from draining back into the engine, so the filter doesn't have to refill each time you start the engine.
I have seen most of your oil filter videos. I am totally sold on the Purolator. Thanks so much for helping me make up my mind. I am now Tim the Purolator Man.🚘💃
At the time of writing this, Purolator has changed all of their 3 oil filter lineups (regular, ONE, and BOSS) to be rated at an extra 5,000 miles. So the regular is now rated at 10,000 mi, the ONE is rated at 15,000 mi, and the BOSS is rated at 20,000 mi. Would be nice to see an old vs new to see what changed to make them last an extra 5,000 mi.
What many videos do not show is how Motorcraft Filters are one of only few companies using a thread end bypass, Wix, Napa, and Royal Purple all had outstanding design and when they got bought out, the designs changed and in my opinion they are a cheap design. No longer made with highest quality. Royal Purple Filters, Napa Gold and Wix have all changed from a nice steel base plate with thread end bypass, Silicone ADBV, evenly spaced holes and steel coil spring, solid canister casing. It would be interesting comparison how they have changed. Now Purolator is better than those. I currently use Motorcraft although I know they use a leaf spring and the Purolator is a decent design, the Boss is nice and it shows filter media is better than Motorcraft. Not a fan of dome end bypass. Many new oil filters displayed in videos don't even come close to what RP and Napa Wix used to be years ago. The new ACDelco E core is an embarrassment. Why do these companies think they can change a proven design and still have a loyal following for a cheaper product. They must think customers don't notice. I expected K and N to be higher quality, the dome end bypass design is cheap and does not look built with durability.
First.. No question that Purolator makes great filters. However, If you think about it, the mileage ratings are just for reference. The number of miles traveled vs the volume of oil being pushed through the filter is impossible to accurately predict due to different GPM ratings between vehicle oil pump, moving vs idling ratios, etc. Of course, the higher the "mileage rating" the longer lasting the filter may be, BUT my vehicle's engine run time & oil volume flow over a 10k mile period will likely be significantly different than yours. (Not to mention it's a real bad idea to go beyond 5k miles between oil & filter changes on the typical daily driver vehicle.)
Looks like the classic filter is the same as the ONE except for silicone ADBV. I use the classic because I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles. That's around the mileage I can't see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. The oil has more life but not up to my standards. My mechanic burns the old oil for heat so he gets the old oil.
Apparently purolator has been having some quality control issues. Filter media being torn in manufacturing, the perforated tube in the center not allowing for any flow at all. I've read that these problems have been going on for quite a while without the manufacturer trying to fix the issue. www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4302108/2
Exactly my thought. A low-end or no-name oil filter is good for 5000 miles. No more. If you run dino or semi oil and you have a clean engine, you don't need a pricier filter as long as your oil change interval is under 5000 miles. I have never had an engine that requires synthetic, but my thought is, use a low-end synthetic and change it more often, maybe even every 4000 miles. The price differential between dino, semi and low-end synthetic has just about disappeared. In fact, at this point all oil is semisynthetic to a degree because the carrier oil the additives come in is synthetic.
One more thing. I am now running full synthetic, high mileage oil. Would it still be ok to use the Boss or the One ? Any comments I would appreciate. Thanks to all.
You can get a discount at Advanced Auto Parts if you go on line to buy. There is a savings code you put in when paying on line. Then just go in and they hand you your part. Usually 20 percent. No discount for battery's
Thanks for these oil filter videos. I enjoy yours more than some of the other folks. I plan on using the Boss next oil change I do. Been using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil in my car. I would to stay with a USA made filter. Thanks again my friend.
You missed one important detail: Is the bypass relief valve using a "soft seat" or a "hard seat." The former refers to when an elastomer gasket-insert is used between the poppet and the plate to form a tight seal so that oil does not seep through when the valve is closed. A "hard seat" is an inferior metal-on-metal seal that always leaks to a certain degree allowing oil to bypass the filter element.
Good video. However, "rubber" is not a definitive description. It usually implies Natural Rubber which typically has no chemical resistance to motor oils. Synthetic elastomers vary greatly in chemical resistance. Some are very chemical resistant to motor oil other are not. Some have chemical resistance to motor as good as silicone formulations and may have better physical properties. Fluoroelastomers have very good oil resistance and high temp ratiings and they are usually black. So it is best to check with the mfg of the filter to determine the exact elastomer.
Learn something new everyday. I always assumed the anti drain back valve was to keep oil IN the filter. Looking at the design of the anti drain back valve it would support oil from draining from anything uphill from the filter when the engine is off.
So my car was using synthetic blend with Honda oil filter. I am thinking of switching to full synthetic oil, will that Honda filter suffice or I need something different?
My go to Filter! Purolator One filters are excellent. I got Nissan thats got over 200k. Oil is nice a clean! I also use Wix/Nissan OEM in my other car only because its under warranty.
Jack Smith Cuz they are both cheap. Mobil 1 doesn't make their own filters. They buy from Champion then slap on a Mobil 1 sticker then charge u twice as much
@@CarsNToys On the purolator Boss you have the polymer mesh integrated into the media. Same, if not better than wire backing. From top to bottom purolator has the best filters.
One point not made correct me if I'm wrong, is that the Boss filter bottom hole floor is concaved (recessed) which allows a little more space between the filter floor and where it meets the car. This may allow optimum oil flow with the added space. IDK let me know what ya think.
I pick up a boss filter and pick up a fram ultra, and boss feel more heavy and more heavy duty and feel more sturdy then the fram ultra, with discount code by buying online at advance auto part, its my only high end filter for now.
I love these videos. I have both the 1 & boss for both a 97' Rav4 & 01' Highlander. I'm gonna use the ones & when I'm down to my last filter, which I hope I don't have to use. Imma use the boss as a "save the best for last" bought them all at Amazon once on sale. One was around 5-7. While boss was 11. Normally the one is like 7.20 & Boss is 13 Also for the rav4, I have the premium bosch oil filter as well. To me they're the same as the purolator 1. Kinda how like 7up & Sprite are.
I have a 2015 Chevy Impala limited LTZ with a direct injection motor and that drain back valve takes 3 hours, just to check the oil!! that's how good it keeps the oil up into the head of the engine never had a filter like that in my life PS pain in the ass to check your oil up
I've been using Purolator filters for years. For the price, the Purolator One can't be beat.
The bypass valve is also made to open on real cold weather starts when the oil is too thick to be forced through the filter. Good video.
Great video on these filters I've used many different brands of oil filters and never really had a bad experience with any of them but through my experiences and results I now primarily use purolator,wix, or napa,filters. 90% of the time it's purolator.....oh I also use mopar filters as well though I'm a little uncomfortable using them not knowing who makes them, I've used Fram many times and never had a problem with them.
Been running the boss filter and Valvoline full synthetic in my car works great
I love your filter videos!
Thank you.
I love Purolator classic, been using them for many years. The classic has 96% filtration but boss is 98%. The classic is less restrictive because standard oil thickens over time, whereas synthetic does not. I run the classic filter with mobil1 for 8-10,000 miles no problem. My concern is reduced oil flow and back pressure on the oil pump. Just know that as a filter fills with dirt, it actually filters better. If a synthetic filter gets clogged, the oil bypasses the filter completely. 10,000 miles max for my cars. Combustion engines create dirty oil regardless. Best practice is to replace the filter after 10,000. Oil change is $35 vs an engine costing $15,000
Great video! First time watching one from your channel. Very nice job, might subscribe!!! Thumbs up
Thank you. Glad to share.
I work at advance and we almost always have the deal on 5 qt full synthetic your choice of Mobile 1 Valvoline or Castrol with your choice of Mobile 1 K&N or Purolator Boss filter whenever a customer ask what I'd use i always say Valvoline with the Purolator Boss 💯 i think mobile 1 oil is fine but never Pennzoil or Castrol and NEVER a fram filter
May I ask why never Pennzoil? I've heard many good things about the ultra Platinum full synthetic. I've also heard good things about the Fram Ultra synthetic oil filter. Just curious is all
Sounds like advertising. I used Pennzoil and it's a very good synthetic oil. Comes out almost clear everytime we change it.
Ahh nonsense castrol is one of the best oils period. High levels of zinc help for old Push rod engines. And the dexos 1 syn is great. Compared to valvoline the engines rum way smoother and quieter...
The boss does have a mesh backing I just cut mine open myself it’s definitely there
I currently have a Wix XP and a Purolator Boss filters. I am going to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 engine oil. Any comments on what filter is "better" ?
Stepside1986 - You picked the perfect oil, which is what I also use. There's no better oil than that. However, the filter I use is the Mobil 1 Extended Performance. My second choice would be a Wix XP.
Both are very good filters.
Bobby Knight
Wrong idiot... In wear tests... Amsoil and Quaker State Ultimate Durability beat Pennzoil Ultra... STFU
Bobby Knight...LoooL
Regular Wix filters more than XP.
Doesn’t MANN Hummel own Purolator? Along with wix
Very good video.
Thank you.
Will the purolator classic (red) work well with synthetic blend motor oil?
You're better off with Purolator One or Boss. The Classic is rated up to 5k miles. You get a lot more mileage out of synthetic.
Here's a nice little guide: www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/
Yes it works with any oil type or viscosity. I use it with full synthetic because I change it whenever my work car tells me (3000 miles). So you may not need the more expensive filters. It depends on your driving habits mostly and how often you change it.
Any reviews of "does size matter" for filters? So little room for them with crowded engine and accessories, restrict size of filter.
Owned 3 Toy tks, 85, 89, 94, - lots of room for giant size which could fit with so much room - not now with newer vehicles.
can you use the boss filter for conventional oil?
Yes.
Can you cut up a Pennzoil Platinum HE filter
Sure. I plan on uploading a number of filters soon.
Efficiency at what micron?
Couldn't dig up that info. Some companies provide a micron rating in their brochures.
Boss 99% at 40 microns
One (blue) 99% at 20 microns
Purolator (Red) 96.5% at 20 microns
15000 miles! Holy crap! My Subaru Outback 2015 2.5 requires changing oil ow-20 every 6000 miles... ugh!
lol Yea, some vehicles you can go up to one year before replacing the filter. Crazy.
No sound on video
Out of all of the lineups that filter brands present, Purolator has the most consistent and quality filters I have seen. Filter media is of good quality and construction is second to none. This is my go too filter. Made in America! Hopefully they don’t change a thing.
We shop at menards they switched from quakerstate to purolator filters
remember when walmart used to carry the purolator classic, it was cheaper than fram and much better built.
Apparently colors and new boxes make the price go up lol
@@ArjjunSingh Yup haha, also Bosch distance+.. they really downgraded.
Purolators are great! Tell a friend, and save their car from the Orange Can of Death!
Yeah fram is trash.
@@Tman0517 Except for their synthetic filter, which came in 3rd place behind Royal Purple and Amsoil in this filtration test. www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html
Orange Can bad? lol
Back when I bought a '91 Stealth R/T, I discovered that the Fram had an inconsistent oil pressure, whereas the Purolator gave me a consistent oil pressure. I never used Fram filters again. Since then I learned how bad Fram oil filters were.
saved myself from that 40+ years ago used Motorcraft for about 10 years then switched to Purolator and never looked back
They are excellent filters. I've been using the Boss with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
yea girl
Don Stromberg Great combo. If your an oil freak like me look into Schaeffer oil. Amazing stuff.
Don Stromberg thats my go to combo as well!
Same here.
@@charlespetersonii6989 if you're an oil freak you will be more interested in polyalphaolefins than mineral cracking oils. Also you'd recognize that Pennzoil ultra is probably the best mineral oil you can run in your vehicle because of its natural gas base stock. Flow rate, wear protection, and cleaning ability are the most important thing to most North American vehicles. Pennzoil ultra beats most PAOs in these categories.
I've been waiting for this review of these filters. I've been using the purolator boss filter since its come out and I love it. It's my go to filter and its great for the price. Thank you for reviewing it.
Glad to help. Really nice filters.
It's not great for the price. The Purolator Boss used to be the Purolator PureOne, they discontinued the PureOne and rebranded it into the Boss and increased the price. You could get that filter for the same price as the current PurolatorOne
Advance auto parts ditched fram products for these. A good choice. Much higher quality for a comparable price. I️ have used the classic for my wife’s truck changing every 4K and the boss on my vw turbo changing every 7500 miles. Happy with both.
I like these as well. Advance is currently selling synthetic Castrol w/Boss filter for $33
@@CarsNToys That's how I got introduced to these filters, they still have the same deal in 2022! Great value
Not anymore, the partnered with them again. They carry both lines though.
funny you should mention. A parts guy told me once that Fram ruled the world until You tube came along and exposed them. That's the reason his parts store stopped selling them....also the reason Fram started making a better line of filter.
7500 for a turbo vehicle is insane bro that oil must come out blacker than my weiner
Good show. You do well in you presentation. Purolator is hard to beat as a line of oil filters. Great quality control. I like the boss, but I also use wix xp, bosch long distance, stp gold and k&n. I buy any of these which are on sale. I go higher-end. My ram has 268, 000. The results speaks for itself.
I just picked up 2 of the Ones for $2.35 and a synthetic filter for $3.99 cuz our kmart is closing down. All 3 for my toyota pickup. I honestly bought them not knowing much about them but i couldnt pass em up
Awesome deal
Dougie Backus, wish I would’ve known that then...I would’ve snagged a dozen of each!
You can get these filters at advance auto parts and they are great
You nailed it. Interestingly enough, AutoZone doesn't carry them; at least the local ones around here.
CarsNToys AutoZone is garbage they sell nothing but junk I only shop at advance auto parts because they carry the best brand's
Utah county Picazo's page They run a great deal where you can get a 5 quart of full synthetic Pennzoil with the boss filter, for $29.99.
The Carquest reds are Purolator classics and the Carquest blue are Purolator one filters. On Bob is the oil guy they hate the classics because some have torn media but at the same time a lot of the ppl there say Fram orange filters aren't that bad,
I havent found the actual efficiency in microns. Video tells that the efficiency is 99%. 99% of what particle size?
The box they come in does not give microns, either.
Boss 99% at 40 microns
One (blue) 99% at 20 microns
Purolator (Red) 96.5% at 20 microns
Keep in mind a blood cell is 5 microns. So these filters are damn good
blue03R6: Why do all the smart guys own Yamahas???
oilfilterdata.com/index.php?view=filter_info&model=PL14610Model:PL14610Brand:Purolator PureOneThread:M20x1.5ADB Valve:YesBypass Valve:14-18Efficiency:99.9% @ 20µBurst PSI: (blank)Height:3.52"Diameter:2.69"Displacement:20.00 in³
I recently purchased an oil filter cutting tool because I wanted to inspect the condition of the Purolator Pure One oil filter I used on my truck with Royal Purple 5w-30. I used the filter for 6,000 miles which is well within its advertised life span. Although the integrity of the filter appeared to be intact I have to say I am disappointed with the quality of the construction. I have seen other videos where these filters have been dissected and they looked really well made which is what motivated me to try the Pure One. I have two major complaints about my filter upon inspection. First, in other videos I have seen of the filters they opened up showed that the filter media started and ended with a metal crimp which is what I prefer, but the filter I had was only glued together. Second, the spacing of the filter media was very inconsistent with several wide gaps. At first I thought this was due to the media being saturated and manipulated by flowing oil during use, but once I cleaned the old oil away I discovered it was due to the position in which the media was bonded to the metal end caps during manufacture
Interesting. I have a Boss filter I'm about to open up after 12k miles. I'm curious to see the results. I'll post a video shortly.
CarsNToys how did it look when you open the filter?
I´ve watched a lot of your oil filters videos and I can conclude that Purolator Boss would be one of the best oil filters money can buy, I´m asking because I plan to get a top quality oil so I can avoid oil change for a year. I drive 12,500 miles a year so this would be a good filter to combine with the a top quality 100% synthetic lubricant wouldn´t it?
The -14610 and its shorter (2.5" tall) brother, the -14612) also work very nicely in a Yamaha FJR1300 motorcycle.
Purolator also changed the coating on at least the PL. It used to be an easy to grip sandy, baby sh1t yellow color. Now, it's the somewhat slippery, dark blue color you see here.
They redesigned the purolator one from a grit gold to blue
I typically don't have an issue with that. I use Motorcraft filters in my vehicles. 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn once gasket touches and they come right off after 7- 10k miles
David Pearson approves. Pure oil now....pure oil later.
I talked to Purolator now owned by Mann + Hummel, they told me that the BOSS although synthetic filters at higher micron level than the ONE. I believe the ONE does 20 microns, whereas the BOSS does 25 microns.
I've researched over and over and purolator is the best looking best filtering best burst strength and best flow rate....i am purolator for good now
Really nice filters. I'm using them more and more. Cheers.
Thanks, interestingly: I,have never seen any “ PERFORMAX ( made Mexico) PO-167[PZ-167 PENNZOIL??], etc., oil Filters examined!! (my DODGE DEALER USES PERFORMAX in my 2015 Journey Program Oil Change .....?).....** last two I,examined were labeled MADE USA.
The anti-drainback valve really isn't that important if your filter is spun-on upside down (as most are), or spun somewhat upside down at an angle. The oil will naturally stay in the filter due to gravity. So the anti-drainback valve is only really important if you filter is spun on from the top of the motor or on the side but higher-up. That being said, the Purolator is a very good filter for the money and I also believe they make the Motorcraft filters for Ford and those are very good filters as well.
Thanks for this explanation of the anti-drainback valve, i had always wondered about that.
Best filters out there! Only ones i use! ill substitute a mobil 1 or wix if i cant get one. Buy mine at meijer.
The Boss filter having a thicker shell and base would be excellent for use on a tractor, or truck that might be used where there's more possibility of impacted damage when used on a farm or off road. Better filtering would just be a bonus.
I use the Mobil 1 EP filter- mite as well try the Boss
Best Filters I've ever used. They're my go-to for my vehicles!
I just got a ONE for $7 shipped on Amazon after $2 coupon code.
Can I use the red filter for full synthetic with a 3k mile oil change? I know it's not the greatest, but I usually do 3k mile oil changes anyway. Doesn't seem like it'll hurt, thoughts?
Yes you can
At 2:43 you try to explain the purpose of the check valve. You say, "Instead of all the oil in the engine draining back into the filter...."
Please tell me you have since learned just how horribly wrong this explanation is.
For those with little time to spare, the short version goes like this:
1) What you say would defy the laws of physics. Oil is incompressible. If won't fit. I'll explain this in detail shortly
2) The purpose of the check valve is to prevent contaminated oil (already trapped inside the oil filter) from getting back into the engine when the engine is turned off. I'll explain this as well, if you have the time.
That's the short of it. Now, if you want me to elaborate, let's take these points one-by-one.
Let's begin by debunking this nonsense about "all the oil in the engine would drain into the oil filter when the engine turns off without that check valve".
Law of Physics: Oil is virtually incompressible. It can be pressurized, yes. But it cannot be compacted. Better yet, let's take a real-life example.
Take a Dodge 5.7 liter hemi engine. At every oil change, you fill it with seven quarts of motor oil, correct? So there are supposed to be SEVEN QUARTS of oil INSIDE the engine. The oil filter for that engine holds roughly one pint. You know this because some folks fill the brand new filter with oil before screwing it on. It takes roughly half a quart to fill the oil filter. Try as you might, you cannot (in any way) squeeze more than one pint of oil into the oil filter.
Now, let me let you in on a little secret for this oil change. I've sabotaged the oil filter. I secretly opened up the oil filter and took out the check valve before I welded the cover back on and filled it with oil and screwed it onto the Hemi. Let's run the engine and see what happens.
Engine runs just fine. The oil filter even cleans the oil just the way it is supposed to work. And all this happens without that check valve.
Now let me turn off the engine to see if your theory is correct about all the engine oil draining into the filter.
There! Engine is off. Let's wait a minute and check the dipstick.
Lo and behold! The dipstick reads NORMALLY! ZERO OIL LOSS!
How can this be? There is no check valve. I took it out.
Answer: Because the oil filter is already filled with oil. No more oil can fit inside the filter canister. Therefore all the oil that WAS in the engine STILL REMAINS in the engine, even without a check valve.
Wow! Amazing how science works.
But your theory is even funner because you forgot something vitally important to your theory.
There is a HOLE in the middle of both of those check valves you held up to the camera. That hole allows oil to pass FREELY between the engine and the INSIDE (the "discharge" port of the oil filter whether the engine is on or off. I'm talking the threaded hole, not the six or eight smaller holes arranged in a circle. So even if your claim was true, that particular device would not get the job done because of that HUGE GAPING HOLE IN THE MIDDLE.
So have I sufficiently debunked the nonsense in your video at the 2:43 mark?
So what is the true purpose of the check valve?
The check valve is there to prevent CONTAMINATED OIL (already trapped inside the periphery of oil filter canister) from leaking back into the engine in the wrong direction when the engine is shut off and the oil pump is asleep. That check valve made of rubber or silicone covers the six or eight small holes arranged in a circle. I.e., when the engine is turned off, the springiness of that valve presses down to seal up those six or eight holes to prevent contaminated oil from inside the dirty zone of the filter from mixing with engine oil.
When the engine is running, pressure from the oil pump forces the check valve to bend open by flexing. Oil can only move in one direction. It is forced into the filter through those six or eight small holes arranged in a circle. That lets the oil enter into the volume between the outside surface of the filter element and the inside surface of the metal canister. That area is VERY DIRTY because that's where all the nasty contaminants ACCUMULATE mile after mile after mile.
When the engine is running, oil flow PRESSES those contaminants up against the outside surface of the filter element. That's where they remain as long as the engine is running. But turn the engine off and many of those particles "fall" off the filter element and into the zone of dirty oil trapped between the element and the inner surface of the metal canister. If you leave your car parked for a week, that zone of oil will become saturated with particulates which detach from the filter element and re-suspend within the oil. This oil is MUCH, MUCH more contaminated than the oil in the engine. So you do not want for this oil to leak back into the engine when it is turned off. THAT is the purpose of the check valve.
If you did not have the check valve, that oil would leak out of the oil filter through those six or eight tiny holes arranged in a circle. This horribly contaminated oil would then mix (over time) with cleaner oil in the engine and much of that particulate matter that had been trapped inside the oil filter for thousands of miles would migrate back to the engine, undoing all the goodness of the oil filter.
Dange
I emailed them and for my particular filter if I went with the Boss, I was told it was 46 microns filtering and if I wanted to stop smaller particles go with the One. Since it's not as high of a milage filter, they said it was 21 to 25 micron for my particular filter I want to use. It seems some not all of them filter exactly the same I reckon. Believe it or not! If you need to know, email Purolator and they will respond and are very nice.
"To the the burst pressure on this..." :-D
If this shell would burst, something else probably blew up first under the hood!
you say CLASSIC for conventional/high mileage and ONE for high mileage and BOSS for full synthetic. Does this mean I shouldn't use ONE or BOSS for conventional?
“I don’t think.....I don’t know......I guess.” Not very authoritative and way, way too long a narrative. Waste of time.
efficiency at HOW MANY FUCKING MICRONS!!??
Percentages alone are useless!!!
Ummmm. The boss filter Does have a special polymer mesh backing on the media..... strong and sturdy. He missed that......
Helpful from from their office:
Boss 99% at 40 microns
One (blue) 99% at 20 microns
Purolator (Red) 96.5% at 20 microns
Taylor Strickler The Boss, the only high end model filter that has 40 at 99%. That stinks. If they'd get it down to 20, they'd probably have the best high end filter on the market. Until then, Fram Ultra Syn for me.
@@utahwanderlust700 That was my conclusion too. I've been using the Fram Ultra Syn on my 370Z since it was new and it is doing a great job of keeping the engine clean.
“One” seems like a great filter for a 99% at 20 microns at only $8-$10
@@videomaniac108 I’ve been curious about tryin out the FRAM ultra in my G37S. I usually use M1’s M-110 EP which is a tad larger than OEM but has the same thread pitch and diameter so if I can put a bigger filter on than why not especially since the filters on our VQ37VHR’s are so tiny
@@sk8punk318 I was thinking the same thing and would like to fit a taller filter on my Z if I could. The taller filter, with it's greater filtration area, may be what Mobil 1 is doing to compensate for a more restrictive filter that has superior filtration efficiency.
5:40 found an error, the bypass valve doesn’t open at all just because the media is clogged, that’s not how that works. Bypass valve on a oil filter is designed to open under a specified pressure to prevent the starvation of oil. Most Subaru and smaller high performance engines require 23-26 psi filters, and other engines tends to run between 12-18psi filters. So that’s why it’s important to mention each oil’s bypass pressure in order to understand if the oil will work with a certain car’s spec. This bypass valve is not performance related, but more designed for certain specifications. I believe older PureOne are only rated for 16psi while the new Purolators are 20-30psi. So for engines designed to use 12-18psi, this wouldn’t be the right filters to use because it may potentially starve the engine of oil. And vice versa, if you put a KNN oil filter in a Subaru WRX sti, it’s not going to filter anything for roughly 6-8psi range because Subarus are specified to use a much higher bypass pressure filter and the KNN bypass valve will be opened all the time once the engine operates at a pressure pass its limit.
I usually use the “One” on my wife’s Highlander and on my G37S I’ll either go with a M-110 M1 EP or a Purolator Boss.
Any idea what the efficiency micron rating of the Boss?
I noticed that Purolator rep didn't respond about the efficiency rating. Silence is golden, hmmmm. I still love the Boss. The Ultra is hard to beat. Price and Efficiency. Thanks for the review.....take care
I just bought one because of your review
They are well made. Cheers.
I used the cheap Purolator classic for sometime, and my truck hated me in the cold mornings. I will never go bottom tier, especially one's with rubber anti-drain back valve.
Thanks for the feedback!
Advanced runs a great deal of 5 qts of synthetic and boss filter for $29.95. Now it's Mobile1 and their best filter, plus a roll of shop towels.
They do. I just picked one up.
Saw then today at Menard's.
That's where I've been purchasing the One for my F150...Great price and value.
One gripe... Anti-drainback isnt so all the engine oil drains back into the filter... How can 5 quarts of oil drain into a 1 quart filter???? Stop saying that. It's there to prevent the oil in the filter from draining back into the engine, so the filter doesn't have to refill each time you start the engine.
LongRangeProductions
Stop pushing your bullshit... If the filter is on bottom of engine ...its really not doing shit anyways
RAM TRUCKS Lol yeah, how would the oil drain back into the engine if it's already at the bottom...
I've always found Purolator products to be of very good quality. 👍
Please do nissan filters
I had a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 that used the 14610. My 2013 uses a 14612
Purolator has a video on the burst pressure of the Boss filters, its over 600 psi.
Use the Purolator One 10,000 and change oil every 5000 miles.
Only a fool changes their oil every 15K!!!!!!!!!!
I'm no rocket surgeon but just saying, polyester is the definition of a synthetic material. Byproducts from oil and gas production polymerized....
Among all filters they categorize media via polyester, cellulose, a blend or synthetic. Just keeping things simple.
purolator doesn't make a one and boss for every vehicle
I like the Purolator one for the price.
I have seen most of your oil filter videos. I am totally sold on the Purolator. Thanks so much for helping me make up my mind. I am now Tim the Purolator Man.🚘💃
Thank you. I like Purolator as well.
At the time of writing this, Purolator has changed all of their 3 oil filter lineups (regular, ONE, and BOSS) to be rated at an extra 5,000 miles. So the regular is now rated at 10,000 mi, the ONE is rated at 15,000 mi, and the BOSS is rated at 20,000 mi. Would be nice to see an old vs new to see what changed to make them last an extra 5,000 mi.
Probably nothing changed. 🤣
Fortunately, I still have these filters in my shed. I will f/u and compare old vs new shortly.
Just bought a Purolator Air Filter A39155 and they are made in South Korea. NOT MADE IN USA.
Interesting. I've seen STP Oil Filters go this route as well. Appreciate the update.
Use the classic in my Subaru. Change it every 5k
What many videos do not show is how Motorcraft Filters are one of only few companies using a thread end bypass, Wix, Napa, and Royal Purple all had outstanding design and when they got bought out, the designs changed and in my opinion they are a cheap design. No longer made with highest quality. Royal Purple Filters, Napa Gold and Wix have all changed from a nice steel base plate with thread end bypass, Silicone ADBV, evenly spaced holes and steel coil spring, solid canister casing. It would be interesting comparison how they have changed. Now Purolator is better than those. I currently use Motorcraft although I know they use a leaf spring and the Purolator is a decent design, the Boss is nice and it shows filter media is better than Motorcraft. Not a fan of dome end bypass. Many new oil filters displayed in videos don't even come close to what RP and Napa Wix used to be years ago. The new ACDelco E core is an embarrassment. Why do these companies think they can change a proven design and still have a loyal following for a cheaper product. They must think customers don't notice. I expected K and N to be higher quality, the dome end bypass design is cheap and does not look built with durability.
There's way more going on inside of an oil filter than I thought
I really hope this makes sense to you because I'm butt fuckingly high right now
*Great oil filters they invented them anyway*
Your efficiency rating is missing the minimum micron captured. I thought I read the Pureone was 99% to 20 microns, the others I haven't found out.
First.. No question that Purolator makes great filters. However, If you think about it, the mileage ratings are just for reference. The number of miles traveled vs the volume of oil being pushed through the filter is impossible to accurately predict due to different GPM ratings between vehicle oil pump, moving vs idling ratios, etc. Of course, the higher the "mileage rating" the longer lasting the filter may be, BUT my vehicle's engine run time & oil volume flow over a 10k mile period will likely be significantly different than yours. (Not to mention it's a real bad idea to go beyond 5k miles between oil & filter changes on the typical daily driver vehicle.)
Looks like the classic filter is the same as the ONE except for silicone ADBV. I use the classic because I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles. That's around the mileage I can't see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. The oil has more life but not up to my standards. My mechanic burns the old oil for heat so he gets the old oil.
Apparently purolator has been having some quality control issues. Filter media being torn in manufacturing, the perforated tube in the center not allowing for any flow at all. I've read that these problems have been going on for quite a while without the manufacturer trying to fix the issue.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4302108/2
Exactly my thought. A low-end or no-name oil filter is good for 5000 miles. No more. If you run dino or semi oil and you have a clean engine, you don't need a pricier filter as long as your oil change interval is under 5000 miles. I have never had an engine that requires synthetic, but my thought is, use a low-end synthetic and change it more often, maybe even every 4000 miles. The price differential between dino, semi and low-end synthetic has just about disappeared. In fact, at this point all oil is semisynthetic to a degree because the carrier oil the additives come in is synthetic.
One more thing. I am now running full synthetic, high mileage oil. Would it still be ok to use the Boss or the One ? Any comments I would appreciate. Thanks to all.
purolator classic filter--magnatec full synthetic oil--4000 mile change-cost 26.00- do it myself-peace of mind--i cant go wrong
Good filters but WIX XP for me!
You can get a discount at Advanced Auto Parts if you go on line to buy. There is a savings code you put in when paying on line. Then just go in and they hand you your part. Usually 20 percent. No discount for battery's
Thanks for these oil filter videos. I enjoy yours more than some of the other folks. I plan on using the Boss next oil change I do. Been using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil in my car. I would to stay with a USA made filter. Thanks again my friend.
You missed one important detail:
Is the bypass relief valve using a "soft seat" or a "hard seat." The former refers to when an elastomer gasket-insert is used between the poppet and the plate to form a tight seal so that oil does not seep through when the valve is closed. A "hard seat" is an inferior metal-on-metal seal that always leaks to a certain degree allowing oil to bypass the filter element.
Good video. However, "rubber" is not a definitive description. It usually implies Natural Rubber which typically has no chemical resistance to motor oils. Synthetic elastomers vary greatly in chemical resistance. Some are very chemical resistant to motor oil other are not. Some have chemical resistance to motor as good as silicone formulations and may have better physical properties. Fluoroelastomers have very good oil resistance and high temp ratiings and they are usually black. So it is best to check with the mfg of the filter to determine the exact elastomer.
The best comparison video is here!
I've used the blue and black for a while now. Good filters as far as I know.
Very nicely constructed. I've never used them but I will in the future. Cheers.
Learn something new everyday. I always assumed the anti drain back valve was to keep oil IN the filter. Looking at the design of the anti drain back valve it would support oil from draining from anything uphill from the filter when the engine is off.
So my car was using synthetic blend with Honda oil filter. I am thinking of switching to full synthetic oil, will that Honda filter suffice or I need something different?
Do you happen to have the micron filtration rating for each of the filter media?
(or did I miss that?)
Thanks!
I use pennzoil ultra platinum in the summer with the purelator boss & valvoline advanced in the winter with the purelator one.
I have a good idea a anti drain back red silicone washer with a 3-5 psi coil spring under it for the anti drain back system.
My go to Filter! Purolator One filters are excellent. I got Nissan thats got over 200k. Oil is nice a clean! I also use Wix/Nissan OEM in my other car only because its under warranty.
I see NO advantage of "wire backing."
I use putolator and mobile 1 filters, neither one has your wire backing
This is true. To name a few, Wix XP, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Fram Pro Synthetic have wire backing.
Wire backing is better.
Jack Smith
Cuz they are both cheap. Mobil 1 doesn't make their own filters. They buy from Champion then slap on a Mobil 1 sticker then charge u twice as much
Wire backing pretty much a necessity with full synthetic media. Check any of them out. Cellulose and blend media don't need it.
@@CarsNToys On the purolator Boss you have the polymer mesh integrated into the media. Same, if not better than wire backing. From top to bottom purolator has the best filters.
One point not made correct me if I'm wrong, is that the Boss filter bottom hole floor is concaved (recessed) which allows a little more space between the filter floor and where it meets the car. This may allow optimum oil flow with the added space. IDK let me know what ya think.
Why i did not see this video before!! OMG
I pick up a boss filter and pick up a fram ultra, and boss feel more heavy and more heavy duty and feel more sturdy then the fram ultra, with discount code by buying online at advance auto part, its my only high end filter for now.
I love these videos. I have both the 1 & boss for both a 97' Rav4 & 01' Highlander.
I'm gonna use the ones & when I'm down to my last filter, which I hope I don't have to use. Imma use the boss as a "save the best for last" bought them all at Amazon once on sale. One was around 5-7. While boss was 11. Normally the one is like 7.20 & Boss is 13
Also for the rav4, I have the premium bosch oil filter as well. To me they're the same as the purolator 1. Kinda how like 7up & Sprite are.
I have a 2015 Chevy Impala limited LTZ with a direct injection motor and that drain back valve takes 3 hours, just to check the oil!!
that's how good it keeps the oil up into the head of the engine never had a filter like that in my life PS pain in the ass to check your oil up