A good impact wrench is worth it's weight in gold. This video is proof. A good friend give me an old beat up Ford Focus to drive in the winter. It was a mess. A trip to a you pull it yard, $500, and about 2 weeks worth of work, and it's like new now. I ended up liking it so much, it's become my daily driver. 35mpg, you can't beat an old Ford!
I have a 1980 F100 and did the same thing, Mine was a U.S. Forrestry truck though. I would definately get a new hood and drivers fender though, even if you have to run to Wal-mart to get some rattle can paint that's close enough to pass to repaint the new ones it's still worth it. That fender being all bent up like that is going to do nothing but cause more problems and rust out the the rest of the truck as time goes on.
Use rubber gloves when changing out light bulbs; they'll last longer. The dirt and oil from your fingers will cause the light bulb to heat unevenly, and it'll burn out quicker.
This is the kind of content I like! The kind of video that shows everything with tips and tricks, real knowledge and just relatable kinds of work that anyone could do. Subscriber gained! And maybe I can use some of this for my 94 Ranger or if I own an OBS Ford in the future (its pretty likely tbh)
Well I'm quite impressed, you have a lot of knowledge and skill for a young man. I'm probably 3 times your age. I have the same truck except it's a short bed version. I got it for $800 five years ago. It needed TLC with many of the similar issues you've encountered. The good; it has zero rust. In Arizona vehicles don't rust. The bad; it had 389,000 miles and now has 405K. The 5.8 in it runs great though and doesn't appear to have ever been rebuilt. I'm subscribed now!
@@loose-arrow-garage Thanks man! I’ve always had bad luck with those 5.8L motors, but obviously they last when you take good care of them. I heard they cut a lot of corners on them from the factory, they were very restrictive airflow-wise. With a couple bolt-on parts like intake, exhaust, etc. they can perform MUCH better.
I was unsure how I felt about the bullet casing locks but then they grew on me. Little details like that make it YOUR truck. I hope to restore one of these at some point in my life so I’m glad I stumbled upon this channel. Cool video 👍
I went ahead and subscribed bc you actually know what you're doing! I am A DIY'er that enjoys random car care from guys like myself who kinda jump in without having a million dollars laying around to use for projects. I am not a mechanic however ALL friends and family rely on my skills to get their automotive needs taken care of. Keep up the good work and real life content. ✌🏾
Awesome work, don't question why you bought it. Twenty years from now it will be one of your favorite memories and you'll miss the truck if you don't keep it. Couple of things, all LEDs are directional since they are a diode. Some manufacturers may put in a switching circuit, but the "bulb" only works one way. The welding stuff has been addressed a few times, I think you've got it by now. Practice on some of your scrap steel. Also sheet metal is hard to weld regardless, it's very easy to blow through. For your headliner, if you care about the tears anyway, get some spray on fabric glue. Aerosol style. At least you can get it stuck in place and prevent it from getting worse. I'm looking forward to checking out your other content!
The slot is for an anti-slosh module. Makes the fuel gauge less responsive under braking turning and acceleration. Anytime the fuel would slosh around and make the gauge erratic.
I replaced every build with LED in my 10th Gen F150. Some of the old bulbs had heat scorch marks from the old bulbs. I purchased a clean dash from the East Coast to replace the California rotted dash.
Dude! I had a 1996 ext cab that I paid $2k for and drove it for 6 years. Lwb, same rims and tires and it had a topper. Took off the topper put in a toolbox and gave it a thorough cleaning. Mechanical issues were few, water pump and a new ignition switch. Every time I started thinking about selling it, I would get compliments about it from a stranger.
I must say I am impressed with your knowledge of the Ford trucks i'm 53 I've been turning wrenches for living for 40 years damn near My dad owned a shop I grew up in the shop and you are very very knowledgeable I am impressed Oh that one spot on your instrument cluster that you didn't know what was used I believe they used the same cluster in like theThunderbirds it because of the bezel ends up looking different but that was for the turbo boost light on the Super Coupes
On that tailgate welding, turn up your amperage a little more, and clean your material! Things will stick a whole lot better when you clean them first. A flap wheel or wire wheel on a grinder will help a ton.
Rewire the headlights to run through relays like aftermarket lights, using the factory headlight switch as the trigger. That way, they're not pulling all their power through the headlight switch, causing it to run hot.
I agree 💯. A few months ago I changed the headlight switch in my son's 1990 Ranger. No wonder the lights kept cutting out; the plastic part of the switch plug was badly melted leaving exposed wiring. Very lucky it didn't cause a fire.
I should add that anyone replacing this switch needs to be cautious; it heats up fast. I did it after moving the truck from the street to the driveway, a run time of only a couple minutes, and yet the old switch was almost hot enough to burn my fingers.
I bought my same truck in my picture which is a 1993 f150 7 years ago I bought it from a guy it sat on his land in a same field for 8 years and we put a battery in it and drained the gas and put fresh gas in it and it started right up. I drove it home put new tires on it and did some maintenance and washed and cleaned it up. Been driving it ever since it has 671k miles and just keeps going my family has owned these old ford from 80’s to early 90’s and they just keep going they are bullet proof the engines where great the 300, 351, 460 were tanks of engines the 302 was okay but over 200k would have issues my dad has a 91 f250 with a 351 had 437k before it needed rebuilt, uncle had a 88 f350 with a 460 had 534k. These old fords were made to last!
@@Garydasnaill I’ve never had good experience with the EFI 351 motors, Ford cut a lot of corners when designing it and it had a lot of problems. The 302 was much better but still not great, 460 was awesome but just got terrible mileage. And obviously the 300, which doesn’t need anything except half a quart of oil and some fuel and will run forever lol.
I have a ‘93 F150 5.0 my grandpa bought new and left to me. You have inspired me to restore it and have provided so much knowledge how on how to do it!
The amount of knowledge you possess with these trucks is pretty wild man. It shows how much you love em. I have a question for ya; I got a 94 flairside truck, are the AODE and 4R70W interchangeable?
@@theleh I’m not entirely sure, the transmissions are kind of complicated on these trucks. I know for a fact you can’t put a transmission in from a different year because it won’t work with the computer. The 4R70W is an updated version of the AODE, however the AODE was used in trucks I believe 93 and older, where the 4R70W was introduced in 94. They also have different internals due to redesign, so I would guess that they are not interchangeable. What you would need in order to do a swap though is get the transmission of choice, and find a computer for a 302 (assuming that’s the engine you have) that had the same transmission as the one you want to swap in, and out of the same year of that transmission. In all honesty, it might be easier to just buy a whole truck as a donor for the drivetrain that you want, it’s near impossible finding a computer with all the options you want. Currently in that situation trying to find an E4OD computer for mine.
@GasGuzler That was the answer I was most afraid of, but knew was coming. Ford had a real knack for making 10 different transmissions for 1 style of truck lol. Might be stuck rebuilding this aode, I thought it was weird to see it in a 94 as well, but who knows. I appreciate ya, hope you find your ecu soon 🤘🤘
I have a 1993 F150 XL 35k original miles. Bought as a project truck. But I did a radiator thermostat and water pump and topped off coolant and she runs too good. So I acquired a 1996 F150 that sat on my dad's farm for years. Well this one is actually a project. You've inspired me to make a video to document this adventure.
Unsure if you'll see this, but whenever you're using any kind of saw or impact driver, please use earplugs. It's a fantastic habit to have, and you can use the kind that rest on your neck and you can just place them in your ears when you need them. It'll do you a lot of good.
First of all its a beater so who cares but yeah, next time you need to weld some rusty spot pass over it with a grinder (or sand paper) to get some clean metal. Will weld way easier and sturdier. Paint, dirt, and rust all contaminate welds and weaken them.
I had a 1994 I bought almost new in 1995. I kick myself in the butt most everyday for not keeping it…. They were built like a tank compared to the new ones that are being built today!
😂😂😂... Those Goodyear tires are "Standard Issue " for OBS Fords...I got some on my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck XLT Extended cab....Had a 1994 Ford f150...Same tires on it as well...
@@GasGuzler ... prolly right...Plus, those are the only tires I see will fit the factory originals rims...Unless you go with Aftermarket rims...Used to be under a $100.00/tire at Wallyworld...Now, 'bout a $110.00 , I think...
Love these trucks. I have had a few and my property even came with one. But dang they are not comfortable when you are tall. Your knees are pretty much just in the dash when you are trying to drive. Can't really use the blinkers. Still love em though.
Check that radiator support where it mounts to the frame. Replaced mine ; many rot out here. Replaced mine for about $250. Get the long bolts from the junk yard a set is $100+
@@donaldfrederick1557 So weirdly enough mine has a ton of rust especially around the mounts, but the actual structure inside of the support that bolts to the frame is completely solid. I’ll most likely replace it in the future as the tree crushed a pretty big portion of it but I’m going to run it for now.
@@GasGuzler welder here. it was pretty obvious your wirefeed speed wasnt high enough, it happens to the best of us. as a general rule theres recommended settings inside the welder flap of the machine. its not perfect but you can use it as a baseline. mig is supposed to sound similar to frying bacon when its done correctly, also cleaning up the base material beforehand will only help. you had some free sheet metal lying around so i wouldve done a couple test runs on that before welding the tailgate. if you still wanna do better, jody on weldingtipsandtricks here on youtube has a million videos explaining how to weld. hope this helps.
Try fixing the psom on the back of the speedo, there’s 2 capacitors that leak and need to be replaced, same with the ecu/ecm and can fix running issues
Just a slight correction, the C6 is actually a 4 speed auto, not 3. you have 1st, 2nd, Drive(3rd) then Overdrive(4th), just like with the AODEs, however with some shifting you could select 3rd with the AODEs. The 3 speeds ford autos you are probably think of are the C3 or C5s. To put it simply, at least for these years, if you have overdrive in a ford automatic, it's 4 a speed, if it does not, it's just a 3 speed. Also if you have one for the 302/351, you have a transmission worth it's weight in gold (at least it's bell housing) and are extremely hard to find, just because it uses a different bell housing compared to a normal C6 for the 400/460 (and ford didn't make a lot of them for 302/351). The nice thing is the guts are mostly interchangeable.
@@mathisve I live up in New England, everything up here is priced ridiculously. I just happened to come across this truck on Facebook Marketplace in Massachusetts and immediately went to grab it. Every now and then you’ll find a really good deal, but I think the ridiculous prices are a normal thing no matter where you live.
What's the setting on that welder? Just a 120v welder? .030 wire? Flux or gas shielded? Just by sight, it seems like your are too cold on volts and too fast wire feed.
I only showed about a minute of the welding but I was out there for about 2 hours trying to play around with it. It’s my dad’s welder, it’s an ancient Miller I’m not sure what the specs on it are. That welder has never worked properly the whole time he’s owned it for the last 15 years though, I tried going hotter and slowing wire speed and nothing was working to make the welds stick, it wound up burning right through the tailgate but still wasn’t sticking so I just welded what I could and shot self tappers through the rest of it.
I have the same truck, only in the 93 in a V8 flavor. The one part no one seems to have is the mirror remote control switch. I've three different brands and no of them work correctly.
What was wrong with the donor tailgates that you used the parts from. if they are solid, I would use that and just repaint it white versus dealing with welding a rusted tailgate. Just my opinion
@@bthompson101202 Yes lol, I know that they mean Drive and Overdrive. I’ve learned that a lot of the demographic of my viewers are people who don’t know much about cars, so I try to use simple terms to help get the message across.
Hey I have a 1996 f150 and the bullet ideas are cool as he'll for the locks what size bullet you use ?? Thanks and the little black pice what was that ??
man, i want to live where these trucks are $500
I believe the $500 truck is a myth and only on RUclips do they exist.
I live in Georgia and a truck here is like 1000 while the same exact truck 2 hours away in Alabama is like 400)
$
Gotta live where the average salary is 24k 😂😂
$500 truck but 😱-K in repairs and this gent had to put in an extraordinary amount of work to get to this point.
If you clean the metal where your going to weld and where your ground clamp is it will weld 100x better
Exactly. Cleaning any area you're working on makes the job(s) easier, let alone last longer/be stronger. Even applying tape.
it also sounds like he could go up a couple notches in the wire speed
@@stickmananimation790 yeah I think so. I use flux core wire n it welds better than that just spatters a lot
Yep welding is 90 percent prep
A good impact wrench is worth it's weight in gold. This video is proof. A good friend give me an old beat up Ford Focus to drive in the winter. It was a mess. A trip to a you pull it yard, $500, and about 2 weeks worth of work, and it's like new now. I ended up liking it so much, it's become my daily driver. 35mpg, you can't beat an old Ford!
What year focus ? I got a 2013 for 2500$ and 90,000km on it (in 2019) because it has brutal hail damage, lol runs like a top but is getting rusty
I have a 2010 Focus. Rusty but Trusty. Has 130k on it and I think the factory suspension finally needs some work
I have a 1980 F100 and did the same thing, Mine was a U.S. Forrestry truck though. I would definately get a new hood and drivers fender though, even if you have to run to Wal-mart to get some rattle can paint that's close enough to pass to repaint the new ones it's still worth it. That fender being all bent up like that is going to do nothing but cause more problems and rust out the the rest of the truck as time goes on.
I have a 97 F250 and you have many similar little silly problems with my truck. This video has taught me so much, thank you!!!
@@joshtheripper7128 Glad you learned something from my videos!
Use rubber gloves when changing out light bulbs; they'll last longer. The dirt and oil from your fingers will cause the light bulb to heat unevenly, and it'll burn out quicker.
This is true for halogens. Not for LEDs
This is the kind of content I like! The kind of video that shows everything with tips and tricks, real knowledge and just relatable kinds of work that anyone could do. Subscriber gained! And maybe I can use some of this for my 94 Ranger or if I own an OBS Ford in the future (its pretty likely tbh)
Well I'm quite impressed, you have a lot of knowledge and skill for a young man. I'm probably 3 times your age. I have the same truck except it's a short bed version. I got it for $800 five years ago. It needed TLC with many of the similar issues you've encountered. The good; it has zero rust. In Arizona vehicles don't rust. The bad; it had 389,000 miles and now has 405K. The 5.8 in it runs great though and doesn't appear to have ever been rebuilt. I'm subscribed now!
@@loose-arrow-garage Thanks man! I’ve always had bad luck with those 5.8L motors, but obviously they last when you take good care of them. I heard they cut a lot of corners on them from the factory, they were very restrictive airflow-wise. With a couple bolt-on parts like intake, exhaust, etc. they can perform MUCH better.
I was unsure how I felt about the bullet casing locks but then they grew on me. Little details like that make it YOUR truck. I hope to restore one of these at some point in my life so I’m glad I stumbled upon this channel. Cool video 👍
I went ahead and subscribed bc you actually know what you're doing! I am A DIY'er that enjoys random car care from guys like myself who kinda jump in without having a million dollars laying around to use for projects. I am not a mechanic however ALL friends and family rely on my skills to get their automotive needs taken care of. Keep up the good work and real life content. ✌🏾
That's awesome man. I had a '96 Eddie Bauer Edition. That was a great truck. I shouldn't have traded back in 2008. Sigh.. oh well. Awesome video man.
Awesome work, don't question why you bought it. Twenty years from now it will be one of your favorite memories and you'll miss the truck if you don't keep it.
Couple of things, all LEDs are directional since they are a diode. Some manufacturers may put in a switching circuit, but the "bulb" only works one way. The welding stuff has been addressed a few times, I think you've got it by now. Practice on some of your scrap steel. Also sheet metal is hard to weld regardless, it's very easy to blow through. For your headliner, if you care about the tears anyway, get some spray on fabric glue. Aerosol style. At least you can get it stuck in place and prevent it from getting worse. I'm looking forward to checking out your other content!
25:50 that is for the fuel slosh detector that came on the econoline vans of that era because they all had the xl version of the f-series clusters
Sweet, might try to install the chip in this truck since the fuel gauge jumps around about a quarter of a tank while driving.
I watch videos like this from time to time to feel manly
LOL 🤣
lmao
What you did with the door locks was badass. I’m going to steal that idea.
those trucks are just beautiful
The slot is for an anti-slosh module. Makes the fuel gauge less responsive under braking turning and acceleration. Anytime the fuel would slosh around and make the gauge erratic.
I replaced every build with LED in my 10th Gen F150. Some of the old bulbs had heat scorch marks from the old bulbs. I purchased a clean dash from the East Coast to replace the California rotted dash.
Dude! I had a 1996 ext cab that I paid $2k for and drove it for 6 years. Lwb, same rims and tires and it had a topper. Took off the topper put in a toolbox and gave it a thorough cleaning. Mechanical issues were few, water pump and a new ignition switch. Every time I started thinking about selling it, I would get compliments about it from a stranger.
I must say I am impressed with your knowledge of the Ford trucks i'm 53 I've been turning wrenches for living for 40 years damn near My dad owned a shop I grew up in the shop and you are very very knowledgeable I am impressed Oh that one spot on your instrument cluster that you didn't know what was used I believe they used the same cluster in like theThunderbirds it because of the bezel ends up looking different but that was for the turbo boost light on the Super Coupes
I absolutely love that truck. Great job restoring it.
Beautiful work, glad to see another Ford guy take such care in work
On that tailgate welding, turn up your amperage a little more, and clean your material! Things will stick a whole lot better when you clean them first. A flap wheel or wire wheel on a grinder will help a ton.
The speedo bouncing is usually the speed sensor located in the rear differential
Showing your welding on RUclips takes a brave soul.
@@mikehuffaker3593 Never seen a positive comments section on one 😂😂
@ truth. Just found your videos. Old trucks are the gift that keeps on giving.
Good for you, man keep working on stuff!
Dude, you gotta get a shield for the cut-off wheel on your grinder. Those are prone to flying apart and sending shrapnel everywhere.
Rewire the headlights to run through relays like aftermarket lights, using the factory headlight switch as the trigger.
That way, they're not pulling all their power through the headlight switch, causing it to run hot.
I agree 💯. A few months ago I changed the headlight switch in my son's 1990 Ranger. No wonder the lights kept cutting out; the plastic part of the switch plug was badly melted leaving exposed wiring. Very lucky it didn't cause a fire.
I should add that anyone replacing this switch needs to be cautious; it heats up fast. I did it after moving the truck from the street to the driveway, a run time of only a couple minutes, and yet the old switch was almost hot enough to burn my fingers.
I bought my same truck in my picture which is a 1993 f150 7 years ago I bought it from a guy it sat on his land in a same field for 8 years and we put a battery in it and drained the gas and put fresh gas in it and it started right up. I drove it home put new tires on it and did some maintenance and washed and cleaned it up. Been driving it ever since it has 671k miles and just keeps going my family has owned these old ford from 80’s to early 90’s and they just keep going they are bullet proof the engines where great the 300, 351, 460 were tanks of engines the 302 was okay but over 200k would have issues my dad has a 91 f250 with a 351 had 437k before it needed rebuilt, uncle had a 88 f350 with a 460 had 534k. These old fords were made to last!
@@Garydasnaill I’ve never had good experience with the EFI 351 motors, Ford cut a lot of corners when designing it and it had a lot of problems. The 302 was much better but still not great, 460 was awesome but just got terrible mileage. And obviously the 300, which doesn’t need anything except half a quart of oil and some fuel and will run forever lol.
@@GasGuzler I’ve had good experience with 351w both I owned made it to 440k with no problems dad and uncles had the same experience
This channel is hilarious. Good work, love the editing
I have a ‘93 F150 5.0 my grandpa bought new and left to me. You have inspired me to restore it and have provided so much knowledge how on how to do it!
Have fun. Had my first 96 for 18 years. Dug my recent 96 from two years in a field. Keep on OBS’s
I'm all for the bullet casing locks. My dad was a huge hunter and i guarantee if he were still alive he'd steal that idea for his old Chevy.
Cool project good for you! Looking forward to watching more videos
The amount of knowledge you possess with these trucks is pretty wild man. It shows how much you love em.
I have a question for ya; I got a 94 flairside truck, are the AODE and 4R70W interchangeable?
@@theleh I’m not entirely sure, the transmissions are kind of complicated on these trucks. I know for a fact you can’t put a transmission in from a different year because it won’t work with the computer. The 4R70W is an updated version of the AODE, however the AODE was used in trucks I believe 93 and older, where the 4R70W was introduced in 94. They also have different internals due to redesign, so I would guess that they are not interchangeable. What you would need in order to do a swap though is get the transmission of choice, and find a computer for a 302 (assuming that’s the engine you have) that had the same transmission as the one you want to swap in, and out of the same year of that transmission. In all honesty, it might be easier to just buy a whole truck as a donor for the drivetrain that you want, it’s near impossible finding a computer with all the options you want. Currently in that situation trying to find an E4OD computer for mine.
@GasGuzler That was the answer I was most afraid of, but knew was coming. Ford had a real knack for making 10 different transmissions for 1 style of truck lol. Might be stuck rebuilding this aode, I thought it was weird to see it in a 94 as well, but who knows. I appreciate ya, hope you find your ecu soon 🤘🤘
Super cool to see someone from ct! Nice work man definitely got another subscriber!
@@zacharycalvert558 Thanks man!
And a truck from Mass! Dealer sticker says Balise which is in my home town!
It's like watching my younger self all over again, only working on a 1975 Maverick.
I have a 1993 F150 XL 35k original miles. Bought as a project truck. But I did a radiator thermostat and water pump and topped off coolant and she runs too good. So I acquired a 1996 F150 that sat on my dad's farm for years. Well this one is actually a project. You've inspired me to make a video to document this adventure.
Heck yeah man, glad I could inspire you!
@@GasGuzler I love seeing guys like us bring these trucks back to life
Those era ford power steering pumps will spray out fluid if you turn the wheels while the truck isn't running
Not just FORD. I've got a 96 Dodge with a Saginaw pump and it does the same thing.
Those door locks are sick
Unsure if you'll see this, but whenever you're using any kind of saw or impact driver, please use earplugs. It's a fantastic habit to have, and you can use the kind that rest on your neck and you can just place them in your ears when you need them. It'll do you a lot of good.
First of all its a beater so who cares but yeah, next time you need to weld some rusty spot pass over it with a grinder (or sand paper) to get some clean metal. Will weld way easier and sturdier.
Paint, dirt, and rust all contaminate welds and weaken them.
Cool video! I daily my 1993 F-250 with the factory turbo'd IDI and a 5 speed. Nice looking trucks!
I had a 1994 I bought almost new in 1995. I kick myself in the butt most everyday for not keeping it…. They were built like a tank compared to the new ones that are being built today!
This video is better than most of the middle aged guys trying to Derek from VGG. Keep up with it, you’re gonna make it on here for sure.
@@saldelacruz3580 Thanks man, means a lot!
Great work young fella.
I have one of these trucks. Youre giving me some good ideas. Thank you.
Educational video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I look forward to the next one.
Those door locks were genius
I love these trucks I want a Diesel one sooo bad and I have no use for it. Just remind me of my childhood learning to drive.
😂😂😂... Those Goodyear tires are "Standard Issue " for OBS Fords...I got some on my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck XLT Extended cab....Had a 1994 Ford f150...Same tires on it as well...
@@ToyManFlyer1100 Yup, I see them over and over again, I’m pretty sure those were the tires they put on the trucks when they were brand new.
@@GasGuzler ... prolly right...Plus, those are the only tires I see will fit the factory originals rims...Unless you go with Aftermarket rims...Used to be under a $100.00/tire at Wallyworld...Now, 'bout a $110.00 , I think...
I have a 95 xlt and I learned a lot from this. thanks
@@jimgraham4673 Glad I could help!
Love these trucks. I have had a few and my property even came with one. But dang they are not comfortable when you are tall. Your knees are pretty much just in the dash when you are trying to drive. Can't really use the blinkers. Still love em though.
@@coltonkruse2313 I’m 5’6” so it’s never really been an issue for me lol, but they’re definitely small compared to newer trucks!
Great job, dude! I subscribed!
those shell casing doorlocks are sick
@ 14:30 Oh dear god...... i remember working on a radio and thinking that
Check that radiator support where it mounts to the frame. Replaced mine ; many rot out here. Replaced mine for about $250. Get the long bolts from the junk yard a set is $100+
@@donaldfrederick1557 So weirdly enough mine has a ton of rust especially around the mounts, but the actual structure inside of the support that bolts to the frame is completely solid. I’ll most likely replace it in the future as the tree crushed a pretty big portion of it but I’m going to run it for now.
That slot in the gauge cluster is a handle so it doesn’t fly across the garage when angry 😂
While you are in the door you should fix the door handle as well with the cp fix.
"outline D" means it has overdrive with a gear ratio greater than 1:1. great for highway use.
Loving these videos on the beater
The empty ribbon wires were for the fuel slosh module. They may have been for broncos only
Great Video man really love your content
@@Ford-z2w Thanks man!
@@GasGuzler No problem Ford For Lifeeee
Looking good man! Where did you get your windshield replaced? I can’t find one for mine .. thank you
@@wax2thefuture647 Thanks man! I had gotten mine done through a local glass replacement business, but I’d check through Safelite.
That empty spot in the instrument cluster is likely for diesel glow plug or wait to start indication
Fun video. Keep them coming
Wow, Ford OBS, craftsman toolbox, can-do attitude! We related or something!? lol, great video! Sub’d!
@@Wood-gd9tc Thanks man!
Watched the whole thing. Good vid.
God That Welding Was Painful Lmaoo
@@cprooks When I stepped back and looked at it all together, all I said to myself was “Jesus Christ that’s terrible” 😂😂
@@GasGuzler I haven’t welded and can’t wait to butcher the first couple things I try lmao
It’s ok. The more one does anything, the better one gets. Have the courage to start.
@@GasGuzler Your welds were too cold, bump up the heat by 5-10 amps.
@@GasGuzler welder here. it was pretty obvious your wirefeed speed wasnt high enough, it happens to the best of us. as a general rule theres recommended settings inside the welder flap of the machine. its not perfect but you can use it as a baseline. mig is supposed to sound similar to frying bacon when its done correctly, also cleaning up the base material beforehand will only help. you had some free sheet metal lying around so i wouldve done a couple test runs on that before welding the tailgate. if you still wanna do better, jody on weldingtipsandtricks here on youtube has a million videos explaining how to weld. hope this helps.
today we learned pb blaster is infact highly flamable👍
@@cameronleask9447 😂😂
Awesome video bud!
The timing of some of these shots seem like jokes but my god if it works. It works. Don’t knock good ol fashioned brute force
You never drag the puddle when welding with flux core. If that is what your using? Always push the puddle if you can.
Thanks for the good show.
My first car was a 1000$ Hyundai Elantra. I miss not having to worry about scratches in the paint
@@youngrumandcoke My exact thoughts with this truck. I can have fun with it and not worry about a scratch here and there.
6:32 nice god awful cuts
Try fixing the psom on the back of the speedo, there’s 2 capacitors that leak and need to be replaced, same with the ecu/ecm and can fix running issues
I went full liquid nails,scrap metal and steel pop rivets with my tailgate
Just a slight correction, the C6 is actually a 4 speed auto, not 3. you have 1st, 2nd, Drive(3rd) then Overdrive(4th), just like with the AODEs, however with some shifting you could select 3rd with the AODEs. The 3 speeds ford autos you are probably think of are the C3 or C5s. To put it simply, at least for these years, if you have overdrive in a ford automatic, it's 4 a speed, if it does not, it's just a 3 speed.
Also if you have one for the 302/351, you have a transmission worth it's weight in gold (at least it's bell housing) and are extremely hard to find, just because it uses a different bell housing compared to a normal C6 for the 400/460 (and ford didn't make a lot of them for 302/351). The nice thing is the guts are mostly interchangeable.
Put 3 inch pipe, 3 inch in 3 inch out flowmaster delta flow muffler with 3 inch tip, high flow cat
@@eliswalley6088 I honestly want to do either a 3 or 4 inch cat back straight pipe and give it a sorta diesel sound since it’s an inline 6.
No cat. High flow cats are pointless
Good content. Nice truck!
I re,ember back in the. 90s when those XLT tail gates were really popular with thieves.
I started dying when the power steering starte leaking 😆
Love that truck! Where do you find something like that for cheap? In my area (Utah) that thing would go for like 7 grand AT LEAST
@@mathisve I live up in New England, everything up here is priced ridiculously. I just happened to come across this truck on Facebook Marketplace in Massachusetts and immediately went to grab it. Every now and then you’ll find a really good deal, but I think the ridiculous prices are a normal thing no matter where you live.
Hey don’t change your 3rd break light to LED because for some reason it’s related to your transmission
I liked watching you work but I would have liked to see how to remove a headliner.
What's the setting on that welder? Just a 120v welder? .030 wire? Flux or gas shielded? Just by sight, it seems like your are too cold on volts and too fast wire feed.
I only showed about a minute of the welding but I was out there for about 2 hours trying to play around with it. It’s my dad’s welder, it’s an ancient Miller I’m not sure what the specs on it are. That welder has never worked properly the whole time he’s owned it for the last 15 years though, I tried going hotter and slowing wire speed and nothing was working to make the welds stick, it wound up burning right through the tailgate but still wasn’t sticking so I just welded what I could and shot self tappers through the rest of it.
Compared to my non-existent welding skills, those are dimes.
I have the same truck, only in the 93 in a V8 flavor. The one part no one seems to have is the mirror remote control switch. I've three different brands and no of them work correctly.
Make sure you have a good ground for welding also wire speed looked a little slow. I don’t know what you’re setting were so I can’t say exactly what.
Great video very interesting. Great old trucks.
weird question but what are the khaki pants youre wearing?
Pretty sure those are Carhartt brand.
What was wrong with the donor tailgates that you used the parts from. if they are solid, I would use that and just repaint it white versus dealing with welding a rusted tailgate. Just my opinion
At 24:30 Did you really say Outline D and then Regular D? Made me laugh I know you mean Overdrive and Drive. Great video i did enjoy it
@@bthompson101202 Yes lol, I know that they mean Drive and Overdrive. I’ve learned that a lot of the demographic of my viewers are people who don’t know much about cars, so I try to use simple terms to help get the message across.
Good stuff Sam
A little bit a spray on that tailgate hardware would go a long way
I love your OBS videos, but maybe slow down, show me more details. Either way you are Good.
Hey I have a 1996 f150 and the bullet ideas are cool as he'll for the locks what size bullet you use ?? Thanks and the little black pice what was that ??
I used 308 shells and the black plastic parts were just the original lock knobs, I pressed them into the casings and they fit almost perfectly.
@@GasGuzler thank you I appreciate you for responding thanks
Subscribed. Greetings from Iowa.
Manual hubs are awesome