Those screws are JIS, not Phillips, and that’s why they are dangerously prone to rounding out. Use a hammer on a Phillips screw driver or an impact driver (one that you actually whack with a hammer as you turn)
I bought a JIS screwdriver a few months ago and it really is amazing how much easier it makes those little screws. They're still tight af but it does help.
I did that with my 96 tacoma and your right the screws for the idle air control was a pain and 2 out of 4 got stripped I even had to extract one of them so as I finally got them all out I took the screws to ace hardware match it with some Allan screws and it worked out perfectly fine the next time it won't be hard at all.
My problem is that it starts high and eventually goes down after the engine is at operating temp. This can take 5 minutes and yes I did remove the IAC and cleaned it
I had the same issue, cleaned the throttle body and throttle valve plate itself with throttle plate cleaner and a shop towel. It fixed the issue and now only takes a minute to go down to idle rpm.
Just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, power steering pump and lines and some other odds and ends on my 97 runner and when I fired it up i was idling at like 1800RPM. After triple checking my timing marks were all still aligned (they are) I found this video and after blasting a bunch of gunk out of my throttle body and idle air controller now it purrs along at 800RPM again. Thanks for the video this saved me some serious headache! -Cheers
@@DirtGarage Unfortunately, after cleaning my throttle body and IAC valve is when i got the hight idle 2000 rpm. Been driving 98 4 runner for a week now and nothing is changing. Tried disconnecting the battery, but nothing changed. Can I pull the ECM fuse? ECU fuse or something to reset the IAC?
When I cleaned my IAC valve, afterward is when I had the 2000 rpm idle on startup (park) and neutral. After warmup it goes down to 1500 in park and neutral, and 1000 rpm in drive. What can I do? Been driving it a week and nothing is changing? Is there a way to pull the ECU fuse or something ECM fuse? To reset it? It obvious is retaining the old information when the valve was dirty and sticking, and now that it's free, moves easily, it's open to far and getting too much air.
@@aftabqureshi981 I tried that several times and doesn't change anything with my 1998 4Runner. I'm still driving it 2 months later with the same high idle readings. I'm thinking this truck probably needs it's idle to be reset with a computer or something? That's probably the only way? Because I looked at everything else and there's nothing leaking.
@@2028end Try with your hand and [engine running] to turn your throttle body assembly to closed position if the RPM go down, your throttle body butterfly is wear out, add a extra spring so the butterfly stay close tight it should fix the problem without spend too much money.
Did you see the video about the small washer fixing play in the throttle assembly? Try pulling your throttle assembly towards you while idling, if your idle drops that's the fix you need. Hope you have already fixed it by now though since your comment was 9 months ago.
Soo, I went and bought a new IAC from Toyota. Paid a LOT of money and .. whaddya know. It fixed the issue. Best off spending the money on OEM stuff. Buy once, cry once.
Mine acts even weirder. Runs at 1000RPM on a cold start, and it continues to climb as the engine warms up until it settles somewhere between 1500 and 2000RPM (while in park). After a hot restart if its been sitting parked for less than an hour and a half, it idles really low. Like under 500. Putting it in gear and turning the AC on just invites stalling if I don't give it some gas first...
What about motor rattling, is anything related with the ICV? Or any posible misfiring? It just started Last night not sure if for the cold weather, but it happen while driving started to rattle and shaking if you reach the 45mph is when you can feel it
So mine had the 0505 code and the idle was at 1800 hot I looked under the manifold and the sensor is unplugged so I though easy fix plugged it and turn the truck on and it went up to 2k rpm’s idle any idea what that could be the sensor looks new what would cause the sensor being plugged cause the engine to idle even higher then unplugged
Surprisingly most (not hand tool) people don’t understand the force pressed down should be equal or more than the turning force. Otherwise strippage GG on not stripping those small screws 🤙
I came super close to stripping these probably 5 years back when my truck had a 3.4 in it. That's why I ended up putting the throttle body on the ground to get my body weight on the screw driver when turning. Not gonna play those games!
98 4Runner 3.4 Will crank with Throttle position sensor unplugged (with a little help from gas pedal) but has a hard time cranking with sensor plugged in. Change the TPS? Very rough idle with this sensor plugged in or not
I did this and cleaned the whole intake manifold now running nearly 2000 rpms it was find tell I decided to clean my throttle body and intake it really sucks
@@zombieslothcrapped I think over time when the carbon builds up in the throttle body and IAC the RPM can also drop and mechanics adjust the idle screw back up to 800 RPM. Then when someone cleans the throttle body and IAC the RPM go back up and you have to adjust the idle screw back down to around 800 RPM.
@@stellamatutina3573 Does the 1998 4runner have an idle screw? Because this is what I got now too ... after cleaning throttle body and IAC it's now 1500 to 2000 rpm in park or neutral. Ugghh I didn't know there was an idle screw?
@2028end Have a look just above to the right side of the accelerator adjustment cable with the two nuts, should be a flat screw in the throttle body, try turning it half turn to the left or until you get it at the right RPM while the car engine is running, warm the engine up first, keep it in the park position and bring the idle down to wear it should sit in park and hopefully when you put it into drive the RPM should come down 👍
Love watching this considering I already spent hundreds of dollars to figure out my high idle issue with no success yet LOL being a self mechanic is a hobby for rich ppl.
You need to clean the butterfly valve on the throttle body itself as well. Clean both of those, put some seafoam in the tank and oil, run it for a few miles then do an oil change. That should just about clean everything and it’s relatively cheap and easy
Sea-foam. Pour sea foam in the iacv tube then turn on. Had to resort to this cheap fix when I couldn't get the JIS screws. Cleared my code! Idles smooth as.. Those screws suck.
It was the ADD system, I completely defeated the ADD now. So pretty much fulltime hubs locked in front end. Gonna add slight drag to driveline and slightly decrease fuel economy I'm sure. But totally worth it for reliable 4x4 system. Simper the better in my books.
could be a worn throttle body butterfly, especially if you clean the old deposits off with a spray, oddly enough they help keep the idle tame, all from personal experience
@Z-Ack i dont have a kickdown because its not a automatic. Yours may look different if its the weird drive by wire version with electric motor in throttle body
@@toyotadude6771 Shoot, my 98 4runner is idling at 2000 when cold, then comes down to 1500 when warmed up, after I cleaned the IAC valve! Is there an idle set screw on the 98 4runner?
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Those screws are JIS, not Phillips, and that’s why they are dangerously prone to rounding out. Use a hammer on a Phillips screw driver or an impact driver (one that you actually whack with a hammer as you turn)
My buddy showed me the hammer trick years ago. Messing with old dirt bikes it was a life saver.
I bought a JIS screwdriver a few months ago and it really is amazing how much easier it makes those little screws. They're still tight af but it does help.
I did that with my 96 tacoma and your right the screws for the idle air control was a pain and 2 out of 4 got stripped I even had to extract one of them so as I finally got them all out I took the screws to ace hardware match it with some Allan screws and it worked out perfectly fine the next time it won't be hard at all.
My problem is that it starts high and eventually goes down after the engine is at operating temp. This can take 5 minutes and yes I did remove the IAC and cleaned it
I had the same issue, cleaned the throttle body and throttle valve plate itself with throttle plate cleaner and a shop towel. It fixed the issue and now only takes a minute to go down to idle rpm.
Just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, power steering pump and lines and some other odds and ends on my 97 runner and when I fired it up i was idling at like 1800RPM. After triple checking my timing marks were all still aligned (they are) I found this video and after blasting a bunch of gunk out of my throttle body and idle air controller now it purrs along at 800RPM again. Thanks for the video this saved me some serious headache! -Cheers
Glad I could help!
@@DirtGarage Unfortunately, after cleaning my throttle body and IAC valve is when i got the hight idle 2000 rpm. Been driving 98 4 runner for a week now and nothing is changing. Tried disconnecting the battery, but nothing changed. Can I pull the ECM fuse? ECU fuse or something to reset the IAC?
When I cleaned my IAC valve, afterward is when I had the 2000 rpm idle on startup (park) and neutral. After warmup it goes down to 1500 in park and neutral, and 1000 rpm in drive. What can I do? Been driving it a week and nothing is changing? Is there a way to pull the ECU fuse or something ECM fuse? To reset it? It obvious is retaining the old information when the valve was dirty and sticking, and now that it's free, moves easily, it's open to far and getting too much air.
Disconnect battery for at least 15 minutes then reconnect
@@aftabqureshi981 I tried that several times and doesn't change anything with my 1998 4Runner. I'm still driving it 2 months later with the same high idle readings. I'm thinking this truck probably needs it's idle to be reset with a computer or something? That's probably the only way? Because I looked at everything else and there's nothing leaking.
@@2028end Try with your hand and [engine running] to turn your throttle body assembly to closed position if the RPM go down, your
throttle body butterfly is wear out, add a extra spring so the butterfly stay close tight it should fix the problem without spend too much money.
Check for vacuum leak
Could you put one in a sonic cleaner or does it have fine gaskets that could be damaged?
Hi, and thanks from.the caribbean, could it also fix when the rpm is like stall and doesn't go past 2000 rpm, thanks again !
And what do you do if that doesn’t work?? I replaced mine and idle is still high…
Did you see the video about the small washer fixing play in the throttle assembly? Try pulling your throttle assembly towards you while idling, if your idle drops that's the fix you need. Hope you have already fixed it by now though since your comment was 9 months ago.
Soo, I went and bought a new IAC from Toyota. Paid a LOT of money and .. whaddya know. It fixed the issue. Best off spending the money on OEM stuff. Buy once, cry once.
Let me just say bud the way you opened was great also great vid all around👍
Glad you enjoyed
After replacing the IAC mine idles at 1100
Dude you gotta serious mullet. Keep it growing and the good videos coming.
just did that same job on my 01 tacoma and 3 out of the 4 crew striped doing it so i replace them with 8MM bolt problem solve for the next clean up !
Was it intermittent high idle and did you throw a code for it at all??
@@Sancheese117 No code. And not intermittent
Mine acts even weirder. Runs at 1000RPM on a cold start, and it continues to climb as the engine warms up until it settles somewhere between 1500 and 2000RPM (while in park). After a hot restart if its been sitting parked for less than an hour and a half, it idles really low. Like under 500. Putting it in gear and turning the AC on just invites stalling if I don't give it some gas first...
I'm having this same issue, have you figured it out at all?
My 2001 Toyota Tacoma, is idling high in park and neutral. And when driving and take my foot off of the gas the speedometer needle going up.
Fantastic, thank you very much for your time and kindness to explained how to fix this. I do appreciate it. Cheers from Costa Rica, ALberto
Excellent video man I’m about to tackle this on my T100
It wasn’t the slop in the throttle shaft because mine has none so this is the video I needed 👏
What about low ldle issues, should l do the same thing,by away l love this video demonstration 2 thumbs up
Hi, did it turn out to be the IAC..?
I replaced the idle valve and it got really worse any idea what should I do next? #dirtgarage
You should get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner. You can pick them up cheap at harbor freight or in Canada princess auto. Or off slamazon dirt cheap
Its usually just need to recalibrate the throttle body ,set it in learn mode to relearn the idle
How do you do that. I replaced mine on my 96 tacoma and it suddenly starts acting like it wants to stall.
What about motor rattling, is anything related with the ICV? Or any posible misfiring? It just started Last night not sure if for the cold weather, but it happen while driving started to rattle and shaking if you reach the 45mph is when you can feel it
My iddle goes down if I take off the vacumm line to the iac replaced iac and throttle body and still have the same issue any idea
So mine had the 0505 code and the idle was at 1800 hot I looked under the manifold and the sensor is unplugged so I though easy fix plugged it and turn the truck on and it went up to 2k rpm’s idle any idea what that could be the sensor looks new what would cause the sensor being plugged cause the engine to idle even higher then unplugged
Surprisingly most (not hand tool) people don’t understand the force pressed down should be equal or more than the turning force.
Otherwise strippage
GG on not stripping those small screws 🤙
I came super close to stripping these probably 5 years back when my truck had a 3.4 in it. That's why I ended up putting the throttle body on the ground to get my body weight on the screw driver when turning. Not gonna play those games!
98 4Runner 3.4
Will crank with Throttle position sensor unplugged (with a little help from gas pedal) but has a hard time cranking with sensor plugged in. Change the TPS? Very rough idle with this sensor plugged in or not
Clean your maf, tps, and iac. Google is there is a tps relearn procedure for 5vz engine. There probably is. Then check back.
I did this and cleaned the whole intake manifold now running nearly 2000 rpms it was find tell I decided to clean my throttle body and intake it really sucks
Did you ever figure out what caused it? I'm having the exact same issue. Idle was fine before cleaning and now I'm between 1500-2000.
@@zombieslothcrapped kinda lol I replaced the toyota 3.4 idle air control valve and noticed before I fixed it the more I drove it the better it got
@@zombieslothcrapped I think over time when the carbon builds up in the throttle body and IAC the RPM can also drop and mechanics adjust the idle screw back up to 800 RPM. Then when someone cleans the throttle body and IAC the RPM go back up and you have to adjust the idle screw back down to around 800 RPM.
@@stellamatutina3573 Does the 1998 4runner have an idle screw? Because this is what I got now too ... after cleaning throttle body and IAC it's now 1500 to 2000 rpm in park or neutral. Ugghh I didn't know there was an idle screw?
@2028end Have a look just above to the right side of the accelerator adjustment cable with the two nuts, should be a flat screw in the throttle body, try turning it half turn to the left or until you get it at the right RPM while the car engine is running, warm the engine up first, keep it in the park position and bring the idle down to wear it should sit in park and hopefully when you put it into drive the RPM should come down 👍
Mines only idling high when I first turn it on and it's cold out, once it warms up it idles normal, is this the same cause of the problem?
Nah, that is normal. I would not worry about that
Love watching this considering I already spent hundreds of dollars to figure out my high idle issue with no success yet LOL being a self mechanic is a hobby for rich ppl.
I have the same problem So I bought a new one but the problem does not go away .... Please help!!!
Me too have same issue after changing it
Me too i changed it and still same idling at 1200 rpms at park and neutral and in gear 850 -900rppms
You need to clean the butterfly valve on the throttle body itself as well. Clean both of those, put some seafoam in the tank and oil, run it for a few miles then do an oil change. That should just about clean everything and it’s relatively cheap and easy
Sea-foam.
Pour sea foam in the iacv tube then turn on.
Had to resort to this cheap fix when I couldn't get the JIS screws.
Cleared my code! Idles smooth as..
Those screws suck.
What’s the normal idle when cold start?
Mine is over a grand at cold but eventually idles around 600 when warm
We are currently 1200ish cold, and comes down to 700-800 warm
You can put manual hubs on the 3rd gen. Takes some press work and patience, but it can be done
Another thing fixed! Next week the 4wd issue? Curious what's wrong with that. Keep up the great work!
It was the ADD system, I completely defeated the ADD now. So pretty much fulltime hubs locked in front end. Gonna add slight drag to driveline and slightly decrease fuel economy I'm sure. But totally worth it for reliable 4x4 system. Simper the better in my books.
Still didn’t fix the problem anyone else have an idea besides throttle position sensor or clutch spring I can’t figure it out
Where can I find the seal for the air control valve? I can’t seem to find it anywhere
I bought from dealership
Thank you!
great video, gotta do mine this week
Any chance you have a slower video of taking all this apart? Hard for my ADHD brain to keep up with that speed
could be a worn throttle body butterfly, especially if you clean the old deposits off with a spray, oddly enough they help keep the idle tame, all from personal experience
Thanks very much. My vehicle 🚜 was in a mess and got 800 also 🎉😊😊😊😊😊 from Zambia . Enjoy my surf. Low consumption.
Aint got one of those.. no kickdown cable either..
@Z-Ack i dont have a kickdown because its not a automatic. Yours may look different if its the weird drive by wire version with electric motor in throttle body
Very well done...
Really great video thanks
Love you Bro...Best of luck.
This isnprobly why mine idles weird on cold start I should check
Oh sheet !!!! It’s Sunday ?!?
Where did the weekend go ?
We clearly stick to our schedule very strictly here.
I cleaned my iac and know it's too low rpm at cold Start haha any suggestion ?
Vacuum leak from disassembling things?
@@megh9806 chekked, seems fine, low rpm at cold Start supossed to be for a vacuum leak?
Depends where the leak is. Could be low or high idle. Make sure all your hoses are on, not cracked and the throttle body bolts are all snug.
Try disconnecting the battery for a bit then hook it back up and turn the key to on for a few seconds should zero itself (hopefully)
Where’s the video on the lights????
What lights?
Thanks You From Panamá 🇵🇦 City Thanks For help me
Great video great help thank you
Love watching this as I'm mad dash restoring a 01 4 runner 😂
Is 1500 rpm high idle
Yes
Hell yeah thats high, even when its cold
@@toyotadude6771 Shoot, my 98 4runner is idling at 2000 when cold, then comes down to 1500 when warmed up, after I cleaned the IAC valve! Is there an idle set screw on the 98 4runner?
You have the lid from a brake cleaner can on your dashpot? lol
Over half a million kms on that odometer...
JIS screw driver
🥇
My '63 VW was a lot easier to work on---damned computers !!!
Cool video buddy