Thanks for this video. I just had a main water valve repaired. Since they had to shut off the water at the street I called a professional. The valve was right next to my oil tank, so they went with pro-press. I had never seen this before, but Richard put my mind at ease that this is a legit repair. The repair is solid, no leaks. It just looked different because it was crimped. I was used to seeing soldered connections.
I like Richard's approach here. Like most things, there are pluses and minuses to everything in life. The important thing is in knowing what the minuses are, and how to take advantage of the pluses.
The only downside to using compression fittings that employ brass ferrules is, most DIY types that are not familiar with compression fittings will most always overtighten the nut, thus crushing the ferrule, resulting in a leak. I always tell those new to compression fittings to tighten the nut just enough to hold the fitting together under water pressure and then turn the water on. At that point the fitting will most likely leak but I then tell them to continue tightening the nut until the leak stops, and then tighten about a quarter turn more. If overtightened, the ferrule will be crushed, and it will never stop leaking. The only fix then is to cut the tubing below the ferrule and start over with a new ferrule. Following this tip will result in far less frustration and fewer trips to the store to get a new ferrule (or fitting). As always, great video Rich.
i'm planning to have everything up to the shutoff valve in the bathroom be soldered copper piping. everything after that, i'm going to do PEX-A and install electronic water detection unit that will activate shut-off valve in event of leaks.
I had to install a new hose bib and shut off. Used the quick connect shut off and it was so easy and so far so good! I actually have an ounce of cofidence now when I have to tackle a easy plumbing issue!
I had air conditioning installed, and they used a press system like the one shown here to put an elbow in one of the refrigerant lines. If it's good enough for refrigerant, it's probably good enough for water.
Even if you don’t prefer push to connect fittings they definitely have a place in the industry. Maybe a pipe busted but its the holidays or the plumber just can’t make it out to you right away. Its a easy enough solution to solve the problem and keep everything functional until someone can come out.
I still carry solder fittings and a torch kit in my van, but I press whatever I can whenever I can. Being a service plumber, propress is hard to beat. Sure the fittings are expensive, but the amount of time I save is worth every penny. My press gun has paid for itself a hundred times over already.
Thanks Richard. I used the push connector and it held just fine...at least for now. This is after getting an estimate of $600 to fix an external copper pipe that cracked after a rare frozen day in Atlanta.
Without exposure to sunlight or grease, Buna-N will last hundreds of years. A properly soldered joint might also, but they are susceptible to cracking as houses age and settle. Especially the trash stick-built houses here in the US. The o-ring fittings have a ton of compliance and will remain watertight long after a soldered joint would've kinked the pipe or cracked. If you live where it gets cold, and you're building a new house, it's foolish to put any copper. Matt Risinger has a great series where he freezes a bunch of pipes which is worth watching. Crimped PEX will not burst, doesn't corrode if you put another metal near it, doesn't care if your house settles an 1/8th or a foot, needs half as many fittings, can be run properly and quickly by an apprentice's blind dog, and will still be around long after landfills are being explored by whatever aliens happen upon this planet after we burn it down. I love to solder; there's a real pride in skilled tradecraft done well, but it's only appropriate for minor repairs to existing systems.
A plumber used ProPress on the pipes leading to my water heater. Seemed like that was not a situation where they should be used, since they can't be removed when the time comes to replace the water heater. You would always have to cut the pipe rather than just torch off the fittings if they were soldered on.
Pex plumbing. Cheaper, doesn't freeze and if it does, it expands to 40x the diameter of the pipe. No corners, it's flexible and goes around and through everything. It's also much cheaper and truly DIY.
Forty times its original diameter? That is super stretchy. But I can't picture how that looks. When water freezes, its original volume expands by about 9%. I am going to assume that this 9% is divided equally in all directions in a radial manner along the tubing, essentially increasing its overall diameter. How does the number you referenced fit into this or am I missing something? Thanks in advance.
@timmueller1314 6 minutes ago (edited) To prevent burning your house down using soldered copper, just use a 32 oz spray bottle filled with water and heavily mist the whole area around where you're going to be soldering. If you can fit a piece of sheet metal behind the joint, do that too. If not, it's ok, the wood or drywall behind the joint will get a little surface charred but that's it. You don't have to worry about fire spread. When done soldering, mist everything down again just to make sure, it will also cool off the joint. I've replaced most of the galvanized pipe in my over hundred year old house with copper myself and never had a problem.
I live in an old house. All my copper fittings are flare fittings. Funny thing, the guy didn't put individual shut off valves on each fixture. I've rebuilt my kitchen sink with shut off valves, my bathroom sink with individual shut off valves, my hot water tank with. shut off valves. On the hot water tank I had to go from the flare end - cut it off - and ended up with compression fittings with the ferrel fitting. Now I'm planning to rebuild by tub. It looks like a shut off valve is not. going to work in the confined space with that flare fitting. I'm not sure I can find a shut off valve for a flared fitting either. I'm 77 years old. I bought this house from a 95 year old man who built the house himself. Lots of things, electricity, plumbing, HVAC all have major issues. Not easy to deal with all of this when you are living in a house. I bought the house 50 years ago. I'm going to try to get something to connect to the flared fitting or cut the copper off and look for a fitting similar to what you demonstrated. I love the two acres on which this house is build but it sure is a project house as my 50 year old daughter lets me know. I'm going to build another unit on this property at some point, if I live long enough.
flare connections are unusual for domestic water and you probably should move away from them because there's very little sold to work with them. You say the space by the tub is confined but had you thought to install an access door on the other side of the wall? You could also install the shut off in the basement (or closet below the tub) then get an access door that would set flush with the drywall.
@@rupe53 I totally agree. Flare connections are rare. The guy that installed them thought, at the time, that flare fittings were the best. I've found them nearly impossible to work with. The bathroom/tub is 40 feet or so away from the supply. All fittings are flare. I just hope I can find something that I can connect to those pipes without going back to the supply. My pipes run through a crawl space less than 2 feet deep. I avoid that crawl space as much as possible because of the dust, cobwebs, rock hard clay like soil that I have to crawl on. The existing flare fitting by the tub have a half dozen various connectors to get to the tub valves. It will be a nightmare. I have a pretty good plumbing supply company about 20 miles from my house. I don't intend to completely disconnect the hot and cold at the tub until I figure out where to shut off the water to the entire house. My next job is to install shut off valves. Next will be to turn the water on for the rest of the house. You gave me a good idea and that was to trace the pipes directly to the supply location and perhaps install a shut off valve at the meter supply location. Again, the lines are not direct to the shower. Part of these lines branch off for the toilet and the bathroom sink. I got a price of $10,000 from Lowe's to completely rebuild my bathroom. That's a minimum price. I've got to continue to investigate all of this in much greater detail before I hire someone or attempt a project that may take days for a non-professional like myself. All I can see now is those flare supply lines. This all started with a broken stem on the hot water in the shower. I can't find a stem to replace the old one. I mean really old. I shopped ACE, Menards so far. It will take more days investigating my options. Thanks for your input. Good suggestions.
@@juligrlee556 ... BTW, you may find the previous owner used soft tubing (to snake it through the walls) instead of regular pipe. In that case the pipe's outside diameter may also be odd. I ran into that on my house which was originally built in 1911 but upgraded in the 70s.
@@rupe53 When I was 17 years old I owned a Motorcycle that required flared fittings in the fuel lines. My fuel line broke. I bought a flaring kit. It has a half dozen sizes to use for the flare to be fixed. I still have that flaring kit but I'm sure it would take me months to find it in stuff "put in a safe place where it would be easy to find". Every move I've ever made in my life more and more stuff goes to the bottom of the horizontal filing system (piles of junk). I do agree there could be all kinds of irregular sized pipes. I'll be carefully measuring the ID and OD of these pipes. My last 2 daymare/nightmare had leftover flare pipe that seemed to be typical throughout the house. I'm trying to avoid taking the entire pipe out back to the supply and replacing it with PEX. I've soldered copper pipe many times but I've never used PEX. I do wish I had a manifold at the meter, perhaps copper, from which to run individual water lines as needed. The pipe modifications and age of the system probably would benefit greatly with a complete rebuild. I hate to make of heaping mountain of copper pipe out of a small broken shut off valve in the tub. One day at a time. I was able to cobble together what I needed to completely shut off the cold water in the tub and control the water temps from the tank heat adjustment. Half the fixture works. Sounds like a bigger problem than I originally thought it would be, just finding a stem to fit the fixture. My did used to tell me that every little plumbing problem has the potential to turn into a bigger problem because metal can loosen up because of corrosion. He used to work in a salt refinery where he had to deal with corroded pipes all day long.
Sharkbites are easy so you get alot of dummy's using them and even then they don't do their due diligence and install them correctly. I've seen ppl use polybutylene fittings on copper. They make a deburring and marking tool so you don't violate that o ring and actually know your deep enough for a secure connection .
@@Off-Grid There's nothing perfect. No questions there. I'm a self employed 27 yr in the industry. I was called to investigate one blew off a copper connection at a water heater. 8k square ft home with 3' of water in the lower level. I saw the fitting first hand. 100% certain it was defective. When they sent it to the manufacturer,they denied any responsibility. They have more money for lawyers,no doubt. It's never the mistake made,it's more important to grade the response. Based on that experience,I will never install them nor advise it's a good idea.
I needed to add a shutoff to a water line in the basement. I know how to solder, but wanted to try something new, so I installed a push-on type ball valve shutoff. The job was quick, and clean. Cutting the copper pipe took longer than installing the valve.
What if I use sharkbite push connector on a pex-a will it reduce the pressure. I am repositioning a 3 ft hydronic baseboard 4ft away and thinking of using pex-a with sharkbite to transition from copper to pex to connect the loop.
I'm tapping a sprinkler line into the waterline in my basement. I'd definitely prefer to do solder connections, but I just don't have the experience and it's not something I want to screw up. For as few connections as I'm making, it just makes way more sense for me to use something like SharkBite fittings. I am going to try solder connections on the outside where the pipe can't be allowed to rotate, and I'm more comfortable with a leak forming.
Okay I was a bit harsh on Richard in his soldering video, but he earned some points back here Be open-minded to new technologies, that's how we progress Good video 👍
@@Doomzdayxx It's likely to develop pinhole leaks in approx. 50 years, especially if too much flux was used. The flux slowly eats away at the material. Also I do not recommend using copper in places with well water, sulfur eats copper... several years ago was under my grandparents' cottage, in the damp crawl space with the spiders, re-soldering pinhole leaks to get the water back up, before our friends arrived. As an HVAC contractor and business owner, these days I have other things to do than playing with copper pipe💸💸☕✈️
@@walterbrunswick You're talking about poorly installed copper fittings. You do realize that it's easy to incorrectly install pex, cpvc, etc also? Also, the house that I live in has 70 year old copper pipe. No leaks. Again, it has a proven track record. The others dont have that extensive of a record yet. Jury is still out ..
@@Doomzdayxx As far as close-minded goes, I have many hundreds of dollars of copper pipe and fittings, and thousands of dollars invested in soldering equipment (I'm a tool nut & collector), but I opt for PEX in new installs and remodels (unless everything is done in copper and it's a minor change, then it's reasonable to keep everything the same). A 1000' coil of PEX-a tubing is a beautiful thing.
@@walterbrunswick yeah pex is definitely way cheaper and faster to install. There are some parallels in this argument with wire nuts vs wagos in the electrical trade. Again with that, I choose wire nuts which are proven over many decades. If installed correctly of course.
I used to be in the camp of avoid sharkbites because of the cost, but after having fought water while soldiering on a couple repairs, I've switched 180 to if they make a sharkbite for it, I'm buying it. Made the mistake of using one on a tub spout repair though....forgot they spun🤦♂️
Have you noticed any downfalls to them? I have been looking into propress for around my property and rentals, but I don't have any experience with them. Alot of the plumbers I've worked around are split on it as well. About half love them, but most of the older guys are still sweating joints.
There’s RUclipsrs out there that like sharkbite style and the crimp style. If you have a few properties, the crimp style (there are multiple kinds) would be cheaper in the long run. Shark bite is still good if you only need one piece and don’t have any tools, just rubber seals are known to leak every so often. Shark bites in my opinion are better for something you plan on changing in 20-30 years like your faucet ends, toilet water line, etc. This example is like people remodeling their bathroom or kitchen.
@@StuffTested I usually sweat everything, but I'm actually in the process of remodeling my parents bathroom, and I'm looking into doing something different.
I work for a home remodeling company and every plumber I talk to loves propress. They still do sweat joints for shower valves. Issue for propress is the buy in. Costs about 2-3k. As for shark bite, yes they are a fantastic item but I believe many plumbing codes prohibit them from being used inside finished walls.
if you have the headroom for a ProPress its way better. no risk of fire, way quicker. just people are scared cause the fittings cost more. but people forget labor is by far the main cost, and propress is way quicker.
The reason people knock the quick connects is they forget to prep... PREP is key to ANY plumbing work, as well as anything construction or building related.
Cut & ream (deburr), but don't sand; you want a clean SMOOTH surface for the O-ring to seal against Sanding creates a rough surface, great for solder adhesion Got2Learn posted a good video about this
Soldering is great until you need something fixed at 10pm on a saturday. Sharkbite has kept the water flowing everywhere but the break for me until the Lowes opened up.
They work great. You can attach copper to cpvc or pex easily because they're the same diameter. Iron pipe and pvc have different diameters, but they have fittings to compensate for it. Just make sure you prep the pipe first and you're gold.
@2:50: Sorry, Rich, but that Sharkbite will push off before the pipe bursts. I've seen enough leaks from frozen Sharkbite fittings. They're good, but they can't freeze. Anyone who says otherwise is probably trying to sell you Sharkbite fittings and won't cover the bill for water damage.
Anyone know what tool is used in the video and where to get one? Even if it's over $1,000 you will likely break even on a single DIY job and save thousands over the years as a homeowner. I saved about $800 replacing a pipe to an outdoor bib in my basement, but I used sharkbite connections that I want to replace one day when I get the courage and time to try soldering. But if the crimping tool is just as solid I would go with that instead as is seems like it requires less skill and less prone to error from inexperience.
Two words. Shark Bite. The brand makes fittings for all fixtures. Used throughout my home after full reno. Saved me thousands and thaught myself how to plumb easily for my own home.
I recommend the removal tool for them if you use them. It only costs about $10.00. I got mine at Lowe's. They seem to carry more Shark Bite fittings than Home Cheapo.
2 questions….. 1. Can this be used on Applicances to be precise refrigerator a/c lines. They are copper. Instead of soldering/ brazing? 2. If so is there solderless options available for fridge a/c lines? Please anyone answer thanks everyone
Always the pro Richard shows how you can easily burn wood by near by copper pipes, so stay away from that... that is unless you're smart enough to grab a relatively in expensive fire/heat resistant cloth that's also sold in the plumbing section that's specifically made to protect the wood from flame
Copper cost so much there's no reason to go back to it unless the job site is already all copper. Just go PEX. My dad was a plumber for almost 50 years and he championed PEX in the end as the best thing possible.
PEX is rated for behind walls. I've used it behind shower walls and no problem so far after 12 years. I left a little slack between connections. I really liked using it to run water about 150 feet out of the garage into the back of the back yard so I had a water source for plants, etc. The pex is cheap and actually kind of fun to plug and play. I blow out the outside lines but if some water does get in there and split a section it's simple and cheap to repair. I also used the sharkbite fitting enables steel brained hoses to connect a new water heater. One thing that is nice about how you can spin the pipe in the fitting is if there was a leak in the threaded fitting to the top of the WH after it's all connected, just tighten that fitting. Couldn't do that with soldered connection
@@kalijasin Two kinds of plastic pipe. PEX and CPCV. Use CPVC for in home use where the water may be consumed. PEX strictly for outdoor or I figured the shower is OK as I'm not going to be drinking from the shower nozzle.
Shark bites are expensive but allow a homeowner to do a quick job. Solder not going anywhere cause it’s still so cheap compared to anything else when using copper. Now if you go pex.. crimp it up
Nothing is perfect. I think people in the trades just get comfortable with one method and that’s it for them. Not everyone but I’m sure when plumbers started gluing pvc the generation before them said it was crap and would never catch on.
"No home owner is going to do this." Incorrect, I'm doing it now. Vevor ProPress $580, 3 jaws (1/2,3/4,1), HD and Lowes sells the fittings... WAY cheaper than a plumber to complete even a basic job.
I don't trust anything that has O ring and can't be either fixed periodically, or it isn't designed to be in temporarily used object and after use it is trashed. That is little bit same thing with piping, you need to have easy access to all of them. Be a secret door or hatch, or easily removable cover.
These are not your fathers O rings. Technology has been thoroughly tested it does not fail. Richard showed a perfect example where the pipe failed before the fitting did. If that’s not proof enough what is.
@@wm5723 I don't talk about your father O rings, but latest and greatest where even single O ring can cost thousands of dollars because highest possible design.
I will never believe a rubber o ring has the same longevity as a soldered connection. Also I've seen too many shark bites fail to trust them for any thing that is permanent, they are handy for things that get taken apart occasionally.
See if you can answer this how much heat transfer does using metal clips to hold the pipe lose,does it go in your calculations.O I’m just a plumber wrong answer
Sharkbites are expensive but try a plumber and you will quickly realize how cheap a shark bite really is. Any repair on a leaky pipe will run you at a minimum of $150 to $200!
I had a shower control replaced 12 years ago by a plumber for over $200 - with two leaking solder joints. (I fixed them). This week, I replaced it for $175 ($99 for shower control and $75 for sharkbite parts). The plumber would have been at least $250.
Only a fool would say an o-ring joint is not water right. They are. Google how o-rings work, how they deform even more and seal even when the pressure is increased. But.. But the o-ring is never going to last as long as a soldered connection. I was a huge proponent of “sharkbite” (or pushfit as we call it in 🇬🇧) but I have since moved back to solder. I only solder now. So it’s not about “leaking”, for me it’s about longevity.
@@oambrosia agreed. I've seen copper in "new" homes (30years) leak due to scouring and corrosion with in (not at a joint). Was it cheap crap copper or improperly installed copper flux. Who knows.
Come on guys, Europe has moved on from solder less that you're reporting on ages ago, except in legacy systems. We've moved on to plastic pipe and plastic fittings some time ago with "John Guest speedfit"
Call me old fashioned if you want. I'm sticking with solder joints. It's much more economical and doesn't require a lot of specialized tools. By using conventional methods those savings can be passed on to the consumer.
Flanged, compression fittings are, in these days, way less reliable and repeatable than shark bites. I would say even professionally (outside of HVAC where pipes carry very hot or cold liquid and gas) shark bites have more use than compression.
Id like to see that rubber not leak after 30 years. Bunch of cheap, lazy production crews trying to bang out a home a week cutting corners with the fast and lazy method.
Thanks for this video. I just had a main water valve repaired. Since they had to shut off the water at the street I called a professional. The valve was right next to my oil tank, so they went with pro-press. I had never seen this before, but Richard put my mind at ease that this is a legit repair. The repair is solid, no leaks. It just looked different because it was crimped. I was used to seeing soldered connections.
I want to do an internship under Richard. He is just an encyclopedia of knowledge.
I'd be happy from anyone on the crew, but I'd love all of them!
These guys know a LOT
Richard is a certified expert in copper piping.
I like Richard's approach here. Like most things, there are pluses and minuses to everything in life. The important thing is in knowing what the minuses are, and how to take advantage of the pluses.
The only downside to using compression fittings that employ brass ferrules is, most DIY types that are not familiar with compression fittings will most always overtighten the nut, thus crushing the ferrule, resulting in a leak. I always tell those new to compression fittings to tighten the nut just enough to hold the fitting together under water pressure and then turn the water on. At that point the fitting will most likely leak but I then tell them to continue tightening the nut until the leak stops, and then tighten about a quarter turn more. If overtightened, the ferrule will be crushed, and it will never stop leaking. The only fix then is to cut the tubing below the ferrule and start over with a new ferrule. Following this tip will result in far less frustration and fewer trips to the store to get a new ferrule (or fitting). As always, great video Rich.
Soldered copper pipe for life. Nothing beats the peace of mind a properly soldered pipe brings.
Good luck bidding against the new generation ✌️
I don't know, I've seen a lot of failed soldered fittings. Have yet to see a failed sharkbite fitting.
Solder connections work great...until they don't. I've seen too many failed solder connections. Nothing gives me piece of mind like pro crimp
i'm planning to have everything up to the shutoff valve in the bathroom be soldered copper piping.
everything after that, i'm going to do PEX-A and install electronic water detection unit that will activate shut-off valve in event of leaks.
All are subject to proper fit and installation (quality workmanship.)
I had to install a new hose bib and shut off. Used the quick connect shut off and it was so easy and so far so good! I actually have an ounce of cofidence now when I have to tackle a easy plumbing issue!
Just saw this episode on tv. Thanks for uploading my favorite REAL TRADESMAN show for the past 40+ years.
I agree and have been watching for at least 30yrs I'd guess
This old house they are number one in my books.
I had air conditioning installed, and they used a press system like the one shown here to put an elbow in one of the refrigerant lines. If it's good enough for refrigerant, it's probably good enough for water.
Refrigerant fitting are different
@@ZIBO2830 the fitting construction is slightly different, but the design principle is the same: crimped metal-to-metal with an EPDM O-ring seal
A lot of things come with push connect already installed.
Pressure for refrigeration is 4x higher than your standard water pressure.
Richard is chief grandmaster of copper piping systems.
Thanks for the honest comments. So many people rely on your expertise….
Even if you don’t prefer push to connect fittings they definitely have a place in the industry. Maybe a pipe busted but its the holidays or the plumber just can’t make it out to you right away. Its a easy enough solution to solve the problem and keep everything functional until someone can come out.
They are great in a pinch
I keep sharkbite end caps on me all the time. You can cap off a live pipe in seconds
I still carry solder fittings and a torch kit in my van, but I press whatever I can whenever I can. Being a service plumber, propress is hard to beat. Sure the fittings are expensive, but the amount of time I save is worth every penny. My press gun has paid for itself a hundred times over already.
This
saves time and headache on hot work permits too
I don't have a problem using them
Thanks Richard. I used the push connector and it held just fine...at least for now. This is after getting an estimate of $600 to fix an external copper pipe that cracked after a rare frozen day in Atlanta.
What is the life expecting of the O rings compared to solder
Without exposure to sunlight or grease, Buna-N will last hundreds of years. A properly soldered joint might also, but they are susceptible to cracking as houses age and settle. Especially the trash stick-built houses here in the US. The o-ring fittings have a ton of compliance and will remain watertight long after a soldered joint would've kinked the pipe or cracked. If you live where it gets cold, and you're building a new house, it's foolish to put any copper. Matt Risinger has a great series where he freezes a bunch of pipes which is worth watching. Crimped PEX will not burst, doesn't corrode if you put another metal near it, doesn't care if your house settles an 1/8th or a foot, needs half as many fittings, can be run properly and quickly by an apprentice's blind dog, and will still be around long after landfills are being explored by whatever aliens happen upon this planet after we burn it down. I love to solder; there's a real pride in skilled tradecraft done well, but it's only appropriate for minor repairs to existing systems.
According to manufacturers, they have the same life expectancy. I've heard approx 50 years.
I'm going on 15yrs with one if the first ones I installed. No leaks so far
This is what I’ve learned and been taught and seems to work well
Solder: whenever possible,
Pro Press: whenever needed,
Sharkbite: temporary solution
A plumber used ProPress on the pipes leading to my water heater. Seemed like that was not a situation where they should be used, since they can't be removed when the time comes to replace the water heater. You would always have to cut the pipe rather than just torch off the fittings if they were soldered on.
Pex plumbing. Cheaper, doesn't freeze and if it does, it expands to 40x the diameter of the pipe. No corners, it's flexible and goes around and through everything. It's also much cheaper and truly DIY.
Forty times its original diameter? That is super stretchy. But I can't picture how that looks. When water freezes, its original volume expands by about 9%. I am going to assume that this 9% is divided equally in all directions in a radial manner along the tubing, essentially increasing its overall diameter. How does the number you referenced fit into this or am I missing something?
Thanks in advance.
@timmueller1314
6 minutes ago (edited)
To prevent burning your house down using soldered copper, just use a 32 oz spray bottle filled with water and heavily mist the whole area around where you're going to be soldering. If you can fit a piece of sheet metal behind the joint, do that too. If not, it's ok, the wood or drywall behind the joint will get a little surface charred but that's it. You don't have to worry about fire spread. When done soldering, mist everything down again just to make sure, it will also cool off the joint. I've replaced most of the galvanized pipe in my over hundred year old house with copper myself and never had a problem.
I've seen plumbers use aluminum tape to make a customized heat shield in whatever confines they were working on.
I've always used compression when dealing g with copper as a homeowner
That's what commercial guys use
Got a video of old galvanized pipe ptoblems and then how to replace a section with copper?
I live in an old house. All my copper fittings are flare fittings. Funny thing, the guy didn't put individual shut off valves on each fixture. I've rebuilt my kitchen sink with shut off valves, my bathroom sink with individual shut off valves, my hot water tank with. shut off valves. On the hot water tank I had to go from the flare end - cut it off - and ended up with compression fittings with the ferrel fitting. Now I'm planning to rebuild by tub. It looks like a shut off valve is not. going to work in the confined space with that flare fitting. I'm not sure I can find a shut off valve for a flared fitting either. I'm 77 years old. I bought this house from a 95 year old man who built the house himself. Lots of things, electricity, plumbing, HVAC all have major issues. Not easy to deal with all of this when you are living in a house. I bought the house 50 years ago. I'm going to try to get something to connect to the flared fitting or cut the copper off and look for a fitting similar to what you demonstrated. I love the two acres on which this house is build but it sure is a project house as my 50 year old daughter lets me know. I'm going to build another unit on this property at some point, if I live long enough.
flare connections are unusual for domestic water and you probably should move away from them because there's very little sold to work with them. You say the space by the tub is confined but had you thought to install an access door on the other side of the wall? You could also install the shut off in the basement (or closet below the tub) then get an access door that would set flush with the drywall.
@@rupe53 I totally agree. Flare connections are rare. The guy that installed them thought, at the time, that flare fittings were the best. I've found them nearly impossible to work with. The bathroom/tub is 40 feet or so away from the supply. All fittings are flare. I just hope I can find something that I can connect to those pipes without going back to the supply. My pipes run through a crawl space less than 2 feet deep. I avoid that crawl space as much as possible because of the dust, cobwebs, rock hard clay like soil that I have to crawl on. The existing flare fitting by the tub have a half dozen various connectors to get to the tub valves. It will be a nightmare. I have a pretty good plumbing supply company about 20 miles from my house. I don't intend to completely disconnect the hot and cold at the tub until I figure out where to shut off the water to the entire house. My next job is to install shut off valves. Next will be to turn the water on for the rest of the house. You gave me a good idea and that was to trace the pipes directly to the supply location and perhaps install a shut off valve at the meter supply location. Again, the lines are not direct to the shower. Part of these lines branch off for the toilet and the bathroom sink. I got a price of $10,000 from Lowe's to completely rebuild my bathroom. That's a minimum price. I've got to continue to investigate all of this in much greater detail before I hire someone or attempt a project that may take days for a non-professional like myself. All I can see now is those flare supply lines. This all started with a broken stem on the hot water in the shower. I can't find a stem to replace the old one. I mean really old. I shopped ACE, Menards so far. It will take more days investigating my options. Thanks for your input. Good suggestions.
@@juligrlee556 ... BTW, you may find the previous owner used soft tubing (to snake it through the walls) instead of regular pipe. In that case the pipe's outside diameter may also be odd. I ran into that on my house which was originally built in 1911 but upgraded in the 70s.
@@rupe53 When I was 17 years old I owned a Motorcycle that required flared fittings in the fuel lines. My fuel line broke. I bought a flaring kit. It has a half dozen sizes to use for the flare to be fixed. I still have that flaring kit but I'm sure it would take me months to find it in stuff "put in a safe place where it would be easy to find". Every move I've ever made in my life more and more stuff goes to the bottom of the horizontal filing system (piles of junk). I do agree there could be all kinds of irregular sized pipes. I'll be carefully measuring the ID and OD of these pipes. My last 2 daymare/nightmare had leftover flare pipe that seemed to be typical throughout the house. I'm trying to avoid taking the entire pipe out back to the supply and replacing it with PEX. I've soldered copper pipe many times but I've never used PEX. I do wish I had a manifold at the meter, perhaps copper, from which to run individual water lines as needed. The pipe modifications and age of the system probably would benefit greatly with a complete rebuild. I hate to make of heaping mountain of copper pipe out of a small broken shut off valve in the tub. One day at a time. I was able to cobble together what I needed to completely shut off the cold water in the tub and control the water temps from the tank heat adjustment. Half the fixture works. Sounds like a bigger problem than I originally thought it would be, just finding a stem to fit the fixture. My did used to tell me that every little plumbing problem has the potential to turn into a bigger problem because metal can loosen up because of corrosion. He used to work in a salt refinery where he had to deal with corroded pipes all day long.
1:57, The thing is, what if I had to connect this "crimp fitting" inside a wall, how then do I get a tool that will fit inside a tight space?
Sharkbites are easy so you get alot of dummy's using them and even then they don't do their due diligence and install them correctly. I've seen ppl use polybutylene fittings on copper. They make a deburring and marking tool so you don't violate that o ring and actually know your deep enough for a secure connection .
Paying a plumber for installing a sharkbite is like paying a hooker to cuddle
@@kevinw7575 lol!
I've installed sharkbite fittings since they first came out. Have yet to see one fail.
@@Off-Grid
There's nothing perfect. No questions there. I'm a self employed 27 yr in the industry. I was called to investigate one blew off a copper connection at a water heater. 8k square ft home with 3' of water in the lower level. I saw the fitting first hand. 100% certain it was defective. When they sent it to the manufacturer,they denied any responsibility. They have more money for lawyers,no doubt. It's never the mistake made,it's more important to grade the response.
Based on that experience,I will never install them nor advise it's a good idea.
Finally somebody not bashing push-to-fit. Man, how refreshing.
Torch the best and cheapest next is pex
We're do I get the tool to disconnect the sharkbite adapter like the one he has??
What a wonder video and just what I needed to see. So interesting and thorough. You all are good.
I needed to add a shutoff to a water line in the basement. I know how to solder, but wanted to try something new, so I installed a push-on type ball valve shutoff. The job was quick, and clean. Cutting the copper pipe took longer than installing the valve.
“We still wear cuffs on pants don’t we”
.. and pleats at the waist!
What if I use sharkbite push connector on a pex-a will it reduce the pressure. I am repositioning a 3 ft hydronic baseboard 4ft away and thinking of using pex-a with sharkbite to transition from copper to pex to connect the loop.
I'm tapping a sprinkler line into the waterline in my basement. I'd definitely prefer to do solder connections, but I just don't have the experience and it's not something I want to screw up. For as few connections as I'm making, it just makes way more sense for me to use something like SharkBite fittings. I am going to try solder connections on the outside where the pipe can't be allowed to rotate, and I'm more comfortable with a leak forming.
Okay I was a bit harsh on Richard in his soldering video, but he earned some points back here
Be open-minded to new technologies, that's how we progress
Good video 👍
Agreed. But I will add, don't be closed-minded to old proven technologies either. And soldered copper pipe is proven.
@@Doomzdayxx It's likely to develop pinhole leaks in approx. 50 years, especially if too much flux was used. The flux slowly eats away at the material.
Also I do not recommend using copper in places with well water, sulfur eats copper... several years ago was under my grandparents' cottage, in the damp crawl space with the spiders, re-soldering pinhole leaks to get the water back up, before our friends arrived.
As an HVAC contractor and business owner, these days I have other things to do than playing with copper pipe💸💸☕✈️
@@walterbrunswick You're talking about poorly installed copper fittings. You do realize that it's easy to incorrectly install pex, cpvc, etc also?
Also, the house that I live in has 70 year old copper pipe. No leaks. Again, it has a proven track record. The others dont have that extensive of a record yet. Jury is still out ..
@@Doomzdayxx As far as close-minded goes, I have many hundreds of dollars of copper pipe and fittings, and thousands of dollars invested in soldering equipment (I'm a tool nut & collector), but I opt for PEX in new installs and remodels (unless everything is done in copper and it's a minor change, then it's reasonable to keep everything the same).
A 1000' coil of PEX-a tubing is a beautiful thing.
@@walterbrunswick yeah pex is definitely way cheaper and faster to install. There are some parallels in this argument with wire nuts vs wagos in the electrical trade. Again with that, I choose wire nuts which are proven over many decades. If installed correctly of course.
welding is never goes away because most of the pipe is under the house and contaminant, rodent, and mostly extreme temperature cycle each season.
Torch because it's so cheap and easy.
Great overview
I used to be in the camp of avoid sharkbites because of the cost, but after having fought water while soldiering on a couple repairs, I've switched 180 to if they make a sharkbite for it, I'm buying it.
Made the mistake of using one on a tub spout repair though....forgot they spun🤦♂️
Which is to Richard's point. If you can't easily stop the flow of water it is definitely the right choice!
@@oambrosia the water was stopped, the remaining water was condensating in the pipe when I heated it and pushing out through the joint.
Yeah, the spinning is a bit annoying sometimes.
I'd never put a sharkbite behind a wall but I agree they are great in exposed areas.
Running pex from start to end via a manifold is the way to go
A tight O ring is essential in life.
Thanks. Cost will drive the way the industry goes. Solder is mostly for pros, while Sharkbites are for mostly for homeowners.
I've been using shark bites for well over 20 years and I have never had a problem with any of them
Me too. Have yet to have one fail. They are expensive but a heck of a lot cheaper than a plumber.
old flame will never die
Kind of already has. I haven't seen copper installed in a new construction in at least 10 years.
Have you noticed any downfalls to them? I have been looking into propress for around my property and rentals, but I don't have any experience with them. Alot of the plumbers I've worked around are split on it as well. About half love them, but most of the older guys are still sweating joints.
There’s RUclipsrs out there that like sharkbite style and the crimp style. If you have a few properties, the crimp style (there are multiple kinds) would be cheaper in the long run. Shark bite is still good if you only need one piece and don’t have any tools, just rubber seals are known to leak every so often.
Shark bites in my opinion are better for something you plan on changing in 20-30 years like your faucet ends, toilet water line, etc. This example is like people remodeling their bathroom or kitchen.
@@StuffTested I usually sweat everything, but I'm actually in the process of remodeling my parents bathroom, and I'm looking into doing something different.
I work for a home remodeling company and every plumber I talk to loves propress. They still do sweat joints for shower valves. Issue for propress is the buy in. Costs about 2-3k. As for shark bite, yes they are a fantastic item but I believe many plumbing codes prohibit them from being used inside finished walls.
I've installed these a lot, even 4' down on a water line and buried it 16yrs ago. It hasn't failed.
if you have the headroom for a ProPress its way better. no risk of fire, way quicker. just people are scared cause the fittings cost more. but people forget labor is by far the main cost, and propress is way quicker.
The reason people knock the quick connects is they forget to prep... PREP is key to ANY plumbing work, as well as anything construction or building related.
Cut & ream (deburr), but don't sand; you want a clean SMOOTH surface for the O-ring to seal against
Sanding creates a rough surface, great for solder adhesion
Got2Learn posted a good video about this
Soldering is great until you need something fixed at 10pm on a saturday. Sharkbite has kept the water flowing everywhere but the break for me until the Lowes opened up.
How do push connect fittings work on plastic/pex pipes?
They work great. You can attach copper to cpvc or pex easily because they're the same diameter. Iron pipe and pvc have different diameters, but they have fittings to compensate for it. Just make sure you prep the pipe first and you're gold.
Works great
@2:50: Sorry, Rich, but that Sharkbite will push off before the pipe bursts. I've seen enough leaks from frozen Sharkbite fittings. They're good, but they can't freeze. Anyone who says otherwise is probably trying to sell you Sharkbite fittings and won't cover the bill for water damage.
Anyone know what tool is used in the video and where to get one? Even if it's over $1,000 you will likely break even on a single DIY job and save thousands over the years as a homeowner. I saved about $800 replacing a pipe to an outdoor bib in my basement, but I used sharkbite connections that I want to replace one day when I get the courage and time to try soldering. But if the crimping tool is just as solid I would go with that instead as is seems like it requires less skill and less prone to error from inexperience.
So, is there a mil spec for the o-ring, is it made in China \ Mexico (oh, oh)?
I my favorite is compression second favorite is SharkBite both are great
Excellent thank you
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank You .......Thank You .......Thank You
I have a question. I see people using copper or pex for water connections in my home it is pvc so what does todays code state
Depends on your state. In some areas I believe CPVC is still perfectly acceptable for supply lines.
Two words. Shark Bite. The brand makes fittings for all fixtures.
Used throughout my home after full reno. Saved me thousands and thaught myself how to plumb easily for my own home.
I recommend the removal tool for them if you use them. It only costs about $10.00. I got mine at Lowe's. They seem to carry more Shark Bite fittings than Home Cheapo.
@@AStanton1966 oh for sure. Learned that the first few 90s I had redue
Plumbers are very expensive.
I'd love to get this tool, but it's crazy expensive.
Like $1200
According to my brother in law the plumber
@@mrtechpat yea. Very pricey for the diyer
$1200?? more like 4 grand for a decent one!
@@brendonmerritt7759 you may be right
I think I was thinking he said 2400
But that sounds right
I notice you left out flared connections.
What about pex. Ect
2 questions…..
1. Can this be used on Applicances to be precise refrigerator a/c lines. They are copper. Instead of soldering/ brazing?
2. If so is there solderless options available for fridge a/c lines?
Please anyone answer thanks everyone
I guess they are not loud to talk about shark bite. But that is heaven
Sharkbites also reduce the flow, something I will never install as a licensed plumber. They do have a place in emergency situations for sure
The reduction isn't significant, especially in PEX-A. I've never had an issue with a reduction if flow.
Always the pro Richard shows how you can easily burn wood by near by copper pipes, so stay away from that... that is unless you're smart enough to grab a relatively in expensive fire/heat resistant cloth that's also sold in the plumbing section that's specifically made to protect the wood from flame
Even a wet rag will do, water has a high specific heat.
Lucky they have Kevin he has a tool belt with a tape measure
Great video! I learned a lot!!!!
Copper cost so much there's no reason to go back to it unless the job site is already all copper. Just go PEX. My dad was a plumber for almost 50 years and he championed PEX in the end as the best thing possible.
PEX is rated for behind walls. I've used it behind shower walls and no problem so far after 12 years. I left a little slack between connections. I really liked using it to run water about 150 feet out of the garage into the back of the back yard so I had a water source for plants, etc. The pex is cheap and actually kind of fun to plug and play. I blow out the outside lines but if some water does get in there and split a section it's simple and cheap to repair.
I also used the sharkbite fitting enables steel brained hoses to connect a new water heater. One thing that is nice about how you can spin the pipe in the fitting is if there was a leak in the threaded fitting to the top of the WH after it's all connected, just tighten that fitting. Couldn't do that with soldered connection
Peace of mind knowing that properly soldered copper will last at least 60+ years. That's a good reason. Can't say the same for PEX. Not yet at least.
@@robertf6344 there are health risks associated with pex. Not true for copper though.
@@kalijasin Two kinds of plastic pipe. PEX and CPCV. Use CPVC for in home use where the water may be consumed. PEX strictly for outdoor or I figured the shower is OK as I'm not going to be drinking from the shower nozzle.
Everything is PEX now
In Europe compression fitting are very common.
A Classic Plumbmers Lament !
When fitting pipes, don't forget about the make-up addition
Shark bites are expensive but allow a homeowner to do a quick job. Solder not going anywhere cause it’s still so cheap compared to anything else when using copper. Now if you go pex.. crimp it up
I haven't seen copper install in new construction for at least 10 years now. It's all PEX.
@@Off-Grid it’s so much cheaper then copper and faster to work with
Wow, pressfittings arrived in the US ... the 90s are calling ...
Nothing is perfect. I think people in the trades just get comfortable with one method and that’s it for them. Not everyone but I’m sure when plumbers started gluing pvc the generation before them said it was crap and would never catch on.
Ferrell is called an olive in England.
O-rings are made of rubber, won't rubber eventually crack after so many decades of use? I prefer metal, but I am not a plumber.
"No home owner is going to do this." Incorrect, I'm doing it now. Vevor ProPress $580, 3 jaws (1/2,3/4,1), HD and Lowes sells the fittings... WAY cheaper than a plumber to complete even a basic job.
I use a length of garden hose and a bit of gaffa tape.
Actually, a used press tool is as expensive 2 plumber jobs in some parts of the country.
I'd have to agree with Richard they have there place.
From old tape recorders, history, with "O" rings, they deteriorated over the years and fell apart. We don't learn from history so we get to repeat it.
I don't trust anything that has O ring and can't be either fixed periodically, or it isn't designed to be in temporarily used object and after use it is trashed.
That is little bit same thing with piping, you need to have easy access to all of them. Be a secret door or hatch, or easily removable cover.
These are not your fathers O rings. Technology has been thoroughly tested it does not fail. Richard showed a perfect example where the pipe failed before the fitting did. If that’s not proof enough what is.
@@wm5723 I don't talk about your father O rings, but latest and greatest where even single O ring can cost thousands of dollars because highest possible design.
Tight tight tight
"sadless connection" lol
Shark bites is the way to go!
Been using them for a long time with no issues. Great to use when you can't get the water to shut off completely
@@George-mf5hq That's so true 👍
I agree
I will never believe a rubber o ring has the same longevity as a soldered connection. Also I've seen too many shark bites fail to trust them for any thing that is permanent, they are handy for things that get taken apart occasionally.
I have yet to see one fail
See if you can answer this how much heat transfer does using metal clips to hold the pipe lose,does it go in your calculations.O I’m just a plumber wrong answer
Sharkbites are expensive but try a plumber and you will quickly realize how cheap a shark bite really is. Any repair on a leaky pipe will run you at a minimum of $150 to $200!
I had a shower control replaced 12 years ago by a plumber for over $200 - with two leaking solder joints. (I fixed them). This week, I replaced it for $175 ($99 for shower control and $75 for sharkbite parts). The plumber would have been at least $250.
Plumbers are crazy expensive
Only a fool would say an o-ring joint is not water right. They are. Google how o-rings work, how they deform even more and seal even when the pressure is increased. But..
But the o-ring is never going to last as long as a soldered connection.
I was a huge proponent of “sharkbite” (or pushfit as we call it in 🇬🇧) but I have since moved back to solder. I only solder now.
So it’s not about “leaking”, for me it’s about longevity.
The first one I installed was 15yrs ago and still going strong.
You didn't talk about glueing copper pipe .it.s new.
I feel so bad for all the new homeowners buying old homes in 50 years. Sorry, pex and copper pro press will never last as long as soldered pipe..
Shark bite is trash
There’s no problems with pro press lmao
There's no guarantee the copper will last 50 years either...
@@oambrosia agreed. I've seen copper in "new" homes (30years) leak due to scouring and corrosion with in (not at a joint). Was it cheap crap copper or improperly installed copper flux. Who knows.
Solder joints leaks at around 20-30yrs.
Good Stuff ! Get Back To Work
🍺🤔
Shark bite are for emergencies and when you in a pinch.
Come on guys, Europe has moved on from solder less that you're reporting on ages ago, except in legacy systems.
We've moved on to plastic pipe and plastic fittings some time ago with "John Guest speedfit"
We're slow to adapt....lol! Most people use sharkbite in the states now though.
Call me old fashioned if you want. I'm sticking with solder joints. It's much more economical and doesn't require a lot of specialized tools. By using conventional methods those savings can be passed on to the consumer.
O ring is the failure mode. It will happen eventually. Sweated fittings is far superior.
Sodder soddering. Sole-dering.
You put pants on male fittings and dresses on female fittings🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Flanged, compression fittings are, in these days, way less reliable and repeatable than shark bites. I would say even professionally (outside of HVAC where pipes carry very hot or cold liquid and gas) shark bites have more use than compression.
Id like to see that rubber not leak after 30 years. Bunch of cheap, lazy production crews trying to bang out a home a week cutting corners with the fast and lazy method.
They don’t work lol
Learn how to solder, it’s not that hard….
Pro-press are literally shark bites but you need an expensive tool. Guys who can't solder use it but still want to be considered "professional."