2017 3.6L Pentastar Oil Pressure Switch
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Good ol' P06DD DTC. Replaced the oil pressure switch, spark plugs and the #3 ignition coil due to a #3 misfire DTC, which I'm fairly confident was due to the high mileage on the spark plugs, on this 3.6L Pentastar 3.6L V6. I have not had the pleasure of working on a pentastar engine this new until now. Not to mention some awesome Autel Maxidas DS808 action towards the end of the video. Check it out!!
Excellent video, meticulous attention to detail, two thumbs up, thanks for sharing
Just did this job on my 2013 Ram 3.6L Pentastar. It took me just over 4 hours to do. I tired the 1-1/16” socket, it fits but was hard to get onto the sensor because of the wires below the sensor, so I used the proper 1-1/16” oil sensor socket. The socket is much thinner and slid right on.
Also it helps to have a V fork to pull the plastic wire harness mounts out of the holes as your removing the wiring harnesses.
Nice video, thank you for the steady camera and good sound quality.
My 2017 PM has 42,000 miles on it. I've changed the ATF at 30, 000 and was considering installing a MAGNAFINE inline ATF filter.
I don't know which hose is the inlet to the ATF cooler.
Any idea?
I went to auto zone this morning I have a 15 promaster 1500 with this code but the report says I need to replace the oil pump
If I did all that I would change both sensors
Any thoughts on a PO6DE code? Would it be the same sensor?
It could be. You would have to do more testing to determine if the sensor is the cause or if the oil pump is actually producing too low of a pressure at whatever commanded stage it is at.
Awsome video thanks for the detailed info did a very good job on everything. Sucks tho just took every thing off in changed the assembly n fans in sparkplugs in my number 6 cylinder was mis fire fixed that. But when I changed fan I keep getting a code for fan Ctrl 3 code. Any help plus I guess I gotta take everything off again in change that oil switch. Lol
BAILEY well is the #3 fan running? You may not have connected something correctly. That code doesn’t have anything to do with the oil pressure switch though so unless you are getting codes related to the oil pressure system I would leave that oil pressure switch alone. I would go back and double check your work. You may just have a bad fan. I typically look for any other codes pertaining to the coolant temp sensor or cooling system codes in conjunction with that fan control circuit code.
Thanks a lot for the video. Just finished my 2020 3500 Promaster today but after I erased the code it showed up again in 10 minutes. I didn’t drive much only 5-10 minutes. Do I need to put more drive cycles and erase again?
P.s. I erased the code with the 2015 MaxiLink.
So if you did not check your actual oil pressure switch data with a diagnostic computer capable of doing so to verify that it was actually the switch causing the issue then you may have changed it in vain. If the code came back it would I indicate issues with the actual oil pump itself or at least the solenoid on the oil pump responsible for changing the pump‘a output pressure. If you have not changed your oil or oil filter in quite sometime this would more than likely be the cause of the failure.
chrism I have a 610 and I cant get it started. Has spark, yah its been sitting a while. Has all the compression .
I don't think I understand "610" but an engine is an engine is an engine. All internal combustion engines need three things to run: Air, Fuel and ignition. Spark: Great, good first place to start. Compression is good, but is it getting air? The more common failure point with engines that have sat for a long period of time: FUEL. Is it getting fuel? Is it getting enough fuel? Is it getting too much fuel? Is it getting the correct amount of Fuel pressure? Also, not sure how you checked "spark" but you must understand that even if a spark plug "sparks" outside in the atmosphere doesn't always mean it is "sparking" in the pressure of the combustion chamber. Just something to keep in mind if you feel like you're start chasing your tail. Just through a set of plugs at it, they are cheap, specially if you are getting wet plugs and everything else appears to be correct like timing for example.
Also keep in mind. It's extremely difficult to troubleshoot stuff via the internet.
Chris, I have a question for you, buddy. I have a 2019 Promaster, The same exact work needs to be done as is with yours to replace switch on mine, so I'm thinking the same engine as your 17. I have an engine light on. OBD says it's an oil pressure sensor stuck off. No oil light, steady engine light only. Yet dealer says it needs an oil pump. The engine light sometimes will go off and not come on for weeks. If I drive cold engine, it comes on. If I warm engine up 25 minutes, it goes all day no light. Do you have an opinion? It would be appreciated, before I sink over $1100 into it. Thanks.
Here’s the deal! The problem is more than likely the solenoid on the oil pump itself which controls the high output and low output of the oil pump. The only way to change this solenoid is to change the oil pump. They are not lying to you. Now if it works ok if you warm the engine up first that means that the solenoid is doing it’s job most of the time. When was the last time you had your oil changed? You may look at doing that. Or maybe if it was recently that you changed it then maybe the oil filter was installed incorrectly. Perhaps your oil is low. These are all things to check first. Otherwise the oil pump probably needs to be replaced.
What was the symptom of a bad oil pressure switch
Were is it located on the little promaster city .
thanks for the video chris. i'm getting a P06DD on my odb2 reader. Are there fancier odb2 readers that will give me more specific info? like if the sensor is bad or pressure is low?
There are a lot of OBDII code readers out there that will only do just that: read codes. There are some midrange decent code scanners out there that can show you live data but they are a little scarcer. Then there are what we in the automotive repair world have and use to troubleshoot and repair vehicles now a days called bi-directional scanners. With them we are able to get deeper into the computer, see more data, actually test computer systems, components and sensors without even taking them out of the vehicle and in a lot of case reprogram systems. For your issue you would need to look at the actual computer reported oil pressure during different stages of engine operation and compare them to actual oil pressure readings taken with a test gauge.
@@chriswalden88 thanks for the info. yeah i guess i will take it in... i can probably replace the sensor, but if that's not it, i don't want to make it worse, or have to take everything apart again.
I’m having the same issue, code p06DD and the van lacks power if I give it full throttle while driving, is this something that can be causing this problem?
It’s entirely possible. Some simple diagnostics would tell you but you would need a bidirectional scanner and an oil pressure gauge hooked up to the test port on the engine.
I changed the sensor, installed a Autozone one and I think it got worse, it smells like gas, has cams and brake booster codes, customer is mad at me thinking I did something wrong, I will install today an mopar sensor to see how it goes, I will let you know thankyou for responding
What is the mileage when you replace the sensor?
I do not remember, sorry.
The dealer said i Ned a oil pump bt it drive fine and no oil light
So what would they tell you that you need an oil pump? Do you have a check engine light with subsequent code?