Which anti sway bar is that in the rear? Also do you think there is any spray lube that will work to loosen up those clips (the part you did off camera)?
APR Tuning used to make sway bars but they stopped offering them. Yeah, any kind of silicon spray works pretty well. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Great video! I currently have a 2010 Volkswagen CC. Recently I replaced the chain tensioner (due to a P0016) started the vehicle for the fire time and at cold start it seemed to be running normal but when the engine settled down, it started misfiring and just stalled completely. I hooked up VCDS and I got a P0300 and P1250. I checked fuel rail pressure specified (70bat) and actual is (89bar). As far as my understanding, that eliminates a potential faulty HPFP. Could a fuel filter be the issue in my case? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
Sounds like you may have a few different issues. P0016- something with the timing. Timing off, intake camshaft spool valve, intake camshaft/adjuster, low oil, etc. P0300- Could be related to P0016 or P1250. P1250- Could be low fuel or a faulty level sensor at the low pressure fuel pump in the tank. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsGarageOfBlue on the first start after the timing chain tensioner replacement (updated tensioner). I made sure to erase all the DTCs before first start up. It started right up and at cold start it sounded “ok” but I could tell it was misfiring a little. After the cold start the RPMS settled and the car started to really have a rough idle which resulted in a stall. I immediately scanned for codes and it had that P1250 and P0300. At the time of the first crank I had 10 miles before empty on the tank. So I figured I would put some fresh 93 octane to start diagnosing. After fresh gas, vehicle still throws P1250 and stalls if I don’t press the gas to try to keep her alive haha. I checked the fuel rail pressure on VCDS and the specified is 70bar and actual is 89bar. Which my understanding, that eliminated a bad HPFP. Correct?
@@ivanvega2821 Sounds like your low pressure pump is dying. I would hook up a fuel gauge and check the low pressure being supplied to the engine. There is a quick disconnect on the passenger back corner of the engine bay where you can plug in. Should expect to see 5-7 bar. If you’re not getting that I would start with replacing the low pressure fuel pump and the control module that sits right on top of it. Pretty common for both of those to go bad, especially on the earlier years like you have.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue I just turned on the car this morning and I decided to unhook the intake manifold hose that goes to the PCV valve. At the manifold hole, I put my thumb and told my buddy to turn in the car. The vehicle started and idled 200% better. I than decided to remove the PCV system so I could suck and blow inside of it to see if the PCV valve was faulty. I was able to suck and was not able to blow in, which my understanding this means it’s a good PCV system. Why was the car running fine when u plugged the intake manifold hole with my thumb 🧐
@@ivanvega2821 I’ve never seen a faulty PCV cause those faults. It’s a possible coincidence that your low pressure fuel pump is intermittent and after sitting and at a cold start was working fine and you thought it was the PCV because that was the only change that you directly made. After getting the car to operating temperature and then shutting it off and then trying to start it… my bet is you would have a hard start like you’ve been having. But idk, I can’t diagnose everything over the internet lol.
when you say cycle the key to prime and pressurize the filter do you mean accessory mode or just try to turn over the engine but stop before it turns over? (trying to get rid of a fuel rail code)
Yes, accessory position (15 power, key on/engine off). Switch between key fully off position and then accessory position about three times waiting 5 seconds in between positions and then go ahead and start the engine. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@RedsGarageOfBlue Hey thanks for the help I'm subscribed. I just replaced the filter and my gti won't start back up again. I think I got air in the lines or turned the car off too soon when I first turned it on after replacing the filter. I've turned it to accessory like 20 times idk what I should do from here. :(
Can somebody help?? I replaced the fuel filter on mine and primed the car and the car wont even crank when i turn the key. I dont know what i did wrong, i know youre suppose to prime the car before starting and i did that but i cant even get a crank. I turn the key as if im starting the car regularly and get no crank at all.
Sounds like something related to the battery or ignition system. I’d check the state of the battery first. Did the car have this issue before you did the fuel filter?
@@RedsGarageOfBlue the car would crank forever before starting with the old filter so I thought it was a clogged fuel filter so I changed it and now the car won't even crank
@@frankyavocados5794 Hmm, maybe a key issue with the immobilizer or a fuel pump? Can you hear the fuel pump activate to prime the system when you turn the key to accessory position?
Nice video! Good tip re: marking the hoses to keep track of which one goes where.
Thank you!
Which anti sway bar is that in the rear? Also do you think there is any spray lube that will work to loosen up those clips (the part you did off camera)?
APR Tuning used to make sway bars but they stopped offering them.
Yeah, any kind of silicon spray works pretty well.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Thid is one badass shop with some badass cars!
👌
Great video! I currently have a 2010 Volkswagen CC. Recently I replaced the chain tensioner (due to a P0016) started the vehicle for the fire time and at cold start it seemed to be running normal but when the engine settled down, it started misfiring and just stalled completely. I hooked up VCDS and I got a P0300 and P1250.
I checked fuel rail pressure specified (70bat) and actual is (89bar). As far as my understanding, that eliminates a potential faulty HPFP. Could a fuel filter be the issue in my case? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
Sounds like you may have a few different issues.
P0016- something with the timing. Timing off, intake camshaft spool valve, intake camshaft/adjuster, low oil, etc.
P0300- Could be related to P0016 or P1250.
P1250- Could be low fuel or a faulty level sensor at the low pressure fuel pump in the tank.
Hope this helps.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsGarageOfBlue on the first start after the timing chain tensioner replacement (updated tensioner). I made sure to erase all the DTCs before first start up. It started right up and at cold start it sounded “ok” but I could tell it was misfiring a little. After the cold start the RPMS settled and the car started to really have a rough idle which resulted in a stall. I immediately scanned for codes and it had that P1250 and P0300.
At the time of the first crank I had 10 miles before empty on the tank. So I figured I would put some fresh 93 octane to start diagnosing. After fresh gas, vehicle still throws P1250 and stalls if I don’t press the gas to try to keep her alive haha. I checked the fuel rail pressure on VCDS and the specified is 70bar and actual is 89bar. Which my understanding, that eliminated a bad HPFP. Correct?
@@ivanvega2821 Sounds like your low pressure pump is dying. I would hook up a fuel gauge and check the low pressure being supplied to the engine. There is a quick disconnect on the passenger back corner of the engine bay where you can plug in. Should expect to see 5-7 bar. If you’re not getting that I would start with replacing the low pressure fuel pump and the control module that sits right on top of it. Pretty common for both of those to go bad, especially on the earlier years like you have.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue I just turned on the car this morning and I decided to unhook the intake manifold hose that goes to the PCV valve. At the manifold hole, I put my thumb and told my buddy to turn in the car. The vehicle started and idled 200% better. I than decided to remove the PCV system so I could suck and blow inside of it to see if the PCV valve was faulty. I was able to suck and was not able to blow in, which my understanding this means it’s a good PCV system.
Why was the car running fine when u plugged the intake manifold hole with my thumb 🧐
@@ivanvega2821 I’ve never seen a faulty PCV cause those faults. It’s a possible coincidence that your low pressure fuel pump is intermittent and after sitting and at a cold start was working fine and you thought it was the PCV because that was the only change that you directly made. After getting the car to operating temperature and then shutting it off and then trying to start it… my bet is you would have a hard start like you’ve been having.
But idk, I can’t diagnose everything over the internet lol.
Which filter do you recommend? Rockauto has a Mahn or something for like 23 bucks..that good?
That should do fine. You just want to make sure the internal check valve pressure rating is the same. It will say it on the outside of the filter.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue thanx brotha!!
@@jonm2416 No problem!
super helpful thanks brother!
No problem! Don't forget to subscribe!
when you say cycle the key to prime and pressurize the filter do you mean accessory mode or just try to turn over the engine but stop before it turns over? (trying to get rid of a fuel rail code)
Yes, accessory position (15 power, key on/engine off).
Switch between key fully off position and then accessory position about three times waiting 5 seconds in between positions and then go ahead and start the engine. Hope this helps.
Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@RedsGarageOfBlue Hey thanks for the help I'm subscribed. I just replaced the filter and my gti won't start back up again. I think I got air in the lines or turned the car off too soon when I first turned it on after replacing the filter. I've turned it to accessory like 20 times idk what I should do from here. :(
@@Harry-th9wl Have you checked the low side pressure coming from the fuel tank pump? Should be 4-7 BAR.
@@RedsGarageOfBlue I realized I switched the lines on the fuel filter by accident. I’m not the smartest ahahah
Can somebody help?? I replaced the fuel filter on mine and primed the car and the car wont even crank when i turn the key. I dont know what i did wrong, i know youre suppose to prime the car before starting and i did that but i cant even get a crank. I turn the key as if im starting the car regularly and get no crank at all.
Sounds like something related to the battery or ignition system. I’d check the state of the battery first. Did the car have this issue before you did the fuel filter?
@@RedsGarageOfBlue the car would crank forever before starting with the old filter so I thought it was a clogged fuel filter so I changed it and now the car won't even crank
@@frankyavocados5794 Hmm, maybe a key issue with the immobilizer or a fuel pump? Can you hear the fuel pump activate to prime the system when you turn the key to accessory position?
nice job, so did it get rid of the shuddering?, and how did the car run afterwards?
Runs much better. And starts much quicker due to the new relief valve inside the fuel filter.