Four years later this video is invaluable to me while I diagnose and repair the motor on my old Craftsman 113 table saw I bought in 1983 from a neighbor who had it for years before he sold it to me. Well done.
Thank you Mr. Pete! I have an old (NOT OBSOLETE!) 1969 Quincy compressor (per serial #) and I am sure the motor bearings have never been replaced. I can tell, it makes an awful squeaking when first starting up. I was dreading taking it to the local Las Vegas, Electric motor repair shop because as a 45 yo person I don't think people spend the true quality of time and do a good job. That's why I find my self, watching you, the Canadian AvE, The old Tony dude, the Spring that Clicks, and many more, including some from your meet and greet. Point is, I thank you for what you are doing your Tubal experience is very morally and mechanically valued, and I always look forward to more. And now on to that bearing motor job... time to plug in the Rigid that moves across the floor on its own! If I had 2 Rigids I could race them!
I don't think I have ever seen mixed bearings like that either. Interesting. And I'm pretty sure finding a part you need in your stash is the first sign of the apocalypse. Thanks.
Reminds me of my work in D.C. (Capital Hill) replacing seals and bearings on condensation and circulation pumps. We used to use our stove ovens and even electric bearing heaters to expand them in the installation process. Sometimes the bearings would overheat and leak all the grease out , requiring them to be thrown away. The younger mechanics had to be taught this process by us seasoned “old fellows.” The seals were made of ceramic, requiring to be install gently and in a immaculate condition or they would leak. I’m retired 3 years now but you’re bringing back some old memories. Thanks mr. Pete Oh, I almost forgot- The young bucks would always to forget to mark the housing and struggled putting the motors and pumps back together, then cry for help! Lol
I just want to let you know how much I look forward to your uploads on the weekends! The occasional weekday upload is a bonus! I will probably never do most of the things you do in your videos but I love living vicariously through you. I hope you enjoy making the videos as much as I enjoy watching them!
@@calholli actually I did strip down and repack the bearings. Running good as new, but I haven't actually used the lathe for more than a few test pieces, hehe. Need to get a 4 jaw style chuck for it...
Working in the bowling alley business for the last 40 years I have rebuilt hundreds and hundreds of these electric motors... And you're right I don't think I've ever seen an end Bell with a bushing versus a bearing good job mr. Pete great video
Thanks for posting this really helpful video. It's enabled me to strip down and replace the bearings in an irrigation pump - the first time I've ever looked inside an electric motor in my life! All the best from sunny Spain!
That was a great service on the Gould Century motor! I also was surprised when finding that this style motor has one sleeve bearing and one ball bearing. They are good motors, though. Many were used on air compressors. The rotor is made by placing the iron laminations into a die casting machine, and then injecting the aluminum into it so that it fills the voids and creates the rotor bars. In the Gould Century motor, they cast the rotor fan as one piece with the rotor bars. It does look different like that, and it helps provide flywheel mass for reciprocating air compressor applications!
You are so right about the stamps marking getting a smaller font each year! I have gone from glasses to magnifying glass to microscope! LOL Nice job! I am taking apart a Dayton 1.5 HP from a table saw because it was just so packed with sawdust that the brushes couldn't make contact and was blowing the breaker.
Very good. I got a couple old motors to practice on. I've cleaned and disassembled motors, but never swapped bearings before. Always worried about tearing things up. Thanks for the primer, Professor Pete!! Hmmmm..... Professor Pete's Primer..... Sounds like a new feature!!
A dab of grease were the centrifugal actuator for the switch slides is a good idea. 20 some years ago I picked up a 5 HP motor off an air compressor. It was replaced for not working. I took it home and tested it. it would not shift off the start up winding. I dissembled it freed up the centrifugal slide and it worked fine. Sat in the barn for many years. I installed it on a Quincy air compressor I restore a couple of years ago and has been running great!!!
Gould and emerson were notorious for the mixed bearing types .Almost all their motors were built to a price .They figure theres not much load on the contact end who needs a ball bearing there .Excellent video Sir Lyle !!
Amazing how you seem to have a NAPA stor and an ACE hardware saved up in you supply areas(: love it!. 2 of my boys started out being welders by trade and from the need for employment and adoped the saying"'paint is so overated" LOL! Motors haveing oilers can be a catch 22 as a lot of those type of motors got so much excess oil applied by the owner that the starting points fail to contact from the oil coating them.
Motors seem to run a little more quiet when sitting on a book rather than a work bench , ha ha . Have to start calling you “ sneaky Pete “ . 😉 ! Thanks for the video and looking forward to the project you have got in mind for that motor.
I once found an odd sleeve bearing similar to what you found on your motor on a smaller air exchanger motor that needed replacing. I could not find any way to fix it other than to change the entire motor at a crazy price. So I ended up removing the material holding the bearing and casting a new seat for a similar size ball bearing using liquid weld. Similar to jb weld. It was a bit of an experiment at the time but it's still turning today many years later and now the bearings can easily be replaced. Thanks again for your great videos.
THANK YOU...for sharing. One of the first things my dad taught me was to mark things and make notes as I go and the second thing he showed me was how to make gaskets and that was in the early '60s when dads took the time with their sons.
Sunday Morning Coffee and Tubalcain while waiting for Church time. Nothing could be better. My Lisle Drill Grinder has 6202 bearings with a 16mm bore. Glad I measured the bearings and shaft before ordering!! Until then I didn't know the 6202 came in anything but 15mm bore. I first thought they may be 5/8" bore but that would have given a 0.005" press fit. The 16mm gives a 0.001" press fit. Always measure the bearing race! (I ordered both, to be safe)
The mixed bearing thing is a design specification, motors can have a variety of bearing configurations just like the seals you mentioned as to what the designers intended the end use of the motor to originally be. Back in our days it was standard practice that if a ball baring was not absolutely necessary for longevity, save expense and use a plain bushing, if you remember ball bearings weren't as cheap then as now. That motor you replaced the bearings on was specifically design for "belt service" most likely to power a belt driven air compressor (because of the huge fan on one end)where it would see a high lateral loads on one end. Matter-of-fact, back in our days Century built damn good motors although not the very top of the line like Lincoln Electric, or Reliance Electric (just my opinion.) Yes, Lincoln they did build more that just welders, On AC induction motors the rotation mass is call a rotor, on DC motors it is called a armature (a rotating switch.) For once I've got to send some information your way. Thanks for all your great videos!
I'm pleased to see you tightened those draw bolt in a diagonal pattern. I've seen lots of videos where bolts are tightened in a circular pattern, and not just on motors, but also on cylinder heads, car wheels, etc. Makes me cringe, to see people tightening them in a circular pattern.
You encouraged me to try the same with an motor for my old Kärger lathe. I failed on the first bolt. Nothing moving, I think I might break my arm first. WD40 not helping either. Disassembling always look so easy on youtube, haha.
Two questions: 1) why is everyone emphasizing the importance of marking the bells position? I don't get it. They are perfectly ROUND after all. Why does it matter to mark them before taking them apart? (plus there are long bolts holding both ends, already 'marking' the position) 2) how would I go around cleaning the part with the windings, but to not affect the windings with the solvent? Thank you kindly in advance for answering. (I am preparing to clean my little range hood fan electric motor from huge grease mess. So only question no. 2 is of importance to me, question no. 1 is only for curiosity).
Really nicely paced instruction with attention to the important facets of the task at hand. All those years of teaching experience really paid off (for us viewers 😉). After more than a decade of distraction, I'm finally getting to my queue of 1940s/50s era woodworking machinery rebuilds. First up is a small table saw that needs new motor and arbor bearings. I've done a motor before but this will be a first for arbor bearings.
at 3:00 in this is a potential trouble spot for this motor design, on the double ball bearing version the bearing will damage the switch and you have to first take the rear bearing housing off to maneuver the switch around the bearing. usually this bends the switch which causes the arms to hang too low, so it wont start when re-assembled, or it makes noise.
Thank you million I just learned something new.. I always press bearing into the shaft.. my wife always telling me no you doing wrong.. Now I doing as you just did put the bearings first she never complained ahhhhhh
I would have taken the opportunity to "upgrade" the motor by replacing that sleeved bearing with a ball bearing. I guess Dayton was saving money by using a sleeved bearing? Nice work Lyle, thumbs up.
"If you're a man my age..." I laughed out loud, sir! I'm a bit younger than you, but I think I finally hit the age where I'd swear everyone is printing things smaller and smaller every year! Wonderful videos, Mr. Pete! Appreciate all your videos. Still on the lookout for my first lathe.
Yeah. About 50 for me. Annoying isn't it? And those spotty youths in media and label design have no inkling of what they are doing with their tiny fonts :-)
I`m currently down a lathe so i`m going to go out to the shop and add toggle switches to all of my surplus drill press scrap electric motors. I know you love those and so do I. Hopefully soon I can build that belt sander.
Hey Mr. Pete; Informative vid. My 10 yr old Jet tablesaw started squealing this morn, still runs good. I felt motor and not hot. It has had a lot of use. Gotta dive in cause our dog does not like the off and on noise:)))) Best; Tom
Nice video hard to watch change bearings all the week long for machine rebuilding. Bodine is my main motor rebuild. Still watching the video in case I learn something new because you never know it all and can always learn a bit more. Yes agree the identification on the bearing is shrinking 55, little surprised you do not have some new old stock bearings from a sale you attended in stock MrPete. Nice to see you replace the bearings tired of others taking these motors apart (big effort) then cleaning the old bearings and putting them back in, oh there is your new old stock I am ok now.
Good job. Love these quality old motors, they run and run and what do they ever need ? A pair of cheap bearings once in a blue moon. I had a bridgeport 2j motor, making awful noise when i got it, a sort of clicking ratchetting noise, it turned out some one had replaced the bearings and left one of the four draw bolts a half a turn loose, and that is what was making then noise.
I am a novice at working on electric motors. So, this video was very helpful. I bought an electric motor at a yard sale recently. Unfortunately, the name and other information are missing. Suffice it to say it is very much like yours in this video and I believe it's 1/2 hp. The shaft goes in and out about 1/8". It has sleeve bearings on each end and they look pretty good. Is this "play" normal or something I need to repair? Hope to benefit from your wisdom! Thanks in advance! I look forward to your next video!
You mentioned that you cleaned the motor parts in solvent. I'm interested in how. What did you use, what is the process, please? I want to make sure I do not mess up the motor windings or any other electrical component or insulation. I'm attempting to remove rust from inside the motor. Thanks.
If you have one local, the Fastenal stores have some bearings in stock, and can order for 'drop ship' at very low delivery cost. I got a pair for less than $6, with about 70 cents shipped to the local store. Good deal.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to get a 1 HP electric motor back working for an old Craftsman 113 table saw. When powered the motor would hum then trip the breaker. I took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together and got it to spinning. 14 amp motor on a 15 am circuit was still tripping the circuit. I plugged it into a 20 amp circuit and it ran for about 30 seconds before blowing the capacitor (pop, smoke, electrolytic fluid leaked out). I took it back apart to check the bearings. One bearing has me puzzled. I think it may be a sleeve bearing, but it appears to have some type of fibrous wafer inside that I am guessing is supposed to absorb the oil (from the oiling ports) and then keep the spinning shaft oiled. On the inside surface of the bearing which has ID of about 5/8", there is a gap in the inner surface (1/4" - 5/16") where that fibrous washer/ring is exposed. Is that normal? What type of bearing is that? I have ordered another capacitor, but don't want to install it just to destroy it also if there is some other issue that caused the first capacitor to fail.
Mr. Pete, thanks for what you do! Does that starting capacitor pose any risk to you when you are disassembling the motor? How do you know its in a zero energy state?
Not second guessing you, just have a keen eye to detail. Not to be confused for vast knowledge of electric motors. Lol You claimed it was 1 1/2 hp & the same was written on the motor. However, on your tag it is stamped 1/2 hp with a 1 in the PH field before the HP field. I'm presuming the 1 PH indicates single phase? And only 1/2 horsepower?
The witness marks are a good idea, I have to remember that for next time. I also fortunate to have a bearing supply in the city I live in so no waiting to have the bearings shipped.
Have had a lot of motors apart but never seen balls on one end and sleeve on the other?? That is a nicely made integral fan assembly. So many new motors have plastic fans. I've never liked single phase motors, too many parts to fail. Don't like open motors either. (Crotchety old man!) Even when my shop was at my home I started using 3 phase. It is easy to make a rotary phase converter.
If you didn’t press the front bearing onto anything. Wouldn’t the force between the two opposing end bells being tightened and therefore squeezing them together press the bearing into the exact place it needs to be?
Well built older motors are getting harder to find for cheap or for free. They used to be everywhere (much like little Briggs engines were everywhere) but I only came 3 this year.
At minute 8:00 to 8:18 in this episode where you mention you talked about the start capacitor switch in another video; even though I did see that video I now would like to see it again. However I cannot find it anywhere on your videos page - do you recall anything about that video that will help me to find it?
Great video! Cost me $10 to fix my custom motor (extra long shaft) for my $11k oven. New motors are $500+ and weeks out. Got my bearings replaced and only h ad to wait 2 days for bearings through Amazon (faster than NAPA could get them). +0
Mr pete, I have a question to pose to u or anyone here and would greatly appreciate ur opinion as I can't seem to find anything in the various forums surprisingly I'm building a steady rest for the logan 200 and have opted for brass/bronze fingers over the bearings or cam followers - my question is about plain copper? I've heard mere mention of copper, but can not find any comparison of copper vs brass ,bronze or bearings - just wondering if u have an opinion Love the video as I am an industrial electrician by trade I found it quite interesting - being union I work in big industrial plants such as Ford,GE, DuPont and all those big companies would not consider for a second replacing bearings in a motor if u can believe that - to them time is money so they would rush a brand new motor in a heartbeat - just thought might like to know Thanks
I think the reason they don't use copper, is it wears poorly. It kinda smears when it is machined. Makes great pads for chuck jaws and vise jaws for just that reason. It deforms easily.
Hello, I finally took the plunge and disassembled a Doerr LR22132 1.5HP. Got it apart. The beatings are 5/8” sealed labeled 230. If they are sealed, do they need to be replaced? I also need to change direction and volt from 220 to 110. Any ideas? I looked it up, found the reference,but can’t find the numbers for the internal terminals. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I’ll get a few pics and send them once I get it cleaned. Is ib better to blow or vacuum up the old crud in the motor? Thank yiu. Glad I found yoir page.
Mr. Pete and morning coffee, great! Do you compare prices on Ebay and Amazon? I was surprised to find that sometimes Amazon is cheaper and much faster delivery. I recently was going to buy a Chevy alternator on Ebay and decided to check Amazon and they were 1/2 the price as Ebay.
Ebay is a significantly less evil corporation than Amazon IMHO. They never sued other bookstores for daring to offer 'fill in the address form from last time' functionality. That was so disgusting that I've not forgiven them more than a decade later.
i miss that job,i work 40 years on a motor shops ,,,,small size and big size shops ,the small size can repair motors up to 300 H.P and the bigger size shop up to 10000 H.P, 3200 -4600 and 13800 volts motors ( only industrial stuff ) ,the small size shop repairs everything but limit to 300 H.P ,O.K most home motors (like) swimming pool MOTORS ,,,and no so,,,, they have 1 sleeve and 1 roll bearings ,they never have 2 roll bearings ,and the oil burner motors 99.99999999% the time no ball bearings at all, ,,only sleeve bearings but the industrial motors all ways have ball bearings and most the time special bearings ,my job was repair D.C motors most the time (in the shop and in the field ) ,,,I LOVE DC MOTORS ,,,,, but sometimes i have to jump doing A.C motors if the shop need help on A.C motors but i no longer work anymore because my age went up fast but i love to watching you videos doing all kind things ( like that belt sander ) ,i spend all morning you 7 whatching you videos on that
Bearing numbers explained electricalfundablog.com/identify-bearing-number-calculation-nomenclature/ In your case 6203 RS 6 = single row deep groove ball bearing 2 = light duty 03 = 17mm bore (fits 17 mm motor shaft) RS = one side sealed Many electric motors use 6201 thru 6203. You could probably ascertain the bearing needed just by measuring your motor shaft, e.g., 17mm means you'd order a 6203 bearing.
pump motors generally have a fan shield like that to toss any water that might come in outwards. Did you measure the shaft? I only ask cause I have a set of 6202 bearings on my desk. Both are marked just 6202 nothing else but one is 15mm the other is 1/2 inch inside diameter. Ive seen that a number of times even when shopping for bearings. I'm probably the only one that comes with her own caliper just to check inside diameter of bearings before i buy them. Side note. Just checked i have 6203's as well. these are what I call used non crit bearings. Ie I replaced them on a motor but they were not bad. For slow speed applications these would be just fine. Ie a roller assembly for either woodworking or steel. And they are both 5/8 not 17mm. uhm not to be picky but are you sure that is not a 3/4 hp motor? 1hp + usually have a 3/4 shaft. which would be a 6204 bearing oh well just my two cents worth (nickles if you prefer)
When the labeling dept gets lazy.. like what other bearings would be in a motor.. never seen a roller bearing motor and an oil light bearing is considered a bushing.. funny though...
I am in process of rebuilding a chainsaw sharpener, I ordered new bearings from MC, they were here in a couple days. I am still waiting for the “specialty” capacitor to arrive from overseas, a month later...
No oiler = Built in obsolescence. While ive never seen such a setup in a motor that large, it's not uncommon to find motor armatures with a ball bearing on one end and an oil bushing surrounded by felt to hold oil on the back end. Considering how inexpensive ball bearings can be the only possible explanation i can think of as to why this is done is to make sure you are a repeat customer. my 14 gallon ridgid shop vac is done like this, but since i learned about it before the oil ran dry, i frequently open it up and add oil to the felt.
Four years later this video is invaluable to me while I diagnose and repair the motor on my old Craftsman 113 table saw I bought in 1983 from a neighbor who had it for years before he sold it to me. Well done.
Thank you Mr. Pete! I have an old (NOT OBSOLETE!) 1969 Quincy compressor (per serial #) and I am sure the motor bearings have never been replaced. I can tell, it makes an awful squeaking when first starting up. I was dreading taking it to the local Las Vegas, Electric motor repair shop because as a 45 yo person I don't think people spend the true quality of time and do a good job. That's why I find my self, watching you, the Canadian AvE, The old Tony dude, the Spring that Clicks, and many more, including some from your meet and greet. Point is, I thank you for what you are doing your Tubal experience is very morally and mechanically valued, and I always look forward to more.
And now on to that bearing motor job... time to plug in the Rigid that moves across the floor on its own! If I had 2 Rigids I could race them!
I don't think I have ever seen mixed bearings like that either. Interesting.
And I'm pretty sure finding a part you need in your stash is the first sign of the apocalypse.
Thanks.
Reminds me of my work in D.C. (Capital Hill) replacing seals and bearings on condensation and circulation pumps. We used to use our stove ovens and even electric bearing heaters to expand them in the installation process. Sometimes the bearings would overheat and leak all the grease out , requiring them to be thrown away. The younger mechanics had to be taught this process by us seasoned “old fellows.” The seals were made of ceramic, requiring to be install gently and in a immaculate condition or they would leak. I’m retired 3 years now but you’re bringing back some old memories. Thanks mr. Pete
Oh, I almost forgot- The young bucks would always to forget to mark the housing and struggled putting the motors and pumps back together, then cry for help! Lol
That's a good story, I bet you have plenty of them
mrpete222 : sure do but don’t want to steal your thunder.
I just want to let you know how much I look forward to your uploads on the weekends! The occasional weekday upload is a bonus! I will probably never do most of the things you do in your videos but I love living vicariously through you. I hope you enjoy making the videos as much as I enjoy watching them!
Thank you for watching and yes also like to make them
Sweet !!! I once got in an argument with a supervisor on oiling a electric motor. Thanks for the justification that I’m not totally crazy.
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Just bought an old lathe and it sounds like I need to replace the bearings. This video has given me the confidence to dive in. Thanks!!
You never did it though did you. lol
@@calholli actually I did strip down and repack the bearings. Running good as new, but I haven't actually used the lathe for more than a few test pieces, hehe. Need to get a 4 jaw style chuck for it...
Working in the bowling alley business for the last 40 years I have rebuilt hundreds and hundreds of these electric motors... And you're right I don't think I've ever seen an end Bell with a bushing versus a bearing good job mr. Pete great video
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Our Mr Pete always has a good show. Thank Jesus for him.
😁😁😁
Thanks for posting this really helpful video. It's enabled me to strip down and replace the bearings in an irrigation pump - the first time I've ever looked inside an electric motor in my life!
All the best from sunny Spain!
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That was a great service on the Gould Century motor! I also was surprised when finding that this style motor has one sleeve bearing and one ball bearing. They are good motors, though. Many were used on air compressors. The rotor is made by placing the iron laminations into a die casting machine, and then injecting the aluminum into it so that it fills the voids and creates the rotor bars. In the Gould Century motor, they cast the rotor fan as one piece with the rotor bars. It does look different like that, and it helps provide flywheel mass for reciprocating air compressor applications!
Thanks
You are so right about the stamps marking getting a smaller font each year!
I have gone from glasses to magnifying glass to microscope! LOL
Nice job! I am taking apart a Dayton 1.5 HP from a table saw because it was just so packed with sawdust that the brushes couldn't make contact and was blowing the breaker.
Very good. I got a couple old motors to practice on. I've cleaned and disassembled motors, but never swapped bearings before. Always worried about tearing things up. Thanks for the primer, Professor Pete!! Hmmmm..... Professor Pete's Primer..... Sounds like a new feature!!
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Just getting into selling ball bearings. This has helped a lot just getting my eyes on what they do in a real sense. Thanks!
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A dab of grease were the centrifugal actuator for the switch slides is a good idea. 20 some years ago I picked up a 5 HP motor off an air compressor. It was replaced for not working. I took it home and tested it. it would not shift off the start up winding. I dissembled it freed up the centrifugal slide and it worked fine. Sat in the barn for many years. I installed it on a Quincy air compressor I restore a couple of years ago and has been running great!!!
Sometimes it's just a simple fix
Gould and emerson were notorious for the mixed bearing types .Almost all their motors were built to a price .They figure theres not much load on the contact end who needs a ball bearing there .Excellent video Sir Lyle !!
Yes
Amazing how you seem to have a NAPA stor and an ACE hardware saved up in you supply areas(: love it!.
2 of my boys started out being welders by trade and from the need for employment and adoped the saying"'paint is so overated" LOL!
Motors haveing oilers can be a catch 22 as a lot of those type of motors got so much excess oil applied by the owner that the starting points fail to contact from the oil coating them.
Yes, I have a lot of junk. And motors are often over oiled
Motors seem to run a little more quiet when sitting on a book rather than a work bench , ha ha . Have to start calling you “ sneaky Pete “ . 😉 ! Thanks for the video and looking forward to the project you have got in mind for that motor.
I once found an odd sleeve bearing similar to what you found on your motor on a smaller air exchanger motor that needed replacing. I could not find any way to fix it other than to change the entire motor at a crazy price. So I ended up removing the material holding the bearing and casting a new seat for a similar size ball bearing using liquid weld. Similar to jb weld. It was a bit of an experiment at the time but it's still turning today many years later and now the bearings can easily be replaced. Thanks again for your great videos.
Sounds like a good fix
THANK YOU...for sharing. One of the first things my dad taught me was to mark things and make notes as I go and the second thing he showed me was how to make gaskets and that was in the early '60s when dads took the time with their sons.
My dad showed me how to make Gaskets when I was 16
Sunday Morning Coffee and Tubalcain while waiting for Church time. Nothing could be better. My Lisle Drill Grinder has 6202 bearings with a 16mm bore. Glad I measured the bearings and shaft before ordering!! Until then I didn't know the 6202 came in anything but 15mm bore. I first thought they may be 5/8" bore but that would have given a 0.005" press fit. The 16mm gives a 0.001" press fit. Always measure the bearing race! (I ordered both, to be safe)
Thanks for watching, Yes always measure
Great session Mr Pete. Any suggestions on removing a bearing stuck in the end bell ? Can't wait until next semester class begins.
Replacing bearings on the exact same motor. Thanks!
The mixed bearing thing is a design specification, motors can have a variety of bearing configurations just like the seals you mentioned as to what the designers intended the end use of the motor to originally be. Back in our days it was standard practice that if a ball baring was not absolutely necessary for longevity, save expense and use a plain bushing, if you remember ball bearings weren't as cheap then as now. That motor you replaced the bearings on was specifically design for "belt service" most likely to power a belt driven air compressor (because of the huge fan on one end)where it would see a high lateral loads on one end. Matter-of-fact, back in our days Century built damn good motors although not the very top of the line like Lincoln Electric, or Reliance Electric (just my opinion.) Yes, Lincoln they did build more that just welders, On AC induction motors the rotation mass is call a rotor, on DC motors it is called a armature (a rotating switch.) For once I've got to send some information your way. Thanks for all your great videos!
Thanks
I'm pleased to see you tightened those draw bolt in a diagonal pattern.
I've seen lots of videos where bolts are tightened in a circular pattern, and not just on motors, but also on cylinder heads, car wheels, etc.
Makes me cringe, to see people tightening them in a circular pattern.
Thanks
You encouraged me to try the same with an motor for my old Kärger lathe. I failed on the first bolt. Nothing moving, I think I might break my arm first. WD40 not helping either. Disassembling always look so easy on youtube, haha.
If it works, don't fix it
Two questions:
1) why is everyone emphasizing the importance of marking the bells position? I don't get it. They are perfectly ROUND after all. Why does it matter to mark them before taking them apart? (plus there are long bolts holding both ends, already 'marking' the position)
2) how would I go around cleaning the part with the windings, but to not affect the windings with the solvent?
Thank you kindly in advance for answering. (I am preparing to clean my little range hood fan electric motor from huge grease mess. So only question no. 2 is of importance to me, question no. 1 is only for curiosity).
Really nicely paced instruction with attention to the important facets of the task at hand. All those years of teaching experience really paid off (for us viewers 😉).
After more than a decade of distraction, I'm finally getting to my queue of 1940s/50s era woodworking machinery rebuilds. First up is a small table saw that needs new motor and arbor bearings. I've done a motor before but this will be a first for arbor bearings.
Thank you for the compliment. Good luck with your rebuilds.
at 3:00 in this is a potential trouble spot for this motor design, on the double ball bearing version the bearing will damage the switch and you have to first take the rear bearing housing off to maneuver the switch around the bearing. usually this bends the switch which causes the arms to hang too low, so it wont start when re-assembled, or it makes noise.
Thank you million I just learned something new.. I always press bearing into the shaft.. my wife always telling me no you doing wrong.. Now I doing as you just did put the bearings first she never complained ahhhhhh
Definitely informative and direct thanks for making this video there's no replacement for experience
Glad you enjoyed it!
I would have taken the opportunity to "upgrade" the motor by replacing that sleeved bearing with a ball bearing. I guess Dayton was saving money by using a sleeved bearing? Nice work Lyle, thumbs up.
Thanks
You better be off to a auction soon, you are depleting you stock. Nice job on the motor, great to have supplies.
I haven't been to an auction in quite a while Randy
Always satisfying when minimal effort makes big difference
Yes
"If you're a man my age..." I laughed out loud, sir! I'm a bit younger than you, but I think I finally hit the age where I'd swear everyone is printing things smaller and smaller every year! Wonderful videos, Mr. Pete! Appreciate all your videos. Still on the lookout for my first lathe.
lol
Yeah. About 50 for me. Annoying isn't it? And those spotty youths in media and label design have no inkling of what they are doing with their tiny fonts :-)
I`m currently down a lathe so i`m going to go out to the shop and add toggle switches to all of my surplus drill press scrap electric motors. I know you love those and so do I. Hopefully soon I can build that belt sander.
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Hey Mr. Pete; Informative vid. My 10 yr old Jet tablesaw started squealing this morn, still runs good. I felt motor and not hot. It has had a lot of use. Gotta dive in cause our dog does not like the off and on noise:))))
Best; Tom
Nice video sir! I’m trying to take one apart and rewind it. First time we see what happens.
I have a motor which i have to do exactly what you have just done. For my pressure washer ive had for 20 years .cheers Lyle and thanks
Nice video hard to watch change bearings all the week long for machine rebuilding. Bodine is my main motor rebuild. Still watching the video in case I learn something new because you never know it all and can always learn a bit more. Yes agree the identification on the bearing is shrinking 55, little surprised you do not have some new old stock bearings from a sale you attended in stock MrPete. Nice to see you replace the bearings tired of others taking these motors apart (big effort) then cleaning the old bearings and putting them back in, oh there is your new old stock I am ok now.
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Good job. Love these quality old motors, they run and run and what do they ever need ? A pair of cheap bearings once in a blue moon. I had a bridgeport 2j motor, making awful noise when i got it, a sort of clicking ratchetting noise, it turned out some one had replaced the bearings and left one of the four draw bolts a half a turn loose, and that is what was making then noise.
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Outstanding video. Thanks for taking the time to teach us something valuable.
What solvent did you used to clean the in bell debris?
Thank you... Thank you... Thank you... Thank you... can't get enough education on bearings!
I'm glad it helped, keep watching
Do you know, which size bearing puller did you use? Thanks.
I am a novice at working on electric motors. So, this video was very helpful. I bought an electric motor at a yard sale recently. Unfortunately, the name and other information are missing. Suffice it to say it is very much like yours in this video and I believe it's 1/2 hp. The shaft goes in and out about 1/8". It has sleeve bearings on each end and they look pretty good. Is this "play" normal or something I need to repair? Hope to benefit from your wisdom! Thanks in advance! I look forward to your next video!
so what kind of grease did you use ? another great video. thanks
I didn't notice if you cleaned up the armature or touch it up with sand paper. Is it bad to do that? Just want to know before I get into-er
You mentioned that you cleaned the motor parts in solvent. I'm interested in how. What did you use, what is the process, please? I want to make sure I do not mess up the motor windings or any other electrical component or insulation. I'm attempting to remove rust from inside the motor. Thanks.
Thank you Mr. Pete, great instructional as always!
Thanks
If you have one local, the Fastenal stores have some bearings in stock, and can order for 'drop ship' at very low delivery cost. I got a pair for less than $6, with about 70 cents shipped to the local store. Good deal.
Thanks
Sağol dayı , iyi işler.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to get a 1 HP electric motor back working for an old Craftsman 113 table saw. When powered the motor would hum then trip the breaker. I took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together and got it to spinning. 14 amp motor on a 15 am circuit was still tripping the circuit. I plugged it into a 20 amp circuit and it ran for about 30 seconds before blowing the capacitor (pop, smoke, electrolytic fluid leaked out). I took it back apart to check the bearings. One bearing has me puzzled. I think it may be a sleeve bearing, but it appears to have some type of fibrous wafer inside that I am guessing is supposed to absorb the oil (from the oiling ports) and then keep the spinning shaft oiled. On the inside surface of the bearing which has ID of about 5/8", there is a gap in the inner surface (1/4" - 5/16") where that fibrous washer/ring is exposed. Is that normal? What type of bearing is that? I have ordered another capacitor, but don't want to install it just to destroy it also if there is some other issue that caused the first capacitor to fail.
How much to replace bearing in two 1.5 HP motors at your shop , your location please ?
Hello, I'm looking for a tap plate at 13:48 that you used. Where do you get that at?
Thanks Lyle. I have just such a project on the bench, very timely!
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Mr. Pete, thanks for what you do! Does that starting capacitor pose any risk to you when you are disassembling the motor? How do you know its in a zero energy state?
You're darn right it does. Discharge it across the two wires
Not second guessing you, just have a keen eye to detail. Not to be confused for vast knowledge of electric motors. Lol
You claimed it was 1 1/2 hp & the same was written on the motor. However, on your tag it is stamped 1/2 hp with a 1 in the PH field before the HP field. I'm presuming the 1 PH indicates single phase? And only 1/2 horsepower?
I noticed the great instructor always replacing shaft side bearings I don't know why may be it is easy, anyway your work was neat & clean & great
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What is the type of bearing?
Nice move with the back side of the emery cloth!
The witness marks are a good idea, I have to remember that for next time. I also fortunate to have a bearing supply in the city I live in so no waiting to have the bearings shipped.
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Any particular solvents you use to clean it? Did you make that piece you used to tap the bearing back on?
Have had a lot of motors apart but never seen balls on one end and sleeve on the other?? That is a nicely made integral fan assembly. So many new motors have plastic fans. I've never liked single phase motors, too many parts to fail. Don't like open motors either. (Crotchety old man!) Even when my shop was at my home I started using 3 phase. It is easy to make a rotary phase converter.
Yes, three phase motors sure are simple
If you didn’t press the front bearing onto anything. Wouldn’t the force between the two opposing end bells being tightened and therefore squeezing them together press the bearing into the exact place it needs to be?
Not necessarily
Well built older motors are getting harder to find for cheap or for free. They used to be everywhere (much like little Briggs engines were everywhere) but I only came 3 this year.
You are right, I seldom see them. Sometimes you have to buy the entire machine to get the motor
Speaking of buying machines... I saw that SB 9" belt guard yesterday and smiled. :) @@mrpete222
the real Mr Pete "you could paint".
lol
At minute 8:00 to 8:18 in this episode where you mention you talked about the start capacitor switch in another video; even though I did see that video I now would like to see it again. However I cannot find it anywhere on your videos page - do you recall anything about that video that will help me to find it?
Sorry, I do not remember which one
Great video. Thanks for the lesson.
what kind of geese do you use to stuff ball bearings?
Canada geese
@@mrpete222 hahaa i needed that. grease lol😂
Nice job¡
I have a 1/2 hp motor that broke the centrifugal switch.
Do you think I can replace it with a capacitor?
No
Great video. Thank you very much for good tips.
Know what you mean. My arms get longer every year trying to read small font. One of the best investments I made for my shop was a lighted magnifier.
Yes
Great video! Cost me $10 to fix my custom motor (extra long shaft) for my $11k oven. New motors are $500+ and weeks out. Got my bearings replaced and only h ad to wait 2 days for bearings through Amazon (faster than NAPA could get them). +0
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That is indeed a squirrel cage rotor Mr Pete
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Thank you for creating this video
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Mr pete, I have a question to pose to u or anyone here and would greatly appreciate ur opinion as I can't seem to find anything in the various forums surprisingly
I'm building a steady rest for the logan 200 and have opted for brass/bronze fingers over the bearings or cam followers - my question is about plain copper?
I've heard mere mention of copper, but can not find any comparison of copper vs brass ,bronze or bearings - just wondering if u have an opinion
Love the video as I am an industrial electrician by trade I found it quite interesting - being union I work in big industrial plants such as Ford,GE, DuPont and all those big companies would not consider for a second replacing bearings in a motor if u can believe that - to them time is money so they would rush a brand new motor in a heartbeat - just thought might like to know
Thanks
I think the reason they don't use copper, is it wears poorly. It kinda smears when it is machined. Makes great pads for chuck jaws and vise jaws for just that reason. It deforms easily.
Hello,
I finally took the plunge and disassembled a Doerr LR22132 1.5HP. Got it apart. The beatings are 5/8” sealed labeled 230. If they are sealed, do they need to be replaced? I also need to change direction and volt from 220 to 110. Any ideas? I looked it up, found the reference,but can’t find the numbers for the internal terminals. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Sealed bearings can wear out just like any other bearing
Does the motor nameplate say that it is dual voltage?
The motor is from a 1970’s sears compressor. It gives wiring diagrams for both voltages. The terminals have no markings I can see. @@mrpete222
I’ll get a few pics and send them once I get it cleaned. Is ib better to blow or vacuum up the old crud in the motor? Thank yiu. Glad I found yoir page.
Was it quieter afterwards?
Yes
Mr. Pete and morning coffee, great! Do you compare prices on Ebay and Amazon? I was surprised to find that sometimes Amazon is cheaper and much faster delivery. I recently was going to buy a Chevy alternator on Ebay and decided to check Amazon and they were 1/2 the price as Ebay.
Wow
Ebay is a significantly less evil corporation than Amazon IMHO. They never sued other bookstores for daring to offer 'fill in the address form from last time' functionality. That was so disgusting that I've not forgiven them more than a decade later.
i miss that job,i work 40 years on a motor shops ,,,,small size and big size shops ,the small size can repair motors up to 300 H.P and the bigger size shop up to 10000 H.P, 3200 -4600 and 13800 volts motors ( only industrial stuff ) ,the small size shop repairs everything but limit to 300 H.P ,O.K most home motors (like) swimming pool MOTORS ,,,and no so,,,, they have 1 sleeve and 1 roll bearings ,they never have 2 roll bearings ,and the oil burner motors 99.99999999% the time no ball bearings at all, ,,only sleeve bearings but the industrial motors all ways have ball bearings and most the time special bearings ,my job was repair D.C motors most the time (in the shop and in the field ) ,,,I LOVE DC MOTORS ,,,,, but sometimes i have to jump doing A.C motors if the shop need help on A.C motors but i no longer work anymore because my age went up fast but i love to watching you videos doing all kind things ( like that belt sander ) ,i spend all morning you 7 whatching you videos on that
Sounds like you had an interesting career working on motors. Thank you for watching my videos
Bearing numbers explained electricalfundablog.com/identify-bearing-number-calculation-nomenclature/
In your case 6203 RS
6 = single row deep groove ball bearing
2 = light duty
03 = 17mm bore (fits 17 mm motor shaft)
RS = one side sealed
Many electric motors use 6201 thru 6203. You could probably ascertain the bearing needed just by measuring your motor shaft, e.g., 17mm means you'd order a 6203 bearing.
Thanks
enjoyed...great discussion/instruction
Thanks
Nice! I've never done that, but I have a couple motors that need it!
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Where can I find bearings for a 7.5hp 3 phase 143t Ingersoll rand motor
Probably at any major, bearing house or industrial supplier. There is such as motion industries.
pump motors generally have a fan shield like that to toss any water that might come in outwards. Did you measure the shaft? I only ask cause I have a set of 6202 bearings on my desk. Both are marked just 6202 nothing else but one is 15mm the other is 1/2 inch inside diameter. Ive seen that a number of times even when shopping for bearings. I'm probably the only one that comes with her own caliper just to check inside diameter of bearings before i buy them.
Side note. Just checked i have 6203's as well. these are what I call used non crit bearings. Ie I replaced them on a motor but they were not bad. For slow speed applications these would be just fine. Ie a roller assembly for either woodworking or steel. And they are both 5/8 not 17mm.
uhm not to be picky but are you sure that is not a 3/4 hp motor? 1hp + usually have a 3/4 shaft. which would be a 6204 bearing
oh well just my two cents worth (nickles if you prefer)
That's funny is that the same bearing number would fit different size shaft. I know that bearing quality varies. But sometimes it's a good enough
Interesting how the name plate listed 2- 6203 bearings, but it clearly only had one.
The plate on my motor also has a BRGS entry, it says “BALL”
When the labeling dept gets lazy.. like what other bearings would be in a motor.. never seen a roller bearing motor and an oil light bearing is considered a bushing.. funny though...
Where I can buy bush bearings. 1/2 dia shaft.
Ace Hardware
But why marked 6203 for both sides on plate?
Thanks Lyle. Great video
Thanks
"I got a memory even shorter than yours" 9:49
THANKS
Very informative thank you
Great video. New follower!
Thanks
The other bearing is the one I needed to know how to remove.🙃
I am in process of rebuilding a chainsaw sharpener, I ordered new bearings from MC, they were here in a couple days. I am still waiting for the “specialty” capacitor to arrive from overseas, a month later...
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I enjoyed that.
Was that Tommy on the phone?
lol
Asking for his spark plugs?
Thank you Mr Pete
No oiler = Built in obsolescence. While ive never seen such a setup in a motor that large, it's not uncommon to find motor armatures with a ball bearing on one end and an oil bushing surrounded by felt to hold oil on the back end. Considering how inexpensive ball bearings can be the only possible explanation i can think of as to why this is done is to make sure you are a repeat customer. my 14 gallon ridgid shop vac is done like this, but since i learned about it before the oil ran dry, i frequently open it up and add oil to the felt.