Toyota 3VZE | Ep.9 | High engine idle speed EASY FIX!
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2021
- How to properly and permanently fix a high idle speed on a Toyota 3VZ-E 3.0 Liter V6 engine for basically FREE. I haven't seen this DIY anywhere on the internet, so here it is!
It's all in the Idle Air Control Valve. IACV IAC
If your threaded collar is stuck, here's a video a viewer made about a tool he had to create to get the collar to unthread: • Tool for fast idol con...
Purchase the 3VZ-E head gasket replacement parts list here: practicalenthusiast.gumroad.c...
Check out the full 1988 4Runner restoration series here: • Toyota 4Runner
Parts I used:
Throttle body gasket: amzn.to/3jfUIyQ
Throttle body / Carburetor cleaner: amzn.to/3jfUIyQ
1988 Toyota 4Runner 3VZE 
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Bro. You win the RUclips award for best presenter without over explaining. Excellent video.
I pulled over in my way to work to say this 😂👍🏻
Agreed. I can't stand those dudes that just talk to talk. It's like watching a "how to video" presented by a woman. Makes me want to slam my head in a car door 156 times.
Just tried this on my 1991 Toyota pickup and it fixed my problem! Went from an idle of 2000 to around 800-1000
This Toyota is the gift that keeps on giving you things to fix.
And Money to spend.
Hahaha, good one!
Perfect. I have the same issue with my '90 3VZE and I am just getting ready to replace the valve/head cover gaskets so a perfect time to do your tape test. Thank you. cheers.
Hi, I plugged that hole in the throttle body,
it worked, solve ALL my idling issues. I shut
The hood. Thanks.
Just finished the IAC cleanup and readjust on my 1990 4X. Road test, no code 25 and it runs SO much better than before. You are the BEST.
Thanks for the clear informative video. ' I have had a high idle problem and was going to get a used throttle body. I now know how to fix my 180,000 mile high idle problem on my 93 4Runner.
You are very attentive and that’s refreshing cause it’s all too often that “oh well it’s good enough” is thrown around nowadays and it drives me crazy! If your gonna do something do it right and have some pride! Awesome videos man! I’m guessing you live in a state you can’t get rid of the EGR and Pair valves cause it makes these 3.0s run so so much better! I also got rid of all the hard lines under the intake and ran the coolant hose from the top inlet to the metal u joint in the back of the engine bay and just cut the u to a straight and added the G-force silicon layered hose kit! But man you do good work!
Awesome video. My 3vze is doing exactly this. I thought it was odd I had a good rpm setting one day and now it just feels like it stays in cold high idle. I checked for vacuum leaks and all vac lines are not leaking. I'll definitely give this a shot.
This was such a big help on my 95 4runner. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found this before I had to go searching for it on mine. Now I will know when I fire it up. Thanks man!!
No problem, hope it helps!
Hey my friend thank you ! 1989 3vze it had the same problem ! I saw your video and it fix the high idle ! But now it has hard starter!
Excellent detective work and "proof of concept". I have a '91 pickup with the same problem that owner abandoned on his father in laws lake property 8 years ago. Because he didn't register timely when he moved from NY to Canada he was in violation. He could not drive it legally (especially since he was a lawyer). The FIL said I could have the truck if I hauled it away after I delivered his sailboat from Florida. I rented a uhaul and trailered it back to Atlanta after 4 hours trying to load because it wouldn't shift out of park. I jumped the battery off my Dodge diesel to see if that would help and it started to my amazement. It still wouldn't shift but my son disconnected that part of the mechanism when I got back to Georgia. Luckily, truck was from California and wasn't a northern rust bucket (yet).
Excellent Video - Thank You! I have a similar problem with our '91 4Runner 3VZE. At present warm idle speed is only slightly higher than it should be but will keep an eye on this. Just getting to 200K on our motor, and hoping from many more miles. Yours is a Nice Clean Motor!
Awesome video. I'll try this when I get another good day.
great content as always!
My dad found your video after having issues for weeks, I had told him it was likely something to do with the coolant because it was primarily a warm up idle issue. There actually wasn't an issue with this valve, however your test did narrow down the problem and when we got everything apart we noticed the line going to this valve was near 100% blocked, so a few squirts of carb cleaner and a little shot of compressed air got it it tip top shape again. He said he went to say "thanks" and didn't have an account set up so he asked me if I could send a monetary thank you your way. Great job man!
I have an Accord that was doing exactly this. Your theory is sound cause I did exactly this and it resolved the issue.
Brilliant video! Everything explained perfectly, and problem solved. I just finished major work on the 1MZFE on my '95 Avalon. Replaced anti-knock sensor harness (requiring air plenum and intake manifold removal), rear bank valve cover, and plugs, plus a couple of age-embrittled items that broke while servicing. It all came back together, miraculously, and engine runs great with much more power. BUT now has high fast and slow idle.
I read a lot of "solutions," but yours looks like the right one. I'm going to drive it a few days to see if the ECU "relearns" the right position, as some suggested (though I'm skeptical whether this model year even has that feature). Then I'll try your fix. BTW, that wax-filled plunger on the Intake Air Control valve is the same type of mechanism as the zone valve I recently replaced on my hot water heating system. It's a tried and true system going back over a century. You're the first RUclipsr who has explained how it works on the IAC. Makes a lot of sense that the one on my Avalon may have tired a bit in 27 years. It's probably just age-related wear on the spring. Thanks again for great video!
Nice video, VERY educational! Thanks.
I deleted the egr system removed all the unessary vacuum lines I has just have what’s needed and bumped the timing boy what a difference in power
My last vehicle was a Pickup with the 3vze, had the same issue, I'll bet this would have solved the issue for me!
Awesome video, great job
I like how you think! Thank you for this.
Well put together. Thank you. 🤙
Great video mate!
Best video of how to, Hats off. 🎩
Thanks for the info. Tomorrow i gonna fix mine.
Thank you sir, great video and explanation
Thank you Sir that was just the info I needed:))
Great update on the 4Runner. One of my issues that makes me sometimes hesitant on pre-90's vehicles. Unless they are popular ( and have a huge and active owners group....including a very active internet forum for example ). Figuring out quirky stuff like this can be a PITA. Then when one of those parts totally fails or is just becomes
worn out finding the part can also be fun ( and/or expen$ive ). But this series does make me miss one of my first project/flips...a 87 4Runner. It was a very unique transformation.
So true. I was scratching my head for a while on this one. The service manual, of course, calls this a non-servicable part so stuff like that can throw you for a loop too.
Finding a good condition with one or two owners tends to be key. A lot of times it's people modifying and hacking stuff up that tends to make some problems hard to fix. There is also a ton of support and passionate people that love these old Toyotas. Forums can be hit or miss but I like Marlin Crawler and Yotatech they should help if of you ever need it.
I'm glad I looked this up. I had concluded that idle screw had no real purpose.
The only time I've had a high idle on my 94 Pickup 3vze was when the Throttle Position Sensor went out a little after 200k miles. All the little vacuum lines have held up luckily even being an Arizona truck. It's been the larger rubber emissions lines I've had to replace and some coolant lines just as a precaution. Looking forward to seeing more of this 4Runner. I have an 87 but it's got a 22re in it.
Hola amigo sadulo desde chile
Dude your a god thank you I bet that’s exactly what my problem is
Where you get your skills Practical Enthusiast? Impressive. Glad I subscribed to your channel. I have a '86 4Runner SR5 I've owned since '88 and perform my own maintenance. Keep those educational videos coming!
From lots of trial and error haha. Thanks for watching, hope the vids are helpful!
Thanks for the no BS video.
erratic engine idle is also caused by any leaks in the air intake tube. With all the elbows and connectors there are plenty of opportunities to get leaks on older engines.
Well blow me down! If that don't beat all. I have a 94 toy pickup 3.0 V6 4x4 bought it new, never had a problem, I recently noticed that the idle was slowly getting higher and figured that an old vacuum hose was the culprit, after checking for any vacuum leaks with no luck I turned to Google which brought me hear.
Great video, now to remove throttle body ! 😢😅😊
Thanks for the great video! Guess what I'm doing tomorrow???? LOL
Very clean engine
Good job
Gr8 vid even 4 non mechanic's.
nice paint job
93 Toyota what does the same thing and I cannot figure out adjusted about everything except thank you for showing awesome nice job!!!
Same thing with me too and same year 2wd 93
Thank you so much for your posts! Very helpful. Have ever played with the TPS and adjustments?
Not on this 4Runner, but I have on a pickup with the 3VZE. I'd recommend adjusting it if the engine idle "hunts" when you press the brake at idle.
@@PracticalEnthusiast I just did the heads on my 94 4runner and replaced parts along the way...including the TPS. I pretty much set it in the middle. It doesn't "hunt" when I push on the brake. From what I gather, the TPS has to be set prior to timing it, and I am having no luck in finding a video in how to do so. No explanation in my Haynes either. Thank you for your quick reply and thank you for taking the time!
Did this today but that coolant hose in the back was a hugeeee pain. Took 2 hours just to get the one hose off
I haven't been able to remove that threaded collar that you so easily removed with a pair of scissors. I gently placed the t/b in a vise after spraying collar with PB blaster and have use a putty knife and hammer tapping that collar and still haven't moved it. I've order some Kroil penetrating oil that all swear by and try again in couple of days after receiving. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Hey thanks so much for this great video! So nice to see high quality 3vze content on here. Your video gave me the confidence to take apart my throttle body and replace the gasket. I tried opening up the IAC and spinning out the spring but I couldn’t get it to budge. I used needle nose pliers, 2 screw drivers and eventually a screw driver and a mallet but the thing wouldn’t move. I stopped not wanting to damage it. Wondering if you have any ideas on getting it to move, I’d like to screw it in further like you did. Vehicle is a 1990 pickup sr5 4x4 3vze with 99,500 miles. Thanks so much!
Check the comments on this video. Another viewer had the same issue and made a video on how they went about getting it to move.
Thank you. For others looking here is the tool you can make to free up the iac valve. ruclips.net/user/shortsvh7fkhvqq0c?feature=share
@@theblizzardof78blog did you get yours out I've made 3 sockets and let it soak and it won't move
@@coop_69 hey no i never did, never made a socket. I Ended up replacing the throttle body gasket and that helped. I also saw that my rubber air intake had cracks in it and replacing that helped as well.
I cant get the sealing collar unthreaded. I have made the tool outof a 17mm socket and it slips out. Broke first one made another. Heated it with heat gun while soaking with penetrating oil. I tried using a screwdriver and hammer and tried to get it to move tapping on one side of the slotted section. Second day and it won't budge. I never heated aluminum with a propane torch. Wonder if it would burn out the wax expansion part?
Looks like we’re gonna see more 3.SLOW content huh? I love it
SO THAT’S WHERE THE IAC VALVE IS AT? I’ve been trying to figure out where the hell it is cuz I was watching a ChrisFix video about IAC valves. Definitely gonna keep this in mind when I do work on my 3VZE again
Not much more. I only have one more video planned on the 4Runner.
Whatever it is, I’m looking forward to seeing it
Great work..so what else does you Father's 4 runner need? You got just about everything covered. ☺
Aside from the body about to rust away from the frame not much lol
@@PracticalEnthusiast 😄😄
Tu video excelente. gracias el pude reparar mi 4runner 1992. y gracias a que te paso lo de el humo yo no me espante cuando me ocurrio a mi. Saludos desde Tijuana Mexico.
Que problema tenía tu camioneta yo soy de chile y tengo una 1993
@@nicolassanmartin1777 hola, en principio paso agua a las cabezas, por lo que la repare y pues en este proceso el sistema de escape estaba saturado de sedimentos del anticongelante por lo que la limpie pero mucho de este quedo en el sistema de escape y al ya arrancarlo cuando quedo reparado por primera vez saco todo por el mofle, mi camioneta no tiene catalizador por loq ue saco todo sin problema pero si hecho mucho humo y despues de unos minutos dejo de hacerlo y todo quedo bien.
@@SoyJonathanLevi Ami yo tengo un problema soy de chile y tengo una Toyota 4 runner 1993 motor 3vze tiene algún número de wasap donde podamos hablar mejor quisas me puedes dar consejos...
@@nicolassanmartin1777 tienes facebook. Sería mejor por messenger
@@SoyJonathanLevi dale que nombre tienes ?
What would cause an rough or erratic idle that stalls this vehicle?
Although this helped, I would look next st the volume air flow meter, when I fixed that, my rpm do stay around 800 but there are times where it's erratic, so it could be 800 then 650 then 1000 it never starts at the right idle, but I have more problems than this going on, knock sensor....speed sensor aka speedo cable
Replaced speedo cable and on the way up to eureka CA, it got so hot in the exhaust it melted the cable
I just did this to my 1990 4Runner. It was a pain to get that cap screw off and I had to make a tool out of a chisel. The valve hadn't been sealing in years, I presume. There was no witness marks, just a bit of carbon buildup. Still, I didn't expect much difference, but this car is much more civilized now that the idle speed is down. It no longer feels like I'm walking a dog pulling at his lead.
Hello.
At 5' 21'' you showed the housing with what it kooks a yellow washer at the bottom. My problem is after I made a tool from a Chrome-Vanadium hard steel 1/2' drive, 1/2 socket I could remove the collar and the other pieces. Then I cleaned everything, just when I was going to put them together I noticed a very small pin on the floor, I picked it up and noticed that the yellow portion at the bottom had an empty housing to allow the pivot pin to be located within. This small pin had an indentation around one end, it looked like this was for a retainer. I couldn't find the retainer if there was one. I guess this was to prevent going deeper into the housing.
Please help. I need your expertise.
Thank you.
Moms Yota has an issue with the egr. And I see that there is an issue with a vacuum hook up labeled 'R' on the throttle body. Is it supposed to be sealed? Because it holds a vacuum and it's impossible to push any air through it.
Like a fee others, my collar was also seized on two different throttle bodies! Slapped it back together without making any changes. Im chasing an issue of stumbling starts when the motor is warm.
Cold starts are crisp but hot starts it stumbles alive
Did you happen to find a fix for this? I’m having the same issue.
Could you read my reply to your question about what I meant the advanced diog test.
95 4runner, cold idle, runs at around 1,100 rpms, when at below half, idles in drive around 800-850 range, but idle speed is high, also have a knock sensor code, but maybe that wouldn't effect idle speed, without removing idle air control valve, how much adjustment should I give that screw on the throttle body?
I bought a used throttle body and it has the same problem. I don't think either wax puck assemblies are working. I'm thinking about filling the compartment with epoxy but not sure if it will start well without a high idle speed. I do live in Florida so I don't have extreme cold to deal with. I looked and looked for another GOOD used one but the only other one I found for over $200 looks like a piece of trash.
I have the opposite problem, mine has a low idle and won’t go up, no vacuum leaks exc…. Wonder if this could be the issue
What do you mean by, 'set base ignition timing'?
I made special tool to unscrew IAC valve on my 3vze...But could never unscrew it all the way. It felt like it was turning the spring inside and would break it. I adjusted it inward a little after not being able to remove it and then the truck would only idle at around 1200 at cold start which means it takes forever to warm up. So I adjusted it again back out. I still only get cold start idle at about 1300.
I also have slightly high idle at about 950-1000 and idle adjust screw is all the way in.
Hola amigo te saludo desde chile yo tengo una Toyota 4 runner 1993 motor 3vze con unos problemas en el encendido quisas me puedes dar unos concejos
What tool did you make
Thanks for the tutorial. Where can I get the gasket as mine tore into 5 pieces?
You can't get the gaskets anymore but you could make one out of gasket material, or just smear some RTV on there.
Surprisingly my 3vze idles low as hell, too low as a matter of fact it’s always around 500-600 what do you think the problem is? It also almost stalls when down shifting (it’s a manual) and coming to a stop
Legend
my 3vz is stumbling at cruising speed feels like a miss fine under execration and at idle any ideas?
I saw you used a stubby scissor to remove the nut and a screwdriver. I’ve destroyed two IACs on my 22RE today trying to Adriatic them. Ray Nada used a socket he modified, I tried that among other things. Any advice from anyone would be appreciated. Toyota must have a SST for assembly?
I finally got it out , heat the pice with a heat gun and then use a wrench socket (home made tool) and will came out.
Have you noticed a "howling" coming from the throttle body after closing it more? I noticed after adjusting it, it runs great just has an annoying howling/humming noise.
No, I never experienced that noise. Did you clean the valve at all? It's possible there's some sort of build up on it allowing air to get by and make that sort of noise. Don't know what else it could be if it's coming from the throttle body.
Hi I have a 88 4Runner that has the same problem but it's been resting for a few due to a lack of $$ it's time to get back on the road first thing in fast forward it's hard to know what you are doing and you don't explain as much as I need but a fantastic job!!
.? Why did you not send out the block to do a complete redo ? Cost ? As you said that the rings were passing air ?
I wish I could send you my 4Runner and. Lot of cash to fix it for me.
A new fan
JoP
I didn't rebuild the engine for a few practical reasons. 1) I didn't have the time. Removing an engine, disassembling it, videoing the process, editing that video, getting parts, waiting on the machine shop, reassembly, reinstallation, takes a mountain of time. 2) I didn't have the space. Removing an engine means you need to have space for the engine crane, an engine, a transmission, etc. all while being in the middle of a cold, snowy winter when other cars can better use the garage space (i.e. my wife's car and my Z) 3) Cost is relatively minimal, so it's definitely not a large contributing factor to the decision 4) The engine, quite honestly, didn't NEED the bottom end rebuilt. It worked great until the head gasket blew, which is a independent issue from the bottom end.
When you're dealing with older cars, you can easily make a case for rebuilding/replacing everything that looks mildly worn. This is why you see so many vehicle projects become never finished, forgotten, and ultimately sold for scrap. You have to have your practical limits. This is why the engine was not rebuilt, and this is why the truck runs and drives great right now, not months or years from now.
I am having a rough idle
Any idea?
Tengo una 4runner 94 3vz-E tengo una luz de check hace 3 años anda así pero acá en panamá ya no trabajan el obd1 quien me puede ayudar con decirme donde están los sensores de oxigeno?
2 : abeses el carro me da jalones o en subidas se le bajan las revoluciones que podría ser ?
Hey i have a question regarding IAC valve - does it have to be opened a little when the engine is already warmed up or should be completely closed? Do You know at what temperature should it be closed? thanks:)
It should be completely closed when the engine is warm, but I couldn't tell you what temperature that is.
The AC works better with 1000 rpm idle and oil pressure. I've Deleted the EGR.Got rid of all the unused vacuum lines. You want believe it but I got my 4 runner to 95mph on the freeway. Because its no longer choked down. IT CAN BREATH.
What is the gasket called for the smaller cover is that closes the wax valve ! Trying to find a new gasket for that
Not available. Use silicone or make a gasket.
Why not replace the wax seal on the throttle body? Isn’t screwing it in just a temp fix? Does the wax part come out?
No part of this assembly is replaceable, aside from potentially the entire throttle body that Toyota may or may not still make (going to be a lot of $$$$ regardless). Screwing the valve in deeper is the correct fix here.
Hi hope you can help, my 3vz splutters around 4000rpm and lights start to flash, any idea where to look, im totally lost with it. Thanks in advance
I would check your ignition timing at the distributor. Could be the ignition coil as well.
Thanks man! Mine has a high idle but also the idle surges sometimes. You think this is the issue? I took the TB off and coolant goes through it nicely so I'm at a loss.
Does it surge only when the brake is depressed? If so, it is likely your throttle position sensor is out of adjustment.
My 88’ 4Runner surges at random too. Took throttle body off and cleaned it. Ran the codes for the check engine light and it shows “TPS” so gonna change that next. It’ll surge when I push the brake it but some times does it even with the brake not engaged, still could be tps? Or anything else?
I’m having problems with my 1992 Toyota V6 3.0 EFI after my suv is warmed up and my idle speed is 800 the engine dies when I shift from park to drive. If I shift from park quickly over to 2nd or 1st it’s fine the engine continue to run fine. I have checked all vacuum lines and removed the throttle body and cleaned the IAC valve. I took my suv to Toyota dealership mechanic the ran a diagnostic check everything passed. They where unable to recreate the problem. Note it’s intermittent. Any suggestions, thanks
That's a tough one. The idle control on this engine is fairly rudimentary and I don't think it has any idle-up system to account for an automatic transmission being put into drive or any other gear. That makes me suspect that something may be wrong with the torque converter. It might be partially or fully locking up when put into drive, causing the engine to die.
could also be a worn butterfly in the throttlebody
Can you list the part number from Toyota for this piece. I could not find it. My 94 is running great but this would be the last link in the puzzle.
Unfortunately Toyota doesn't sell the valve separately from the throttle body. You would have to buy the entire assembly.
I noticed you have 22R style connectors and a 22R style ignition coil and igniter. Did you swap it and why?
I never swapped it, so I'm not sure what's up there. Sure it wasn't used on early 3VZEs as well? This one is a first year (1988).
Is there a difference in fixing the throttle body with a surging idle?
The surging idle is likely a mis-adjusted throttle position sensor. I'd start there.
I have tried this before I have 3 throttle valves to deal with. All three the collar absolutely will not come loose. I even made a tool from a socket and used an impact. I don't know how all these people find these ones with loose collars. I gave up.
I did everything to it , hammer, impact wrench, heat, nothing has worked, I'll keep in trying an let you know, greetings from Quetzaltenango 🇬🇹.
Sgt Roos, John T. (Ret.) Am I the 1st? Semper Fidelis
I have a question regarding the IAC. I have a 2003 Toyota RAV4 that sputters when I first start it up and the outside temperature is below roughly -25C (-13F). Would an IAC that sticks shut cause the idle to drop far enough for it to begin sputtering (like it's running too rich)? I hope you read and respond to this, it would be greatly appreciated :)
Yep, an IAC could definitely cause that. Or, the engine temperature sensor could be at fault. This is the sensor that tells the ECU the engine temp, not the one that controls the temperature gauge.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the reply! I've already swapped out the coolant temperature sensor as that was my initial suspicion. Guess I'll have a look at the IAC next.
Sometimes those bypass pipes are plugged does not allow hot water flow...
Good point. Definitely want to check those too.
Does anyone know where to buy the iacv gasket? I can't even find a diagram of it online.
You might not be able to buy one. However, a thin smearing of RTV will work fine as a gasket here.
Would this work for low idle too? My idle adjust screw doesn’t seem to do anything in when turned in either direction. My warm idle seems about 700rpm
This would only help if you're experiencing low idle during a cold start. Interesting that the idle adjustment screw doesn't have any affect at raising the idle speed. I would check the simple stuff first, like the air filter, to make sure it isn't clogged. Then I would check for vacuum leaks because those can sometimes cause a rough and lower idle.
I got an issue on mine, it always goes to a high idle but if I rev it a bit it’ll drop to my adjusted idle. I’ve got it adjusted to 800rpm and high idle is around 1200 till I give the throttle a blip then it’ll idle back to 800. Think this could be my issue?
I haven't heard that one before. Hmm. I suppose it could be this, but I'd first check to make sure the butterfly valve or the throttle cable isn't binding somewhere.
Could you just keep it 100% sealed and deal with a longer warm up time?
You could!
My 1990 Toyota pickup sr 5 4x4 v6 3vez engine goes always up to 2000 rpm on a cold start, then after few minutes it goes to 850 like it should.... in the summer time I can deal with it, but winter time 2000 ~ 2100 rpms is way to much, I'm afraid this will screw up the engine. do you have an idea on the problem or how I could fix this? Or anyone....Thanks..
Yes i do. Screw the adjustment collar a few theads farther in. The farther in you screw it the lower your HIGH idle will be. Clean it thouroughly before reassembling it.
I have 500 rpm, I tightened the bolt as much as possible, so it consumes less fuel.
You may have lower oil pressure as a result. Not worth the risk of pressure loss.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Hey what’s up bro I did head gaskets and valve adjustments. Cleaned the whole intake manifold . All new vacuum hoses and connected. I’m staying at a low idle at around 500-550. Messing with the idle screw only makes it go to lower rpm . I can back it out almost all the way out and still won’t go past 500-550 rpm. Where should I start? I already sprayed carb cleaner and propane’d around vacuum lines and throttle body with no change in idle
Does it run fine if you maintain idle by opening the throttle? Does it seem like it is misfiring?
@@PracticalEnthusiast at first cold start up I have to press gas to get it to start. Then after that it’ll idle at 500-550rpm
@@kevinsalguero1357 have you let it warm all the way up? No misfires or rough running of any kind? I know the idle is low, but if you steadily increase the rpm, does the engine sound & run fine otherwise?
Does anyone have a part number on the IAC valve? I can't find one anywhere.
They are not available. I wish it was replaceable. The whole throttle body isn't even available anymore.
I for the life of me cannot get the threaded collar off, any tips, specific tools?
Check the comments. A few have also had difficulty removing the threaded collar and one commenter made a video of a tool he made to remove it.
Amazing where are you located. Texas ?
Thanks! Located in Kansas City.
Do you need to bleed the coolant system after disconnecting those coolant lines?
You shouldn't need to. A very small amount of coolant escapes the system (be sure to plug the hoses with bolts or something similar!) and the system will self bleed itself after a few full heat cycles.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Awesome thank you! I need to take apart my throttle body on my E30 which also has coolant lines running through it. But you know that because I'm literally going to be following the advice of your E30 videos as I deep clean my TB. Thank you for these awesome videos!