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EETech_Fix
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Добавлен 16 фев 2017
Arduino Temperature Sensor | Thermistor
We have two thermistors that we're going to model. One is an epoxy-covered thermistor with long leads, and the other is an automotive (Honda) coolant temperature sensor. We'll use the Steinhart-Hart equation to derive a precise temperature for both thermistors. Since it provides a closer approximation to actual temperature than simpler equations and is useful over the entire working temperature range of the sensor.
Code & Documents GitHub
github.com/EETechFix/Industrial_Thermistor_Arduino
NTC Thermistors, Mini Epoxy PVC Twin Insulated Leads, 10K, 1%, Vishay NTCLE413E2103F106A
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-beyschlag-draloric-bc-components/NTCLE413E2103F106A/16530193
www.mouser.com/...
Code & Documents GitHub
github.com/EETechFix/Industrial_Thermistor_Arduino
NTC Thermistors, Mini Epoxy PVC Twin Insulated Leads, 10K, 1%, Vishay NTCLE413E2103F106A
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-beyschlag-draloric-bc-components/NTCLE413E2103F106A/16530193
www.mouser.com/...
Просмотров: 876
Видео
4-20mA Industrial Pressure Sensor, Arduino IoT
Просмотров 41 тыс.Год назад
This example device is an electronic circuit that can sense the environment using a sensor that converts real-world measurements into electrical signals. The device processes the information from the sensors with the behavior described in the software (sketch). The device then interacts with the world using actuators, electronic components that can convert an electric signal into physical actio...
Industrial Pressure Sensor - Arduino
Просмотров 67 тыс.2 года назад
The Arduino microcontroller controls an electronic circuit that can sense the environment using a sensor (electronic components that convert real-world measurements into electrical signals). The device processes the information from the sensors with the behavior described in the sketch. The device will then be able to interact with the world by using actuators and electronic components that can...
Arduino Distance Measurement Using HC-SR04 & BME280 Sensors
Просмотров 2514 года назад
Measure distance with an Arduino microcontroller and HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor. Two OLEDs display the measured values and the current Speed of Sound. Speed of Sound measurement corrected for temperature and humidity by a BME-280 Sensor. Code download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/npdgev Documents: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/srtqe1 EXTRA Must Watch Informational Video ??? assets.plandemicseries.com/pl...
Arduino Morse Code Generator
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.4 года назад
This project encodes text entered into Arduino’s Serial Monitor and outputs sequences of audio tones (Morse Code). These sequences of tones represent the original text. The Morse-It decoder application, as shown, verified the project's functionality. CODE: www.sendspace.com/file/bcy9cu EXTRA Must Watch Informational Video ??? assets.plandemicseries.com/plandemic3/2K_Export_NO_ADS_HD_1080.mp4
Repairing Your Honda Blower Motor Transistor
Просмотров 35 тыс.6 лет назад
Honda Blower Motor Transistor Repair Covers U.S. and Canadian models of Honda Civic (2001 - 2010) and Honda CR-V (2002 - 2009). Honda Civic, Accord, Odyssey & similar model car circuitry (2004- 2010) Video: Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting ruclips.net/video/PC1zadAFuug/видео.html Honda 2004 - 2010 Blower Motor Wiring.pdf drive.google.com/open?id=1v6Hyje417WhLRX2IFa...
Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting
Просмотров 46 тыс.6 лет назад
Honda Civic Blower Motor and Blower Transistor Troubleshooting Covers U.S. and Canadian models of the Honda Civic (2001 - 2005) and Honda CR-V (2002 - 2005). Honda Civic & Accord similar circuitry (2005 - 2009). Honda Blower Motor and Transistor Documentation Download Links: Honda Blower Motor DTC Codes drive.google.com/file/d/1w6-0kSb05PtxHKs2yFgmLBFtGVnmrDtT/view?usp=sharing Honda Blower Moto...
Thanks. Nice 🌹👍🏻
Can you recommend a water pipeline pressure sensor that's none-intrusive?
Thank you so much for this video.
A very informative and useful video. The plandemic video, not so much. Have a great day.
This was by far the best walkthrough I have found. I ordered a new fan motor and transistors before watching this. I wish I had watched this first. I'm confident, it is the transistors. I installed the new fan motor, nothing but I bet if I run the jumpers and test the transistor I will find the problem and could of saved $40.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I had the same problem with my wife's car. By following your video, I was able to verify the issue and fix it myself; saving me hundreds of dollars.
Glad to be of assistance.
Hello, what’s the display used in the video ? I have issue with mine
Thanks, this helped me verify that it was a bad TCO!
You're welcome glad it helped.
I have a 2010 Honda Civic and the blower stopped working but randomy will work. Under dash fuse is good, under hood fuse good, blower relay good, and I have no power to blower motor connector or transistor. If I jump the relay between 30 and 87, the blower will turn on and can be controlled via dash climate control. I tested the fuse box relay plug and have power on 2 plugs, and ground on one. The top left (85 or 86) doesnt have ground. Any ideas? Thanks
It appears you’re not getting any voltage out of relay plug 87. Referencing the under-hood blower motor relay, remove the relay from the socket and turn the ignition key to the accessory position. With a multimeter, measure the voltage at socket position 86, which should read 12 V. Then, measure the voltage at position 30, which should also read 12v. Turn the key off and measure socket position 85 with an ohmmeter to any good ground; it should read nearly zero ohms. The relay plugs 85 and 86 are the ends of the relay coil. Relay plug 30 is the 12v input to the switch contact, and plug 87 supplies 12v to the blower motor once the switch contact closes.
@eetech_fix2393 Thank you. Sounds like my next step.
I would like to try it..
If you accidentally hook those two wires up backwards, what would break?
You must specify the point in the video timeline where you refer to these two wires. Right-click that point on the timeline, select ”Copy video URL,” and paste that link into your reply.
@@eetech_fix2393 my fan came unplugged, I was using jumpers and electrical tape and my lady plugged it back in. She plugged them in backwards and it started to smoke from the transistor. I got a new fan installed Tomorrow, I’m going to check my fuses. I was just wondering if you might’ve came across this before
@@eetech_fix2393 my fan I plug it in backwards and the transistor started to smoke I got a new fan plugged it in correctly did not work. Should I replace the transistor next or did I just fuck the whole system? By plugging in the fan backwards.
@@Toldyousonoob If you have smoke from the Transistor at minimum, run the Transistor Test drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view to verify its condition. Also, check your fuses, especially the 40A Blower Motor fuse under the hood. If you disconnected quickly, the transistor may have survived. The fuses are there and will protect you from blowing the whole system.
@@eetech_fix2393 when I get off I will try it
How can I use the 7 segment display?🤔
Check out the following Links: ruclips.net/video/6XY9PooMrms/видео.htmlsi=1TXyetjzw1115ccd github.com/DeanIsMe/SevSeg github.com/bridystone/SevSegShift www.adafruit.com/product/878
As i begin working with analog sensors it was really a headache for me to get a stable read from analog sensor much appreciated . two of my worst problem solved in one video getting correct formula for sensor and having stable read from sensor and as i can see in circuit that you also did not use 104 capacitor with analog pin thank you for sharing this valuable information
You're welcome. I'm glad the information assisted you and your efforts.
What are the chances the Heatsink shorts out between the thermal piece. since it shares the 12v resistance. on the case.
Short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the Transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing
Thanks, this is excellent, just what I needed to translate my industrial sensor transmitter experience to the Arduino world!
For non US viewer and ppl who are not using the ebay link. Make sure you get the 2A version of the fuse and the casing is not metal. I don't know what the proper name for this is but all the 10A fuse seem to have a conductive metal case, and 2A one with a ceramic non-conductive case. I bought a 10A 115 C thermal cutoff with a shinny metal casing, turns out the casing is shorted one side of the lead, this shorts 1 and 4 because the casing of the fuse is connected to the hold-down clip which attaches to the heatsink and to PIN 4. I found out after plugging in the module in the car and the blower motor won't turn off, hopefully it hasn't have enough time to damage things. Also great videos, this video give me more reasons to continue to keep my Honda.
thank you this is Very informative So dont use a metal conductive thermal cutoff. use a Ceramic one . im about to do this instead of buying a 110$ one from autozone.
Correct, short at either end of the thermal fuse to the heat sink shorts 12v to the transistor control line (Pin 1). The motor would run continuously. This results from the voltage divider created by R1 and R2 providing a gate voltage of 10.9V, turning the transistor on full-time (Vth=2V). Imperative, you select a thermal fuse encased in ceramic with no metal or leads in contact with the heat sink. See attached link: drive.google.com/file/d/1-NagFeXUDYTD_3wMkdKTkmdWsdw6GuNy/view?usp=sharing
Congratulations!
can i usee 200PSI for this ???
So, can you do anything with this except punch out a readout? Like turn something on or off?
Good question! Understanding Pressure Sensors: Evolution, Operation, and Applications in the World of Industry and Enterprise. You can do much more than turn things on and off. These are the basics, the starting point for understanding computer-based technology. Check out the following link: ruclips.net/video/nilVafMyZ1M/видео.htmlsi=wWTr4KFjWcPWMrCq
i have the calculater link....
what about adding a relay and on and off function to the pump motor Sir, thanks
You could easily accomplish that; the sensor is just a starting point.
THANK YOU!!! Your two videos on how to connect and achieve pressure measurement were a great inspiration and I am in the process of waiting for the supplies to arrive so I can match and test your code and your connections. I thank you very much, excellent content that is super clear and very understandable, I only have one question, what elements do you put in the line towards the sensor in the positive? It is the green one and the blue one. I hope you can help me. Greetings.
I'm glad the videos were helpful. Concerning your question, I need help understanding; please clarify. Are you referring to the electrical connections or the airline fittings? Please reference a time from the timeline on the video. The green one and the blue one, please clarify.
@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you very much for answering so quickly, I thought it would take you a while to answer, I really appreciate your time in answering the questions, about the elements that I have doubts since minute 8:07 is in the line of the banana connector Va (red cable to the Vin+ of the INA230 that starts on line 55 of the breadboard towards line 15 of the positive, there is a green element and on line 17 there is a blue element, that's what they are, I hope I haven't confused my question any further, I hope you don't take my lack of knowledge the wrong way. to be able to express myself.
Thanks for the clarification; I'm ensuring we're on the same track and looking at the same things. The blue component (0.1uf ceramic capacitor) decouples (filters) electrical noise from the power supply. Excessive noise from the power supply is shunted through the capacitor to the ground, reducing its effect on the INA230. I installed the capacitor initially but found it unnecessary. The green component is the 62.5mA fuse to protect wiring and sensors. github.com/EETechFix/4-20mA_Sensor_Interface_Arduino/blob/main/4-20mA%20Project%20full%20schematic.pdf
Oh yes
which Oled you are using link please ? Using arduino uno where to connect OLED I2C/SPI ? will this code work for UNO ?
These OLEDs work SPI or I2C, and the code is compatible with Arduino boards, including the UNO. SPI is generally faster than I2C but uses more pins. If speed is usually no factor, go with the easier wiring of I2C. Very easy to get up and running because it has built-in level shifting works on 5v or 3.3v systems. The Adafruit links below cover Monochrome OLED boards. learn.adafruit.com/monochrome-oled-breakouts cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/monochrome-oled-breakouts.pdf
Hi, Most of my experience is working with DS18B20 sensors and serial data. My current project, Presently working on a -50 to 50 mbar sensor at 5VDC. Looking to map that data and change the readings to Microns. Happy Holidays and any insight is appreciated.
If your sensor has a range of -50 to +50 mbar, that equates to a range of -37,503.1 to +37,503.1 microns of mercury (uHg). That’s given 1mbar = 750.062uHg. On an Arduino 5v board set range for 0.5v (-37,503.1 uHg) to 4.5v (+37,503.1 uHg). The equation is: uHg = (18,751.55) x (voltage) - 46,878.875. Voltage (12-bit adc) = (adc_Val x Vref)/4,096.0 Example: If the adc_Val returned 3550 then (3,550x5)/4,096 = 4.33v. Therefore: uHg = (18,751.55) x (voltage) - 46,878.875 or (18,751.55) x (4.33) - 46,878.875 = 34,315.336uHg Longhand calculation: drive.google.com/file/d/1vCnTWACHxORRBO0FAKYRQIQoE1kb4tqB/view?usp=sharing The company below has I2C modules that may be an option to handle your project: store.ncd.io/product/ams5915-0050-d-b-amplified-low-pressure-sensor-50-to-50-mbar-0-725-to-0-725-psi-i2c-mini-module/ store.ncd.io/product/ams5915-0100-d-b-amplified-low-pressure-sensor-100-to-100-mbar-1-450-to-1-450-psi-i2c-mini-module/ store.ncd.io/product/i2c-shield-for-arduino-nano/
Hi ! Thank you so much for helping us out with this great video, can you help me by advising where i am going wrong ? i am getting the raw_adc values but the OLED is blank ? any help would be great, i am new to Arduino ! i have triple checked the pinouts and everything is wired correctly
Check the I2C address for your OLED 0x3C or 0x3D; normally works for the SSD1306 OLED. I2C oled default address 0x78 (0x3C in 7 -bit) and 0x7A (0x3D in 7 -bit). “ display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3c); // may need to change this to 0x3D”
Thank you ! that did the trick@@eetech_fix2393
Did you have a look at the signal with a scope? I’m finding these “fuel pressure transducers” output PWM bursts, not an analog signal at all.
They do make do make PWM pressure sensors; however, this is not one. If you’re referring to PWM Fuel Systems; they utilize feedback from a standard pressure sensor; thereafter, the PWM controller module outputs the correct PWM signal that controls the speed of the fuel pump, jet/transfer pumps, and related engine demands. The module is the source of the PWM. The sensors in this video are linear DC Analog voltage output. There may be some related signal noise from power supplies or other nearby sources (best handled with a .1uF capacitor); however, it's not PWM.
I've been trying to get an alternative to read these high-pressure transducers we use for automation in the field. Is there a way that it could read the data and automatically control multiple valves. Im incredibly new to this kind of stuff but i know python if thats enough to start.
Controlling and monitoring multiple locations is easily done using WiFi; however, each location requires a WiFi connection. Another option is LaRa; it doesn't require WiFi. LaRa uses long-range radio singles to network location. LaRa range requires its location to be within a four-mile range city or a ten-mile range rural. The following links give a good explanation of each option. ruclips.net/video/UFCmTZUoZ1M/видео.htmlsi=4u4W4PX4zPWpK4Nk ruclips.net/p/PLT6rF_I5kknObk6lnQMpk5NIUB_vEHcNW ruclips.net/video/YQ7aLHCTeeE/видео.htmlsi=Zg9AkzXK6H_7BAMA
@@eetech_fix2393You mean LoRa.
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Can i use ina219?
Yes... cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-ina219-current-sensor-breakout.pdf
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks sir
Can you help me if I use a 300 bar pressure sensor, what about the code sketch? Thank you very much
Using the nominal values .5V = 0 bar and 4.5V = 300 bar the equation: barVal = (voltage * 75.0) - 37.5 You may need to update variable names, psi or psiVal. See code line 55 for Every or code line 95 for MKR.
You are awesome man, I have watched a lot of tutorials but yours it's by far the best one, you even put your resources in Google drive, thanks for your service man ❤
If you have a long screwdriver and you hang the glove box. You can get a little access and remove the screws easily. Excellent video. It couldn't be explained better.
Fantastic tutorial.Just subscribed May I ask? Do you use electron or conventional theory or both when you diagnose. Just wondering if one is easier to understand electronics? CHEERS
I use both. Technically, current flows from negative to positive in conductors. It doesn’t matter which convention you use if you’re consistent. Since electrons and protons have an equal but opposite charge, an electron flowing in one direction is equal to a proton flowing in the opposite direction. You can still use conventional current flow even though it’s not technically correct and come up with the right answer. Most formulas used in electronics, such as Ohm’s Law, pretend that current flows from positive to negative. And if you think about it, most schematics depict a current flow from the positive side of a battery through conductors and loads to the ground, the negative side of the battery. In the end, it doesn’t matter. I use both, whichever makes the circuit analysis easier. Again, remember that most formulas and books represent conventional current flow. For most bench-type troubleshooting, the direction of current flows is unimportant; the amount of current flows is.
😊
Hello and congratulation for your video. I am using a Honeywell 150psi 0.5-4.5V (ratiometric) sensor and as far as I understood the equation should be: psiVal = (37.5 * voltage) - 18.75. Is that right? [or... psiVal = (voltage - 0.5) / 0.02666 ] Also because I am using an Uno R4 Wifi and the transducer is very accurate according its specs, the aRef could be 5.00. Am I right too?
The equation you’ve chosen is correct; however, the other is also correct. It’s a play on the math and how the variables are arranged. At the beginning of the video, I measured voltage (dependent variable “Y”) concerning a known pressure (independent variable “X"). The Arduino gives a voltage reading, so the equation was rearranged to make voltage the independent and dependent variable pressure. Both equations yield the same answer from a different starting point. Secondly, the Uno R4 reference voltage should be 5 V; however, if powered from your computer’s USB, It could be as low as 4.8V. psiVal = (37.5 * voltage) - 18.75 or psiVal = (voltage - 0.5) / 0.0266666
Thanks for your time once again@@eetech_fix2393
I managed to get the setup but I have some issues: the current readings from the INA260 are in 1.25mA steps maybe because the resolution of the INA260 is 1.5mA?? Also there is a huge lag when changing the position of the sensor and getting the readings on the screen.. also getting the flickering of the second line in the screen. .
As advertised, the INA260’s 16-bit ADC allows for measurements over the 15A current range with a resolution of 1.5 mA. Try commenting out the “ //display.display(); .“ on line# 111 (IOT-code) or line# 94 (Non-IOT code) versions to correct that OLED flicker. Changing sensor position is also a change in the sensing environment, which requires some time to stabilize in the new environment. This code incorporates a low pass filter which accumulates readings over a 30 to 40-second time span to give you a smooth reading. The software filter requires another 30 to 40 seconds of readings to stabilize after you change the sensor position. You can reduce that time by reducing the filter's alpha, which will also reduce some smoothing, giving you a faster response. Change line#33 IOT or line#31 Non_IOT to: “ const float alpha 0.70; ” You can also try 0.40, No smoothing 0.0
Flickering is gone! And the lack is gone! Thanks! Any idea how to improve the measuring? Maybe measuring voltage with a 500ohm resistor? Can be done with the ina260?
You can try a 150-ohm resistor (3.3V board) or 225-ohm resistor (5V board) in series with your 4-20mA current loop and measure directly across the resistor using the ADC of your microcontroller. Those resistance values will give you an over-current and under-current measurement range. Be cautious of ground loops. Isolated Arduino ground, or ensure the resistor is on the lower end and measure from one end of the resistor to the ground.
Thank you! Any chance one can pay you to come up with code/arduino solution for compressor and air pressure control which is adjustable via the buttons and screen?
Hello, how are you, the video is very impressive, but you could do the same design but with the INA226, because it doesn't work for me. By the way, greetings from Ecuador
Greetings to you in Ecuador. Absolutely, the INA226, INA219, and INA169 are good options.
I love that you can just directly plug these across the arduino 5v pins and put the output cable into an analog pin and it just straight up works
this code is working with Arduino uno ? which oled you are using ?
Well explained, thank you! I am currently working with a 5000PSI pressure transducer (Output voltage 0.5V-4.5V) and the Arduino NanoEvery. I have some questions; do I have to test my pressure transducer before creating the code or it can work with your code? Why do you use 4.6 as your X1 instead of 4.5? What is it the thing you are using to connect the pressure transducer to the breadboard, and it has a capacitor inside?
The nominal values for these sensors are 0.5 - 4.5v. Without further testing, you can use those values as your initial starting point, and they should yield good results. In the case of the video, I took measured readings at the top end and came up with a 4.6, which is within 2.2% of the nominal. The capacitor for noise reduction may be better served decoupling power going into the sensor; therefore, the capacitor should be connected to the red power wire, then to the ground. The sensor connection to the breadboard was made using breakaway header strips and a standard three-pin female servo connector. The header strips can be found on Adafruit product ID 400. The servo connectors can be assembled from any good Servo Connector Kit. How to crimping DuPont Connectors: ruclips.net/video/A-ewZMjQFfo/видео.html
@@eetech_fix2393 Thank you for your prompt response. Can I use the same conde for the 5KPSI sensor? if so, what should I add to the circuit? If I use the same code and use the 4.6, I got for PSI = 1219.512 (Volts) -609.756. Is this correct?
@@itzelvanessaalcantar2664 Correct, replace line #55 in the Every core with your numbers : psiVal = (1219.512 * voltage) - 609.756; The only change is pressure scaling.
Thanks a lot for posting this video! Thanks to you I was able to find that I had a blown thermal fuse. However, I was not able to find a 2A 115C fuse but only a 10A one in my local electronics stores (I'm in a bit of a hurry as we are in a heatwave). However, after replacing it it is now stuck on full. Is this due to the fuse or is there something else wrong like my control unit?
Which model vehicle? May still have an issue with your transistor module. The control modules are low-percentage failure items; however, still a possibility.
@@eetech_fix2393 2001 sedan with a 1.6L D series engine. I figured I had burned the transistor, which was true, since after replacing it it was working normally. However after about a minute, it was once again stuck on full. My opinion is, something is causing more current to pass through the circuit, burning the transistor, unless the proper fuse is there to sacrifice itself. This answer is rather well timed since I will be getting my hands on the proper fuse and a new transistor tomorrow :) Anyways, since I got some spares as well I have a few chances to test what is wrong. The filters where a bit dirty but definitely not clogged. If you have any suggestions on where to look you'd be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
During the replacement of parts, sometimes there is an issue in the disassembly and reassembly process. With the replacement of the thermal fuse, always ensure none of the leads nor any metal parts connected to the leads touch the heat sink. Only the non-metallic parts of the thermal fuse should ever come in contact with the heat sink. You must remember that the heat sink, due to its direct connection to the drain of the transistor, has a 12 V potential if it comes in contact with any of the leads of the thermal switch or any other conductive part of the module you have a short to ground and the possibility of the fan runs all the time. After you replace the fuse and transistor and get the module reassembled, run the following test to ensure everything is connected correctly and no other issues exist. TABLE 1 TABLE 1 BLOWER TRANSISTOR TEST drive.google.com/file/d/1u2d3_BE0IlePQrb1HfBnxZir6aF8kAhU/view
I am just coming across this video and it's absolutely amazing. I am learning about all of this in hopes of make a oil pressure/ boost gauge with negative pressure with a small 2-1/16” (52mm) circle lcd screen , I am stumped on the coding to get not only the value change but possible having its set as a normal gauge with a lcd needle sweeping across the gauge similar to a big hand on a clock
Check out the GC9A01 LCD module. Several libraries are associated with that module that incorporates the code that will perform those functions for you. There’s also the OLED. ruclips.net/video/k2c2zCmC_X0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/13PFOwcK3-I/видео.html
@eetech_fix2393 thank you so much! Also keep making videos I just came across this one and I watched all your others and very good Information and explanation
@eetech_fix2393 how would I go about to possibly make the gauge to be controlled through phone bluetooth/wifi to change interfaces or change backgrounds with gifs
@@2point4turbo The Arduino IOT cloud is a very user-friendly interface and great for that type of project. Allowing control of your Arduino from your mobile device anywhere with an Internet connection. Reference link to get started: ruclips.net/video/UFCmTZUoZ1M/видео.html
Greetings, I want to configure this air pressure sensor to a leg pressure cuff in my project. Is 100PSI doable for my project? Thank you for the wonderful video.
Leg compression machine measures in mmHg (millimeters of mercury). Most devices provide up to 350 mmHg (about 8psi). 100 psi is probably high. 10 to 15 psi gauge is reasonable. Check it out and verify it for your project.
I've yet to find a better troubleshoot, diagnose and repair video of this transistor to date... Nothing short of excellent
Can you help make a 4 to 20 ma conductivity transmitter circuit?
Try using a LM317 : drive.google.com/file/d/1wA5XTcI107lk8oJLWGQiVKVJa0FjRRzz/view?usp=sharing
i am tempted to buy the 30PSI version of the walfront sensor, but i am unsure how it operates it's output when i can only supply 3.3V since i am working from battery ... can anybody tell me or recommend an alternative transducer that outputs voltage or is even digital !? 30PSI, 3.3V liquid
Use any 5V 30 psi sensor; just rescale for a 3.3 V system @ 30PSI as I did with the MKR 1010. Use the following equation on your 3.3V - 30 psi system: PSI = 11.278 * (output voltage) - 4.06. That will give you an approximately linear reading. After that, you can take exact readings at your sensor's high and low ends and recalculate for accuracy specific to your sensor. Replace the 100 y2 with 30 y2 in this example: ruclips.net/video/junu_66G_QQ/видео.html
@@eetech_fix2393 thx i will try, the old sensor i had was out of spec sample i got from my old work, but the newer one do have a calibrated, not ratiometric voltage output and require proper voltage or will simply not output above 3.3v
Incredibly helpful video. I'm currently working on a project involving measuring burst pressure in membranes, and ideally would like to use a pressure transducer to measure the pressure inside a tube and record/plot the pressure over time on a computer. Do you know how I could set up something like this?
A few links in the right direction. ruclips.net/video/eFLa8Q5YJrQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/q4GamN10UuQ/видео.html cloud.arduino.cc/how-it-works/