Toyota High Idle, No Codes (1996 4Runner V6)
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2019
- This legendary 1996 Toyota 4Runner runs fantastic with 235k miles on the clock. However, the idle is always annoyingly high! What could be the culprit?
Let's use some logic to pinpoint the issue quickly and efficiently.
Enjoy!
Ivan 
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I had this same symptom years ago on my 98 Chevy Silverado. High idle all of the time. Back then I didn't have a scanner so I threw some parts at it. I think I changed either the IAC or TPS. That didn't fix anything. I went on one of the online forums and someone told me it was probably my thermostat sticking open and that the engine was not getting up to normal operating temperature. He was right. I put a thermostat in it and the problem was fixed.
Excellent process Ivan! You're really getting better at this diag stuff! Keeping it simple! 2 thumbs up!! 👍👍😊🤗
Great diagnosis Ivan. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Dude one hell of a vid, you couldn’t explain it any better. Top notch bro....
Hi Ivan, love your video's. I watch them all and enjoy the diagnostic skills of you, Eric and Keith, the best trio on the You Tube.
New sub here! I recently bought a 97 4runner Ltd identical color and everything to the one in this vid too and I love how thorough u are with ur explanation. Thx for the great content!
I knew a 4Runner video was coming. Saw the 4Runner in your list of vehicles on the Verus in the Silhouette video.
can't wait for part deux. thanks Ivan.
A faulty ECT causes a long crank or no start. Luckily, google is our friend. Checked data and the ECT temp never moved past 50 degrees even though the customer brought it in running. This is also great info since I haven’t seen this on a Toyota yet. Very small shop and mostly newer cars, 2006 and up. Thanks!!!! 😊👌🏽
High idle issues can be confusing. I was thinking dirty TB for a minute but the temp was a give away. Thanks Ivan!
Same here but I was also leaning towards the iac. Same thing happened to my wife's 4runner. Cleaned the TB and it helped, changed the iac and problem solved. On a side note, the temp was normal.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate how you narrate your logic-tracks, especially the dead-ends and "nope, not that"... '96 3.4L Taco w/340k has similar symptoms, but maybe not the same culprit - this is getting me a whole lot closer!
Senor ivan muy sweet . Looks like that snap on versus will pay for it self fairly quickly.Gave up on my car took to Subaru only shop . They're honest and fair. Wrenchrite in branford, ct.2006 sti with too many issues po448, 447, pcm issues,boost issues and clutch replacement with Exedy stage1 kit.Ivan much thanks for all your videos
That 11% TPS reading would've made me think it was sticking open due to buildup in the throttle body. I guess not!
The tps percentage could throw you off but I usually rely on the actual tps voltage for those era Toyota. Wish I could see the IAC percentage at hot idle. Thanks again for your vid and time Ivan.👍🏾
As Always Sir, Outstanding Job!! Thanks For Sharing!!!
"Spoiler alert" Wow! I totally thought it was going to be related to IAC or EVAP Purge solenoid stock open... looking at some Loop state (Open / close) at the beginning would help a lot just like the temp PID did. Thank you Ivan!
Ha ha 96 with no codes. Just like Ivan said before “Back when OBD2 first came out and something had to be falling off the car for a code to set.”
Just wanted to say thank you. I hadn't considered the thermostat to be a player in my high idle. By putting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator, I was able to bring the temp up. At about 175° the rpm started dropping significantly. New thermostat will be in tomorrow. Thanks again!
Nice! Yeah older Toyotas only drop the idle down to spec at normal operating temp :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I appreciate the video. My scan tool was reading at 130° "fully warmed up" haha. Always learning, I appreciate the video!
Scotty Kilmer wouldn’t believe you if you said a Toyota was in the shop being fixed lol
A thermostat is a minor repair. It's part of maintenance
Always good video thanks for your time Bill N LI NY
Nice job Ivan!
great diag Ivan.
this vehicle has a mech fan, even though it has a clutch it still turns all the time and pulls some air through the rad.
that's probably why it never got to operating temp even sitting in the shop.
properly functioning t-stat is even more important in that case.
not the first time i saw that t stat fix good vid.
Oh, man. You need a shop, lift, and me as your "go-for" boy. I'm cheap. A bed in the corner and 3 meals a day.
As you explained, Toyotas like a warm engine before reducing the gas intake. A cold engine is a start up and is equivalent to having the choke out on the old timer wagons of aother era. That said, when the choke was returned before warm up, the engine would splutter and die. So the computer knows a thing or two.
Thanks Ivan.....holy moly...thermostat.
Ivan,was this at Staten island,great video buddy
Sweet video. Sometimes others overlook the basics.
Good job Ivan.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks Ivan! Your videos are always fantastic!
Another well built vehicle right there. Imagine going 235k without doing a timing chain! 🤣 Never thought I'd see the day I'd be calling '96, "the good ol' days".
I'm still on the ORIGINAL fuel pump on my 260k mile '86 Grand Marquis. 😎 She's just now starting to get noisy enough to hear it outside the vehicle without crouching down by the rear wheel well.
I've seen quite a few cars with TPS percentages over 10% that ran just fine. Maybe a dirty throttle body. That used to raise a red flag for me when I first started diag'ing OBD-II stuff, but not anymore. Pretty nice run for a t-stat there!
Thank you Ivan. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
This guy knows what he doing.
Well done those were nice trucks.
my favorite toyota motor own a couple worked on many hard to beat bullet proof
Ivan,
Great video and interesting case study. Thank you!
God bless
Paul
The legendary 5VZ-FE. My one in my Prado idles between 600 and 900 RPM depending on temp and AC.
helpppp
Not bad for a 23 year old Toyota vehicle with 235K miles on it, to have an original thermostat go bad.
Right time
Thanks for the vid
Mine is doing the same thing. And after doing some research and confirming with a tech friend, I went and bought a Toyota OEM thermostat. based on this video, it seems to be the ticket. I'll be replacing it soon.
Was that the problem?
A laser thermometer is a good way to verify the accuracy of the temperature sensor. Just point it at the thermostat housing and compare to the scanner reading.
Love your videos Ivan. When you unplugged the ECT and the scan data temp dropped to it's min I was yelling at the screen to jump the two terminals harness side to make it go to the max temp and see if the idle drops.
Had the same(ish) issue on a 02 Echo. IAC stayed at 67% and idled at 2300rmp. Temp sensor was at 190, AC off, PS pressure sensor unplugged and no change. Commanded IAC to 35%, all was good. Leave bidirectional controls, no data PIDs changed except for RPM and IAC, back to 2300 and 67%... head scratching, coworker asking, computer digging, RUclips watching... finally went with "forums people always say 'disconnect the battery and hold the ends together for 5 min, fixes everything.' I'm out of ideas, so..."
Fixed it.
Thermostat 👍 👍 good call, I always change temp sensor and thermostats together for good measure. Unless customer is really tight on 💰
Good job
Good info On a thermostat
Nice Diag!
Thanks for sharing
The scan data changed the direction of the part to be changed. Great example of how important it is to have a scanner and be able to understand what is being displayed.
SWEEET 👍
Hey Ivan! instead of a decade box, could you ground ect like a bypass test with testlight? Would that possibly trick it into running hotter. Please advise :D
I cleaned my idle air control valve and now have a 1500 idle in park and neutral. Before it was around 600 and shutting off. That IAC sensor sends data to the ECU, right? I'm thinking I just need to drive the car for awhile till the sensor resets the data and brings the idle back down? Does that make sense?
I have a temp sensor. Comes in handy in these situations. Compare radiator and before the thermostat temp.
I like the 4runner.
By decade box is that the same as resistance substitution box? Good video btw!
similar if not the same. they call it a decade box because the first setting is 1-10 os in one ohm increments the second is 10 -100 in 10 ohm increments wired in series the third 100-1000 in 100 increments and so on
Like this thank you. 👍👊
Nice !
Yeah Ivan there is another sensor regarding engine temp. Looking at my Toyota manual there’s a Water Temperature Sender in the harness diagram. I wonder if that was what you were talking about when you unplugged the ect sensor... I’m kinda curious about it now... thx for your time
Top
I'm thinking that verification could have been acconplished by pinchhing down a radiator hose.
Yep! That will do it.
Great idea! Why didn't I think of that lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I had an '86 Olds Cutlass Ciera. Wintertime, driving to work. Heater wasn't adequate, transmission wouldn't shift into lockup on the highway. I put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and continued to drive to work. Warmed up, heater worked, shifted into 4th. Next day I replaced the thermostat. Bingo. It had been stuck open.
Nice! I use the cardboard method when temps drop consistently below 20F in the winter :)
Put down the parts cannon! Nice video!
It's a party in that garage
Ivan can't hear you in the video.Maybe fix the coolant temp prior to playing with idle? Should not take that long to warm up.does it have separate sensing signals? Can you check the input at the ECU? I would definitely clean that linkage and throttle body. Good video though Ivan just need some rain water LOL ❤️
Hi Ivan, could you do a video on the basics of using the decade box? Thanks
Used them all the time in the military - just a bunch of resistors that you "align" for a resistance value you want to use. The R's are in multiples of 10, thus a "Decade Box."
Questions such as.. in an automotive setting, what sensors can we use them on, which ones we can't, what ohm range should we use, what is the computer looking for, where would be possible to hurt the computer with them etc.
@@johnc4352 if I can be of some help..... well the resistor I use is from the aeswave test kit that has banana jacks to it and I first hook to my multimeter and set the ohm resistance to where i want and lock in place. U can mimick sensors using the decade box or the variable resistor that I use. Sensor like coolant temp sensor. CODY has a video where he used the resistor to mimick the fuel level sender to make the fuel guage go up and down to verify the cluster works and indeed confirm that he had a bad fuel level sensor. On a mercedes I had an ambient temp sensor low circuit code and I used my resistor to see a change on the scan tool. The sensor was ripped off from a bumper damage and it was just wires hanging so to make sure I was on the right circuit I hooked the resistor in place of the missing sensor to see if I can make the computer react and indeed it did. I set it low to like 30-50 ohms to be on the safe side and then if I want to see a little more change I turn the knob a little. Various things u can use it on so u can be the computer and see a change. Very powerful diagnostic arsenal in ur box. Hope this helps. Hope others can jive in as well
Thanks, I think this is an interesting subject and a useful and available tool to help with diagnosis.
You think a leaking valve cover issue could cause the high idle issues? Don't think it's my IAC or throttle body, both cleaned and reassembled, no diff at all.. I know I have an oil leak on the back of the pass valve cover.. Been waitin to do the valve gaskets when I do timing.. When I start it it hovers around 1800 till it warms up, but still won't go under 1200 or so.. 95 sr5 T100.. Great vid..
You could always use a turbo heater pointed at the radiator and warm engine up.
Those toyotas like to idle high until the coolant temp is above 165ish.. I bet something is up with the tstat. I didnt finish the video i wrote this as soon as i saw your coolant temp pid going down from 150 to 140. Pinch the upper radiator hose off.
thanks awesome
great diag
I had similar issues with my 1997 T100 3.4L engine, 243K miles. I chased this high idle issue through a number of possible solutions and ended up with the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor, located top of the block, forward, just under the fuel system tubes that feed the fuel injection rails. Here's a how to ruclips.net/video/kyn94-CU1VQ/видео.html . The ECT is connected to the computer and is a different thing from the temp sensor that gives data to the meter on the dash. What was happening is the ECT was telling the computer that the engine was not warmed up yet so the computer was racing the engine to bring the temp up. I could go across town without ever touching the gas pedal. Replacing the ECT sensor cost me about $36 which included the new ECT and a 19MM 1/2"drive DEEP socket to drive the ECT. It took me about 45 minutes to get in, replace and get out... and I'm not a "car guy".
what made you think that it was the ETC censor that was the culprit?
Point a infrared temp sensor at the thermostat housing or where the temp sensor is located quick way to verify scan temp data usually within 10 degrees of each other
Everybody else goes straight to cleaning the throttle body then adjusting the iac by clocking it down.. but the temp is a direct relation to the idle as well as the evap and bunna crap also…
I’m having this issue but I just replaced my thermostat about a 2 weeks ago. It wasn’t until the last couple of days where I’m having idling issues. However when I come to a complete stop at a intersection that’s when it seems to happen the most.
Those idle air control valves like to seize up if someone cleans the throttle body and lets all the cleaner go into the hole that leads to the IAC. to unstick them you have to pretty much flood the IAC port over and over again with throttle body cleaner while it’s running. I find that it’s best to just wipe these ones out.
I’m only a few minutes so I have to wait and see what you find.
Ah. The thermostat was the cause. Don’t see too many of those fail. Wonder if it was an aftermarket one.
PROBABLY ALL those sensors are getting tired. Shoot it with some parts 👍 👍
Yes, use you favorite supplier. eBay.
@@Mark-vc7rm lmao😂😂😂
I would like to know what is the name of the scanner you're using in this video
At that mileage, it's a good idea to do the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner,
etc....etc.
👍👍
Bad thermostats can really mess with the engine computer. At times I have seen where the computer will not run the emission readiness monitors so the vehicle can pass inspection. If the temperature does not get to 180F or so, it will not run the monitors at all.
Single-cam Saturn cars of that era have intake manifold gaskets that deteriorate and eventually leak air into the intake, causing high idle.
Nice job, I was thinking a vacuum leak
Sometimes you just have to fire the Parts Cannon... But in this case, a thermostat, it's a very small cannon.
Parts Sniper Rifle :)
Is it possibly running on crank case gasses. Or is the idle air valve stuck open?
I believe the tps voltage was around 11 give or take, this said the computer was likely driving up RPM's to warm up the engine, thinking it was a cold start!
@@glenjohnson9660 Yeah after I saw the whole video that was clear but I have fixed similar problems on different cars by just having it draw brake cleaner or IPA through the idle valve depending on if its a plastic or a metal intake.
Good .
👍
One of my 2000 runners runs at 4000 rpm cold start its driving me mad Even ran fine yesterday scan data looks good on mine other then rpm thinking it's the Throttle position sensor went bad
Good
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🌷
for me is the speed throttle, i change it on my 04 lexus is300 and solved mystery. i am not a mechanic
My matrix is doing a weird high idle also and when hot goes up to 2k rpm
After shutting off and back on works fine a y leads?
Pine hollow would a head gasket leak cause same issue?
Did you rest the idle screw
Don't over think it, use a infrared therm
Have you had one with low idle in drive at stop
Ivan, I am surprised there was not a P0128 code for the low coolant temperature. That's what I had when my Saturn VUE had a bad thermostat.
not all cars have monitors for the thermostat, and less likely a 96 car.
Wow what a picky engine management computer, lucky that you remembered the strange system :-D.
When you said 'decade box' i wondered if a simple 3 pin potentiometer could stand in for the sensor.
Or a battery fed potentiometer to feed a variable voltage from it's center pin to the picky picky computer lol.
I have a 95 4runner ans my code 52 knock Sensor is on. Car seems to rub fine no rough idle and not running hot. Any suggestions?
Wonder why the ecm wasn't programmed to throw a code with low coolest stuck in open loop? Seems like the most basic code.
Lazer temperature gun❗️