Don't do this. It can cause a melt down of the plastic. The resistor is not the answer. He is basically bypassing a safety feature. The terminal resistor is what needs replaced and it's on the other side of the board.
Good job, resistor in UK honda civic mk7 is a pain to access and remove as it's buried behind the ECU unit amongst lots of cables so long Philips needed and hardly any slack on the wiring cable once removed, passenger kick panel, glove box, ECU unit all had to be removed first, got same issue with no blower at all so gonna try the resistor first, all fuses were good. If no joy it'll be a new blower motor next! Not so easy lying in car footwell! 😪
Is actually a fuse not a resister..... Is a quick fix with the resister ...but if you can get it open you will see is a fuse a small one like the home fans have... So I would used a fuse... Instead of the resister... because a fuse will go smoothly like it supposed to with a resister you are making a resistance and you cud burn something else... P.s personal opinion...
Great video...worked as shown. Note . You show one 1/2 Watt 1K ohm resistor. I only had 1/4 Watt resistors so I used two 2k ohm resistors in parallel and it works as it should.
Your 1 ohm resistor was actually 1K so I am not sure what I just watched. And even if you had the correct ohm value it needs to have a much higher wattage and be thermally connected to the heat sink.
That's not a bad resistor you're bypassing, it's an open (bad) thermal cutoff. This one, specifically: www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-EYP-2BN109-THERMAL-114%C3%82%C2%B0C-LEADED/dp/B00LPQIY7Y This is not a proper repair. You should remove the resistor and repair by replacing the bad thermal fuse with a good one. And, you'll need to do it properly, by installing the fuse exactly like the original, which helps to avoid opening the replacement fuse when using the soldering iron to install it. There should be a fuse in the event the MOSFET fails, so you don't cause other damage, such as to the blower motor itself. And, believe it or not, this isn't a blower motor resistor pack. It's a power transistor pack driving the blower motor. The massive heatsink is for cooling the thermal cutoff plus a 2SK2313 MOSFET.
As much as i understand that is a heatsink resistor that needs to be desoldered and replaced by a new heatsink resistor... Otherwise this will heat and can cause a fire...
Hola. Muchas gracias amigo realicé esa misma reparación y me funcionó perfectamente al 100% en mi honda civic coupe 2004, te lo agradezco muchas gracias buen video informativo. Saludos desde Panamá 🇵🇦
You make it look so easy for it to come out but mine is being a bitch, i got the screws removed but can't unplug it or remove due to a wire harness that runs in front of it. I can't get it to move. How do you have so much wire available for the plug?
Someone in the comments mentioned that the thermal fuse needs to touch the heat sink. I would like to know, since you had a close look at the mosfet, can it be separated from the heat sink so you can remove and replace the dead thermal fuse?
Same here… since the thermal fuse is a security measure, will adding the resistor as a bridge between won’t make it overheat? Or just in case it overheats how will it stop current from flowing?
@@ernestomedina8577 hola, la puedes comprar en cualquier tienda de electrónica. De echo yo ya la tenia porque venia incluida en un kit de protoboard que tenia. Garantizado que funciona Saludos.
That's not 1 Ohm ! Looks like 1K Ohm ! Also, you changed the Blower Motor !??? What was the original problem!??? Did the OLD one work AT ALL !??? Did the NEW one work AT ALL??? Or maybe just on HIGH FAN setting!? Curious! Did the car ever catch fire after that fix!? Cause clearly the OHMAGE on the resistor was wrong! Not sure if the WATTAGE on the resistor was ALSO wrong! Or given some of the comments below.... If you even had the right part all together! We sure didn't see it, so.... Hummmmm!!! Mind you, some people seen to think that new resistor.... Isn't hooked up to the heat sink.... But that sodder links it to those long metal brakets below the PC... And those look like they ARE... soddered to the Heat Sink.
The resistor actually needs to be a thermal fuse, as that's what has gone bad. Provided the MOSFET is still good, replacing the fuse should fix this pack.
Lol that resistor is waaaaaaaay to small. There’s a reason why the heat sink is so big and that resistor because it’s way more wattage, that resistor you put in is .5 W depending on the voltage but the resistor u used is for a circuitboard used for controls not direct for a motor
The heat sink is dissipating heat from a FET that's pulling a motor circuit to ground to control the fan speed. He's actually just jumping an open thermal fuse with a resistor to approximate the voltage drop of the fuse.
I think I'm dumber after reading the commits come on people instead of wasteing time removing the old resistor he just piggybacked the new easy as as for the commets saying oh its going to burn the car up RIGHT you forget its still on a fused in the fusebox beem me up Scotty lol
For the best snacks goto www.SnacksForMe.com
Love these repair instead of replacing videos.
Don't do this. It can cause a melt down of the plastic. The resistor is not the answer. He is basically bypassing a safety feature. The terminal resistor is what needs replaced and it's on the other side of the board.
This worked for me. Thanks for saving me $80 on a whole new resistor assembly.
Good job, resistor in UK honda civic mk7 is a pain to access and remove as it's buried behind the ECU unit amongst lots of cables so long Philips needed and hardly any slack on the wiring cable once removed, passenger kick panel, glove box, ECU unit all had to be removed first, got same issue with no blower at all so gonna try the resistor first, all fuses were good. If no joy it'll be a new blower motor next! Not so easy lying in car footwell! 😪
Top bloke! Did this on my old car but a friends now has the same problem!! Damn resistors😌
Is actually a fuse not a resister..... Is a quick fix with the resister ...but if you can get it open you will see is a fuse a small one like the home fans have... So I would used a fuse... Instead of the resister... because a fuse will go smoothly like it supposed to with a resister you are making a resistance and you cud burn something else... P.s personal opinion...
Great video...worked as shown.
Note . You show one 1/2 Watt 1K ohm resistor. I only had 1/4 Watt resistors so I used two 2k ohm resistors in parallel and it works as it should.
Your 1 ohm resistor was actually 1K so I am not sure what I just watched. And even if you had the correct ohm value it needs to have a much higher wattage and be thermally connected to the heat sink.
It's not even a resistor that went bad, it's a thermal fuse. He installed the wrong type of part to fix it.
What would be the right one to repair it? My resistor keeps burning up
I wonder how many car fires he’s caused. This is why RUclips shouldn’t have gotten rid of the thumbs down count.
You have to ask yourself what caused the thermal resistor to blow. Bypassing the RF is a risk.
Thanks man saved me 30 Euros - Thumbs up and subscribed
That's not a bad resistor you're bypassing, it's an open (bad) thermal cutoff.
This one, specifically:
www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-EYP-2BN109-THERMAL-114%C3%82%C2%B0C-LEADED/dp/B00LPQIY7Y
This is not a proper repair. You should remove the resistor and repair by replacing the bad thermal fuse with a good one. And, you'll need to do it properly, by installing the fuse exactly like the original, which helps to avoid opening the replacement fuse when using the soldering iron to install it.
There should be a fuse in the event the MOSFET fails, so you don't cause other damage, such as to the blower motor itself.
And, believe it or not, this isn't a blower motor resistor pack. It's a power transistor pack driving the blower motor. The massive heatsink is for cooling the thermal cutoff plus a 2SK2313 MOSFET.
As much as i understand that is a heatsink resistor that needs to be desoldered and replaced by a new heatsink resistor... Otherwise this will heat and can cause a fire...
It's a thermal cutoff that you are bypassing.. sure it works just fine. Right up until your car catches fire.
Had this question… since you are bypassing a thermal cutoff… won’t this be a risk?
@@allansierraolvera7984 He didn't bypass anything he simply replaced a blown resistor
It's really helpful.. Fixed my blower problem.. thanks
SUPER AWESOME .. That is a great tip man!!
Did that 1.0 Ohm resistor give you all fan speeds?
Hola. Muchas gracias amigo realicé esa misma reparación y me funcionó perfectamente al 100% en mi honda civic coupe 2004, te lo agradezco muchas gracias buen video informativo. Saludos desde Panamá 🇵🇦
Hare eso mismo, ya que creo que es esa pieza que esta dañada
Sin duda debe ser esa a mi me funcionó al 100
Great tutorial. Is the resistor the cause of the blower working weakly or stopping shortly after it starts?
where did you get the fuse?
I want to do the repair myself, but I need to know the characteristics of the wielder . I don't what to burn the resistor. Thanks
You make it look so easy for it to come out but mine is being a bitch, i got the screws removed but can't unplug it or remove due to a wire harness that runs in front of it. I can't get it to move. How do you have so much wire available for the plug?
You bypassed a thermal cutoff! Shame shame shame!
Sir may i say my quistion why is my resistor black is allways been damadge?
Worked for me... less than a $1
Thank you
❤ thanks buddy for sering your nolige
Someone in the comments mentioned that the thermal fuse needs to touch the heat sink.
I would like to know, since you had a close look at the mosfet, can it be separated from the heat sink so you can remove and replace the dead thermal fuse?
Same here… since the thermal fuse is a security measure, will adding the resistor as a bridge between won’t make it overheat? Or just in case it overheats how will it stop current from flowing?
Fantastic thank you
Another great video!
Did you use a 1/4 watt resistor or 1/2 watt?
Don't use any resistor to fix the blower motor transistor pack as shown.
The part that's gone bad is a thermal cutoff (2A, 250V, 114 celsius).
Watcher3223
Where can I get one?
@@Watcher3223 Does that mean it's 500w or does the wattage not matter for a thermal fuse ?
@@jeremylindemann5117 The thermal fuse should also provide electrical overload protection and the rating is measured in amperes, not watts.
@@sergiomartinez8955 I got my fuse from Amazon.
Thanks , you saved me heaps.
Excelente información, mil gracias!!!
Me funcionó muy bien en mi honda odyssey 2005.
Gracias
Cómo compraste la resistencia bro así tal cual 1k ohm? Y en donde la conseguiste por fa tengo el mismo problema
@@ernestomedina8577 hola, la puedes comprar en cualquier tienda de electrónica. De echo yo ya la tenia porque venia incluida en un kit de protoboard que tenia.
Garantizado que funciona
Saludos.
You the man Codey.
Thanks for tip ..it’s works👍🏼👍🏼❤️❤️
Good jop my brother
Excellent job!
That's not 1 Ohm !
Looks like 1K Ohm !
Also, you changed the Blower Motor !???
What was the original problem!???
Did the OLD one work AT ALL !???
Did the NEW one work AT ALL???
Or maybe just on HIGH FAN setting!?
Curious!
Did the car ever catch fire after that fix!?
Cause clearly the OHMAGE on the resistor was wrong!
Not sure if the WATTAGE on the resistor was ALSO wrong!
Or given some of the comments below....
If you even had the right part all together!
We sure didn't see it, so.... Hummmmm!!!
Mind you, some people seen to think that new resistor....
Isn't hooked up to the heat sink....
But that sodder links it to those long metal brakets below the PC...
And those look like they ARE... soddered to the Heat Sink.
Fine sir
Thanks Can you Gémo to fixe Toyota Yaris blower resistor
Dude...that should be a 100watt resistor mounted on the heat sink with air blowing from the fan.
The resistor actually needs to be a thermal fuse, as that's what has gone bad.
Provided the MOSFET is still good, replacing the fuse should fix this pack.
Lol that resistor is waaaaaaaay to small. There’s a reason why the heat sink is so big and that resistor because it’s way more wattage, that resistor you put in is .5 W depending on the voltage but the resistor u used is for a circuitboard used for controls not direct for a motor
The heat sink is dissipating heat from a FET that's pulling a motor circuit to ground to control the fan speed. He's actually just jumping an open thermal fuse with a resistor to approximate the voltage drop of the fuse.
Crack!, thanks...
You don't show the location
I think I'm dumber after reading the commits come on people instead of wasteing time removing the old resistor he just piggybacked the new easy as as for the commets saying oh its going to burn the car up RIGHT you forget its still on a fused in the fusebox beem me up Scotty lol
Just spend the $25 and buy a new one.. stop being cheap people
The cost for mine in $80
@@wildkeith $20 on Amazon...
@@Kevin_Matz I have been through 3 all with lifetime warranty. Lasted 10 mins or less. So Screw it !
$16 on ebay