Honda Odyssey 2005-2010 Blower Motor Resistor Testing - Showing pins!
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Video detailing the testing (showing pins!) of good and bad blower motor resistors for a 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey (probably works for similar Honda models)
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After getting frustrated by another video where the presenter had his hands in the way, I was happy to find your clear and visible explanation. Thank you, brother.
That video was precisely why I made this video 😅
Very helpful, thank you for making this video so they were able to test the component prior to throwing parts at a vehicle. It’s also interesting to see that the parts store had a somewhat superior product to the online.
Howdy, just wanted to say that this helped me isolate the issue in my wife's 2008 Honda Civic to the Blower Motor itself. Apparently, parts stores won't take back on returns (electronics). Saved me having to pick up the resistor as well. Back to great air flow and working A/C and heat. /win
Yes! Thanks for posting this. This was exactly my problem on a 2007 odyssey touring... Now if Honda would just mount that darn thing in a place that is easier to get at!!!
Hi. If between 1 and 2 are open circuit, this means the thermal fuse has blown. It is 114 degrees C, 2 amp rated. Probably just got tired, living too close to its 2 amp limit all the time. Probably not blown due to exceeding temp unless the fan is really struggling to provide enough airflow past the heat sink or all the vents are closed or blocked. There are four plastic clips holding this unit together. Open up, note the thermal fuse is at the opposite end of the pcb to the transistor. It is living in a big dollop of heat sink paste under a clip. Check it is open circuit without removing it. To check it is the only thing wrong, solder a link to bridge it out and momentarily test the fan function in the car. Assuming speed control is now working, replace the thermal fuse. De-solder the 3 legs of transistor from the pcb. This allows you to tip up the pcb enough to unscrew the transistor and thermal fuse hold down clip and get the pcb out. Wipe off the heat sink paste from the thermal fuse and replace. Make sure it has enough heat sink paste to live in. Don't just leave the solid link in place as a way of fixing it. This could lead to a car fire if things go wrong.
This will only cost a few $ max.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Outstanding presentation!. Thanks for posting.
Very helpful. Thank you for making this excellent video.
I found this after I fixed my problem with a new resistor. I wish I had fond it first, because the information was buried in the other videos
Thanks for stopping by! Yeah I need to create more content so this video can be more easily found. Of course more likes would help too! 😅
Thank you so much. Replaced and working again. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Muchas gracias por tu ayuda me sirvió mucho mil gracias Karl
great video thanks
Thank you for posting this lot of help . god bless
Thanks very helpful video
Would love to see another video of this test because I've tested my OEM Resistor and am getting 10.5 between pins one and 2 but am getting no reading (open circuit) between pins 1 and 3 and pins 1 and 4. I ordered a new resistor and it tested exactly the same as the OEM one. I returned it, assuming that this video is correct and that I should be getting around 90 between 1 and 3 and 1 and 4. Ordered a second resistor and again, same as the OEM one.
To the OP, where did you get the info that told you that the resistance between pins 1 & 3 and 1 & 4 must be in the 90's?
I didn't get any information from anywhere, only information I get is exactly what we see in the video.
Did the blower motor come on intermittent with the Amazon resistor or the bad resistor? I bought a resistor and blower motor from eBay and comes on when plugging in harness but immediately turns off.
K]
Thank you for your video, can you please answer why the second resistor (from MTX Audio) didn't work ? You got values for each pin...
Yes, the MTX one shows some values, but the values are too far off from the values of the Autozone (working) resistor. If the resistance is too high then the voltage going through will be too low, and the device it's connected to won't operate properly. Hope this helps!
Is this device located near blower motor under dash? My 2006 odyssey’s front blower stopped working.
Is under the dash, accessed from the inside, on the passenger side on my 2009
Why does this resistor overheat? The plastic melted on the edges of the connectors. I also could not remove the plug from the back of the blower motor and that plug may also have melted. Just curious why this would happen.
Wow! That sounds pretty severe. Hmm. maybe your blower motor has a short? Or a short somewhere along the way? That's all I can think of.
Mine showing 11k 1-2 and about 40-42k 1-3 and 1-4 - tried to swap front to rear (almost identical resistance) and still rear blower won't kick in - front working fine - it could be (maybe) control box in rear since I had to replace MICU because of water damage - those vans leaking thru roof inseam by roof racks - not enough caulking - there supposed to be class action law suit cause those wet micu-s (by left driver leg) causing all kinds of problems from power door not working ,no high beam ,wipers ,traction light on, discharging battery etc ,dealers making millions looking for problems and replacing unnecessary parts - the real problem - leaking roof
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Ok... where did you learn to count objects in position to each other, like that? Is this and Asiaphile thing? In the spirit of Japanese engineering?
🤣 No.. I just recall seeing pin counting done that way, like on DIN connectors.
it never can be in kohms it must be milliohms
Jim Ip Vai Ching sorry but it is kohm