Man...that was a HUGE difference, and what an inexpensive repair too. Thanks, Bob. Next time I run across a bad motor, I'll have to give this repair a shot...$5 - $10 bearings and 30 - 60 minutes of my time beats $100 +/- for a new motor, that's for sure.
I received it a few days after I put the order in, maybe a week ago. It's been raining cats and dogs, so I haven't been able to crawl under the truck to clean up the current oil staining before I add the re-sealer. Thanks for remembering, Bob. I'll get back with you as soon as I get it done and I'll definitely let you know how it all turns out. Thanks, man!!
When I repair a motor I lube the threads of the through bots with anti seize compound to make future disassembly easier. Before I place a new motor in service, I pull each through bolt one at a time (to maintain alignment) and lube the threads liberally with anti seize. In fact, I lube every bolt I can on new and rebuilt motors with anti seize. The capacitor bolts, the grounding lug bolt, ALL of them! The most important one is the bearing retainer bolt. On a new motor that you are not disassembling, you can back it out a fair bit, then reach in to the case through the vents and glom the hell out of the exposed threads and the plate itself with anti sieze. During rebuild of course it is easier to lube it up when the case is apart. That bearing retainer bolt is usually corroded and stuck and you destroy it trying to loosen it on an old motor. Better to be proactive and pre treat these with anti seize, than to fight your way through it at rebuild time.
Thanks for your awesome videos! I bought a riding lawnmower for my dad a couple of years ago and found your videos. I was able to get it running again because of a carburetor repair video of yours and have been subscribed since then. Look forward to more tips and tricks from your knowledge.
Thanks for the feedback, it is really nice to hear from people that make repairs. Thank you for being a subscriber and taking the time to comment it really helps out the videos. Bob
Thank you for the video. I normally try to heat fit tighter bearings like you had. 15 minutes at 200* in the toaster oven gives you a good minute or so of working time. It’s even better if you can put the shaft in the freezer for an hour or so. Lots of times the parts will just slide together with almost no pressure. I generally don’t exceed 200 with sealed bearings as the rubber will degrade.
Great video. I was looking for your video that preceded this one that shows the tear down of the pump to get to the bearings but couldn’t find it. Did you pull it down?
Any recommendations on how to proceed if those really long through bolts shear off when trying to be removed? I suspect they never had anti-seize on them before...
I had same problem, salt got in there and seized them. I solved it by replacing the end bell. A torch on the end threads might have worked though. And BTW, that's a 6mm socket size. I was trying a 1/4" socket which SEEMS to fit ok, but it'll round off the head with too much torque. 6mm is perfect.
I have rebuilt my pump (also 2hp) several times and last time used the Nachi bearings you used. I've found them to perform much better than the Chinese bearings that are $1 each. Hope you used some grease or never-sieze on the body through bolts. They tend to freeze in place and I only have 3 functioning bolts due to broken off stub end (too small to drill out). good video!
The bearings I used are really quiet. I did not use anti seize on the long bolts, but I did brush them off on the wire wheel. I did have one bolt that was broken on the back cover and I drilled it out and re-tapped it.
My replacement bearing "6203RS" was too small for the UST-1152 oddball shaft shoulder. After days of head scratching, I found the Timken "6203-2RS" is the correct part, it fits fine.
A 6203 should be spec'd as follow: 17mm ID, 40mm OD, 12mm Width with a tolerance of -0.0003-0.0005, I think your bearing is out of spec and should have been rejected during the QC process, which brand was it?
I think he is referring to his Jul 28 2017 video: How To Rebuild And Install A Pool Pump Motor Although there are many steps in the dis assembly of the motor omitted between that and this video.
@@justindees29 I have a UST1152 motor, the old bearing reads '6203DG', the supposed replacement 6203RS is wrong size... too small ID on the 'fatter' part of the shaft. in a quandary now, because I can't source a 6203'DG' bearing for it.
Use care when removing the back bearing end cap if your pump motor has a centrifugal start switch (the Hayward pump motor he is working on does not) , the fork that actuates the switch rides on a moving collar on the rotor under the back motor end cap , as you tap on the back end cap to remove it go just far enough to get the bearing loose from the cap then gently pull and tilt the end cap so the bearing on the shaft above the switch does not catch on the centrifugal switch as you remove it.
Thanks for the video. I followed to the t and everything went well except the motor is still loud. The bearing were bad that I changed. Are the new bearings normally loader than others? Thanks
The end of the shaft on my pentair superflo is rusted and cracked. The end where the impeller goes. (the self tapping screw came out) do you know where to purchase, just the shaft?
Any idea what bearings a Century ECM16CU takes? I just installed last year, but I think one of the seals were leaking and got into the front bearing. Sounds pretty loud. Figured I'd try and install new bearings 1st. I can't find much info on it.
My Hayward 1hp pump keeps kicking itself off when I try to backflush or use my pool vacuum. Could this be the issue? I’ve already replaced all of the o-rings inside
are these the 1/2 in inside bore of these bearings i need those to rebuild two Emerson/ US motors 6127 i got if these will replace the worn out sleeve bearings on them as the shaft diameter is 1/2 in i got them from a local store that closed.
Yes, I used a 3 jaw puller and it worked great. The bearings were not too much of fight to pop off. The first video I made on the motor teardown shows how I did it. The link to the first video is at the end of this video. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Don't like the idea of grease on the bearing ! Should fit tight so there is no chance of spinning in the seat. When the bearing gets old it could spin in the seat and ruin the end bell.
amzn.to/2uasYFg 6203 Bearing for motors amzn.to/2H1eDhD Hayward Pool Pump Gasket Kit amzn.to/2uasYFg 6203 Bearing for motors amzn.to/2uaoWg0 Bearing puller set amzn.to/2wrMCcB A.O. Smith 1.5HP Motor Replacement amzn.to/2uEJnQQ A.O. Smith 1HP Motor Replacement Variable Speed Pumps amzn.to/2veaPGJ Variable speed Pentair Pool Pump amzn.to/2uIWFdB Variable Speed Hayward Pool Pump Salt Water Cells amzn.to/2uEIxnq Hayward Salt Water Cell 40K Gallon amzn.to/2v3JZAy Circupool Salt Water Generator 40K Gallon amzn.to/2uaoWg0 Bearing puller set amzn.to/2wrMCcB A.O. Smith 1.5HP Motor Replacement amzn.to/2uEJnQQ A.O. Smith 1HP Motor Replacement Variable Speed Pumps amzn.to/2veaPGJ Variable speed Pentair Pool Pump amzn.to/2uIWFdB Variable Speed Hayward Pool Pump Salt Water Cells amzn.to/2uEIxnq Hayward Salt Water Cell 40K Gallon amzn.to/2v3JZAy Circupool Salt Water Generator 40K Gallon
The through bolts can be a biatch to remove if corroded. Try a good loosener like kroil on the threaded openings on the bell end and let them sit overnight. AND btw, those hex heads are usually 6mm, not 1/4".
I have replaced a lot of bearings ( I was in the NAVY on submarines before becoming disabled causing me to lost use of my legs. But the taught me the property way to remove bearing from a 5hp motor to a 800kva motor. You heat up the bearing then slide it on . It puts a lot less stress on it.I use my wifes oven.
this is a good technique, not to hot to melt, just looking to expand the id of the metal (really in this application of the video, the bearing tolerances are made to be a press fit, so the above technique is okay also). inversely, if you are trying to press a bushing or bearing in, stick it in the freezer for a few hours to shrink the outside diameter.
If your pool motor is 10-15 years old, you better of buying a new one, less noisy, 2 speed for the same price since you have to buy puller, bearing. It happen to me motor is still very noisy after replacing bearing, decided to buy a new one.
OMG, never put it in a vise like that and more so never press a bearing on like that. you will cause the armature to go out of round and you can damge the center shaft. I only came here because of a link the other pool guys sent me. shudder.
Man...that was a HUGE difference, and what an inexpensive repair too. Thanks, Bob. Next time I run across a bad motor, I'll have to give this repair a shot...$5 - $10 bearings and 30 - 60 minutes of my time beats $100 +/- for a new motor, that's for sure.
The industrial motors are worth fixing. It seems the bearings go before the windings. Any report back on the AT-205 you put in your vehicle?
I received it a few days after I put the order in, maybe a week ago. It's been raining cats and dogs, so I haven't been able to crawl under the truck to clean up the current oil staining before I add the re-sealer. Thanks for remembering, Bob. I'll get back with you as soon as I get it done and I'll definitely let you know how it all turns out. Thanks, man!!
My impression is those don't need replacing very often unless it's obviously broken..
When I repair a motor I lube the threads of the through bots with anti seize compound to make future disassembly easier. Before I place a new motor in service, I pull each through bolt one at a time (to maintain alignment) and lube the threads liberally with anti seize. In fact, I lube every bolt I can on new and rebuilt motors with anti seize. The capacitor bolts, the grounding lug bolt, ALL of them! The most important one is the bearing retainer bolt. On a new motor that you are not disassembling, you can back it out a fair bit, then reach in to the case through the vents and glom the hell out of the exposed threads and the plate itself with anti sieze. During rebuild of course it is easier to lube it up when the case is apart. That bearing retainer bolt is usually corroded and stuck and you destroy it trying to loosen it on an old motor. Better to be proactive and pre treat these with anti seize, than to fight your way through it at rebuild time.
Thanks for your awesome videos! I bought a riding lawnmower for my dad a couple of years ago and found your videos. I was able to get it running again because of a carburetor repair video of yours and have been subscribed since then. Look forward to more tips and tricks from your knowledge.
Thanks for the feedback, it is really nice to hear from people that make repairs. Thank you for being a subscriber and taking the time to comment it really helps out the videos. Bob
Thank you for the video. I normally try to heat fit tighter bearings like you had. 15 minutes at 200* in the toaster oven gives you a good minute or so of working time. It’s even better if you can put the shaft in the freezer for an hour or so. Lots of times the parts will just slide together with almost no pressure. I generally don’t exceed 200 with sealed bearings as the rubber will degrade.
Great video. I was looking for your video that preceded this one that shows the tear down of the pump to get to the bearings but couldn’t find it. Did you pull it down?
Any recommendations on how to proceed if those really long through bolts shear off when trying to be removed? I suspect they never had anti-seize on them before...
I had same problem, salt got in there and seized them.
I solved it by replacing the end bell. A torch on the end threads might have worked though. And BTW, that's a 6mm socket size. I was trying a 1/4" socket which SEEMS to fit ok, but it'll round off the head with too much torque. 6mm is perfect.
How did u get the guts out of the casing? Im having trouble getting to your begining point
INYO pools has more videos on these motors/bearings/repairs
I have rebuilt my pump (also 2hp) several times and last time used the Nachi bearings you used. I've found them to perform much better than the Chinese bearings that are $1 each. Hope you used some grease or never-sieze on the body through bolts. They tend to freeze in place and I only have 3 functioning bolts due to broken off stub end (too small to drill out). good video!
The bearings I used are really quiet. I did not use anti seize on the long bolts, but I did brush them off on the wire wheel. I did have one bolt that was broken on the back cover and I drilled it out and re-tapped it.
How did u open the motor? Cant find first video...
D WIDE---SUPERB-----
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR BEARINGS? IS IT WORTH TRYING TO GET A TIMKEN OR NTN, OR NSK, TO ADD LIFE TO THE MOTOR??
THX
Most bearings you find are cheap Chinese, even some NSK and Timken and what not.But you can find good Nachi Japanese bearings on eBay.
My replacement bearing "6203RS" was too small for the UST-1152 oddball shaft shoulder. After days of head scratching, I found the Timken "6203-2RS" is the correct part, it fits fine.
6203 is 6203, both should do just fine..
@@JonTheChron Nope, I measured them. One fits, the other doesn't. Different IDs.
A 6203 should be spec'd as follow: 17mm ID, 40mm OD, 12mm Width with a tolerance of -0.0003-0.0005, I think your bearing is out of spec and should have been rejected during the QC process, which brand was it?
@@JonTheChronI'll look up the order and try to get back later.
But the standard 6203RS did fit perfectly/easily on the dry end of that rotor. Strange....
Thank you for this video. I've rebuilt two old motors i had sitting around for my pool and hot tub. Saved me hundreds. 👍
Is there a first part to this video?
I think he is referring to his Jul 28 2017 video: How To Rebuild And Install A Pool Pump Motor
Although there are many steps in the dis assembly of the motor omitted between that and this video.
How'd you know what size bearings to buy? Short of measuring the old ones with a micrometer, I'm at a loss.
There is a number on the old bearing. Just google that and you'll find the replacement
@@justindees29 I have a UST1152 motor, the old bearing reads '6203DG', the supposed replacement 6203RS is wrong size... too small ID on the 'fatter' part of the shaft. in a quandary now, because I can't source a 6203'DG' bearing for it.
Use care when removing the back bearing end cap if your pump motor has a centrifugal start switch (the Hayward pump motor he is working on does not) , the fork that actuates the switch rides on a moving collar on the rotor under the back motor end cap , as you tap on the back end cap to remove it go just far enough to get the bearing loose from the cap then gently pull and tilt the end cap so the bearing on the shaft above the switch does not catch on the centrifugal switch as you remove it.
Thanks for the video. I followed to the t and everything went well except the motor is still loud. The bearing were bad that I changed. Are the new bearings normally loader than others?
Thanks
The end of the shaft on my pentair superflo is rusted and cracked. The end where the impeller goes. (the self tapping screw came out) do you know where to purchase, just the shaft?
Where is part one of this video?
Any idea what bearings a Century ECM16CU takes? I just installed last year, but I think one of the seals were leaking and got into the front bearing. Sounds pretty loud. Figured I'd try and install new bearings 1st. I can't find much info on it.
My Hayward 1hp pump keeps kicking itself off when I try to backflush or use my pool vacuum. Could this be the issue? I’ve already replaced all of the o-rings inside
are these the 1/2 in inside bore of these bearings i need those to rebuild two Emerson/ US motors 6127 i got if these will replace the worn out sleeve bearings on them as the shaft diameter is 1/2 in i got them from a local store that closed.
Sure wish I could find part 1(one)???
What bearings do I need for a CAT AST 125
can't find d your first video of teardown
Where do you get the bearings? You don't have the info on your page.
INYO POOLS has lotsa parts.
Great work Bob . Did you have use a puller to get the bearings off the shafts.
Cheers
Pete.
Yes, I used a 3 jaw puller and it worked great. The bearings were not too much of fight to pop off. The first video I made on the motor teardown shows how I did it. The link to the first video is at the end of this video. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
my pool pump just started making the whining sound, might just try this myself!
Excellent video, thanks!
Great video, thanks!!
You said you would leave the info on where I can get the bearings but I cannot find it.
Another thought how do you know the size of the Bering?
check the Strait
also looking for the first part of this.....
Wheres part one
Don't like the idea of grease on the bearing ! Should fit tight so there is no chance
of spinning in the seat. When the bearing gets old it could spin in the seat and ruin the end bell.
amzn.to/2uasYFg 6203 Bearing for motors
amzn.to/2H1eDhD Hayward Pool Pump Gasket Kit
amzn.to/2uasYFg 6203 Bearing for motors
amzn.to/2uaoWg0 Bearing puller set
amzn.to/2wrMCcB A.O. Smith 1.5HP Motor Replacement
amzn.to/2uEJnQQ A.O. Smith 1HP Motor Replacement
Variable Speed Pumps
amzn.to/2veaPGJ Variable speed Pentair Pool Pump
amzn.to/2uIWFdB Variable Speed Hayward Pool Pump
Salt Water Cells
amzn.to/2uEIxnq Hayward Salt Water Cell 40K Gallon
amzn.to/2v3JZAy Circupool Salt Water Generator 40K Gallon
amzn.to/2uaoWg0 Bearing puller set
amzn.to/2wrMCcB A.O. Smith 1.5HP Motor Replacement
amzn.to/2uEJnQQ A.O. Smith 1HP Motor Replacement
Variable Speed Pumps
amzn.to/2veaPGJ Variable speed Pentair Pool Pump
amzn.to/2uIWFdB Variable Speed Hayward Pool Pump
Salt Water Cells
amzn.to/2uEIxnq Hayward Salt Water Cell 40K Gallon
amzn.to/2v3JZAy Circupool Salt Water Generator 40K Gallon
Would have been nice to see how he got to where the motor is apart.
The through bolts can be a biatch to remove if corroded. Try a good loosener like kroil on the threaded openings on the bell end and let them sit overnight. AND btw, those hex heads are usually 6mm, not 1/4".
Where is the first video could’nt find it
Nice job!
Thanks John!
great job nicely explained
Thanks, Just so anyone reading can see video 1 shows how to tear down the motor and bearings. There is a link to that video at the end of this video.
my goodness...you started whacking the bearing with the sledge hammer. How not to install a bearing.
Well, he did pretty much just strike the inner race. But yeah I would probably have used a pipe or socket on the inner race from the outset.
Great job
Leave a little space between the water slinger and the end bell.
I have replaced a lot of bearings ( I was in the NAVY on submarines before becoming disabled causing me to lost use of my legs. But the taught me the property way to remove bearing from a 5hp motor to a 800kva motor. You heat up the bearing then slide it on . It puts a lot less stress on it.I use my wifes oven.
What temp would you set it to?
this is a good technique, not to hot to melt, just looking to expand the id of the metal (really in this application of the video, the bearing tolerances are made to be a press fit, so the above technique is okay also). inversely, if you are trying to press a bushing or bearing in, stick it in the freezer for a few hours to shrink the outside diameter.
@@trevorjames6204 Less than 200 F?
Alternatively or in combination, can put the shaft in the freezer.
Not sure when the dimensions for my us Motors c a t a s t 1 2 5 the bearings thank you
Did you mean 'U.S. Motors Catalyst 125?'
U didn't show replacing the governor switch why
Great job ! thanks, you saved me some money, much appreciated. Keep up the good work.
If your pool motor is 10-15 years old, you better of buying a new one, less noisy, 2 speed for the same price since you have to buy puller, bearing. It happen to me motor is still very noisy after replacing bearing, decided to buy a new one.
My salt-water pool is eating the pump bearings alive. 😕
Great Video !! But I can't find the first video ????
OMG, never put it in a vise like that and more so never press a bearing on like that. you will cause the armature to go out of round and you can damge the center shaft. I only came here because of a link the other pool guys sent me. shudder.
How would you press on the new bearings? Absent a vise, how would you hold the rotor to rand r the bearings?
Never hammer a bearing
Weird how nobody fixes their pool pumps anymore… if it breaks it gets replaced
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