the process...making a stitching pony
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- This was a pretty time consuming process, but the end result is actually something that I can use for a long time. This stitching pony can be made using simple tools but I used my cnc. Here are the specs for the stuff I used:
18mm plywood. (It can be made using any thickness plywood)
Leather for protection
6mm treaded rod: geni.us/5fO21X (Amazon)
6mm insert nut: geni.us/iF4sRf (Amazon)
M6 bolt 1x55mm 1x80mm
M10 bolt - 110mm
M10 nut
M10 lock nut
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It’s great to see design iterations, thanks
Glad you like it!
I find your channel interesting and your style pleasant and calming.
Thank you! Appreciate it
Like your honesty 👍😊
Thank you 😊
Agreed totally about the process taking time trying to troubleshoot in advance and avoid mistakes. I just spent 3 days making something and when I used it found a really basic mistake, but this led to a better solution.
Now I am making a new pony to replace one I made years ago that has worn out. It is a similar design to the one in this video. One thing I will change is the jaw tightening mechanism, because the changing angle of the forces against the bolt make the clamping inefficient. I'm thinking of using a small slot and some round bar with a threaded hole, so that the mechanism can pivot for more efficient clamping. This of course might or might not work out to be an improvement.
That's what I was thinking to also but I don't think I can easily find some round bar with a threaded hole. So I'm thinking of an insert nut inside wood round bar. I think in the original one it may be a round wood bar or a wood paste bar with a threaded hole because many people say their stitching won't close anymore or the system don't work anymore where it was most used probably because of the wear out. Others simply break. Or maybe they just used a simple nut inside a slot and after a long time the wear out makes the slot bigger and the system can't work anymore.
His stitching pony is gonna last 6 months like most of brands who sell this model. Lots of videos on RUclips of broken Dream Factory ones or other brands. It seems from what I saw on RUclips Dream Factory has improved their last model but I'm not sure.
The solution is very simple :
1. a round head cover nut, a t nut or any nuts, you drill hole slightly bigger so the nut can rotate up and down just a bit and you add a washer ( or not, depending on your nut size ). The high tension spring going in both directions will keep the nut in its hole while allowing you to screw and unscrew the handle.
2. if you read until here good ;) now the best and so easy solution. As said, before gluing the two middle plywood pieces drill a hole on each piece on opposite direction for the slot and no need to bother threading a hole in a round bar... when you can find anywhere barrel nuts at all sizes !
The meaning of sentence "I did it the way I like it." was revealed later on in the video: Twice ;). Just kidding, end result looks really nice and functional.
One tip for cutting threaded rods: Put a nut on both sides of the cut. Once you have cut the rod, do some initial cleaning with file if needed and then unscrew the nut and it will clean the threads on the rough, freshly cut end. To make it easier, insert THREE nuts per side. One closest to the cut will do the cleaning and two further away can be tightened against each other and that way you'll have something to hold on to while unscrewing the first nut.
Man! That is a super useful tip! Thanks!
Honestly, you’ll save yourself many headaches if you do a very rough foamcore prototype. You’ll hit your snags with the foam before you execute in wood or ply. As far as the look of the clamp bolt, take a look at self leveling furniture feet.
Your original insert nut is meant to be inserted on the “outside” of the work piece so the bolt pulls the nut “through” the wood. The alternate nut insert works good but it wasn’t really needed. Nice project overall.
I did this a few years ago and also on the Xcarve …and a popular brand called me out on Instagram and said it was a fake product and blocked me from seeing their account 😳. I never said it was their product and I also mentioned that it was inspired on several designs I saw in the internet. Don’t even know if theirs are the original. Also was made for me, not to sell…
desearia saber donde adquirir las plantillas para poder hacer la pinza gracias
Hey there, I’m a big fan of your channel and your podcast! I’ve been wanting to make a stitching pony for a while and your video was immensely helpful. Instead of making suggestions, I’ll just say that if I were making it, here’s how I’d do it differently. For the clamp on the bottom, I would replace the plain nut with a free-spinning washer nut. Just thread it on with the washer facing the surface you clamp it to, and maybe add a bit of leather to the washer so it doesn’t mar anything. I don’t know how much clamping pressure one needs on a stitching pony, but it could be increased by moving the captive nut(the threaded insert that you replaced the tee-nut with) to the outside of the jaw. It would make for a simpler pattern for others to follow, as well as providing room for a beefier table clamp. Again, I quite enjoyed your video and the project itself, and I look forward to seeing more! Thank you for sharing!!
Hi! And thanks for letting me know, I appreciate it. Good advice on the free spinning nut - I'll actually try that instead.
Hey, I purchased the design on Gumroad. I don’t see any dimensions though. Could you also inform me if you have made any changes since you initially made the stitching pony
Nice idea, the folding pony :-)
Only my advice:
1. The device seems (to me) too high to have a (long lasting) comfortable position from a "normal" eating table. Hence the jaws are too "long". Or the chair is to low :-)
2. The threaded hooked nut could be replaced by a piece of round stainless steel bar, drilled and threaded, in a round hole on the opposite side of the pony, which would allow the jaw to function without contraint. This would need a whole through drilling, of course, and a longer screw, but (IMHO), it would be more functional.
Nice realisation, and interesting CNC job, thanks!
Thanks! The pony can be adjusted/titled to a suitable position - you just have to move further from the table. :) I was going to do that with the threaded bar but I didn't want it sticking out the other side because of esthetics mainly but you are definitely right!
That's how I plane to do mine. I can't get a drilled and threaded bar so I will use a dowel nut. I don't understand why it would need a whole through drilling, what's the point ? Also I don't get why the screw should be longer. Can you explain ?
@@Stavroguine826 The goal is to insure a firm grip, that is from the outside of the pony: the nut and this round bar. Hence the screw must be longer, as it goes all through both parts of the jaws. Moreover, the round bar allows more "liberty" (= less tension) to the screw, as it can revolve in its location when you open and close the pony jaws.
I made my stitching pony using a rotating round bar with a threaded hole instead of an insert nut. I drilled two 1cm deep holes across the 2 inside faces of the 2 center plywood pieces to create a space for my 2cm long round bar. Then a front hole to screw the threaded bar and I glued the two pieces of wood. My round bar is located in the central part bump of the pony stitching pony (where his insert nut is glued). I didn't need a longer bar. If you choose to drill both jaws, then you need a longer bar of course but you also have to change the design and remove this bump. Then it's not just a modification or an improvement of this model but a different type of pony as it exists already. As for the nut, I guess you're talking about the nut inside the wood handle...whatever...
@@Stavroguine826 Indeed, this is a different system. The drilled and threaded round bar prevents tension when tightening the nut.
And yes, drilling the two jaws, in my idea, so that the stress is exerted from the outside.
Thanks for the description of your clamp 🙂
Hi, I've almost finished making the exact copy of the Dream Work pony. I just need attach the table clamp. Anyone knows if for the small handle to block to pony in position you need 1 insert on both legs of the pony ( 1 on left leg and 1 right leg ) or the handle just enter in a hole, go through the clamp and end up in 1 insert nut ?
Thanks
Villhöver!
The problem with all these types of designs is the side tightening screw. When using them, my thread catches on the big knob. It kills the flow of stitching. I have yet to see a design where the spring/tightener is out of the way. A fun puzzle but I have no solution right now.
That is indeed a bit of an issue. If I find a solution to it I'll definitely post it.
@@TheSwedishMaker One of my ideas is for the actual jaws to be forward, sweeping away from my body. That would be where the 'tightening' screw would be. 8 inches beyond the leather work. That would attach to my bench somehow. Nothing under the leather being stitched to catch the thread. The other idea is that the tightener is between the jaws and extend down, out of the way. Nothing on the outside to catch the thread.
@@bbrachman another solution could be to have a polished dome/cone shaped tightening knob
What about installing/mounting some sort of bow over the clamping knob, or a part of a bow (under the knob), which would allow the thread to slide over and not get caught under the knob?
@@merlinch4256 I actually thought of this. Any design I came up with that would swing away (so I could get to the knob) has a corner or two to catch the thread. The best design would be to have the knob inside the two jaws.
Hitta din RUclips kanal och gillar att följa den .
Har en fråga bara . Vill börja med en egen hobby och undrar om du säljer de lösa trädelar Na ? Från cncn
Hej! Och tack! Roligt att du gillar det. Jag har just nu ingen möjlighet att sälja delarna dessvärre. Jag hoppas att jag kommer ha möjlighet till det längre fram.