I can relate. This thing has a lot of connectors all over the place. I once did forget to connect one of the big ones going to the transport pcb. Screwed the top back on, put it into the rack and tested it. Did'nt work (suprise!). Lesson learned: Test everything before reassembling. Glad I did not pay shipping cost for someone else to fix it.
I've had so many faults on my Tascam DA30 mk1...mode switch, belts, head worn out, the glue on the friction plates beneath the hubs letting go so the tape stopped intermittently when rewinding or winding a tape...glad to have sold it for a good price after repairs before another fault reared it's head.
Mine reads high. Measuring a 5 volt regulator and the meter measures 6.2v that's a problem. Of course by the time the low bat light cones on that same 5v is now showing 8.
Do you remember the joke "it would be a fluke if it's accurate"? No truer words when the battery gets weak. Now I don't know whether it's got something to do with the new batteries that we see today because the older batteries from when the meter was new they tended to run for a couple hundred hours of use I think they said the batteries good for about 200 hours or so and then all of a sudden the low battery indicator would come on and I had to change the battery the newer batteries that were seen today and I don't know What's different with the newer ones but they tend to start to discharge much quicker from a full charge and the voltage drop is much more gradual so the meter accuracy starts to drift I found and in the couple weeks prior to the low battery indicator coming on I get some really interesting voltage readings that can lead you down the wrong path. I've never had this with the older cell and old energizers of 10 or 15 years ago but the batteries that were seeing today, Well you know half the time they're leaking by the time you take them out of the package but the new ones as they say they just don't seem to Be up to the task and I don't know whether it's just a voltage just starting to fall quicker on the newer cells than the older ones I think that's probably what it is if you open up a new 9 V battery you'll see it's a bunch of little flat cells stuffed together where is the older ones actually used to have 6 quadruple a celse wired and series inside the case. So I think the battery quality probably plays a big role in how accurate the meter is if the voltage starts to drop the accuracy of the meter also is affected. The older 9 V batteries just didn't drop their voltage as quick they kept putting out the full voltage until the cell was on its last legs and then the voltage dropped very quickly whereas the newer ones I think the voltage is probably starting to drop much quicker and it gets into that accuracy problem before it triggers the low battery indicator on the meter.
hi i have pick up gear for silly low price on the used market place used gear is a lotto what you get you don't get them deals any more i have picked up ADATS recorders this year because he placed it not right on ebay i picked up 2 betacam players some week ago with small things that are bad they are easy to carry around the house you know the cam play back betacam ones not sp play back
18:03 - Fluorescent lights got actually barely any mercury in them, just a tiny tiny drop of it. Mercury is just extremely efficient in creating UV light. I dare to say that the risk of one tube poisoning you with mercury is relatively low. This layer of phosphor powder on the inside may pose a much higher health risk, as far as my understanding goes. Of yourse, everyone's welcome to correct me. With LED's we're back where we were at with incandescent lights regarding surface intensity and thus the size of the surface that's emitting light. In both cases all that light is emitted from a very tiny high intensity surface. Fluoros have been on a much softer side, surface intensity is nowhere near around that of incands and LEDs, but they got a huge surface compared. I'm stating the obvious here of course.
When I was 15 I had a summer job with a company that did fluorescent relamping of commercial buildings. I was friends with the business owners son so we got the fun job of loading the truck, then handing the electrician the new lamps up the ladder and packing the old lamps into 2 piles. One with lamps that still worked and another with dead lamps. Basically if they weren't all black at the end they were recovered and business owner (my friends dad) would give them away to friends. I still have about half a case of 40 watt t12 full spectrum. I use about 18 around the house. The dead and near dead bulbs we smashed in the dumpster in the parking lot. This was 1978. Nobody cared about mercury back then and I guarantee the lamps had much more mercury in them then.
@@12voltvids - I actually use right now one of these two roadside find fluoros, that I found in one of the prior years in a pile of broken ones, I guess they were just dumped out carelessly just like that. Two survived it, brought them home, one unexpectedly EOL'd since. The other one keeps trucking.
I always wanted a dat machine. Just never could afford it, Even used they get ridiculous money for them, I thought about getting a non working one and trying to fix it but they seem like they are a mechanical mess sometimes.
@@ToneHobartit was on ebay for about 2 months. Listed it 4 times and paid the listing fees and nothing. Then it went on Craigslist and Facebook and sat there for 3 months. Finally an offer of 50 bucks came in and I took it. I paid 600 for it when it was new.
DAT is digital tape. It can record in multiple bit rates. 44.1 16 bit same as cd. 48k 16 bit better than cd, 32k 12 bit fm radio quality. There was also 96k 24bit on the hi bit rate DAT that some machines offered. It was one of the highest quality tape formats developed. Replaced completely by tape less systems. The problem is tape will eventually wear out. Memory chips however can also fail as can hard drives. Tape now is dead except for collectors.
I know you know what you're doing, however I wouldn't advise putting screws in a live unit. I was putting screws in a HI-FI VCR I was fixing some 30 years ago, and the screw fell off the screwdriver down in to the guts of the main PCB while live and shorted something. There was no HI-FI audio output after that...
Hey Dave, just curious about DAT is there any difference in sound quality between CD and DAT? If there is any difference I cannot tell by watching on my phone and I'm fairly certain with RUclips comprehension it would not be noticeable anyway. I don't have a DAT machine to do any comparison tests, so it's nothing more than a curiosity for me. I wonder the same about DCC too. I do know these formats never became mainstream everywhere you could carry music on cassette tape, CD reached that level but at least here DAT and DCC didn't. Even DBX noise reduction didn't make it like 1st generation Dolby. Dolby C or Dolby S came too late to the Dolby family of noise reduction to become replacements. As I understand DBX was the closest to Dolby A used in the studios back in the early days. Perhaps I didn't read accurate information about all that, who knows for sure anyway as always thanks for taking the time to read my inquiry.
@@darinb.3273 Theoretically no at the 16-44.1 setting you can do a direct digital transfer between a CD player and a professional DAT machine. However DAT can record at 16-48 which was the default setting for home DAT machines to block digital transfer from CD to DAT. Of course you could always transfer using the analog circuitry with quality loss based on the quality of the analog outputs of the CD player and the analog inputs of the DAT recorder. When I bought my DAT machines (Tascam DA30's and DA40's) and even more so with my professional HHB CDR recorders you were often required to sign legal documentation that you would not direct copy manufactured CD's to CDR for commercial use.
@@darinb.3273 CD and DAT are comparatively the same sound quality. There's really no difference, except DAT using moving tape making seeking between tracks a little slower.
I can relate. This thing has a lot of connectors all over the place. I once did forget to connect one of the big ones going to the transport pcb. Screwed the top back on, put it into the rack and tested it. Did'nt work (suprise!). Lesson learned: Test everything before reassembling. Glad I did not pay shipping cost for someone else to fix it.
Oe eibbom cables in camcorders, had once rhat one wasnt alll the way in.
Schematics? I don’t need no stinking schematics!!!! 😂😂😂
I've had so many faults on my Tascam DA30 mk1...mode switch, belts, head worn out, the glue on the friction plates beneath the hubs letting go so the tape stopped intermittently when rewinding or winding a tape...glad to have sold it for a good price after repairs before another fault reared it's head.
My da30 mk1 is down again.
Thanks Dave.
When You were banging on the thing I noticed the Audio & Video are out of Sync.
Not our of sync here. Must by RUclips processing.
even the mk1 had regulator problems ,i had also problem no audio output on my da 30 couple years ago
I have one that is noisy that I will have to tackle some day.
Good luck sir 🎉
Luck? No I don't need luck, I know exactly what I am doing. Remember I did this for a living 40 years ago
I have the Fluke 12 and never had an issue with accuracy when the low battery indicator turns on. You're a hobbyist. How accurate do you want to be!
Mine reads high. Measuring a 5 volt regulator and the meter measures 6.2v that's a problem. Of course by the time the low bat light cones on that same 5v is now showing 8.
@12voltvids Mine reads about .5 volt low or high. No big deal. I do not do electronics as a profession. I do like your new meter. I may buy one.
Do you remember the joke "it would be a fluke if it's accurate"?
No truer words when the battery gets weak. Now I don't know whether it's got something to do with the new batteries that we see today because the older batteries from when the meter was new they tended to run for a couple hundred hours of use I think they said the batteries good for about 200 hours or so and then all of a sudden the low battery indicator would come on and I had to change the battery the newer batteries that were seen today and I don't know What's different with the newer ones but they tend to start to discharge much quicker from a full charge and the voltage drop is much more gradual so the meter accuracy starts to drift I found and in the couple weeks prior to the low battery indicator coming on I get some really interesting voltage readings that can lead you down the wrong path. I've never had this with the older cell and old energizers of 10 or 15 years ago but the batteries that were seeing today, Well you know half the time they're leaking by the time you take them out of the package but the new ones as they say they just don't seem to Be up to the task and I don't know whether it's just a voltage just starting to fall quicker on the newer cells than the older ones I think that's probably what it is if you open up a new 9 V battery you'll see it's a bunch of little flat cells stuffed together where is the older ones actually used to have 6 quadruple a celse wired and series inside the case. So I think the battery quality probably plays a big role in how accurate the meter is if the voltage starts to drop the accuracy of the meter also is affected. The older 9 V batteries just didn't drop their voltage as quick they kept putting out the full voltage until the cell was on its last legs and then the voltage dropped very quickly whereas the newer ones I think the voltage is probably starting to drop much quicker and it gets into that accuracy problem before it triggers the low battery indicator on the meter.
incandescent lights were the best imo. Hate leds, give me migraines and eye strain after a while, especially if they are excessively bright.
I hear you there.
Blue LED headlights are the absolute worst!!
Yip.
That wire looks like would break when the drawer was open and closed often.
Not an issue.
hi i have pick up gear for silly low price on the used market place used gear is a lotto what you get you don't get them deals any more i have picked up
ADATS recorders this year because he placed it not right on ebay
i picked up 2 betacam players some week ago with small things that are bad they are easy to carry around the house you know the cam play back betacam ones
not sp play back
18:03 - Fluorescent lights got actually barely any mercury in them, just a tiny tiny drop of it. Mercury is just extremely efficient in creating UV light. I dare to say that the risk of one tube poisoning you with mercury is relatively low. This layer of phosphor powder on the inside may pose a much higher health risk, as far as my understanding goes. Of yourse, everyone's welcome to correct me.
With LED's we're back where we were at with incandescent lights regarding surface intensity and thus the size of the surface that's emitting light. In both cases all that light is emitted from a very tiny high intensity surface. Fluoros have been on a much softer side, surface intensity is nowhere near around that of incands and LEDs, but they got a huge surface compared.
I'm stating the obvious here of course.
When I was 15 I had a summer job with a company that did fluorescent relamping of commercial buildings. I was friends with the business owners son so we got the fun job of loading the truck, then handing the electrician the new lamps up the ladder and packing the old lamps into 2 piles. One with lamps that still worked and another with dead lamps. Basically if they weren't all black at the end they were recovered and business owner (my friends dad) would give them away to friends. I still have about half a case of 40 watt t12 full spectrum. I use about 18 around the house. The dead and near dead bulbs we smashed in the dumpster in the parking lot. This was 1978. Nobody cared about mercury back then and I guarantee the lamps had much more mercury in them then.
@@12voltvids - I actually use right now one of these two roadside find fluoros, that I found in one of the prior years in a pile of broken ones, I guess they were just dumped out carelessly just like that. Two survived it, brought them home, one unexpectedly EOL'd since. The other one keeps trucking.
E deck. Love to get one
I have a da30 I need to fix.
I always wanted a dat machine. Just never could afford it, Even used they get ridiculous money for them, I thought about getting a non working one and trying to fix it but they seem like they are a mechanical mess sometimes.
Where were you when I was trying to sell mine. Got 50 bucks for it.
@@12voltvids Wish I knew that, I would have taken it.
@@ToneHobartit was on ebay for about 2 months. Listed it 4 times and paid the listing fees and nothing. Then it went on Craigslist and Facebook and sat there for 3 months. Finally an offer of 50 bucks came in and I took it. I paid 600 for it when it was new.
How long do heads last on the dat machines?
Rated 2000 hours. Some last longer some not. Same as vcr.
are dats better than solid state recorders?
DAT is digital tape. It can record in multiple bit rates. 44.1 16 bit same as cd. 48k 16 bit better than cd, 32k 12 bit fm radio quality. There was also 96k 24bit on the hi bit rate DAT that some machines offered. It was one of the highest quality tape formats developed. Replaced completely by tape less systems.
The problem is tape will eventually wear out. Memory chips however can also fail as can hard drives. Tape now is dead except for collectors.
I know you know what you're doing, however I wouldn't advise putting screws in a live unit. I was putting screws in a HI-FI VCR I was fixing some 30 years ago, and the screw fell off the screwdriver down in to the guts of the main PCB while live and shorted something. There was no HI-FI audio output after that...
I wasn't near any power.
Hey Dave, just curious about DAT is there any difference in sound quality between CD and DAT? If there is any difference I cannot tell by watching on my phone and I'm fairly certain with RUclips comprehension it would not be noticeable anyway. I don't have a DAT machine to do any comparison tests, so it's nothing more than a curiosity for me. I wonder the same about DCC too. I do know these formats never became mainstream everywhere you could carry music on cassette tape, CD reached that level but at least here DAT and DCC didn't. Even DBX noise reduction didn't make it like 1st generation Dolby. Dolby C or Dolby S came too late to the Dolby family of noise reduction to become replacements.
As I understand DBX was the closest to Dolby A used in the studios back in the early days. Perhaps I didn't read accurate information about all that, who knows for sure anyway as always thanks for taking the time to read my inquiry.
@@darinb.3273 Theoretically no at the 16-44.1 setting you can do a direct digital transfer between a CD player and a professional DAT machine. However DAT can record at 16-48 which was the default setting for home DAT machines to block digital transfer from CD to DAT. Of course you could always transfer using the analog circuitry with quality loss based on the quality of the analog outputs of the CD player and the analog inputs of the DAT recorder. When I bought my DAT machines (Tascam DA30's and DA40's) and even more so with my professional HHB CDR recorders you were often required to sign legal documentation that you would not direct copy manufactured CD's to CDR for commercial use.
@@darinb.3273 CD and DAT are comparatively the same sound quality. There's really no difference, except DAT using moving tape making seeking between tracks a little slower.
@@12voltvids I know, neither was I. Lol. The screw still managed to find something to short and give me a bad day 😆