@@themostlymikeshowI have the same bike but I don’t know what chain to get with the sprocket that comes with my torque converter kit? Any Idea of how to know? Thanks
Hi Jonah, the chain size should be the same as your original, only it has to be a little longer. The original chain is #420. I have this one listed in my Amazon store. It has three extra master links and the tool to cut the chain to length: www.amazon.com/dp/B08GFSJ1TQ?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamztoolman1-20&creativeASIN=B08GFSJ1TQ&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1VI3QLF6QNHLE&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
Thank you so much for watching and the kind words Emmanuel. I try to get the best camera angles that I can to show in the greatest detail. I am glad that it gets noticed. Please share this video with your friends!
The 60 tooth and TC is the way to go on the Coleman 200's especially for off road. I run a 9/60 tooth on mine and still top out around 47 MPH at 5000 RPM. Works nice off road.
Thanks for watching Deucealive! Holy crap, 47mph? I have never checked to see how fast mine goes but I'm pretty sure it's nowhere near 47. I still have the 10 tooth in front. I haven't done any of the mods such as removing the governor, carburetor work, or header pipe... Yet. I purchased the header pipe and a different Muffler. That will be coming up in a later video. For what I am doing I don't really need the speed, but that definitely sounds fun!
@@themostlymikeshow I did the top speed run once just to see what it would do. Like you, I don't need the top end at all. Most all of my riding is under 30.
Well that's very impressive to get that kind of speed. When I bought mine, I honestly just had a trail maintenance machine for my mountain bike trails in mind, but I am really having fun with the cheesy military theme that I do in the videos and really enjoy riding it. There's several upgrades coming in the future. I like to mix it up with the mountain biking stuff, tool reviews, and projects.
Hi Megan, did you want the link for the 9t or the 60t? I'll post both : www.amazon.com/dp/B079FFDHN4?tag=onamztoolman1-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B079FFDHN4&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1VI3QLF6QNHLE&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
Holy shit I’ve been researching these for years and just now discovered your channel. That is almost impossible. You are legendary. Much respect brother!
I appreciate your video with the step by step, and the parts break down. I got given one of these to work on, and I needed to be able to see whats not there to know what to fix.
Excellent tutorial video. I have a Coleman rb200, middle aged chick with no real mechanical experience and I think I can pull this off. I bought the rb200 to ride trails in the Kiamichi and Ouachita mountains. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching and the kind words Kristin! I hope that your installation goes smoothly. If you get stuck on anything, feel free to ask here and I will do my best to help. Best of luck!
Wow I see the difference no more bedrock foot peddling. I see alot of guys using the 9t front with 60t rear sprocket. Looking forward to your next coleman 200 video.
Comet style drivers always started to stick on me after a while, even cleaning and using dry lube religiously. Switched to a Juggernaut. Much better! I rarely blow them out with compressed air to get the belt dust out. Crazy how much belt sizes vary among brands despite being the same “size”. You can try various brands for a tighter fit or you can slot the holes in the back plate a little to tighten it up. You’ll get more torque out of a tight belt. We built a frame extension that lifted the rear 2 inches and stretched it 6. Really improved the offroad handling. Not many hills it won’t run up!
Thanks for the information, and for watching. I was completely new to the Coleman bikes until recently, but they are addictive to upgrade and work on. Pretty simple. I'll be making lots of upgrade videos in the future.
Just popped a TC on mine as well, but got a 38T sprocket. Had to order a new jet for the carb and still have to tune it but I'm so pumped to see how she goes!
Cool SRM! I hope that it gives you the same satisfaction as I got from mine! It should fly with that 38t. I'd like to hear what you get for top speed. Thanks for watching.
That is awesome! Nice work. Next up would be a better headlight for me, then that would be followed by a cart to be pulled behind it because you just made an awesome place to hook up something where you cut that bar off the rear 🤘🏻
Thanks Mark! Yes, there's definitely options to be taken advantage of with those stubs. I want to add a switch to the Headlight so that there's not a hard light spot in the videos, and for "stealth mode"😎
I have a RT 200 that I did the CVT and 68 tooth sprocket. Not only a lot more torque but also smooth engagement and no more vibration of the centrificical clutch trying to lock up!
Sounds like a cool setup Prostreet. I thought about getting a 68 at some point. There's lots of stuff that I'll be adding in future videos. Thanks for watching and sharing your setup.
@@themostlymikeshow no problem! I also have an aggressive mud tires that is six ply and much heavier and will still do close to 40mph with stage 1 kit.
You may have done it off camera but i would dry lube with graphite spray the driver pulley inside where it slides on the hub driver and any other parts that slide , make sure ( and don’t count on any instructions ) the driver pulley and driven pulley alignment are perfect , same for the rear chain sprocket and small front sprocket . Use a flat square bar for your alignment , 1/4 inch works good it fits between frame and rear sprocket while checking front sprocket alignment . Grease up your axles , will make a big difference while riding and in future when you want to take them apart . Video was very well done and enjoyed the ride !
Thanks for watching, the kind words as well as the valuable tips! I did not do the dry lube off camera, but I will be sure to do that. I'll also double check my alignment. I just used the "calibrated eye" when I aligned Trail Force One's, but nothing beats precise!
Great video. Very thorough. Thank you. There is no doubt that a torque converter greatly enhances the performance of a minibike. When I was a kid back in the 70s we all had minibikes with clutches. But one kid had a Honda Z50 and the 3 speed gearbox made it the fastest and torquiest minibike around. Even with its small 50cc engine it could beat the pants off the regular minibikes. In first gear it could climb hills that the regular minibikes couldn't touch and then in third gear it could beat them on the flat. Cheers from Canada :-)
Thanks for watching and the kind words Robin. They are a huge improvement. As much as this has improved the performance of my trail Force One, one of the commenters had mentioned using a different belt. I forget what the numbers were but it was a recent comment. I think I am going to try that on mine and probably make it a future video as well.
@@themostlymikeshow Hmm.. A different length of belt might change the rpm that the torque converter works at. I would guess that a shorter belt would work at lower rpms, and a longer belt would work at higher rpms. But just a wild guess :-)
@@themostlymikeshow Also a wider or narrower belt might change the rpm that the torque converter works at. But just a wild guess. Hopefully you will do a video on the other belt and explain what it does. Cheers :-)
Hey i was thinking about maybe getting one of these and have been watching videos on it, after having it for awhile is it still a good bike that you would recommend or has it had any problems at all?
Hi Brody. I don't run mine everyday, but Trail Force One has been treating me pretty well for a few years. It is very easy to work on. The only thing that went bad on it is the Rope mechanism to start it, which was 40 or so dollars. Other than that, they go pretty well. You're not going to break any speed records with it, but it is good to haul stuff around if you're building trails and lots of fun to ride and make little upgrades to. Thanks for watching!
I watched your video and installed a new torque converter. HOLY SH##!! Last winter I installed a predator 224 in my Coleman mini. This new combination is a beast! I'm actually a little afraid of this thing! I'm 70 yrs & 200 lbs and at half throttle it wants to do a wheelie!! Your videos have convinced me that if you tinker long enough you can build a great machine. You have a lot of neat ideas. Now I'm looking to replace the muffler as it is now way too close to my seat with the new engine. Any suggestions about planning for this? Dont want to order a pipe that doesn't fit. Some videos I've seen have a pipe hooked up to another extension pipe with a cool looking flange on the end. I guess they do this to cut down on the noise. Anyway, thanks again and keep those videos coming!
Thanks for watching and the kind words Dunamon. I actually bought a header pipe a while back that was just a flange sort of like you talked about and it was threaded on the end I believe to attach the muffler to. I don't think it was meant to be installed with the torque converter kit because of the height of the motor, but when I put it on I plan on modifying that pipe by heating it up with a torch and bending it. I don't think it's going to need bent that much, but that was the plan. It's been several months since I've done any Trail Force One videos. Maybe I will do that one in the near future.
Everything with the modification looks well but I am concerned that having the motor on top of the spacers will put a lof of pressure on the plate and possibly bend it over time. Is this a valid concern? Have you had any issues with that or was the plate able to handle everything. Very good bike by the way.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment and voice your concerns. I have never had any concerns with mine, nor have I heard of anyone having problems with that plate bending. It seems adequate for what it is and if anything I believe that the spacers could actually spread the stress Riser out. I don't have any scientific proof to back this, but just my opinion. I hope that this helps.
New sub here sir. Good stuff. I love my Coleman ct200u-ex. I swapped a predator 212 ghost and a TC with a juggernaut driver and it’s like a mini dirt bike now, tons of torque and it’ll still run 50ish. I also put a pit bike muffler on it, super fun bike and sounds great. I’ve got it and others on my channel if you’d like to see. Keep ‘em good my man!
Thanks JVS! Sounds like a cool rig that you have with your ct200u-ex. I'll be doing some more Trail Force One stuff hopefully soon. It's been hectic around here getting caught up in real life stuff, but slowly getting back to regular content production. I'll definitely be sure to check out your channel.
I got a ct100u and put a predator 224. Stage 1. Goes 47 mph with stock sprocket. Thinking about getting a torque converter for it so I can go on trail rides. would it be worth it? An new rear sprocket?
Thanks for watching Frank! It would definitely take away a few miles per hour, but if you have hills to climb on your trails, those upgrades will surely help.
Thanks for watching Leonard. I honestly don't know if they are necessary. They came with the kit from Gopowersports, so I put them on per their instructions. It has been a while since I installed this on my Coleman bike, Trail Force One, but I kind of remember something about the plastic cover fitment might be affected if you don't use them. They're available by theirselves on Amazon, and take bolts roughly an inch longer than the factory motor mount bolts... They are 1" x1" square tubing about 5 or 6" long. I hope that this helps you a little. Sorry I couldn't be of more help on this.
Thanks for watching Gilbert. Sorry about the late response, but for some reason I just got the notification for this comment. The torque converter I used in this video was purchased from Go Power Sports. They do not support this channel and I have been looking for more cost-effective ways for people to get the same results. I am not cutting down their product, because it is holding up well. I know what other companies need to do, but cannot get anyone to make the parts that I need to advise people on how to do a more economical conversion. Sorry that I could not be of more help. I am still waiting to find a vendor to that can make the adapter that I need to make the more economical torque converter kits work.
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I don't believe that it improves your speed, but I don't know this for sure, like if you had a higher gear ratio with your sprocket setup. The torque converter gives you lots of bottom end when the RPMs are low, and as you get up to speed the pulleys grow and Shrink to give you a different ratio on your primary drive. With higher gears, I am not sure if this would give you the same effect or not. I hope that this helps at least some.
@@themostlymikeshow thanks for the reply! After watching your video I ordered the same torque converter and man I love it! I am so happy i went with it. I see major improvement. I haven’t tested how fast I’m going but it seems to go faster but when I’m on trails there’s not many times I am even needing to go full speed hahah
Thanks for watching Ben. Yes, it definitely made the chain noise significantly quieter. It got a little bit louder for me when I put a nine tooth sprocket on in the front when I decelerate.
I had to think about that question Michael. I knew that in one of the Trail Force One videos I got a new one, but that was the one that I put the 60 tooth sprocket on the back. I am guessing that I did not have to lengthen the chain for the torque converter. Even the 60 tooth might have had enough adjustment to stretch it on. Sorry I don't have a definite answer.
Thanks for watching and the kind words CaptainFeral. I believe that they are one inch square tubing. I can't remember the hole spacing, but I think that the bolts are 5/16-18". I hope that this helps.
Hi Hayden. If I'm not mistaken, I think that that 6 mm bolt is a 6 mm X 1.0 thread. I am not sure how long it is though or if that is the thread pitch. I believe that there is a 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5 pitch on a 6mm bolt. I wish I knew more on that for you. As for the washers, they go under the name spring washers, or Belleville washers. I looked on Amazon and they sell them in small organizer cases with assortments pretty reasonable. I hope that this helps. Thanks for watching.
I've been watching videos for 3 days about cvt I was about to sell my mega mini moto but you sir helped so much thank you it was an 80cc bike but I swapped with a tillotson 225 performance motor time to tear it off by some washers and set it up properly it should do 60mph no problem thank you so much
@themostlymikeshow2582 absolutely I can't thank you enough the least I can do is sub have a great evening! My issue was there is no washers on the cvt it is angled not straight the belt is on backwards 😅 but now I know
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I'll be 100 percent honest.. I never really thought about that question. I cut it out because it's what everyone else had done when installing these. But that's a very good question. If you are going to be installing one of these, could you try it without cutting and let me know either way if it works or not? I usually check that sort of thing, but didn't this time.
@@themostlymikeshow absolutely. I’ll keep ya posted. I ordered the engine mount that both raises and slides the engine forward similar to the one found on OMB warehouse (eBay version and painted black, got the link from Black66 RUclipsr). Love the tube cutter idea though! I’ll do that if needed for any other reason. Thanks!
@@buddymedina glad to help out. If you run into any problems, I'll try to help out. You can contact me through the comments here, Instagram, or the Mostly Mike sHOW Facebook page
@@buddymedina Yeah the riser that raises and moves the engine forward will not need the chain guard mount cut. I have heard of guys not cutting the mount off but they had to chop a chunk out of the TC plate. On my bike I cut the mount off and spent a little time grinding it down to look like it wasn't there. The frame was getting painted anyway.
That's good to know. Thanks for the info. I'm kinda batting the idea around of either threading, welding, or hopefully using compression fittings to use the stubs that I left for holding something to the bike, like maybe camera brackets or something. I'll be making more upgrades to Trail Force One in the future, and of course making videos of the processes. Thanks for watching.
metabo vendor here, i sell their nail guns and corded tools, it’s pronounced meh tah boh not meta bow 😂 no hate to you thank you for posting tho it helped me with my install on my b200r 😂
Ha ha, I worked in a power plant for 15 years, and always pronounced it the way you said to prior to that. The power plant always pronounced it the way I did in the video, so I got in the habit. I appreciate the view and really glad that it helped you with your install.
Thanks for watching Wyatt. It's not a real difficult mod to do. I thought that it was one of the more worthwhile additions that I've made, but that was mainly because of my weight. Torque converters seem to give you the ideal ratio at low speed to give lots of torque, and then it evolves to give you better high-end. The normal setup that comes from Factory only gives you a single gear ratio, and they are not quite as durable from what I've Been Told. Adding a torque converter just seems to be what everybody does eventually. I hope this helps.
Sorry Frosty, I'm not real good with Carburetors. Maybe I'll try to learn it and make a future video about that. Sorry that I couldn't be of more help.
So why does it tell me to put 10w oil on the shaft not WD-40... Also the manual doesn't tell me to take apart clutch and live the shaft with bearing grease?
question, do other types of TC’s that are labeled as 3/4 inch work on these 196 motors? thinking about throwing one of these on my ct200u-ex. A response would be appreciated!
Hi Riley, thanks for watching. The thing you have to watch for is the output shaft on the motor. The Coleman's mostly come with a 5/8" motor shaft, which I think is pure nonsense. A company could make a ton of money if they made either a TC with a 5/8 bore, or an adapter from 5/8 to 3/4. I know what you're going to say, LOL they do make that. Problem is, most of the three quarter inch torque converters have the key built right into the 3/4 bore, which makes the 5/8 to 3/4 adapter sleeve not work. I had one sent to me from a company, and after it did not work, I machined a prototype for a 3/4 to 1 in adapter. I took pictures and gave them every Dimension that it had to be to make a 1 inch torque converter compatible. For some reason they never entertain the idea. They could make a ton of money selling that adapter for $20, and selling their $89 torque converter kit which includes everything else except the motor spacer blocks. This is how Go Power Sports is able to sell a torque converter kit for around $230 or more dollars. For some reason they are the only company that actually has a torque converter kit that does not require a bunch of hassle or extra Machining to directly Mount to a Coleman mini bike. Sorry for the long winded response. I hope that helps clear things a little bit.
Hi Chris. I purchased it from Gopowersports.com It was a little bit more money than a lot of the other options, but it was designed specifically for this model of bike. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching David. Yes, the chain should be 420. I have one in my Amazon store that comes with the tool to cut the chain as well as extra master links. I hope that this helps.
No problem! Thank you for watching. Glad that it was easy to follow. I try to make the instructionals as easy as possible with good camera angles. It's nice to hear when it's appreciated.
Thanks for watching it all comes down to whether or not your present chain is long enough, which could depend on how much adjustment is left on your rear axle, as long as the motor position. I think mine was only a couple links from making it but I put a brand new chain on. I hope that this helps.
Hopefully after the next one I'll be making another Trail Force One vid. I have been really busy with wrapping up some projects while it's still nice out, which affected my video production. It'll change soon.
Thanks for watching. I am not 100% sure if you would need the chain or not. It would be really close. 420 is what's actually on there, but it's just the length of it. There is some adjustment on the motor mounts as well as the back wheel axle to give you some leniency. It all depends on where yours is adjusted to now. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Thanks for watching! People have been asking what size chain goes on these. It's #420 . Here's my Amazon Store Link for the chain kit with the tool to shorten it: amzn.to/46NOkWL
I believe that they are 1 inch square tube. Stay tuned because my next video will be testing and reviewing a different brand of torque converter that is much cheaper than this one. Thanks for watching.
Great video, and some good pointers for my own future TC addition. Right now waiting for some Bobber Seat solo springs to add a little suspension to that seat. Looks like you could try that mod too.
Thanks for watching Connor. Are you talking about the bolt that goes into the center of the motor shaft? If so, I can't remember if they came in the torque converter kit or if they are reused from what comes on the bike. I believe they are belleville-style washers, sort of spring loaded.
I'm pretty sure that they were already on the old centrifugal clutch, but that spacing is pretty important. I apologize for not being able to remember more. That video was from about 2 years ago. I'm glad it helped.
I bought mine through www.gopowersports.com I was going to buy everything separately on Amazon, but really had no idea what it was going to entail, so the kit that they sell was inclusive of the whole installation. It's a little pricier though. I hope that this helps. Thanks for watching.
Do you know how far apart the screws are that’s if you are closer to the frame of the bike. how far from did you drill from centrr of both screws on the spacer did you drill
Thanks for watching. I had just filmed measuring those pieces for a different experimental torque converter installation, and it was a flop so far. That kit didn't include the spacers, so I was showing the dimensions. I'll see if I can locate that clip and get that for you. On Amazon, there’s a spacer plate to do this, but they want an arm and a leg for it. It's like 75 US bucks ..
@@themostlymikeshow All good now. i just sprayed painted downthe holes and then drill holes in a block of wood then used that to then drill holes in to small cuts and then spray painted it all black.
Thanks for watching. I'm not sure on that. I'm out camping so I can't look at mine to see what's in there. I can't remember if there's spacers or if the sprocket can be loosened then moved on the shaft.
Hi Walker. Is your kit from Go Power Sports? If so, it should have. If it's one of the more economical torque converter kits from Amazon, probably not. They are basically just 1 in square tubing with 5/16 holes drilled through to match the motor mount bolts. Some people say that they aren't required, but I haven't tried not using them on mine. I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow I see you have left hand handle, usually left hand handle is for clutch, right hand for brake. Or you follow automatic bike rule, both handle is for brake.
@RickardoPandiangan Thanks for watching. This is just how the bike came set up. I never bothered to change it, but really didn't have any difficulty getting used to it this way. However, in the future, I plan to add a front brake, which might end up with adding a foot control for the rear.
Thanks for watching. I'm not sure if it would work. It would depend on the plate that holds the shafts and the bolt patterns to mount it. It may work with some modifications, but wouldn't know for sure unless I tried.
According to Comet (originally builder of this torque converter) says on their website that the driver pully bolt is supposed to receive 24-30 foot lbs. of torque… I’ll keep checking mine after every ride lol, because I’m not sure this bolt could handle that much torque foot lbs.
Thanks for watching and commenting Scotty! I agree 24 to 30 foot pounds would be Insanity on that small Bolt. Maybe 24 to 30 inch pounds might not seem unreasonable. I have never had one come loose yet just giving it decent calibrated elbow torque. LOL
The Comet doc that I seen says 20 ft/lb for the driver bolt. I use a 2 1/2" long bolt, a flat washer and a lock washer with blue loctite. But you have to be careful because some crankshafts will not take all the threads of a 2 1/2" long bolt and will bottom out. I think a 2" long bolt is too short. I should note that the 20 ft/lb is for a 5/16x24 bolt. I'm not sure what the torque spec is for the smaller metric bolt.
ANNNDDDDD just like that, a new follower. My trusty stead is a Coleman BT200X, this winter it gets pimped. A Predator 224, torque convertor, 60 tooth rear sprocket. I'll look at a stage 1 later.
I plan on doing lots more mods in some future videos. A company had sent me a torque converter kit that is about eighty bucks, but I had some issues with it where it didn't work. I'm working with them hoping to get them to sell the part needed which would make that conversion right around a hundred bucks total which is under half the price of this one.
@@themostlymikeshow That's awesome, do you mind me asking what was missing ? A friend of mine would sell me some of his stuff (used brass) at a discount was the only type of sponsorship i got. But I've only got 400ish subscribers. l'll be watching for the upgrades, with antic........apatation
Thanks for watching Bob. I would say that a good mechanic that does this stuff all the time would probably take a maximum of two hours to install this. I'm just a hobbyist, and filmed this installation and it didn't take me very long to get it installed. I didn't time it, but I would say that the biggest consumer of time was cutting that piece out of the frame. Others mentioned in the comments that if you buy the offset motor mount plate, that it is not necessary to cut that piece out. I can't confirm or deny this. I hope this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow thanks for the reply. Lowe’s sells a similar mini bike to the Coleman. It’s called axis and looks almost identical except for the color.
Hmm. I'm guessing that it would probably work. If you are lucky enough to have a 3/4" motor shaft, there's way cheaper torque converter kits on Amazon for less than half the price of the ones from Go powersports
Hi Oliver. I'm not sure what the manufacturer is, but I purchased it from Gopowersports. I have been trying to find something cheaper and make it work, and hopefully make a future video showing that.
@themostlymikeshow2582 Hey, I did this mod exactly how you did it with the 1inch square tubing however you cannot tighten the engine mount bolts very tight because you will bend in the tubing. My engine slides over time until the chain comes off of my bike so what is your solution for the engine sliding?
Thanks for watching Craig. Hmmm, how thick were the walls on your tubing? I used the tubing from the kit from Go Powersports and it didn't bend. I guess that either heavier tubing, or if you could get a stack of washers to fill the void in the hollow of the tubing would allow you to tighten it more without bending the tubing. I would say maybe even stacking washers instead of using tubing may work, but I think the tubing helps keep things lined up better. I hope this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow I did think of those. Thanks for the tips. I think I will put a chain tensioner on mine and see if that helps. I used 1” square tubing from Menards for my build.
Thanks for watching Allgold. Are you having a tough time with the front sprocket and back sprocket being out of parallel with each other? One way is to loosen the four motor mounting bolts and there should be enough play to get them in line with each other. You can get the rear axle to move a little to fix this as well by adjusting the two chain tensioners accordingly. If you use this method, be sure to adjust the brake cable. Depending on how much you change it, the brake cable will tighten to the point of locking the brake, or loosen it to the point that it won't engage. I hope that this helps.
I haven't actually checked the speed but I would guess that it's somewhere between 20 and 25 mph. Most of the upgrades that I am doing are for more torque which is usually less speed. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching and sharing Martin. I have the 60 tooth, 9 tooth front sprocket, and torque converter. That's about all I get is 15 mph. I got some requests to do a speed build, but for what I like to do this is more than adequate.
@@themostlymikeshow so update. I drilled out the throttle stop screw because there’s a governor inside of the engine anyways and holy shit does it rip and go fast even with the 60 tooth. I highly recommend
I will have to look. I believe that it was around 3/4 to 1 inch. I'll try to remember to check it out tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for watching.
Hi. I couldn't find the package for what I used, but I did find the piece that I cut out of the frame. It's just under 11/16" so 3/4 shrink tubing should work. I found this on Amazon which should work for you. I also put it in the description. amzn.to/3noV5d7
Hi Carl. Thanks for watching, subscribing, and clicking the thumbs up. Here's the link for the kit that I purchased for this video : www.gopowersports.com/coleman-200-series-torque-converter-kit/ I had just added it to description as well.
@@themostlymikeshow Installed now its slower than stock? any ideas?the only thing I can think of is to align the rear sprocket to the front....belt facing right way check gone through the housing a few times check
Hi Carl. On mine, I didn't see much of an increase in speed, but it wasn't really slower either. It gained a lot of power on the hills which is what I was trying to achieve. If you're looking to go faster, either making the front sprocket larger, or the rear sprocket smaller will do that. There's some Hacks out there with the governor on the motor and the throttle which you may have already seen. I had built mine for more torque on the hills and power from the start more so than making it go fast. I'd get hurt going fast on a ct200u-ex on my bike trails. I just got an Amazon Storefront which I will make a list of all of the things that I have added to mine in the videos. I hope that this helps.
I,m searching for where half of my power went its pretty slow it feels as if there isn't a good transfer of the motors power to the tire.I,m going over my work again today and will confer with Go Power plan.I have modded cars before feels like I,m getting the bug again!
I think that the high end on level ground is roughly the same, but the speed on the not so steep climbs is way faster. It seems to always run at a more consistent rpm, which is good.
Thanks Neebles. I bent the tab on the throttle gov, but haven't messed much with the internal governor aside from the zip tie trick. I'm a little bit scared of making the valves float if I remove it completely without adding heavier valve springs. I might do that in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Also with custom custom muffler just got my torque converter I’m juiced to see how much fast I’m go I’m just rebuilding my whole a car hit when I was going 75 down the streets hit and ran on me 😂 but thanks good I a pit bike suit and helmet on just walked away with some bruising and a broken finger and a pit bike bent in half
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience Diego. Your machine sounds really impressive! Great to hear that your injuries were minimal and you were able to walk away from the crash. You're welcome to share pictures and your story on The Mostly Mike sHOW Facebook page.
Thanks for watching Garrimic3. When I made this video, removing that brace bar was something that I thought I had to do, according to the Go Power Sports video. It is possible that you may not have to cut it out. I can't really say yes or no to that. Sorry if I couldn't be of more help.
Nope, no problems at all. I questioned that myself, and I read somewhere that the only purpose for that bar was to support the chain guard, which I eliminated completely before I decided to do this upgrade. I would definitely recommend to either wear footwear without laces if you run without guards. I don't always practice what I preach, but please be careful.
I tried using one of the economical kits that a company offered to send me in exchange for making a review video, and after taking the one that I purchased from Go Power Sports off, I realized that even with buying a 5/8 to 3/4 in shaft adapter, that it was not going to work with my application. I don't know why Coleman does this but they make a 5/8 output shaft on the motor, and it is machined down from 3/4 in almost as if they do not want people to upgrade. I kind of reverse engineered what Go Power Sports has done and made a prototype adapter that would make one of these economical $79 kits work. The company that sent it hasn't answered any of my emails showing pictures of the part. If I could get a company to make me a bunch of these parts, I would definitely get into the business of selling these. The kit that they sent included just about everything needed, and I could either manufacture or purchase to resell the rest, and probably off for these at half the price that go power sports asks for the complete kit. Most hardware stores should sell that Bolt, or possibly Amazon.
@@themostlymikeshow indeed. The kit was fine but didn't come with a 6mm bolt and the OEM was too short to carry over. I bet a longer 6mm and a few washers will work. Can you confirm the chain and links you need?
The number of the chain is 420, but I am not sure how many links. It's better to be a little bit long if you hold it together and estimate with it on the sprockets than to not have enough. You can pull up a lot of the slop by either moving the motor forward with the little bit of play in the holes, OR by the tensioners on the rear axle.
I got past that last hurdle with a longer M6x50mm bolt. I'm going to take you advice and try to salvage the belt but moving engine mount and rear wheel. Just when I thought I was done with those dame engine mount bolts.
Thanks for watching James. I would like to think that if it's the same motor as the Ct200u-ex, which I'm not sure of... This one should work. But I don't know for positive. The guys at Go Powersports should know. Sorry that I am not more help.
Thanks Nova. In the next week or so, I will be posting a new torque converter video testing a cheaper alternative to this brand. It's around 1/3 of the price, and I'll be posting a discount code. Thanks for watching.
Hi Andy. Are you talking about the Bolt that holds the driver pulley on? I don't recall exactly how long that bolt is, but I believe it was around 20 mm. You definitely do not want to over tighten that one or bottom it out though. If you buy one from the hardware store I would definitely make sure you can turn it by hand all the way in.
I think that mine was a little bit slower too, but I knew that to begin with. At my weight, the torque converter is heavier duty, and lowers the gearing to a degree. There's a few options to get your speed back and then some. Your front sprocket is probably 10 or 11 tooth. They change out pretty quickly and easily. A smaller rear sprocket will give you more speed as well. The higher that you make the gear ratio though, comes with a sacrifice of less torque. There's some engine mods that might make it a little faster too. I haven't done any upgrades to my engine on Trail Force One yet. I hope that this helps.
Ok so the clutch bolt is 10mm, mine was literally missing been riding that way who knows how long. I tried an 8mm from the bike and it fit but I'll buy a 10mm to make sure it holds
Thanks for watching. I am not so sure if it's an 8 mm by 1.25 as far as threads are concerned. If it fits with little play Then 8mm is fine. I think in the video I was just talking a 10 mm wrench for the bolt head size.
@@themostlymikeshow So mine was 6mm threads, 1inch, with a 10mm head. That's what I got to fit. Really thought the bolt would have been bigger but it wasn't.
Thanks for watching Barn Fresh. I have been looking for a more economical way to get the same results as the GPS one without the 200 dollar price point, but none of the companies want to entertain making the one part that they would need to sell with their torque converter units to make them work with the 5/8" shaft that's on these Coleman engines.
i am watching your video with three girls. The just freaked about your comment abut the rectangle mark on the exhaust “pantie liner shaped mark” they think you're very strange,
Oh, I forgot about that "joke" in there. That video was made a couple years ago. I must have really been scraping the bottom of the barrel for "humor" I suppose. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching Angry Veteran. The one on Trail Force One is stock. It might appear brighter with color enhancers in my gopro. I started unplugging it in later videos because I felt that the hard light spot was distracting in the videos.
*Dude, If you don't tighten the HELL out of the main shaft bolt you will find the convertor laying in the DIRT in the first few weeks! Also the bolt included is JUNK. Buy a black steel GRADE #8 hard bolt or you will spend the day cursing at your EASY-OUT tool !*
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Extremely helpful, organized and detailed but concise. Mike's dry sense of humor is engaging. Easy to listen to.
Thanks for watching and the kind words Scott. Have you installed one on yours yet? I try to add some humor and close camera shots in all of my videos.
@@themostlymikeshowI have the same bike but I don’t know what chain to get with the sprocket that comes with my torque converter kit? Any Idea of how to know? Thanks
Hi Jonah, the chain size should be the same as your original, only it has to be a little longer. The original chain is #420. I have this one listed in my Amazon store. It has three extra master links and the tool to cut the chain to length:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08GFSJ1TQ?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamztoolman1-20&creativeASIN=B08GFSJ1TQ&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1VI3QLF6QNHLE&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
Just hit 46.7MPH on my Coleman 200EX with a GPS stage 1 and GPS Torque Converter. Thank you! It’s terrifying now ❤️
Pretty cool Dylan! I just picked up some more goodies for mine, so more Trail Force One videos in the future. Thanks for watching!
Best installation video I have ever came across on ! Straight to the point , good angle views , and deeply detailed instructions!
Thank you so much for watching and the kind words Emmanuel. I try to get the best camera angles that I can to show in the greatest detail. I am glad that it gets noticed. Please share this video with your friends!
What rear tooth size
What front sprocket size. What chain size? A #35 or 420??
The chain size is #420. Thanks for watching.
The 60 tooth and TC is the way to go on the Coleman 200's especially for off road. I run a 9/60 tooth on mine and still top out around 47 MPH at 5000 RPM. Works nice off road.
Thanks for watching Deucealive! Holy crap, 47mph? I have never checked to see how fast mine goes but I'm pretty sure it's nowhere near 47. I still have the 10 tooth in front. I haven't done any of the mods such as removing the governor, carburetor work, or header pipe... Yet. I purchased the header pipe and a different Muffler. That will be coming up in a later video. For what I am doing I don't really need the speed, but that definitely sounds fun!
@@themostlymikeshow I did the top speed run once just to see what it would do. Like you, I don't need the top end at all. Most all of my riding is under 30.
Well that's very impressive to get that kind of speed. When I bought mine, I honestly just had a trail maintenance machine for my mountain bike trails in mind, but I am really having fun with the cheesy military theme that I do in the videos and really enjoy riding it. There's several upgrades coming in the future. I like to mix it up with the mountain biking stuff, tool reviews, and projects.
Which one did you go with if you have a link?
Hi Megan, did you want the link for the 9t or the 60t? I'll post both :
www.amazon.com/dp/B079FFDHN4?tag=onamztoolman1-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B079FFDHN4&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1VI3QLF6QNHLE&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
Holy shit I’ve been researching these for years and just now discovered your channel. That is almost impossible. You are legendary. Much respect brother!
Thanks for watching and the kind words Shadow Jack! More videos on the way!
@@themostlymikeshow I was just bored browsing, wish I had seen more of your content as a beginner. Much love brother!
I just bought my first Coleman yesterday, im gonna follow ur videos on what to do n how to do it this was an excellent video
Thanks for watching, and the kind words. I hope that the video helps you. If you get stuck on anything, let me know, and I will try to help.
I appreciate your video with the step by step, and the parts break down. I got given one of these to work on, and I needed to be able to see whats not there to know what to fix.
Thanks for watching and the kind words CombatDeffective. Glad you enjoyed.
Excellent tutorial video. I have a Coleman rb200, middle aged chick with no real mechanical experience and I think I can pull this off. I bought the rb200 to ride trails in the Kiamichi and Ouachita mountains. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching and the kind words Kristin! I hope that your installation goes smoothly. If you get stuck on anything, feel free to ask here and I will do my best to help. Best of luck!
Wow I see the difference no more bedrock foot peddling. I see alot of guys using the 9t front with 60t rear sprocket. Looking forward to your next coleman 200 video.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I just purchased a 9t and should hopefully get the video out in the near future showing its performance.
Comet style drivers always started to stick on me after a while, even cleaning and using dry lube religiously. Switched to a Juggernaut. Much better! I rarely blow them out with compressed air to get the belt dust out.
Crazy how much belt sizes vary among brands despite being the same “size”. You can try various brands for a tighter fit or you can slot the holes in the back plate a little to tighten it up. You’ll get more torque out of a tight belt.
We built a frame extension that lifted the rear 2 inches and stretched it 6. Really improved the offroad handling. Not many hills it won’t run up!
Thanks for the information, and for watching. I was completely new to the Coleman bikes until recently, but they are addictive to upgrade and work on. Pretty simple. I'll be making lots of upgrade videos in the future.
I love the smell of angle grinder sparks in the morning. :)
Ha ha! Yup! There's nothing like it. Thanks for watching!
This was my favorite mod you have done. The POV was cool too.
Thanks Mike! That thing really tears up the hills now. More to come!
Just popped a TC on mine as well, but got a 38T sprocket. Had to order a new jet for the carb and still have to tune it but I'm so pumped to see how she goes!
Cool SRM! I hope that it gives you the same satisfaction as I got from mine! It should fly with that 38t. I'd like to hear what you get for top speed. Thanks for watching.
That is awesome! Nice work. Next up would be a better headlight for me, then that would be followed by a cart to be pulled behind it because you just made an awesome place to hook up something where you cut that bar off the rear 🤘🏻
Thanks Mark! Yes, there's definitely options to be taken advantage of with those stubs. I want to add a switch to the Headlight so that there's not a hard light spot in the videos, and for "stealth mode"😎
I have a RT 200 that I did the CVT and 68 tooth sprocket. Not only a lot more torque but also smooth engagement and no more vibration of the centrificical clutch trying to lock up!
Sounds like a cool setup Prostreet. I thought about getting a 68 at some point. There's lots of stuff that I'll be adding in future videos. Thanks for watching and sharing your setup.
@@themostlymikeshow no problem! I also have an aggressive mud tires that is six ply and much heavier and will still do close to 40mph with stage 1 kit.
@@prostreetgsxr That sounds awesome!
You may have done it off camera but i would dry lube with graphite spray the driver pulley inside where it slides on the hub driver and any other parts that slide , make sure ( and don’t count on any instructions ) the driver pulley and driven pulley alignment are perfect , same for the rear chain sprocket and small front sprocket . Use a flat square bar for your alignment , 1/4 inch works good it fits between frame and rear sprocket while checking front sprocket alignment . Grease up your axles , will make a big difference while riding and in future when you want to take them apart . Video was very well done and enjoyed the ride !
Thanks for watching, the kind words as well as the valuable tips! I did not do the dry lube off camera, but I will be sure to do that. I'll also double check my alignment. I just used the "calibrated eye" when I aligned Trail Force One's, but nothing beats precise!
Great video. Very thorough. Thank you. There is no doubt that a torque converter greatly enhances the performance of a minibike. When I was a kid back in the 70s we all had minibikes with clutches. But one kid had a Honda Z50 and the 3 speed gearbox made it the fastest and torquiest minibike around. Even with its small 50cc engine it could beat the pants off the regular minibikes. In first gear it could climb hills that the regular minibikes couldn't touch and then in third gear it could beat them on the flat. Cheers from Canada :-)
Thanks for watching and the kind words Robin. They are a huge improvement. As much as this has improved the performance of my trail Force One, one of the commenters had mentioned using a different belt. I forget what the numbers were but it was a recent comment. I think I am going to try that on mine and probably make it a future video as well.
@@themostlymikeshow
Hmm.. A different length of belt might change the rpm that the torque converter works at. I would guess that a shorter belt would work at lower rpms, and a longer belt would work at higher rpms. But just a wild guess :-)
@@themostlymikeshow Also a wider or narrower belt might change the rpm that the torque converter works at. But just a wild guess. Hopefully you will do a video on the other belt and explain what it does. Cheers :-)
Hey i was thinking about maybe getting one of these and have been watching videos on it, after having it for awhile is it still a good bike that you would recommend or has it had any problems at all?
Hi Brody. I don't run mine everyday, but Trail Force One has been treating me pretty well for a few years. It is very easy to work on. The only thing that went bad on it is the Rope mechanism to start it, which was 40 or so dollars. Other than that, they go pretty well. You're not going to break any speed records with it, but it is good to haul stuff around if you're building trails and lots of fun to ride and make little upgrades to. Thanks for watching!
I watched your video and installed a new torque converter. HOLY SH##!! Last winter I installed a predator 224 in my Coleman mini. This new combination is a beast! I'm actually a little afraid of this thing! I'm 70 yrs & 200 lbs and at half throttle it wants to do a wheelie!! Your videos have convinced me that if you tinker long enough you can build a great machine. You have a lot of neat ideas. Now I'm looking to replace the muffler as it is now way too close to my seat with the new engine. Any suggestions about planning for this? Dont want to order a pipe that doesn't fit. Some videos I've seen have a pipe hooked up to another extension pipe with a cool looking flange on the end. I guess they do this to cut down on the noise. Anyway, thanks again and keep those videos coming!
Thanks for watching and the kind words Dunamon. I actually bought a header pipe a while back that was just a flange sort of like you talked about and it was threaded on the end I believe to attach the muffler to. I don't think it was meant to be installed with the torque converter kit because of the height of the motor, but when I put it on I plan on modifying that pipe by heating it up with a torch and bending it. I don't think it's going to need bent that much, but that was the plan. It's been several months since I've done any Trail Force One videos. Maybe I will do that one in the near future.
Everything with the modification looks well but I am concerned that having the motor on top of the spacers will put a lof of pressure on the plate and possibly bend it over time. Is this a valid concern? Have you had any issues with that or was the plate able to handle everything. Very good bike by the way.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment and voice your concerns. I have never had any concerns with mine, nor have I heard of anyone having problems with that plate bending. It seems adequate for what it is and if anything I believe that the spacers could actually spread the stress Riser out. I don't have any scientific proof to back this, but just my opinion. I hope that this helps.
Got mine from O'Reilly's Auto parts.also use a air compressor grinder ,much faster than a little Dremel.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience Larry. Does O'Reilly's carry the torque converters?
New sub here sir. Good stuff. I love my Coleman ct200u-ex. I swapped a predator 212 ghost and a TC with a juggernaut driver and it’s like a mini dirt bike now, tons of torque and it’ll still run 50ish. I also put a pit bike muffler on it, super fun bike and sounds great. I’ve got it and others on my channel if you’d like to see. Keep ‘em good my man!
Thanks JVS! Sounds like a cool rig that you have with your ct200u-ex. I'll be doing some more Trail Force One stuff hopefully soon. It's been hectic around here getting caught up in real life stuff, but slowly getting back to regular content production. I'll definitely be sure to check out your channel.
9😊
I got a ct100u and put a predator 224. Stage 1. Goes 47 mph with stock sprocket. Thinking about getting a torque converter for it so I can go on trail rides. would it be worth it? An new rear sprocket?
Thanks for watching Frank! It would definitely take away a few miles per hour, but if you have hills to climb on your trails, those upgrades will surely help.
Which stage 1 kit did you go with & what did it run you? Also was it hard to install? im new to wrenching.
Is the engine risers necessary?
Thanks for watching Leonard. I honestly don't know if they are necessary. They came with the kit from Gopowersports, so I put them on per their instructions. It has been a while since I installed this on my Coleman bike, Trail Force One, but I kind of remember something about the plastic cover fitment might be affected if you don't use them. They're available by theirselves on Amazon, and take bolts roughly an inch longer than the factory motor mount bolts... They are 1" x1" square tubing about 5 or 6" long. I hope that this helps you a little. Sorry I couldn't be of more help on this.
Hey mostly Mike I have a 200cc mini bike with the the 5/8 and I was wondering whta torqe converter is that?
Thanks for watching Gilbert. Sorry about the late response, but for some reason I just got the notification for this comment. The torque converter I used in this video was purchased from Go Power Sports. They do not support this channel and I have been looking for more cost-effective ways for people to get the same results. I am not cutting down their product, because it is holding up well. I know what other companies need to do, but cannot get anyone to make the parts that I need to advise people on how to do a more economical conversion. Sorry that I could not be of more help. I am still waiting to find a vendor to that can make the adapter that I need to make the more economical torque converter kits work.
Does the torque converter improve the speed? Thank you for the great step by step video!
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I don't believe that it improves your speed, but I don't know this for sure, like if you had a higher gear ratio with your sprocket setup. The torque converter gives you lots of bottom end when the RPMs are low, and as you get up to speed the pulleys grow and Shrink to give you a different ratio on your primary drive. With higher gears, I am not sure if this would give you the same effect or not. I hope that this helps at least some.
@@themostlymikeshow thanks for the reply! After watching your video I ordered the same torque converter and man I love it! I am so happy i went with it. I see major improvement. I haven’t tested how fast I’m going but it seems to go faster but when I’m on trails there’s not many times I am even needing to go full speed hahah
@altraveling7019 Great to hear Al! Glad that it helped.
How many tooth front sprocket you have is it 10t or 12t?
Hi L.A.M. Mine has the 10t at this time, but I bought the 9t, which will be installed and tested/reviewed in the near future. Thanks for watching!
did you happen to replace the return spring on throttle linkage?
Thanks for watching Moto City Rider. No I haven't. Are you looking for the spring type, size, etc?
My stock bike always has lots of chain noise. It's stock with low miles. Does a TC make for a quieter ride?
Thanks for watching Ben. Yes, it definitely made the chain noise significantly quieter. It got a little bit louder for me when I put a nine tooth sprocket on in the front when I decelerate.
Did you use old chain? Have to resize it?
I had to think about that question Michael. I knew that in one of the Trail Force One videos I got a new one, but that was the one that I put the 60 tooth sprocket on the back. I am guessing that I did not have to lengthen the chain for the torque converter. Even the 60 tooth might have had enough adjustment to stretch it on. Sorry I don't have a definite answer.
Love this video huge help!! Do u mind telling me what size the motor risers where?
Thanks for watching and the kind words CaptainFeral. I believe that they are one inch square tubing. I can't remember the hole spacing, but I think that the bolts are 5/16-18". I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow thank you sir! Appreciate the tutorial and your channel!
My six millimeter bolt and lock washers Came off my driver I can't seem too find Where to get replacements.
Hi Hayden. If I'm not mistaken, I think that that 6 mm bolt is a 6 mm X 1.0 thread. I am not sure how long it is though or if that is the thread pitch. I believe that there is a 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5 pitch on a 6mm bolt. I wish I knew more on that for you. As for the washers, they go under the name spring washers, or Belleville washers. I looked on Amazon and they sell them in small organizer cases with assortments pretty reasonable. I hope that this helps. Thanks for watching.
I've been watching videos for 3 days about cvt I was about to sell my mega mini moto but you sir helped so much thank you it was an 80cc bike but I swapped with a tillotson 225 performance motor time to tear it off by some washers and set it up properly it should do 60mph no problem thank you so much
Thanks for watching and the kind words Jake! I'm glad that it helped you. Comments letting me know that I helped always make my day!
@themostlymikeshow2582 absolutely I can't thank you enough the least I can do is sub have a great evening! My issue was there is no washers on the cvt it is angled not straight the belt is on backwards 😅 but now I know
Great video thank you. Did you have to remove the bar with the riser mount in place? Looks like the chain would have cleared right? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I'll be 100 percent honest.. I never really thought about that question. I cut it out because it's what everyone else had done when installing these. But that's a very good question. If you are going to be installing one of these, could you try it without cutting and let me know either way if it works or not? I usually check that sort of thing, but didn't this time.
@@themostlymikeshow absolutely. I’ll keep ya posted. I ordered the engine mount that both raises and slides the engine forward similar to the one found on OMB warehouse (eBay version and painted black, got the link from Black66 RUclipsr). Love the tube cutter idea though! I’ll do that if needed for any other reason. Thanks!
@@buddymedina glad to help out. If you run into any problems, I'll try to help out. You can contact me through the comments here, Instagram, or the Mostly Mike sHOW Facebook page
@@buddymedina Yeah the riser that raises and moves the engine forward will not need the chain guard mount cut. I have heard of guys not cutting the mount off but they had to chop a chunk out of the TC plate. On my bike I cut the mount off and spent a little time grinding it down to look like it wasn't there. The frame was getting painted anyway.
That's good to know. Thanks for the info. I'm kinda batting the idea around of either threading, welding, or hopefully using compression fittings to use the stubs that I left for holding something to the bike, like maybe camera brackets or something. I'll be making more upgrades to Trail Force One in the future, and of course making videos of the processes. Thanks for watching.
metabo vendor here, i sell their nail guns and corded tools, it’s pronounced
meh tah boh not meta bow 😂 no hate to you thank you for posting tho it helped me with my install on my b200r 😂
Ha ha, I worked in a power plant for 15 years, and always pronounced it the way you said to prior to that. The power plant always pronounced it the way I did in the video, so I got in the habit. I appreciate the view and really glad that it helped you with your install.
I have the b200r,all the tools you mentioned in this vido but i haven't really done enything like this,would you recommend this modification
Thanks for watching Wyatt. It's not a real difficult mod to do. I thought that it was one of the more worthwhile additions that I've made, but that was mainly because of my weight.
Torque converters seem to give you the ideal ratio at low speed to give lots of torque, and then it evolves to give you better high-end.
The normal setup that comes from Factory only gives you a single gear ratio, and they are not quite as durable from what I've Been Told. Adding a torque converter just seems to be what everybody does eventually. I hope this helps.
Do you have any videos or tips and tricks on tuning a Coleman minibike carburetor mixture screw
Sorry Frosty, I'm not real good with Carburetors. Maybe I'll try to learn it and make a future video about that. Sorry that I couldn't be of more help.
So why does it tell me to put 10w oil on the shaft not WD-40... Also the manual doesn't tell me to take apart clutch and live the shaft with bearing grease?
Thanks for watching Jonathan. Can you please explain what part of the video that you are referring to? I don't understand your question.
question, do other types of TC’s that are labeled as 3/4 inch work on these 196 motors? thinking about throwing one of these on my ct200u-ex. A response would be appreciated!
Hi Riley, thanks for watching. The thing you have to watch for is the output shaft on the motor. The Coleman's mostly come with a 5/8" motor shaft, which I think is pure nonsense. A company could make a ton of money if they made either a TC with a 5/8 bore, or an adapter from 5/8 to 3/4. I know what you're going to say, LOL they do make that. Problem is, most of the three quarter inch torque converters have the key built right into the 3/4 bore, which makes the 5/8 to 3/4 adapter sleeve not work. I had one sent to me from a company, and after it did not work, I machined a prototype for a 3/4 to 1 in adapter. I took pictures and gave them every Dimension that it had to be to make a 1 inch torque converter compatible. For some reason they never entertain the idea. They could make a ton of money selling that adapter for $20, and selling their $89 torque converter kit which includes everything else except the motor spacer blocks. This is how Go Power Sports is able to sell a torque converter kit for around $230 or more dollars. For some reason they are the only company that actually has a torque converter kit that does not require a bunch of hassle or extra Machining to directly Mount to a Coleman mini bike. Sorry for the long winded response. I hope that helps clear things a little bit.
Hi Mike where did you buy this exact kit from?
Hi Chris. I purchased it from Gopowersports.com
It was a little bit more money than a lot of the other options, but it was designed specifically for this model of bike. Thanks for watching.
What size are your flat washers?
Which flat washers are you talking about? On the driver pulley under the 10mm bolt head?
If your running a 50t rear 11t tc the 420 chain should work right? Ha new to building minis
Thanks for watching David. Yes, the chain should be 420. I have one in my Amazon store that comes with the tool to cut the chain as well as extra master links. I hope that this helps.
Thank you for the easy to follow video.
No problem! Thank you for watching. Glad that it was easy to follow. I try to make the instructionals as easy as possible with good camera angles. It's nice to hear when it's appreciated.
Do I need a new chain for my mini bike or can I leave it be?
Thanks for watching it all comes down to whether or not your present chain is long enough, which could depend on how much adjustment is left on your rear axle, as long as the motor position. I think mine was only a couple links from making it but I put a brand new chain on. I hope that this helps.
I have everything I need for this execpt the washers, what size are they? im about to pick some up
Thanks for watching Slaine Sir. Which washers are you talking about?
Patiently waiting for another Trail Force 1 video on mods
Hopefully after the next one I'll be making another Trail Force One vid. I have been really busy with wrapping up some projects while it's still nice out, which affected my video production. It'll change soon.
do I need to order the 420 chain if i have ordered the 30 series torque converter?
Thanks for watching. I am not 100% sure if you would need the chain or not. It would be really close. 420 is what's actually on there, but it's just the length of it. There is some adjustment on the motor mounts as well as the back wheel axle to give you some leniency. It all depends on where yours is adjusted to now. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Thanks for responding so fast, any insight is better than none and I enjoy watching your videos@@themostlymikeshow
Thanks for watching! People have been asking what size chain goes on these. It's #420 . Here's my Amazon Store Link for the chain kit with the tool to shorten it:
amzn.to/46NOkWL
What size spacers would I need for the engine?
I believe that they are 1 inch square tube. Stay tuned because my next video will be testing and reviewing a different brand of torque converter that is much cheaper than this one. Thanks for watching.
Great video, and some good pointers for my own future TC addition. Right now waiting for some Bobber Seat solo springs to add a little suspension to that seat. Looks like you could try that mod too.
Thanks for watching 39knights! That's a great idea for a future video. I hope that your TC mod goes well. I love mine.
What washers did you get for the bolt that holds it together
Thanks for watching Connor. Are you talking about the bolt that goes into the center of the motor shaft? If so, I can't remember if they came in the torque converter kit or if they are reused from what comes on the bike. I believe they are belleville-style washers, sort of spring loaded.
@@themostlymikeshow yeah the middle one and Thankss for info Mann
I'm pretty sure that they were already on the old centrifugal clutch, but that spacing is pretty important. I apologize for not being able to remember more. That video was from about 2 years ago. I'm glad it helped.
My kit didn't come with spa ers what should I do
Spacers for under the motor?
Could you put the link in the comment cause I want to get one for my bt200x but idk what sizes
I bought mine through www.gopowersports.com
I was going to buy everything separately on Amazon, but really had no idea what it was going to entail, so the kit that they sell was inclusive of the whole installation. It's a little pricier though. I hope that this helps. Thanks for watching.
Do you know how far apart the screws are that’s if you are closer to the frame of the bike. how far from did you drill from centrr of both screws on the spacer did you drill
Thanks for watching. I had just filmed measuring those pieces for a different experimental torque converter installation, and it was a flop so far. That kit didn't include the spacers, so I was showing the dimensions. I'll see if I can locate that clip and get that for you.
On Amazon, there’s a spacer plate to do this, but they want an arm and a leg for it. It's like 75 US bucks ..
@@themostlymikeshow All good now. i just sprayed painted downthe holes and then drill holes in a block of wood then used that to then drill holes in to small cuts and then spray painted it all black.
Great work and great idea!
My chain rubs on the back plate how do I fix this?
Thanks for watching. I'm not sure on that. I'm out camping so I can't look at mine to see what's in there. I can't remember if there's spacers or if the sprocket can be loosened then moved on the shaft.
Was my kit supposed to come with spacer blocks? Because mine didn’t
Hi Walker. Is your kit from Go Power Sports? If so, it should have. If it's one of the more economical torque converter kits from Amazon, probably not. They are basically just 1 in square tubing with 5/16 holes drilled through to match the motor mount bolts. Some people say that they aren't required, but I haven't tried not using them on mine. I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshowawesome thank you they sell the risers in an easier kit that’s just 1 whole block that worked great for me. Great video
@@walkerbolinger8311 Glad to hear that it worked out for you. Thanks again for watching!
That was a big hill. Glad your install worked good for you.
Thanks RatoneJR! It was definitely an upgrade that was worth the effort.
wait, you have hand clutch? where it connect?
Thanks for watching Rickardo. I am not sure what you mean. There is no hand clutch on this mini bike. What part of the video are you talking about?
@@themostlymikeshow I see you have left hand handle, usually left hand handle is for clutch, right hand for brake. Or you follow automatic bike rule, both handle is for brake.
@RickardoPandiangan Thanks for watching. This is just how the bike came set up. I never bothered to change it, but really didn't have any difficulty getting used to it this way. However, in the future, I plan to add a front brake, which might end up with adding a foot control for the rear.
Could I fit this on a mini dirt bike 2stroke
Thanks for watching. I'm not sure if it would work. It would depend on the plate that holds the shafts and the bolt patterns to mount it. It may work with some modifications, but wouldn't know for sure unless I tried.
Yh I’ve measured it up it seems to be a bit bulky and big so doesn’t look like it’ll work
What size chain do I need for a ct200u-Ex torque converter!!????
Hi Jonah. The chain is a number 420 chain. I'll put my Amazon link under this comment and in the description shortly. I hope that this helps.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08GFSJ1TQ?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamztoolman1-20&creativeASIN=B08GFSJ1TQ&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1VI3QLF6QNHLE&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m_asin
Here's the short link to the chain:
amzn.to/46NOkWL
According to Comet (originally builder of this torque converter) says on their website that the driver pully bolt is supposed to receive 24-30 foot lbs. of torque… I’ll keep checking mine after every ride lol, because I’m not sure this bolt could handle that much torque foot lbs.
Thanks for watching and commenting Scotty! I agree 24 to 30 foot pounds would be Insanity on that small Bolt. Maybe 24 to 30 inch pounds might not seem unreasonable. I have never had one come loose yet just giving it decent calibrated elbow torque. LOL
The Comet doc that I seen says 20 ft/lb for the driver bolt. I use a 2 1/2" long bolt, a flat washer and a lock washer with blue loctite. But you have to be careful because some crankshafts will not take all the threads of a 2 1/2" long bolt and will bottom out. I think a 2" long bolt is too short.
I should note that the 20 ft/lb is for a 5/16x24 bolt. I'm not sure what the torque spec is for the smaller metric bolt.
Does this work on the mini Baja
Thanks for watching Destructo53. I'm not sure if it fits the mini Baja. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
@@themostlymikeshow no problem I’ll just wing it
ANNNDDDDD just like that, a new follower. My trusty stead is a Coleman BT200X, this winter it gets pimped. A Predator 224, torque convertor, 60 tooth rear sprocket. I'll look at a stage 1 later.
Thanks for watching and the kind words Playing with Fire. Sounds like you have a cool rig.
@@themostlymikeshow its stock now but like yours will be getting the mods that make the difference
I plan on doing lots more mods in some future videos. A company had sent me a torque converter kit that is about eighty bucks, but I had some issues with it where it didn't work. I'm working with them hoping to get them to sell the part needed which would make that conversion right around a hundred bucks total which is under half the price of this one.
@@themostlymikeshow That's awesome, do you mind me asking what was missing ? A friend of mine would sell me some of his stuff (used brass) at a discount was the only type of sponsorship i got. But I've only got 400ish subscribers. l'll be watching for the upgrades, with antic........apatation
What should my mechanic be quoting me as far as hours go for a swap like this
Thanks for watching Bob. I would say that a good mechanic that does this stuff all the time would probably take a maximum of two hours to install this. I'm just a hobbyist, and filmed this installation and it didn't take me very long to get it installed. I didn't time it, but I would say that the biggest consumer of time was cutting that piece out of the frame. Others mentioned in the comments that if you buy the offset motor mount plate, that it is not necessary to cut that piece out. I can't confirm or deny this. I hope this helps.
Hey do you know if the same tc will fit on the similar axis 196cc minibike?
Thanks for watching Zachary. I'm not sure what you mean by similar axis. Is that a brand name? I'm guessing that it probably will, but not sure.
@@themostlymikeshow thanks for the reply. Lowe’s sells a similar mini bike to the Coleman. It’s called axis and looks almost identical except for the color.
Hmm. I'm guessing that it would probably work. If you are lucky enough to have a 3/4" motor shaft, there's way cheaper torque converter kits on Amazon for less than half the price of the ones from Go powersports
What kind of torque convertor is that?
Hi Oliver. I'm not sure what the manufacturer is, but I purchased it from Gopowersports. I have been trying to find something cheaper and make it work, and hopefully make a future video showing that.
Great video, so great I subbed. Thank you.
Awesome Parry! Thank you for watching and the kind words!
@themostlymikeshow2582 Hey, I did this mod exactly how you did it with the 1inch square tubing however you cannot tighten the engine mount bolts very tight because you will bend in the tubing. My engine slides over time until the chain comes off of my bike so what is your solution for the engine sliding?
Thanks for watching Craig. Hmmm, how thick were the walls on your tubing? I used the tubing from the kit from Go Powersports and it didn't bend. I guess that either heavier tubing, or if you could get a stack of washers to fill the void in the hollow of the tubing would allow you to tighten it more without bending the tubing. I would say maybe even stacking washers instead of using tubing may work, but I think the tubing helps keep things lined up better. I hope this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow I did think of those. Thanks for the tips. I think I will put a chain tensioner on mine and see if that helps. I used 1” square tubing from Menards for my build.
Does anyone know if I can install this torque converter onto my ct200u-c
Thanks for watching Davin I would check the Gopowersports.com website and see if it is compatible. Sorry I couldn't help you more.
I’m having a hard time lining up my chain… anyone have tips?
Thanks for watching Allgold. Are you having a tough time with the front sprocket and back sprocket being out of parallel with each other? One way is to loosen the four motor mounting bolts and there should be enough play to get them in line with each other. You can get the rear axle to move a little to fix this as well by adjusting the two chain tensioners accordingly. If you use this method, be sure to adjust the brake cable. Depending on how much you change it, the brake cable will tighten to the point of locking the brake, or loosen it to the point that it won't engage. I hope that this helps.
Great detailed video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching Cateye! Glad you liked.
excellent explanation thank you very much
I appreciate the kind feedback. Thanks for watching!
Looks like it did the trick nice !
Thanks Bill!
How fast does it go
I haven't actually checked the speed but I would guess that it's somewhere between 20 and 25 mph. Most of the upgrades that I am doing are for more torque which is usually less speed. Thanks for watching.
With 60 tooth and TC and stage 2 engine kit I’m only getting tops 15mph top speed but the low end is amazing
Thanks for watching and sharing Martin. I have the 60 tooth, 9 tooth front sprocket, and torque converter. That's about all I get is 15 mph. I got some requests to do a speed build, but for what I like to do this is more than adequate.
@@themostlymikeshow Same
@@themostlymikeshow so update. I drilled out the throttle stop screw because there’s a governor inside of the engine anyways and holy shit does it rip and go fast even with the 60 tooth. I highly recommend
Thanks Martin! I will have to look into that.
On the belt flat side goes toward engine the curve side faces out
Yes, that's right.
What size diameter red heat shrink did u use?
I will have to look. I believe that it was around 3/4 to 1 inch. I'll try to remember to check it out tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for watching.
@@themostlymikeshow Any luck?
Hi. I couldn't find the package for what I used, but I did find the piece that I cut out of the frame. It's just under 11/16" so 3/4 shrink tubing should work. I found this on Amazon which should work for you. I also put it in the description.
amzn.to/3noV5d7
nice work!!!
Thanks Sergeicic! Glad you enjoyed.
Thanks for the info 👍
No problem Teshuvah. Thanks for watching.
Was looking for Converter kit you used do you have a link ?
We have a otherwise stock Coleman bike will this give a little extra pep? Liked and subbed
Hi Carl. Thanks for watching, subscribing, and clicking the thumbs up. Here's the link for the kit that I purchased for this video :
www.gopowersports.com/coleman-200-series-torque-converter-kit/
I had just added it to description as well.
@@themostlymikeshow Installed now its slower than stock? any ideas?the only thing I can think of is to align the rear sprocket to the front....belt facing right way check gone through the housing a few times check
Hi Carl. On mine, I didn't see much of an increase in speed, but it wasn't really slower either. It gained a lot of power on the hills which is what I was trying to achieve. If you're looking to go faster, either making the front sprocket larger, or the rear sprocket smaller will do that.
There's some Hacks out there with the governor on the motor and the throttle which you may have already seen.
I had built mine for more torque on the hills and power from the start more so than making it go fast. I'd get hurt going fast on a ct200u-ex on my bike trails.
I just got an Amazon Storefront which I will make a list of all of the things that I have added to mine in the videos.
I hope that this helps.
I,m searching for where half of my power went its pretty slow it feels as if there isn't a good transfer of the motors power to the tire.I,m going over my work again today and will confer with Go Power plan.I have modded cars before feels like I,m getting the bug again!
That torque converter upgrade help on the high end too, or is high-end about the same?
I think that the high end on level ground is roughly the same, but the speed on the not so steep climbs is way faster. It seems to always run at a more consistent rpm, which is good.
I think if you bypass/remove the Governor you should see higher end speed. Your Governor may be limiting the RPM needed for the CVT to kick in fully.
Thanks Neebles. I bent the tab on the throttle gov, but haven't messed much with the internal governor aside from the zip tie trick. I'm a little bit scared of making the valves float if I remove it completely without adding heavier valve springs. I might do that in a future video. Thanks for watching.
I was hitting 75 without a torque converter by deleting my jack shaft connecting the main chain straight to clutch and a governor delete
Also with custom custom muffler just got my torque converter I’m juiced to see how much fast I’m go I’m just rebuilding my whole a car hit when I was going 75 down the streets hit and ran on me 😂 but thanks good I a pit bike suit and helmet on just walked away with some bruising and a broken finger and a pit bike bent in half
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience Diego. Your machine sounds really impressive! Great to hear that your injuries were minimal and you were able to walk away from the crash. You're welcome to share pictures and your story on The Mostly Mike sHOW Facebook page.
I was under the impression that when you add the spacers under the engine your chain should not hit the brace bar you removed.
Thanks for watching Garrimic3. When I made this video, removing that brace bar was something that I thought I had to do, according to the Go Power Sports video. It is possible that you may not have to cut it out. I can't really say yes or no to that. Sorry if I couldn't be of more help.
@@themostlymikeshow … by removing the bar have experienced any problems with the frame? Such as any weakness?
Nope, no problems at all. I questioned that myself, and I read somewhere that the only purpose for that bar was to support the chain guard, which I eliminated completely before I decided to do this upgrade.
I would definitely recommend to either wear footwear without laces if you run without guards. I don't always practice what I preach, but please be careful.
@@themostlymikeshow You as well. Thank You
Ive had so much drama with this install! I went for a cheaper kit but with great reviews. Of course the 6mm shaft bolt is too short! Ugh.
I tried using one of the economical kits that a company offered to send me in exchange for making a review video, and after taking the one that I purchased from Go Power Sports off, I realized that even with buying a 5/8 to 3/4 in shaft adapter, that it was not going to work with my application. I don't know why Coleman does this but they make a 5/8 output shaft on the motor, and it is machined down from 3/4 in almost as if they do not want people to upgrade. I kind of reverse engineered what Go Power Sports has done and made a prototype adapter that would make one of these economical $79 kits work. The company that sent it hasn't answered any of my emails showing pictures of the part. If I could get a company to make me a bunch of these parts, I would definitely get into the business of selling these. The kit that they sent included just about everything needed, and I could either manufacture or purchase to resell the rest, and probably off for these at half the price that go power sports asks for the complete kit.
Most hardware stores should sell that Bolt, or possibly Amazon.
@@themostlymikeshow indeed. The kit was fine but didn't come with a 6mm bolt and the OEM was too short to carry over. I bet a longer 6mm and a few washers will work. Can you confirm the chain and links you need?
The number of the chain is 420, but I am not sure how many links. It's better to be a little bit long if you hold it together and estimate with it on the sprockets than to not have enough. You can pull up a lot of the slop by either moving the motor forward with the little bit of play in the holes, OR by the tensioners on the rear axle.
I got past that last hurdle with a longer M6x50mm bolt. I'm going to take you advice and try to salvage the belt but moving engine mount and rear wheel. Just when I thought I was done with those dame engine mount bolts.
@Odin31b Glad to hear! I hope it all works well for you!
You only have to mess with the muffler if u have ct200u-ex if you have a bt200 you wont have to
I need a cvt for b200r can anyone tell me which one I need please!
Thanks for watching James. I would like to think that if it's the same motor as the Ct200u-ex, which I'm not sure of... This one should work. But I don't know for positive. The guys at Go Powersports should know. Sorry that I am not more help.
@@themostlymikeshowis this one used in the ytubr vid a 196 cc 3/4 drive shaft?
@jameskaralia3110
No, mine has a 5/8" drive shaft.
I have one in mail from omb. This kit is supposed to be just bolt on without cutting the frame
I'm not familiar with omb. Is there a link to their website? I'd like to know how that works. Thanks for watching!
@@themostlymikeshow Its a little more expensive but I thought worth it to keep the frame intact. I hope it is ok
badass!
Thanks Nova. In the next week or so, I will be posting a new torque converter video testing a cheaper alternative to this brand. It's around 1/3 of the price, and I'll be posting a discount code. Thanks for watching.
Quisiera saber que presio sale esesistema
¿Estás preguntando el precio? No hablo bien español.
Creo que fue alrededor de $ 200 dólares estadounidenses.
How long is the 6 mm bolt please
Hi Andy. Are you talking about the Bolt that holds the driver pulley on? I don't recall exactly how long that bolt is, but I believe it was around 20 mm. You definitely do not want to over tighten that one or bottom it out though. If you buy one from the hardware store I would definitely make sure you can turn it by hand all the way in.
If the video shows the bolt clearly you can probably freeze the video and count the threads. I believe it is 6 mm x 1.0 so each thread would be 1 mm
@@themostlymikeshow okay I’ve put this torque converter on and the machine is slower. What did I do!
I think that mine was a little bit slower too, but I knew that to begin with. At my weight, the torque converter is heavier duty, and lowers the gearing to a degree. There's a few options to get your speed back and then some. Your front sprocket is probably 10 or 11 tooth. They change out pretty quickly and easily. A smaller rear sprocket will give you more speed as well. The higher that you make the gear ratio though, comes with a sacrifice of less torque. There's some engine mods that might make it a little faster too. I haven't done any upgrades to my engine on Trail Force One yet. I hope that this helps.
@@themostlymikeshow yes thank you
Ok so the clutch bolt is 10mm, mine was literally missing been riding that way who knows how long. I tried an 8mm from the bike and it fit but I'll buy a 10mm to make sure it holds
Thanks for watching. I am not so sure if it's an 8 mm by 1.25 as far as threads are concerned. If it fits with little play Then 8mm is fine. I think in the video I was just talking a 10 mm wrench for the bolt head size.
@@themostlymikeshow
So mine was 6mm threads, 1inch, with a 10mm head. That's what I got to fit. Really thought the bolt would have been bigger but it wasn't.
@@rye0987 I do recall that the bolt seemed a little undersized, but forces on it must be minimal.
They have an engine plate,so you don't have to remove that bar
I had no idea about that. Thanks!
@@themostlymikeshow welcome.obm wear house has them. Amazon does too but expensive cheaper at obm.
Wow, I didn't know about OMB. I saved them in my favorites. Thanks
They're even located in Pennsylvania, so shipping should be a lot faster too
For 200 bucks you’d think GPS could have made a special 1” Pacman washer with a 6mm hole
Thanks for watching Barn Fresh. I have been looking for a more economical way to get the same results as the GPS one without the 200 dollar price point, but none of the companies want to entertain making the one part that they would need to sell with their torque converter units to make them work with the 5/8" shaft that's on these Coleman engines.
No cutting the bracket on my ct200u
Thanks for watching Brenda. I was told by a few people that cutting that bracket isn't necessary, but I can't confirm or deny that.
Hey bud you’re missing the rear oil cap
Rear oil cap?
Man do you no what the shaft size is on that bike
Hi Wrong Turn. Are you asking what the motor shaft size is?
If so, it's 5/8" they make an adapter from 5/8 to 3/4 for the torque converter.
Thank you my friend just what I needed to no.... im about to get hurt haha
An yes just got the last 3/4 adapter from Amazon she will be mean Oh yes lol
I cannot get that damn 10mm on the backside of the engine off.. I’m trying to use a 13mm wrench with the 10mm impact and that fucker ain’t moving lol
Wow, be careful that you don't snap the head off with that impact. Did you get it off yet?
@@themostlymikeshow got her off
i am watching your video with three girls. The just freaked about your comment abut the rectangle mark on the exhaust “pantie liner shaped mark” they think you're very strange,
Oh, I forgot about that "joke" in there. That video was made a couple years ago. I must have really been scraping the bottom of the barrel for "humor" I suppose. Sorry about that. Thanks for watching.
Aviation snips 😂😂😂
Ha ha! Glad you enjoyed!
That headlight is definitely NOT stock.
Thanks for watching Angry Veteran. The one on Trail Force One is stock. It might appear brighter with color enhancers in my gopro. I started unplugging it in later videos because I felt that the hard light spot was distracting in the videos.
*Dude, If you don't tighten the HELL out of the main shaft bolt you will find the convertor laying in the DIRT in the first few weeks! Also the bolt included is JUNK. Buy a black steel GRADE #8 hard bolt or you will spend the day cursing at your EASY-OUT tool !*
Thanks for watching and the helpful tip John. I'll look into one of those!
@@themostlymikeshow *Groovy!*