Simtec if you’re able to spray it. I haven’t done one though. I suggest you inquire with Texas Toast Guitars or BigDGuitars. They have experience with that.
I have a question and I believe you could answer it for me. I bought a vinyl peel and stick wood wrap. I wrapped it around my wooden desk. Now I would like to seal it. I tried using "Varathane Triple Thick polyurethane 3x clear matte" but it seems to just flake off at the slightest scratch. What can I use to protect the vinyl wrap and prevent scratches and flaking?
Vinyl is plastic, so paint doesn’t like to stick to it. You may have better luck if you apply some adhesion promoter to it first before trying to clear coat it.
Hi Brad. I'm currently building an 11 cu ft subwoofer box out of MDF and I'm thinking of sealing it with Mohawk vinyl sealer. The total surface area of the project is around 36 sq ft. This is the first project I've ever done like this, and I have a few questions. With that size, should I use the spray can vinyl sealer or is it more economical to buy a can and use a sprayer? How much do you think I'll need for two coats? Can I use any type of paint over the vinyl sealer? I was thinking of using black lacquer -- it will be in my home theater space and I want it to look good. Thanks for your great videos!
It would be more economical to use the sprayer if you have one. I’m not entirely sure how much you’ll need. Mdf can be tough especially on the cut edges. Sometimes it takes a bit extra there. It is designed to work with lacquer, so that should be fine.
I have some cabinet doors i'm redoing, ive hit them with a light coat of BIN...there's a TON of grain coming through on it and i'd light to lighten up the grain a bit.. some is pretty deep.
I'm currently working on a guitar neck that I've added custom pearl inlays to, and I've begun engraving the inlays and filling them in. To preserve the engravings, I've been planning to brush a water based poly coat over the fretboard, but I've read that it is best to apply a sealer first in order for the finish to adhere to the pearl. Adding to this, the fretboard is rosewood, and I've read that rosewood typically needs to be prepped and sealed before applying a finish as well. The filler manufacturer suggests vinyl sealer as the best option for pearl on a fretboard, while my google research says that dewaxed shellac is the best option for sealing the rosewood. My question is, would the vinyl sealer work effectively on the rosewood, or would it be best to seal the fretboard using dewaxed shellac?
the vinyl sealer should work fine, but people don’t usually put a finish on rosewood. normally they just solidify the inlays with super glue if it’s a powder fill type inlay.
There is a Quebec-based company called Ardec (ardec.ca/en/) which stocks paints and Behlen products you recommend without duty costs of USA shipments. They had my Behlen paints and vinyl sealer shipped to me in 2 days. Nice. Also bought a full face mask after your comments of cancer in a can. Thanks for saying so...
Hey Brad, I'm interested in buying the Behlen kit to make a Tele, but I'm a bit confused with the vinyl sealer, I thought it was mandatory to spray a primer on before putting on any paint. Will Vinyl sealer do the job Primer is suppose to do?
+A.S.V Essentially, yes. Primer is a bit of a broad term that isn't always used correctly. For wooden surfaces, sealer is generally the proper choice. Some companies call them primers in various circumstances though.
Brad, if I use a vinyl sealer like this on a guitar build, can I still use any other finishing coats, i.e. poly or nitro or whatever, or do I need to be concerned about any bad reactions?
I believe so. The vinyl sealer is often used with nitro. If you let it dry completely, you shouldn't have to worry about reactions. I have used it with lacquer, acrylics, and enamels without ever encountering an issue.
Hi Brad! I've been really enjoying your channel since GGBO last year. Very informative and entertaining. Keep up the good work. Question. So you mentioned about there are so many ways and materials to fill, seal(prime?), paint the guitar body (or wood or any for that matter), and I'm trying to cover your episodes as much as I can , but you mentioned filling the body(wood grain) with compound or spackle or whatever the form is, but before sealing. You skip this part because for the sake of the episode about "Vinyl sealer", not the filling? And I want to fill the body first before sealing the body if I want to do it right? Correct? Thank you !!
If you want a very smooth and even final finish a short you have open grained wood then yes, grain filling first will help. I’ve done a few videos on grain filling.
@@BradAngove thank you for reply! Yes I saw your videos already, thats how I even know the words “grain filling” !! 😆 I’m a newbie guitar builder and try to build one (kit) for my son. I have another question, if you don’t mind me asking? Neck came with the kit seems a little loose, how do you tackle with that? It supposed to be a set neck, but do I want to use screws? Or some other way ? Have you ever done this problem before in your video ? Anyway it would be really awesome if you guide me to the right direction. Thank you so much!
I haven’t done a video on this issue, but there are a couple options. One is to change it to a bolt on. The other is to glue in some veneer into the neck cavity to get a snug fit. It shouldn’t be crazy tight going it. The glue can cause the wood to expand a bit.
Hey Brad, enjoying this series, Thanks. i have a question related to laminate. I am refinishing my first bass and I have unfortunately sanded to deep on a couple of sections and there is now a discolouration on the laminate. I was hoping to do a natural/amber stain.. what can I do to correct the discolouration?
It sounds like you may have just sanded through the sealer in those areas. Sealer, like clear coat, tends to give a slightly darker appearance to the wood. If you want to apply a stain to the wood, you will need to take the sealer off anyway. The stain won't soak into sealed wood. Sanding all of the areas back to that lighter shade may be your best bet. Alternatively, you could just re-seal the guitar, which I'm guessing would even it out back to that slightly darker shade.
Thanks again Brad. Watched a lot of your videos and finally ready to tackle that guitar kit I have wondered how to do. One question I have, your products are on Amazon.com and not on Amazon.ca. I have an account on both and many times amazon.com ship from the US. (during the summer I am based here at home in Toronto Canada). During the winter I order from amazon.com and its local to USA. So wondering if you can supply a link to amazon.ca page so Canadians can get your product recommendations without border costs, which can be high. So far, I copy links to products then order through amazon.ca but you don't get royalties for recommending.
Hi Howard. Thank you for taking the time to ask for the Canadian links. I’m not sure if the behlen products are largely available on the Canadian Amazon, but in many cases they are notably more expensive on there so when people ask about these in Canada I tell them go to Richelieu, which is the only supplier that I am aware of in Canada.
all the cans I see on amazon are "mohawk" but I notice they are behlen. I don't know if it's a side brand or a re-branding or what, but it's not obvious they are behlen unless you look close
@@BradAngove thanks. just established that from their site and was just coming here to followup mention. mohawk is a cooler name and better for them to appeal to people considering spending 2x as much on the color tone stuff. btw www.mohawkconsumerproducts.com/products/guitar/#Guitar%20Repair highlights their guitar repair products, which is very helpful since amazon doesn't direct you to all of them
hi brad..i'm little confused between behlen and mohawk are they same company ? i thought they were different ..they make same exact thing but different names ?
They're part of the same company, so essentially they have various products under each name, but it's all made by the same people. At least that's how I think it works.
I don’t think it would react well to an enamel underneath it. In fact, I’ve generally heard exclusively bad stories about people trying to coat over enamel with pretty much anything. If it’s actual enamel it generally doesn’t require a top coat.
On a guitar body what grit do you sand to before and after the sealer application?
320 and 400 or 600 usually.
I am doing a fabric top guitar. What do you recommend for sealer?
Simtec if you’re able to spray it. I haven’t done one though. I suggest you inquire with Texas Toast Guitars or BigDGuitars. They have experience with that.
Brad, can I use any aerosol paint over the vinyl seal?
It’s designed for lacquer, but every one I’ve tried has been fine.
I have a question and I believe you could answer it for me.
I bought a vinyl peel and stick wood wrap. I wrapped it around my wooden desk. Now I would like to seal it. I tried using "Varathane Triple Thick polyurethane 3x clear matte" but it seems to just flake off at the slightest scratch.
What can I use to protect the vinyl wrap and prevent scratches and flaking?
Vinyl is plastic, so paint doesn’t like to stick to it. You may have better luck if you apply some adhesion promoter to it first before trying to clear coat it.
Brad Thank you for this channel!! Have you ever tried Solarez Grain Filler ??
I haven’t, but I’ve heard good things about it.
Hi Brad. I'm currently building an 11 cu ft subwoofer box out of MDF and I'm thinking of sealing it with Mohawk vinyl sealer. The total surface area of the project is around 36 sq ft. This is the first project I've ever done like this, and I have a few questions.
With that size, should I use the spray can vinyl sealer or is it more economical to buy a can and use a sprayer? How much do you think I'll need for two coats? Can I use any type of paint over the vinyl sealer? I was thinking of using black lacquer -- it will be in my home theater space and I want it to look good.
Thanks for your great videos!
It would be more economical to use the sprayer if you have one. I’m not entirely sure how much you’ll need. Mdf can be tough especially on the cut edges. Sometimes it takes a bit extra there.
It is designed to work with lacquer, so that should be fine.
I have some cabinet doors i'm redoing, ive hit them with a light coat of BIN...there's a TON of grain coming through on it and i'd light to lighten up the grain a bit.. some is pretty deep.
Sand it smooth again. The sealer probably raised the grain. After you sand it the next coat should look better.
I'm currently working on a guitar neck that I've added custom pearl inlays to, and I've begun engraving the inlays and filling them in. To preserve the engravings, I've been planning to brush a water based poly coat over the fretboard, but I've read that it is best to apply a sealer first in order for the finish to adhere to the pearl. Adding to this, the fretboard is rosewood, and I've read that rosewood typically needs to be prepped and sealed before applying a finish as well.
The filler manufacturer suggests vinyl sealer as the best option for pearl on a fretboard, while my google research says that dewaxed shellac is the best option for sealing the rosewood. My question is, would the vinyl sealer work effectively on the rosewood, or would it be best to seal the fretboard using dewaxed shellac?
the vinyl sealer should work fine, but people don’t usually put a finish on rosewood. normally they just solidify the inlays with super glue if it’s a powder fill type inlay.
There is a Quebec-based company called Ardec (ardec.ca/en/) which stocks paints and Behlen products you recommend without duty costs of USA shipments. They had my Behlen paints and vinyl sealer shipped to me in 2 days. Nice. Also bought a full face mask after your comments of cancer in a can. Thanks for saying so...
Hey Brad, I'm interested in buying the Behlen kit to make a Tele, but I'm a bit confused with the vinyl sealer, I thought it was mandatory to spray a primer on before putting on any paint. Will Vinyl sealer do the job Primer is suppose to do?
+A.S.V Essentially, yes. Primer is a bit of a broad term that isn't always used correctly. For wooden surfaces, sealer is generally the proper choice. Some companies call them primers in various circumstances though.
Very nice.
Thank you.
Brad, if I use a vinyl sealer like this on a guitar build, can I still use any other finishing coats, i.e. poly or nitro or whatever, or do I need to be concerned about any bad reactions?
I believe so. The vinyl sealer is often used with nitro. If you let it dry completely, you shouldn't have to worry about reactions. I have used it with lacquer, acrylics, and enamels without ever encountering an issue.
Hi Brad! I've been really enjoying your channel since GGBO last year. Very informative and entertaining. Keep up the good work. Question. So you mentioned about there are so many ways and materials to fill, seal(prime?), paint the guitar body (or wood or any for that matter), and I'm trying to cover your episodes as much as I can , but you mentioned filling the body(wood grain) with compound or spackle or whatever the form is, but before sealing. You skip this part because for the sake of the episode about "Vinyl sealer", not the filling? And I want to fill the body first before sealing the body if I want to do it right? Correct? Thank you !!
If you want a very smooth and even final finish a short you have open grained wood then yes, grain filling first will help. I’ve done a few videos on grain filling.
@@BradAngove thank you for reply! Yes I saw your videos already, thats how I even know the words “grain filling” !! 😆 I’m a newbie guitar builder and try to build one (kit) for my son. I have another question, if you don’t mind me asking? Neck came with the kit seems a little loose, how do you tackle with that? It supposed to be a set neck, but do I want to use screws? Or some other way ? Have you ever done this problem before in your video ? Anyway it would be really awesome if you guide me to the right direction. Thank you so much!
I haven’t done a video on this issue, but there are a couple options. One is to change it to a bolt on. The other is to glue in some veneer into the neck cavity to get a snug fit.
It shouldn’t be crazy tight going it. The glue can cause the wood to expand a bit.
whoa it totally disappeared then reappeared out of thin air! 0-0
Hey Brad, enjoying this series, Thanks. i have a question related to laminate. I am refinishing my first bass and I have unfortunately sanded to deep on a couple of sections and there is now a discolouration on the laminate. I was hoping to do a natural/amber stain.. what can I do to correct the discolouration?
Is the discoloured area lighter than the rest of it?
Yes, maybe two shades lighter.
It sounds like you may have just sanded through the sealer in those areas. Sealer, like clear coat, tends to give a slightly darker appearance to the wood. If you want to apply a stain to the wood, you will need to take the sealer off anyway. The stain won't soak into sealed wood. Sanding all of the areas back to that lighter shade may be your best bet.
Alternatively, you could just re-seal the guitar, which I'm guessing would even it out back to that slightly darker shade.
Thanks, Brad. Always helpful - it's appreciated.
Glad to be of service. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks again Brad. Watched a lot of your videos and finally ready to tackle that guitar kit I have wondered how to do. One question I have, your products are on Amazon.com and not on Amazon.ca. I have an account on both and many times amazon.com ship from the US. (during the summer I am based here at home in Toronto Canada). During the winter I order from amazon.com and its local to USA. So wondering if you can supply a link to amazon.ca page so Canadians can get your product recommendations without border costs, which can be high. So far, I copy links to products then order through amazon.ca but you don't get royalties for recommending.
Hi Howard. Thank you for taking the time to ask for the Canadian links. I’m not sure if the behlen products are largely available on the Canadian Amazon, but in many cases they are notably more expensive on there so when people ask about these in Canada I tell them go to Richelieu, which is the only supplier that I am aware of in Canada.
all the cans I see on amazon are "mohawk" but I notice they are behlen. I don't know if it's a side brand or a re-branding or what, but it's not obvious they are behlen unless you look close
Behlen and Mohawk were affiliated and now Behlen has been discontinued and their products are being made under the Mohawk brand.
@@BradAngove thanks. just established that from their site and was just coming here to followup mention. mohawk is a cooler name and better for them to appeal to people considering spending 2x as much on the color tone stuff. btw www.mohawkconsumerproducts.com/products/guitar/#Guitar%20Repair highlights their guitar repair products, which is very helpful since amazon doesn't direct you to all of them
hi brad..i'm little confused between behlen and mohawk are they same company ? i thought they were different ..they make same exact thing but different names ?
They're part of the same company, so essentially they have various products under each name, but it's all made by the same people. At least that's how I think it works.
hahahahah smells like immediate cancer! XD \m/
Yup, it smells gross.
@@BradAngove There are specially trained dog that can actually smell cancer in patients.Could i use this stuff over an enamel (Car)paint?
I don’t think it would react well to an enamel underneath it. In fact, I’ve generally heard exclusively bad stories about people trying to coat over enamel with pretty much anything. If it’s actual enamel it generally doesn’t require a top coat.