Thank you for sharing your experiences. I am doing a lot of research on the Olympus OM-1. I recently found an Olympus OM-1 in an abandoned house because it was hit by a flood. The camera was submerged in muddy water, and consequently there is mud inside it and nothing works. I will have to open it very carefully, clean the dirt and then replace parts if necessary, and then lubricate it during reassembly and adjustment with calibrations. I accepted the challenge because I like restoring old watches, this is my big hobby (restoring old watches), but this is the first time I have held an analog camera in my hands. Since I have tools, resources and watchmaker lubricants, I challenged myself to restore the camera, its 50mm lens and its flash, along with the leather case it was in. Your video served as a basis for the knowledge I need to accumulate to finally start the restoration. If you can give me some tips, of course I will be very happy to receive them. Thank you very much! I wish you success and prosperity in your life.
First, let me thank you for writing your kind words. When you wrote about an OM-1 that had been subjected to muddy water, I could visualize it because I've seen something similar before: About 40 years ago, a friend's brought me his water damaged OM-2. Back then, very few camera repair shops would touch a water-damaged camera and fewer would guarantee their work. We took the baseplate off the bottom of the camera and there was both silt and rust everywhere. Eventually, he was forced to replace the camera though I think he was able to salvage the lens. If you are hoping to get this OM-1 working properly again, I think you have your work cut out for you! I don't mean to discourage; I want to be honest. Everything will need to be meticulously disassembled, examined, cleaned, dried and lubricated. And then you'll have to get it back together. I can tell you without question that I couldn't do it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner would help; it certainly does with corroded electronics. If you're not experienced with camera CLA, this is probably not the best project to begin your journey with. What I did with one of my OM-1's winding mechanism would be child's play compared to repairing a water damaged OM-1. Of course you'll need the right tools and that's much more than just spanner wrenches and JIS screw drivers. Repairing the Electronic flash (hopefully, it's an original Olympus flash) will probably be the easiest project. I can't even imagine what the lens repair will look like. My expertise does not lie in camera repair. I would consider myself an early beginner. However, there are Masters on RUclips well worth subscribing to. I subscribe to @FilmCamera_Vlog and @FixOldCameras and I would recommend that you check them out. You will absolutely need exploded diagrams and manuals. If you e-mail me (check for information about my channel, it's there somewhere) I will send you what I've got on the OM-1 or you can try your luck with Google. I wish you best of luck, and thank you so much for watching my videos and sharing your story.
While Olympus made a "special tool" to remove the wind lever retaining cap, the "factory method" was to use a large rubber stopper. Simple, no scratches. The difficulty with opening the back latch is due to your method of placing a tool between the "legs", or fork, of the rewind shaft to unscrew the rewind knob. This is an Olympus "no-no"! Olympus made another tool of white nylon to safely hold the flat sides of the "forks" to avoid damaging the rounded sides of the shaft, or spread the legs themselves. Again, this tool was a waste of time for factory techs. We simply grasped the forks by their flat sides with needle nose and unscrewed the knob. You will need to either gently and carefully bend the forks so they are straight, and/or inspect the sides of the forks for dimples from the tool you placed between the legs, and if they are present, shave them smooth with a X-Acto style blade. When properly set, the shaft should lift easily and return to it's latched position under it's own power -- no push or pressing should be necessary for the latch to fall into it's closed position. Also, NEVER glue down the leatherette over the back latch without first covering the end plate (the part that covers the latch) with tape! Glue, especially super-style glue, will enter the cavity of the latch, effectively gluing the back latch closed! It is good practice to clean the hot shoe port with a point of cleaning tissue whenever the hot shoe is removed. On numerous occasions, a tiny sliver of metal from the threads has been known to fall into the opening, shorting the X-contact. Of course, you guessed it, Olympus made a special tool to screw into the port to ream it out, but again, this was largely unnecessary -- simply cleaning prevents or solves the problem.
I will need you around if/when I try to fix one of my Olympus cameras! 😊 Opening up my OM-1 was a learning experience and I wish it had been under the guidance of an expert. Thank you so much for your pointers. If you have a youtube channel yourself on Olympus camera repair, I would certainly subscribe. And if you have any channels you would recommend, I would be in your debt.
Thank you. Yup, my stomach dropped on that one. But I decided to include it in the video so people could see how easily accidents can and do happen even to those who are trying to be careful.
It’s funny that you say that. I was expecting to see lots of disintegrating foam but there wasn’t any. But I know where that camera has been: In storage since before 2003 like my other film camera equipment. Unless I have foam-eating mice who are also trained in assembling and reassembling vintage cameras, the foam must have been removed before then, or was never there in the first place. I’m not overjoyed with the prospect of having to open up my other OM- film cameras, at least not until I can improve my skills and knowledge.
Rest assured Mr. Brown’s Basement (and Mr. Brown’s nearby porch) are safe from Musk Rat’s evil clutches. Don’t worry about Twitter’s bid. If Twitter paid out Elon’s best offer (the 1970 price hockey cards with an enclosed stick of stale bubble gum) it would push Twitter over the edge into chapter 11 bankruptcy.
I was recently told that the black disk that I scratched (😕) can be easily lifted with alcohol. When I summon the courage to try again, I have 2 OM-1’s that need the foam removed from their pentaprisms. It’s worth a try, and I hope it’s true. If so, it may help to improve your score… and mine!
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
I am doing a lot of research on the Olympus OM-1.
I recently found an Olympus OM-1 in an abandoned house because it was hit by a flood. The camera was submerged in muddy water, and consequently there is mud inside it and nothing works.
I will have to open it very carefully, clean the dirt and then replace parts if necessary, and then lubricate it during reassembly and adjustment with calibrations.
I accepted the challenge because I like restoring old watches, this is my big hobby (restoring old watches), but this is the first time I have held an analog camera in my hands. Since I have tools, resources and watchmaker lubricants, I challenged myself to restore the camera, its 50mm lens and its flash, along with the leather case it was in.
Your video served as a basis for the knowledge I need to accumulate to finally start the restoration.
If you can give me some tips, of course I will be very happy to receive them.
Thank you very much!
I wish you success and prosperity in your life.
First, let me thank you for writing your kind words.
When you wrote about an OM-1 that had been subjected to muddy water, I could visualize it because I've seen something similar before: About 40 years ago, a friend's brought me his water damaged OM-2. Back then, very few camera repair shops would touch a water-damaged camera and fewer would guarantee their work. We took the baseplate off the bottom of the camera and there was both silt and rust everywhere. Eventually, he was forced to replace the camera though I think he was able to salvage the lens. If you are hoping to get this OM-1 working properly again, I think you have your work cut out for you! I don't mean to discourage; I want to be honest. Everything will need to be meticulously disassembled, examined, cleaned, dried and lubricated. And then you'll have to get it back together. I can tell you without question that I couldn't do it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner would help; it certainly does with corroded electronics. If you're not experienced with camera CLA, this is probably not the best project to begin your journey with. What I did with one of my OM-1's winding mechanism would be child's play compared to repairing a water damaged OM-1. Of course you'll need the right tools and that's much more than just spanner wrenches and JIS screw drivers. Repairing the Electronic flash (hopefully, it's an original Olympus flash) will probably be the easiest project. I can't even imagine what the lens repair will look like.
My expertise does not lie in camera repair. I would consider myself an early beginner. However, there are Masters on RUclips well worth subscribing to. I subscribe to @FilmCamera_Vlog and @FixOldCameras and I would recommend that you check them out. You will absolutely need exploded diagrams and manuals. If you e-mail me (check for information about my channel, it's there somewhere) I will send you what I've got on the OM-1 or you can try your luck with Google.
I wish you best of luck, and thank you so much for watching my videos and sharing your story.
While Olympus made a "special tool" to remove the wind lever retaining cap, the "factory method" was to use a large rubber stopper. Simple, no scratches.
The difficulty with opening the back latch is due to your method of placing a tool between the "legs", or fork, of the rewind shaft to unscrew the rewind knob. This is an Olympus "no-no"! Olympus made another tool of white nylon to safely hold the flat sides of the "forks" to avoid damaging the rounded sides of the shaft, or spread the legs themselves. Again, this tool was a waste of time for factory techs. We simply grasped the forks by their flat sides with needle nose and unscrewed the knob. You will need to either gently and carefully bend the forks so they are straight, and/or inspect the sides of the forks for dimples from the tool you placed between the legs, and if they are present, shave them smooth with a X-Acto style blade. When properly set, the shaft should lift easily and return to it's latched position under it's own power -- no push or pressing should be necessary for the latch to fall into it's closed position.
Also, NEVER glue down the leatherette over the back latch without first covering the end plate (the part that covers the latch) with tape! Glue, especially super-style glue, will enter the cavity of the latch, effectively gluing the back latch closed!
It is good practice to clean the hot shoe port with a point of cleaning tissue whenever the hot shoe is removed. On numerous occasions, a tiny sliver of metal from the threads has been known to fall into the opening, shorting the X-contact. Of course, you guessed it, Olympus made a special tool to screw into the port to ream it out, but again, this was largely unnecessary -- simply cleaning prevents or solves the problem.
I will need you around if/when I try to fix one of my Olympus cameras! 😊 Opening up my OM-1 was a learning experience and I wish it had been under the guidance of an expert. Thank you so much for your pointers. If you have a youtube channel yourself on Olympus camera repair, I would certainly subscribe. And if you have any channels you would recommend, I would be in your debt.
Excellent video, really enjoyed watching it.
Thank you so much for your compliment. It's gratifying to know that my videos are being watched and enjoyed.
Great video! Too bad about the small scratch 😢
Thank you. Yup, my stomach dropped on that one. But I decided to include it in the video so people could see how easily accidents can and do happen even to those who are trying to be careful.
Someone has cleaned the prism foam already. That needs to be cleaned before damage to the prisim is done.
It’s funny that you say that. I was expecting to see lots of disintegrating foam but there wasn’t any. But I know where that camera has been: In storage since before 2003 like my other film camera equipment. Unless I have foam-eating mice who are also trained in assembling and reassembling vintage cameras, the foam must have been removed before then, or was never there in the first place. I’m not overjoyed with the prospect of having to open up my other OM- film cameras, at least not until I can improve my skills and knowledge.
Is Mr. Brown’s Portch acquiring Mr. Brown’s Basement? I’d heard Twitter was going to make a bid for it.
Rest assured Mr. Brown’s Basement (and Mr. Brown’s nearby porch) are safe from Musk Rat’s evil clutches. Don’t worry about Twitter’s bid. If Twitter paid out Elon’s best offer (the 1970 price hockey cards with an enclosed stick of stale bubble gum) it would push Twitter over the edge into chapter 11 bankruptcy.
The scratches tell me which camera I did the foam cleaning on. I am 0 for 6 they seem to all get scratched.
I was recently told that the black disk that I scratched (😕) can be easily lifted with alcohol. When I summon the courage to try again, I have 2 OM-1’s that need the foam removed from their pentaprisms. It’s worth a try, and I hope it’s true. If so, it may help to improve your score… and mine!