Glad to have fresh oil throughout the Rangie now. I was impressed by how quick and easy the oil extractor pump (amzn.to/3tRcE8C) made the oil change - but what do you guys reckon? Are you suckers or drainers?
I’m keen to know if the copper pipe will fit down the extraction tube and, if yes, does it reach the bottom? I’m wondering whether a pipe down the tube is more likely to really suck out the dregs, or whether you would actually get more out with a seal at the top of the tube and effectively creating such a good vacuum that the dregs get pulled up and out the tube? I’m such a perfectionist when it comes to these things but my L322 deserves it! 🤣
Is there not 2 drain plugs like on the 3.6? Rearmost one for small reservoir for turbo can get clogged if not drained, would the vacuum method cover this?
Just did my 300,000 mile service on my 2006. Original engine, tranny, and in tact air suspension. Keep fixing it it’ll keep going. Never sucked it once.
@@frodrguez Well you have the best engine that Land Rover has ever made in my opinion. Just keep good fluids all around (tranny included) and i attribute the long life of the engine partly to the regular use of synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer. I just hit 313,000 m. Keep it going my friend!
The Oil Filter O ring - or seal ring that you throw away from the filter, just cut them, in case they end up in the ocean as such a lot of junk does or in land fill where animals/birds can get them stuck on their necks.
That damage has been done unfortunately granded we do not want to add but the damage has been done and everyone and everything will suffer for years to come but its great that your out cleaning up filling bags doing your bit to help the birds fish excetra 😮
You certainly like to live dangerously with those gallon cans to drain oil into! I use an old washing up bowl, a much easier target to hit, and you can also let the drain plug drop in there as well, you really need a 4 poster to do this job, but then it would not be an adventure, at least it was not snowing, or 45 degs! Many thanks for posting this, it is inspirational. Chris B.
A tip for draining the oil into a gallon plastic can. lay the can on its side and cut a large square hole in the top side . This will give you a much larger target to get the oil into, just remember to refit the lid before use . You can then decant through the lid and into another container for disposal and keep your new oil drain receptacle in your tool kit for next time .
Sam, thank you SOOOO much for the comment about the noise at the front of the engine. I just bought my L322 about a month ago, and the other night I noticed it making the same noise. So glad to hear others have it, and that it’s not a cause for concern! I wish we had the 4.4’s over here in the US, but regardless it’s a relevant and great video for me!
To save all the time wasted measuring the proper amount of oil before filling leave you knowing that you have filled the engine this is great time saving and the only issue is trust in your ability it's fine once the oil amount is right so don't dubble check .😊
You should feed one of the thinner pipes down through the tube into the bottom of the sump then link that to the thicker pipe that attaches to the pump. That's why they seem short, you link them together.
You beat me to it, I've been a sucker for 5 years now 😂 it works perfectly. As you said, just feed a smaller tube in untill it touches the sump plug, and then attach another tube. Once it can't draw anymore oil I then leave it overnight and do it again the next morning. This will get the last of the oil out, normally another litre. I also don't know what the copper pipe is for 🤔 Any ideas ?
Was going to say the same thing. Watched another video and the sucking method with the pipe fed down to the sump got all but a few drips of oil out. The risk of leaving sludge in the sump is minimal.
Even the thinnest one doesn’t fit properly down the tube unfortunately, I tried forcing it but no good, I’m guessing that this wasn’t put in as a dipstick tube and an actual drain tube for this purpose and is at the bottom on the sump…
Hi. Sorry for my english if its sometime wrong. Its self-learned. I also make big service by my self couple monts ago, including brake fluid and power steering fluid. I make engine wash also, using cheap oil and filter. Extract and drain old oil, change filter and refill about 6 liters of sheap oil. Start the engine for about 30 seconds. And then change oil again and put new filter also. Now you have really nice and clean oil inside. But. Under the engine, there is also small oil pan (turbine drain) with cup. Did you not open this cup and didnt drain oil from there? Its very easy to change brake fluid on this car, even dont need to remove wheels. Just need to assist by pushing brake pedal, you know what I mean. Power steering. Need to lift up both front wheels. Then extract old oil from the tank first. Next, need to disconnect back-hose from the tank and extend it with some another, longer hose to reach in some canister. Also need to close hole on tank where you take hose off. And then fill up the tank with new fluid. Ignition on (to unlock steering wheel). Then you need to assist to turn the wheels compleatley to the left and to the right couple times. During turning steering wheel old oil coming out. You need to watch oil tank not going empty same time, to avoid getting air in system. When outgoing oil looks clean, its enough. Connect hose back to tank and make correct fluid level. Done. Additionaly, I remove the tank and wash it inside. There is a small filter inside the tank, its good to make it clean as well. I make also transmission fluid full change (in specialized service of course).
Hi sam. I just did my first oil and filter change in my RR thanks to you! Bought the pump and a 36mm socket. Just a note. When I took the old filter out it had an insert in the centre (maybe no drain valve?) I reused it into the new filter. Thanks again. Great useful videos
That oil transfer pump may just be the coolest thing I ever saw. The last oil change I did was a drain and it made a horrible mess. I will investigate, but does anyone know if that should still work on ‘11 with 5.0 gas motor? Thanks for the video Sam. Your glamorous assistant did a great job too!
Hey Jerry, thanks for the comment. Yes it will work fine with your 5.0 - I believe the suction pipe is located inside the filler cap on your engine. There's a link in the description to Amazon UK but I guess there will be something similar in the US too. Cheers!
Awesome, one more question. For that oil transfer pump as well as the small pump you used for the other fluids. Is there a recommended way to clean those for future uses?
@@jerrygreene7139 The best way I have found is to squirt a good amount of brake cleaner in (or any degreaser I guess), give it a good shake. In the case of the extractor, just pour out the degreaser but you can pump it through the transfer pump to clean the pipe out.
The fact your good lady so readily agreed to a 4-post ramp means she's very much a keeper!!! 😀 Another good video Sam. Will be interested to see if you note an improvement in mpg now you've swapped all fluids out for fresh stuff.
Great content Sam, we've just upgraded from a 2005 S/C L322 to a 4.4 TDV8. Enjoying all your vids, may have to invest in one of those oil drain pumps, like you I prefer to change much more frequently than the factory schedule. Good work, keep it up 👍
Hi Sam, I subbed to you when I was looking at buying a High milage 3.6 V8. I gambled and although it’s not perfect. It’s done 207k so just needs love! Good work on yours!
You can hand prime the fuel filter housing so it stop the engine cranking and air locks which will clear but can run the battery down if their not great
Great vid as per usual! The official oil filter is manufactured by Mann, I got one last week for another ‘11 4.4 that I’m replacing the turbo on. The sucker works pretty well on these, also works great on the sdv6/ingenium engines, only issue with using the sucker on the tdv8 is your not draining the turbos which is done via the second drain plug at the rear of the engine, it’s a bit of a pain in the ass on the l322 as the plug is about 1.5 inches from the subframe! Grand and handy on the l320 sport tdv8 as there is no subframe in the way! Back in the dealership I used to always use the oil vac as we were only allowed 1 hour ish for a small service so by the time you had undershieds, sump plug out etc you would be gone way over time compared to having oil vac on while removing the oil filter/topping up screen wash etc!
@@SamsMotors check out a video on youtube somewhere where someone tears down the oil cooler - as it is attached to the filter housing - I wonder if this a complete overhaul kit and these o rings cure the leaks you were looking for?
Rotation of the tyres is also great for saving Money and keeping the car steering straight front tyres take all the brake weights so switch the back to the front even wear ❤
Sam, yet another fantastic video - really informative and helping us all to keep our L322s in fine health and on the road. It would be great if you would do one on a full brake fluid change and also a coolant change as the last of the routine service jobs! Keep up the fantastic work!!
Also really keen to hear how you got on with your hard suspension niggle. Mine had the opposite problem - thought the active dynamics weren’t stiffening up enough so too much roll in corners. I used the IID tool to recalibrate the dampers and it’s definitely improved things. Have you tried that yet?
@@range_anxiety Sadly it's still an issue, I have a few things still to try before I totally give up with it though! Yes I've done the calibration a few times without any noticeable change :(
Only question on using the pump method is the risk of leaving the sludge at the bottom of the sump. Old school flushing and removing the sump plug, although time consuming, just feels better to me.
Great video as usual Sam. Did my transmission yesterday on a gravel drive so am very much sharing in your pain! Just a word to the wise - don't know if the 8 speed ZF box has the same sleeve for the electrics as the 6 speed but I was sent a Britpart replacement as part of a kit (including genuine ZF oil) - the bloody o' rings were definitely oversized and I couldn't get it to seat at all (after a good hour of struggling!) Tried the old one and it went straight in so it wasn't just me being a dick!. Took the o rings off the old one and did a comparison and the new ones were significantly bigger. Thankfully I have a box full of various o rings so found some that worked. Was at the point of wishing I hadn't bothered. Date on the original sump was 2007 so very glad I did the job. Transfer box and diffs is my next job. Cheers
Great video Sam. Used all the links, ordered the parts and oil vacuum pump. serviced the Westminster this afternoon “minus the bacon sandwich” ;) running like a dream.
If you save another empty screenwash bottle and leave the lid on you can cut a large square hole out the biggest side and make a free drain pan for diff etc. Easily emptied into another bottle for disposal.
Just sat through this video, knowing that I have mine to do. Have had the parts for a while, just waiting for better weather. I think it’s Mann filters that are oem.
Good One Sam!! Did my L322 service last year borrowed a sucker from local garage, but might invest in one this year! Went with liqui moly oil in mine with their oil additive and ceramic additive. Used Mann filters. Will be doing annual service or 8k similar to you. 👍 Coolant replacement, along with thermostat and water pump and power steering fluid being done in a couple of weeks. Then road trip to Wales for a week😎 when I get back and it's dry need to get another Lanoguard coating applied underneath. Keep it up. 👍 Thanks Sam
Mate that was good timing about the fan cause mine has started making a ticking noise every now and then at start up at the front and wasn't to sure what it was. As for the sucker I would only use it for about 2 oil changes or so then drain as that way you can see if any crap is sitting in the sump.
@samsmotors thank you for doing this video helped me service my 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 85000 miles I sucked oil out drained the turbo oil dump sump all Range Rover parts and filters gonna do the transfer boxes and diff then gearbox service i used comma 5w 30 c1 fully synthetic dpf rated I’ll be changing oil every 3000 miles just to be over ocd thank’s again Sam for your videos
Hi, Sam! Nice to watch so detailed videos. Some tip for the future: Take windscreen washer can and cut huge hole in the side. That's my own experience lol ;) For me car feels smoother and quiter even after washing them :D
Hi Sam! Great video! But, i heard you say that the oilfilters didn't look the same. Made the same observation, there is a plastic thing in the middle that i think you need too move over! Might bee a one way Valve. But i could not find any where to put the two smal o-rings either.... Fredrik
One of the straws in the suction kit as an extender... I think you used the extender to suck the oil. I have the same kit and the bigger one goes onto the smaller ones. HTH.
Just like you Sam I have to scrabble around under my vehicles first time tryed with a drill pump and on my own the inevitable happened bottle went over transfer box oil all in my hair lol brought a pump like yours next time much clearer. 😅 Great vid mate Happy New year to you both and more videos to look forward to in 2023.
Sam. Many thanks for this - a really useful reference video. I will be doing the same on my 4.4 in a couple of weeks and it is so useful to have someone talk through the steps. I will certainly look into the oil suction pump and avoid hot dirty engine oil ending up all over my arms as usual.
Sam, great stuff. Very helpful. Are you planning on changing the coolant at any point? Looks like a faff with a vacuum tool so would love to see it done! 😮
Hi Sam comments on the noise from fan I would check the top idler above the tensioner for end float this is due to the lack of grease in the bearing in the manufacturing. I’ve had two new ones like this and found no grease apart from a smear on the dust seal , I greased my old one noise gone worth checking out if anyone has replaced them make your supplier aware of this .
Thanks, yeah I replaced all my idlers and tensioner back when I did the alternator swap last year. The ticking noise definitely comes from the fan hub, and from everything I've seen is a normal noise during warm up.
Love the content, sadly I didn’t buy the 4.4tdv8 I bought a 3.0 but it was £500 with a suspension fault and near enough full service history so couldn’t give up the chance of buying it especially at £500. Currently getting the suspension sorted and gearbox and engine service and it’s good to go fingers crossed
@@SamsMotors there is a autobiography black edition for sale near me for £800 won’t select 4th and 5th but everything else works, could be a nice easy fix for someone
Do you know the part numbers or sizes of the the diffs and transfer case drain and fill washers please. Going to give it ago myself. You have encouraged me to to buy a range rover (2 days ago) and do all the servicing myself.
Great video as always! Can you PLEASE do a video of the engine and exhaust sounds just generally driving around some hilly countryside? There seems to be a severe lack of 4.4 TDV8 sound on RUclips
I can try and work it into another video... The 4.4 sounds similar to the 3.6 really but quite a bit quieter due to the DPF and soundproofing in the cab. There's not a lot to hear on a standard one!
Sam, great video- as usual. One criticism that I respectfully make.....its so 1970s to get plastered in used lube-oils! Why not try wearing disposable surgical gloves when working on the car?
@Daniel Tait hello Daniel . 1. Used motor oils are carcinogenic. Rub them all over your skin if you like, but it doesn’t make you a real man! 2. Get yourself covered in used oils - everyone will think that you are a real man, NOT! 3.Spread dirty black oil on your face, on your phone, on your white fancy car chair leather. Wipe it over the kitchen door, on the crockery, all around the bathroom- eat your food with black oily hands...that’s what real men do.... is it?
Hey Sam! Thank you for all your videos. I have the same car and I've just followed your advices! Transmission flush, Led lights... I have one question, I couldn't find the answer on the internet for this RR model. How can I reset the "Service Required" message? I have tried by opening the bonnet and the driver's door, ignition ON but engine off, depressing brake and gas for 30 sec and ignition off...IT DOESN'T WORK on 4.4 tdv8 2011! Kind regards Sam, many thanks in advance
I’ve been thinking of getting a Range Rover off and on. Do it yourself service maintenance is an option on these vehicles. So many modern vehicles you are obliged to take to a garage because you can hardly get a fag paper between parts to get at the or they require special tools. For this service the Range Rover looks doable and your demonstration fills me with much confidence that I can handle it. Well done no curse words, which I dare say I’d have had to bleep out if I had been doing the servicing video 😂 Thank you.
Put the pump on a chair , take the pipe from the engine saves the oil in the pipe going back into engine, the pump blows of when it's pumped to max pressure so wait and pump it every few minutes. The pumps r great but every 3rd oil charge take off the sump bung and drain the engine put 2 pints down to push out any crap plus you can check for any metals so you know if theirs anything wearing out this has to be done on second hand 200.000 mile car because you don't know the true history. Plug putting in a liter of diesel and the flushing out the engine twice only using one replacement filter after second flush is brilliant to clean out carbon build up. A can of fuel system cleaner again is great but do remember diesel is the lubricant for all the fuel system 🤔
Hello Sam, How long does it take to replace the diesel/water separator ? Mine has been 180 000 km (10 years) but hasn't been replaced yet! Thank you, I'll looking forward to your reply!
Great guide. Quick question, do you warm the engine up before sucking the oil out, or is the idea to do it when the engine is cold if you are sucking it out?
hi and thanks for the informative video! Very nice!! Regarding oil change, there is no magnet in the bottom pan, and then it is probably important to drain the oil from the bottom so that the bottom sludge and shavings come out? something that is not possible with the suction method?
@@SamsMotors Yes, but no place can I find anything showing how to do it. The «plug» on the pan is not anything I have seen before . . . . and if I break it🙈🙈 Thanks again for your nice and detailed videos, many out there can learn from yours, on how its done😊👍👍👍
@@perhansen7696 there isn't actually a 'plug' as such, it's a plastic quick connector that is actually the bottom end of the suction pipe I used in this video. It comes off pretty easily, just using your hands or a pair of needle nose pliers (carefully) to squeeze the tabs.
HI all my 2011 4.4TDV8 has now covered 250,000 miles, oil change every 6k and she runs very well, only issue I have is if I put anything in the boot the suspension comes up with a fault, but does not go down on any side, remove the weight in the back and no fault is shown?
Hi Sam, just decided to do a service on my L322 after watching this video some time ago. Now it's done I want to clear the "Service Required" notice on the dash. I have an IID Tool (after watching your comparison video) but can't work out how to clear the service notification. Any chance you could give me a heads up on this? Thanks for the great content - keep it coming!! Cheers. Kevin
Sam, the speed of your reply is hugely impressive! I will try that tomorrow, thank you very much. All the best. Kevin PS - it may be more than you want to get involved in but an IID tutorial would be a great additional to your channel in my opinion
Thoughts on the Fumitomo F-106 oil drain valve - or the US version - EZ oil drain valve with a length of tubing attaching come oil change time? If you wanted to go belt and braces - pump from the top AND drain from the sump? Would appear to offer a way of dealing with the "uncontrollable" outpouring albeit a small residual after pumping. The pump is excellent and I'm wondering if on the 3.6 whether you can ease the tube over the dip-stick tube instead of threading the narrow tube down the neck to replicate what happens on the 4.4 with the dedicated pipe?
A valve would seem a decent idea but I don't like how easy it looks to knock that Fumitomo open. Appreciate it's hidden above the undertray etc but I don't think I'd want to trust it not to dump my oil all over the road! Probably a good idea to drain from below once in a while to ensure there aren't any nasties lurking at the bottom of the sump, though saying that the suction tube goes below the bottom 'floor' of the sump on the 4.4. You could certainly suck from the dipstick tube but unsure how close to the bottom of the sump it enters so it might leave a good quantity of oil in there.
When I get my purchase home I will try it and let you know. It has a height sensor failure on the rear left. Should be a simple fix when the part arrives. Height sensors said to be good for a million actuations which coincidentally kicked in on the morning I was due to take receipt of the vehicle! I ordered the tap - I will feedback on due course. I’ll make sure I carry oil and a spare drain plug and washer in the car!
@@SamsMotors P0125, insufficient coolant temp. It basically doesn't blow warm air into the cabin. Ive had it into Lexus dealer and local independents, replaced various sensors and still no further forward sadly.
Sam. I have been reading up about engine oil. Do you think there are any special considerations for high mileage FFRRs other than more frequent changes? Would a premium oil be that much better than a plain spec version? Do you think there is any merit at all in the additives eg molybdenum to reduce friction? I understand there’s a filter mechanism at the base of the sump - worth taking the sump off for a thorough clean out every three changes perhaps? Tribology is interesting.
Hey Russell, another good question, we need to get you on the next live stream 🤣 Someone on here suggested perhaps moving to a heavier weight of engine oil might be a good idea, considering the not insignificant mileage on my engine. Whilst my engine is doubtless considerably more worn than one at 50k miles, it doesn't exhibit any of the classic 'worn engine' symptoms of old, e.g. oil consumption, power loss or excessive blow-by. Because of that, I don't think a heavier oil would have any benefit. In terms of the oil spec, my limited exposure to tribology in a previous job working with high pressure fuel injection equipment would lead me to believe that oil condition is much more important in terms of wear than oil spec or additives - hence my belief that frequent changes of oil with the correct spec (but not necessarily the very 'best' / most expensive) oil being better than longer changes with a pricy oil. I'm not discounting the effects of additives and friction modifiers etc but I'd say it's probably a secondary effect to the oil condition. If you let your oil break down and become terribly contaminated, no amount of additive is going to help. Just my 2p!
I'm never quite sure about sucking old engine oil out from above. Would this not leave a certain amount of old oil and sediment in the bottom of the sump to contaminate the new oil?
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-SWu5i4adk/mqdefault.jpg)
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](/img/tr.png)
Glad to have fresh oil throughout the Rangie now. I was impressed by how quick and easy the oil extractor pump (amzn.to/3tRcE8C) made the oil change - but what do you guys reckon? Are you suckers or drainers?
Sucker here 👍
I’m keen to know if the copper pipe will fit down the extraction tube and, if yes, does it reach the bottom?
I’m wondering whether a pipe down the tube is more likely to really suck out the dregs, or whether you would actually get more out with a seal at the top of the tube and effectively creating such a good vacuum that the dregs get pulled up and out the tube?
I’m such a perfectionist when it comes to these things but my L322 deserves it! 🤣
I would be a drainer, and should it be possible, be able to remove the pan to see what was in the bottom, sludge, etc.
Is there not 2 drain plugs like on the 3.6? Rearmost one for small reservoir for turbo can get clogged if not drained, would the vacuum method cover this?
Just did my 300,000 mile service on my 2006. Original engine, tranny, and in tact air suspension. Keep fixing it it’ll keep going. Never sucked it once.
300000 miles or kilometers?
@@frodrguez miles
@@scotthardin29 Mine has 201,000 miles on it. It’s a 2007 4.4 Jag engine so hopefully it will get to the 300000 mark.
@@frodrguez Well you have the best engine that Land Rover has ever made in my opinion. Just keep good fluids all around (tranny included) and i attribute the long life of the engine partly to the regular use of synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer. I just hit 313,000 m. Keep it going my friend!
@@scotthardin29 Will do. Thanks for the input!
The Oil Filter O ring - or seal ring that you throw away from the filter, just cut them, in case they end up in the ocean as such a lot of junk does or in land fill where animals/birds can get them stuck on their necks.
🤦
That damage has been done unfortunately granded we do not want to add but the damage has been done and everyone and everything will suffer for years to come but its great that your out cleaning up filling bags doing your bit to help the birds fish excetra 😮
You certainly like to live dangerously with those gallon cans to drain oil into! I use an old washing up bowl, a much easier target to hit, and you can also let the drain plug drop in there as well, you really need a 4 poster to do this job, but then it would not be an adventure, at least it was not snowing, or 45 degs! Many thanks for posting this, it is inspirational. Chris B.
Thanks
Have a drink on me
You're the man! Thanks David, I sure will!
A tip for draining the oil into a gallon plastic can. lay the can on its side and cut a large square hole in the top side . This will give you a much larger target to get the oil into, just remember to refit the lid before use . You can then decant through the lid and into another container for disposal and keep your new oil drain receptacle in your tool kit for next time .
Amazing video Sam! Love the fact that someone is taking care of this amazing truck! Hoping for many more trouble free miles down the road!
Sam, thank you SOOOO much for the comment about the noise at the front of the engine. I just bought my L322 about a month ago, and the other night I noticed it making the same noise. So glad to hear others have it, and that it’s not a cause for concern! I wish we had the 4.4’s over here in the US, but regardless it’s a relevant and great video for me!
Sam - a huge thank you for this video. Just did the same on my 09 L332. Would not have been able to do this without your guidance.
To save all the time wasted measuring the proper amount of oil before filling leave you knowing that you have filled the engine this is great time saving and the only issue is trust in your ability it's fine once the oil amount is right so don't dubble check .😊
Great video, great camera angles to see every step of the process. I did feel for you lying on those stones!
Thank you so much. It looks like it's something I could do myself. I wonder how much you saved? 23:25 was the best part of the commentary. 😂
You should feed one of the thinner pipes down through the tube into the bottom of the sump then link that to the thicker pipe that attaches to the pump. That's why they seem short, you link them together.
You beat me to it, I've been a sucker for 5 years now 😂 it works perfectly. As you said, just feed a smaller tube in untill it touches the sump plug, and then attach another tube. Once it can't draw anymore oil I then leave it overnight and do it again the next morning. This will get the last of the oil out, normally another litre. I also don't know what the copper pipe is for 🤔 Any ideas ?
Was going to say the same thing. Watched another video and the sucking method with the pipe fed down to the sump got all but a few drips of oil out. The risk of leaving sludge in the sump is minimal.
Even the thinnest one doesn’t fit properly down the tube unfortunately, I tried forcing it but no good, I’m guessing that this wasn’t put in as a dipstick tube and an actual drain tube for this purpose and is at the bottom on the sump…
Hi Sam, according to the advert on Amazon for this product you can lengthen the suction pipe by using 2 or more all joined together.
Oh nice! That's good to know, thanks.
Hi.
Sorry for my english if its sometime wrong. Its self-learned.
I also make big service by my self couple monts ago, including brake fluid and power steering fluid. I make engine wash also, using cheap oil and filter. Extract and drain old oil, change filter and refill about 6 liters of sheap oil. Start the engine for about 30 seconds. And then change oil again and put new filter also. Now you have really nice and clean oil inside. But. Under the engine, there is also small oil pan (turbine drain) with cup. Did you not open this cup and didnt drain oil from there?
Its very easy to change brake fluid on this car, even dont need to remove wheels. Just need to assist by pushing brake pedal, you know what I mean.
Power steering. Need to lift up both front wheels. Then extract old oil from the tank first. Next, need to disconnect back-hose from the tank and extend it with some another, longer hose to reach in some canister. Also need to close hole on tank where you take hose off. And then fill up the tank with new fluid. Ignition on (to unlock steering wheel). Then you need to assist to turn the wheels compleatley to the left and to the right couple times. During turning steering wheel old oil coming out. You need to watch oil tank not going empty same time, to avoid getting air in system. When outgoing oil looks clean, its enough. Connect hose back to tank and make correct fluid level. Done. Additionaly, I remove the tank and wash it inside. There is a small filter inside the tank, its good to make it clean as well.
I make also transmission fluid full change (in specialized service of course).
Hi sam.
I just did my first oil and filter change in my RR thanks to you!
Bought the pump and a 36mm socket.
Just a note.
When I took the old filter out it had an insert in the centre (maybe no drain valve?)
I reused it into the new filter.
Thanks again.
Great useful videos
Great Vid Sam, getting a 4.4 TDV8 L322 in a month or so, service looked easy enough, loved your 6 mods vid as well, keep up the good work.
Great video Sam, enjoying this new push on your content! Keep them coming…
That oil transfer pump may just be the coolest thing I ever saw. The last oil change I did was a drain and it made a horrible mess. I will investigate, but does anyone know if that should still work on ‘11 with 5.0 gas motor? Thanks for the video Sam. Your glamorous assistant did a great job too!
Hey Jerry, thanks for the comment. Yes it will work fine with your 5.0 - I believe the suction pipe is located inside the filler cap on your engine. There's a link in the description to Amazon UK but I guess there will be something similar in the US too. Cheers!
Awesome, one more question. For that oil transfer pump as well as the small pump you used for the other fluids. Is there a recommended way to clean those for future uses?
@@jerrygreene7139 The best way I have found is to squirt a good amount of brake cleaner in (or any degreaser I guess), give it a good shake. In the case of the extractor, just pour out the degreaser but you can pump it through the transfer pump to clean the pipe out.
The fact your good lady so readily agreed to a 4-post ramp means she's very much a keeper!!! 😀
Another good video Sam. Will be interested to see if you note an improvement in mpg now you've swapped all fluids out for fresh stuff.
Really good guide to changing lubricants in the L322 RR. Just ordered my oils and will be doing a service soon.
Great content Sam, we've just upgraded from a 2005 S/C L322 to a 4.4 TDV8. Enjoying all your vids, may have to invest in one of those oil drain pumps, like you I prefer to change much more frequently than the factory schedule. Good work, keep it up 👍
Hi Sam, I subbed to you when I was looking at buying a High milage 3.6 V8. I gambled and although it’s not perfect. It’s done 207k so just needs love! Good work on yours!
Thanks!
Definitely made me want to tackle a service on my Insignia. Great video!
You can hand prime the fuel filter housing so it stop the engine cranking and air locks which will clear but can run the battery down if their not great
Mine started immediately after letting the fuel pump fill the filter up as you saw 👍
Great vid as per usual! The official oil filter is manufactured by Mann, I got one last week for another ‘11 4.4 that I’m replacing the turbo on. The sucker works pretty well on these, also works great on the sdv6/ingenium engines, only issue with using the sucker on the tdv8 is your not draining the turbos which is done via the second drain plug at the rear of the engine, it’s a bit of a pain in the ass on the l322 as the plug is about 1.5 inches from the subframe! Grand and handy on the l320 sport tdv8 as there is no subframe in the way! Back in the dealership I used to always use the oil vac as we were only allowed 1 hour ish for a small service so by the time you had undershieds, sump plug out etc you would be gone way over time compared to having oil vac on while removing the oil filter/topping up screen wash etc!
Cheers, good insight into main dealer land! Quick question- any idea what the extra two o-rings are for that came with the Mahle oil filter?
@@SamsMotors Do those oil filters fit another vehicle as well which might need to use the smaller o rings?
Yeah possibly, guess they have multiple applications to one part number.
@@SamsMotors check out a video on youtube somewhere where someone tears down the oil cooler - as it is attached to the filter housing - I wonder if this a complete overhaul kit and these o rings cure the leaks you were looking for?
Rotation of the tyres is also great for saving Money and keeping the car steering straight front tyres take all the brake weights so switch the back to the front even wear ❤
Sam, yet another fantastic video - really informative and helping us all to keep our L322s in fine health and on the road. It would be great if you would do one on a full brake fluid change and also a coolant change as the last of the routine service jobs! Keep up the fantastic work!!
Thankyou Andrew, glad the videos are useful!! Brake fluid is on the list, coolant not for a while but I'll get around to it eventually.
Also really keen to hear how you got on with your hard suspension niggle. Mine had the opposite problem - thought the active dynamics weren’t stiffening up enough so too much roll in corners. I used the IID tool to recalibrate the dampers and it’s definitely improved things. Have you tried that yet?
@@range_anxiety Sadly it's still an issue, I have a few things still to try before I totally give up with it though! Yes I've done the calibration a few times without any noticeable change :(
Only question on using the pump method is the risk of leaving the sludge at the bottom of the sump. Old school flushing and removing the sump plug, although time consuming, just feels better to me.
Only if you have sludge at the bottom... and if you do, then you have bigger problems elsewhere!
@Khalid Acosta 🤣🤣 I get what you mean... but there's always that bit of oil that's thicker because of the soot build up.
My viscous fan is 12-18 months old and makes that noise.
Great video as usual Sam. Did my transmission yesterday on a gravel drive so am very much sharing in your pain! Just a word to the wise - don't know if the 8 speed ZF box has the same sleeve for the electrics as the 6 speed but I was sent a Britpart replacement as part of a kit (including genuine ZF oil) - the bloody o' rings were definitely oversized and I couldn't get it to seat at all (after a good hour of struggling!) Tried the old one and it went straight in so it wasn't just me being a dick!. Took the o rings off the old one and did a comparison and the new ones were significantly bigger. Thankfully I have a box full of various o rings so found some that worked. Was at the point of wishing I hadn't bothered. Date on the original sump was 2007 so very glad I did the job. Transfer box and diffs is my next job. Cheers
Great video Sam. Used all the links, ordered the parts and oil vacuum pump. serviced the Westminster this afternoon “minus the bacon sandwich” ;) running like a dream.
Great to hear! Can't believe you omitted the bacon sarnie though, most important part!
If you save another empty screenwash bottle and leave the lid on you can cut a large square hole out the biggest side and make a free drain pan for diff etc. Easily emptied into another bottle for disposal.
Great video, Sam! Makes me want to get the spanners out. Loving the new content - keep it coming
Just sat through this video, knowing that I have mine to do. Have had the parts for a while, just waiting for better weather. I think it’s Mann filters that are oem.
Yeah it is Mann. All the stuff I took off the RR has been Mann or genuine LR branded - just shows the full LR service history is probably true!
Good One Sam!! Did my L322 service last year borrowed a sucker from local garage, but might invest in one this year! Went with liqui moly oil in mine with their oil additive and ceramic additive. Used Mann filters. Will be doing annual service or 8k similar to you. 👍 Coolant replacement, along with thermostat and water pump and power steering fluid being done in a couple of weeks. Then road trip to Wales for a week😎 when I get back and it's dry need to get another Lanoguard coating applied underneath. Keep it up. 👍 Thanks Sam
Hi Sam don't forget map sensor clean too great job
Good call!
Mate that was good timing about the fan cause mine has started making a ticking noise every now and then at start up at the front and wasn't to sure what it was. As for the sucker I would only use it for about 2 oil changes or so then drain as that way you can see if any crap is sitting in the sump.
I like to prime the fuel filter with injector cleaner fuel additive
@samsmotors thank you for doing this video helped me service my 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 85000 miles I sucked oil out drained the turbo oil dump sump all Range Rover parts and filters gonna do the transfer boxes and diff then gearbox service i used comma 5w 30 c1 fully synthetic dpf rated I’ll be changing oil every 3000 miles just to be over ocd thank’s again Sam for your videos
You’re most welcome matey 🙌
Sam can I ask you a couple of questions please
Hi, Sam! Nice to watch so detailed videos. Some tip for the future: Take windscreen washer can and cut huge hole in the side. That's my own experience lol ;)
For me car feels smoother and quiter even after washing them :D
Hi Sam! Great video! But, i heard you say that the oilfilters didn't look the same. Made the same observation, there is a plastic thing in the middle that i think you need too move over! Might bee a one way Valve. But i could not find any where to put the two smal o-rings either....
Fredrik
One of the straws in the suction kit as an extender... I think you used the extender to suck the oil. I have the same kit and the bigger one goes onto the smaller ones. HTH.
I bought my 2008 RRS HSE non supercharged for $500, yes five hundred, so far been a great car, owned it for 3 years now and no major issues
That's unreal! Luxury motoring for basically nothing!
@@SamsMotors I got extremely lucky 😃
Just like you Sam I have to scrabble around under my vehicles first time tryed with a drill pump and on my own the inevitable happened bottle went over transfer box oil all in my hair lol brought a pump like yours next time much clearer. 😅 Great vid mate Happy New year to you both and more videos to look forward to in 2023.
Superb. looks like as long as you service the beast regularly it will look after you whatever miles are on it..
Sam. Many thanks for this - a really useful reference video. I will be doing the same on my 4.4 in a couple of weeks and it is so useful to have someone talk through the steps. I will certainly look into the oil suction pump and avoid hot dirty engine oil ending up all over my arms as usual.
Oh to have a cabin filter like that instead of the ridiculous Ford Focus cabin filter. You need to be double jointed to fit the Ford one.
Sam, great stuff. Very helpful.
Are you planning on changing the coolant at any point? Looks like a faff with a vacuum tool so would love to see it done! 😮
I will have to soon I think, it's one of the few fluids I've not touched yet.
Superb informative video cheers you guys, take care .
Great video, keep them coming Comrade.
Another great video Sam. So much so I think I may have a go at doing my own oil and filter service when it’s due in the summer.
Hi Sam comments on the noise from fan I would check the top idler above the tensioner for end float this is due to the lack of grease in the bearing in the manufacturing.
I’ve had two new ones like this and found no grease apart from a smear on the dust seal , I greased my old one noise gone worth checking out if anyone has replaced them make your supplier aware of this .
Thanks, yeah I replaced all my idlers and tensioner back when I did the alternator swap last year. The ticking noise definitely comes from the fan hub, and from everything I've seen is a normal noise during warm up.
Very informative for when I eventually get my Rangey but you left out the most important piece of information, what was in the sandwich?
Great job Sam,
What OBD2 tool and software you're using?
Love the content, sadly I didn’t buy the 4.4tdv8 I bought a 3.0 but it was £500 with a suspension fault and near enough full service history so couldn’t give up the chance of buying it especially at £500. Currently getting the suspension sorted and gearbox and engine service and it’s good to go fingers crossed
You can go wrong at that price! I’d love to find something similar as a side project.
@@SamsMotors there is a autobiography black edition for sale near me for £800 won’t select 4th and 5th but everything else works, could be a nice easy fix for someone
Try a short piece of conduit to lever the Allen key
I always pre fill my fuel filter with injector cleaner....at 200k runs like a dream...
Do you know the part numbers or sizes of the the diffs and transfer case drain and fill washers please.
Going to give it ago myself. You have encouraged me to to buy a range rover (2 days ago) and do all the servicing myself.
So would we need to add two snorkels if we wanted to add a snorkel to a 4.4 TDV8?
Mobil 1 or she’ll helix ultra 3-5k intervals is a good option on most cars / engines
Well done Sam!
Great video as always! Can you PLEASE do a video of the engine and exhaust sounds just generally driving around some hilly countryside? There seems to be a severe lack of 4.4 TDV8 sound on RUclips
I can try and work it into another video... The 4.4 sounds similar to the 3.6 really but quite a bit quieter due to the DPF and soundproofing in the cab. There's not a lot to hear on a standard one!
Gained my sub. Excellent content mate.
DPF, EGR, best to get rid off. What EGR does to intake valves and intake manifold is nightmare.
As always your knowledge of everything makes me smile , mam of many talents 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Many many thanks
Thank you for the great video. Which oil are you using for the difs and transfer box?
Sam, great video- as usual. One criticism that I respectfully make.....its so 1970s to get plastered in used lube-oils! Why not try wearing disposable surgical gloves when working on the car?
Because - #realmen
@Daniel Tait hello Daniel .
1. Used motor oils are carcinogenic. Rub them all over your skin if you like, but it doesn’t make you a real man!
2. Get yourself covered in used oils - everyone will think that you are a real man, NOT!
3.Spread dirty black oil on your face, on your phone, on your white fancy car chair leather. Wipe it over the kitchen door, on the crockery, all around the bathroom- eat your food with black oily hands...that’s what real men do.... is it?
@@pamturner3532 your absolutely right, it was a joke I’ll always wear gloves when there available
@Daniel Tait thanks Daniel. Sam is really good and I think that the previous comments were ‘well intentioned’.
Thank you for another gr8 video! Cannot wait 'till i have one of these, L322 that is, not Utube channel, lol :)
Pro tip. Buy a funnel for topping up the oil.
Hey Sam! Thank you for all your videos. I have the same car and I've just followed your advices! Transmission flush, Led lights...
I have one question, I couldn't find the answer on the internet for this RR model. How can I reset the "Service Required" message? I have tried by opening the bonnet and the driver's door, ignition ON but engine off, depressing brake and gas for 30 sec and ignition off...IT DOESN'T WORK on 4.4 tdv8 2011!
Kind regards Sam, many thanks in advance
Hi Sam, next time try using WD40 on oil sump plugs before removal - “work smarter not harder”.
I’ve been thinking of getting a Range Rover off and on. Do it yourself service maintenance is an option on these vehicles. So many modern vehicles you are obliged to take to a garage because you can hardly get a fag paper between parts to get at the or they require special tools. For this service the Range Rover looks doable and your demonstration fills me with much confidence that I can handle it. Well done no curse words, which I dare say I’d have had to bleep out if I had been doing the servicing video 😂 Thank you.
Put the pump on a chair , take the pipe from the engine saves the oil in the pipe going back into engine, the pump blows of when it's pumped to max pressure so wait and pump it every few minutes. The pumps r great but every 3rd oil charge take off the sump bung and drain the engine put 2 pints down to push out any crap plus you can check for any metals so you know if theirs anything wearing out this has to be done on second hand 200.000 mile car because you don't know the true history. Plug putting in a liter of diesel and the flushing out the engine twice only using one replacement filter after second flush is brilliant to clean out carbon build up. A can of fuel system cleaner again is great but do remember diesel is the lubricant for all the fuel system 🤔
Great and interesting video!❤
i think the L322 4.4 diesel V8 is a tank,unbeatable and same as an Audi 3.0 V6 Tdi :D
Indeed it is! I reckon it'll be one of those long lived diesels that go on for years and years.
As you where underneath I would have drained oil from the sump.
The “electronic rear diff” is the locker right? Does this lovking diff have the same carbon clutches that the 5.0 lockers have?
Yeah electronic locking diff. I'd imagine it is the same diff as used in the 5.0, yeah.
Hello Sam, How long does it take to replace the diesel/water separator ? Mine has been 180 000 km (10 years) but hasn't been replaced yet! Thank you, I'll looking forward to your reply!
Great video. Do you have the IID tool or IID tool Pro?
Thanks
Great guide. Quick question, do you warm the engine up before sucking the oil out, or is the idea to do it when the engine is cold if you are sucking it out?
Definitely no harm in warming it up, it’ll help any sludgy bits liquidise and end up in the sump so you can suck them out.
Great video again Sam. Any idea how to reset service required message on screen when I start up.
L322 2009 face-lift 3.6 vogue se
Thanks Paul! On the facelift L322s the only way to reset the service interval is using a diagnostic tool.
@SamsMotors Thanks Sam. I'll have a go tomorrow 👍
All done now. Thanks for info. I was opening bonnet, opening door. Feet on accelerator and brake pedals for two days with no luck 😁
hi and thanks for the informative video! Very nice!! Regarding oil change, there is no magnet in the bottom pan, and then it is probably important to drain the oil from the bottom so that the bottom sludge and shavings come out?
something that is not possible with the suction method?
Probably good to do a full drain every few oil changes for this reason 👍
@@SamsMotors Yes, but no place can I find anything showing how to do it. The «plug» on the pan is not anything I have seen before . . . . and if I break it🙈🙈 Thanks again for your nice and detailed videos, many out there can learn from yours, on how its done😊👍👍👍
@@perhansen7696 there isn't actually a 'plug' as such, it's a plastic quick connector that is actually the bottom end of the suction pipe I used in this video. It comes off pretty easily, just using your hands or a pair of needle nose pliers (carefully) to squeeze the tabs.
@@SamsMotors many thanks! I will give it a try😅😅
HI all my 2011 4.4TDV8 has now covered 250,000 miles, oil change every 6k and she runs very well, only issue I have is if I put anything in the boot the suspension comes up with a fault, but does not go down on any side, remove the weight in the back and no fault is shown?
Hi Sam, just decided to do a service on my L322 after watching this video some time ago. Now it's done I want to clear the "Service Required" notice on the dash. I have an IID Tool (after watching your comparison video) but can't work out how to clear the service notification. Any chance you could give me a heads up on this? Thanks for the great content - keep it coming!! Cheers. Kevin
Hey Kevin, all you need to do is head into “Service/Test”, then “Instrument Pack” then choose service interval reset.
Sam, the speed of your reply is hugely impressive! I will try that tomorrow, thank you very much. All the best. Kevin
PS - it may be more than you want to get involved in but an IID tutorial would be a great additional to your channel in my opinion
What's the part number for the diesel filter?
Brilliant video , keep them coming 👍🏼
Thanks, will do!
Great stuff, keep it up!
Definitely was helpful.. 💪🏾🤘🏽
Surprised you haven’t invested in a pit with suitable concrete surround. Make working a lot easier than scrabbling around on the gravel
Would love to but we're renting. One day soon hopefully!
Thoughts on the Fumitomo F-106 oil drain valve - or the US version - EZ oil drain valve with a length of tubing attaching come oil change time? If you wanted to go belt and braces - pump from the top AND drain from the sump? Would appear to offer a way of dealing with the "uncontrollable" outpouring albeit a small residual after pumping. The pump is excellent and I'm wondering if on the 3.6 whether you can ease the tube over the dip-stick tube instead of threading the narrow tube down the neck to replicate what happens on the 4.4 with the dedicated pipe?
A valve would seem a decent idea but I don't like how easy it looks to knock that Fumitomo open. Appreciate it's hidden above the undertray etc but I don't think I'd want to trust it not to dump my oil all over the road!
Probably a good idea to drain from below once in a while to ensure there aren't any nasties lurking at the bottom of the sump, though saying that the suction tube goes below the bottom 'floor' of the sump on the 4.4.
You could certainly suck from the dipstick tube but unsure how close to the bottom of the sump it enters so it might leave a good quantity of oil in there.
When I get my purchase home I will try it and let you know. It has a height sensor failure on the rear left. Should be a simple fix when the part arrives. Height sensors said to be good for a million actuations which coincidentally kicked in on the morning I was due to take receipt of the vehicle! I ordered the tap - I will feedback on due course. I’ll make sure I carry oil and a spare drain plug and washer in the car!
Hi Sam, great video (I dont even own a RR but I enjoyed your video).
Cheers! How are the Lexi doing?
@@SamsMotors It is ok, still got this troublesome code that is taking me to WITS end haha
@@CarsofGlasgow oh no! Surely not on a Lexus! What's the code/problem?
@@SamsMotors P0125, insufficient coolant temp. It basically doesn't blow warm air into the cabin. Ive had it into Lexus dealer and local independents, replaced various sensors and still no further forward sadly.
Gear box filter wasn’t done any reason why?
Sam. I have been reading up about engine oil. Do you think there are any special considerations for high mileage FFRRs other than more frequent changes? Would a premium oil be that much better than a plain spec version? Do you think there is any merit at all in the additives eg molybdenum to reduce friction? I understand there’s a filter mechanism at the base of the sump - worth taking the sump off for a thorough clean out every three changes perhaps? Tribology is interesting.
Hey Russell, another good question, we need to get you on the next live stream 🤣
Someone on here suggested perhaps moving to a heavier weight of engine oil might be a good idea, considering the not insignificant mileage on my engine. Whilst my engine is doubtless considerably more worn than one at 50k miles, it doesn't exhibit any of the classic 'worn engine' symptoms of old, e.g. oil consumption, power loss or excessive blow-by. Because of that, I don't think a heavier oil would have any benefit.
In terms of the oil spec, my limited exposure to tribology in a previous job working with high pressure fuel injection equipment would lead me to believe that oil condition is much more important in terms of wear than oil spec or additives - hence my belief that frequent changes of oil with the correct spec (but not necessarily the very 'best' / most expensive) oil being better than longer changes with a pricy oil. I'm not discounting the effects of additives and friction modifiers etc but I'd say it's probably a secondary effect to the oil condition. If you let your oil break down and become terribly contaminated, no amount of additive is going to help.
Just my 2p!
Great video sam,
How did you get the digital speed on the dash ??
Cheers John, you can add it by updating the CCF file (IID tool).
I'm never quite sure about sucking old engine oil out from above. Would this not leave a certain amount of old oil and sediment in the bottom of the sump to contaminate the new oil?
Probably a little more than draining normally, but you could minimise that by draining via the sump plug or doing a flush every few oil changes.
Great vidio. Thanks.
Just bought a Range Rover Sport 2008 with full service.. I checked the oil and its black?
Pretty normal for oil to go black, especially if it's a diesel. Check the service records and get it done if necessary :)
i think land rover choose screws to assure not get water when vehicle is sunk.
Clever man 👏👏👏👏👏