How to Take Care of Stiff Fingers From Climbing and Arthritis
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Learn how to take care of stiff fingers with these 6 easy tendon gliding and joint mobility exercises. While geared towards rock climbers and boulderers, anyone with finger arthritis, stiffness and pain will also benefit from these exercises.
Burke Selbst PT OCS is a physical therapist, adventurer and educator and is the owner of Focus Physical Therapy in Bend Oregon.
focusptbend.com
Disclaimer
Any information on injuries and treatments available on this channel is intended for general guidance only and is not a substitute for personalized and individualized advice by a qualified health professional. All information is provided 'as is'.
I’m a crocheter/knitter/crafter and have arthritis in my hands so I get stiff when I work on projects daily or for longer periods.
These are surprisingly helpful for people like me who use our hands repeatedly. Thank you.
I followed along once at regular speed and then replayed and followed along at .25 speed. I am exhausted. I clearly needed this video. Adding to Favorites. Thank you.
Starts at 0:30
super helpful thank you!
thank you for this video. i am a professional musician (violinist) and very worried about losing agility in my fingers because of climbing. i can feel a difference the days after i climb (i only climb on rocks, either at the crag or long multipitch routes). i am worried the stiffness and soreness i feel affect not only my practicing of the days after but i am scared it could be something that gradually makes me lose agility. is it possible to prevent this? is it possible to still climb hard and not lose any agility for the violin? thank you so much in advance :)
Thank you! Having some trigger finger locking & it's scary. THANK YOU so much for providing these exercises❤
I have to slow the speed way down & sometimes the middle finger locks; I just gently pull it open. Any suggestions?
Look for a Hand surgery especialist
Thank you, very helpful. I am a musician by trade but I'm just getting into climbing. I want to climb but I dont want to compromise my musicianship. Any further tips or suggestions that could help?
Thanks for your question and glad to hear you're getting into climbing! For any musician who needs finger dexterity, strength and needs to avoid injuries, I would recommend a very gradual schedule of climbing - those connective tissues take much longer to recover than muscles, so plan to keep climbing volume low, and include extra recovery days between climbing sessions especially if you are prepping for a performance and have increased playing time. If we're talking gym climbing and the opportunity to do lots of routes, a musician could try limiting a session to initially 8-10 routes with 2 days recovery between and watch for excess joint stiffness. Technically speaking, make moves statically and no dynos or overly dynamic reaches or grabs - watch out when you start to fatigue! Good luck!
What do you got specifically for guitarists? I had carpal tunnel surgery in 2008, from working in machine shop. Had a lot of stiffness since then sometimes less sometimes more. Right now very bad stiffness. I must cure it so I can keep playing and improving. I have to beat this thing so I can play the required amount of time, like 4-8 hours a day. What do you got? I have no time for climbing, all my time and total effort is on guitar.
Thx for watching and kudos on your dedication to guitar! I still love to play but not 4-8 hrs a day! There are enough musicians looking for help that I’d like to develop a series just for them, so stay tuned. In the meantime joints generally like warmth and motion. Deep warmth like wax baths can be helpful when things are particularly bad. Hang in there and share some vids of your guitar playing!
Appreciate the video!
I started climbing around 3 months ago and have had some sensitivity specifically in my DIP joints.
I feel as though it’s just my tendons/ligaments getting used to the abnormal amount of load when crimping. It started in my left ring finger then slowly started in my middle finger then my index. Same with my right hand, but not quite as soon, assuming that is because I am right handed and my right hand DIP joint areas would have been slightly more conditioned?
I had to lay off the crimps and hard climbs for a couple of weeks to let them calm down. But now that I’m getting back into the hard stuff, I feel it coming back, but not as severe!
Do you think this issue will come to an end once my fingers are conditioned enough or do you think this is an underlying issue maybe?
Thank you! Have a great day.
thanks for watching! hard to answer your question without doing an exam, but in most cases the connective tissue does change to accomodate hard climbing loads over the course of a few months but only if those tissues have a chance to recover (and get stronger) between efforts. Good luck and have fun climbing!
@@burkeselbst1776 Roger that!
I appreciate such a quick reply 🙂
I’ll be sure to keep them in mind at all times. If they get anywhere near how bad they were the first time I decided to take a break. I’ll definitely be taking about break and maybe using the pyramid technique to work my way back up.
yo ! Thank you for ur insights !
About the thumb I was helping my friend Last night and my thumb feels stiff
in general the same principle applies to the two joints of the thumb. perhaps i'll make a thumb specific video! thanks for watching!
I have pain in the knuckles of my middle and pointer fingers when I grab a crimp or try to full crimp. Do you have any suggestions?
Also I have been climbing for about a decade and am competing on a national level but can’t straighten any of my fingers.
How many sets and reps pls?
in general I recommend during peak periods of finger stiffness to do 1x10 every 2 hours, and approximately 5-10 reps twice daily for general maintenance
I can't flex my fingers whatsoever. This was caused by improper use of crutches.... I met a physiotherapist who said he'll have to crack the fingers by force. He tried it but the pain is excruciating so I had to stop him. What are my best options to regain the use of my fingers/palm
sorry to hear about your injury - this is not something I've seen or treated before. I'd definitely recommend consulting a hand expert or hand therapy specialist before forcing them. Good luck