I had this same problem on my old Grizzly G1023 table saw. It would not start and only made a very slight buzzing noise when I pressed the start button. However, it was not a bad capacitor or a switch problem. After testing the capacitor I decided to open the small cover plate on the motor that covers the junction of the power supply cord to the motor’s wiring. I found that one of the orange wire nut covers appeared to be burnt a bit. When I started to twist it off, it was loose and the two wires had very little left connecting one to the other. I stripped a bit more cover off the wires and used a new wire nut cover to connect them and a bit of electrical tape and thankfully that fixed the problem. The saw started right up!
This is such an awesome video. I very much appreciate that you are willing to help your customers fix their equipment instead of trying to get more money out of them to for equipment repair. I love this video because there is no unnecessary talking. You get right to the point and you aren’t too chatty. Thank you for that!
This saved my day. I bought a 5000.00 dollar baileigh 12" table saw they thought the motor was burnt up. I replaced the start capacitor and still wouldn't get up to speed. I then saw this video and adjusted the centrifugal switch and presto. 5000 saw for 500
This video is only one that I could find on RUclips that shows how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Great job of explaining how to test the capacitor too and thank you for showing how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Your video is clear and easy to understant.
I'm not owner of any product of Grizzly but this is the real support you provide to your customers thanks lot for info that helped me to identify an issue I have on 3HP motor for long time . thumps up and liked ❤👍🏼
This was actually pretty useful and I got a new aspect (testing the capacitor) of motor diagnosis and understanding! I am so new to the motor side of machines, but I've had to dive into it while I continue with the Walker-Turner table saw restoration on my channel. I've had to take this a step further and try to learn about wiring, which I have zero experience with, but I'm nearing the end of the motor restoration, so it's one of the final steps at this point. Now, don't take me wrong, I'm not going to do some hack dangerous wannabe job, just trying to learn enough of the basics before I pass the wiring/cord/circuit breaker switch hookup to an electrician. Thanks for the quick video.
I needed this! My band saw took a dump while cutting a bar of 12L14. I suspected the cap. Melted! Dropped in a new one and went to work. 90 seconds later, a pop from the capacitor cover and magic blue smoke comes out. Thinking about the problem while machining a block it dawns on me that I'm not hearing a click and I bet it's a switch. Bread crumb trail of clues lead here. I'll follow up.
As a machine tech, I've done this many times. I have taken a file to the contacts to remove pitting. This does work but will not last as long as a new set of contacts. After filing, set the switch the way the video says to. It's a good idea to order a new centrifugal switch after filing the contacts, They are not that expensive and you can have them on hand when the filed set quit on you. All you really need is the shaft diameter where the switch is mounted and check that the mounting screw spacing is the ame, you can order them online. You can even look for the best price because the filed set will last for a while.
Fantastic video. I would recommend covering testing the capacitance of the capacitor with a digital multimeter as well. A lot of digital meters come with capacitance testing functions now.
I had the same problem with a different make of motor, same principle though. I Cleaned the points which other than being dirty were fine. Now now air compressor works just fine. I talked with a gentleman about my problem, as soon as I turned the switch on the circuit breaker blew I thought the capacitors were bad. They were good. The gentleman told me about the points and said if they are dirty or bad that could be tripping the breaker . I guess he was correct cause after I cleaned the points it's working just fine
Tutorials like these are one of the reasons I like to buy equipment from Grizzly. This one really saved my bacon and got me back up and running. Thanks Grizzly!
Hi, thanks for sharing the knowledge. I am having problem with a tyre changing machine. it's a single phase motor with 1 capacitor. It spins fine clockwise. When switch operated to turn anti-clockwise, it tries to turn but not moving. If manually pushed, it starts spinning normally until you take your foot of the switch.. I have replaced internal reversing polarity switch but no joy. Can the centrifugal switch be at fault?
Hi Kenny, I'm sorry to hear that. Please reach out to our team of experts: Technical Support (570) 546-9663 M-F 8:00 am - 6:00 pm EST techsupport@grizzly.com
Trouble shooting a start up failure on a G0454ZW 20" planer and traced it to the centrifugal switch; the bolt that holds it to the shaft had come loose. My question is this: can I use medium strength thread thread lock or is that not recommended? Thanks . . .
I am having an issue mith my Grizzly G4003 Metal lathe's motor. I have found it was a bad start capacitor. The motor has dual capacitors. This was the only video I could find and it was helpful. However my motor has the centrifugal switch on the same side as the output shaft. I don't really know how to adjust the switch so I'm leaving it alone for now. If you have any suggestions where I can learn about that would be appreciated. The contact points look good so I'm hoping that just replacing the capacitors will do the trick. Thanks!
Are there somesort of sensors with the switches that it detects the increase in the motors RPM in order to move break the connection b/w the motor and the capacitor?
The word of the day is centrifugal derived from concentric centerfuge and integral. Centrifugal force in Newtonian mechanics,is an inertial force that appears to act on all objects when viewed in a rotating frame of reference. So centrifugal switch is an integral switch consisting of a set of contacts, as all mechanical switches do, and a springed, weighted device affixed to the shaft of the armiture inside the motor housing, engineered with weighted dogs or counter weights which move when the inertia of the shaft had reached a set rpm via spring strength which opens or closes a the contacts, in a motors case for starting are to open a normally closed connection disengaging the starting windings on the motor leaving the remaining run windings engaged..
@@Z-Ack Thank you for the in depth explanation. I kind of wondering why are some motor use start cap.instead of run cap. on a single phase motor ? Efficiency, torque or depend on the application. Would you please further explan.Thank again for your knowledge.
Great video. If the centrifugal switch is not releasing would this cause for the motor to draw higjer current. My motor runs approximately 3amp and i have found when the switch is not opening the current jumps to 22amps. The problem was a dead capacitor which i feel was the cause from the centrifugal switch not realeasing when motor on. I find that the switch only doesn't release when the load is on the motor. Any help to diagnose is appreciated. Cheers
Air compressor 5hp motor very little smoke came out of the vents just right after I started it. I just it off right away, wondering if it’s fixable without replacing motor
Hello there! If the air compressor is one that Grizzly carries, please reach out to our technical team via our Contact center! Otherwise, we recommend reaching out to the manufacturer or retailer for recommendations on how to proceed.
so mad because what was my problem it was the coil got cut in half because of the rope that hold the coil together was too tight soldering was a working fix but can't isolate the wire with tape :S got any suggestion for isolating ? im thinking about some silicon if not too thick because silicon also isolate heat not good in a motor Thanks
Very useful video,Thanks.In my home,the motor starts slowly(when bought first,it started fast) and at some point,a small click sounds appears and the motor stopped working.The stator part is fine,which I came to know by continuity testing and capacitor is also fine.What may the possible problem in the motor?
I just replaced a bad run cap on a used 1.5 hp 115/220v motor I just got. It free ran without any load for about 2 minutes and then the cap blew.. I havent found much info on why they blow.. Hum.. Suggestions? Thank you.
Hi Grizzly Industrial Inc. I have this problem. No heat and it spins. So i check the heater, replaced with brand new heater, still no heat. Heater not turning on. Replaced the old thermostat with new thermostat, still no heat. Checked all wirings for continuity, all checked out good, sanded the terminals, still not heat. Replaced the whole motor with centrifugal switch, still no heat, heater does not turn on. I don't know where to go now. please help.
Oh my God, the level of ignorance in this video is ridiculous 🤣 - Run capacitors are discharged through the motor windings in a fraction of a second. Assuming that doesn't happen, waiting 5 minutes isn't going to discharge the capacitor. Most start-capacitors have bleed-resistors to discharge them but run capacitors are NEVER equipped with them hence you need to check for DC voltage to make sure its safe to handle! - Shorting a capacitor with a screwdriver in some cases can literally liquefy the metal tip or melt the capacitor terminals off sending molten metal flying into your face. It's best to use a bleed-resistor to slowly drain the capacitor charge instead rather than causing arc damage. - To test a capacitor it's best to setting your meter to capacitance and verify the reading falls within the specified tolerance ranging printed on the capacitors enclosure. - The main reason your centrifugal switch contacts are burnt or pitted is that most Chinese electronic component manufacturers cut corners by not alloying enough Beryllium into the contacts to prevent excessive arc burn/pitting hence they are designed to fail much sooner compared to past switch contacts! Don't even bother trying to sand the contacts because that only causes them to burn/pit even faster the next time around due to you removing even more of the Beryllium coating. The best option is to just replace the switch. - If the centrifugal switch contacts are welded together then the start-capacitor is destroyed because it doesn't have a 100% duty cycle like a run capacitor. Usually, if the start-capacitor stay in the circuit for more than a second then it typically blows the guts out of them.
I have a table saw where the motor starter switch will mot turn on. If I take off the cover and bypass the switch button and push the part on the side, the motor runs but I have to hold it with finger When I let go it shuts off. I bought a new switch and it dose the same. I'm Lost now.
Good video - placing it in action as I had a failure. I initially called Griz and spoke to a Tech after my jointer failed to come up to a proper speed. He indicated I JUST needed to replace the capacitor. So, I ordered a replacement capacitor, installed it, and turned the juice on. The new capacitor EXPLODED w/i 5 seconds!!! I contacted Griz and spoke w/ a different Tech who suggested I look at the centrifigual switch. I did and the contacts were fused together. Why didn't the first individual I spoke with inform me to check this first...??? Now I must purchase another capacitor as well as a new centrifigal switch. I've only had my G0656P 8" Jointer for about 1 1/2 yrs and have NOT run a huge amount of lumber through it - - just normal use. This isn't the first (major) problem I've had with this unit. I will NOT be coming back to Griz to purchase any other equipment from them. There are far better engineered products out there.
***** I'll pass your comment on to our Technical Service Manager. They'll be able to discuss your scenario in their weekly meetings with technical staff. It wouldn't hurt to ask for assistance with the purchase of the second capacitor and centrifugal switch when you call to place that order. Apologies for the inconvenience. :-)
Hi there! No it doesn't. They work by spring tension. As the motor comes up to full speed, the centrifugal force over comes the spring tension and the switch opens up taking the start windings out of circuit. I hope that helps!
4bennybear my coworkers as well. Im trying to figure out if this is the cause
4 года назад
@@justinhammesfahr1206 Was it the centrifugal switch? Going to tear into mine tomorrow on my dust collector. It runs but doesn't get up to full speed so I hoping the switch just worked it's way loose.
HAAAALLLLP 😂😂😂 please. I wish I could afford one of your companies cabinet saws, I’ve wanted one since I first seen one years ago! One of these days it’ll happen. If failing equipment doesn’t tank my business first…. Or keep taking what I try and save to get a grizzly!!!! I know it’s not your company but I can’t get a lick of help from Ridgid, I am just a one woman show and I my orders are just so backed up at this point I am a complete stress mess. I have a Ridgid R4512, gonna try and give as much info as I can hopefully someone can help me diagnose. So it just started making a loud rattling noise starts instantly when turned on continues after start up but instantly stops when I turn it off, and the arbor is still spinning/winding down. And kinda seems like it starts to loose power as well. Also when I felt the motor it felt pretty hot, but can still touch and leave hand there without it even being uncomfortable so not sure if that’s just normal, when this happened I was ripping strips for trellises and had been running steady for only appx 3-4 min maybe. I also ripped strips for some trim about 10 or 15 min before steadily for also only about 5min . Did not smell how ever and I got my head in the back panel and gave a good few sniffs by the motor.(yes it was unplugged) I’m pretty sure it’s something with motor though. Anyways Took off blade still made same noise. Took the belt off still made same noise. Pulled cover off capacitors, made sure they were discharged, and then for the life of me could not and still cannot find my damn multimeter🙄🙄🙄 at first glance they seem fine, I don’t see any bloating/bulging? Not sure what you’d call that. There is nothing leaking from them either. I’m not really sure if they would cause this noise or not, but checking the microfarads is still on my to do once I can find, borrow or buy another meter. I’m just hoping someone might know what causes that kind of noise and point me in the right direction. Also wondering if I’m gonna have to take the whole damn thing apart to get the motor out? Because I’m not seeing anyway to, without doing that, 😭😭😭 I spent freaking hours getting everything calibrated and fined tuned to basically perfection, I’m ocd as hell about having things like the measuring/angle guides, blades, and fence being correct. Anyways if it’s not the capacitors only thing I know to do is check the centrifugal switch, then onto the bearings and armature 😭😭😭thing is. Although seems pretty similar I’ve never worked on any electrical motor as new as this one and I’m feeling in intimidated as hell, if it were an old one I think I’d just jump right in, but these newer ones are just built cheap and I’m afraid I’m gonna mess it up more
Sorry you're having these issues. It sounds very frustrating. Troubleshooting motors can be very tricky. The rattling noise you're describing might be worn out or damaged bearings, and that can also contribute to heat build up. Good luck and be safe!
I have the south bend sb110815" planer by you guys and unfortunately the access is not nearly as convenient as it is in this video. it has a start AND run capacitor. the machine is 11 months old and I have k now idea how to trouble shoot it eecpt for your videos. all centrifugal switches and electric motors are not the same on the machines you manufacture so a ballpark video is not close to helpful for me. I paid 4 thousand dollars for a planer with no idea I would need to be a mechanical engineer in 11 months to repair it. the only option provided is to crate it up again and wait for its return. THE MANUAL COULD NOT BE MORE CONFUSING. It's for machines manufactured before 2020 and after in no competent order. I could not be more disappointed right now and had to go buy a cheap 13 inch planer and put a bunch of projects on hold until this gets fixed. you need better more specific videos and for crying out loud make a septette manual for the new machines!!!
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
Exactly the info I needed to adjust the centrifugal switch. Thank you!!
Glad it helped
the best side of internet is sharing knowledge and you are doing it in the best way.
Glad you think so!
I had this same problem on my old Grizzly G1023 table saw. It would not start and only made a very slight buzzing noise when I pressed the start button. However, it was not a bad capacitor or a switch problem. After testing the capacitor I decided to open the small cover plate on the motor that covers the junction of the power supply cord to the motor’s wiring. I found that one of the orange wire nut covers appeared to be burnt a bit. When I started to twist it off, it was loose and the two wires had very little left connecting one to the other. I stripped a bit more cover off the wires and used a new wire nut cover to connect them and a bit of electrical tape and thankfully that fixed the problem. The saw started right up!
This is such an awesome video. I very much appreciate that you are willing to help your customers fix their equipment instead of trying to get more money out of them to for equipment repair. I love this video because there is no unnecessary talking. You get right to the point and you aren’t too chatty. Thank you for that!
This saved my day. I bought a 5000.00 dollar baileigh 12" table saw they thought the motor was burnt up. I replaced the start capacitor and still wouldn't get up to speed. I then saw this video and adjusted the centrifugal switch and presto. 5000 saw for 500
This video is only one that I could find on RUclips that shows how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Great job of explaining how to test the capacitor too and thank you for showing how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Your video is clear and easy to understant.
We're so glad we could help out!
I'm not owner of any product of Grizzly but this is the real support you provide to your customers thanks lot for info that helped me to identify an issue I have on 3HP motor for long time .
thumps up and liked ❤👍🏼
Excellent presentation gentlemen!!! That was very helpful on how to adjust the centrifugal switch. I never knew that's how it work!!!! Thank you!!!
This was actually pretty useful and I got a new aspect (testing the capacitor) of motor diagnosis and understanding! I am so new to the motor side of machines, but I've had to dive into it while I continue with the Walker-Turner table saw restoration on my channel. I've had to take this a step further and try to learn about wiring, which I have zero experience with, but I'm nearing the end of the motor restoration, so it's one of the final steps at this point. Now, don't take me wrong, I'm not going to do some hack dangerous wannabe job, just trying to learn enough of the basics before I pass the wiring/cord/circuit breaker switch hookup to an electrician. Thanks for the quick video.
We are glad to help!
I needed this! My band saw took a dump while cutting a bar of 12L14. I suspected the cap. Melted! Dropped in a new one and went to work. 90 seconds later, a pop from the capacitor cover and magic blue smoke comes out.
Thinking about the problem while machining a block it dawns on me that I'm not hearing a click and I bet it's a switch. Bread crumb trail of clues lead here. I'll follow up.
The retaining screw on my centrifugal switch had come loose and the cap wasn't connected at startup. so good to fix things. great video.
Thanks so much. This video was the most clean and informative on centrifugal switch es on the tube. 👍👍
Thats how you do a how to video! Consice with good detail shots where needed, good work.
As a machine tech, I've done this many times. I have taken a file to the contacts to remove pitting. This does work but will not last as long as a new set of contacts. After filing, set the switch the way the video says to. It's a good idea to order a new centrifugal switch after filing the contacts, They are not that expensive and you can have them on hand when the filed set quit on you. All you really need is the shaft diameter where the switch is mounted and check that the mounting screw spacing is the ame, you can order them online. You can even look for the best price because the filed set will last for a while.
Fantastic video. I would recommend covering testing the capacitance of the capacitor with a digital multimeter as well. A lot of digital meters come with capacitance testing functions now.
Great video showing all details and well explained. Thank you. Michael (apprentice electrician)
BEST INFO I'VE SEEN YET, THANKS FOR SHARING
I had the same problem with a different make of motor, same principle though.
I Cleaned the points which other than being dirty were fine. Now now air compressor works just fine. I talked with a gentleman about my problem, as soon as I turned the switch on the circuit breaker blew I thought the capacitors were bad. They were good. The gentleman told me about the points and said if they are dirty or bad that could be tripping the breaker . I guess he was correct cause after I cleaned the points it's working just fine
Straight forward, simple explanation of how to diagnose and fix a common motor issue.
Really great video. You guys are awesome! Excellent production quality. Keep up the good work.
Tutorials like these are one of the reasons I like to buy equipment from Grizzly. This one really saved my bacon and got me back up and running. Thanks Grizzly!
Great video from Pen and Teller.Big thanks .Now I know what to do
funny :-)
Well explain, worth to watch from start to finish. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, thanks for sharing the knowledge. I am having problem with a tyre changing machine. it's a single phase motor with 1 capacitor. It spins fine clockwise. When switch operated to turn anti-clockwise, it tries to turn but not moving. If manually pushed, it starts spinning normally until you take your foot of the switch.. I have replaced internal reversing polarity switch but no joy. Can the centrifugal switch be at fault?
This helped me solve my tablesaw issues! Thanks a lot for posting
Glad it helped!
What are two types of multi speed motors that are used for air circulation on a furnace?
Easy Peasy! Thanks for showing this quick fix!
Hi my capacitor motor starter is raté 600uf and 150vac can i use à same but with 250vac ? Thank you
Great audio & visual quality!
I have a MODEL G0501
SLIDING TABLE SAW and scoring I raised it a lot and I can no longer lower it, I appreciate that you could help me
Hi Kenny, I'm sorry to hear that. Please reach out to our team of experts:
Technical Support
(570) 546-9663
M-F 8:00 am - 6:00 pm EST
techsupport@grizzly.com
Good from Mysore Karnataka India 👌👍🌹
Trouble shooting a start up failure on a G0454ZW 20" planer and traced it to the centrifugal switch; the bolt that holds it to the shaft had come loose. My question is this: can I use medium strength thread thread lock or is that not recommended? Thanks . . .
Not recommended.
For me I don't have a motor but I really need it, my question is which kind of Motor is good for grinding maize
I am having an issue mith my Grizzly G4003 Metal lathe's motor. I have found it was a bad start capacitor. The motor has dual capacitors. This was the only video I could find and it was helpful. However my motor has the centrifugal switch on the same side as the output shaft. I don't really know how to adjust the switch so I'm leaving it alone for now. If you have any suggestions where I can learn about that would be appreciated. The contact points look good so I'm hoping that just replacing the capacitors will do the trick. Thanks!
Are there somesort of sensors with the switches that it detects the increase in the motors RPM in order to move break the connection b/w the motor and the capacitor?
The word of the day is centrifugal derived from concentric centerfuge and integral. Centrifugal force in Newtonian mechanics,is an inertial force that appears to act on all objects when viewed in a rotating frame of reference.
So centrifugal switch is an integral switch consisting of a set of contacts, as all mechanical switches do, and a springed, weighted device affixed to the shaft of the armiture inside the motor housing, engineered with weighted dogs or counter weights which move when the inertia of the shaft had reached a set rpm via spring strength which opens or closes a the contacts, in a motors case for starting are to open a normally closed connection disengaging the starting windings on the motor leaving the remaining run windings engaged..
Or you could just go with magic...
@@Z-Ack Thank you for the in depth explanation. I kind of wondering why are some motor use start cap.instead of run cap. on a single phase motor ? Efficiency, torque or depend on the application. Would you please further explan.Thank again for your knowledge.
Great video. If the centrifugal switch is not releasing would this cause for the motor to draw higjer current. My motor runs approximately 3amp and i have found when the switch is not opening the current jumps to 22amps. The problem was a dead capacitor which i feel was the cause from the centrifugal switch not realeasing when motor on. I find that the switch only doesn't release when the load is on the motor. Any help to diagnose is appreciated. Cheers
Please reach out to our Technical Support Experts at techsupport@grizzly.com for assistance.
Thank you, kindly! Exactly what I was looking for.
I’m confused by placing switch towards “fan end of motor” bc in my mind the motor is behind the switch plate. Will you clarify?
this is how it should be done one of the best yet great and done with stylex
Air compressor 5hp motor very little smoke came out of the vents just right after I started it. I just it off right away, wondering if it’s fixable without replacing motor
Hello there! If the air compressor is one that Grizzly carries, please reach out to our technical team via our Contact center! Otherwise, we recommend reaching out to the manufacturer or retailer for recommendations on how to proceed.
Good information, well presented. Thanks Grizzly!
Great video, well done
Thank you excellent instruction👍
What an excellent video, thank you
Would similar principles apply for an old ca. 1940s Dayton motor?
A lot has changed since 1940....not sure.
@@grizzlymachines Thanks, anyways.
very good presentation, thank u sirs...
have really liked this video......still looking for more troubleshoots
Fantastic video.
Thank you very much!
Excellent thank for sharing 💗
so mad because what was my problem it was the coil got cut in half because of the rope that hold the coil together was too tight
soldering was a working fix but can't isolate the wire with tape :S
got any suggestion for isolating ?
im thinking about some silicon if not too thick because silicon also isolate heat not good in a motor
Thanks
Very clear explanation more power
Glad to hear that
Excellent video
Really Helpful, Thank you!
thanks for the fix, worked right away!
Great to hear!
Well explained.
Thank you for that sharing sir.
nice.
thanx for sharing knowledge..
Good Presentation
Thank you very much sir 🎉
is there a specific gap im supposed to have between the 2 nodes after the centrifigal switch?
How many millivolts should a good Thermopile produce?
great video, thanks a lot
Very useful video,Thanks.In my home,the motor starts slowly(when bought first,it started fast) and at some point,a small click sounds appears and the motor stopped working.The stator part is fine,which I came to know by continuity testing and capacitor is also fine.What may the possible problem in the motor?
There's always something useful to learn.
Absolutely!
Thank you. Big help
Great job ❤thank you so much
I just replaced a bad run cap on a used 1.5 hp 115/220v motor I just got. It free ran without any load for about 2 minutes and then the cap blew.. I havent found much info on why they blow.. Hum.. Suggestions? Thank you.
Hi there! If the capacitors are blowing that fast then the contact points for the centrifugal switch are likely stuck together. Hope that helps!
I noticed the capacitor did not have the normal microfarad rating symbol., a u with the tail. It had a capital M instead. Is this a different value?
6:23 the “M” or “u” are both prefixes for “micro”
I did not realize that. I would’ve thought the capital M was mega. Thank you.
Nice, thanks.
Retaining screw head stripped off when trying to loosen!!! Careful. Had to tap.
Hi Grizzly Industrial Inc. I have this problem. No heat and it spins. So i check the heater, replaced with brand new heater, still no heat. Heater not turning on. Replaced the old thermostat with new thermostat, still no heat. Checked all wirings for continuity, all checked out good, sanded the terminals, still not heat. Replaced the whole motor with centrifugal switch, still no heat, heater does not turn on. I don't know where to go now. please help.
Hi Jake. Please give our Technical Department a call for assistance as they will be your best resource. 570-546-9663
thanks alot
My shaper motor loses power under a load and slows down rpm. What can cause this to happen? It can start and run easy.
One of great video tutorial, very informative❤❤❤
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭❤
Do all single phase motors need a centrifugal switch ?
No. Only cap start motors
Oh my God, the level of ignorance in this video is ridiculous 🤣
- Run capacitors are discharged through the motor windings in a fraction of a second. Assuming that doesn't happen, waiting 5 minutes isn't going to discharge the capacitor. Most start-capacitors have bleed-resistors to discharge them but run capacitors are NEVER equipped with them hence you need to check for DC voltage to make sure its safe to handle!
- Shorting a capacitor with a screwdriver in some cases can literally liquefy the metal tip or melt the capacitor terminals off sending molten metal flying into your face. It's best to use a bleed-resistor to slowly drain the capacitor charge instead rather than causing arc damage.
- To test a capacitor it's best to setting your meter to capacitance and verify the reading falls within the specified tolerance ranging printed on the capacitors enclosure.
- The main reason your centrifugal switch contacts are burnt or pitted is that most Chinese electronic component manufacturers cut corners by not alloying enough Beryllium into the contacts to prevent excessive arc burn/pitting hence they are designed to fail much sooner compared to past switch contacts! Don't even bother trying to sand the contacts because that only causes them to burn/pit even faster the next time around due to you removing even more of the Beryllium coating. The best option is to just replace the switch.
- If the centrifugal switch contacts are welded together then the start-capacitor is destroyed because it doesn't have a 100% duty cycle like a run capacitor. Usually, if the start-capacitor stay in the circuit for more than a second then it typically blows the guts out of them.
I have a table saw where the motor starter switch will mot turn on. If I take off the cover and bypass the switch button and push the part on the side, the motor runs but I have to hold it with finger When I let go it shuts off. I bought a new switch and it dose the same. I'm Lost now.
The problem is not the switch. Check the capacitor like in the video
Where can I get centrifugal switch replacements
Hi Ron, please reach out to our customer service team for assistance at csr@grizzly.com.
Good video - placing it in action as I had a failure. I initially called Griz and spoke to a Tech after my jointer failed to come up to a proper speed. He indicated I JUST needed to replace the capacitor. So, I ordered a replacement capacitor, installed it, and turned the juice on. The new capacitor EXPLODED w/i 5 seconds!!! I contacted Griz and spoke w/ a different Tech who suggested I look at the centrifigual switch. I did and the contacts were fused together. Why didn't the first individual I spoke with inform me to check this first...??? Now I must purchase another capacitor as well as a new centrifigal switch.
I've only had my G0656P 8" Jointer for about 1 1/2 yrs and have NOT run a huge amount of lumber through it - - just normal use. This isn't the first (major) problem I've had with this unit. I will NOT be coming back to Griz to purchase any other equipment from them. There are far better engineered products out there.
***** I'll pass your comment on to our Technical Service Manager. They'll be able to discuss your scenario in their weekly meetings with technical staff. It wouldn't hurt to ask for assistance with the purchase of the second capacitor and centrifugal switch when you call to place that order. Apologies for the inconvenience. :-)
Grizzly Industrial
I have a 12,000.00 lemon from Grizzly.
Does a centrifugal switch sense the speed of a motor?
Hi there! No it doesn't. They work by spring tension. As the motor comes up to full speed, the centrifugal force over comes the spring tension and the switch opens up taking the start windings out of circuit. I hope that helps!
@@grizzlymachines thanks a bunch🤜
I'm afraid the big grizzly at the left in the beginning of the video will devour the little rabbit on the right before the end... I can't go further!
Alain Blanchard.
You are safe to watch. It did not happen.
Just watch out for the capacitor.
Big Kent and Little Shaun...
He look like grizzly next to shawn...lol
Paano b Ang pag babalek ng kapasetor
Hi . I have a centrifugal pump 2.2kw AC single phase motor. Can I run it on solar without using batteries and inverter
Mine starts but dosnt step up to full speed
4bennybear my coworkers as well. Im trying to figure out if this is the cause
@@justinhammesfahr1206 Was it the centrifugal switch? Going to tear into mine tomorrow on my dust collector. It runs but doesn't get up to full speed so I hoping the switch just worked it's way loose.
HAAAALLLLP 😂😂😂 please. I wish I could afford one of your companies cabinet saws, I’ve wanted one since I first seen one years ago! One of these days it’ll happen. If failing equipment doesn’t tank my business first…. Or keep taking what I try and save to get a grizzly!!!! I know it’s not your company but I can’t get a lick of help from Ridgid, I am just a one woman show and I my orders are just so backed up at this point I am a complete stress mess. I have a Ridgid R4512, gonna try and give as much info as I can hopefully someone can help me diagnose. So it just started making a loud rattling noise starts instantly when turned on continues after start up but instantly stops when I turn it off, and the arbor is still spinning/winding down. And kinda seems like it starts to loose power as well. Also when I felt the motor it felt pretty hot, but can still touch and leave hand there without it even being uncomfortable so not sure if that’s just normal, when this happened I was ripping strips for trellises and had been running steady for only appx 3-4 min maybe. I also ripped strips for some trim about 10 or 15 min before steadily for also only about 5min . Did not smell how ever and I got my head in the back panel and gave a good few sniffs by the motor.(yes it was unplugged) I’m pretty sure it’s something with motor though. Anyways Took off blade still made same noise. Took the belt off still made same noise. Pulled cover off capacitors, made sure they were discharged, and then for the life of me could not and still cannot find my damn multimeter🙄🙄🙄 at first glance they seem fine, I don’t see any bloating/bulging? Not sure what you’d call that. There is nothing leaking from them either. I’m not really sure if they would cause this noise or not, but checking the microfarads is still on my to do once I can find, borrow or buy another meter. I’m just hoping someone might know what causes that kind of noise and point me in the right direction. Also wondering if I’m gonna have to take the whole damn thing apart to get the motor out? Because I’m not seeing anyway to, without doing that, 😭😭😭 I spent freaking hours getting everything calibrated and fined tuned to basically perfection, I’m ocd as hell about having things like the measuring/angle guides, blades, and fence being correct. Anyways if it’s not the capacitors only thing I know to do is check the centrifugal switch, then onto the bearings and armature 😭😭😭thing is. Although seems pretty similar I’ve never worked on any electrical motor as new as this one and I’m feeling in intimidated as hell, if it were an old one I think I’d just jump right in, but these newer ones are just built cheap and I’m afraid I’m gonna mess it up more
Sorry you're having these issues. It sounds very frustrating. Troubleshooting motors can be very tricky. The rattling noise you're describing might be worn out or damaged bearings, and that can also contribute to heat build up. Good luck and be safe!
This is adjustments 3:47
5:00
I have the south bend sb110815" planer by you guys and unfortunately the access is not nearly as convenient as it is in this video. it has a start AND run capacitor. the machine is 11 months old and I have k now idea how to trouble shoot it eecpt for your videos. all centrifugal switches and electric motors are not the same on the machines you manufacture so a ballpark video is not close to helpful for me. I paid 4 thousand dollars for a planer with no idea I would need to be a mechanical engineer in 11 months to repair it. the only option provided is to crate it up again and wait for its return. THE MANUAL COULD NOT BE MORE CONFUSING. It's for machines manufactured before 2020 and after in no competent order. I could not be more disappointed right now and had to go buy a cheap 13 inch planer and put a bunch of projects on hold until this gets fixed. you need better more specific videos and for crying out loud make a septette manual for the new machines!!!
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
It’s absurd that companies who want respect & loyalty don’t make useful/accurate manuals readily available, with ongoing repair parts available at a reasonable price.
Not very technical.
Sean is afraid of you.