Absolutely fantastic. Your delivery of information is clear, concise, and you can tell it comes from experience. I'm currently repairing some piping in my home, and this video gives me the confidence that I am doing the job right. Thanks for your effort and time!
Dear Sir: Thank you for the lesson on how to join pipes together. Although I may never do plumbing. You taught me an emergency life skill, in the event a plumber was not available. Also, I like the way you were patient presenting the material. Thanks again. Katie
One thing to note from experience, is that whilst plastic pipe and fittings can be a good solution when hidden away (Like you, I prefer copper if on display), if there is a chance of rats or mice, keep to copper and brass. I have retrieved Speedfit fittings in lofts chewed almost all the way through by vermin. I keep one chewed up fitting as an example to show customers. Good, concise video. I have used compressions on plastic for years. Easier to take apart and reseat if modifying pipe work, and always reseat with a fresh wind of PTFE.
We had a hidden leak behind the tiles of our electric shower - caused a hell of a lot of damage to plaster and the entire cubicle and tiling had to be ripped out to get at the leak and dry out the walls. We couldn't get a plumber interested in our comparatively small job. In the end I had to tackle everything myself - a significant amount of between floorboards re-routing of copper pipework to accommodate a standalone fully enclosed shower cubicle. Your plumbing videos gave the the knowledge and self-confidence to do a very professional looking job (certainly better than much of the original plumbing). Now I've successfully cut and rerouted mains pressure water pipes under floors with no leaks at all I'll probably never feel the need to call out a plumber again! Many thanks.
i'm not a plumber and I probably watched this video half a dozen times over the years. I still get skill-fully reminded on the techniques... brilliant Video
Thank you so much. I am seventy this is my first attempt of simply putting an additional outside tap using a T piece. I know plastic is simper but compression looks sturdier. Wife not impressed with water spraying everywhere after it had been installed 5 days without a leak! . I had used brass olive instead of copper. No amount of white tape would stop the leak! Thanks to your video olive now secure on the pipe.
Excellent. Great bits of detail right there, I just love watching folks who know there trade, talk about all the do's and won't work well tricks. Rodger is a true professional at this. Thank you again. Jim
Re the liners/inserts for plastic pipe, I find it helpful to make a permanent marker mark on the pipe, near the joint, to record the fact that I've used an insert.
Superb video, thanks Roger. I'm on here because my loft flooded at midnight last night after one of those puch fit plastic fittings came off. Things always seem to go wrong at the most inconvenient time! It was joining plastic pipe from the boiler to the copper pipework in the loft. I am now going to replace them all with compression fittings and thanks to you, I now know to get some liners for the plastic pipes and will use the PTFE around the olives. Thanks again for helping me out.
I am sorry to hear about your flood. The pipe from the boiler should be copper and should not change to plastic for at least 2 metres. It sounds like yours is the other way around.
Hi Roger, first class info & 100% well deliverd thank you. I have not plumbed for a long time & since time, last plastic has come into its own so needed all the detail explained to undertake amn installation job at home. I now have the correct info & confidence to deal with the joints required. Thank You... I have watched a number of your videos & they are so valuable, good work.
Thank you so much for this video. Zero knowledge on plumbing and was able to remove an old push fit t joint and attach a new brass one. AGAIN, thank you!
Some great advice here. One of the best videos out there for basic plumbing. I was about to go buy new compression fitting as there was a very slow leak. This video popped up and saved myself a few quid and a long drive by taping around the Olive. Thanks for sharing.
For me, a licenced plumber for over 40 years, the best system in Hep20 from Hepworth Industries. A polybutyl system using 18mm and 22mm pipe and compression fittings. The fittings have a SS grab ring and 'o' ring which only needs hand pressure to tighten, no tools. the only tool you need is a lever action pipe cutter. It is the simplest system available but you MUST always use a SS support sleeve inside the pipe. It is suitable for both hot and cold water but like most plastics cannot be used in sunlight. I found it comes into it's own on high water pressure jobs as it stops water hammer. So if you have a copper system with water hammer, install a coil on the hot and cold connections at a tank hot water heater. It is usually the non-return valve at water heaters that cause water hammer and the plastic pipe expands enough to stop it.
Hi Roger , Being an Ex English Apprentice served Plumber pipefitter , Now in the USA I do like the subtle differences Over here now its nearly all Pex , but its joined with internal ribbed fitting and a compression copper ring holding it on the outside , Its easy to use and 2 guys can plumb a 3 bath Kitchen wash room house in under a day , They don't even teach Copper and black iron pipe much anymore , ( possibly like being in collage in the early 80's they taught us lead burning flashing making) . Being bought up on copper pipe and iron pipe I find that when ever a job requires these I come into My element and can smoke the young guns lol . Great Channel great information True craftsman ( I was a Railway Apprentice Plumber pipefitter so leaned a bit of everything )
Fantastic many thanks, all of the videos are really clear and understandable. I’ve learned more about pipe fittings in 10 mins than I have in my whole life
Thankyou Roger. I've been watching and saving your videos as tutorials as I'm about to renovate and refit my bathroom. This will be the first time I've attempted a bathroom and I'm looking forward to the challenge. I gutted and refitted/plumbed a kitchen at my last property and it was very satisfying success. Now, armed with many hours of book research and top tips from the informative user friendly videos you offer, I'm geared up to go.
I used plastic for the entirety of my 'summerhouse' in Sweden - with temperatures down to minus 35 Celsius in winter (system drained of course) and plus 30 in summer and I have never ever had a problem in 26 years. The system I used was Hep2o. 6 years ago I installed JJSpeedfit (from Screwfix IIRC) in a smaller guesthouse - again never a problem. I do prefer the Speedfit system for the reasons you gave - easy to detach and re-attach connections. And yes, the Redhill plumbing lads are very helpful.
I’m not a plumber. But due to learning kitchen fitting at college the plumbing tutor always said the threads should never see water hence don’t need ptfe tape.Only tape the olive. Fast forward a 17 years and I’ve seen ptfe tape wrapped around everything.You see it hanging out of radiator fittings in homes.Ive mentioned it to plumbers over the years but they are hell bent wrapping it like Xmas present.
because teflon/PTFE tape is not sealant, its not for sealing anything, its for helping you tighten the fitting. NPT is a tapered thread, so as you tighten it, it seals through the tapering of the pipe.
My plumber/builder short cut job by fitting Flexi pipe instead of copper pipes in the bathroom. He also used a dead end cup under the wash basin instead of elbow pvc pipe which caused flooding few months after his job!
Thanks - another great video. I need to remove a leaking isolator on a PB plastic pipe and I've only ever worked with copper before. I googled for a couple of hours before going to RUclips and finding your video. I now know exactly what to do and what parts to buy for the job. One thing worth mentioning is the use of the copper push-fit fittings. I've not used them myself but I 've always imagined they'd be useful when working on existing pipework that's on display and can't be effectively dried out enough for relaible soldering.
I have had a lot of bad luck with those copper push fits. The demountable ones are ok but the others are a one shot deal and you have to cut the fitting out if they don't go right.
Thanks for the help man. I didn’t realize sharkbite fittings were good for pvc or pex as well. I’m not a plumber by any means, so this helped me fix my waste pipe from the sink
I have had some problems with PE-X-AL plastic piped with swelling at the joint ends, not all joints only some, and the installation was professional done. Compression joints, I'm going to try applying the tape at the ferrule, and square end on pipe
Thanks Stuart It is a job I have never fancied and I think wanting to do it should disqualify you. I look at Bernie Sanders running for the American Democratic nomination, he is 78 years old, and I just think why would anyone want to put themselves through that?
I used Acorn pipes and fittings in the 1980s. Nearly 40 years later, they are still working just fine. Olives are good, pipes have not gone stiff and not one has leaked. Acorn became Hep2o, but it is basically the same same stuff. Polypipe is pretty much the same as the older style Hep2o. Personally I prefer it.
You are not the only one. I know lots of plumbers who think only push-fit works on plastic. In many ways compression joints are better. I can't see any reason they would fail even after 50 years which is the guarantee period on the pipe. Watch out for future videos where we go to the factory and see the pipe being made and tested with a variety of fittings. Which will fail first?
So glad I found your channel Roger. I have learnt such a lot. I'm time rich and money poor, and decent tradespeople are very hard to find where I live (in the foreign!) so it's (hopefully) learn first, do next, and in my case measure 6 times and cut once!
We are glad to help. Take your time with everything and you will do a better job. There are no prizes for being first and people who rush end up doing it all again.
1:56 the liner (insert) is used to strengthen the plastic pipe and stop it from deforming under compression, not so much for push fit. The o-ring will still "roll" over the sharp, freshly cut edge of the pipe and can get injured, especially if you do not use a lubricant and when you are working on site and there is grit, dust and contamination everywhere. Imagine pipes and fittings on the floor, plaster, brick, block and mortar particles everywhere, acting as sandpaper and cutting through the o-ring.
That leading edge on the liner is essential. If you don't use it the square end can damage the 'o' ring. I was on the JG Speedfit plumber's panel and this was a point they made.
I have a plastic speedfit on a copper pipe that a plumber quickly installed last year for an outdoor tap, unfortunately it leaks when under pressure so I haven't been able to use the tap yet. I'm thinking of swapping over to brass compression fittings, but those speedfits are tricky to take off especially in cramped locations, I think I will try the method you showed on here. Cheers! =)
Very informative and I learnt a few things. Especially at the end with the push fittings on the chrome pipe. One thing I'd like to point out though is locking the JG Speedfit pipes actually compresses the rubber o-ring to create a better seal.
I like the ptfe tip not only is it useful belt and braces engineering but you actually get to see if the olive is correctly set in situ which for amateurs like me is always a concern. Well in Roger
This is really helpful. I have seen people doing repairs on leaking underground pipes with joints which they would cover in the end. What are the joints/fittings that are OK to be buried underground? If it is a copper pipe, is it OK to have a soldered joint underground?
Great video explains everything you need to know and from my pluming shop just down the road, I think we all just have to have more confidence in these push fittings I must admit it took me awhile but never had a problem with one yet, I have watched many of you videos and you explain this very clearly keep them coming
One of the best instructional videos I have seen. I have done lots of copper, but your little tid bits of info are extremely informative. I need to know WHY I need to do things not just HOW to do things. Thank you from Canada!
Thanks a lot Roger learned new things especially taping ferrule, pipe inserts etc. Do you think you could post link to where one could buy the copper pipe cutter and the adjustable wrench.?
That is a real shame, so many people are let down by lazy teachers. I wish you the best of luck, there is a good living to be had. I have never been out of work and the freedom is great.
Excellent video, just wish I had seen it last week lol...redid the downstairs shower room In JG Speedfit (I'd also counted the pipe inserts so as not to miss any!), my biggest issue was getting the CW and HW connection to the brass compression fittings not to weep...Ended up putting 4 wraps of ptfe on just as he did and they've been perfect- I'll bear that in mind in the future about using it on copper pipe also...I bought a new pipe slice which I used to cut the PE-X pipe, took a lot of turns and just a final easy cut through the pipe with a sharp Stanley knife but left an excellent square end with no sharp edges. Once it's been used on copper the edge might not be as good but cheaper than plastic pipe cutting snip things.
Thanks for that another great video and reassuring to see that I've been doing it correctly, especially useful as I'm rebuilding the bathroom at the moment.
It says at the end of the video that you can't use stainless steel with push fit systems. With that in mind, will a stainless steel compression fitting accept a plastic pipe (like you showed at 03:20 with the copper fitting), and does it need the same inserts? Also, is there a way to transition from copper tube to stainless steel without using a small length of plastic tube in between the two? You can't put the two metals directly together due to corrosion, so plastic seems like a good transition material, but is there a better option?
Thanks Roger ,had a flood last night 5am! on main cold water ,no copper ring over pipe so it pulled apart , just put it back together using one , wasn't sure if I should but now I know I was right 👍👍👍
Great Video with concise instructions for an average DIY home owner. Thanks for your video contribution and I look forward to your next posting. Cheers from USA
planning on doing my flat soon. pex tubing with copper compression joints under mains pressure is good and doable for an amateur? great video, thanks very much.
Yes I think that is a good way to go. Just make sure you get the right liners and put one into every pipe end and you will be fine. The compression joint will not pull off.
You are an absolute legend mate really appreciate your time putting this video together. I've just discovered a leaking pipe at a radiator that has these plastic pipes running into a copper fitting and wasn't sure how they are assembled therefore this has helped me big time. You've got yourself another like and Subscriber!! Thank you so much for your time 😊🍻👍
Like the idea of compression fittings with plastic pipe , an olive seems a better option than any proprietary gripper ring even though they are reliable , good vid, :)
13:38 The problem, which not many are aware of, is that if you start by pushing the pipe all the way into the fitting, as you then start to tighten the nut, the olive bites on it and is PREVENTED from making a seal against the fitting, because it can move no further as the pipe has already hit the bottom. As you continue to tighten, the only way to make a seal is if the olive would slide on the pipe, but in most cases it will not. You will then continue to tighten to stop the leak thereby deforming the metals depending on your strength. If you remove the nut you will see the olive firmly stuck on the pipe and a large section of pipe past the olive and into the fitting. The proper way is to pull the pipe out a couple of mm before you start tightening, thus giving it room to move when the olive pushes it further into the fitting.
@@georgelonghurst2672 the nut bites on the olive, the olive bites into the copper tube and pushes the tube into the fitting by the same amount of travel as the nut. But if the copper tube is already fully inserted, it has nowhere to go. If you continue to tigthen one of the follwoing will happen: (a) you will not be strong enough (eg 28mm pipes), (b) the olive will slide forward (c) the olive and the tube will get deformed. Ideally you want (b), but why risk (a) and (c)? You must start by pushing the pipe all the way in, then retracting a few mm, hold steady, and then tighten. Those few mm will allow the tube to travel further into the fitting as it gets carried by the olive which has bitten into it.
Very informative, as ever. Maybe a future video could cover pressfit/crimping as an alternative to solder/compression/pushfit, both in copper and the dedicated plastic systems?
Hi,brilliant videos,learn a lot from you. Do you get metal pipe inserts for use with compression fittings on plastic pipe? Just that they look like they are black...Regards,Richi.
You can use metal or plastic. The plastic ones without the 'o' ring at the end are the right ones for compression fittings but stainless steel are also good.
Excellent video, very educational and informative. One question, some recommend using 'Fernox joining compound' , which is better and why? PTFE tape, joining compound. What is LS-X used for?
Never used the JG Speedfit fittings on copper pipe as I've always been "old school" copper, but looks good. One important question though, does the fitting work just as well on the hot water pipework??
thanks buddy! a cornucopia of knowledge for anyone meddling with pipes. :) however a few shortcomings that i noticed: apparently there are two different types of inserts to use with plastic pipes. the one with the o ring in the middle for plastic fittings and the one without for copper. i'm not entirely sure if one can be used for the other or vice versa but you had no mention of the two versions. also it would be nice to know if an insert could be reused once installed and taken out or not. you did mention about the fittings and that plumbers normally chuck used ones away but nothing is about the inserts or if they can be or should be reused after taken out. it kinda makes sense not to do but still it would be nice to have that clarified. thanks a bunch for the video anyways. saved me a hefty bill on fitting an under counter filtration system.
Brass compression fittings are made and designed not to have gunk or tape put on them. It defeats the object, and the brass compression ring is made to form a watertight seal against the pipe, either copper or plastic. 40 years plumbing never used tape or gunk on a compression fitting and not had a problem if you do the job correctly.
I often use copper pipe with plastic pushfit, gives a degree of flexibility (easy rotation of the pipe) and great for tight spaces where getting tools in for a compression fittings are a shitemare and if the pipes are too wet for solder fittings.
Excellent Video, A Question - Obvioulsy there's quite a Lot of Restriction on plastic Pipe (With Inserts) and Copper Pipe, so Is it better to go Up a size with Plastic ie 15 up to 22mm to overcome this?
Generally it is not worth increasing the bore size on hot water supplies. With heating and cold water is is worthwhile but keep in mind that plastic pipe generally has fewer joints and nice easy bends.
Excellent tutorial as always. Comprehensive, highly skilled / experienced, intelligent step-by-step guides with clear explanations of the product / system / process. Highly recommended 👌
Great vids Roger I’m a paddy worked in London years ago went to NY then back to Ireland but now mostly NY I have an uncle in Maidstone so I find your videos and info really brilliant.l`m a mechanical engineer and you do a super job of showing the tools and such keep them going ,love watching
Hi Roger, good video as usual but reading the comments it looks like most viewers are from the diy side so you could have mentioned the pros and cons of different methods as most plumbing takes place not in the showroom or classroom where pipes are clean, dry and access is good. For the professional a mention of the crimp system might be useful. I know it’s costly to set up and a pain for following plumbers to make adjustments or even join on to but I’m seeing more of it out here on sites.
Absolutely fantastic. Your delivery of information is clear, concise, and you can tell it comes from experience. I'm currently repairing some piping in my home, and this video gives me the confidence that I am doing the job right. Thanks for your effort and time!
I read a book about PTF tape I found it hard to read as I could not find the beginning.
That is funny I read a book on Duck Tape and couldn't put it down.
Can't believe this is free... I've just had what should be a paid for lesson on plumbing! Thank you Roger.
Nothing is Free ... RUclips shows ads
@@sajidrafique375 ad block pro 👍🏼
Agreed!!!
I pay for RUclips premium
@@JP_Raptor So you paid for your lesson
Dear Sir: Thank you for the lesson on how to join pipes together. Although I may never do plumbing. You taught me an emergency life skill, in the event a plumber was not available. Also, I like the way you were patient presenting the material. Thanks again. Katie
Great information! I work maintenance and have my first plumbing job (minor repair) tomorrow. Got all the info I needed. Cheers!
Brilliant tip I put PTFE tape around the olives ..... no leaks thank you for great tip also excellent video
One thing to note from experience, is that whilst plastic pipe and fittings can be a good solution when hidden away (Like you, I prefer copper if on display), if there is a chance of rats or mice, keep to copper and brass.
I have retrieved Speedfit fittings in lofts chewed almost all the way through by vermin.
I keep one chewed up fitting as an example to show customers.
Good, concise video. I have used compressions on plastic for years. Easier to take apart and reseat if modifying pipe work, and always reseat with a fresh wind of PTFE.
We had a hidden leak behind the tiles of our electric shower - caused a hell of a lot of damage to plaster and the entire cubicle and tiling had to be ripped out to get at the leak and dry out the walls. We couldn't get a plumber interested in our comparatively small job. In the end I had to tackle everything myself - a significant amount of between floorboards re-routing of copper pipework to accommodate a standalone fully enclosed shower cubicle. Your plumbing videos gave the the knowledge and self-confidence to do a very professional looking job (certainly better than much of the original plumbing). Now I've successfully cut and rerouted mains pressure water pipes under floors with no leaks at all I'll probably never feel the need to call out a plumber again!
Many thanks.
It's nice to watch this sort of stuff with a proper old school plumber who knows what he's talking about...enjoyed the info 👍👍
Clear, succinct, comprehensive and interesting. Just when I need it. Roger, you're brilliant!
This is why this guy is great . He’s actually showing you how to do it and how sometimes it’s a nightmare but there’s always a way fair play mate
i'm not a plumber and I probably watched this video half a dozen times over the years. I still get skill-fully reminded on the techniques... brilliant Video
Thank you so much. I am seventy this is my first attempt of simply putting an additional outside tap using a T piece. I know plastic is simper but compression looks sturdier. Wife not impressed with water spraying everywhere after it had been installed 5 days without a leak! . I had used brass olive instead of copper. No amount of white tape would stop the leak! Thanks to your video olive now secure on the pipe.
I've done DIY for many decades and I knew most of this ....but I still watched the whole video. It never hurts to brush up on knowledge, does it ? :-)
Thank you so much for explaining in a way the average level diy man or woman can understand.
Great video, thanks again.
Best I have seen very good pat
Hi Roger.
I used to listen to you on LBC radio.
I'm glad you are still around.
Nice to hear your voice again.
Excellent. Great bits of detail right there, I just love watching folks who know there trade, talk about all the
do's and won't work well tricks. Rodger is a true professional at this. Thank you again. Jim
Nice to know that one can insert I compression fitting into a plastic 15mm pipe very good
The ptfe around the Olive makes total sense , 30 years in the building trade and never seen that , learning all the time. Cheers
Great job of explaining where to the pipe tape to prevent leaks. Great video for learning how to join pipes properly.
Re the liners/inserts for plastic pipe, I find it helpful to make a permanent marker mark on the pipe, near the joint, to record the fact that I've used an insert.
Superb video, thanks Roger. I'm on here because my loft flooded at midnight last night after one of those puch fit plastic fittings came off. Things always seem to go wrong at the most inconvenient time! It was joining plastic pipe from the boiler to the copper pipework in the loft. I am now going to replace them all with compression fittings and thanks to you, I now know to get some liners for the plastic pipes and will use the PTFE around the olives. Thanks again for helping me out.
I am sorry to hear about your flood. The pipe from the boiler should be copper and should not change to plastic for at least 2 metres. It sounds like yours is the other way around.
Hi Roger, first class info & 100% well deliverd thank you. I have not plumbed for a long time & since time, last plastic has come into its own so needed all the detail explained to undertake amn installation job at home. I now have the correct info & confidence to deal with the joints required. Thank You... I have watched a number of your videos & they are so valuable, good work.
Thank you so much for this video. Zero knowledge on plumbing and was able to remove an old push fit t joint and attach a new brass one. AGAIN, thank you!
Some great advice here. One of the best videos out there for basic plumbing. I was about to go buy new compression fitting as there was a very slow leak. This video popped up and saved myself a few quid and a long drive by taping around the Olive.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped
Very clear Roger and, as a novice, I would feel confident to make such connections. Great video
For me, a licenced plumber for over 40 years, the best system in Hep20 from Hepworth Industries.
A polybutyl system using 18mm and 22mm pipe and compression fittings. The fittings have a SS grab ring and 'o' ring which only needs hand pressure to tighten, no tools. the only tool you need is a lever action pipe cutter.
It is the simplest system available but you MUST always use a SS support sleeve inside the pipe. It is suitable for both hot and cold water but like most plastics cannot be used in sunlight.
I found it comes into it's own on high water pressure jobs as it stops water hammer. So if you have a copper system with water hammer, install a coil on the hot and cold connections at a tank hot water heater. It is usually the non-return valve at water heaters that cause water hammer and the plastic pipe expands enough to stop it.
Hi Roger , Being an Ex English Apprentice served Plumber pipefitter , Now in the USA I do like the subtle differences Over here now its nearly all Pex , but its joined with internal ribbed fitting and a compression copper ring holding it on the outside , Its easy to use and 2 guys can plumb a 3 bath Kitchen wash room house in under a day , They don't even teach Copper and black iron pipe much anymore , ( possibly like being in collage in the early 80's they taught us lead burning flashing making) . Being bought up on copper pipe and iron pipe I find that when ever a job requires these I come into My element and can smoke the young guns lol . Great Channel great information True craftsman ( I was a Railway Apprentice Plumber pipefitter so leaned a bit of everything )
Fantastic many thanks, all of the videos are really clear and understandable. I’ve learned more about pipe fittings in 10 mins than I have in my whole life
Pure gold this channel. Cheers from an ex-carpenter.
Thanks Dennis!
Thankyou Roger.
I've been watching and saving your videos as tutorials as I'm about to renovate and refit my bathroom.
This will be the first time I've attempted a bathroom and I'm looking forward to the challenge.
I gutted and refitted/plumbed a kitchen at my last property and it was very satisfying success.
Now, armed with many hours of book research and top tips from the informative user friendly videos you offer, I'm geared up to go.
How did it go? 😂
holy cow!!! this guy is amazing!! thanks for being there
V. Useful - answered my question about mixing plastic & copper.
Excellent video, the ptfe on the olive was worth the watch alone 👍
I used plastic for the entirety of my 'summerhouse' in Sweden - with temperatures down to minus 35 Celsius in winter (system drained of course) and plus 30 in summer and I have never ever had a problem in 26 years. The system I used was Hep2o. 6 years ago I installed JJSpeedfit (from Screwfix IIRC) in a smaller guesthouse - again never a problem. I do prefer the Speedfit system for the reasons you gave - easy to detach and re-attach connections. And yes, the Redhill plumbing lads are very helpful.
I’m not a plumber.
But due to learning kitchen fitting at college the plumbing tutor always said the threads should never see water hence don’t need ptfe tape.Only tape the olive.
Fast forward a 17 years and I’ve seen ptfe tape wrapped around everything.You see it hanging out of radiator fittings in homes.Ive mentioned it to plumbers over the years but they are hell bent wrapping it like Xmas present.
because teflon/PTFE tape is not sealant, its not for sealing anything, its for helping you tighten the fitting. NPT is a tapered thread, so as you tighten it, it seals through the tapering of the pipe.
My plumber/builder short cut job by fitting Flexi pipe instead of copper pipes in the bathroom. He also used a dead end cup under the wash basin instead of elbow pvc pipe which caused flooding few months after his job!
Thanks - another great video. I need to remove a leaking isolator on a PB plastic pipe and I've only ever worked with copper before. I googled for a couple of hours before going to RUclips and finding your video. I now know exactly what to do and what parts to buy for the job.
One thing worth mentioning is the use of the copper push-fit fittings. I've not used them myself but I 've always imagined they'd be useful when working on existing pipework that's on display and can't be effectively dried out enough for relaible soldering.
I have had a lot of bad luck with those copper push fits. The demountable ones are ok but the others are a one shot deal and you have to cut the fitting out if they don't go right.
Thanks for the help man. I didn’t realize sharkbite fittings were good for pvc or pex as well. I’m not a plumber by any means, so this helped me fix my waste pipe from the sink
I have had some problems with PE-X-AL plastic piped with swelling at the joint ends, not all joints only some, and the installation was professional done.
Compression joints, I'm going to try applying the tape at the ferrule, and square end on pipe
I wish Roger was running the country. He would do it right, with NO short cuts.
Thanks Stuart
It is a job I have never fancied and I think wanting to do it should disqualify you. I look at Bernie Sanders running for the American Democratic nomination, he is 78 years old, and I just think why would anyone want to put themselves through that?
I used Acorn pipes and fittings in the 1980s. Nearly 40 years later, they are still working just fine. Olives are good, pipes have not gone stiff and not one has leaked. Acorn became Hep2o, but it is basically the same same stuff. Polypipe is pretty much the same as the older style Hep2o. Personally I prefer it.
Excellent video - I am very experienced DIYer and learned
that I can use Compression joints on plastic - I didn't know that
You are not the only one. I know lots of plumbers who think only push-fit works on plastic. In many ways compression joints are better. I can't see any reason they would fail even after 50 years which is the guarantee period on the pipe. Watch out for future videos where we go to the factory and see the pipe being made and tested with a variety of fittings. Which will fail first?
So glad I found your channel Roger. I have learnt such a lot. I'm time rich and money poor, and decent tradespeople are very hard to find where I live (in the foreign!) so it's (hopefully) learn first, do next, and in my case measure 6 times and cut once!
We are glad to help. Take your time with everything and you will do a better job. There are no prizes for being first and people who rush end up doing it all again.
Brilliant informative video, about to take on a full bathroom revamp and your videos have helped and give me the confidence. Thank you 👌👌
Clear & concise. Just what I needed to understand. Thankyou very much sir.
1:56 the liner (insert) is used to strengthen the plastic pipe and stop it from deforming under compression, not so much for push fit. The o-ring will still "roll" over the sharp, freshly cut edge of the pipe and can get injured, especially if you do not use a lubricant and when you are working on site and there is grit, dust and contamination everywhere. Imagine pipes and fittings on the floor, plaster, brick, block and mortar particles everywhere, acting as sandpaper and cutting through the o-ring.
That leading edge on the liner is essential. If you don't use it the square end can damage the 'o' ring. I was on the JG Speedfit plumber's panel and this was a point they made.
Agree with you shares games. It`s to stop the pipe deforming at the joint, nothing to do with inserting.
@@SkillBuilder If you filed the leading edge would you need the insert? YES, it`s to stop the pipe deforming under pressure
I have a plastic speedfit on a copper pipe that a plumber quickly installed last year for an outdoor tap, unfortunately it leaks when under pressure so I haven't been able to use the tap yet. I'm thinking of swapping over to brass compression fittings, but those speedfits are tricky to take off especially in cramped locations, I think I will try the method you showed on here. Cheers! =)
Thank you Roger. Appreciate your professional advice. Another brilliant tutorial
Fantastic - thanks so much for this. The clearest and most comprehensive video on the topic I've found.
Very informative and I learnt a few things. Especially at the end with the push fittings on the chrome pipe. One thing I'd like to point out though is locking the JG Speedfit pipes actually compresses the rubber o-ring to create a better seal.
what a fantastic fella,and an amazing tutor in respect to plumbing😁👍cheers mate for your expertise,WELL HELPFUL 😁👍
Great guy, very informative, easy to understand - thanks
I like the ptfe tip not only is it useful belt and braces engineering but you actually get to see if the olive is correctly set in situ which for amateurs like me is always a concern.
Well in Roger
This is really helpful. I have seen people doing repairs on leaking underground pipes with joints which they would cover in the end. What are the joints/fittings that are OK to be buried underground? If it is a copper pipe, is it OK to have a soldered joint underground?
Learned a few things from this videos thanks!
Great video explains everything you need to know and from my pluming shop just down the road, I think we all just have to have more confidence in these push fittings I must admit it took me awhile but never had a problem with one yet, I have watched many of you videos and you explain this very clearly keep them coming
Thanks for your professional advice ....regards from Malta:)
One of the best instructional videos I have seen. I have done lots of copper, but your little tid bits of info are extremely informative. I need to know WHY I need to do things not just HOW to do things. Thank you from Canada!
Thanks a lot Roger learned new things especially taping ferrule, pipe inserts etc. Do you think you could post link to where one could buy the copper pipe cutter and the adjustable wrench.?
Great video Roger what kind of fitting would I use to go from 8,10mm copper to 15mm plastic for new radiators cheers
You can get pushfit for 10 to 15 but I use compression a lot of the time
@@SkillBuilder thank-you very much il try it thanks for the video picked up a lot of helpful simple advice
Just finishing my NVQ L2 Plumbing and learning more off these vids than the tutor who prefers to sit on his computer during practical 👍🏻
That is a real shame, so many people are let down by lazy teachers. I wish you the best of luck, there is a good living to be had. I have never been out of work and the freedom is great.
Really clear instruction - thank you for sharing such knowledge.
Excellent video, just wish I had seen it last week lol...redid the downstairs shower room In JG Speedfit (I'd also counted the pipe inserts so as not to miss any!), my biggest issue was getting the CW and HW connection to the brass compression fittings not to weep...Ended up putting 4 wraps of ptfe on just as he did and they've been perfect- I'll bear that in mind in the future about using it on copper pipe also...I bought a new pipe slice which I used to cut the PE-X pipe, took a lot of turns and just a final easy cut through the pipe with a sharp Stanley knife but left an excellent square end with no sharp edges. Once it's been used on copper the edge might not be as good but cheaper than plastic pipe cutting snip things.
I have used the pipeslice on plastic, nothing wrong with that.
Thanks for that another great video and reassuring to see that I've been doing it correctly, especially useful as I'm rebuilding the bathroom at the moment.
It says at the end of the video that you can't use stainless steel with push fit systems. With that in mind, will a stainless steel compression fitting accept a plastic pipe (like you showed at 03:20 with the copper fitting), and does it need the same inserts? Also, is there a way to transition from copper tube to stainless steel without using a small length of plastic tube in between the two? You can't put the two metals directly together due to corrosion, so plastic seems like a good transition material, but is there a better option?
This is a very useful video, I have been searching all over for this information. Very clear thank you!
Thanks Roger ,had a flood last night 5am! on main cold water ,no copper ring over pipe so it pulled apart , just put it back together using one , wasn't sure if I should but now I know I was right 👍👍👍
Somebody forgot to put an olive in and it held until 5a.m. It seems to happen like that.
Great Video with concise instructions for an average DIY home owner. Thanks for your video contribution and I look forward to your next posting. Cheers from USA
This is an upstanding man right here.
planning on doing my flat soon. pex tubing with copper compression joints under mains pressure is good and doable for an amateur?
great video, thanks very much.
Yes I think that is a good way to go. Just make sure you get the right liners and put one into every pipe end and you will be fine.
The compression joint will not pull off.
Is the liner not there to keep the pipe rigid in the connection
An excellent practical video and very helpful
Avery competent job was shown
Thanks
My friend you are a star and should have a million plus subscribers ...subbed
We are glad to have reached 100,000 but a million would be great.
Plumbing is my least favourite diy job! Great video very informative especially putting the ptfe on the olives thanks a lot 👍🏼
The gray push fit would you recomend on new build oil boiler? Just had it fitted and worry about leaks been told to crimp them
Omg, thank you so much for making this video. You have helped me A TON!
You are an absolute legend mate really appreciate your time putting this video together. I've just discovered a leaking pipe at a radiator that has these plastic pipes running into a copper fitting and wasn't sure how they are assembled therefore this has helped me big time. You've got yourself another like and Subscriber!! Thank you so much for your time 😊🍻👍
Glad it helped, we have oveer 800 videos now so hopefully that will keep you busy.
Like the idea of compression fittings with plastic pipe , an olive seems a better option than any proprietary gripper ring even though they are reliable , good vid, :)
Thank you for uploading! Thank you for your lecture and skill sharing.
Superstar skill builder strikes again 👍🙏👍
13:38 The problem, which not many are aware of, is that if you start by pushing the pipe all the way into the fitting, as you then start to tighten the nut, the olive bites on it and is PREVENTED from making a seal against the fitting, because it can move no further as the pipe has already hit the bottom. As you continue to tighten, the only way to make a seal is if the olive would slide on the pipe, but in most cases it will not. You will then continue to tighten to stop the leak thereby deforming the metals depending on your strength. If you remove the nut you will see the olive firmly stuck on the pipe and a large section of pipe past the olive and into the fitting. The proper way is to pull the pipe out a couple of mm before you start tightening, thus giving it room to move when the olive pushes it further into the fitting.
this doesnt make sence. you can always over tighten a nut
@@georgelonghurst2672 the nut bites on the olive, the olive bites into the copper tube and pushes the tube into the fitting by the same amount of travel as the nut. But if the copper tube is already fully inserted, it has nowhere to go. If you continue to tigthen one of the follwoing will happen: (a) you will not be strong enough (eg 28mm pipes), (b) the olive will slide forward (c) the olive and the tube will get deformed. Ideally you want (b), but why risk (a) and (c)? You must start by pushing the pipe all the way in, then retracting a few mm, hold steady, and then tighten. Those few mm will allow the tube to travel further into the fitting as it gets carried by the olive which has bitten into it.
Very informative, as ever. Maybe a future video could cover pressfit/crimping as an alternative to solder/compression/pushfit, both in copper and the dedicated plastic systems?
You are fantastic. What a superb video. Great production and you are a natural presenter. Thanks so much Roger.
Hi,brilliant videos,learn a lot from you. Do you get metal pipe inserts for use with compression fittings on plastic pipe? Just that they look like they are black...Regards,Richi.
You can use metal or plastic. The plastic ones without the 'o' ring at the end are the right ones for compression fittings but stainless steel are also good.
Another good pipe system is buataine. We had demo from the chap at work was very good 👍
Excellent video, very educational and informative. One question, some recommend using 'Fernox joining compound' , which is better and why? PTFE tape, joining compound. What is LS-X used for?
Paste is easier to apply 👍
Never used the JG Speedfit fittings on copper pipe as I've always been "old school" copper, but looks good. One important question though, does the fitting work just as well on the hot water pipework??
thanks buddy! a cornucopia of knowledge for anyone meddling with pipes. :) however a few shortcomings that i noticed: apparently there are two different types of inserts to use with plastic pipes. the one with the o ring in the middle for plastic fittings and the one without for copper. i'm not entirely sure if one can be used for the other or vice versa but you had no mention of the two versions. also it would be nice to know if an insert could be reused once installed and taken out or not. you did mention about the fittings and that plumbers normally chuck used ones away but nothing is about the inserts or if they can be or should be reused after taken out. it kinda makes sense not to do but still it would be nice to have that clarified. thanks a bunch for the video anyways. saved me a hefty bill on fitting an under counter filtration system.
So, how do you join plastic and copper waste pipes?
(In the video about waste pipes, you show only plastic pipes)
Brass compression fittings are made and designed not to have gunk or tape put on them. It defeats the object, and the brass compression ring is made to form a watertight seal against the pipe, either copper or plastic. 40 years plumbing never used tape or gunk on a compression fitting and not had a problem if you do the job correctly.
How do you know you haven't had a problem? I have been out to hundreds of leakiing compression fittings over the years.
I often use copper pipe with plastic pushfit, gives a degree of flexibility (easy rotation of the pipe) and great for tight spaces where getting tools in for a compression fittings are a shitemare and if the pipes are too wet for solder fittings.
Great point!
Excellent Video, A Question - Obvioulsy there's quite a Lot of Restriction on plastic Pipe (With Inserts) and Copper Pipe, so Is it better to go Up a size with Plastic ie 15 up to 22mm to overcome this?
Generally it is not worth increasing the bore size on hot water supplies. With heating and cold water is is worthwhile but keep in mind that plastic pipe generally has fewer joints and nice easy bends.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks Roger
Another great video Roger. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips. I love your thorough explanations. Keep up the good work!
Great video Roger, what do you suggest I cut the plastic pipe with?
They make great cutters now that work like scissors
Thank you so much you really make me glad and satisfied for such professional updated for an old engineer
Excellent tutorial as always. Comprehensive, highly skilled / experienced, intelligent step-by-step guides with clear explanations of the product / system / process.
Highly recommended 👌
Thank you for the glowing accolade. Just to keep my feet on the ground I will read a bit of my hate mail.
Great vids Roger I’m a paddy worked in London years ago went to NY then back to Ireland but now mostly NY I have an uncle in Maidstone so I find your videos and info really brilliant.l`m a mechanical engineer and you do a super job of showing the tools and such keep them going ,love watching
Thank you for your motorised valve video not easily accessible, but managed a grateful pensioner
Hi. Brilliant video. Very informative and helpful. Thanks
Hi Roger, good video as usual but reading the comments it looks like most viewers are from the diy side so you could have mentioned the pros and cons of different methods as most plumbing takes place not in the showroom or classroom where pipes are clean, dry and access is good.
For the professional a mention of the crimp system might be useful. I know it’s costly to set up and a pain for following plumbers to make adjustments or even join on to but I’m seeing more of it out here on sites.
Quick question rog can you use copper press fit on speed fit pipe with a insert ? Thanks 👍🏻
There are press fit systems for Pex and polybuteline but some have an integral liner on the fitting. I don't think you can use a Speedfit insert