1940 Wooden Seaplane Tender | Deck Beam Repairs | Episode 36 ⚓
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- Опубликовано: 13 май 2024
- Welcome to episode 36 of the wooden boat liveaboard journey. In this episode I started back replacing the other Mahogany trim to the foremost cabin side. Then we removed and replaced the rotten interior beam which supports the starboard deck. New ducting and attachments also arrived for the diesel heater!
My channel is dedicated to sharing the process of restoring and repairing a beautiful 1940 Seaplane Tender into a fully functional liveaboard.
The boat is a 1940 seaplane tender initially used by the Royal Air Force during WW2. The hull is built of double diagonal mahogany hull planking and oak ribs. My parents bought this boat more than 30 years ago and used it for weekend trips up the lake. Unfortunately, as they became busy with work it was left idle for many years falling into disrepair. So I've started to invest time into repairing the boat and transforming it into a liveaboard.
I upload weekly episodes here on my RUclips channel, so make sure to subscribe not to miss out.
Thanks for the support and as always stay productive and have fun creating!
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Good to see you using a Yankee screwdriver. My father used one years ago on his boat. I still have it.
Great job...cant wait to see more....from John in Adelaide, South Australia.
Well slow but sure you are doing one heck of a good job. Looks like soon you'll have all the rotten wood replaced. Anxious to see you start getting some paint on the old girl.
Well done it's coming on nicely love it 😊😊
My friend your doing a great job, on your boat, lookin good,
Well Done.
Great job looking good. 😅😅 Okay to split in two as with using the epoxy supplies extra strength which they really didn,t back in the day 😮. Diesel Heater will make it quicker to get warm altho fire is good but takes time to spool up and slowly dry inside out. 😅 New Light looks great sorta period correct go for soft LED bulb easier on the eyes.😊 I am restoring glass over ply 24 ft twin outboard Launch currently re doing wiring. 😮😅. Keep at it Chap.😊😊
I enjoy watching, thanks good luck
Looking good! Keep up the good work.
Brass flatheads are what was originally used on boats of this era.
Taking care of the interior rot. Light and heat. Help and advice from dad.
Хороший контент👍👍👍
Finally got caught up on all the recent episodes. You have my admiration for your patience with removing some of those old brass screws and taking care in removing beams (I’d personally be taking shortcuts and applying that oscillating multi-tool to sooo many things)
How is the diesel heater working? Is it causing any major condensation inside?
doing a fine job! huge task to rebuild a wood ship! tip, get a cordless sawzall with wood&metal blades would speed up your demo tasks a-lot,you can get blades 12" long or short as 4". hope this aids in your rebuild.
Thanks for watching. I do need to get metal blades for the corded multitool I am using as I could just snip off any screws or stainless nails.
@@LakesideProductions i have used both and the sawzall is way more aggressive and the blades last 10 times longer, i use the multi tool for more accurate cuts while demo you just want it out of the way!
Good job, man. The beam you replaced is called a carlin. Looks like you used pine. I definitely would have used white oak, but it should be fine, given that you covered it with epoxy.
Thanks for commenting the name. Yeah pine is easily accessible here, I will be using oak and other hard timbers for exterior repairs. The engine room hatch sides will need some good strong timber soon. Hopefully I can get enough oak. Thanks for following along!
The plank you are working on is called a 'carlin' by the way.
so its looking great ! Are your intentions on living aboard this summer or next fall ?what's your fuel capacity ? Can you make long trips and maybe run the canals throughout England ?
The goal is to be living aboard this Summer once I get the decks and remaining forecabin roof fibreglassed and epoxied. I can focus on the interior then. I'm in the North West of Ireland and plan to explore the lake once we get the engines fixed up or possibly an outboard to ger her motoring about.
@@LakesideProductions could you get to the canals in England from there ?
Very interesting WW II boat with twin engines all the way aft. Are they original to the boat?
From memory, it was a seaplane tender during the war. Edit: And I just noticed that info is in the description! 🙄
I'm also curious about the engines. I saw them in an earlier episode, and they did look old, but I don't know whether they're original.
@@jaygee5693 They look like Ford V8s - in the 40s Ford V8s were still flatheads AFAIK
@@Madiba100 If they are Fords then I think it may have been reengined. I've heard of Perkins diesel and Meadows petrol, both 100hp, being original in them. I haven't heard of Ford producing or marinising boat engines in WW2, and couldn't find anything in a quick search. It will be interesting when he gets around to working on them.
@@jaygee5693 The engines were changed out from the original Perkins to two Volvo Penta V6's with outdrives.
@@LakesideProductions Thanks for the clarification, seems like an excellent upgrade, with double the power and no through-hulls to worry about. 👍
What is the purpose of using flat head screws rather than Phillips head screws. Isn't it easier to work with Phillips head? I remember using that type of screwdriver when I was a kid and it would always slip off out gauge into the wood.
Nice to see you using some old tools, they are much more tactile.
It's very easy to overtighten and rip out/ up screws into wood with a power drill ...doubly of they are brass. A Yankees a nice balance and you can feel if it binds.👍🏼
Taking out all visibly rotten wood still won't stop the dry rot spores . It will just spread.. Not trying to be a bummer btw.There's a special injectable resin thats made for killing the spores.
Any rotten wood that is visible or not visible I am replacing where possible. Unfortunutely any of those injectible resins don't seem to be sold around here and I cannot seem to see any online either. I'm also running a dehumidifier any time I am not in the boat or heating it, especially making sure to run it during the nights to keeping humidity low. The boat interior is now dry so rot is not spreading at least above the water line, from the rubbing strake down below the water line is all fibreglasses. Hope to get her lifted out in the near future.
I subscribed in the past but got unsubscribed at some point don’t know why but this has happened to other accounts as well
Thanks for subscribing again and thanks for watching.
Why do you not use your cordless drill as a screw driver and get some modern Philips screws ?? You'd get your work done in half the time . Love the videos but come out of the stone age Me Bucko .
We did use a bunch of brass Philips screws for the bow repair. The brass and bronze flathead screws are working for me. I want to minimise mixing metals on the boat as much as possible. Thanks for watching.