Awesome! Thanks! Your doors were closest to what I had, and I also found the "458" rollers closest to what I had. They looked a fraction of an inch less "deep", but hey they fit, and my screws were actually in the right order. Only thing I did different, instead of tapping the whole frame up, I just tapped off the whole bottom portion. That way I only had to deal with the rubber at the bottom of the glass. My old roller brackets were NOT going to come out as easilly as yours did anyway. I have to put the bottom bracket in a vise to stabilize it while I worked on getting the old ones out. My biggest problem was that my whole door frame must be warped, because I pretty much needed a crowbar to lift the door high enough to get it out at the bottom, and had to repeat that to get it back in place. But wow! What a difference! The door actually keeps rolling now when I give it a push!
Thanks for this tip--this will make it a lot easier to clean the grease out of the bottom of the door that a previous owner or tenant had used instead of using silicone lube on the bearings or replacing the rollers as needed.
I fixed our rollers using your vid for guidance. I was also a bit nervous when banging the frame away from the glass. Your experience gave me the confidence to keep hitting! Thanks man.
Ok! So I can fix almost anything or noodle it out. I can't sort out my slider for love or money.... BUT, your video hold the most hope for my next (3rd) attempt to get the rollers out. Thank you for your realistic portrayal of the problem. (if I don't get this sorted soon and before the snow flies, my wife will call a repair guy to do it and I will die of shame. ;). ) Thank you for this offering!
I was able to replace both wheel sets on our Nu-Air SGDs. I was hopeful that I would NOT have to knock out the bottom sill to access the wheel assemblies.....but my doors required it. It all went well, no broken glass! I would like to have replaces the SGD weather stripping at the bottom; I went to two local glass companies but because NU-AIR went out of business years ago, none was found. I realized that the weather stripping didn't look so bad after all. Now that both wheel assemblies are replaced, the SGD operates SO NICELY , I found myself simply operating the SGD just because it slides SO EASILY! It's an easy job. Do it, save some money and stop listening to the grinding noise from your existing SGDs.
Thanks, my husband died and now I do everything by myself. I get what your saying about muscling open the door with both hands. Headed to home Depot, now if I can be strong enough to lift the door out of the frame!
Thanks for this how to video. It helped me a lot, saved me about $480 from having a servicer come out. Although my door was a pita that required me to modify the original roller. I couldn’t of done it without this video how to.
Excellent video. I have the same problem....been in the house 20 years and just recently, our most used SGD is starting to make noise. THinking about doing it myself......so in a day or so, I will remove one and look at how they are constructed. Thanks again..
I have these doors. I am very unhappy with the engineer who designed these doors, from the "dude that gets to replace the rollers 18 years later" perspective. Thank you for posting this video. The bearing assemblies in mine are completely trashed, with the seal and several ball bearings missing. The previous owners had used petroleum-based lube on the track and now the bottom of the door and its weatherstripping is a "torn CV joint boot" kind of dirty. Thanks to videos like this though, I think I can still salvage and refurbish the door instead of replacing it before I'm ready to upgrade.
Thanks this really helped my husband!! Especially the part in the middle about the screw!! A big thank yiu for leaving that part in! Especially since the stores an hour away one way!!
I ran into same problem as you did with the different wheels. I grabbed the bearings for mine just incase the new wheels don’t work. So i ended up taking my old bearings out and putting new bearing wheel in. Used old wheel fixture and it worked awesome. I think the correct wheel is 461 instead of 458 you got. Very simple once you know how it works.
You are not alone, I can't even count how many times I've said that exact statement. Are you F@!#$ Serious! Thanks for the video, it was exactly what I was looking for.
This video makes me miss my handyman husband even more. I am a widow in a house that's falling apart & taking on projects such as this (which I desperately need done) has proven to be a disaster! 🙃
Thanks great video. Mine was slightly different where there was another mounting screw on the inside of the frame (against the glass). Easy enough, just removed the whole bottom exposing the two extra screws. Also, couldn’t remove adjustment screws so I had to cut the door frame a little to be able to slide the new wheel assembly with adjustment screw in tact. Wouldn’t have tried it had it not been for your video. Thanks again!
I did this perhaps 10 years ago but forgot what I had to do thanks for your video it may not be exactly like my sliding door but it’s probably close. Yep it’s off to the big orange store or the big blue store.
2:35, “you gotta be fu...”!!!! Aaahahahaha! This is almost exactly what happened to me (and my reaction), hence why I’m here! Thanks for the video!!! 😂😂💦💦💦👌👌🙌
Yikes, was this door installed backwards or is that the way all sliding doors come out? You can just lift them out from the outside of the house? So burglars can just come and lift it off the track even if I've got a board wedged between the doors when I'm not home? 😮
I might test it. Ours has a metal pin that slides through both doors to lock it. I don’t think it’s possible to lift it up off the track with the pin in. You got me wondering though. Either way, if they make it that far, they’ll get to meet our German Shepherd lol.
What if the design does not allow the door to be lifted away from the track? Alternative Approach: Remove the mounting screws and tap the stile away from the door while still in the track. Replace the mounting screw into the roller assemble (just a few turns) in order to pry the roller away. If the lower frame has notches cut for the roller assembly to lock into place, this will require flaring the lower rail away from the roller assembly with two small screwdrivers wedged between the roller body and the door frame. It will then pry out with little effort. Spray glass cleaner on the rubber seal, if needed, to tap the stile back into place. The rubber seal can be pushed with a wood block in areas that it is not fully seated. Vinyl or fiberglass doors do not disassemble, and will require removal of the entire door as demonstrated in this video. If the track bead is damaged, address this before attempting the roller. Sill track covers can sometimes be installed with the door IN PLACE! Remove both stiles and slide it through the lower cavity. Track covers that screw into place are far superior to the ones that clip over the old bead. Clip on covers with fail and pop out of place on badly damaged tracks.
Usually patio doors have a stationary door and one that rolls I have never seen patio doors that both roll. So you can slide either door open. The reason I'm asking is how would you keep it from being broken into. I had some major problems when I bought a new door and the representative from the door company came out and when he inspected he said the company I had install the door didn't in stall it correctly and the stationary door was installed wrong and the screws where on the outside and anyone could take those screws out and get in to the house. The installer said the door rep was wrong and he installed everything correctly. The fix to that problem was to replace the screws with forever screws. The rep fixed the roller issue just an FYI don't have to take the door off if you pry the door up and there is enough room to remove the roller he stuck a 5 in one tool under the door and didn't have to remove it.
My heart stopped for a second when the drill was aimed at the glass. Don't ever do that. Knock off the bottom. Not the sides. Would have been much easier and safer. You could even take the whole rail to the store to verify fit before leaving.
Only one trip back to the store? Man, you are good.
You are not alone. Thank you for sharing this encouragement!
Awesome! Thanks! Your doors were closest to what I had, and I also found the "458" rollers closest to what I had. They looked a fraction of an inch less "deep", but hey they fit, and my screws were actually in the right order. Only thing I did different, instead of tapping the whole frame up, I just tapped off the whole bottom portion. That way I only had to deal with the rubber at the bottom of the glass. My old roller brackets were NOT going to come out as easilly as yours did anyway. I have to put the bottom bracket in a vise to stabilize it while I worked on getting the old ones out. My biggest problem was that my whole door frame must be warped, because I pretty much needed a crowbar to lift the door high enough to get it out at the bottom, and had to repeat that to get it back in place. But wow! What a difference! The door actually keeps rolling now when I give it a push!
Thanks for this tip--this will make it a lot easier to clean the grease out of the bottom of the door that a previous owner or tenant had used instead of using silicone lube on the bearings or replacing the rollers as needed.
I fixed our rollers using your vid for guidance. I was also a bit nervous when banging the frame away from the glass. Your experience gave me the confidence to keep hitting! Thanks man.
EXTREMELY helpful, practical, and real DIY video. And funny! You really should do more of these.
THIS IS A MILLION DOLLAR VIDEO, HUGS HONEY!!!
Ok! So I can fix almost anything or noodle it out. I can't sort out my slider for love or money.... BUT, your video hold the most hope for my next (3rd) attempt to get the rollers out. Thank you for your realistic portrayal of the problem. (if I don't get this sorted soon and before the snow flies, my wife will call a repair guy to do it and I will die of shame. ;). ) Thank you for this offering!
I was able to replace both wheel sets on our Nu-Air SGDs. I was hopeful that I would NOT have to knock out the bottom sill to access the wheel assemblies.....but my doors required it. It all went well, no broken glass! I would like to have replaces the SGD weather stripping at the bottom; I went to two local glass companies but because NU-AIR went out of business years ago, none was found. I realized that the weather stripping didn't look so bad after all.
Now that both wheel assemblies are replaced, the SGD operates SO NICELY , I found myself simply operating the SGD just because it slides SO EASILY!
It's an easy job. Do it, save some money and stop listening to the grinding noise from your existing SGDs.
Thanks, my husband died and now I do everything by myself. I get what your saying about muscling open the door with both hands. Headed to home Depot, now if I can be strong enough to lift the door out of the frame!
Thanks for this how to video. It helped me a lot, saved me about $480 from having a servicer come out. Although my door was a pita that required me to modify the original roller. I couldn’t of done it without this video how to.
Glad it helped!
You are NOT alone! I thought it was just me! Thank you!
Great Vid!
The rollers being $5 each, I would buy another set, squirrel them away.
Now you're good for the next 60 years.
Excellent video. I have the same problem....been in the house 20 years and just recently, our most used SGD is starting to make noise. THinking about doing it myself......so in a day or so, I will remove one and look at how they are constructed. Thanks again..
I have these doors. I am very unhappy with the engineer who designed these doors, from the "dude that gets to replace the rollers 18 years later" perspective. Thank you for posting this video. The bearing assemblies in mine are completely trashed, with the seal and several ball bearings missing. The previous owners had used petroleum-based lube on the track and now the bottom of the door and its weatherstripping is a "torn CV joint boot" kind of dirty. Thanks to videos like this though, I think I can still salvage and refurbish the door instead of replacing it before I'm ready to upgrade.
Thanks this really helped my husband!!
Especially the part in the middle about the screw!! A big thank yiu for leaving that part in! Especially since the stores an hour away one way!!
I ran into same problem as you did with the different wheels. I grabbed the bearings for mine just incase the new wheels don’t work. So i ended up taking my old bearings out and putting new bearing wheel in. Used old wheel fixture and it worked awesome. I think the correct wheel is 461 instead of 458 you got. Very simple once you know how it works.
Getting ready to replace my rollers. Thanks for posting!! good job :)
I hit the subscribe button as soon as you said " you gotta be f#@%ing kidding me" .....you're not alone.
lol! Appreciate it
That was awesome. You are a great technical presenter. Im going to be brave now
You are not alone, I can't even count how many times I've said that exact statement. Are you F@!#$ Serious! Thanks for the video, it was exactly what I was looking for.
This video makes me miss my handyman husband even more. I am a widow in a house that's falling apart & taking on projects such as this (which I desperately need done) has proven to be a disaster! 🙃
I do not know where you are at however I would be willing to give you a hand.
@@Flipflopgurl388 that is very kind! I am in New Jersey.
Thanks great video. Mine was slightly different where there was another mounting screw on the inside of the frame (against the glass). Easy enough, just removed the whole bottom exposing the two extra screws. Also, couldn’t remove adjustment screws so I had to cut the door frame a little to be able to slide the new wheel assembly with adjustment screw in tact. Wouldn’t have tried it had it not been for your video. Thanks again!
Very helpful, now I know what to expect. Thank you.
Great video! Couldn’t find any answers that had the same door! Mine is sagging somehow so there is a gap at the top. Hoping new rollers fix it?!
Tutorial is clear and crisp. Thanks.
I did this perhaps 10 years ago but forgot what I had to do thanks for your video it may not be exactly like my sliding door but it’s probably close. Yep it’s off to the big orange store or the big blue store.
Thanks everyone for your help,I have 3 of these doors to do and hope this goes well ,eventually there going
Informative and funny.
Glad you enjoyed it
2:35, “you gotta be fu...”!!!! Aaahahahaha! This is almost exactly what happened to me (and my reaction), hence why I’m here! Thanks for the video!!! 😂😂💦💦💦👌👌🙌
I wish you could be my handyman...great video, but I guess I have to pay someone for this job 😭
Awesome. Thank you. I’m ready to tackle my door now.
Excellent work-around.
Thanks. I have the same setup and thought I was breaking the frame.
Good to know i'm not alone in having to do at least 2 trips to get the right parts ..
Well described , many thanks for the video
I've done that. Parts look exactly right to me.
Thanx son great content helped me a lot mike Scotland
Glad you got it fixed up 🏴
thanks for the video very helpful.
Excellent job well done
Thanks. Looks nearly identical to my doors
Yeah I think they’re pretty common. Good luck with your project.
great video. such a good dog!
Great video
Super helpful and funny 😄
Glad to help!
Well done : )
This is every project I do on the house. There's always a landmine
The house was built on a minefield I swear 🤣
Yikes, was this door installed backwards or is that the way all sliding doors come out? You can just lift them out from the outside of the house? So burglars can just come and lift it off the track even if I've got a board wedged between the doors when I'm not home? 😮
I might test it. Ours has a metal pin that slides through both doors to lock it. I don’t think it’s possible to lift it up off the track with the pin in. You got me wondering though.
Either way, if they make it that far, they’ll get to meet our German Shepherd lol.
Good job learn a lot
Thanks helped a lot
What if the design does not allow the door to be lifted away from the track?
Alternative Approach:
Remove the mounting screws and tap the stile away from the door while still in the track. Replace the mounting screw into the roller assemble (just a few turns) in order to pry the roller away. If the lower frame has notches cut for the roller assembly to lock into place, this will require flaring the lower rail away from the roller assembly with two small screwdrivers wedged between the roller body and the door frame. It will then pry out with little effort. Spray glass cleaner on the rubber seal, if needed, to tap the stile back into place. The rubber seal can be pushed with a wood block in areas that it is not fully seated.
Vinyl or fiberglass doors do not disassemble, and will require removal of the entire door as demonstrated in this video.
If the track bead is damaged, address this before attempting the roller. Sill track covers can sometimes be installed with the door IN PLACE! Remove both stiles and slide it through the lower cavity. Track covers that screw into place are far superior to the ones that clip over the old bead. Clip on covers with fail and pop out of place on badly damaged tracks.
Usually patio doors have a stationary door and one that rolls I have never seen patio doors that both roll. So you can slide either door open. The reason I'm asking is how would you keep it from being broken into. I had some major problems when I bought a new door and the representative from the door company came out and when he inspected he said the company I had install the door didn't in stall it correctly and the stationary door was installed wrong and the screws where on the outside and anyone could take those screws out and get in to the house. The installer said the door rep was wrong and he installed everything correctly. The fix to that problem was to replace the screws with forever screws. The rep fixed the roller issue just an FYI don't have to take the door off if you pry the door up and there is enough room to remove the roller he stuck a 5 in one tool under the door and didn't have to remove it.
Excellent!
You cold have bought a roller with the adjustment screw in the right position. Two different ones exists...
2:36 😆🤣😆 Love it!
Were there any rollers on the second door that you removed?
Wait! Both your doors roll/move?!?
Dude.. You just take the bottom frame off, why would you hammer the top and side frame off when you could just take one off? lmao
Dog definitely helped
How to contact
Much easier to pry just the whole bottom off the frame. It goes back on easy.
Do you just use screw driver to pry? Or something bigger?
Good
Good doggie😂
Sorry but us short people can't pick it up and my arms are not that strong?
My heart stopped for a second when the drill was aimed at the glass.
Don't ever do that.
Knock off the bottom. Not the sides.
Would have been much easier and safer.
You could even take the whole rail to the store to verify fit before leaving.
How do you knock the bottom off?
Why would you go through all this trouble to install the incorrect rollers?