Thanks for bringing us along. Cool study. I actually dislike using the continuity mode anymore because of its limitations. If I’m using an ohm meter, which is basically what the continuity tester is, I’m going to just measure the resistance of the circuit instead. I want to see that number. If I want to check for continuity I’ll use a calibrated test light because it will tell me so much more about circuit integrity. Depending on the resistance of the bulb you’re using you can make a pretty good assessment of the resistance on the circuit based on the bulb brightness. Bright bulb= close to zero ohms. dimmer bulb =close to bulbs resistance. very dim or off = higher than bulbs resistance or open. This does mean you need a half dozen different bulbs for testing tho 😂 but I think it’s so much more valuable in the feedback you’re getting.
This is why we get bad a reputation, techs are not doing basic circuit tests and fire the parts cannon. A simple understanding of why the code is setting could save a lot of money for this customer
Excellent video, thank you. Off topic question, have you used the can bus decoder feature on the Pico scope for diagnostic purposes? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Hey, thanks for the helpful video! I have the same exact code (P06DA) on my 2016 Ram Promaster 2500! I'm wondering what I can do to fix it? Is it a sensor replacement or oil pump replacement/oil pressure solenoid control , etc? The oil light comes on every now and then; oddly enough, when its on and I hit a bump, it turns off most of the time. I would say it's always on and off light! How can I go about fixing this without breaking the bank? What should I do? Would it be the oil pressure sensor or the oil sensor in the sump tank area? oil pressure solenoid control?
I would have unplugged computer, and used a power probe right on that pin to see if i could activate the solenoid. If not, and circuit breaker pops, then i know wire is shorted, or solenoid. If circuit breaker doesn’t pop, i know open circuit
Thanks for bringing us along. Cool study. I actually dislike using the continuity mode anymore because of its limitations. If I’m using an ohm meter, which is basically what the continuity tester is, I’m going to just measure the resistance of the circuit instead. I want to see that number. If I want to check for continuity I’ll use a calibrated test light because it will tell me so much more about circuit integrity. Depending on the resistance of the bulb you’re using you can make a pretty good assessment of the resistance on the circuit based on the bulb brightness. Bright bulb= close to zero ohms. dimmer bulb =close to bulbs resistance. very dim or off = higher than bulbs resistance or open. This does mean you need a half dozen different bulbs for testing tho 😂 but I think it’s so much more valuable in the feedback you’re getting.
This is why we get bad a reputation, techs are not doing basic circuit tests and fire the parts cannon. A simple understanding of why the code is setting could save a lot of money for this customer
Holy amp draw on a pressure sensor! Beautiful job!
Yeah, the PCM is sensitive . Enough To shutdown and protect Itself.
Great vid
Thank you for watching
Excellent video, thank you.
Off topic question, have you used the can bus decoder feature on the Pico scope for diagnostic purposes?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
I have not yet up to this point, but would like to mess with it more
@@DTEAuto Thank you for the reply.
Hey, thanks for the helpful video! I have the same exact code (P06DA) on my 2016 Ram Promaster 2500! I'm wondering what I can do to fix it? Is it a sensor replacement or oil pump replacement/oil pressure solenoid control , etc? The oil light comes on every now and then; oddly enough, when its on and I hit a bump, it turns off most of the time. I would say it's always on and off light!
How can I go about fixing this without breaking the bank? What should I do? Would it be the oil pressure sensor or the oil sensor in the sump tank area? oil pressure solenoid control?
if it is the same exact code, I would look at the electrical circuit for the control solenoid, not the pressure sensor
@@DTEAuto Ok will check that out. Where would that be located exactly? Also, could it be the filter causing the low pressure?
I would have unplugged computer, and used a power probe right on that pin to see if i could activate the solenoid. If not, and circuit breaker pops, then i know wire is shorted, or solenoid. If circuit breaker doesn’t pop, i know open circuit
Current limiting seen it when these module try to protect themselves when i seen 17amps and the computer not wanting to control it
Where was the short located,having the same issue?
Mine was in the harness, internally shorted together inside the shielding, by the exhaust side
Btw i love the cannon...
No it's good test if it's short to ground before the sensor
Saludos desde paraguay bendiciones ingeniero
excelente amigo...
gracias!
Good explanation
Thanks and welcome
very nice !
thank you for watching