4:19 attention ppl that think watching lots of the same thing is pointless.There is always a gem somewhere. I've watched many How To Solder vids.This is the 1st time I've heard an explanation for the "short hook" at the end of the solder.BRILLANT!HAha. I know how to solder.But I also like to see other ppl techniques.And this guy seems to be running on all 8 cylinders.GREAT job Skill Builder.
You are the first guy that I have seen who mentioned twisting the solder in a zig zag fashion , in order to get the proper lengths ready for several back to back soldering joints . You are also the first ( or one of the first ) who explained the use of dry rags and then wet rags , to clean up the joint after you have soldered .
I just watched about 10 videos on soldering in an atempt to gain useful tips to improve my basic soldering abilities. This was, by far, the best of the lot.
Brilliant video. Thanks very much. Some soldering tricks of the trade that I will use for life. I especially like the way of estimating how much solder per joint as in the past, like so many, I have kept feeding solder in. The capillary action was a revelation too! I have now got your vids as my "go to" vids for all things plumbing. Keep up the great work.
I was struggling to cap a cold water pipe that had no shutoff and as a result had no water in the house until this was resolved. It was my very first soldering job ever, and was trying to heat the solder instead of heating the fitting. Once I saw how easy it is when done right I returned to my task and got it on my next try. A little ugly, but it's holding - Thanks!
Your video helped me very much. I had to soldier 7 pieces together and everything came out nice and sealed from the first attempt. Thank you so very much.
+SipeskClassics I am really pleased to hear that and it proves that being methodical and taking your time is the best way. Better than having to go back over the work trying to fix things.
This is the best pipe soldering video I have ever seen, I know you are extremely experienced so perhaps you make it look a lot easier than it is but it inspires confidence to give it a go. I tried in the past and couldn't get the solder to seal around the entire gap and that put me offm even after watching videos. Maybe I will try again.
Thank you very much for taking the trouble to comment. We try hard and it helps us to know what you think. Any suggestions for future videos are welcome.
Skill Builder You are most welcome. In that case, can you please do a video on the subject of identifying whether a thermostatic valve needs replacing or the radiator itself and how to work out which one is causing a problem with the radiator not getting hot when the rest in the house are? It would be useful if the video also covered the subject of removing and replacing a radiator from start to finish (not just removing the actual radiator but the other steps you must take first before you can remove it from the plumbing).
Have been told "plenty of flux" along with "use a damp rag and spray bottle of water"... both go against what's said here. Will try the dry way this weekend after doing the wet method last weekend and see which fittings leak first :) Thanks for the video, nice and clear and helpful.
+Rich Pyke Too much flux often leads to corrosion problems and encourages the solder to run down the pipe. Most flux manufacturers say to use it sparingly even though they would sell more if you slapped it on. You can see if the solder has sucked up into the joint just by looking. Check it has run all the way round. The point about the wet cloth is not proven because nobody has ever confirmed it officially. The dry rag cleans any solder runs up and helps wipe it back to the mouth of the fitting. You do need a wet rag at some point to clean any residual flux off the joint. This is not gospel it is just my way of doing things and all plumbers find their own techniques.
@@SkillBuilder You're a good lad too Roger. BTW, had my first delve into soldering today. I'm trying to solder microbore with a coupler. I applied flux to the two pipes and stuck on and heated the coupler up. But when I went to solder, the solder wouldn't wick into the joint. I cleaned the fittings as best I could with 120g sandpaper and then wire wool. What could be the cause of this? The pipes are laid horizontal in-situ.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk ruclips.net/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/видео.html We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
By all means start cleaning with emery cloth - but ALWAYS finish with scotchbrite nylon pad. Reason? Emery can leave tiny carborundum particles on the surface of the copper which 9a) Reduce the manipulation of the joint due to friction 9even with flux applied) and (b) can prevent 100% "wetting" of the copper surfaces with solder.
I like to take the flux brush and wipe the joint while its still hot to pull the solder to the edge, ensuring a clean solid seal as well as a uniform look. Just helps with presentation. Good video though
Hi Roger. The WRAS Regulations say you are not permitted to put any flux in the fittings. I am sure this is from 2011. Love your videos as you know and I am oldschool like yourself. I just wanted to say because this is an instructional video. Keep up the good work my friend!
Great video education. Thanks. I watch a lot of do-it-yourself videos, and yours is one of the best. Now, let me grab my torch...and if I do much more of this, then I might have get an Omat.
Great video! Just got serious about learning to sweat pipes and this helps a lot! I feel like I can now fix ANY plumbing issues I have at my house now. Thanks!
fantastic. thanks for this. i need to teach it to some students next week. like driving i had picked up some bad points. Great tips here to such as bending the solder to the diameter of the pipe.
I always remove the burr as I reckon its a possible cause for noise. I like your blowlamp! Water in pipes - big problem, sometimes hard or impossible to get rid in existing systems, in which case if theres room I prefer compression fittings. What do you think of solder ring fittings? I always use these for soldered joints. You could mention chrome plated pipes too. Simply the necessity of sanding down to the copper to solder.
Damp rag! I was watching one lad running copper from new meter installations after they had renewed the gas main in the street. After soldering, he almost immediately poured water over the joint. I really thought the thermal shock and rapid contraction of the copper would crack the joint, especially with lead free solder. How it held the drop test is beyond me. So much for Gas Safe improving standards.
I have seen a copper gas line hold up with no solder in the joint. If it is fluxed and the copper is pushed hard into the fitting it can hold for a while. I have always maintained that the drop test is inadequate. It is only because gas is low pressure that it holds.
Yes he is a good guy, steady Eddy. They work on massive houses with six bathrooms, underfloor heating, heat pumps, solar thermal. The trick is to have a good drawing so you don't end up crossing pipes over then label everything. That way you don't get gas coming out when you flush the w.c.
Its good Roger, but if you guys are soldering I would advise not to flux the inside of the pipe, as this will push to the inside and we don’t want flux in our heating system or blocking our shower filters..etc. Also I’d advise not wiping the joint straight away as this can knock the pipe,as there is a point as the solder starts forming back to a solid, at this point any movement can cause leaks. let it cool down for a bit, then wipe down with a damp rag and shine your joint with wire wool…perfect. just trying too help…we are plumbers…keep up the good work Roger
+Hancock and Brown Thanks, it is always good to get comments and we can all learn from eachother. Are you saying don't put flux on the inside of the fitting? I wasn't aware that it was inside the pipe but a bit will be pushed in around the end and that could cause a solder run on the inside. The flux most plumbers use is water soluble and I flush the pipes out before connecting up showers etc. The heating system is always flushed out, that is good practice, we then run it hot and get rid of that before sticking the inhibitor in. That said a lot of plumbers use way too much flux and I might be one of them at times.
+Skill Builder yep inside the fitting, you can skip..it will solder fine I promise..even with flushing best not to get to in there..its a bigger issue when people solder gas pipes as it just sits there eating through the pipe…it was always the done thing fluxing inside and out.years ago but as boiler get less robust, less flux is one of the many steps to protecting pipe work.(mind you even a over flux copper pipework system will out last plastic pipes). we have a couple of videos You and your follows might find interesting. Cheers George
+Skill Builder we always use la-co flux, but don't rely on its self cleaning, we still clean every joint. But it is nice to have a self cleaning flux just incase somewhere's missed. I have been trying out powerflow flux. seems ok maybe a little to strong on self cleaning, but its great for getting metal marks off ceramic
I learned this the hard way when I was new. I ran a bunch of copper and fluxed it up planning to solder it all up at once. This was a bad idea since I got pulled off to do another job and had to come back the next day. When I showed up in the morning all of my unsoldered but fluxed joints had green crust all over them. Was not a good day to say the least.
Sir thanks. What is the principle of water flow? Is it just gravity, which makes all the pressure? Is that why water tanks are made at the top of the houses? What if water tank is not at the top of the house? would that be possible?
I always like to direct my flame up ward, it's good practice because heat has tendency to rise, copper is a good conductor tho so it isn't critical unless you are working on larger pipe like 3 inch. For a rookie wondering how long to heat the pipe if you see your flame turning green your definitely hot enough.
Couple questions. 1.Say you got a pipe.Some couplers in there, a union etc.Time to solder all that.What is rule of thumb in where to start soldering.Top down or bottom and work up each fitting soldering? 2.When heating say a coupling, where exactly does tip of heat go.Middle of coupler or right at joint some on coupler some on pipe? 3.So, heat one side and on other apply solder and go up down a tad and this will follow the heat in a complete circle of solder? 4.A 1/2 inch to 1/2 ball valve.Right where pipe goes in heat that end of ball valve on ball valve. Apply solder to other side or on a ball valve you have to follow the whole circle while soldering? 5.Input on putting unions on hot cold lines in house to water tank... Once I cut them lines (hot cold from house), I'm sure they will be damp inside before I put unions on for new tank.What do I do, just let the pipes air out few hr's before solder?
I always work from the top down. The flux and solder tends to run downwards and by the time you do the bottom it is usually heated almost to the point where it is ready to solder. The trick is not to have too much flux otherwise the solder runs down the pipe below the fitting.
You have to be careful with ball valves, they are now lead free and more fragile. . I put most of the heat on the copper pipe and then onto the ball valve joint a short time and get it just hot enough. As soon as the solder melts, take the heat away. I am not a plumber, so I also wrap a wet rag around the body of the ball valve to protect it from getting too hot. A plumber by trade has the experience to know how to solder in the valve without damaging it and without a wet rag wrap. It is safest to have the valve in the open position when soldering it.
@@DAS-Videos , thanks for reply.No plumber here as well.Just a 42 year old guy each day to make ends meet.Lucky I have worked on electronics for decade's.So, soldering there and some skill.Course I knew copper and solder plumbing etc differs.Little short story with a good ending I least am proud of.Four, five months ago 40 gal hot water tank leaked bad.It was toast no doubt from inside out.Sat for weeks with no hot water.Got a 40 gal and of course much taller.Along side with differed from the 80s tank.Yes, 80s tank.Another words, the hot and cold from house has to be cut good ways up.No way around out.Had to add elbows, unions and changed the crappie turn valve for a good ball.Let me put it this way, there was alot to solder.I could of went easy on a good amount with flex line screw and go and shark bites.I felt to do it old fashion and secure in knowing thus, solder.Never been down the road.Spent about a month in study reading and all else on my issues to learn.Worried about the solder subject and heat etc.Cold solder joints ( which I know of in electronic world ), the like.One stop was here when I was looking along with books so on.I used sense as some vids was sorta meh, I don't know clown vids. Brought all the proper tools and thick wall copper and valve.Tested on a section in barn first.Course my issue was touch the solder to pipe and would not melt just crumble up eat away $ and that was sucking.Found that problem and away we go.Now my math sucks which was interesting in getting all just right to fit.Copper is not cheap in wasteful cut lol.Mind you I did this all on my own.Every cut first try fit snug.Did not toast the valve.Did not black or toast the pipe.Each solder joint went all the way around with no drips on pipe.No mounds of solder on the joints.The trick to learn was how to make the solder go around.Heat sucking or attracting it so to say.Touch here, go there and rest follows thing.All my joints did that first try.After a beer is the test of flip the switch.Tell the old lady I have 20 leaks lol.Flipped valve and worried like hell.Not one leak.I check it few times a day and as of today months later, warm showers and no leaks.Old lady says for years I break stuff in the fix of stuff.I mentioned that today and she said yeah.I said well, you are taking a hot shower are you not...........
Ok having the pipes out on the bench for the demo - but real life is in corners, at arms length, under cabinets and the blowlamp needs to be upside down. Its invariably necessary to prevent fire damage to nearby flammable items - requiring a heatproof mat which should be taped temporarliy (aluminum foil tape) to the surrounding areas. I like the mat with the hole though - but i think this would only have limited application.
The same applies in the U.K but in 40 odd years on site I have never seen a single case of anyone doing it and, for the most part, there aren't leaks. That little rounded end is such a snug fit in the fitting that iI have known it hold up even without solder. I am not sure the codes of practice keep up with technology.
The only thing l do in addition to sanding the parts is to thenclean them up methylated spirits before applying the fluc to ensure there is no oil or grease.
+Simple Life overpaid??? yummy friend don't know what your talking about and when if you watched this video and think your a plumber now then wait until you flood your house condo apartment / dwelling you live in then you will be able tp really spend some coin
+100% percent i'd guess your the over paid plumber.. but to be honest, yes anyone can learn and do this their self.. i'm a mechanic and the same apply to my field. however, this is basic stuff and when the jobs get more complex the over paid plumber/mechanic/etc. will always be in demand.
+mattp1482 I don't see why people are so keen to call a plumber 'over-paid'. You learn a trade and go out for what you can get in a free market place and if someone thinks they can do it cheaper and better you have to compete against them. It is the same the world over. In my time I have priced many jobs and come unstuck because of complications. Trying to remove air and sludge in systems can often turn a quick job into a long one and the customer never wants to pay the extra. There are some days when I have earned less than the minimum wage.
well i'll agree with both, but being a plumber and seeing some of the shit people do is absolutely ridiculous. i mean this is simplest of the basic its a dam solder joint , goto school for 5 years bust your balls and we earn our money the more people do and fuckup themselves the more we have to charge . theres a lot to it but don't be a blind fuck wit and just call me overpaid you have no idea what i make if I'm licensed an apprentice or what just another internet moron that i have now gave in and le waste my time
Since your still applying flame and working down, wouldn't the extra flame desolder the others? Why don't the others desolder when your still applying heat?
Cooldude That is a very good question and it worried me when I started. Cappilary action sucks the solder into the void and even when it is molten it stays there. It is all to do with close fit between the fitting and the copper. Also the fact that the pipe below is unfluxed means the solder doesn't want to run on the dry pipe. This is why the amount of flux is important. If you put too much flux on the fittiing and it runs down you will have a Christmas tree of solder balls down the pipe and also balls of solder in the pipe. You see and hear it a lot.
Is it not a good idea to have an aerosol fire extinguisher to hand as well, incase you end up setting alight something? If so what would you recommend?
Heat rising is not really and issue with copper because it conducts, If you do the bottom joint first and then the top the bottom will continue to be heated and can run down the tube. I run the top and, very often the solder runs to the bottom through the inside and the bottom is almost done when you get to it.
Great video. I need to adjust some old pipework by un-soldering, cutting and then re-soldering. Will the capillary action work OK on a fitting that has been un-soldered or should I replace the fitting(elbow) at the same time?
+Gavin Andrews HI Gavin. The answer to that is probably. Sometimes it works treat but other times I find that it doesn't quite seal. The pipe will be fine but you will have to make sure there are no bumps and lumps of solder that might stop the fitting going on. If is is all clean and you use self cleaning flux and feed in new solder then it should go well but there is nothing to beat new fittings on clean pipe.
This may be a bit late but always replace the fittings, start by adding flux before you hea the fitting up and you may have to add more flux as you go. As for the pipe, once you've removed the fitting heat it back up and wipe all the solder off with a dry rag the your left with a smooth tinned piece of copper just makes sure it's clean and your ready to go.
As I haven't had to dabble with copper for a few years and may have to solder some soon, I watched this to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything and would like to say it was well formatted, you come across as a bloke who really knows his stuff. Out of curiosity, do you have any thoughts on the idea of using bread in wet pipes to prevent water getting into the fitting? I've seen a few people do this and even used it myself some years ago, but have heard differing thoughts as to its effectiveness and the potential consequences. If you're unfamiliar with it, the idea goes that pushing bread a little way into a damp pipe will prevent any more water making its way towards the fitting when soldering, but it should be obliterated by the water pressure when it is turned back on.
Sorry for the late reply I have only just picked this up. I have used the bread trick many times. Now we have push fits there is not so much call for it but I always used to be ramming bread down the pipe to stop a let by. If it suddenly lets go you can end up with a flash of steam so you need to make sure you are not on the end of the pipe. All good fun
What is flux and what is it for? Is it cooking oil? Wax? Does it help suck in the solder? Is it a slick area for the solder to get in there? Never had anyone explain it. "FLUX, USE IT. YAAAAA... "
Dear Mr. Roger Bisby, I saw your video and it helped me. Thank you for posting it. I have a couple of questions, however. Within the last week, I replaced a frost free hose bib with shut off in the line before it (basement). I used propane, with a Bernzomatic basic use brass propane, pencil torch. One of the 45º fittings is weeping on only one side. (Sigh). ¿Is it possible to re-heat the one side (only) and apply more silver solder to seal that connection? (The leak is only on one side of one fittings, and I would keep the other side covered/protected with a wet rag). ¿Or, is it necessary to remove the whole fitting, clean the pipe ends, are-sand, clean, flux, and solder a new fitting? The leak is a very small, only one fitting's affected, and it's located on the back side of where I applied heat with the torch. (I think I did not have enough heat). ¿What do you think, please? Any and all comments welcomed. God Bless. tonyd\.
You can never tell if it is something like a hair from a flux brush or a bit of dirt but plumbers often have to re-heat a joint. Make sure there is no water in the pipe on either side of the joint. Don't bother with the wet rag just heat the whole joint and touch some solder onto the hot fitting with a good dollop on self cleaning flux on the end of the solder. Do that on both ends of the fitting and then just let it cool. You should be good after that. If it is still leaking heat it up, knock it off and clean the pipe and use a new fitting but I don;t think you will have to. Let me know how it goes. Others can learn from it
Dear Mr. Bisby, thank you so much for the counsel and directions. I think all the water's out, but I'm not completely sure. I have the waste open at the shut off near by (~4 inches away). However, I only got a little water out, seemingly, not that much, and expected more. It's not draining anymore. I'll assume it's dry in there and try want you said. By self cleaning flux, I assume you mean water soluble flux. I don't have any of that, but the regular type, purchased ~8-10 years ago, (and still relatively unused). Please let me know of any additional suggestions, kindly, if you are amenable. Thank you very much. (I am delighted that you responded). Thank you so much. God Bless your home. tonyd\.
Thanks Jacob. We are currently putting together a whole series of plumbing videos giving some in depth information on fitting bathrooms and showers. They should be out very soon.
What if the pipe has a slight sweating to it after attaching the new piping to fix a leak? Would I remove the piece and redo the fitting again? How do I know it’s sealed? It’s a hot water pipe that is vertical located closer to the top of my ceiling in my garage.
Misty Ubina sweating could be condensation due to temperature difference of the water in the pipe to the temperature outside of the pipe in the garage. This temperature difference causes the moisture in the air in the garage to condense forming water on the pipe. Hope this helps you. :)
Just seen a video for a product (with WRAS approval marked on the pack) which connects end feed copper without heat.... not sure if I'd trust it, but then I didn't trust plastic fittings when they first appeared and now use them quite a lot. Any experience of this stuff? I think it's called "just for copper" or something. It seems an easier method... if it works as well or lasts as long as good old solder.
+Choppington Otter I was asked to review that product if it is the same one and I asked them what kind of public liability insurance they had to cover failures. It turned out they didn't have any which means the product warranty covered the product and not consequential loss. If you check out the insurance cover on JG Speedfit for example it is for millions of pounds so you will never be in a position where you flood a block of flats and nobody pays up. That is assuming you use the liners and don't leave them out like some plumbers seem to. Oh yeah the WRAS approval covers non-contamination of drinking water.
If what you are referring to is what we have here called Sharkbite fittings, then the plastic insert is only meant to stay in the fitting if you are using it with PEX (polyethylene).
This is something different. I believe Choppington is talking about a type of glue that you put in a copper to copper connector. The WRAS approval says it won't contaminate but there is no meaningful guarantee on the holding power.
Oh. I have never seen or heard of such a thing. I'm going to guess using that is a no no with my local building codes. And if it's not it surely wouldn't fly with my boss.
i like to add some flux on to the joint after i have soldered it to make the joint cool down and make the copper cleaner and more presentable and using a dry cloth to clean it off is this a bad practice?
+tank Thinker I know a lot of plumbers who do that to make sure they get a clean bead of solder around the mouth of the fitting. If it works for you then it is fine. It is all about a leak-free joint.
You have to get all the water out of it. Then clean it as best you can and when you get it hot drop a nice dollop of self cleaning flux on the joint. It should run into the fitting. You can often pull it apart and clean it, then solder on a new fitting but sometimes just heating it and dropping self cleaning flux on and a dab of solder will seal it.
I cant find a single video showing how to fix the soldering when it doesn't work. I've soldered one vertical washing machine line about five times. I keep getting pinhole size leaks. Do i just melt the union and pull it apart and re-sand it or do i have to cut the joint out and keep replacing it. So damn frustrated. I brazed pipes every day in HVAC class for a year but soldering just keeps failing. Help!
***** Hi If it has failed that many times best to cut the joint out and fit a new one. I don't suppose there is water in the pipe so it is likely that you just don't hit the hot pipe with the solder at the point when it wants to suck it up. Keep trying and you will feel very happy when you get it done.
Skill Builder got it done. Replaced the water shutoffs for the washer, the main house shut off, the PRV and two outside. The map torch flame wasn't tight enough. Bought the smaller propane? It had a tighter cone. Takes longer to heat it up but its harder to overheat it. Can't afford the Oxy Acetaline. Just took some patience. Thanks for replying back.
Sjee,your still soldering pipes?Thats old fashion man!They dont do that anymore over here in Europe!We use fitting knies nowadays!(dont know if its the right translation>)Just a kind of rubber ring that is pressed on and it dont leak if done right.
4:19 attention ppl that think watching lots of the same thing is pointless.There is always a gem somewhere. I've watched many How To Solder vids.This is the 1st time I've heard an explanation for the "short hook" at the end of the solder.BRILLANT!HAha. I know how to solder.But I also like to see other ppl techniques.And this guy seems to be running on all 8 cylinders.GREAT job Skill Builder.
Great video. Thanks. My dad taught me how to solder copper pipes. He’d spend lots of time on the cleaning part which is crucial
You are the first guy that I have seen who mentioned twisting the solder in a zig zag fashion , in order to get the proper lengths ready for several back to back soldering joints . You are also the first ( or one of the first ) who explained the use of dry rags and then wet rags , to clean up the joint after you have soldered .
Master craftsman techniques and tips. Thanks!
I don't know how you do it ! You do the job, explain it and entertain everyone at the same time! Brilliant!
I just watched about 10 videos on soldering in an atempt to gain useful tips to improve my basic soldering abilities. This was, by far, the best of the lot.
Thank you. That is good to know, it encourages us.
Brilliant video. Thanks very much. Some soldering tricks of the trade that I will use for life. I especially like the way of estimating how much solder per joint as in the past, like so many, I have kept feeding solder in. The capillary action was a revelation too! I have now got your vids as my "go to" vids for all things plumbing. Keep up the great work.
I was struggling to cap a cold water pipe that had no shutoff and as a result had no water in the house until this was resolved. It was my very first soldering job ever, and was trying to heat the solder instead of heating the fitting. Once I saw how easy it is when done right I returned to my task and got it on my next try. A little ugly, but it's holding - Thanks!
Glad to know that. You can only get better with practice
Your video helped me very much. I had to soldier 7 pieces together and everything came out nice and sealed from the first attempt. Thank you so very much.
+SipeskClassics I am really pleased to hear that and it proves that being methodical and taking your time is the best way. Better than having to go back over the work trying to fix things.
Super helpful. Really liked the inset close-up window. Really takes your production above others'!
Thanks. The insets are useful but 30% of the views are on a phone so we tend to try and avoid too many.
This is the best pipe soldering video I have ever seen, I know you are extremely experienced so perhaps you make it look a lot easier than it is but it inspires confidence to give it a go. I tried in the past and couldn't get the solder to seal around the entire gap and that put me offm even after watching videos. Maybe I will try again.
Thank you very much for taking the trouble to comment. We try hard and it helps us to know what you think. Any suggestions for future videos are welcome.
Skill Builder You are most welcome.
In that case, can you please do a video on the subject of identifying whether a thermostatic valve needs replacing or the radiator itself and how to work out which one is causing a problem with the radiator not getting hot when the rest in the house are?
It would be useful if the video also covered the subject of removing and replacing a radiator from start to finish (not just removing the actual radiator but the other steps you must take first before you can remove it from the plumbing).
Shaun Hill
OK Shaun. That is on the list. Sometimes we overlook the basic stuff that everyone wants.
Gordon Ramsey the ultimate builder version...unique Roger absolutely PERFECT tech and human !
Best video I've seen so far, especially the vertical capillary action.
Have been told "plenty of flux" along with "use a damp rag and spray bottle of water"... both go against what's said here. Will try the dry way this weekend after doing the wet method last weekend and see which fittings leak first :)
Thanks for the video, nice and clear and helpful.
+Rich Pyke
Too much flux often leads to corrosion problems and encourages the solder to run down the pipe. Most flux manufacturers say to use it sparingly even though they would sell more if you slapped it on.
You can see if the solder has sucked up into the joint just by looking. Check it has run all the way round.
The point about the wet cloth is not proven because nobody has ever confirmed it officially. The dry rag cleans any solder runs up and helps wipe it back to the mouth of the fitting. You do need a wet rag at some point to clean any residual flux off the joint.
This is not gospel it is just my way of doing things and all plumbers find their own techniques.
Bought that mat very recently. Glad that product is doing well for your mate given that he's selling it over 5 years. Nice one Roger!
He is a good lad and deserves the success.
@@SkillBuilder You're a good lad too Roger. BTW, had my first delve into soldering today. I'm trying to solder microbore with a coupler. I applied flux to the two pipes and stuck on and heated the coupler up. But when I went to solder, the solder wouldn't wick into the joint. I cleaned the fittings as best I could with 120g sandpaper and then wire wool. What could be the cause of this? The pipes are laid horizontal in-situ.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk
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We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
By all means start cleaning with emery cloth - but ALWAYS finish with scotchbrite nylon pad. Reason? Emery can leave tiny carborundum particles on the surface of the copper which 9a) Reduce the manipulation of the joint due to friction 9even with flux applied) and (b) can prevent 100% "wetting" of the copper surfaces with solder.
I like to take the flux brush and wipe the joint while its still hot to pull the solder to the edge, ensuring a clean solid seal as well as a uniform look. Just helps with presentation. Good video though
Hi Roger. The WRAS Regulations say you are not permitted to put any flux in the fittings. I am sure this is from 2011. Love your videos as you know and I am oldschool like yourself. I just wanted to say because this is an instructional video. Keep up the good work my friend!
Great video education. Thanks. I watch a lot of do-it-yourself videos, and yours is one of the best. Now, let me grab my torch...and if I do much more of this, then I might have get an Omat.
nice solid no nonsense step by step and lots of tips for a novice like me!..thanks
Great video! Just got serious about learning to sweat pipes and this helps a lot! I feel like I can now fix ANY plumbing issues I have at my house now. Thanks!
Good to know Austin. Important to drain all the water out of the pipe because solder doesn't like water or steam.
Thanks. I have been searching for a while and your is the first that explained how much solder is required and how to gauge it. Cheers.
Thanks for the video -- presentation is clear and concise.
Thanks Val, Nice to hear
By far, the best soldering tutorial out there. Thanks!
Great, thanks Dave Berry . "Little things that you do". Whatever happened to Dave Berry?
fantastic. thanks for this. i need to teach it to some students next week. like driving i had picked up some bad points. Great tips here to such as bending the solder to the diameter of the pipe.
Major leaks on copper pipes down all the way down here in Texas , thank ya so much sir
Glad to help
Great channel, have been following it for some time now. Keep on uploading these excellent videos, you're helping me renovate my house!
I always remove the burr as I reckon its a possible cause for noise. I like your blowlamp! Water in pipes - big problem, sometimes hard or impossible to get rid in existing systems, in which case if theres room I prefer compression fittings. What do you think of solder ring fittings? I always use these for soldered joints. You could mention chrome plated pipes too. Simply the necessity of sanding down to the copper to solder.
But only use compression fittings where you can get to them, as the nuts can back--off and then the joint will leak!
Damp rag!
I was watching one lad running copper from new meter installations after they had renewed the gas main in the street. After soldering, he almost immediately poured water over the joint. I really thought the thermal shock and rapid contraction of the copper would crack the joint, especially with lead free solder. How it held the drop test is beyond me. So much for Gas Safe improving standards.
I have seen a copper gas line hold up with no solder in the joint. If it is fluxed and the copper is pushed hard into the fitting it can hold for a while. I have always maintained that the drop test is inadequate. It is only because gas is low pressure that it holds.
Best video yet Roger, I thought it might be though 👍
0:19 That plumber should put a tender in, for Hinkley C. This video helped me a lot. Thanks.
Yes he is a good guy, steady Eddy. They work on massive houses with six bathrooms, underfloor heating, heat pumps, solar thermal. The trick is to have a good drawing so you don't end up crossing pipes over then label everything.
That way you don't get gas coming out when you flush the w.c.
Thanks, I used your tips and no leaks. My solder didnt spread that nice tho, but it holds on!
Great instructional video 👍🏻
I wipe my fittings when they are hot. It spreads so there are no globs and gives my work a nice neat look.
Its good Roger, but if you guys are soldering I would advise not to flux the inside of the pipe, as this will push to the inside and we don’t want flux in our heating system or blocking our shower filters..etc.
Also I’d advise not wiping the joint straight away as this can knock the pipe,as there is a point as the solder starts forming back to a solid, at this point any movement can cause leaks.
let it cool down for a bit, then wipe down with a damp rag and shine your joint with wire wool…perfect.
just trying too help…we are plumbers…keep up the good work Roger
+Hancock and Brown
Thanks, it is always good to get comments and we can all learn from eachother. Are you saying don't put flux on the inside of the fitting? I wasn't aware that it was inside the pipe but a bit will be pushed in around the end and that could cause a solder run on the inside. The flux most plumbers use is water soluble and I flush the pipes out before connecting up showers etc. The heating system is always flushed out, that is good practice, we then run it hot and get rid of that before sticking the inhibitor in. That said a lot of plumbers use way too much flux and I might be one of them at times.
+Skill Builder yep inside the fitting, you can skip..it will solder fine I promise..even with flushing best not to get to in there..its a bigger issue when people solder gas pipes as it just sits there eating through the pipe…it was always the done thing fluxing inside and out.years ago but as boiler get less robust, less flux is one of the many steps to protecting pipe work.(mind you even a over flux copper pipework system will out last plastic pipes).
we have a couple of videos You and your follows might find interesting.
Cheers George
+Hancock and Brown
I have been trying the minimal flux method. It seems to work well. What flux do you use?
+Skill Builder we always use la-co flux, but don't rely on its self cleaning, we still clean every joint. But it is nice to have a self cleaning flux just incase somewhere's missed.
I have been trying out powerflow flux. seems ok maybe a little to strong on self cleaning, but its great for getting metal marks off ceramic
I learned this the hard way when I was new. I ran a bunch of copper and fluxed it up planning to solder it all up at once. This was a bad idea since I got pulled off to do another job and had to come back the next day. When I showed up in the morning all of my unsoldered but fluxed joints had green crust all over them. Was not a good day to say the least.
Thankyou. Excellent tutorial.
FANTASTIC video. Thanks very much!
Great Video - can you put a link to the blow torch please - As i cannot find that.
Solid video my friend. Cheers from Canada!
Sir thanks. What is the principle of water flow?
Is it just gravity, which makes all the pressure? Is that why water tanks are made at the top of the houses? What if water tank is not at the top of the house? would that be possible?
I always like to direct my flame up ward, it's good practice because heat has tendency to rise, copper is a good conductor tho so it isn't critical unless you are working on larger pipe like 3 inch. For a rookie wondering how long to heat the pipe if you see your flame turning green your definitely hot enough.
Good advice Rick
Couple questions.
1.Say you got a pipe.Some couplers in there, a union etc.Time to solder all that.What is rule of thumb in where to start soldering.Top down or bottom and work up each fitting soldering?
2.When heating say a coupling, where exactly does tip of heat go.Middle of coupler or right at joint some on coupler some on pipe?
3.So, heat one side and on other apply solder and go up down a tad and this will follow the heat in a complete circle of solder?
4.A 1/2 inch to 1/2 ball valve.Right where pipe goes in heat that end of ball valve on ball valve. Apply solder to other side or on a ball valve you have to follow the whole circle while soldering?
5.Input on putting unions on hot cold lines in house to water tank... Once I cut them lines (hot cold from house), I'm sure they will be damp inside before I put unions on for new tank.What do I do, just let the pipes air out few hr's before solder?
I always work from the top down. The flux and solder tends to run downwards and by the time you do the bottom it is usually heated almost to the point where it is ready to solder. The trick is not to have too much flux otherwise the solder runs down the pipe below the fitting.
You have to be careful with ball valves, they are now lead free and more fragile. . I put most of the heat on the copper pipe and then onto the ball valve joint a short time and get it just hot enough. As soon as the solder melts, take the heat away. I am not a plumber, so I also wrap a wet rag around the body of the ball valve to protect it from getting too hot. A plumber by trade has the experience to know how to solder in the valve without damaging it and without a wet rag wrap. It is safest to have the valve in the open position when soldering it.
@@DAS-Videos , thanks for reply.No plumber here as well.Just a 42 year old guy each day to make ends meet.Lucky I have worked on electronics for decade's.So, soldering there and some skill.Course I knew copper and solder plumbing etc differs.Little short story with a good ending I least am proud of.Four, five months ago 40 gal hot water tank leaked bad.It was toast no doubt from inside out.Sat for weeks with no hot water.Got a 40 gal and of course much taller.Along side with differed from the 80s tank.Yes, 80s tank.Another words, the hot and cold from house has to be cut good ways up.No way around out.Had to add elbows, unions and changed the crappie turn valve for a good ball.Let me put it this way, there was alot to solder.I could of went easy on a good amount with flex line screw and go and shark bites.I felt to do it old fashion and secure in knowing thus, solder.Never been down the road.Spent about a month in study reading and all else on my issues to learn.Worried about the solder subject and heat etc.Cold solder joints ( which I know of in electronic world ), the like.One stop was here when I was looking along with books so on.I used sense as some vids was sorta meh, I don't know clown vids.
Brought all the proper tools and thick wall copper and valve.Tested on a section in barn first.Course my issue was touch the solder to pipe and would not melt just crumble up eat away $ and that was sucking.Found that problem and away we go.Now my math sucks which was interesting in getting all just right to fit.Copper is not cheap in wasteful cut lol.Mind you I did this all on my own.Every cut first try fit snug.Did not toast the valve.Did not black or toast the pipe.Each solder joint went all the way around with no drips on pipe.No mounds of solder on the joints.The trick to learn was how to make the solder go around.Heat sucking or attracting it so to say.Touch here, go there and rest follows thing.All my joints did that first try.After a beer is the test of flip the switch.Tell the old lady I have 20 leaks lol.Flipped valve and worried like hell.Not one leak.I check it few times a day and as of today months later, warm showers and no leaks.Old lady says for years I break stuff in the fix of stuff.I mentioned that today and she said yeah.I said well, you are taking a hot shower are you not...........
Clear, straight forward. thanks for the tips
Ok having the pipes out on the bench for the demo - but real life is in corners, at arms length, under cabinets and the blowlamp needs to be upside down. Its invariably necessary to prevent fire damage to nearby flammable items - requiring a heatproof mat which should be taped temporarliy (aluminum foil tape) to the surrounding areas. I like the mat with the hole though - but i think this would only have limited application.
Really easy to follow video.
Plumbing code, at least in Canada, requires you to deburr the pipe. I would recommend you do it for any pipe install
The same applies in the U.K but in 40 odd years on site I have never seen a single case of anyone doing it and, for the most part, there aren't leaks. That little rounded end is such a snug fit in the fitting that iI have known it hold up even without solder. I am not sure the codes of practice keep up with technology.
I even "deburr" freshly cut ABS and chamfer too. Prep is key !
Fantastic concise video - thanks.
Thankyou well done very concise precise to understand thanks again
The only thing l do in addition to sanding the parts is to thenclean them up methylated spirits before applying the fluc to ensure there is no oil or grease.
Ty you! I saved $300 ! i don't need an overpaid plumber anymore. :D
+Simple Life
I am a plumber
+Simple Life overpaid??? yummy friend don't know what your talking about and when if you watched this video and think your a plumber now then wait until you flood your house condo apartment / dwelling you live in then you will be able tp really spend some coin
+100% percent i'd guess your the over paid plumber.. but to be honest, yes anyone can learn and do this their self.. i'm a mechanic and the same apply to my field. however, this is basic stuff and when the jobs get more complex the over paid plumber/mechanic/etc. will always be in demand.
+mattp1482
I don't see why people are so keen to call a plumber 'over-paid'. You learn a trade and go out for what you can get in a free market place and if someone thinks they can do it cheaper and better you have to compete against them. It is the same the world over.
In my time I have priced many jobs and come unstuck because of complications. Trying to remove air and sludge in systems can often turn a quick job into a long one and the customer never wants to pay the extra. There are some days when I have earned less than the minimum wage.
well i'll agree with both, but being a plumber and seeing some of the shit people do is absolutely ridiculous. i mean this is simplest of the basic its a dam solder joint , goto school for 5 years bust your balls and we earn our money the more people do and fuckup themselves the more we have to charge . theres a lot to it but don't be a blind fuck wit and just call me overpaid you have no idea what i make if I'm licensed an apprentice or what just another internet moron that i have now gave in and le waste my time
Since your still applying flame and working down, wouldn't the extra flame desolder the others? Why don't the others desolder when your still applying heat?
Cooldude
That is a very good question and it worried me when I started. Cappilary action sucks the solder into the void and even when it is molten it stays there. It is all to do with close fit between the fitting and the copper. Also the fact that the pipe below is unfluxed means the solder doesn't want to run on the dry pipe. This is why the amount of flux is important. If you put too much flux on the fittiing and it runs down you will have a Christmas tree of solder balls down the pipe and also balls of solder in the pipe. You see and hear it a lot.
Great instruction video, good presentation! Thanks!
Why map gas (yellow) instead of regular (blue)? Nice video.
Is it not a good idea to have an aerosol fire extinguisher to hand as well, incase you end up setting alight something? If so what would you recommend?
Good clear information
Great video
Great job keeping it simple !
But since heat rises, shouldn't the bottom joint be soldered first ?
Heat rising is not really and issue with copper because it conducts, If you do the bottom joint first and then the top the bottom will continue to be heated and can run down the tube. I run the top and, very often the solder runs to the bottom through the inside and the bottom is almost done when you get to it.
In Australia we don't use that old technique we use silver solder for copper to copper no flux required
Good video !!
That was a good video and clear advice. Thanks.
+pdn11141
THANK YOU.
was there any reason for soldering the top joint first rather than the bottom or side joint ?
Removing the burr makes sense.
Thank you for your territorial it was very helpful
Great video. I need to adjust some old pipework by un-soldering, cutting and then re-soldering. Will the capillary action work OK on a fitting that has been un-soldered or should I replace the fitting(elbow) at the same time?
+Gavin Andrews HI Gavin. The answer to that is probably. Sometimes it works treat but other times I find that it doesn't quite seal. The pipe will be fine but you will have to make sure there are no bumps and lumps of solder that might stop the fitting going on. If is is all clean and you use self cleaning flux and feed in new solder then it should go well but there is nothing to beat new fittings on clean pipe.
This may be a bit late but always replace the fittings, start by adding flux before you hea the fitting up and you may have to add more flux as you go. As for the pipe, once you've removed the fitting heat it back up and wipe all the solder off with a dry rag the your left with a smooth tinned piece of copper just makes sure it's clean and your ready to go.
I owe you a beer for the great tips!, awesome video, thank you :)
+Dee Cee
Thank you for the beer, it was lovely.
+Skill Builder Cheers mate!
I use a oscillating tool with a sanding bit 180 grit , it cleans pipes quickly and easily
As I haven't had to dabble with copper for a few years and may have to solder some soon, I watched this to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything and would like to say it was well formatted, you come across as a bloke who really knows his stuff. Out of curiosity, do you have any thoughts on the idea of using bread in wet pipes to prevent water getting into the fitting? I've seen a few people do this and even used it myself some years ago, but have heard differing thoughts as to its effectiveness and the potential consequences. If you're unfamiliar with it, the idea goes that pushing bread a little way into a damp pipe will prevent any more water making its way towards the fitting when soldering, but it should be obliterated by the water pressure when it is turned back on.
Sorry for the late reply I have only just picked this up. I have used the bread trick many times. Now we have push fits there is not so much call for it but I always used to be ramming bread down the pipe to stop a let by. If it suddenly lets go you can end up with a flash of steam so you need to make sure you are not on the end of the pipe. All good fun
What is flux and what is it for? Is it cooking oil? Wax? Does it help suck in the solder? Is it a slick area for the solder to get in there? Never had anyone explain it. "FLUX, USE IT. YAAAAA... "
It prevents oxidisation and, as you say, helps draw the solder into the joint.
How important is it to feed soldering wire all the way around the pipe?
Very helpful 😎
Really Nice Stuff Here. Thanks
Good video - thanks for sharing 👍
Dear Mr. Roger Bisby, I saw your video and it helped me. Thank you for posting it.
I have a couple of questions, however. Within the last week, I replaced a frost free hose bib with shut off in the line before it (basement). I used propane, with a Bernzomatic basic use brass propane, pencil torch. One of the 45º fittings is weeping on only one side. (Sigh). ¿Is it possible to re-heat the one side (only) and apply more silver solder to seal that connection? (The leak is only on one side of one fittings, and I would keep the other side covered/protected with a wet rag). ¿Or, is it necessary to remove the whole fitting, clean the pipe ends, are-sand, clean, flux, and solder a new fitting? The leak is a very small, only one fitting's affected, and it's located on the back side of where I applied heat with the torch. (I think I did not have enough heat). ¿What do you think, please? Any and all comments welcomed. God Bless. tonyd\.
You can never tell if it is something like a hair from a flux brush or a bit of dirt but plumbers often have to re-heat a joint. Make sure there is no water in the pipe on either side of the joint. Don't bother with the wet rag just heat the whole joint and touch some solder onto the hot fitting with a good dollop on self cleaning flux on the end of the solder. Do that on both ends of the fitting and then just let it cool. You should be good after that. If it is still leaking heat it up, knock it off and clean the pipe and use a new fitting but I don;t think you will have to. Let me know how it goes. Others can learn from it
Dear Mr. Bisby, thank you so much for the counsel and directions. I think all the water's out, but I'm not completely sure. I have the waste open at the shut off near by (~4 inches away). However, I only got a little water out, seemingly, not that much, and expected more. It's not draining anymore. I'll assume it's dry in there and try want you said. By self cleaning flux, I assume you mean water soluble flux. I don't have any of that, but the regular type, purchased ~8-10 years ago, (and still relatively unused). Please let me know of any additional suggestions, kindly, if you are amenable. Thank you very much. (I am delighted that you responded). Thank you so much. God Bless your home. tonyd\.
Skill Builder
Great tip. Thanks for all you do!
Great video!
Thanks. I hope you get some sleep
Skill Builder oops haha sorry about that I get so busy I lose track of time. Yes, I did thank you :)
Is there an order to which joint you do first? You did the top, side and the bottom.
All plumbers have their preference. If you do the top it often runs to the bottom. If you do the bottom first it can run while you are doing the top.
Really good video!
Thanks!!!
+leokoley Thanks for the feedback. We like to know what you think. We really need to get some more plumbing videos up next year.
Top video thanks
I love your videos.
thats a perfect solder
I enjoyed your video.
Thanks Jacob. We are currently putting together a whole series of plumbing videos giving some in depth information on fitting bathrooms and showers. They should be out very soon.
What if the pipe has a slight sweating to it after attaching the new piping to fix a leak? Would I remove the piece and redo the fitting again? How do I know it’s sealed? It’s a hot water pipe that is vertical located closer to the top of my ceiling in my garage.
Misty Ubina sweating could be condensation due to temperature difference of the water in the pipe to the temperature outside of the pipe in the garage. This temperature difference causes the moisture in the air in the garage to condense forming water on the pipe. Hope this helps you. :)
Thanks for some good advice.
Just seen a video for a product (with WRAS approval marked on the pack) which connects end feed copper without heat.... not sure if I'd trust it, but then I didn't trust plastic fittings when they first appeared and now use them quite a lot. Any experience of this stuff? I think it's called "just for copper" or something. It seems an easier method... if it works as well or lasts as long as good old solder.
+Choppington Otter
I was asked to review that product if it is the same one and I asked them what kind of public liability insurance they had to cover failures. It turned out they didn't have any which means the product warranty covered the product and not consequential loss. If you check out the insurance cover on JG Speedfit for example it is for millions of pounds so you will never be in a position where you flood a block of flats and nobody pays up. That is assuming you use the liners and don't leave them out like some plumbers seem to. Oh yeah the WRAS approval covers non-contamination of drinking water.
+Skill Builder Thanks. I think that says it all! :-)
If what you are referring to is what we have here called Sharkbite fittings, then the plastic insert is only meant to stay in the fitting if you are using it with PEX (polyethylene).
This is something different. I believe Choppington is talking about a type of glue that you put in a copper to copper connector. The WRAS approval says it won't contaminate but there is no meaningful guarantee on the holding power.
Oh. I have never seen or heard of such a thing. I'm going to guess using that is a no no with my local building codes. And if it's not it surely wouldn't fly with my boss.
i like to add some flux on to the joint after i have soldered it to make the joint cool down and make the copper cleaner and more presentable and using a dry cloth to clean it off is this a bad practice?
+tank Thinker
I know a lot of plumbers who do that to make sure they get a clean bead of solder around the mouth of the fitting.
If it works for you then it is fine. It is all about a leak-free joint.
Mapp or propane ?
THANKS KATE! CHEERS:)
Roger can I use wire wool to clean the pipes? Thx
yes it is a good idea.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks. Are end feed fittings less likely to leak than Yorkshire fittings?
thanks mate!
Perfect!!!!!
How do you repair a copper pipe that has been already solder and is leaking water
You have to get all the water out of it. Then clean it as best you can and when you get it hot drop a nice dollop of self cleaning flux on the joint. It should run into the fitting. You can often pull it apart and clean it, then solder on a new fitting but sometimes just heating it and dropping self cleaning flux on and a dab of solder will seal it.
Thank you good sir...
Billiant! Thank you
Another good, instructional, video 👍
I cant find a single video showing how to fix the soldering when it doesn't work. I've soldered one vertical washing machine line about five times. I keep getting pinhole size leaks. Do i just melt the union and pull it apart and re-sand it or do i have to cut the joint out and keep replacing it. So damn frustrated. I brazed pipes every day in HVAC class for a year but soldering just keeps failing. Help!
*****
Hi If it has failed that many times best to cut the joint out and fit a new one. I don't suppose there is water in the pipe so it is likely that you just don't hit the hot pipe with the solder at the point when it wants to suck it up.
Keep trying and you will feel very happy when you get it done.
Skill Builder got it done. Replaced the water shutoffs for the washer, the main house shut off, the PRV and two outside. The map torch flame wasn't tight enough. Bought the smaller propane? It had a tighter cone. Takes longer to heat it up but its harder to overheat it. Can't afford the Oxy Acetaline. Just took some patience. Thanks for replying back.
Great thanks
top man! thank u! One love!
Gordon Ramseys brother?
LOL.
Only think I could think of lmao
If so, he needs to curse a lot more haha
Just a little bit more user friendly than Ramsay
Sjee,your still soldering pipes?Thats old fashion man!They dont do that anymore over here in Europe!We use fitting knies nowadays!(dont know if its the right translation>)Just a kind of rubber ring that is pressed on and it dont leak if done right.
Yeah we have all those fittings too but solder and copper are still very popular and neat.
Not over here!You cant buy the stuff anymore,needed to solder pipes..
ha ha . You can buy marijuana, but you can't buy solder. I love your country
We go with the time!Or do you still install wires with cotton isolation?
Yeah,really!I know!Its astonishing isnt it?
nice work!!!!