Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting
Covers U.S. and Canadian models of the Honda Civic (2001 - 2005) and Honda CR-V (2002 - 2005). Honda Civic & Accord similar circuitry (2005 - 2009).
Honda Blower Motor and Transistor Documentation Download Links:
Honda Blower Motor DTC Codes
drive.google.c...
Honda Blower Motor Wiring & Components:
drive.google.c...
TABLE 1 BLOWER TRANSISTOR TEST
drive.google.c...
Video: How to troubleshoot and repair your Blower Transistor Module
• Repairing Your Honda B...
2SK2313 N CHANNEL E-MOSFE
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EYP-2BN109 Thermal Cutoff
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Don’t want to repair it yourself, but want the whole part, search the inventory below:
Parts Geek - Discount Auto Parts
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LKQ Corporation - Aftermarket and Recycled Parts
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EXTRA Must Watch Informational Video ???
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This was by far the best walkthrough I have found. I ordered a new fan motor and transistors before watching this. I wish I had watched this first. I'm confident, it is the transistors. I installed the new fan motor, nothing but I bet if I run the jumpers and test the transistor I will find the problem and could of saved $40.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I had the same problem with my wife's car. By following your video, I was able to verify the issue and fix it myself; saving me hundreds of dollars.
Glad to be of assistance.
Sir... I wanted to take a moment of my busy schedule to Thank you for your tutorial. I did the diagnostic and I changed my blower motor resistor and now I have a working ac / fan. Summer might over here in Los Angeles but with the rainy weather, I'll be using my defroster regularly. Thanks again 👍🙏
If you have a long screwdriver and you hang the glove box. You can get a little access and remove the screws easily.
Excellent video. It couldn't be explained better.
I just want to say thank you. You are very thorough. I wish I had you as my teacher when I was younger.
A very informative and useful video. The plandemic video, not so much. Have a great day.
Very good video. Thank you very much. This is what I needed to understand the operations. Bless you and your family.
This was pretty good. I will have to check the resistor/transistor module since the new heat controller did not correct the problem with the variable speed.
Some previous owner, or associate, had bypassed the fan wiring to install a bulky on/off switch they placed in the glove box with no variable speed option. They cut the power blue wire, taped up the separated end and hooked the live wire to the switch then anchored it to a ground bolt at the firewall.
I tried reconnecting the wire and checked the actual variable speed knob, but nothing worked, so I'm thinking it's the resistor module as noted in this video.
Thank you so much for this video.
The video is very informative. You explained everything so thoroughly that even someone like myself who has never dealt with this issue before understands.
Thanks very much for the video. Gotta wonder why they didn't PWM the MOSFET from the microcontroller instead of using it in a linear mode, would have been a lot less heat to add a catch diode and vary the duty cycle.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Best tutorial hands down.
Thanks for the excellent instruction. Positive experience.
That may have been the most complete and useful video I've ever watched, thank you!
You are brilliant, thank you for good clarification.
Thank you this video was very helpful 😅
Fantastic tutorial.Just subscribed May I ask? Do you use electron or conventional theory or both when you diagnose. Just wondering if one is easier to understand electronics? CHEERS
I use both. Technically, current flows from negative to positive in conductors. It doesn’t matter which convention you use if you’re consistent. Since electrons and protons have an equal but opposite charge, an electron flowing in one direction is equal to a proton flowing in the opposite direction. You can still use conventional current flow even though it’s not technically correct and come up with the right answer.
Most formulas used in electronics, such as Ohm’s Law, pretend that current flows from positive to negative. And if you think about it, most schematics depict a current flow from the positive side of a battery through conductors and loads to the ground, the negative side of the battery.
In the end, it doesn’t matter. I use both, whichever makes the circuit analysis easier. Again, remember that most formulas and books represent conventional current flow. For most bench-type troubleshooting, the direction of current flows is unimportant; the amount of current flows is.
Real life hero!
Good job
I have a 2010 Honda Civic and the blower stopped working but randomy will work. Under dash fuse is good, under hood fuse good, blower relay good, and I have no power to blower motor connector or transistor. If I jump the relay between 30 and 87, the blower will turn on and can be controlled via dash climate control. I tested the fuse box relay plug and have power on 2 plugs, and ground on one. The top left (85 or 86) doesnt have ground. Any ideas? Thanks
It appears you’re not getting any voltage out of relay plug 87. Referencing the under-hood blower motor relay, remove the relay from the socket and turn the ignition key to the accessory position. With a multimeter, measure the voltage at socket position 86, which should read 12 V. Then, measure the voltage at position 30, which should also read 12v. Turn the key off and measure socket position 85 with an ohmmeter to any good ground; it should read nearly zero ohms.
The relay plugs 85 and 86 are the ends of the relay coil. Relay plug 30 is the 12v input to the switch contact, and plug 87 supplies 12v to the blower motor once the switch contact closes.
@eetech_fix2393 Thank you. Sounds like my next step.
Thanks a lot for posting this video! Thanks to you I was able to find that I had a blown thermal fuse. However, I was not able to find a 2A 115C fuse but only a 10A one in my local electronics stores (I'm in a bit of a hurry as we are in a heatwave). However, after replacing it it is now stuck on full. Is this due to the fuse or is there something else wrong like my control unit?
Which model vehicle? May still have an issue with your transistor module. The control modules are low-percentage failure items; however, still a possibility.
@@eetech_fix2393 2001 sedan with a 1.6L D series engine. I figured I had burned the transistor, which was true, since after replacing it it was working normally. However after about a minute, it was once again stuck on full. My opinion is, something is causing more current to pass through the circuit, burning the transistor, unless the proper fuse is there to sacrifice itself. This answer is rather well timed since I will be getting my hands on the proper fuse and a new transistor tomorrow :)
Anyways, since I got some spares as well I have a few chances to test what is wrong. The filters where a bit dirty but definitely not clogged. If you have any suggestions on where to look you'd be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
During the replacement of parts, sometimes there is an issue in the disassembly and reassembly process. With the replacement of the thermal fuse, always ensure none of the leads nor any metal parts connected to the leads touch the heat sink. Only the non-metallic parts of the thermal fuse should ever come in contact with the heat sink. You must remember that the heat sink, due to its direct connection to the drain of the transistor, has a 12 V potential if it comes in contact with any of the leads of the thermal switch or any other conductive part of the module you have a short to ground and the possibility of the fan runs all the time.
After you replace the fuse and transistor and get the module reassembled, run the following test to ensure everything is connected correctly and no other issues exist.
TABLE 1 TABLE 1 BLOWER TRANSISTOR TEST
drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view
Great video on the resistor testing. Mine is a UK 2.2 2006 gen 8.
My resistor looks slightly different. If I test mine with the tab at the top assuming same pin numbers, my no 2 + 4 test is a fail.
If I turn it upside down and assume the pins are numbered that way everything checks out correctly as far as I can tell.
Where could I get a sechmatic like yours or find out?
Thanks
The case dimensions maybe slightly different; however, the electrical receptacle/plug pinouts, and wiring are most common to the 2006 Civic, Accord, and Odyssey. During that period, DENSO, (Japan company) was the source of those transistor units. A blown thermal fuse is most common, open reading between pins 1 & 2. The MOSFET transistor rarely fails.See the following link for pinouts and test points: drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view?usp=sharing
You are very good with this. i have a 2006 civic type r fn2 . the fan is full blast when ignition is switched to on . it wont change speed or switch off via controller. the only way it shuts off is if i remove either the fuse or the resistor/transister thingy
What levels of voltage does the control head deliver to the power transistor when the transistor thermal protection was burned open? Reason I ask is so I know what a good controller will deliver at various speed selection when there is no voltage drop due to blown transistor thermal protection device. So I can be confident the controller is working fine. Thank you.
Should vary between 0 - 12 Vdc with speed selection
@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you Sir. I appreciate your videos.
Nice
ok.. my fan is working. How do I know if the problem is the power transistor or actual control knob ?
Reference the blower motor speed control schematic in the description section below. If the fan motor is working, try varying the speed of the motor with the speed control knob. If you cannot vary the fan speed, remove the wire harness plug from the transistor module and measure the voltage at pin #1 (referenced to ground) at the front of the wire harness plug. The voltage should vary between 2 and 11 volts as you turn the control knob. You likely have a bad control module if you cannot vary the voltage. The speed control knob is an integral part of the control module. If you can vary the voltage, you most likely have a bad transistor module shorted source to drain. I’m assuming you have a transistor module. Resistor modules are a different story; failing fan speed stuck high.
@@eetech_fix2393I actually have a 2003 Civic Sir. The schematic for the power transistor module is actually different. The ground is pin 3 and the gate control is pin 4 according to the service manual. The blower works fine when the module is bypassed. I tested the power transistor on the bench and the thermal cut off seems open. Replaced the load with a low current buzzer and tested pe service manual. Buzzer did not sound.. Connected the MOSFET (no identification marks) to a transistor tester and it shows up strangely as a N-chan JFET. I did not try to bypass the thermal fuse yet to see if the transistor works.
@@eetech_fix2393 your video was very well in the analysis.
@@eetech_fix2393 Where did you get a hold of that schematic ?
@@rcarioca check your local library they may have similar services available, Links: drive.google.com/file/d/1FaI0Cdl-TNQE2iDT3r0IbBjxO9Ul6tt6/view?usp=share_link
www.ebsco.com/products/research-databases/auto-repair-source
Hi. Ive just subscribed.
Very informative and useful, ive learnt quite a tad from this....
I have a problem with my 2006 2.2cdti UK RH Model..... the fuse in question (#36 10a) operates my blowers and also the electric wing mirrors. It keeps blowing.... i came across the problem the other day... jumped in car, started it up and decided to switch on blowers.....not working.... located fuse #36 replaced with new, and switched engine on, then blowers.... the fuse blew again 2-3 seconds later... tried a few more times and still blowing in a cple seconds.
Any ideas anyone please?
Fuse numbers may vary by year, model, and country. However, circuit groupings are similar. the blower motor relay is supplied power via a 10A fuse under the dash, enabling the blower motor relay (under the hood) to supply power from a 40A fuse to the blower motor. Since that is a 10A fuse, it’s most commonly related to low-power items like power mirrors and relays that support larger items. If the blower motor relay and the power mirrors are the only circuits on that 10A fuse, pull out the blower motor relay (under the hood fuse box), and if that 10A fuse still blows, you know it’s in the power mirror circuit there’s the problem, possibly shorted wire. Verify, Isolate, Detect, and Correct are the four basic steps.
Under Dash FUSE #14 (10A) - compressor clutch relay, condenser fan relay, blower motor relay, power mirrors, radiator fan relay, recycle control motor, rear defogger relay. Under Hood Fuse #12 (40A) - Blower Motor
Thank you so mich for your reply..
Ive sorted out the problem now ( i shouldve updated this thread...apologies).
I learnt a big lesseon in not taking things for granted and check EVERYTHING MYSELF... i had the car given to me and the other side ( nearside RHD) electric mirror NEVER worked and the previous owner informed me that it had been damaged in an accident so it was DISCONNECTED..... i didnt bother checkin it, only the driverside ( offside RHD) electric mirror, blower, blower resistor, rear defrost etc...still no joy... was about to take it to autoelectrician but decided to give it another go.... i ran out of fuses so ordered some cheapies off a big online store..... placed new fuse in and the nearside mirror started smoking and caught fire.... quickly knocked ignition off, and pulled fuse.....
Lesson 1..
dont buy cheap generic fuses turns out the cheap fuses were not 10 amp but closer to 20a
Lesson 2.... dont neccessarily take other peoples word for jobs they said they've carried out..
Was pure chance i found it, disconnected mirror.....its still useable as i caught it in time but have to adjust by hand...it'll do til i can get it off and replace it..
So i just unplugged mirror now and everything else, blowers, de-misters, offside mirror etx work fine.
Thanks once again for taking an interest and replying.
Keep up the good work buddy. 👍👍👍
Hello! Pins 1 and 2 is measuring 11.04-.09 ohms. Is this good or bad?. The other pins are reading very close to yours except 1 and 2. Thanks.
I assume from what you wrote; you’re referring to a meter reading between 11.04K ohm and 11.09K ohm. That’s a correct indication given resistance tolerances around + or -5% (+/- 550 ohms).
@@eetech_fix2393 ok, Thanks!
If you accidentally hook those two wires up backwards, what would break?
You must specify the point in the video timeline where you refer to these two wires. Right-click that point on the timeline, select ”Copy video URL,” and paste that link into your reply.
@@eetech_fix2393 my fan came unplugged, I was using jumpers and electrical tape and my lady plugged it back in. She plugged them in backwards and it started to smoke from the transistor. I got a new fan installed Tomorrow, I’m going to check my fuses. I was just wondering if you might’ve came across this before
@@eetech_fix2393 my fan I plug it in backwards and the transistor started to smoke I got a new fan plugged it in correctly did not work. Should I replace the transistor next or did I just fuck the whole system? By plugging in the fan backwards.
@@Toldyousonoob If you have smoke from the Transistor at minimum, run the Transistor Test drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view to verify its condition. Also, check your fuses, especially the 40A Blower Motor fuse under the hood. If you disconnected quickly, the transistor may have survived. The fuses are there and will protect you from blowing the whole system.
@@eetech_fix2393 when I get off I will try it
You speak too Softly