It's not all sugar-plums and rainbows in the world of cheap Rangies! I've ordered a new damper for the rear right corner now, so hopefully that will sort her out!
When I did my apprenticeship - mostly on Series 3 Landy's, one thing I always remember learning in regards to brakes/tyres/steering and suspension was... "whatever you do to one side, always do the same to the other! Hope the new damper sorts it! When BMW only changed one caliper under warranty on a 5 Series I owned a few years ago, a conversation on these lines also got me one for the other side too - which they tried to avoid doing. Great series - really enjoying it!
Im not into LandRovers at all but found this channel and now im hooked. Like your presenting style too, also im finding myself wanting a Range Rover now lol
Love watching your videos on the Landy, having owned one for about 15 years I can help put an end to your suspension misery, because it will never end (especially on an old one). If you plan to keep it, do yourself (and IT) a favour and replace the air suspension with Old Man Emu coil overs off road kit. The ride will still be plush and you get a slight lift for off road look and use. Trust me you won't regret it. You seems like a pretty smart guy, I'm sure you can do it on your own. Look into it.....Greetings from Canada!
Thank-you, I'm glad you enjoy watching them and also glad the appeal isn't just to UK viewers!. I know what you're saying about deleting the air suspension system, but for me it's one of the best features of the RR. I had a P38 which had been coil converted a few years back, and whilst it was a relief to not have to worry about the dreaded 'beep beep beep' of the dashboard, it never felt quite 'right'. Cheers, Sam
One thing to be mindful of if trying an ecu from another vehicle they may well need to be coded to the vehicle before they will work as this is now often the case , I to bought a 2011 vogue last year cat N salvage bumper headlight and parking sensors that’s all it had wrong, Scan the vehicle for fault codes I bet the manifold temperature sensor will be at fault very common, this will affect the fuel trim etc ,doesn’t give an eml light The sensor is about £95 and an absolute B•••••D to do but can be done Hope all goes well for you
Sam - great video yet again, and very timely for me. Had the 'Suspension Fault' warning light come on this morning and, after a bit of testing of the system you can clearly see from the way the car settles (2010 4.4tdv8 Vogue like yours, but less miles!) that the rear right airbag is leaking. It's a slow settle over about 20-30 mins to the low access height - which it shouldn't do. Thanks for showing how relatively simple a job it is - and certainly one I am prepared to tackle. Ordering my AeroSus units today.... PS. Have now converted every possible light inside and out to LED's as shown in your 'cheap upgrades' videos and the difference - particularly with the Bevinsee units for dipped and main beam - is astonishing. Having my towbar issue diagnosed in a couple of weeks (previous owner had it fitted a year ago and it seems to have knocked out the front and rear parking sensors, so not been plugged in and told the ECU that there's a towbar there now!) and hopefully find out if the EGR and DOF were cancelled when he had it remapped.
Great video series, i've just bought a 2010 4.4 TDV8 myself and i've already learned so much from your videos! Would love to see a transmission/diff/transfer box service in the future!
I took apart the shifter assembly right where it enters the transmission and freed it up and lube it with grease, that improved shifting immensely and cost me nothing. I do recommend that anyone buying an RR, get the transmission fluid and filter changed asap.
Hi Sam, just a quick thought, but if the garage who replaced any suspension components didn't know (as you obviously do!) that you can replace the air springs and dampers without touching the wishbones etc they might have undone some fixings, made the changes then then tightened the fixings WITHOUT sitting the car on it's wheels again, and putting weight through the suspension parts BEFORE fully tightening the suspension bolts. IF this was done in the way I'm implying, the suspension will 'bind up' at normal ride height and give a stiffer ride. Just a suggestion ... Dave
You are correct in that assumption David. It is highly likely that the garage did just that, and even on the Discovery 2's it was possible to cause that sort of problem on this type of system. I replaced the rear of my Disco 2 with coil over's in place of the air bag system because I could never get the height to calibrate at all. The ride on the coils was brilliant compared with the OEM system when it won't work properly and you can't afford to throw hundreds of quid trying to fix it.
I just did mine a month ago , new upper and lower control arms , ball joints , front struts and a new compressor . Now it rides so well in all situations !
Great vid, I have a 2010 L322 and always thought it should ride a lot smoother than it does. With it being my first RR I don't have a point of reference. Time to get the jack out and have a look for spurious bags.
I would say that it will most likely be the mismatch of shock absorbers. The self-levelling system looks at comparative return signal from both sides and will over correct if there is a mismatch. This will be due to the new shock having resistance and the old shock having less resistance at the same height. Hope you manage to sort it out. Keep up the good work!
The original Range Rover sport had the fancy system as standard (in whatever specification) but the tdv8, supercharged and cars speced with the adaptive dynamics used a system along side the L322 type that used a fluid in the anti toll bars to resist body roll. The L322 system is far more simple and far better for comfort. Check the wires going to the front air bags (under the bonnet) they break and cause all manner of codes.
Ah that's interesting, I didn't know the Sports had AD before the full fat. I knew they had active anti roll bars (ACE) like the old Discovery 2 did. The front wires seem to have been repaired in the past. There aren't any error codes thrown by the Adaptive Dynamics system unfortunately, so as far as it knows, it's working fine!
If shock absorbers are changed, then they should always be changed as a pair on the same axle. Worn suspension arm bushings are often the culprit, perhaps these are perished on your Rangey. Lastly all the early Rangeys actually ride better when the rear suspension is under load, Try a few sacks of garden compost in the back and you will be surprised how the air suspension and dampers modulate the ride.
Only just found you today but loving these videos Sam! Having recently swapped from a 2005 TD6 to a 2012 TDV8 I have noticed that the ride is firmer on the newer one with the CVD dampers on. Also something else that may affect the harshness of the ride is your change from 19” to 20” rims, as you commented it feels different now to when you first test drove the car. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more videos!
I'd certainly agree that changing up a wheel rim diameter will certainly increase the harshness of the ride because the wall height will be less on the 20" rims and thus a stiffer ride. My L322 4.2 supercharged Overfinch came with 22" rims and the ride was as harsh as hell. I bought a set of secondhand 19" Range Rover rims that has Pirelli Scorpion M+S with a decent amount of tread left on them and the ride was transformed with more tyre wall between the road and the rims.
Just stumbled across this channel and binge watched all your L322 videos. Great stuff keep up the good work. I have been driving a 2009 3.6 for five years now and still love it, for the most part not had too much trouble yet !! Liked and subscribed looking forward to further content.
Hi Sam dito to the other answers I always change shocks / springs / disc's and pads in pairs I know you didn't fit the single shock but the garage should have fitted 2 I guess they didn't want to pay out for the other side great vids keep up the good work 👍
Great videos Sam just shows these old girls don’t cost an arm and leg to maintain, and always buy quality parts, my 2007 drives like new with 117k on the clock. Keep the videos coming, great job
All the garages I've worked in we've always quoted for a pair of dampers because if one has failed the other won't be to far behind it. You will also get an imbalance between new and old which will affect the handling. But human nature is what it is and the customer is always right and most will ask for just the one and then return a few weeks later with the other one blown out 🤦♂️ good work on the vids really enjoying the series 👍
Had mine for about 4 months now.... got an intermittent P006A fault...resulting in limp mode..... hopefully fixed this week..... Bit this car is awesome..... loving it.... a bit more comfy than my old series 3..... thanks for the vids... I'm sure they'll come in handy at some point. )))
Hi Sam, loving the how to videos and especially on the Range Rover as have been looking for one for some time. From my early days as a mechanic it was always a golden rule to change suspension and brakes on the same axle, so always in pairs as safety critical as others have also commented. I imagine it will sort your problem but if not still a necessary cost. Looking forward to your update video.
Really enjoying watching these videos, I've just ventured into the world of the range rover and have bought a 96 p38, several issues including regularly losing charge from the battery but loving driving it.
Do you think the airbag is compensating for the lack of damping from the leaky shock? These systems give an amazing ride when everything works as it should however it only takes one little niggle to upset the whole system. Hope you sort it and thanks for taking us along on this ride, your honesty and integrity is refreshing in a world of so many over-produced videos on telly and YT.
Nice work on the air bags 👍 I’m sure having matching arms will help settle the adaptive system, the more you can match in symmetry the better. This won’t help your suspension but keep an eye on your manifold hoses, they can pop out when you least expect! And if they do be careful refitting them, it can be tricky to get the jubilee clip to tighten up in the right place!
Cheers! When I service the engine, I'll have all the covers off and have a good look around at all the hoses. Anything that look suspect will get replaced!
@@RR_36V8 flushed a relatively low mileage V70 as precautionary measure. Seemed to dislodge something and knackered the gearbox. All done by a specialist so be cautious...
@@SamsMotors if you can, seek out an authorised ZF shop. The ZF service includes replacing worn mechatronic parts and is more comprehensive than the simple oil and filter change.
Sam hi hello Thanku for taking the time out to show us your suspension issues and fixes I was wonder if you can confirm, the AMBIGUITY about jacking-up your, ones Rangie L322 2004 without first fully lifting the whole motor up into off-road mode Regards .roly
Had all these problems with my 2006 hse sports in the end got Dunlop coil springs fitted , it rode better and best decision I made. Also, had my transmission rebuilt with new torque converter and guaranteed for 12,000 miles. Would recommend them to anyone Mr. Transmission at Charlton, London.
Sam great video's loving all of them, I had a pajero a while back and that had a hard ride and i know it didnt have air suspension, What i noticed was when I visited a builders merchant and filled the back full of bags of cement it transformed the ride. It was super quiet and glided over the bumps, it felt like a different car. My point is maybe your ride height needs tweaking so that your shocks become compressed a little. Anyway that was my experience but i know you cant drive round with 20 bags of cement in the back forever.
Sam thanks for the great vid, I have had a L322 Tdv8 3.6 2007 for about a year now, but why does my axle drop when i take a wheel off? It does it on all wheels too, i mean when i take the wheel of any hub that hub drops. Apart from that the air suspension seems to be functioning ok. It must be sucking air in somewhere? Any pointers would be appreciated, thanks in advance :)
Do you mean the hub goes down (towards the ground) or up? When you jack corner of the car up, the car will try to self level to maintain all four corners at the same height. You can prevent this by keeping one of the doors open while you jack it.
@SamsMotors thanks Sam, yes the hub drops when I remove a wheel with ignition off, though not much force pushing down, I can almost lift it with my hands. I'll try the open door today or tomorrow. Thanks
@samsmotors I tried with the door open and the hub still dropped an inch or so. Just a pain in the bum to jack up the hub too to refit the wheel. So I feel it's sucking air somewhere, but I'm not sure where to start checking.
Very nice for the money. Drove the whole of New Zealand in a 08 L322 petrol when living there was awesome. Nice to hear your experiences with no reserve cars in Reading as usually its very negative. As an ex MOT tester you have to remember the test is minimum standards on the day of the test. Good Luck on improving her.
@@SamsMotors Even drove it down Skippers Canyon just outside Queenstown which is one of the Worlds most Dangerous roads. Now driving an old Renault 4 living here in France.
Glad you like them! I'm considering a transmission service, but don't know whether to get it 'flushed' by a transmission service place, or to just drop the oil myself and refill. If I go with the flush, I want to find someone who is willing to be videoed for RUclips purposes!
@@SamsMotors I would do it myself. You'll get about half of the old gearbox oil out. At least you will get to see how dirty it is or if it smells burnt, although that's unlikely as you have no gearbox issues. I would then change the gearbox oil again after maybe a 100 miles of use. After replacing another half your oil should be very clean. I did it in my Discovery 3 and after the second change the oil in the gearbox was very clean and golden looking. Nice videos, keep them coming 😊👍
Good on you for being up to doing your own maintenance, what you have done up to now would sting the purse strings at an LR dealership or an LR specialist. Hope the damper sorts out the Rangie for you, Looking forward to the next vid.
Hi Sam, did you get it resolved. I'd say it is down to the brand of the shocks that can vary ride quality. Did you happen to tell the car you changed to alloy wheel size as this is done and the ride height can be reset and calibrated at each corner from memory taken from the centre of each wheel hub to the highest point of the underside of the wheel arch lips. The ride could be stiffening to compensate for an incorrect height. Make sure to post when you resolve it.
Awesome video again Sam! I’m having deployable side steps fitted today 😦 wish me luck! Will send some pictures of the new interior over as well, it came out great.
Interesting stuff, I understood the suspension was normally running at its stiffest and it only opened the valve and got softer when required, rather than having a stiffer calibration for more sporty driving.
I only just came across your video. Very well done and detailed. It convinced me that you know what you're at. I have a 4.4L Vogue L322. The suspension shows a fault once I start moving and request that I drive at 30mph max with a red caution. It then drops and the vehicle begins to bounce. Once I pull over, turn it off and restart the car, it resets but soon does it again or sometimes will not drop for over 50kms. I was considering coil conversion when I came across your video. Can you help?
Great video! We need more good L322 content on here. As a 4.4 owner (I previously had the 3.6) I'll be interested to see how your suspension maintenance goes. I really envy your ability to do this yourself. I have neither the tools nor the workspace to attempt anything myself so I'm at the mercy of my main dealer. Here in Germany good indepdendent LR specialists are few and far between. Subbed!
Thanks for your comments mate, and I'm glad to see that I have overseas viewers as well as the UK lot! If you start out small with maintenance, your confidence and skills will steadily grow. The same goes for your tools and equipment - just buy pieces as you go, and it will soon build up. Cheers, Sam
LOl, I was just in the same compartment this morning on my 2006 RR trying to track down a fault in my parking sensors, by plugging in a PDC module I got on ebay as well. Sigh no luck so it's time to take off the bumpers....
I own rr l322 since 2013, I had all of them from the td6 till the 5.0, now i have a 2011 l322 and I had your same problem, the car was bit hard instead being smooth. It ended after I changed everything and I mean air struts front and rear and dynamic oil suspension front and rear. What I can say is those dynamics age very badly even if they do not leak (mine were leaking oil) they loose sensibility after years and years with that weight on top. What I can say is that l322 was sensibly smoother before being equipped with dynamic oil suspensions but remind it makes huge difference what alloy and tyres you use, personally I drive mine with 21 inches alloy and it is not smooth as my previous was with 19 inches alloys... hope it helps
Interesting! So you replaced the front struts and rear dampers? The strange thing about mine is that even though the rear dampers have been replaced, the hard ride on the rear still persists. The front rides hard too, so I assumed it was an issue with the electronics or control system of the dampers, as opposed to the dampers themselves. My current plan is to replace all of the dampers/struts with non-variable units from an earlier L322. Like you say, it's often said that they rode better than the later ones anyway.
have a look at AA silencers ltd Jaguar XKR active suspension fault on RUclips i don't know if this will help as it's the same Module. Enjoyed your video's, oh the joys of working outdoors.
Great video! I have the same issue (2011 l322) and had both rear dampers replaced. My next task was going to be to record the suspension movement on each corner to see whether it was front being choppy. Apparently the ecu can still send 1.5a but if the seals / solenoid is gone it won’t operate correctly
Oh wow! I didn't expect to find anyone with the same problem. So did your rear damper replacement improve it? My front struts were replaced in 2017 so not that old... here's hoping it is just that rear right one causing all the issues!
@Sam's Motor & Machine Have you tried resetting the suspension adaptions? It’s hard to tell whether the new dampers improved the ride: I had a bucked wheel which was causing the ecu to think I had wheel hop and stiffen the damper as a corrective measure - made motorway driving unbearable. Swapping the wheels addressed that but I still have this choppy ride- tempted to replace the front dampers but they’re not cheap! Ps, I bought the second cheapest L322 in the Uk (I think!)
I don’t know for sure but I think when you change the module it requires programming it in. I don’t know if it’ll fix the issue as it sounds more like a damper issue but it’s just something I think that needs doing.
You're probably right, I did think this as I've seen an option in SDD for 'calibrate new adaptive damping module'. However it didn't throw up any faults/codes when I just plugged it in...?
@@SamsMotors It probably wouldn’t throw up any faults as the air suspension and the module are working. I think the SDD calibration is required to reset all the values and as it says calibrate the module with the air suspension system and then carried out a self test. Then if there are faults found in the self test once calibrated then that will show any issues
@@SamsMotors no worries! I don’t know if it will fix your problem as it sounds like struts might be your issue however it might help the performance of the air suspension system. This is also a great series to watch!
Bilstein list 2 damper for this model, one with electronic damping control, the other without. Might be worth checking the company fitted the correct damper, there again if they hadn't the ecu would probably have thrown up a fault code! So maybe just ignore me. I was looking at the price of the front strut & airbags for edc. Eye wateringly expensive. 😬 BTW love your videos, and love the L322 4.4 TD V8. 👍
Hi Mike, yeah they do! The first thing I checked when I got the car delivered was the part number of the new damper, thankfully it checks out as a VDC one. And yes, I wouldn't want to replace a whole front strut 😬 luckily my two fronts were replaced at the end of 2017 with genuine LR ones, so hopefully will be good for a while. Cheers, Sam
Did i hear the air bag costs 60 pound each? Thats not much i thought when RR has issues with the suspensions its very expensive and its almost certain that at some point you will have issues with it?
It’s got to be the mismatched rear dampers. You’ve got matching airbags, fully working electrics, so all that’s left is the dampers. I’ve always been advised to change suspension bits in pairs so they totally match. I’d also be tempted to buy an original fitment pair rather than a non original to match the other new non original. Expensive but you may end up with a matching pair of Bilstein dampers you hate the feel of if you stick with matching the other new one.
Hi Sam, I thoroughly enjoy your very informative videos. I'm looking to buy my RR with the same 4.4 diesel. Could you please tell me what sort of MPG both in town and highway you get?
Hi Sam, I have been chasing the same rear end harshness issue with mine... a 2010 3.6TDV8 which also has the adaptive dynamics, All bushes looked fine to me and i could not make them do anything strange with a pry bar so i bought two brand new bilstein shocks and fitted them = exactly the same which i was not happy about but hey i guess i have some spare shocks now... anyway i think the rear subframe bushes are quite possibly the issue... im going to be replacing mine very soon but i reckon youll probably beat me to it
Interesting, that's two others that seem to have a similar issue. Out of interest, have you replaced your rear height sensors in chasing this issue? I'm now thinking they may have something to do with it, as the VDS system takes an input from the height sensors to determine wheel motion.
@@SamsMotors No haven't done anything with sensors. I might go over the data from them as best I can with the gap tool.., I do have a new spare genuine sensor on hand
@@dave216dx I did the same with SDD over the weekend and it also looked OK. With your IID tool you should be able to do an adaptive dynamics / CVD calibration procedure, which is done while driving from what I have read. There's a guy on the FFRR forum called GraemeS who has posted about it previously, and apparently it makes a big difference. SDD also has a calibration function which I'm yet to try.
@@SamsMotors Hi Sam i have done the calibration a few times... The issue I find with it is no explanation of exactly how it should be performed... As in what sort of terrain you should drive over in the calibration window which is brief. Also what does it do exactly?.. compensate for component wear I think? I'll check the workshop manual maybe it's in there but I missed it
Just stumbled across your channel sam it’s great stuff uk based stuff 👍 can I ask what the software is that you used to get the wiring diagrams 1.42 into the video ??
Are you looking to do a transmission or diff oil chain at any stage? Also they can suffer from aircon issues with the variable valve going off on the blink, Be interesting to know if you have the same issue. Have to say i did like your reaction to the power....i do the same! Feels the same even with 5 up. Love the videos so far!
I'm looking to do all the oils in the Spring. I'm not sure whether to get the transmission 'mega flushed' or to just drop the oil and replace it myself. I haven't got any HVAC system problems at the moment (touch wood) but I've got no idea if the air con works currently. Thanks for watching!
If you can wait a week my next video will cover an oil service on my RR. I'm going to be using a suction pump on mine but I will show where the oil drain is too.
Hello. Thanks for this nice video. Do You evtentually have the tightening torques for the strut parts at the front? Maybe in this great PDF document that is shown in Your video. Can You send this to me? That would be great. Greetings Fritz Hoffmann from Germany
1 thing this video did prove is there is no difference between a cheap air spring vs a more expensive 1 😉 I always buy the cheaper aftermarket parts for my l322 and never have any problems 🤷♂️just as you experienced there upgrading to a more expensive air spring didn’t make any difference lol I’ve just had to buy a front air spring now for oem or even close to that your looking at £500 but I’ve just purchased one for a laughable £130 including strut when people say to me I bet that’s expensive to fix I just burst out laughing 😂😂😂😂 anyway love your videos and nice l322 👍
Hey! Ive bougt a 2010 3.6 tdv8 thats fully working but. Ive would like to fully change out the original suspension to a fully Arnott one. But i have the problem of not knowing if the car is electronically dampend? I have that module installed in my car as well. But isent that installed in all Rangies? Ive now ordered a set of front suspensions to my car and are starting to think that im about to recive the wrong setup. Do you have any tips were i could find the right information about my cars existing suspension?
Hi Emil, The easiest way for you to find out is to open the bonnet of your car. If you have black wiring connections to the tops of the suspension struts, you have the electronic/variable damping system. On a 2010 car I would definitely expect this to be the case. Sam
@@SamsMotors Hi! Thank you so much for the quick reply. Im gonna go out and check strait away. I like all your videos btw. They are very informative and a great inspiration.
Thanx alot you saved me a lot of time and money. Just one more question? What was it in the end that fixed your suspension problem, was it the bilstein chocks or the calibration? Or did i miss something?
@@SamsMotors to refresh all the air thats renew it all is just under 3k iv a small leak in the rear now to replace the 2 struts with 2 new struts is nearly 400 a corner and 300 labour and after all that this is ireland bad winter around my area and i could be repeating myself im just going to make the jeep reliable now
Check out Aerosus, they have good prices when you buy 2+ items at once, and you can use my code SAM15 for 15 euro off on top. You can also replace just the bags as opposed to the whole strut, which will make it cheaper still.
Quite a good suggestion actually, as the active damping module does take inputs from the height sensors. If the sensor was giving erroneous readings (i.e. jumping up and down) it could upset it I suppose... I will plug in with SDD and check the live data from it. Cheers!
I just bought a 200& Range Rover HSE and the front air suspension bags had leaks. I just replaced them both and it seems that the pressure is being released from the back bags to the front bags.. so the front of the car keeps going up and I cannot get the bags to release air. I think that may be the reason why they need to be replaced in the first place. Cause they probably popped.. And I’m not sure what’s causing that some type of valve that is not closing between the front and back. So when the back of the car drops the front raises, and then if I put more air in the back and then lower it again, it raises the front even higher.
It sounds like one of the three solenoid valves are faulty. There is one at the pump/tank, one in the rear right wheel well and one in the front right wheel well.
It's not all sugar-plums and rainbows in the world of cheap Rangies! I've ordered a new damper for the rear right corner now, so hopefully that will sort her out!
When I did my apprenticeship - mostly on Series 3 Landy's, one thing I always remember learning in regards to brakes/tyres/steering and suspension was... "whatever you do to one side, always do the same to the other! Hope the new damper sorts it! When BMW only changed one caliper under warranty on a 5 Series I owned a few years ago, a conversation on these lines also got me one for the other side too - which they tried to avoid doing. Great series - really enjoying it!
If you want a direct comparison, pop over and drive mine
This is the big brother the internet has given me so far. I also love land rover range rovers only, nothing else. Thanks for the content.
Im not into LandRovers at all but found this channel and now im hooked. Like your presenting style too, also im finding myself wanting a Range Rover now lol
That's awesome to read, thanks! I will probably start mixing in non-LR videos soon as I have a project MX-5 that I'm also working on.
I’m no mechanic, but I thoroughly enjoy your videos and seeing you developing and improving your new vehicle. 👏👏
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
Quality production, really well filmed and explained 👍👍😎😎
Thank you! 👍
Always worth changing suspension parts in pairs plus check bushes. Great video and looking forward to the next one.
Good tip! Cheers.
Love watching your videos on the Landy, having owned one for about 15 years I can help put an end to your suspension misery, because it will never end (especially on an old one). If you plan to keep it, do yourself (and IT) a favour and replace the air suspension with Old Man Emu coil overs off road kit. The ride will still be plush and you get a slight lift for off road look and use. Trust me you won't regret it. You seems like a pretty smart guy, I'm sure you can do it on your own. Look into it.....Greetings from Canada!
Thank-you, I'm glad you enjoy watching them and also glad the appeal isn't just to UK viewers!.
I know what you're saying about deleting the air suspension system, but for me it's one of the best features of the RR. I had a P38 which had been coil converted a few years back, and whilst it was a relief to not have to worry about the dreaded 'beep beep beep' of the dashboard, it never felt quite 'right'.
Cheers,
Sam
One thing to be mindful of if trying an ecu from another vehicle they may well need to be coded to the vehicle before they will work as this is now often the case ,
I to bought a 2011 vogue last year cat N salvage bumper headlight and parking sensors that’s all it had wrong,
Scan the vehicle for fault codes I bet the manifold temperature sensor will be at fault very common, this will affect the fuel trim etc ,doesn’t give an eml light
The sensor is about £95 and an absolute B•••••D to do but can be done
Hope all goes well for you
Sam - great video yet again, and very timely for me. Had the 'Suspension Fault' warning light come on this morning and, after a bit of testing of the system you can clearly see from the way the car settles (2010 4.4tdv8 Vogue like yours, but less miles!) that the rear right airbag is leaking. It's a slow settle over about 20-30 mins to the low access height - which it shouldn't do.
Thanks for showing how relatively simple a job it is - and certainly one I am prepared to tackle. Ordering my AeroSus units today....
PS. Have now converted every possible light inside and out to LED's as shown in your 'cheap upgrades' videos and the difference - particularly with the Bevinsee units for dipped and main beam - is astonishing.
Having my towbar issue diagnosed in a couple of weeks (previous owner had it fitted a year ago and it seems to have knocked out the front and rear parking sensors, so not been plugged in and told the ECU that there's a towbar there now!) and hopefully find out if the EGR and DOF were cancelled when he had it remapped.
Great video series, i've just bought a 2010 4.4 TDV8 myself and i've already learned so much from your videos! Would love to see a transmission/diff/transfer box service in the future!
I took apart the shifter assembly right where it enters the transmission and freed it up and lube it with grease, that improved shifting immensely and cost me nothing. I do recommend that anyone buying an RR, get the transmission fluid and filter changed asap.
Hi Sam, just a quick thought, but if the garage who replaced any suspension components didn't know (as you obviously do!) that you can replace the air springs and dampers without touching the wishbones etc they might have undone some fixings, made the changes then then tightened the fixings WITHOUT sitting the car on it's wheels again, and putting weight through the suspension parts BEFORE fully tightening the suspension bolts.
IF this was done in the way I'm implying, the suspension will 'bind up' at normal ride height and give a stiffer ride.
Just a suggestion ...
Dave
Good thought Dave, I'll take a closer look at the fixings and see if they've disturbed anything.
You are correct in that assumption David. It is highly likely that the garage did just that, and even on the Discovery 2's it was possible to cause that sort of problem on this type of system. I replaced the rear of my Disco 2 with coil over's in place of the air bag system because I could never get the height to calibrate at all. The ride on the coils was brilliant compared with the OEM system when it won't work properly and you can't afford to throw hundreds of quid trying to fix it.
I just did mine a month ago , new upper and lower control arms , ball joints , front struts and a new compressor . Now it rides so well in all situations !
Great vid, I have a 2010 L322 and always thought it should ride a lot smoother than it does. With it being my first RR I don't have a point of reference. Time to get the jack out and have a look for spurious bags.
I would say that it will most likely be the mismatch of shock absorbers. The self-levelling system looks at comparative return signal from both sides and will over correct if there is a mismatch. This will be due to the new shock having resistance and the old shock having less resistance at the same height. Hope you manage to sort it out. Keep up the good work!
I'm thinking along the same lines too. The damper should be here by the end of the week so we'll find out!
Cheers,
Sam
The original Range Rover sport had the fancy system as standard (in whatever specification) but the tdv8, supercharged and cars speced with the adaptive dynamics used a system along side the L322 type that used a fluid in the anti toll bars to resist body roll. The L322 system is far more simple and far better for comfort. Check the wires going to the front air bags (under the bonnet) they break and cause all manner of codes.
Ah that's interesting, I didn't know the Sports had AD before the full fat. I knew they had active anti roll bars (ACE) like the old Discovery 2 did. The front wires seem to have been repaired in the past. There aren't any error codes thrown by the Adaptive Dynamics system unfortunately, so as far as it knows, it's working fine!
If shock absorbers are changed, then they should always be changed as a pair on the same axle. Worn suspension arm bushings are often the culprit, perhaps these are perished on your Rangey. Lastly all the early Rangeys actually ride better when the rear suspension is under load, Try a few sacks of garden compost in the back and you will be surprised how the air suspension and dampers modulate the ride.
Only just found you today but loving these videos Sam!
Having recently swapped from a 2005 TD6 to a 2012 TDV8 I have noticed that the ride is firmer on the newer one with the CVD dampers on. Also something else that may affect the harshness of the ride is your change from 19” to 20” rims, as you commented it feels different now to when you first test drove the car.
Keep up the good work and looking forward to more videos!
I'd certainly agree that changing up a wheel rim diameter will certainly increase the harshness of the ride because the wall height will be less on the 20" rims and thus a stiffer ride. My L322 4.2 supercharged Overfinch came with 22" rims and the ride was as harsh as hell. I bought a set of secondhand 19" Range Rover rims that has Pirelli Scorpion M+S with a decent amount of tread left on them and the ride was transformed with more tyre wall between the road and the rims.
I was surprised only one shock was changed, was always taught to only to replace in pairs.
Maybe not going to be the cheapest now 😯
Hope you sort it.
I'll do a totting up video at some point to give the 'real cost'. I still reckon it'll be the cheapest when all's said and done.
love this channel, especially more because i have just bought the same car! keep up the great work sam!
Thank you mate, and good luck with the Rangie!
I just stumbled upon this channel and he was even so kind enough to give us a rundown of how the air bag suspension system works. I was impressed.
Glad it was useful!
Just stumbled across this channel and binge watched all your L322 videos. Great stuff keep up the good work. I have been driving a 2009 3.6 for five years now and still love it, for the most part not had too much trouble yet !! Liked and subscribed looking forward to further content.
Hi Sam dito to the other answers I always change shocks / springs / disc's and pads in pairs I know you didn't fit the single shock but the garage should have fitted 2 I guess they didn't want to pay out for the other side great vids keep up the good work 👍
Great videos Sam just shows these old girls don’t cost an arm and leg to maintain, and always buy quality parts, my 2007 drives like new with 117k on the clock. Keep the videos coming, great job
Very true, and thank-you for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it!
All the garages I've worked in we've always quoted for a pair of dampers because if one has failed the other won't be to far behind it.
You will also get an imbalance between new and old which will affect the handling. But human nature is what it is and the customer is always right and most will ask for just the one and then return a few weeks later with the other one blown out 🤦♂️ good work on the vids really enjoying the series 👍
Had mine for about 4 months now.... got an intermittent P006A fault...resulting in limp mode..... hopefully fixed this week..... Bit this car is awesome..... loving it.... a bit more comfy than my old series 3..... thanks for the vids... I'm sure they'll come in handy at some point. )))
Hi Sam, loving the how to videos and especially on the Range Rover as have been looking for one for some time. From my early days as a mechanic it was always a golden rule to change suspension and brakes on the same axle, so always in pairs as safety critical as others have also commented. I imagine it will sort your problem but if not still a necessary cost. Looking forward to your update video.
Cheers Phil, glad you are enjoying the videos! I agree with you - hopefully it fixes the issue, but if not, it needed doing anyway!
Sam
When suspension bits are replaced on these the hub should be jacked up to the normal road height before tightening bolts
Really enjoying watching these videos, I've just ventured into the world of the range rover and have bought a 96 p38, several issues including regularly losing charge from the battery but loving driving it.
Do you think the airbag is compensating for the lack of damping from the leaky shock? These systems give an amazing ride when everything works as it should however it only takes one little niggle to upset the whole system.
Hope you sort it and thanks for taking us along on this ride, your honesty and integrity is refreshing in a world of so many over-produced videos on telly and YT.
Nice work on the air bags 👍 I’m sure having matching arms will help settle the adaptive system, the more you can match in symmetry the better. This won’t help your suspension but keep an eye on your manifold hoses, they can pop out when you least expect! And if they do be careful refitting them, it can be tricky to get the jubilee clip to tighten up in the right place!
Cheers! When I service the engine, I'll have all the covers off and have a good look around at all the hoses. Anything that look suspect will get replaced!
Give it a Transmission Service, would be good to see how the oil comes out with the miles on her!
I agree - but I'm not sure whether to get the transmission 'mega flushed' or to just drop the oil and replace it myself.
Sam's Motor & Machine i would drop the oil - a megaflush may do it worse than good especially with the mileage
@@RR_36V8 flushed a relatively low mileage V70 as precautionary measure. Seemed to dislodge something and knackered the gearbox. All done by a specialist so be cautious...
@@SamsMotors if you can, seek out an authorised ZF shop. The ZF service includes replacing worn mechatronic parts and is more comprehensive than the simple oil and filter change.
Sam hi hello Thanku for taking the time out to show us your suspension issues and fixes
I was wonder if you can confirm, the AMBIGUITY about jacking-up your, ones Rangie L322 2004
without first fully lifting the whole motor up into off-road mode
Regards .roly
Had all these problems with my 2006 hse sports in the end got Dunlop coil springs fitted , it rode better and best decision I made. Also, had my transmission rebuilt with new torque converter and guaranteed for 12,000 miles. Would recommend them to anyone Mr. Transmission at Charlton, London.
Sam great video's loving all of them, I had a pajero a while back and that had a hard ride and i know it didnt have air suspension, What i noticed was when I visited a builders merchant and filled the back full of bags of cement it transformed the ride. It was super quiet and glided over the bumps, it felt like a different car. My point is maybe your ride height needs tweaking so that your shocks become compressed a little. Anyway that was my experience but i know you cant drive round with 20 bags of cement in the back forever.
I watch this video with great interest as I have bought an 08 sport hse....
Sam thanks for the great vid, I have had a L322 Tdv8 3.6 2007 for about a year now, but why does my axle drop when i take a wheel off? It does it on all wheels too, i mean when i take the wheel of any hub that hub drops. Apart from that the air suspension seems to be functioning ok. It must be sucking air in somewhere? Any pointers would be appreciated, thanks in advance :)
Do you mean the hub goes down (towards the ground) or up? When you jack corner of the car up, the car will try to self level to maintain all four corners at the same height.
You can prevent this by keeping one of the doors open while you jack it.
@SamsMotors thanks Sam, yes the hub drops when I remove a wheel with ignition off, though not much force pushing down, I can almost lift it with my hands. I'll try the open door today or tomorrow. Thanks
@samsmotors I tried with the door open and the hub still dropped an inch or so. Just a pain in the bum to jack up the hub too to refit the wheel. So I feel it's sucking air somewhere, but I'm not sure where to start checking.
Very nice for the money.
Drove the whole of New Zealand in a 08 L322 petrol when living there was awesome.
Nice to hear your experiences with no reserve cars in Reading as usually its very negative.
As an ex MOT tester you have to remember the test is minimum standards on the day of the test.
Good Luck on improving her.
The length of NZ in an L322 sounds epic! I visited NZ in '19 and absolutely loved it. We didn't have the luxury of a Rangie though sadly!
@@SamsMotors
Even drove it down Skippers Canyon just outside Queenstown which is one of the Worlds most Dangerous roads.
Now driving an old Renault 4 living here in France.
Congrats Sam. Real nice, informative and entertaining videos that you're uploading!
Glad you like them!
Definitely a transmission service mate! Love these videos!
Glad you like them! I'm considering a transmission service, but don't know whether to get it 'flushed' by a transmission service place, or to just drop the oil myself and refill. If I go with the flush, I want to find someone who is willing to be videoed for RUclips purposes!
@@SamsMotors I would do it myself. You'll get about half of the old gearbox oil out. At least you will get to see how dirty it is or if it smells burnt, although that's unlikely as you have no gearbox issues.
I would then change the gearbox oil again after maybe a 100 miles of use. After replacing another half your oil should be very clean. I did it in my Discovery 3 and after the second change the oil in the gearbox was very clean and golden looking. Nice videos, keep them coming 😊👍
Good on you for being up to doing your own maintenance, what you have done up to now would sting the purse strings at an LR dealership or an LR specialist. Hope the damper sorts out the Rangie for you, Looking forward to the next vid.
Hi Sam, did you get it resolved. I'd say it is down to the brand of the shocks that can vary ride quality. Did you happen to tell the car you changed to alloy wheel size as this is done and the ride height can be reset and calibrated at each corner from memory taken from the centre of each wheel hub to the highest point of the underside of the wheel arch lips. The ride could be stiffening to compensate for an incorrect height. Make sure to post when you resolve it.
Not sure how much hassle it would be but if you swap dampers and solenoids over and see if the stiffness goes to the rear left.
That is a good idea sir!
Awesome video again Sam! I’m having deployable side steps fitted today 😦 wish me luck! Will send some pictures of the new interior over as well, it came out great.
Please do!
Another cracking vid... Enjoying following the progress
Interesting stuff, I understood the suspension was normally running at its stiffest and it only opened the valve and got softer when required, rather than having a stiffer calibration for more sporty driving.
My Dream But Frightened To Death With Older Range Rovers (no way could afford new) But Loving The Videos Thanks
I'm glad you can enjoy the Range Rover vicariously through RUclips though... at least you're not paying the bills for it!
These vids are great, but doing nothing to ease my regret at selling my TDV8 a few years back .:) :)
I have one I'd sell you.
@@Patricia-yn2hi Many thanks, if I was to go for one, I would try and buy my old one back first. Thanks though!
I only just came across your video. Very well done and detailed. It convinced me that you know what you're at. I have a 4.4L Vogue L322. The suspension shows a fault once I start moving and request that I drive at 30mph max with a red caution. It then drops and the vehicle begins to bounce. Once I pull over, turn it off and restart the car, it resets but soon does it again or sometimes will not drop for over 50kms. I was considering coil conversion when I came across your video. Can you help?
Great video! We need more good L322 content on here. As a 4.4 owner (I previously had the 3.6) I'll be interested to see how your suspension maintenance goes. I really envy your ability to do this yourself. I have neither the tools nor the workspace to attempt anything myself so I'm at the mercy of my main dealer. Here in Germany good indepdendent LR specialists are few and far between. Subbed!
Thanks for your comments mate, and I'm glad to see that I have overseas viewers as well as the UK lot!
If you start out small with maintenance, your confidence and skills will steadily grow. The same goes for your tools and equipment - just buy pieces as you go, and it will soon build up.
Cheers,
Sam
Talk about quality video- another one in the bag!
LOl, I was just in the same compartment this morning on my 2006 RR trying to track down a fault in my parking sensors, by plugging in a PDC module I got on ebay as well. Sigh no luck so it's time to take off the bumpers....
Thanks very much some great videos and a fascinating channel. I'm looking forward to seeing the project develop. Keep up the good work !
Always worth changing suspension axle components in pairs, I’d never change just one damper unit.
Same with brakes discs and pads.
I agree - it's a little more tempting to avoid replacing in pairs when they cost over £200 each, but still definitely a good rule.
Great video, I love this mini series of yours with your RR
Thanks mate, I'm enjoying making it!
@@SamsMotors Just don't be one of those 'straight piped my...' RUclipsrs hehe
excited to see what is next! maybe an off road day?
I own rr l322 since 2013, I had all of them from the td6 till the 5.0, now i have a 2011 l322 and I had your same problem, the car was bit hard instead being smooth. It ended after I changed everything and I mean air struts front and rear and dynamic oil suspension front and rear.
What I can say is those dynamics age very badly even if they do not leak (mine were leaking oil) they loose sensibility after years and years with that weight on top.
What I can say is that l322 was sensibly smoother before being equipped with dynamic oil suspensions but remind it makes huge difference what alloy and tyres you use, personally I drive mine with 21 inches alloy and it is not smooth as my previous was with 19 inches alloys... hope it helps
Interesting!
So you replaced the front struts and rear dampers?
The strange thing about mine is that even though the rear dampers have been replaced, the hard ride on the rear still persists. The front rides hard too, so I assumed it was an issue with the electronics or control system of the dampers, as opposed to the dampers themselves.
My current plan is to replace all of the dampers/struts with non-variable units from an earlier L322. Like you say, it's often said that they rode better than the later ones anyway.
Love the puns on your banners haha great vids mate.
Thanks 😁
Great video keep them coming. Enjoying the progression
Thanks! Will do!
Good show Sam and the music ain’t bad too, I’m learning...
Great video as always Sam, really appreciate the effort you make.
Glad you enjoyed it!
have a look at AA silencers ltd Jaguar XKR active suspension fault on RUclips i don't know if this will help as it's the same Module. Enjoyed your video's, oh the joys of working outdoors.
Great video! I have the same issue (2011 l322) and had both rear dampers replaced. My next task was going to be to record the suspension movement on each corner to see whether it was front being choppy. Apparently the ecu can still send 1.5a but if the seals / solenoid is gone it won’t operate correctly
Oh wow! I didn't expect to find anyone with the same problem.
So did your rear damper replacement improve it?
My front struts were replaced in 2017 so not that old... here's hoping it is just that rear right one causing all the issues!
@Sam's Motor & Machine Have you tried resetting the suspension adaptions? It’s hard to tell whether the new dampers improved the ride: I had a bucked wheel which was causing the ecu to think I had wheel hop and stiffen the damper as a corrective measure - made motorway driving unbearable. Swapping the wheels addressed that but I still have this choppy ride- tempted to replace the front dampers but they’re not cheap! Ps, I bought the second cheapest L322 in the Uk (I think!)
Hello Sam. Great video. Can you please recomend some quality airbag manufacturer? Didnt actually hear the name! Btw. do you still have the RR TDV8?
definately replace shocks in pairs, good luck :)
Great vids, loved it very much!
About the stiffness in the rear suspension - maybe you should try to replace the shock absorbers?
Thankyou mate. I have replaced the rear shock now, new video coming this weekend to cover that.
Sam
The nitty and the gritty- this is the type of fault I'd have when I buy one :::: great video::::::
Haha thanks. Do you mean this is a desirable fault to have, or you'd probably have this fault just because sod's law? 😂
I don’t know for sure but I think when you change the module it requires programming it in. I don’t know if it’ll fix the issue as it sounds more like a damper issue but it’s just something I think that needs doing.
You're probably right, I did think this as I've seen an option in SDD for 'calibrate new adaptive damping module'. However it didn't throw up any faults/codes when I just plugged it in...?
@@SamsMotors It probably wouldn’t throw up any faults as the air suspension and the module are working. I think the SDD calibration is required to reset all the values and as it says calibrate the module with the air suspension system and then carried out a self test. Then if there are faults found in the self test once calibrated then that will show any issues
Yeah, I'll give this a go later this week. Thanks!
@@SamsMotors no worries! I don’t know if it will fix your problem as it sounds like struts might be your issue however it might help the performance of the air suspension system. This is also a great series to watch!
I’m changing the back air bags on mine, working on the drive as well. Weather permitting. How long did each side take ?
Bilstein list 2 damper for this model, one with electronic damping control, the other without. Might be worth checking the company fitted the correct damper, there again if they hadn't the ecu would probably have thrown up a fault code! So maybe just ignore me. I was looking at the price of the front strut & airbags for edc. Eye wateringly expensive. 😬
BTW love your videos, and love the L322 4.4 TD V8. 👍
Hi Mike, yeah they do! The first thing I checked when I got the car delivered was the part number of the new damper, thankfully it checks out as a VDC one. And yes, I wouldn't want to replace a whole front strut 😬 luckily my two fronts were replaced at the end of 2017 with genuine LR ones, so hopefully will be good for a while.
Cheers,
Sam
That's a bonus then Sam.
Did i hear the air bag costs 60 pound each? Thats not much i thought when RR has issues with the suspensions its very expensive and its almost certain that at some point you will have issues with it?
Have you considered a repair to the drivers seat? Refurb or a second hand replacement?
I'm hopefully going to be getting a 2nd hand replacement for it soon, stay tuned...
It’s got to be the mismatched rear dampers. You’ve got matching airbags, fully working electrics, so all that’s left is the dampers. I’ve always been advised to change suspension bits in pairs so they totally match. I’d also be tempted to buy an original fitment pair rather than a non original to match the other new non original. Expensive but you may end up with a matching pair of Bilstein dampers you hate the feel of if you stick with matching the other new one.
Did you make that l322 office chair!? Love it!
I did! It was comfy, but much too heavy to move around, and ended up crushing the wheels that I put on it.
Hi Sam, I thoroughly enjoy your very informative videos. I'm looking to buy my RR with the same 4.4 diesel. Could you please tell me what sort of MPG both in town and highway you get?
Coming soon, thanks!
Hi Sam, I have been chasing the same rear end harshness issue with mine... a 2010 3.6TDV8 which also has the adaptive dynamics, All bushes looked fine to me and i could not make them do anything strange with a pry bar so i bought two brand new bilstein shocks and fitted them = exactly the same which i was not happy about but hey i guess i have some spare shocks now... anyway i think the rear subframe bushes are quite possibly the issue... im going to be replacing mine very soon but i reckon youll probably beat me to it
Interesting, that's two others that seem to have a similar issue.
Out of interest, have you replaced your rear height sensors in chasing this issue?
I'm now thinking they may have something to do with it, as the VDS system takes an input from the height sensors to determine wheel motion.
@@SamsMotors No haven't done anything with sensors. I might go over the data from them as best I can with the gap tool.., I do have a new spare genuine sensor on hand
@@SamsMotors Fyi i did some runs logging voltage data from the height sensors and all looks ok... Smooth & proportional
@@dave216dx I did the same with SDD over the weekend and it also looked OK.
With your IID tool you should be able to do an adaptive dynamics / CVD calibration procedure, which is done while driving from what I have read. There's a guy on the FFRR forum called GraemeS who has posted about it previously, and apparently it makes a big difference.
SDD also has a calibration function which I'm yet to try.
@@SamsMotors Hi Sam i have done the calibration a few times... The issue I find with it is no explanation of exactly how it should be performed... As in what sort of terrain you should drive over in the calibration window which is brief. Also what does it do exactly?.. compensate for component wear I think?
I'll check the workshop manual maybe it's in there but I missed it
alright mate
were do you get the parts
Have you tryed the cab mounts on the axel
Just stumbled across your channel sam it’s great stuff uk based stuff 👍 can I ask what the software is that you used to get the wiring diagrams 1.42 into the video ??
Are you looking to do a transmission or diff oil chain at any stage? Also they can suffer from aircon issues with the variable valve going off on the blink, Be interesting to know if you have the same issue. Have to say i did like your reaction to the power....i do the same! Feels the same even with 5 up. Love the videos so far!
I'm looking to do all the oils in the Spring. I'm not sure whether to get the transmission 'mega flushed' or to just drop the oil and replace it myself. I haven't got any HVAC system problems at the moment (touch wood) but I've got no idea if the air con works currently. Thanks for watching!
how far will a software lift will get you? what are your thoughts about the 2.5 inch proud rhino lift?
Hi, any place I can find a video on how to change oil on the L322 TDV8, 4.4 (not suction)?
If you can wait a week my next video will cover an oil service on my RR. I'm going to be using a suction pump on mine but I will show where the oil drain is too.
Hello. Thanks for this nice video.
Do You evtentually have the tightening torques for the strut parts at the front? Maybe in this great PDF document that is shown in Your video. Can You send this to me?
That would be great.
Greetings Fritz Hoffmann from Germany
Hi Fritz, email me at samsmotorandmachine@gmail.com - I'll send you the full workshop manual
Really great video! Well done!
What brand of bags did you go for?
Any chance of getting the old shock back and fitting it so see if that makes a difference?
Another good video, impressive subscriber jump too! well done
Cheers mate!
1 thing this video did prove is there is no difference between a cheap air spring vs a more expensive 1 😉 I always buy the cheaper aftermarket parts for my l322 and never have any problems 🤷♂️just as you experienced there upgrading to a more expensive air spring didn’t make any difference lol I’ve just had to buy a front air spring now for oem or even close to that your looking at £500 but I’ve just purchased one for a laughable £130 including strut when people say to me I bet that’s expensive to fix I just burst out laughing 😂😂😂😂 anyway love your videos and nice l322 👍
Sam, did you find the issue? Was it the damper?
Good video again, what was the brand of the air bags you fitted?
Thanks - they are Aerosus.
Could you swap the rear dampers about and see if the problem follows? Before you pay 200 quid
Wish I could, but they're sided unfortunately. Don't think they'll fit!
What's the verdict for this? Was it the right dampener?
Hey! Ive bougt a 2010 3.6 tdv8 thats fully working but. Ive would like to fully change out the original suspension to a fully Arnott one. But i have the problem of not knowing if the car is electronically dampend?
I have that module installed in my car as well. But isent that installed in all Rangies?
Ive now ordered a set of front suspensions to my car and are starting to think that im about to recive the wrong setup. Do you have any tips were i could find the right information about my cars existing suspension?
Hi Emil,
The easiest way for you to find out is to open the bonnet of your car. If you have black wiring connections to the tops of the suspension struts, you have the electronic/variable damping system. On a 2010 car I would definitely expect this to be the case.
Sam
@@SamsMotors Hi!
Thank you so much for the quick reply.
Im gonna go out and check strait away.
I like all your videos btw. They are very informative and a great inspiration.
Thanx alot you saved me a lot of time and money.
Just one more question? What was it in the end that fixed your suspension problem, was it the bilstein chocks or the calibration? Or did i miss something?
Iv a 09 range rover sport iv a very small leak in the rear im ripping the air out and putting coils in
That’s a bit of a shame
The coil kit is 1250 euro sam i just feel when they get to this age putting coils will make her more reliable the engine is my next job
You could do a pretty good refresh of the air system for that money, but at the end of the day it's your car! Good luck with her 👍
@@SamsMotors to refresh all the air thats renew it all is just under 3k iv a small leak in the rear now to replace the 2 struts with 2 new struts is nearly 400 a corner and 300 labour and after all that this is ireland bad winter around my area and i could be repeating myself im just going to make the jeep reliable now
Check out Aerosus, they have good prices when you buy 2+ items at once, and you can use my code SAM15 for 15 euro off on top. You can also replace just the bags as opposed to the whole strut, which will make it cheaper still.
Software programming do I do that and I’m sure to crack your problem I own one that worked for mine mine was a 2008
Software programming? Can you explain further?
All..assuming the ebay adaptive damping module was also not faulty!!
Great style and content.
Much appreciated!
Those wheels & tyres are badass 🤟
Hi mate how you finding the new rear bags? I've heard mixed things about the brand you used saying they don't last and no good cheers
Update to come on this Craig, but it's not happy news... 😔
O no really😐 Looking forward to more videos on the range rover mate 👍
How are those Aerosus springs holding up? Good price but I haven't heard many good things.
Still going well, think I'm at about 15,000 miles since this video.
@@SamsMotors Thank you, sir. Looking forward to when you cover those big off-road lights you teased a while back.
Have you checked height level sensor? I have ns rear with issues and has caused similar problems but not all the time
Quite a good suggestion actually, as the active damping module does take inputs from the height sensors. If the sensor was giving erroneous readings (i.e. jumping up and down) it could upset it I suppose... I will plug in with SDD and check the live data from it. Cheers!
Where do you find these drawings/diagrams of the system(s)?
I just bought a 200& Range Rover HSE and the front air suspension bags had leaks. I just replaced them both and it seems that the pressure is being released from the back bags to the front bags.. so the front of the car keeps going up and I cannot get the bags to release air. I think that may be the reason why they need to be replaced in the first place. Cause they probably popped..
And I’m not sure what’s causing that some type of valve that is not closing between the front and back. So when the back of the car drops the front raises, and then if I put more air in the back and then lower it again, it raises the front even higher.
They’re from a very useful workshop manual which I can send you if you email me. Address is on the “About” tab of the channel.
It sounds like one of the three solenoid valves are faulty. There is one at the pump/tank, one in the rear right wheel well and one in the front right wheel well.