I changed my oil today using the transfer pump for the first time. What a difference! It made the job so easy and clean. I’m spoiled now, I don’t think I’ll ever go back to the old way. I feel sorry for people who have vehicles where this isn’t an option.
I also did mine this way recently. Admittedly, I used a 12V electric pump and not a vacuum pump like yours but I also got it to gurgle so assume the pump was effective enough. When I was done, curiosity got the better of me so I disconnected the plastic drain plug at the back of the sump just to confirm all oil was out and I managed to get about another litre to drain. What I didn’t do was measure how much came out by suction as would’ve had to decant into 1L measuring jugs to do so. I still think suction method is good for convenience and more regular oil changes so I’ll be treating myself to a 10L vacuum pump for that reason soon! However, I would also recommend doing sump plug method at least every other change to be sure all is out. Draining into a clean oil pan is also good practice as you can swab the pan with a magnet once emptied for any swarf, which would give early warning of a bigger problem. Also, if any ‘engine flush’ products are used then I would definitely use sump method. Either way, another great video Sam and your style certainly gives others more confidence to do basic maintenance and even some of the more complicated stuff so hats off to you sir!
As always, very clear video and I like the DIY instructions and no nonsense home video edit. I think I got my TDV8 4.4 around the same time as yours and following ever since. Changed all fluids, incl. gearbox flush. And it’s been the most perfect Range Rover I’ve owned to date, after P38 4.6 thor, L322 4.4 BMW, L322 TD6 (over 550k km). Great machines. Looking forward to the brake change video. Front disks done here, rear to do (without Gap tool).
Got a Disco 4 and I do my oil changes using a pump just like this. So effortless, near zero mess and quick! The only question draining it via the sump plug if it gets more out. From what I understand the pipe sits very low in the sump so you should get almost of it out.
if you look at the 4.4 sump, it has a deep well in the front to centre area, where the suction tube pulls from, right at the bottom, and another smaller sump area at back, where the rear drain pipe can be emptied.. so draining either way leaves some oil in sump, but suction method empties more. but, both, drains ALL
Good video Sam, nice to see engines being well looked after with shorter oil change intervals.I've always considered it good practice to lube the oil filter o ring with a finger full of engine oil when replacing the o ring. It helps to prevent the o ring tearing when tightening up the casing. no criticism, but thought I ought to mention it.
The Draper Expert 10L has a lot longer pipe to reach the sump tube. Like you I use 8.5L and top up little by little until it’s 2 notches above midway level when cold. Check 20min after shut down of hot engine. I’ve seen them overfilled many times at this stage.
I did all my brakes with Brembo replacements, also from Autodoc. Don't forget to do the bedding in procedure for the parking brake, or it'll not work. Also, is it really still the cheapest 4.4TDV8? I've not looked at prices, and just curious.
Just did oil change with same suction pump, pretty easy job. Sam great video keep doing them. Im going to change diff oils and transfer box tomorrow then a bit more bits to get my 4.4 to the level im happy with...
Purring like a kitten, amazing how much an engine appreciates fresh oil. Loving the videos Sam, it’s a lovely Saturday morning in County Tyrone, if the good weather extends south I hope you’re getting stuck into the brakes on that P38 and getting some lovely fresh tyres on there 😉 all the best!
Just done my first oil change on my 2011 4.4 tdv8 and it's an absolute breeze doing it with the suction pump! Why can't you do this with all cars??? Or can you....? As I recently discovered mine had had the dpf removed, I went for 5w40 oil and am adopting the 'cheap and often' route as this is what we did with all my cars when I had my airport transfers business and we easily got 300k from them. I also discovered there was only about 6 litres of oil in the sump - at least that's how much I sucked out (oooh er missus!) Anyone any idea at what level the oil warning light should come on in a 4.4 tdv8?? Brilliant video Sam - been a great help.
Many thanks for the video Sam. I wonder if you measured the exact oil quantity out as other vacuum extractions I have seen on RUclips seem to leave quite a lot of old oil in the sump. Yours Chris.
Yes this causes me quandary, I use my LR D4 to travel to Spain towing my big caravan, should I put 20/40 as said by Christian and Vera as it gets very hot ?
Sam, when you set that racket down on the concrete, did it get a chip! Wow, that is big! Curious on the clean up of the transfer pump. Do you recommend running some soapy water through that after the job is done? Great video!
🤣 it’s a beast! Well overkill for this job but you gotta use what you’ve got! I generally squirt a bit of brake cleaner / degreaser into the pump reservoir, slosh it around a bit and then pump it through. No need for it to be perfectly clean.
If you want a diesel, I can highly recommend the 4.4 TDV8 I have from 2010-12. Petrol wise, the 4.4 Jag V8 or the 4.2 S/c Jag V8 (both 2006-2009) are very good. I’d avoid the Td6 due to gearbox issues.
With the miles I'd be tempted to up viscosity to 5w40 just to make up for tolerance wear, among other reasons such as additive rules that change for a 40 weight. Some will nod, others will be triggered lol.
I may do so next time, it has always made sense to me on a basic level. On the other hand, JLR specified 5w30 for a reason, so why change it? But on the third hand 🤚, they also probably didn’t expect or care if people were still using them north of 200k miles 🤷
@@SamsMotors I find modern vehicle engineers are directed generate maintenance schedules etc to a warranty, a price point and to appear low maint rather than what they'd like. Hence why you as Mech Eng know to opt to go early ;) . Rather than go be ACEA or API grades I usually hunt for a manufacturer's own specific code eg VW507.00 , MB229.52 etc I'm not familiar with JLR's ones but I bet you'll find products across a range of viscosities that meet/ are certified to their specific called for spec even if 5w30 was the original design intent viscosity. Also the SAE viscosity bands are actually kind of vast , let's remember not all 5w30 achieve equal centistokes at 100C!
Considering it’s been serviced by Land Rover its whole life, this is exactly how it will have been serviced for all 210k miles and it’s still on its original turbos… any other crazy theories? 😂
@@SamsMotors Crazy theory? There is two sump plugs, one to drain the main sump, another at the back to drain the turbo circuit. I you don't drain the turbo drain you leave approx a liter of dirty oil to mix with your new clean oil. An important part of an oil change on my 3.6 tdv8 has been to drain both plugs. I'm sorry if you find this info insulting and am confused as to why you think this is a crazy theory.
@@paulbalsillie3645 apologies, I was responding to Blair above about “swarf” building up which makes no sense. Totally aware that there is some oil remaining after a suction change 👍
@@SamsMotors Hi Sam, sorry I still haven't made my point very well. I wasn't talking about the efficiency between sucking or draining. I was concerned about the fact that there is two drain plugs in the sump. One for the main sump drain and another at the back of the sump, which drains the oil in the turbos and cross over pipe. Draining from the normal side sump plug, or sucking it out of the dip stick hole won't drain the oil in this turbo circuit. So without physically draining the turbo circuit, you are leaving something like a liter of dirty oil to mix with your new clean oil. Paul.
One important thing in oil filter, when you remove it there is a membrane valve that you have to check before putting back oil filter, if this valve change its place then you have a problem, oil drain can damage your engine. It is very important to check metal ring with rubber valve before you put back oil filter. See example on this video ruclips.net/video/6TbZDJsD3uI/видео.html
Hi, always best to go with the OEM equipment which for this car is MANN. You can see me replace the filter here: ruclips.net/video/3-Tpdfnf3Lc/видео.html
This sounds bad sam ha its for towing im looking for 1 iv looked at discoverys but u dont know when that 3lt is going to blow up i cant understand why landrover didnt drop the ford lion engine
Jesus wept you definitely used an over kill size socket and ratchet set!!! Can buy oil housing set in 3/8 drive but guess if there are other uses for the killer set that make sense to use that as you had it.
I changed my oil today using the transfer pump for the first time. What a difference! It made the job so easy and clean. I’m spoiled now, I don’t think I’ll ever go back to the old way. I feel sorry for people who have vehicles where this isn’t an option.
I also did mine this way recently. Admittedly, I used a 12V electric pump and not a vacuum pump like yours but I also got it to gurgle so assume the pump was effective enough. When I was done, curiosity got the better of me so I disconnected the plastic drain plug at the back of the sump just to confirm all oil was out and I managed to get about another litre to drain. What I didn’t do was measure how much came out by suction as would’ve had to decant into 1L measuring jugs to do so. I still think suction method is good for convenience and more regular oil changes so I’ll be treating myself to a 10L vacuum pump for that reason soon! However, I would also recommend doing sump plug method at least every other change to be sure all is out. Draining into a clean oil pan is also good practice as you can swab the pan with a magnet once emptied for any swarf, which would give early warning of a bigger problem. Also, if any ‘engine flush’ products are used then I would definitely use sump method.
Either way, another great video Sam and your style certainly gives others more confidence to do basic maintenance and even some of the more complicated stuff so hats off to you sir!
As always, very clear video and I like the DIY instructions and no nonsense home video edit. I think I got my TDV8 4.4 around the same time as yours and following ever since. Changed all fluids, incl. gearbox flush. And it’s been the most perfect Range Rover I’ve owned to date, after P38 4.6 thor, L322 4.4 BMW, L322 TD6 (over 550k km). Great machines. Looking forward to the brake change video. Front disks done here, rear to do (without Gap tool).
Got a Disco 4 and I do my oil changes using a pump just like this. So effortless, near zero mess and quick! The only question draining it via the sump plug if it gets more out. From what I understand the pipe sits very low in the sump so you should get almost of it out.
if you look at the 4.4 sump, it has a deep well in the front to centre area, where the suction tube pulls from, right at the bottom, and another smaller sump area at back, where the rear drain pipe can be emptied.. so draining either way leaves some oil in sump, but suction method empties more. but, both, drains ALL
Good video Sam, nice to see engines being well looked after with shorter oil change intervals.I've always considered it good practice to lube the oil filter o ring with a finger full of engine oil when replacing the o ring. It helps to prevent the o ring tearing when tightening up the casing. no criticism, but thought I ought to mention it.
The Draper Expert 10L has a lot longer pipe to reach the sump tube. Like you I use 8.5L and top up little by little until it’s 2 notches above midway level when cold. Check 20min after shut down of hot engine. I’ve seen them overfilled many times at this stage.
Great oil change on the range rover , the suction pump makes it effortless.
Great video 👍 👍
I did all my brakes with Brembo replacements, also from Autodoc. Don't forget to do the bedding in procedure for the parking brake, or it'll not work. Also, is it really still the cheapest 4.4TDV8? I've not looked at prices, and just curious.
Probably not - but that’s sort of it’s unofficial name now.
Just did oil change with same suction pump, pretty easy job. Sam great video keep doing them. Im going to change diff oils and transfer box tomorrow then a bit more bits to get my 4.4 to the level im happy with...
Happy days. I’ve got a video up from when I did my diffs/transfer if you need to reference it. Enjoy!
Useful video Sam. Did my first oil and filter change at the weekend with a suction pump. So easy.🤟
Purring like a kitten, amazing how much an engine appreciates fresh oil. Loving the videos Sam, it’s a lovely Saturday morning in County Tyrone, if the good weather extends south I hope you’re getting stuck into the brakes on that P38 and getting some lovely fresh tyres on there 😉 all the best!
Just done my first oil change on my 2011 4.4 tdv8 and it's an absolute breeze doing it with the suction pump! Why can't you do this with all cars??? Or can you....?
As I recently discovered mine had had the dpf removed, I went for 5w40 oil and am adopting the 'cheap and often' route as this is what we did with all my cars when I had my airport transfers business and we easily got 300k from them.
I also discovered there was only about 6 litres of oil in the sump - at least that's how much I sucked out (oooh er missus!) Anyone any idea at what level the oil warning light should come on in a 4.4 tdv8??
Brilliant video Sam - been a great help.
didn’t realise there was a vacuum sump port on this engine
Yes, it’s the Land Rover recommended oil service method.
Many thanks for the video Sam. I wonder if you measured the exact oil quantity out as other vacuum extractions I have seen on RUclips seem to leave quite a lot of old oil in the sump. Yours Chris.
Hi Sam. You mentioned that the suction pump is 10 ltr. Is it a 10ltr or 9 ltr as I can only see 9ltr ones on Amazon.
Regards
Peter
Great work , I think you need a torque wrench for precise tightening, I know a RUclips couple that don’t use w30 oil
Yes this causes me quandary, I use my LR D4 to travel to Spain towing my big caravan, should I put 20/40 as said by Christian and Vera as it gets very hot ?
Good old Autodoc 😊.
I must admit I prefer to take the bung out.
Another good video and the Range Rover looking good 🚘🚙🚗👍👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I prefer to change the oil every 5000 kilometers the old way... Happy Land Rovering!
5000 k are you mad or mental ? No need for such a short interval...modern oil is amazing stuff..10k would be considered a short interval.
Sam, when you set that racket down on the concrete, did it get a chip! Wow, that is big! Curious on the clean up of the transfer pump. Do you recommend running some soapy water through that after the job is done? Great video!
🤣 it’s a beast! Well overkill for this job but you gotta use what you’ve got!
I generally squirt a bit of brake cleaner / degreaser into the pump reservoir, slosh it around a bit and then pump it through. No need for it to be perfectly clean.
Sam, I like your informative direct content. You have encouraged me to get a L322. Is the model, year, etc the best to get?
If you want a diesel, I can highly recommend the 4.4 TDV8 I have from 2010-12.
Petrol wise, the 4.4 Jag V8 or the 4.2 S/c Jag V8 (both 2006-2009) are very good. I’d avoid the Td6 due to gearbox issues.
@@SamsMotors thanks, great stuff. Love your work.
@@RenAndShrimpy Thanks! Enjoy your RR journey!
Does yours have the turbo oil drain kit? Mine needs that drained when the oil is changed. I think the turbo oil drain was a factory refit.
How many miles between oil changes?
Another great vid, vehicle is looking tip-top. 👌
Cheers, I try to look after my beastie.
With the miles I'd be tempted to up viscosity to 5w40 just to make up for tolerance wear, among other reasons such as additive rules that change for a 40 weight.
Some will nod, others will be triggered lol.
I may do so next time, it has always made sense to me on a basic level. On the other hand, JLR specified 5w30 for a reason, so why change it? But on the third hand 🤚, they also probably didn’t expect or care if people were still using them north of 200k miles 🤷
@@SamsMotors I find modern vehicle engineers are directed generate maintenance schedules etc to a warranty, a price point and to appear low maint rather than what they'd like. Hence why you as Mech Eng know to opt to go early ;) .
Rather than go be ACEA or API grades I usually hunt for a manufacturer's own specific code eg VW507.00 , MB229.52 etc I'm not familiar with JLR's ones but I bet you'll find products across a range of viscosities that meet/ are certified to their specific called for spec even if 5w30 was the original design intent viscosity.
Also the SAE viscosity bands are actually kind of vast , let's remember not all 5w30 achieve equal centistokes at 100C!
So when you sucked up the oil was it cold or hot? Which is best for flow rate etc?
Warm, it had been for a run approx 20 mins before filming. Best to do it warm to help it flow a bit easier
More P38 content! When is the next one?
In the works! The next vid uploaded is P38 work 🙂
@@SamsMotors Looking forward to that!
Auto doc fantastic
I personally wouldn't trust Valvoline ,prefer using Mobil 1 or LIQUI MOLY if the Mobil isn't available at the time
Superb once again..
Thank you! Cheers!
@@SamsMotors Just been on to Autodoc and managed to get an alternator for my Shogun at a fab price and even free delivery with it..
Surely Without draining from the turbo system drain plug at the back of the sump, you are leaving a liter of dirty oil in the turbo circuit.
Considering it’s been serviced by Land Rover its whole life, this is exactly how it will have been serviced for all 210k miles and it’s still on its original turbos… any other crazy theories? 😂
@@SamsMotors Crazy theory? There is two sump plugs, one to drain the main sump, another at the back to drain the turbo circuit. I you don't drain the turbo drain you leave approx a liter of dirty oil to mix with your new clean oil. An important part of an oil change on my 3.6 tdv8 has been to drain both plugs. I'm sorry if you find this info insulting and am confused as to why you think this is a crazy theory.
@@paulbalsillie3645 apologies, I was responding to Blair above about “swarf” building up which makes no sense. Totally aware that there is some oil remaining after a suction change 👍
@@SamsMotors Hi Sam, sorry I still haven't made my point very well. I wasn't talking about the efficiency between sucking or draining. I was concerned about the fact that there is two drain plugs in the sump. One for the main sump drain and another at the back of the sump, which drains the oil in the turbos and cross over pipe. Draining from the normal side sump plug, or sucking it out of the dip stick hole won't drain the oil in this turbo circuit. So without physically draining the turbo circuit, you are leaving something like a liter of dirty oil to mix with your new clean oil. Paul.
One important thing in oil filter, when you remove it there is a membrane valve that you have to check before putting back oil filter, if this valve change its place then you have a problem, oil drain can damage your engine. It is very important to check metal ring with rubber valve before you put back oil filter.
See example on this video ruclips.net/video/6TbZDJsD3uI/видео.html
How long do you go between oil changes?
I target 8000 miles but this was closer to 9.
Bonjour quelle marque de filtre a gasoil vous conseiller ?
Hi, always best to go with the OEM equipment which for this car is MANN. You can see me replace the filter here: ruclips.net/video/3-Tpdfnf3Lc/видео.html
Pro tip - don't rest the socket set on top of those water pipes, the fittings are seriously brittle.
11:02 something drops from bottom of the Range?
I just wish I knew how to have mph speedo display like yours can anyone help
I responded to your first comment already, you need to modify the CCF file using an IID tool to get the digital speedo.
Do the 4.4 engine have the same crank problems the 3ltr engine has
No, major engine problems are fairly unheard of on these.
@@SamsMotors the 3ltr scares me there not cheap here in ireland and the 4.4 is not common here cause the road tax would give u a heart attack
@@noelcahill6707 I wouldn’t touch a 3.0 personally. The 4.4 is an absolute titan though.
This sounds bad sam ha its for towing im looking for 1 iv looked at discoverys but u dont know when that 3lt is going to blow up i cant understand why landrover didnt drop the ford lion engine
@@noelcahill6707 a TDV8 Disco would be a mean machine - something I’d love to have a go at building myself one day!
Excuse me sir, we need more p38 videos
On the way!
@@SamsMotors yes!!!
Jesus wept you definitely used an over kill size socket and ratchet set!!! Can buy oil housing set in 3/8 drive but guess if there are other uses for the killer set that make sense to use that as you had it.
Use what ya got! 🤷♂️😂
I’ll look into the oil housing set though, always keen to buy more tools!
First!