WEN 56380i unboxing, my personal OCD break-in procedure, and general review.
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2021
- WEN 56380i
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Lucas 30w break in oil
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WEN magnetic dipstick
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I purchased this generator for our travel trailer with my own money, as well as all the accessories seen in the video. I have received no compensation for my content (and won't) unless the Amazon Affiliate links are successful.
This video is going to be my first attempt at generating income with my channel via Amazon Affiliate links. This time around it's mostly being done as a test to figure out how other content makers are choosing to monetize their channels.
My review was completely honest, showing both positives and negatives, and I hope this comes through in the video. In fact, at the time I made this video I wasn't anticipating adding affiliate links, nor was I even a part of that program. But I figured what the heck, let's try it and see what happens - which is sort of my unofficial motto if I'm being honest with myself. 
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I really appreciate your attention to detail in this video. Keep up the great work!
Noel. Thanks so much for putting this together. I just set mine up and watching your video along with the process was a great help. Appreciate it big time!
I'm so glad you found it useful. When I make things like this I know the audience will be small, but if it helps just one person it was worth it. Thanks for saying so!
Wen is a great brand. They are a US company that has been around since the 60's. They may use Chinese sourced parts in some products, but they do their due diligence and design most of their products in-house. No different than Apple or whatever other company that sources labor and parts from other countries but designs it in-house. I find it odd that so many people think Wen itself is a Chinese company. I guess because they make affordable products and the name sounds Chinese? Funny thing is, most of the competing "premium" brand products use the same sourcing tactics. Champion for example which is kind of a premium generator brand-name actually makes almost identical generators to some of Wen's models. Same engines and all. but you pay a premium for them for some reason. These Wen generators are a fantastic deal.
@@Gubers To be fair, the name does sound Asian. There's a character in Sir Terry Pratchett's Discworld series of books named Wen the Eternally Surprised, who is from the equivalent of Asia on the Discworld map.
@@NoelBarlau I have read that entire series! Great books! Wen is indeed a Chinese surname meaning "warm". Google FTW haha.
I just unboxed a 2021 Predator 3500, it’s very different from the previous (2020) models. Several of the internal components are identical to your Wen Model: the engine, cam cover, air box, vapor canister, fuel drain tubes, inverter, oil dipstick & oil drain tube ALL MATCH EXACTLY! The 2021 Wen and HF Predator 3500 are made in the same factory..
Great video, very informative! I'm with you on the OCD break in procedure. As a machinist it's just hard for me to just gas and go when it comes to new engines. I can't stop thinking about what those metal particles are doing in there during break in! My thoughts are oil is cheap insurance for peace of mind for hopefully long, peak performance out of the engine!
Very good video, and pretty instructive! 👌
I've already found a gas station with non ethanol gas and you can bet that's what I'm going to be putting in mine too and I have some ethanol shield fuel stabilizer I'll still put in there and if I haven't read my gas for 10 months to a year then I'll change it and put it in my car and refuel up my 20 gal saved up for generator I'm going to use the rack on the back of my RV and put my fuel tank and Generator and keep them covered up and lock down with a cable covered up with a tarp keep people from seeing I have it and then keeping it protected from the Sun. I'm proud to have this generator for backup I'm glad I watched this video I'm going to do the same thing let it run for a few hours and then change the oil after break and I'm even going to put a little slick 50 in there after the break-in. I do believe in that PTFE just makes the engine run forever!
thanks alot that was helpful for me ...love you man 🌹🌹
Thank you for the video!
I used a water bottle of 16.8 oz. Filled to top. Worked perfect to mid threads.
I just picked this off Amazon for $599.
I have the predator 3500 already and i think this WEN seems better right out the box.
The predator is over $900 now and never on sale anymore.
You're right on the money about those new fad gas can nozzles......THEY SUCK!!!!! Like you, I spill more gas using those, than the old style. Thanks for the informative video! My 3800 watt Wen arrives in two days, and I can't wait!!!
Sorry I'm new to this. But thankyou for making this video! Do you recommend using break in oil? I read that somebody used regular synthetic 5w30 for a few hours then put synthetic back into it. Is that okay?
The way I like to think about it goes like this: As soon as you start using synthetic oil, engine wear essentially ceases. But brand new engines actually need to do some wearing-in of their piston rings, otherwise they won't break in properly, and could cause engine oil consumption issues later. So I'd use conventional oil for the first few hours at least, using varying loads and engine RPM, and then switch to synthetic after that. Break in oil contains a huge dose of zinc, which supposedly helps the break in procedure. I'm not sure it matters that much to be honest, especially on these tiny engines which have pretty loose tolerances all things considered. If you don't want to drop the extra money on break in oil, just use conventional (non-synthetic) oil for the first few hours up to 50 hours or so. It's really your call as to when to change over to full synthetic. When are rings broken in? How many hours does it take? Nobody can say, since it'll be different on each engine. Checking the used oil for color and particulate matter is a good way to make a guess, though. From my experiences here I'd say that changing the oil very frequently during those first few hours on a non-filtered engine will be much more important for longevity than just throwing break in oil into it and running it for 10 hours before changing it for the first time.
I think the break in is using non synthetic oil at fist and changing the oil every 45min until no more metal shavings are seen. Then it can be used normally after this.
As far as I know if you parallel the 2 it will limit your bigger one to only the same specs as the Honda.
So you'll essentially have 2 Honda worth of power together but I'm sure the wen will handle harder surge being in the mix but I've never tried I only paralleled my 2 identical a-ipower 2700 dual fuels lol
After the break in oil changes, can you run it with the break in oil? Or synthetic??
I'm currently still running it on break in oil, but that'll be changed to conventional non-synthetic oil at 10 hours. At 50 hours I'm going to switch to synthetic. My theory is that at whatever point you switch over to synthetic, the engine isn't going to break in any more than it already has. So I figure 50 hours is a good target. But I'm sure someone will show up to tell me I'm completely wrong, as there are as many opinions as there are folks interested in this topic.
This is the second time I’ve watched; will watch again as I’m following steps. I have to tell you, my lawn guy just took it out of the box for me and set it on the back patio.. i’m real nervous about whether I bit off more than I can chew. I have multiple sclerosis and will be attempting single-handedly. I’m sure I can do it it’s just that I’ve never worked on any type of engine before. Also I wanted to ask if you could point me in the direction of a good 20-30’ TT-30P cord? I know it’s a lot to ask because you probably don’t know off-hand. So thank you kindly for ur consideration in advance. Of note, I don’t have a travel trailer. Its for my home during outages. Ideally, the TT-30P cord can power to two refrigerators, 75” TV, modem, routers an AVR and lights. Kudos on the thorough job you did here. I’ve watched a ton of reviews over the years, this one ranks at the tippedy top in many ways i.e, experience, practical instruction and great communicator. Very easy to listen to. Subscribed
Thanks for the compliments. It makes me want to keep on sharing things I think might be helpful to others, even if I'm an infrequent and extremely random video poster. I just went to Amazon and typed in TT-30P extension cord and a bunch of results came up. Just pick one with a bunch of good reviews that don't seem like they're paid advertisements. If you need a specific length or connector on the female end, keep in mind you can always make your own extension cord by purchasing the cord and ends separately. All the best in your generator adventure!
Hi, what is the Sta-Bil that you added to the gas? Is it the 360 Protection Ethanol Treatment and Stabilizer? Do you add Sta-Bil every time you refuel the gas or only the first time running the generator? And about the Lucas break-in oil, after the engine is broken in, do you still use this oil or do you change to a different oil? If change to a different oil, what brand and type of oil? And how many hours do you need to run to consider that the engine is broken-in? thank you.
Lots of great questions here. I only run non-ethanol gas whenever possible, so I just use the standard red Sta-Bil in that. I put it in every 5-gallon can of gas each time I fill them up so they're always ready to go. I've found non-ethanol gas with stabilizer will last over a year if stored properly in a well-sealed container. If you're going to be running the generator a lot and the fuel won't be stored long-term, then you can skip the stabilizer entirely. I consider break-in to be complete at 50 hours, but there's no hard number on that. After your own personal break-in period you can switch to full synthetic of whatever weight is recommended by the manufacturer. I look at it as if the wear stops as soon as you put in the synthetic oil, so you want a good long break-in period to ensure proper seating of the piston rings.
Can you add the link for the ngk spark plug?
Great video.
At 26:16, When you added the couple drops of oil into the spark plug tube, did you use the break-in oil?
I think I did but honestly I don't remember. I don't think it really matters for that small an amount. The important thing is that the rings aren't dry for the first run.
@@NoelBarlau Gotcha, thank you.
Great! video. Still waiting for my Wen to get here. For the 1st three oil changes, are you using the break in oil each time? at what point in running time and metal free results do you start using synthetic oil? Thanks
I used the break in oil all the way to 50 hours, then switched to full synthetic. I like to think of it as choosing the time you want your engine to stop wearing in, which for me I arbitrarily chose 50 hours. You can choose a higher hour if you wish, but I'd use conventional oil after the 50 hour oil change instead of break in oil.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Zongshen makes the 79cc engine in the Wen 56203i (2000 watt) which I should be getting tomorrow. Supposedly a Yamaha knockoff and has a cast iron bore.
The Wen looks identical to Champion!
Your engine is a 212 cc? I used a magnetic dip stick in my Champion 4500 (same enclosure) panel about the same and my dip stick had some scratch marks on the side of the tip. Did yours have scrape marks?
Can't say I remembered scratch marks, but it wouldn't surprise me. What would concern me is if it didn't have scratch marks before I inserted it and ran it in the generator, then did have scratch marks afterwards. Otherwise I wouldn't give it a second thought. Edit: Yes, I believe it is a 212cc.
@@NoelBarlau Yes scratch marks after running. Very light but there. I’m not using mine.
Tip! You need to get the gen out of the dirt/grass. The intake air vent is under the front bottom. Use either on plywood or concrete/asphalt.
Not to worry, it's now permanently mounted on the front of the travel trailer on a purpose-built rack. Good info, though.
This is good info! A lot of the time- almost always- we run these things outside in the elements. I'm surprised there's not more focus on the air intake/air intake filter regarding long term use.
Haha with break in it's what makes you feel comfortable. You thought yours was OCD.
Here's mine which is more in depth for iron sleeve Chinese engines:
1. Dino oil in 30 min eco mode low idle on no load. Drain
2. Dino oil 1 hour eco mode no load.
Drain.
3. Break in oil 10 hours. Varying load and changing from evo to non eco.
Drain
4. 5w30 full synthetic.
Mine says to change at 25 hours after break in change then 50 after that.
My reasoning for the first 2 changes is on my first one I did this and both the first drains looked like glitter in the oil. 3rd one was pretty clean. Then break in came out with only a little of very fine particles. I just don't want hours and loading with all that metal in there.
I have 2 a-ipower 2700(2200) that can pull 20 amps out of the 30 amp plug that I either use alone or in parallel for 5400(4400) that can pull whole 30 out of one plug or total of 40 across multiple plugs all the time.
Also can run on propane if needed
Sam's has a sale now for 479 each (~$500 after tax and free delivery) so for just over $1000 I can either parallel them for 4400 continuous at 40 amps or one at a time for smaller loads. At 25% load gets almost 11 hours on 1 gallon of gas. 50lb each so easier to lift and transport.
So in the end it's what works for you for break in and what you buy and oil to use. I used royal purple break in because it was available. Find something that makes sense and is comfortable for you.
You did say how much oil you put in the spark plug cylinder?
Nope, I just kinda gave it a squirt down the spark plug hole and then slowly pulled the starter rope a few times to coat the cylinder. There isn't an amount specified. I'd go with "A Squirt" to be technical about it...
During break-in you want a lot of cylinder pressure so they rings push out and wear and seat against the cylinder before the hone is worn away. If the hone goes away before the rings fully seat you will have compression, oil consumption and blow-by issues. It doesn't mean to abuse the motor but it does mean letting the engine breath dense air. Low throttle = air under vacuum = low cylinder pressure. On a generator I recommend a 1/2 to 2/3 load.
Mike, what exactly do you mean by the "hone" getting worn away? Is that the sharp edge on fresh rings?
@@petexii The hone is the fresh (rough) finish on the cylinder and while it wears away the rings seat or wear to seal. It's all about a proper engine break-in.
Where'd you get the hour meter. Great video I just bought one I'm waiting for it to arrive.
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@@NoelBarlau thanks
@@thomashorn9152 You're welcome.
I have a question on the double fuel line that comes out the side of the carb. What would cause my carb to dump its fuel out it through it and shut off the generator?
My best guess is a stuck needle valve or a sticky float. Take the bowl off the carb and make sure nothing's sticking. Probably varnish from old gas.
@Noel Barlau it's brand new out of the box, seems weird to me. I'm not to mechanically inclined. If I take the bowl off is there anything I should know that may break or fall out if that makes sense?
@@MrNatureman007 If it's brand new I recommend returning it. Don't mess with it or you'll void your warranty.
I`m concerned about the generator not starting when following the manufacturers instructions. It seems by letting air in the fuel and putting it on run for a minute, then start, it`s starting right away. is that correct? Have you had any trouble since this post? Seems that engine has the same problem with different generators. Not good if it doesn`t start and you spend all this time taking care of it.
It seems as if once the carb bowl is emptied out it takes some cranking to fill it back up. But if you shut it down by removing the spark instead of running the carb dry, it pops right off. I'll take the extra cranking over gumming up the carb. It has always started without a jump.
Are you still using breakin oil up to the 10hrs?
I used the break in oil to 10 hours then changed to full synthetic. It's still running fine, so I'm happy with my break in procedure.
I used a break in oil royal purple for 10 minutes but I didn't realize it was synthetic ....Ouch! Any suggestions?
@@carrchev87 Don't panic. Drain the synthetic and put in some break in oil. Run it hard for 10 hours or so, then put the synthetic back in. That'll break in the rings properly. After 10 hours of hard running drain and refill with the synthetic. No worries. Edit:if it's break in oil maybe they already formulated it with ring seating in mind. Just change it to normal synthetic after 10 hours and you should be golden.
Ok. Thank you.
Get rid of the magnetic oil cap. The magnet has been known to break free and disappear somewhere in the engine. They simply don't have enough benefit to Warrant using them anyway.
It’s not a problem. It will sink straight to the bottom and won’t interact with any moving parts.
@@pinkiepie1656 possibly, but in most cases it does cause problems to the motor.