Repairing Your Honda Blower Motor Transistor
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Honda Blower Motor Transistor Repair Covers U.S. and Canadian models of Honda Civic (2001 - 2010) and Honda CR-V (2002 - 2009). Honda Civic, Accord, Odyssey & similar model car circuitry (2004- 2010)
Video: Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting
• Honda Civic Blower Mot...
Honda 2004 - 2010 Blower Motor Wiring.pdf
drive.google.com/open?id=1v6H...
2SK2313 N CHANNEL E-MOSFE
www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-2SK2313...
TABLE 1 BLOWER TRANSISTOR TEST
drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3...
EYP-2BN109 Thermal Cutoff
www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Panaso...
Don’t want to repair it yourself, but want the whole part, search the inventory below:
Parts Geek - Discount Auto Parts
www.partsgeek.com
LKQ Corporation - Aftermarket and Recycled Parts
www.lkqcorp.com/en-us/Inventor...
EXTRA Must Watch Informational Video ???
assets.plandemicseries.com/pl... 
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I've yet to find a better troubleshoot, diagnose and repair video of this transistor to date... Nothing short of excellent
You win the blower motor transistor best youtube award. The comment that checking for open across pins 1 and 2 was the key to my fix. I i just bought a new transistor, but the explanation of the circuit along with the repair itself was top tier!
Freezing my ass of is much easier
Thanks, this helped me verify that it was a bad TCO!
You're welcome glad it helped.
You are awesome man, I have watched a lot of tutorials but yours it's by far the best one, you even put your resources in Google drive, thanks for your service man ❤
Dude this is amazingly helpful. I was able to troubleshoot the issue in my car down to that thermal cutoff fuse, saving me a chunk of cash ✌️😎
Thorough, complete, accurate, parts list. This is the real deal. Awesome. Thanks!
For non US viewer and ppl who are not using the ebay link.
Make sure you get the 2A version of the fuse and the casing is not metal.
I don't know what the proper name for this is but all the 10A fuse seem to have a conductive metal case, and 2A one with a ceramic non-conductive case.
I bought a 10A 115 C thermal cutoff with a shinny metal casing, turns out the casing is shorted one side of the lead, this shorts 1 and 4 because the casing of the fuse is connected to the hold-down clip which attaches to the heatsink and to PIN 4.
I found out after plugging in the module in the car and the blower motor won't turn off, hopefully it hasn't have enough time to damage things.
Also great videos, this video give me more reasons to continue to keep my Honda.
thank you this is Very informative So dont use a metal conductive thermal cutoff. use a Ceramic one . im about to do this instead of buying a 110$ one from autozone.
Correct, short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing
Superb educational video, thanks..
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
That's awesome. I don't have this vehicle, but I was curious how it worked.
Thanks sir
SIMPLY AWESOME-😄😃
Thank you for the video. Good job. Does the blower control panel vary the voltage level to the gate or is it a set voltage level and pulsed at specific duty cycle percentages?
The voltage is varied at the gate 0 - 9.5 Vdc, they did not use pulse width modulation.
@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you Sir. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week.
Very helpful video. Thanks. Just want to make sure though. It looks like 1 kohns 1/2watt, 5 percent tollerance resistor.
Correct, the 1K @ 1/2W resistor in series with the control line coming from the ECU, Protects ECU from a short to ground at the gate of the E-MOSFET transistor. The associated 10k resistor is a pulldown resistor, which prevents the motor from continuing to run due to gate charge if the thermal fuse blows or a break in the control.
Side note that one 1K resistor provides another function; however, less relevant in this case; when your E-MOSFET first switches on, you’ll have a current charging the E-MOSFET’s gate-source capacitance. So for a small fraction of a second, there can be a lot of current flowing. To make sure this short burst of current isn’t too high for whatever you’ve connected to, you need to add a resistor in series. 1K is the general rule. Any higher than that could affect your on-off switching, especially at higher frequencies.
So interesting-- I just ordered a transistor / AC blower resistor for my Subaru Tribeca and it cost me $90 and that was on sale from the dealership (could not find on Amazon). My question is whether a $30 Subaru Outlook ac resistor would of worked (even if I would have to change a wiring harness) or more generally, why different cars require different resistors???
The Subaru Tribeca has a transistor module for the front AC blower and a resistor module for the rear AC blower. Most newer model automobiles after 2008 incorporate the transistor module controller as opposed to the old discrete resistor modules. Transistor control is more efficient, more compact, and controls fan motor current directly at the motor. The discrete resistive modules required routing the total distribution current directly through both the fan switch and motor. Not feasible to exchange the resistor module with the transistor module or vice versa.
The transistor modules are electronically the same incorporating an E-MOSFET transistor allowing high current to flow through the fan motor under the digital control of a low power microcontroller in the control panel. The main differences being the shape and size of the module casing to accommodate the air duct of the particular automobile. The modules being your main concern making sure it fits. LINK: drive.google.com/file/d/1ZnqBRMcrLbGnjdrmXsdtvLgWEkysjF4H/view?usp=sharing
Thanks for the video. Do you know if the same concept applies to all of the resistors that came in Honda vehicles. Mine is from a Honda Ridgeline 06 but the connector pins are arranged differently. Mine works but if you wiggle the harness right at the resistor will stop working and shuts off fan.Mine is a Denso 077800-0910. thanks
They're still called blower resistors; however, most Honda vehicles after 2003 utilize transistor-based modules. They sometimes take different sizes and shapes, but they're normally all 4-pin modules that work the same way. Honda 2006 Ridgeline RT, RTL, and RTS all have 4-pin transistor-based modules with slightly different pin arrangements. All connectors and connections are subject to oxidation and moisture. Remove the connector from the module and spray the module pins and connector pins with some contact cleaner; that may solve the wiggle problem.
Hello again. Just curious where you got the data sheet for the Honda blower power transistor. Or, is this something you created? I'm looking for something like this for a Subaru power transistor.
Taken from the dealer’s technical documentation. Analyzing, and deconstructing their hardware to reveal its designs and architecture. fundamentally, reverse engineering and documenting the resultant component analysis.
Subaru, What year and model? Any thing prior to 2007 maybe a resistor unit.
Thanks for your good job, can you help me where I can find this components?
See the description section below the video, and click “SHOW MORE,” Listed are links to the individual parts and the transistor blower module.
Not sure if it’s worth the $10 in parts and install of the parts, or just to buy one for $20 online
Where can i find the part list for my blower motor transistor for my honda hrv 2016 i do have same problem. Thanks,any info i can get.
The The electronics of the blower motor transistor are the same in most cases. The size and shape are the only real difference that makes it compatible with the ductwork of any particular automobile. However, some newer models may still use the old resistor network. The 2016 Honda HR-V LX uses the resistor network, vs. the 2016 Honda HR-V EX using a transistor module and appears to be the same electrically as in my video with a different pin number arrangement. Denso Japan OEM produced the modules for Honda for about $3 - $5 (US) each. They are consumable items; there’s no part list; you just have to open it up and research it out. If you replace your cabin air filter as recommended, you should get 200,000 miles out of that transistor and a resistor unit a bit less. LINK: drive.google.com/file/d/1YGwGCa1Xb7krX6Fjd-w5CLhWahBBXgs2/view?usp=sharing
Does it also turn on the ac compressor when the blower tirns on ? Because ac compressor also dont turn on
the a/c compressor will not engage If the Heater Control Panel senses the blower fan isn't turning (i.e.blower motor transistor is not switched on). However, this does not rule out any blown fuse or breaker issues. Check the blower motor wiring schematic on page 2 in the comment section above. That Heater Control Panel controls most of the operations of the HVAC system. The feedback signal from the transistor is at pin A8 of the Heater Control Panel (electronic module).
Awesome video! questions, comes from a girl so please patience here. 15.20 you removed thermal cut off that you mentioned at the beginning of the video fails a lot on these units, but you are not replacing it in this video, if it fails you replace that part or does it cause the "heat sink" to break (open), i noticed you replaced that one and transistor. thank you
Follow the video sequence between 14:35 - 15:59. I'm removing the screw that holds the transistor and metal clip securing the thermal cutoff to the heat-sink. Also, follow the sequence between 18:25 - 18:35 as I install the new thermal cutoff. The video didn't show the screw and metal clip's reinstall holding the thermal cutoff. However, you can see the screw and black metal clip at the top of the screen (18:27) next to the old thermal cutoff. The heat sink wasn't in danger of breaking. The transistor didn't need a replacement; however, I completed a general overhaul since the unit was already open.
What are the chances the Heatsink shorts out between the thermal piece. since it shares the 12v resistance. on the case.
Short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the Transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing
my battery ran almost dead in this blizzard and when I went to start it, the interior fan suddenly went to high and is stuck there no matter what position the fan switch is in
could this transistor have failed this way?
thanks
That’s not a common failure with the transistor modules: however, it’s possible.
The older resistor network modules normally fail with the blower operating only in the high position or stuck in some lower position. You should verify which module you have, a transistor or resistor. What year, make, and model?
@@eetech_fix2393 it's a 2005 4 door, 4-cyl 5-speed honda accord
it's stuck full on whenever the ignition is on
thanks for and advice you can give 👍
@@shiddy. Accord 2005s have transistor modules. Check out the links below-general wiring from the control unit to the transistor module. There's a link to the transistor module test. With an ohm meter check between pins 2 and 4. If reading short (zero ohms) that's your problem.
drive.google.com/file/d/1rsuh4t3EfnG7eeJ8Xcl8_A5eduR3qjCt/view?usp=sharing
ruclips.net/user/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbjJROEZuRldtdFZ5bnZjOUJCQ0JfcGVMaHA2Z3xBQ3Jtc0trWXlqTzZCNkRzRXFiX3gyVHF6Z04yRENMZVVtMUFQQWtFcWNVbmE1SnBuUUNXN0VUeVo3c2djbjhSTEt0WjJ3S3E1MGxaX1FWOUdOb3V6RUUwR29vcloxLTBuOWlQbTVHYjNuck81ZnBsb2NGNXdxYw&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharing&v=9teJFYfhUdk
Hi where can I buy this transistor parts
Click the "SHOW MORE" under the description section above for parts info. Also, eBay is a good source.
@@eetech_fix2393 👍