Agreed. I can't stand those dudes that just talk to talk. It's like watching a "how to video" presented by a woman. Makes me want to slam my head in a car door 156 times.
My dad found your video after having issues for weeks, I had told him it was likely something to do with the coolant because it was primarily a warm up idle issue. There actually wasn't an issue with this valve, however your test did narrow down the problem and when we got everything apart we noticed the line going to this valve was near 100% blocked, so a few squirts of carb cleaner and a little shot of compressed air got it it tip top shape again. He said he went to say "thanks" and didn't have an account set up so he asked me if I could send a monetary thank you your way. Great job man!
Perfect. I have the same issue with my '90 3VZE and I am just getting ready to replace the valve/head cover gaskets so a perfect time to do your tape test. Thank you. cheers.
Excellent detective work and "proof of concept". I have a '91 pickup with the same problem that owner abandoned on his father in laws lake property 8 years ago. Because he didn't register timely when he moved from NY to Canada he was in violation. He could not drive it legally (especially since he was a lawyer). The FIL said I could have the truck if I hauled it away after I delivered his sailboat from Florida. I rented a uhaul and trailered it back to Atlanta after 4 hours trying to load because it wouldn't shift out of park. I jumped the battery off my Dodge diesel to see if that would help and it started to my amazement. It still wouldn't shift but my son disconnected that part of the mechanism when I got back to Georgia. Luckily, truck was from California and wasn't a northern rust bucket (yet).
Thanks for the clear informative video. ' I have had a high idle problem and was going to get a used throttle body. I now know how to fix my 180,000 mile high idle problem on my 93 4Runner.
You are very attentive and that’s refreshing cause it’s all too often that “oh well it’s good enough” is thrown around nowadays and it drives me crazy! If your gonna do something do it right and have some pride! Awesome videos man! I’m guessing you live in a state you can’t get rid of the EGR and Pair valves cause it makes these 3.0s run so so much better! I also got rid of all the hard lines under the intake and ran the coolant hose from the top inlet to the metal u joint in the back of the engine bay and just cut the u to a straight and added the G-force silicon layered hose kit! But man you do good work!
Awesome video. My 3vze is doing exactly this. I thought it was odd I had a good rpm setting one day and now it just feels like it stays in cold high idle. I checked for vacuum leaks and all vac lines are not leaking. I'll definitely give this a shot.
Bro i know this video is 3 yrs old but dam tha k you very much you just saved me a trip to the mechanic it's crazy how something so simple can make a big ruckus lol I literally just changed my idler arm and my rpms dropped under 500 rpm like wth just happened lol I didn't even touch the engine thank God my iacv is working fine so all I had to do was adjust the screw long story short your a life saver thanks again for the knowledge that you shared with us youtube university all the way😅😅
Great update on the 4Runner. One of my issues that makes me sometimes hesitant on pre-90's vehicles. Unless they are popular ( and have a huge and active owners group....including a very active internet forum for example ). Figuring out quirky stuff like this can be a PITA. Then when one of those parts totally fails or is just becomes worn out finding the part can also be fun ( and/or expen$ive ). But this series does make me miss one of my first project/flips...a 87 4Runner. It was a very unique transformation.
So true. I was scratching my head for a while on this one. The service manual, of course, calls this a non-servicable part so stuff like that can throw you for a loop too.
Finding a good condition with one or two owners tends to be key. A lot of times it's people modifying and hacking stuff up that tends to make some problems hard to fix. There is also a ton of support and passionate people that love these old Toyotas. Forums can be hit or miss but I like Marlin Crawler and Yotatech they should help if of you ever need it.
Brilliant video! Everything explained perfectly, and problem solved. I just finished major work on the 1MZFE on my '95 Avalon. Replaced anti-knock sensor harness (requiring air plenum and intake manifold removal), rear bank valve cover, and plugs, plus a couple of age-embrittled items that broke while servicing. It all came back together, miraculously, and engine runs great with much more power. BUT now has high fast and slow idle. I read a lot of "solutions," but yours looks like the right one. I'm going to drive it a few days to see if the ECU "relearns" the right position, as some suggested (though I'm skeptical whether this model year even has that feature). Then I'll try your fix. BTW, that wax-filled plunger on the Intake Air Control valve is the same type of mechanism as the zone valve I recently replaced on my hot water heating system. It's a tried and true system going back over a century. You're the first RUclipsr who has explained how it works on the IAC. Makes a lot of sense that the one on my Avalon may have tired a bit in 27 years. It's probably just age-related wear on the spring. Thanks again for great video!
The only time I've had a high idle on my 94 Pickup 3vze was when the Throttle Position Sensor went out a little after 200k miles. All the little vacuum lines have held up luckily even being an Arizona truck. It's been the larger rubber emissions lines I've had to replace and some coolant lines just as a precaution. Looking forward to seeing more of this 4Runner. I have an 87 but it's got a 22re in it.
Where you get your skills Practical Enthusiast? Impressive. Glad I subscribed to your channel. I have a '86 4Runner SR5 I've owned since '88 and perform my own maintenance. Keep those educational videos coming!
Excellent Video - Thank You! I have a similar problem with our '91 4Runner 3VZE. At present warm idle speed is only slightly higher than it should be but will keep an eye on this. Just getting to 200K on our motor, and hoping from many more miles. Yours is a Nice Clean Motor!
Tu video excelente. gracias el pude reparar mi 4runner 1992. y gracias a que te paso lo de el humo yo no me espante cuando me ocurrio a mi. Saludos desde Tijuana Mexico.
@@nicolassanmartin1777 hola, en principio paso agua a las cabezas, por lo que la repare y pues en este proceso el sistema de escape estaba saturado de sedimentos del anticongelante por lo que la limpie pero mucho de este quedo en el sistema de escape y al ya arrancarlo cuando quedo reparado por primera vez saco todo por el mofle, mi camioneta no tiene catalizador por loq ue saco todo sin problema pero si hecho mucho humo y despues de unos minutos dejo de hacerlo y todo quedo bien.
@@SoyJonathanLevi Ami yo tengo un problema soy de chile y tengo una Toyota 4 runner 1993 motor 3vze tiene algún número de wasap donde podamos hablar mejor quisas me puedes dar consejos...
erratic engine idle is also caused by any leaks in the air intake tube. With all the elbows and connectors there are plenty of opportunities to get leaks on older engines.
Well blow me down! If that don't beat all. I have a 94 toy pickup 3.0 V6 4x4 bought it new, never had a problem, I recently noticed that the idle was slowly getting higher and figured that an old vacuum hose was the culprit, after checking for any vacuum leaks with no luck I turned to Google which brought me hear. Great video, now to remove throttle body ! 😢😅😊
My cold start is around 1100-1000 rpm should I do the opposite and unscrew the threaded cover more? And then once warm idle goes really low and then dies, unless I gas it.
I have tried this before I have 3 throttle valves to deal with. All three the collar absolutely will not come loose. I even made a tool from a socket and used an impact. I don't know how all these people find these ones with loose collars. I gave up.
Hey thanks so much for this great video! So nice to see high quality 3vze content on here. Your video gave me the confidence to take apart my throttle body and replace the gasket. I tried opening up the IAC and spinning out the spring but I couldn’t get it to budge. I used needle nose pliers, 2 screw drivers and eventually a screw driver and a mallet but the thing wouldn’t move. I stopped not wanting to damage it. Wondering if you have any ideas on getting it to move, I’d like to screw it in further like you did. Vehicle is a 1990 pickup sr5 4x4 3vze with 99,500 miles. Thanks so much!
@@coop_69 hey no i never did, never made a socket. I Ended up replacing the throttle body gasket and that helped. I also saw that my rubber air intake had cracks in it and replacing that helped as well.
I haven't been able to remove that threaded collar that you so easily removed with a pair of scissors. I gently placed the t/b in a vise after spraying collar with PB blaster and have use a putty knife and hammer tapping that collar and still haven't moved it. I've order some Kroil penetrating oil that all swear by and try again in couple of days after receiving. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Looks like we’re gonna see more 3.SLOW content huh? I love it SO THAT’S WHERE THE IAC VALVE IS AT? I’ve been trying to figure out where the hell it is cuz I was watching a ChrisFix video about IAC valves. Definitely gonna keep this in mind when I do work on my 3VZE again
I saw you used a stubby scissor to remove the nut and a screwdriver. I’ve destroyed two IACs on my 22RE today trying to Adriatic them. Ray Nada used a socket he modified, I tried that among other things. Any advice from anyone would be appreciated. Toyota must have a SST for assembly?
Like a fee others, my collar was also seized on two different throttle bodies! Slapped it back together without making any changes. Im chasing an issue of stumbling starts when the motor is warm. Cold starts are crisp but hot starts it stumbles alive
I just did this to my 1990 4Runner. It was a pain to get that cap screw off and I had to make a tool out of a chisel. The valve hadn't been sealing in years, I presume. There was no witness marks, just a bit of carbon buildup. Still, I didn't expect much difference, but this car is much more civilized now that the idle speed is down. It no longer feels like I'm walking a dog pulling at his lead.
@@PracticalEnthusiast I just did the heads on my 94 4runner and replaced parts along the way...including the TPS. I pretty much set it in the middle. It doesn't "hunt" when I push on the brake. From what I gather, the TPS has to be set prior to timing it, and I am having no luck in finding a video in how to do so. No explanation in my Haynes either. Thank you for your quick reply and thank you for taking the time!
Hello. At 5' 21'' you showed the housing with what it kooks a yellow washer at the bottom. My problem is after I made a tool from a Chrome-Vanadium hard steel 1/2' drive, 1/2 socket I could remove the collar and the other pieces. Then I cleaned everything, just when I was going to put them together I noticed a very small pin on the floor, I picked it up and noticed that the yellow portion at the bottom had an empty housing to allow the pivot pin to be located within. This small pin had an indentation around one end, it looked like this was for a retainer. I couldn't find the retainer if there was one. I guess this was to prevent going deeper into the housing. Please help. I need your expertise. Thank you.
I cant get the sealing collar unthreaded. I have made the tool outof a 17mm socket and it slips out. Broke first one made another. Heated it with heat gun while soaking with penetrating oil. I tried using a screwdriver and hammer and tried to get it to move tapping on one side of the slotted section. Second day and it won't budge. I never heated aluminum with a propane torch. Wonder if it would burn out the wax expansion part?
Have you noticed a "howling" coming from the throttle body after closing it more? I noticed after adjusting it, it runs great just has an annoying howling/humming noise.
No, I never experienced that noise. Did you clean the valve at all? It's possible there's some sort of build up on it allowing air to get by and make that sort of noise. Don't know what else it could be if it's coming from the throttle body.
95 4runner, cold idle, runs at around 1,100 rpms, when at below half, idles in drive around 800-850 range, but idle speed is high, also have a knock sensor code, but maybe that wouldn't effect idle speed, without removing idle air control valve, how much adjustment should I give that screw on the throttle body?
No part of this assembly is replaceable, aside from potentially the entire throttle body that Toyota may or may not still make (going to be a lot of $$$$ regardless). Screwing the valve in deeper is the correct fix here.
After cold start, how long does it take fast idle to drop to idle of 800- hundred RPM? Outside temperature about 75 f degrees on cold start. Thanks for the help. My truck is 1992 Toyota.
It's dependent on engine temperature, but at 75 degrees I wouldn't think it would trigger a fast idle. Even in freezing temps it wouldn't be more than 5 minutes at idle. If diving, it would be much faster.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the information.The engine cold start,, summer are winter will consistently run fast idle for 5 minutes and then go to idle 800 RPM. Perhaps the throttle body is the culprit.
@@patalexander1965 I'd say it's definitely in the throttle body. However the issue is likely different than shown in this video since yours does eventually drop to 800 RPM. I'd check that coolant is properly circulating though the throttle body. Could be a blockage or air in the system.
Moms Yota has an issue with the egr. And I see that there is an issue with a vacuum hook up labeled 'R' on the throttle body. Is it supposed to be sealed? Because it holds a vacuum and it's impossible to push any air through it.
The AC works better with 1000 rpm idle and oil pressure. I've Deleted the EGR.Got rid of all the unused vacuum lines. You want believe it but I got my 4 runner to 95mph on the freeway. Because its no longer choked down. IT CAN BREATH.
I bought a used throttle body and it has the same problem. I don't think either wax puck assemblies are working. I'm thinking about filling the compartment with epoxy but not sure if it will start well without a high idle speed. I do live in Florida so I don't have extreme cold to deal with. I looked and looked for another GOOD used one but the only other one I found for over $200 looks like a piece of trash.
This would only help if you're experiencing low idle during a cold start. Interesting that the idle adjustment screw doesn't have any affect at raising the idle speed. I would check the simple stuff first, like the air filter, to make sure it isn't clogged. Then I would check for vacuum leaks because those can sometimes cause a rough and lower idle.
Thanks man! Mine has a high idle but also the idle surges sometimes. You think this is the issue? I took the TB off and coolant goes through it nicely so I'm at a loss.
My 88’ 4Runner surges at random too. Took throttle body off and cleaned it. Ran the codes for the check engine light and it shows “TPS” so gonna change that next. It’ll surge when I push the brake it but some times does it even with the brake not engaged, still could be tps? Or anything else?
Surprisingly my 3vze idles low as hell, too low as a matter of fact it’s always around 500-600 what do you think the problem is? It also almost stalls when down shifting (it’s a manual) and coming to a stop
Hi I have a 88 4Runner that has the same problem but it's been resting for a few due to a lack of $$ it's time to get back on the road first thing in fast forward it's hard to know what you are doing and you don't explain as much as I need but a fantastic job!! .? Why did you not send out the block to do a complete redo ? Cost ? As you said that the rings were passing air ? I wish I could send you my 4Runner and. Lot of cash to fix it for me. A new fan JoP
I didn't rebuild the engine for a few practical reasons. 1) I didn't have the time. Removing an engine, disassembling it, videoing the process, editing that video, getting parts, waiting on the machine shop, reassembly, reinstallation, takes a mountain of time. 2) I didn't have the space. Removing an engine means you need to have space for the engine crane, an engine, a transmission, etc. all while being in the middle of a cold, snowy winter when other cars can better use the garage space (i.e. my wife's car and my Z) 3) Cost is relatively minimal, so it's definitely not a large contributing factor to the decision 4) The engine, quite honestly, didn't NEED the bottom end rebuilt. It worked great until the head gasket blew, which is a independent issue from the bottom end. When you're dealing with older cars, you can easily make a case for rebuilding/replacing everything that looks mildly worn. This is why you see so many vehicle projects become never finished, forgotten, and ultimately sold for scrap. You have to have your practical limits. This is why the engine was not rebuilt, and this is why the truck runs and drives great right now, not months or years from now.
I got an issue on mine, it always goes to a high idle but if I rev it a bit it’ll drop to my adjusted idle. I’ve got it adjusted to 800rpm and high idle is around 1200 till I give the throttle a blip then it’ll idle back to 800. Think this could be my issue?
I haven't heard that one before. Hmm. I suppose it could be this, but I'd first check to make sure the butterfly valve or the throttle cable isn't binding somewhere.
I can see 3 screw adjustments round the throttle body. (Has anybody messed with any of these? None of mine are touching the throttle cable tab. Idles perfect cold then when it's warmed up the idle goes low it wants to turn off. Thanks for the video.
You shouldn't need to. A very small amount of coolant escapes the system (be sure to plug the hoses with bolts or something similar!) and the system will self bleed itself after a few full heat cycles.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Awesome thank you! I need to take apart my throttle body on my E30 which also has coolant lines running through it. But you know that because I'm literally going to be following the advice of your E30 videos as I deep clean my TB. Thank you for these awesome videos!
I have a question regarding the IAC. I have a 2003 Toyota RAV4 that sputters when I first start it up and the outside temperature is below roughly -25C (-13F). Would an IAC that sticks shut cause the idle to drop far enough for it to begin sputtering (like it's running too rich)? I hope you read and respond to this, it would be greatly appreciated :)
Yep, an IAC could definitely cause that. Or, the engine temperature sensor could be at fault. This is the sensor that tells the ECU the engine temp, not the one that controls the temperature gauge.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the reply! I've already swapped out the coolant temperature sensor as that was my initial suspicion. Guess I'll have a look at the IAC next.
Hey i have a question regarding IAC valve - does it have to be opened a little when the engine is already warmed up or should be completely closed? Do You know at what temperature should it be closed? thanks:)
Bro. You win the RUclips award for best presenter without over explaining. Excellent video.
I pulled over in my way to work to say this 😂👍🏻
Agreed. I can't stand those dudes that just talk to talk. It's like watching a "how to video" presented by a woman. Makes me want to slam my head in a car door 156 times.
This Toyota is the gift that keeps on giving you things to fix.
And Money to spend.
Hahaha, good one!
Just tried this on my 1991 Toyota pickup and it fixed my problem! Went from an idle of 2000 to around 800-1000
My dad found your video after having issues for weeks, I had told him it was likely something to do with the coolant because it was primarily a warm up idle issue. There actually wasn't an issue with this valve, however your test did narrow down the problem and when we got everything apart we noticed the line going to this valve was near 100% blocked, so a few squirts of carb cleaner and a little shot of compressed air got it it tip top shape again. He said he went to say "thanks" and didn't have an account set up so he asked me if I could send a monetary thank you your way. Great job man!
Just finished the IAC cleanup and readjust on my 1990 4X. Road test, no code 25 and it runs SO much better than before. You are the BEST.
Perfect. I have the same issue with my '90 3VZE and I am just getting ready to replace the valve/head cover gaskets so a perfect time to do your tape test. Thank you. cheers.
Excellent detective work and "proof of concept". I have a '91 pickup with the same problem that owner abandoned on his father in laws lake property 8 years ago. Because he didn't register timely when he moved from NY to Canada he was in violation. He could not drive it legally (especially since he was a lawyer). The FIL said I could have the truck if I hauled it away after I delivered his sailboat from Florida. I rented a uhaul and trailered it back to Atlanta after 4 hours trying to load because it wouldn't shift out of park. I jumped the battery off my Dodge diesel to see if that would help and it started to my amazement. It still wouldn't shift but my son disconnected that part of the mechanism when I got back to Georgia. Luckily, truck was from California and wasn't a northern rust bucket (yet).
Thanks for the clear informative video. ' I have had a high idle problem and was going to get a used throttle body. I now know how to fix my 180,000 mile high idle problem on my 93 4Runner.
Hi, I plugged that hole in the throttle body,
it worked, solve ALL my idling issues. I shut
The hood. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
You are very attentive and that’s refreshing cause it’s all too often that “oh well it’s good enough” is thrown around nowadays and it drives me crazy! If your gonna do something do it right and have some pride! Awesome videos man! I’m guessing you live in a state you can’t get rid of the EGR and Pair valves cause it makes these 3.0s run so so much better! I also got rid of all the hard lines under the intake and ran the coolant hose from the top inlet to the metal u joint in the back of the engine bay and just cut the u to a straight and added the G-force silicon layered hose kit! But man you do good work!
This was such a big help on my 95 4runner. Thank you!
Awesome video. My 3vze is doing exactly this. I thought it was odd I had a good rpm setting one day and now it just feels like it stays in cold high idle. I checked for vacuum leaks and all vac lines are not leaking. I'll definitely give this a shot.
Bro i know this video is 3 yrs old but dam tha k you very much you just saved me a trip to the mechanic it's crazy how something so simple can make a big ruckus lol I literally just changed my idler arm and my rpms dropped under 500 rpm like wth just happened lol I didn't even touch the engine thank God my iacv is working fine so all I had to do was adjust the screw long story short your a life saver thanks again for the knowledge that you shared with us youtube university all the way😅😅
Hey my friend thank you ! 1989 3vze it had the same problem ! I saw your video and it fix the high idle ! But now it has hard starter!
Best video of how to, Hats off. 🎩
I have an Accord that was doing exactly this. Your theory is sound cause I did exactly this and it resolved the issue.
I deleted the egr system removed all the unessary vacuum lines I has just have what’s needed and bumped the timing boy what a difference in power
What degree did you set it to?
@@black_metal_luvrmines at like 13-14 btdc
Great update on the 4Runner. One of my issues that makes me sometimes hesitant on pre-90's vehicles. Unless they are popular ( and have a huge and active owners group....including a very active internet forum for example ). Figuring out quirky stuff like this can be a PITA. Then when one of those parts totally fails or is just becomes
worn out finding the part can also be fun ( and/or expen$ive ). But this series does make me miss one of my first project/flips...a 87 4Runner. It was a very unique transformation.
So true. I was scratching my head for a while on this one. The service manual, of course, calls this a non-servicable part so stuff like that can throw you for a loop too.
Finding a good condition with one or two owners tends to be key. A lot of times it's people modifying and hacking stuff up that tends to make some problems hard to fix. There is also a ton of support and passionate people that love these old Toyotas. Forums can be hit or miss but I like Marlin Crawler and Yotatech they should help if of you ever need it.
Brilliant video! Everything explained perfectly, and problem solved. I just finished major work on the 1MZFE on my '95 Avalon. Replaced anti-knock sensor harness (requiring air plenum and intake manifold removal), rear bank valve cover, and plugs, plus a couple of age-embrittled items that broke while servicing. It all came back together, miraculously, and engine runs great with much more power. BUT now has high fast and slow idle.
I read a lot of "solutions," but yours looks like the right one. I'm going to drive it a few days to see if the ECU "relearns" the right position, as some suggested (though I'm skeptical whether this model year even has that feature). Then I'll try your fix. BTW, that wax-filled plunger on the Intake Air Control valve is the same type of mechanism as the zone valve I recently replaced on my hot water heating system. It's a tried and true system going back over a century. You're the first RUclipsr who has explained how it works on the IAC. Makes a lot of sense that the one on my Avalon may have tired a bit in 27 years. It's probably just age-related wear on the spring. Thanks again for great video!
I'm so glad you found this before I had to go searching for it on mine. Now I will know when I fire it up. Thanks man!!
No problem, hope it helps!
Freaking show off! You can have a fancy dinner on that engine!
Great video.
My last vehicle was a Pickup with the 3vze, had the same issue, I'll bet this would have solved the issue for me!
I'm glad I looked this up. I had concluded that idle screw had no real purpose.
The only time I've had a high idle on my 94 Pickup 3vze was when the Throttle Position Sensor went out a little after 200k miles. All the little vacuum lines have held up luckily even being an Arizona truck. It's been the larger rubber emissions lines I've had to replace and some coolant lines just as a precaution. Looking forward to seeing more of this 4Runner. I have an 87 but it's got a 22re in it.
Hola amigo sadulo desde chile
Awesome video. I'll try this when I get another good day.
Thanks for the no BS video.
Great video and explanation, thank you!!
I like how you think! Thank you for this.
Where you get your skills Practical Enthusiast? Impressive. Glad I subscribed to your channel. I have a '86 4Runner SR5 I've owned since '88 and perform my own maintenance. Keep those educational videos coming!
From lots of trial and error haha. Thanks for watching, hope the vids are helpful!
Excellent Video - Thank You! I have a similar problem with our '91 4Runner 3VZE. At present warm idle speed is only slightly higher than it should be but will keep an eye on this. Just getting to 200K on our motor, and hoping from many more miles. Yours is a Nice Clean Motor!
Tu video excelente. gracias el pude reparar mi 4runner 1992. y gracias a que te paso lo de el humo yo no me espante cuando me ocurrio a mi. Saludos desde Tijuana Mexico.
Que problema tenía tu camioneta yo soy de chile y tengo una 1993
@@nicolassanmartin1777 hola, en principio paso agua a las cabezas, por lo que la repare y pues en este proceso el sistema de escape estaba saturado de sedimentos del anticongelante por lo que la limpie pero mucho de este quedo en el sistema de escape y al ya arrancarlo cuando quedo reparado por primera vez saco todo por el mofle, mi camioneta no tiene catalizador por loq ue saco todo sin problema pero si hecho mucho humo y despues de unos minutos dejo de hacerlo y todo quedo bien.
@@SoyJonathanLevi Ami yo tengo un problema soy de chile y tengo una Toyota 4 runner 1993 motor 3vze tiene algún número de wasap donde podamos hablar mejor quisas me puedes dar consejos...
@@nicolassanmartin1777 tienes facebook. Sería mejor por messenger
@@SoyJonathanLevi dale que nombre tienes ?
Gr8 vid even 4 non mechanic's.
Thanks for the info. Tomorrow i gonna fix mine.
erratic engine idle is also caused by any leaks in the air intake tube. With all the elbows and connectors there are plenty of opportunities to get leaks on older engines.
Awesome video, great job
great content as always!
Great work..so what else does you Father's 4 runner need? You got just about everything covered. ☺
Aside from the body about to rust away from the frame not much lol
@@PracticalEnthusiast 😄😄
Very clean engine
Well blow me down! If that don't beat all. I have a 94 toy pickup 3.0 V6 4x4 bought it new, never had a problem, I recently noticed that the idle was slowly getting higher and figured that an old vacuum hose was the culprit, after checking for any vacuum leaks with no luck I turned to Google which brought me hear.
Great video, now to remove throttle body ! 😢😅😊
Thank you Sir that was just the info I needed:))
Nice video, VERY educational! Thanks.
Great video mate!
My cold start is around 1100-1000 rpm should I do the opposite and unscrew the threaded cover more? And then once warm idle goes really low and then dies, unless I gas it.
The more you unscrew it, the higher your cold start idle speed will be. Unless you live where it freezes I;d screw it in like he suggests.
@@supercharged2414 there is something wrong with mine, nothing worked at all. I believe it was my injectors.
@@Zapp760 Does the idle adjust screw change the idle speed?
Thank you sir, great video and explanation
Dude your a god thank you I bet that’s exactly what my problem is
I have tried this before I have 3 throttle valves to deal with. All three the collar absolutely will not come loose. I even made a tool from a socket and used an impact. I don't know how all these people find these ones with loose collars. I gave up.
I did everything to it , hammer, impact wrench, heat, nothing has worked, I'll keep in trying an let you know, greetings from Quetzaltenango 🇬🇹.
Well put together. Thank you. 🤙
93 Toyota what does the same thing and I cannot figure out adjusted about everything except thank you for showing awesome nice job!!!
Same thing with me too and same year 2wd 93
Thank you 👍
Hey thanks so much for this great video! So nice to see high quality 3vze content on here. Your video gave me the confidence to take apart my throttle body and replace the gasket. I tried opening up the IAC and spinning out the spring but I couldn’t get it to budge. I used needle nose pliers, 2 screw drivers and eventually a screw driver and a mallet but the thing wouldn’t move. I stopped not wanting to damage it. Wondering if you have any ideas on getting it to move, I’d like to screw it in further like you did. Vehicle is a 1990 pickup sr5 4x4 3vze with 99,500 miles. Thanks so much!
Check the comments on this video. Another viewer had the same issue and made a video on how they went about getting it to move.
Thank you. For others looking here is the tool you can make to free up the iac valve. ruclips.net/user/shortsvh7fkhvqq0c?feature=share
@@theblizzardof78blog did you get yours out I've made 3 sockets and let it soak and it won't move
@@coop_69 hey no i never did, never made a socket. I Ended up replacing the throttle body gasket and that helped. I also saw that my rubber air intake had cracks in it and replacing that helped as well.
I noticed your check engine light was on do you know why the light was on? 🤔
Thanks for the great video! Guess what I'm doing tomorrow???? LOL
nice paint job
I haven't been able to remove that threaded collar that you so easily removed with a pair of scissors. I gently placed the t/b in a vise after spraying collar with PB blaster and have use a putty knife and hammer tapping that collar and still haven't moved it. I've order some Kroil penetrating oil that all swear by and try again in couple of days after receiving. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Looks like we’re gonna see more 3.SLOW content huh? I love it
SO THAT’S WHERE THE IAC VALVE IS AT? I’ve been trying to figure out where the hell it is cuz I was watching a ChrisFix video about IAC valves. Definitely gonna keep this in mind when I do work on my 3VZE again
Not much more. I only have one more video planned on the 4Runner.
Whatever it is, I’m looking forward to seeing it
I saw you used a stubby scissor to remove the nut and a screwdriver. I’ve destroyed two IACs on my 22RE today trying to Adriatic them. Ray Nada used a socket he modified, I tried that among other things. Any advice from anyone would be appreciated. Toyota must have a SST for assembly?
I finally got it out , heat the pice with a heat gun and then use a wrench socket (home made tool) and will came out.
Thanks good stuff to know.
Good job
Like a fee others, my collar was also seized on two different throttle bodies! Slapped it back together without making any changes. Im chasing an issue of stumbling starts when the motor is warm.
Cold starts are crisp but hot starts it stumbles alive
Did you happen to find a fix for this? I’m having the same issue.
Legend
I have the opposite problem, mine has a low idle and won’t go up, no vacuum leaks exc…. Wonder if this could be the issue
I just did this to my 1990 4Runner. It was a pain to get that cap screw off and I had to make a tool out of a chisel. The valve hadn't been sealing in years, I presume. There was no witness marks, just a bit of carbon buildup. Still, I didn't expect much difference, but this car is much more civilized now that the idle speed is down. It no longer feels like I'm walking a dog pulling at his lead.
Thanks for the tutorial. Where can I get the gasket as mine tore into 5 pieces?
You can't get the gaskets anymore but you could make one out of gasket material, or just smear some RTV on there.
What do you mean by, 'set base ignition timing'?
Thank you so much for your posts! Very helpful. Have ever played with the TPS and adjustments?
Not on this 4Runner, but I have on a pickup with the 3VZE. I'd recommend adjusting it if the engine idle "hunts" when you press the brake at idle.
@@PracticalEnthusiast I just did the heads on my 94 4runner and replaced parts along the way...including the TPS. I pretty much set it in the middle. It doesn't "hunt" when I push on the brake. From what I gather, the TPS has to be set prior to timing it, and I am having no luck in finding a video in how to do so. No explanation in my Haynes either. Thank you for your quick reply and thank you for taking the time!
The idle air control valve gasket!!? Where do we get another????
I don't believe they are available, but you can use RTV to seal it up.
Hello.
At 5' 21'' you showed the housing with what it kooks a yellow washer at the bottom. My problem is after I made a tool from a Chrome-Vanadium hard steel 1/2' drive, 1/2 socket I could remove the collar and the other pieces. Then I cleaned everything, just when I was going to put them together I noticed a very small pin on the floor, I picked it up and noticed that the yellow portion at the bottom had an empty housing to allow the pivot pin to be located within. This small pin had an indentation around one end, it looked like this was for a retainer. I couldn't find the retainer if there was one. I guess this was to prevent going deeper into the housing.
Please help. I need your expertise.
Thank you.
I cant get the sealing collar unthreaded. I have made the tool outof a 17mm socket and it slips out. Broke first one made another. Heated it with heat gun while soaking with penetrating oil. I tried using a screwdriver and hammer and tried to get it to move tapping on one side of the slotted section. Second day and it won't budge. I never heated aluminum with a propane torch. Wonder if it would burn out the wax expansion part?
my 3vz is stumbling at cruising speed feels like a miss fine under execration and at idle any ideas?
Have you noticed a "howling" coming from the throttle body after closing it more? I noticed after adjusting it, it runs great just has an annoying howling/humming noise.
No, I never experienced that noise. Did you clean the valve at all? It's possible there's some sort of build up on it allowing air to get by and make that sort of noise. Don't know what else it could be if it's coming from the throttle body.
95 4runner, cold idle, runs at around 1,100 rpms, when at below half, idles in drive around 800-850 range, but idle speed is high, also have a knock sensor code, but maybe that wouldn't effect idle speed, without removing idle air control valve, how much adjustment should I give that screw on the throttle body?
What is the gasket called for the smaller cover is that closes the wax valve ! Trying to find a new gasket for that
Not available. Use silicone or make a gasket.
Why not replace the wax seal on the throttle body? Isn’t screwing it in just a temp fix? Does the wax part come out?
No part of this assembly is replaceable, aside from potentially the entire throttle body that Toyota may or may not still make (going to be a lot of $$$$ regardless). Screwing the valve in deeper is the correct fix here.
After cold start, how long does it take fast idle to drop to idle of 800- hundred RPM? Outside temperature about 75 f degrees on cold start. Thanks for the help.
My truck is 1992 Toyota.
It's dependent on engine temperature, but at 75 degrees I wouldn't think it would trigger a fast idle. Even in freezing temps it wouldn't be more than 5 minutes at idle. If diving, it would be much faster.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the information.The engine cold start,, summer are winter will consistently run fast idle for 5 minutes and then go to idle 800 RPM. Perhaps the throttle body is the culprit.
@@patalexander1965 I'd say it's definitely in the throttle body. However the issue is likely different than shown in this video since yours does eventually drop to 800 RPM. I'd check that coolant is properly circulating though the throttle body. Could be a blockage or air in the system.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thank you for this information. Will check soon.
I for the life of me cannot get the threaded collar off, any tips, specific tools?
Check the comments. A few have also had difficulty removing the threaded collar and one commenter made a video of a tool he made to remove it.
Moms Yota has an issue with the egr. And I see that there is an issue with a vacuum hook up labeled 'R' on the throttle body. Is it supposed to be sealed? Because it holds a vacuum and it's impossible to push any air through it.
The AC works better with 1000 rpm idle and oil pressure. I've Deleted the EGR.Got rid of all the unused vacuum lines. You want believe it but I got my 4 runner to 95mph on the freeway. Because its no longer choked down. IT CAN BREATH.
I bought a used throttle body and it has the same problem. I don't think either wax puck assemblies are working. I'm thinking about filling the compartment with epoxy but not sure if it will start well without a high idle speed. I do live in Florida so I don't have extreme cold to deal with. I looked and looked for another GOOD used one but the only other one I found for over $200 looks like a piece of trash.
What would cause an rough or erratic idle that stalls this vehicle?
Can you list the part number from Toyota for this piece. I could not find it. My 94 is running great but this would be the last link in the puzzle.
Unfortunately Toyota doesn't sell the valve separately from the throttle body. You would have to buy the entire assembly.
Is there a difference in fixing the throttle body with a surging idle?
The surging idle is likely a mis-adjusted throttle position sensor. I'd start there.
Did this today but that coolant hose in the back was a hugeeee pain. Took 2 hours just to get the one hose off
I noticed you have 22R style connectors and a 22R style ignition coil and igniter. Did you swap it and why?
I never swapped it, so I'm not sure what's up there. Sure it wasn't used on early 3VZEs as well? This one is a first year (1988).
Could you read my reply to your question about what I meant the advanced diog test.
I am having a rough idle
Any idea?
Amazing where are you located. Texas ?
Thanks! Located in Kansas City.
Would this work for low idle too? My idle adjust screw doesn’t seem to do anything in when turned in either direction. My warm idle seems about 700rpm
This would only help if you're experiencing low idle during a cold start. Interesting that the idle adjustment screw doesn't have any affect at raising the idle speed. I would check the simple stuff first, like the air filter, to make sure it isn't clogged. Then I would check for vacuum leaks because those can sometimes cause a rough and lower idle.
Thanks man! Mine has a high idle but also the idle surges sometimes. You think this is the issue? I took the TB off and coolant goes through it nicely so I'm at a loss.
Does it surge only when the brake is depressed? If so, it is likely your throttle position sensor is out of adjustment.
My 88’ 4Runner surges at random too. Took throttle body off and cleaned it. Ran the codes for the check engine light and it shows “TPS” so gonna change that next. It’ll surge when I push the brake it but some times does it even with the brake not engaged, still could be tps? Or anything else?
Surprisingly my 3vze idles low as hell, too low as a matter of fact it’s always around 500-600 what do you think the problem is? It also almost stalls when down shifting (it’s a manual) and coming to a stop
Hi I have a 88 4Runner that has the same problem but it's been resting for a few due to a lack of $$ it's time to get back on the road first thing in fast forward it's hard to know what you are doing and you don't explain as much as I need but a fantastic job!!
.? Why did you not send out the block to do a complete redo ? Cost ? As you said that the rings were passing air ?
I wish I could send you my 4Runner and. Lot of cash to fix it for me.
A new fan
JoP
I didn't rebuild the engine for a few practical reasons. 1) I didn't have the time. Removing an engine, disassembling it, videoing the process, editing that video, getting parts, waiting on the machine shop, reassembly, reinstallation, takes a mountain of time. 2) I didn't have the space. Removing an engine means you need to have space for the engine crane, an engine, a transmission, etc. all while being in the middle of a cold, snowy winter when other cars can better use the garage space (i.e. my wife's car and my Z) 3) Cost is relatively minimal, so it's definitely not a large contributing factor to the decision 4) The engine, quite honestly, didn't NEED the bottom end rebuilt. It worked great until the head gasket blew, which is a independent issue from the bottom end.
When you're dealing with older cars, you can easily make a case for rebuilding/replacing everything that looks mildly worn. This is why you see so many vehicle projects become never finished, forgotten, and ultimately sold for scrap. You have to have your practical limits. This is why the engine was not rebuilt, and this is why the truck runs and drives great right now, not months or years from now.
Could this be causing excessive fuel consumption
Yes
could also be a worn butterfly in the throttlebody
I got an issue on mine, it always goes to a high idle but if I rev it a bit it’ll drop to my adjusted idle. I’ve got it adjusted to 800rpm and high idle is around 1200 till I give the throttle a blip then it’ll idle back to 800. Think this could be my issue?
I haven't heard that one before. Hmm. I suppose it could be this, but I'd first check to make sure the butterfly valve or the throttle cable isn't binding somewhere.
I can see 3 screw adjustments round the throttle body. (Has anybody messed with any of these?
None of mine are touching the throttle cable tab. Idles perfect cold then when it's warmed up the idle goes low it wants to turn off.
Thanks for the video.
Do you need to bleed the coolant system after disconnecting those coolant lines?
You shouldn't need to. A very small amount of coolant escapes the system (be sure to plug the hoses with bolts or something similar!) and the system will self bleed itself after a few full heat cycles.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Awesome thank you! I need to take apart my throttle body on my E30 which also has coolant lines running through it. But you know that because I'm literally going to be following the advice of your E30 videos as I deep clean my TB. Thank you for these awesome videos!
Could you just keep it 100% sealed and deal with a longer warm up time?
You could!
Where did you get the replacement gasket?
A replacement gasket is not available, but you could use RTV instead and it would work just as well.
I have a question regarding the IAC. I have a 2003 Toyota RAV4 that sputters when I first start it up and the outside temperature is below roughly -25C (-13F). Would an IAC that sticks shut cause the idle to drop far enough for it to begin sputtering (like it's running too rich)? I hope you read and respond to this, it would be greatly appreciated :)
Yep, an IAC could definitely cause that. Or, the engine temperature sensor could be at fault. This is the sensor that tells the ECU the engine temp, not the one that controls the temperature gauge.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks for the reply! I've already swapped out the coolant temperature sensor as that was my initial suspicion. Guess I'll have a look at the IAC next.
Hey i have a question regarding IAC valve - does it have to be opened a little when the engine is already warmed up or should be completely closed? Do You know at what temperature should it be closed? thanks:)
It should be completely closed when the engine is warm, but I couldn't tell you what temperature that is.