I took the top plate off my om-1 to remove the viewfinder foam, and the screw on the wind lever was difficult to remove on mine too. I ended up super glueing a nut to the screw so I had something to grab with pliers. Turned out there wasn't any foam anyway.
Very good idea actually. I've got a couple of spare OM-2 cameras that I keep for parts and I keep meaning to replace that portion but have yet to do so. I might use your technique while I've got the lever off.
Great video ! Thank you Adam. My viewfinder was in terrible condition because of foam piece stucked between it and the pentaprism, now it's looking perfect but the focus mirror is a little bit damaged. Still possible to take picture but a bit sad
@@AdamWelch It seems that there are a little bit of scratches on the surface that face the reflective mirror (the inner face). The other side that face the pentaprism looks good in my opinion. There was a lot of dust in the camera (gave to me after having slept for 15 years in a wooden box on an island in the Caribbean) and the lens is in terrible condition (scratches, no caps, dust and fungi : combo !) . I haven't noticed the traces on the focusing mirror, it may be a consequence of the storage or mine when a manipulated it. Dunno 🤷🏻 But it's ok I can take photos with it and I have done it. It's more cosmetic. Do you have in case a specific website or refurbisher to buy that kind of pieces ?
@@Delmonteil I agree that the reflex mirror being a bit blemished is annoying but as you say not something that HAS to be fixed. I definitely understand your pain however. I don't know where you're located but really the best route for spare parts in my opinion is to locate non-functioning models of the camera to be used as a "parts body." I generally have at least one non-working spare model of all my film cameras just for this purpose. Most non-working film cameras can be had extremely cheap from eBay if you are willing to do a bit of digging. Quite often cheaper than locating specific parts separately. I'll also add that I have never attempted to replace a reflex mirror on any SLR personally. While I love to tinker and do my own repairs (obviously) there could be issues focusing that might be better in the long run to have a professional fix. Just a random bit of opinion :)
Love this video. I recently got my hands on my great-grandfather's OM2. I need to give it a bit of a cleanup and change the light seals so this video has been super helpful. One question though, what thickness yarn did you use? and same for the adhesive felt? Is there a certain type of felt you'd recommend? Thanks!
Awesome! The yarn I used is 3.5oz weight. It works great in the Olympus but I think if I had it to do over I might have went with a 4oz weight. The only reason being that I think the thicker yarn would still fit fine and it would be even more robust. As for the felt, I have no idea about how the thickness for that is even graded. My felt doesn't even have and indications for thickness. I will say that when it comes to the mirror cushioning the thicker the better (within reason).
Oh and something to add. Be especially mindful that you don't get any of the yarn intruding on the frame counter latch (the little gold looking thing at the top right of the top channel). I ended up having a TINY bit of excess yarn work it's way beneath the latch and it wouldn't allow the counter to reset properly. Once I trimmed it everything worked perfect.
@@simon.revill Very interesting idea but it's surprising just how well the yarn has stayed in place/not frayed. The only spot I'd be concerned with is of course the film reset port. I'm just not sure about putting anysort of wax there as it would likely be a dust magnet. However, possibly a small dab of glue? Like I said very good idea but at this point it might not be needed. I'll note that it's interesting how one of the things which gave me the idea for these types of "permanent" seals was my Zorki 4K, which used small diameter nylon twine, not cotton yarn, that was actually glued to the camera.
Hi there, many thanks for your video. Could you give me the measure for the foams near the door (11'25'') and the foam for the door seals (12'22) ? thank you very much !
It's called a "spanner wrench". This is the one I use amzn.to/3qzgdzz but I'll say that I also fashioned a small set out a $1.99 pair of tweezers and that's what I use for 99% of small jobs like this now ha
Hello, this is an awesome video and will help me clean up this OM1 I just got. I do have a question though. My shutter advance lever doesn't snap back into place as it should. It works but I have to manually push it back. Maybe the inner of the lever needs cleaning? Does anybody have any knowledge of this problem?
@@AngeloHinojosa Here's a link to a video where I replace the seals on a Nikon F3. It's a much more in-depth look at the process and the technique is virtually identical. I got all my materials locally but I've linked to similar stuff in the description. Oh and the crank assembly just likely is a little gunked up and that could be making the lever stick open. Is it loose when you manually force it back to the start position or is it firm? I'm glad you liked the video! ruclips.net/video/dNP3h_iYysM/видео.html
@@AdamWelch Yeah even when I manually put it back it's still loose. There's a little firmness but it should be firm enough to snap all the way back to start position right? Which it doesn't do
It's normal for it not to go all the way back. It should stay back maybe a half an inch naturally after each throw unless you push it all the way back to the start position.
@@AdamWelch I sat here for a bit and I just kept winding it and shooting it and winding again and I think it just needed to be moved around. I just got it the other day I assume it was sitting for a long time but it’s actually acting normal now. Thanks for the help
Hard to say. All I've essentially done here is replace the seals and clean it up a bit. A full CLA (clean/lube/adjust) done by a professional would probably hover around $100-$150 depending on the area. They would likely replace the seals with foam, however.
Damaging the plastic in the wind lever is normal, I damaged mine too in my Olympus OM-2. Nice vid!
Nice trick using yarn for light seal! So helpful
Glad to hear it!
Thanks, I will be doing this soon to my OM1 👍
Awesome! Hope it goes well for you.
I took the top plate off my om-1 to remove the viewfinder foam, and the screw on the wind lever was difficult to remove on mine too. I ended up super glueing a nut to the screw so I had something to grab with pliers. Turned out there wasn't any foam anyway.
Very good idea actually. I've got a couple of spare OM-2 cameras that I keep for parts and I keep meaning to replace that portion but have yet to do so. I might use your technique while I've got the lever off.
Great video ! Thank you Adam. My viewfinder was in terrible condition because of foam piece stucked between it and the pentaprism, now it's looking perfect but the focus mirror is a little bit damaged. Still possible to take picture but a bit sad
Great to hear about your fix on the prism but sorry to find out about your mirror! What's the nature of the damage on the mirror?
@@AdamWelch It seems that there are a little bit of scratches on the surface that face the reflective mirror (the inner face). The other side that face the pentaprism looks good in my opinion.
There was a lot of dust in the camera (gave to me after having slept for 15 years in a wooden box on an island in the Caribbean) and the lens is in terrible condition (scratches, no caps, dust and fungi : combo !) . I haven't noticed the traces on the focusing mirror, it may be a consequence of the storage or mine when a manipulated it. Dunno 🤷🏻
But it's ok I can take photos with it and I have done it. It's more cosmetic. Do you have in case a specific website or refurbisher to buy that kind of pieces ?
@@Delmonteil I agree that the reflex mirror being a bit blemished is annoying but as you say not something that HAS to be fixed. I definitely understand your pain however.
I don't know where you're located but really the best route for spare parts in my opinion is to locate non-functioning models of the camera to be used as a "parts body." I generally have at least one non-working spare model of all my film cameras just for this purpose. Most non-working film cameras can be had extremely cheap from eBay if you are willing to do a bit of digging. Quite often cheaper than locating specific parts separately. I'll also add that I have never attempted to replace a reflex mirror on any SLR personally. While I love to tinker and do my own repairs (obviously) there could be issues focusing that might be better in the long run to have a professional fix. Just a random bit of opinion :)
@@AdamWelchI think it's the focusing-screen?
They are plastic and scratch VERY easily.
It is still possible to find replacements.
Love this video. I recently got my hands on my great-grandfather's OM2. I need to give it a bit of a cleanup and change the light seals so this video has been super helpful. One question though, what thickness yarn did you use? and same for the adhesive felt? Is there a certain type of felt you'd recommend? Thanks!
Awesome! The yarn I used is 3.5oz weight. It works great in the Olympus but I think if I had it to do over I might have went with a 4oz weight. The only reason being that I think the thicker yarn would still fit fine and it would be even more robust. As for the felt, I have no idea about how the thickness for that is even graded. My felt doesn't even have and indications for thickness. I will say that when it comes to the mirror cushioning the thicker the better (within reason).
Oh and something to add. Be especially mindful that you don't get any of the yarn intruding on the frame counter latch (the little gold looking thing at the top right of the top channel). I ended up having a TINY bit of excess yarn work it's way beneath the latch and it wouldn't allow the counter to reset properly. Once I trimmed it everything worked perfect.
@@AdamWelch Thank you!!!
@@AdamWelchI wonder if sealing the end of the yarn with wax or something will prevent stray yarn getting into places it shouldn’t?
@@simon.revill Very interesting idea but it's surprising just how well the yarn has stayed in place/not frayed. The only spot I'd be concerned with is of course the film reset port. I'm just not sure about putting anysort of wax there as it would likely be a dust magnet. However, possibly a small dab of glue? Like I said very good idea but at this point it might not be needed. I'll note that it's interesting how one of the things which gave me the idea for these types of "permanent" seals was my Zorki 4K, which used small diameter nylon twine, not cotton yarn, that was actually glued to the camera.
Thank you for this really good informative video, I own and use an OM-1, that I use a lot.
My pleasure, Pedro! I'm glad you enjoyed it. This is the first time I've handled an OM if you can believe it but I'm instantly in love.
@@AdamWelch I have Pentax and Nikon and bought the OM-1 after reading about it and fell in love because the camera is the child of both cameras.
Well done.
Hey I saw that the black piece on the shutter advance come off, that happened to me too. What kind of glue did you use to put it back on?
Just some generic super glue. I'm sure that as a bit overkill but it was all I had on hand at the time.
The foam on the prisim will also etch the prisim, remove all of it and do not place any sticky glue foam on it as it may remove the prisim coating.
Hi there, many thanks for your video. Could you give me the measure for the foams near the door (11'25'') and the foam for the door seals (12'22) ? thank you very much !
Sorry, I don't have those measurements. I didn't use the foam seals and just cut the new felt seals by eye.
@@AdamWelch No worries. I finished my restoration due to your video, thanks again ! :)
Really good helpful video, thanks
Why there is no link to buy the leather for light sealing?
There is no leather for the light seals.
Great work
Thanks, man! I'm going to put up a few more detailed shorts dedicated to the light seal replacement on a couple other SLR's.
what tools called the one you used for release the lever advance lever sir?
It's called a "spanner wrench". This is the one I use amzn.to/3qzgdzz but I'll say that I also fashioned a small set out a $1.99 pair of tweezers and that's what I use for 99% of small jobs like this now ha
@@AdamWelch thank you sir
Hello, this is an awesome video and will help me clean up this OM1 I just got. I do have a question though. My shutter advance lever doesn't snap back into place as it should. It works but I have to manually push it back. Maybe the inner of the lever needs cleaning? Does anybody have any knowledge of this problem?
Also, can you provide a link to the felt you used if you got it online?
@@AngeloHinojosa Here's a link to a video where I replace the seals on a Nikon F3. It's a much more in-depth look at the process and the technique is virtually identical. I got all my materials locally but I've linked to similar stuff in the description. Oh and the crank assembly just likely is a little gunked up and that could be making the lever stick open. Is it loose when you manually force it back to the start position or is it firm? I'm glad you liked the video! ruclips.net/video/dNP3h_iYysM/видео.html
@@AdamWelch Yeah even when I manually put it back it's still loose. There's a little firmness but it should be firm enough to snap all the way back to start position right? Which it doesn't do
It's normal for it not to go all the way back. It should stay back maybe a half an inch naturally after each throw unless you push it all the way back to the start position.
@@AdamWelch I sat here for a bit and I just kept winding it and shooting it and winding again and I think it just needed to be moved around. I just got it the other day I assume it was sitting for a long time but it’s actually acting normal now. Thanks for the help
And what to do if the damage is INSIDE the prism?
@@aunvamak1375 Get an undamaged prism.
avrei visto volentieri lo smontaggio dell' obbiettivo , grazie , ripresa eccellente ,molto bravo. , t
Grazie mille per le belle parole Da allora ho venduto l'intero corredo fotografico, che ci crediate o no. Mi manca un po' la mia attrezzatura Olympus.
What’s the average cost to refurbish an OM1 like this?
Hard to say. All I've essentially done here is replace the seals and clean it up a bit. A full CLA (clean/lube/adjust) done by a professional would probably hover around $100-$150 depending on the area. They would likely replace the seals with foam, however.