One mistake I made was selling gear and buying new before I got the most from the old. Buying new gear will not improve your skill. Go out and shoot every day and get better with the gear you have. That's the enjoyable part of photography. Reading reviews and forums is important but know when to turn everything off and get outside!
Same. I bought a D3200 at a pawn shop without knowing anything about it. I later traded up to a D5500, even though I never really mastered the D3200, because of the Veri-Angle touch screen. Then I traded up again to a D7500, again without mastering the D5500. I love the D7500 but I did have a bit of buyers remorse because I loved the D5500 too. I sold the D5500 with the kit lens yesterday.
"Grey Market" is a name made up by 'official' sellers in their respective countries in order to force people to buy expensive, overpriced gear from them. All my camera gear since my Nikon D5200 was "Grey Market" and I never had any issues with them all, I currently own a D850 and D780 complete with scary "Grey Market" lenses. I have saved thousands of pounds in avoiding over priced camera gear.
Yeah, I dont know if this story with Nikon is true or not, but If its is its totally their BS. I would be extremely bad customer if they would told me that they wont service the lens or camera because its from different region. Im not sure that they can legally tell this to customers in EU anyway.
In Canada I've run into issues where they won't service Grey market nikon stuff .. also forfeit warranty, not worth it imo here in Canada.. I understand Eu often pays an extra premium though so may be worth it in that case, assuming you don't get a lemon.
I find it amazing that in 2021 manufacturers still get away with refusing to repair things because they were bought in a different country. As if people don't move around a lot nowadays. And it's one thing to say the warranty isn't valid in another country, but it's another to refuse to even sell the parts to a repair shop so you can't even pay to get it repaired.
German situation: Your warranty is with the seller of the goods not the manufacturer. If you bring a grey market camera to Canon CPS (like a certain Ex-coworker thst boasted about how big a dealmaker he was had to) they give you the choice "Contact the seller or pay for the repair as if the warranty has expired" If you bring a german market camera to the CPS they take over the warranty (they need to see a bill with date of service). AFTER they have accepted the camera they politely ask "why not the seller" (at least if the seller is a resonably close brick and mortar shop). That"s okay - why would one skip the seller, the CPS was a bit out of the way until recently so this might hint at problems with service quality at an official dealer. In my case - the dealer was 25km, half through a large city and in the evening. CPS was 1000m down the road during lunchbreak
You should be able to repair at your cost no matter where you bought the equipment. I live in UK, tomorrow I might move to Poland, next year in Thailand. So I can't fix camera if I am abroad? That is not right!
I have the same kit. I also use an older Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 AF too, this is comparable due to crop, to the 80mm high end Portrait/Fashion Nikkor MF that I used to use back in the day on my F3hp back in the wonderful film days.
I believe generally what they are saying are correct.....bigger sensors in average bodies are better IQ wise, and low light wise. But when you go to flagship type cameras, sensors are so excellent, like the D500, that gives you a tremendous sensor, and the advantage of length from a crop sensor, it’s really insignificant the loss of any perceived image quality over the full frame equivalent, and actually adds benefits that are more important in particular situations.
They actually say if you use full frame lense with cropped sensor, the pixel density is higher on the body. So if the lense was for 34mp on a full frame, then if you use a 20mp cropped, you are fine. But if you use something higher, you lose to sharpness. Where cropped lenses usually take this into consideration so they are generally sharper at the same price. But in your case it should be fine because it is a telephoto that won't be really sharp anyway and your camera isn't a crazy high megapixel one.
I would actually disagree with that somewhat. Learning about gear and lenses can be useful and if you got a DSLR it might be the best type of camera to learn with as it provides more options for you, more future potential. Sure you can also learn fundamentals like color balance, exposure and such on phone, but a full DSLR will make you learn way more than that.
@@chuckdavidson5483 It's not affordable.. it's preowned.. and if you really want to know what pisses me the EFF off is that it's only $300 less than a brand new one.. The thing is that with the MP they build like maybe 100 (if that) a year.When they get shipped to a store that has a waiting list of 10 people or more -yeah that shop will get 2 pieces.
I started off on film with a Pentax 35mm film camera & went to college with it. Learned printing, developing film etc. Had it for years. It hit the biscuit. I went through a bunch of point and shoot pocket digital cameras and these were early. I was never satisfied and gave up photography for a while. A few years ago I received a Nikon D3400 entry level camera as a gift from family to encourage me to get back into things. It has no wifi and no mic jack and has other limitations. However.. it has been great. I’m on a budget. I saved up to purchase two third party speedlites & controller, a 50mm 1.8 and two of my children started hockey so I picked up a 70-300 ( which is variable aperture). I watched your video on shooting in snow, spot metering, exposure compensation etc which helped with the ice surface and bad images I started to get. That fixed that issue really fast. The camera battery beats anything on the market. Most cameras get 300 shots or 500 shots, I’m doubling that. And I have more than one battery. I can go through six hockey games in a tournament and not run out of power ( that’s if the team reaches the finals). Over the last several years I’ve added soft boxes, umbrellas, continuous lighting and an external audio recorder to have better sound. Regardless of what people think of Entry level and 11 focus points, & 5 frames a second, I’m getting amazing images 24 megapixels . If I had a choice to upgrade, I’d be looking at a D7500 so I can use my lenses I own and other features I don’t have. These features have nothing to do with the image. It’s my eye and my composition and how I use the exposure triangle. I’ve watched RUclips videos .. get this, get that, oh this softbox is the best etc. Oh click the link and “ I get a commission or buy my presets “ I’m not buying the sales pitch. I could use an f:/2.8 lens fixed aperture zoom. But I’m on a budget. So I use the equipment I have and adapt. That better lens might give me an extra stop or two of light and bokeh. I’m doing just fine and I’m here to challenge that because there’s nothing wrong with my images as far as exposure goes. I look at things to either improve, motivated, or looking at something I haven’t considered photographing & how to do it. I photograph a lot of different things. Lots of fun. Love the challenge. Like to challenge myself. I like to push the limits of my equipment to get the best results I can. I’m always learning something new. I have a diploma in archives. I consider myself a documentary photographer because I am recording a moment in time, an event, people or place. There’s a story to capture. Can I do that with what the subject is projecting to me? OR do I have to use my skills to interpret that for the viewer when I press the shutter? Thanks for the video.
I wish I could add more likes to your comment. That stuff is so true for me too. My little D3500 does what I need it to do and I don't need all the bells and whistles that comes with more expensive cameras.
Still harping on about not using full frame lenses on APS-C bodies eh. Funny, my Nikon D500 doesn't seem to mind - it is a joy to use with my 300mm f/2.8 + 1.4 TC. I know many people also use the D500 with the Nikon 200 - 500mm f/5.6, both of these lenses are full frame and these combos produce the goods. Even my old AF-S 300mm f/4 D is an amazing match with the D500.
I agree! I even use my diddy Nikon z50 toy camera, connected via the ftz adapter to the 200-500 f 5.6. It certainly resolves more detail than I expected with phenomenal sharpness. Yet we were told it was a useless idea putting aps-c in a Z mount. I couldn't be happier. There's a lot of misconceptions and media hype out there. There's soon to be a ftz adapter with screw drive announced. So I think Nikon is certainly the most loyal brand out there.
@@timothylatour4977 FX lenses generally have better optics. Nikon did make a few good DX lenses, but you get better quality with FX lenses. Price wise, well the good DX lenses like the 17-55 f2.8 and 12-24 f4 are expensive too. You can also find good lenses on the used market. Especially now that Nikon’s dropped many of its f lenses. And when I buy a good used D700, I’ve got my lenses already. Best of all, I can buy DX or FX lenses.
D7500 with Sigma 35mm ART 1.4 and Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2, they work together without a problem. I am thinking to upgrade to a Z6 II, but i am not in a hurry.
A FF body will give better IQ than it’s equivalent crop body, but it has nothing to do with lens compatibility, it’s simply the FF sensor vs the smaller crop sensor. Though Tony obviously believes there’s more to it than that.
That "don't put ff lenses on crop bodies" is just for pixelpeepers. Sorry, but gradually switching to FF works for sooo many people, and the quality difference might be completely irrelevant for most people. "Image" comes from imagination, not from pixel-perfection.
Even pixelpeepers should be satisfied. I definitely would like anyone to demonstrated that FF lenses are worse on an APS-C body than an APS-C lens. It sounds rather ludicrous to me for many technical reasons.
I enjoy shooting 35mm color film. Being 21 years old and native to digital photography, I find film much more satisfying and rewarding to me. I have been doing this for about a year and one of the mistakes I made was wanting a camera that did everything. I would buy and sell over and over, looking for a camera I was truly satisfied with. It finally dawned on me that there was no camera that was going to be great at everything I wanted to shoot. So, I bought a Nikon N90 for fast moving objects with its sharp autofocus, a Canon AE-1 Program for amazing still life and macro photos, and an Olympus OM-1 for its small and lightweight body and to take more casual photos with. I also enjoy the fact that the shutter doesn't require a battery. Just realize sometimes that perfect all in one camera you may seek doesn't exist. And while, each of these cameras can do it all, they may not do it as well as others will.
There is a lot of muddy thinking about value. The concepts I am exploring are not specific to photography: they are used by fortune 500 companies to buy everything from paper clips to new buildings. A FEATURE: is a characteristic specific to a product or service, but has no inherent relationship to any specific user It can be be expressed by the phrase: "this is what we have, is it any use to you?" A BENEFIT: is specific to the potential purchaser and represents something that will either improve their performance, or mitigate a limit to their performance. This could be expressed by the line by the Spice Girls: "Tell me what you want, what you REALLY, REALLY want!" VALUE: is only achieved when you can map a feature to a benefit. So, to give an example. A camera has an ability to shoot 4k video - that's a FEATURE. However, since I don't shoot video it does not map to a benefit I need, so it has no value in my buying evaluation. The following process works: 1. Establish Your Criteria: Define BENEFITS you want, rank them in priority: MUST HAVE, Want, would be nice... 2. Research for Products: Find products that have FEATURES the match your benefits list 3. Compare and Filter: Remove any that don’t match your “must have” criteria 4. Reduce the list to 2-3. 5. Evaluate: Try out the gear with a hands-on evaluation 6. Make your purchase: Shop around for good deals from reliable vendors that support local warranties. As regards advice for camera buyers: I contribute to a couple of fora ( yes, I admit it!!! I was a professional but am now retired), and see frequent inquiries on the theme of 'what camera should I buy?' As mentioned, I inevitably see these requests with the absolute minimum of information provided (which tells you something), yet members (some very senior) respond (without further clarification) with a recommendation based on THEIR shooting situation. I resist this, and instead suggest the following questions for the potential purchaser to consider, and hopefully answer, if they want a valid response. 1. If you have camera gear, what specifically are its limitations that hold you back from taking the images you want? If they don't know, it might well serve them better to invest in education, via on-line on local courses and workshops, camera societies or for those just starting, question #5 becomes relevant... 2. What is the budget? So many people over-invest in gear that offers them no benefit (as per the above) and blow their budget, or are tempted to keeping upping the investment. They are encouraged by the GAS community, who believe that the latest iteration of gear will unleash the hitherto latent talent that lies within them. I was working with an educational facility that was conducting a series of courses on photography. Despite clear guidelines that the right camera should have controls for aperture and shutter priority, and manual and that the maximum size was 1500 pixels on the long dimension of an image, students were being persuaded to put themselves into debt to get the latest and most expensive gear. GAS is different from those who engage with the gear from a purely technical perspective as they are not necessarily seeking to leverage a photographic performance benefit. 3. What Subjects will you take: This helps to identify the types of equipment - e.g. video or not, general-purpose, travel, wildlife, portraits - all of these will give clues to the consultant about Fields of View, sensor dynamic range etc. (impacting lenses and sensors). For specific purposes, or to evaluation gear, renting equipment may be a much better solution. For that once-in-a-lifetime trip to the Masai Mara to shoot the great migration, not having to invest in a suitable super tele lens, transport it to Africa, use it and return it may not be the best solution: especially if one is not likely to need that type of gear again. Many such travel companies can arrange renting of gear at the location of the shoot, thus reducing investment and risk. 4. What Will you PRODUCE: I rarely see this question asked, yet it is arguably the MOST significant question! It takes a lot greater investment to provide the gear for high end Art (with a capital A), large, hi-res prints, than for social media sites that are likely to downsize images or digital displays. In the end, the final output is what it is all about. For those looking at part-time professional work, the challenge is balancing an often limited budget with a need to be able to provide images in the event of unexpected situations or gear failure. 5. What are your intentions: People take photos for a huge range of reasons: from purely social and casual photography: where the priority is not the taking of images, but the engagement. Parents with kids, school events, social events. Then there are students in photography who likely have limited budgets and are yet to confirm their specific career and gear choices. Enthusiasts who may be engaged in competition for example, and finally professionals for whom the camera is a tool to produce products or services (although they are unlikely to be engaging in this process). Each of these perspectives will have a different value-set and priority, and establishing those can make a huge difference. When looking at a long-term engagement, the gear as a system is worth considering, as changing brands can be an expensive process... 6. What are you prepared to carry: Depending upon the activity, large and heavy gear may not be appropriate. For example: for travel, one may want more compact and lighter gear to reduce risks during transit and offer more convenience. Multi-day hikers may well choose a similar type of gear as it has to compete with hiking equipment in the pack but may also have to be more rugged. As we age, or have injuries, less is often more. In the end the best camera is the one you are prepared to carry with you. 7. Ergonomics and Interface: Simply looking at specs and reviews does not offer the experience of manipulating the controls and menus of a camera. I have seen people pay out significant sums for gear and then hate how it feels and operates in the hands. They either have to sell it and get something else (at a cost), or suck it up and get used to the limitations.
Trevor Thanks very much for sharing your experience. I'm 55, a Master Plumber, and have been scouring multiple sources for information for my first camera, lens, and accessories purchase. I'd like to do general photography and video of friends and family, landscape with sunsets over lakes, and some wildlife including hummingbirds. Luckily, I've had the time to read and watch hours of RUclips videos and read multiple fora (yes, 4 years of H. S. and 2 yrs of university Latin!). Unlucky is that I had the time from two cancer surgeries (all is well) and spine fusion surgery (meh), all in 2021! All of your thoughts are spot on. Many people buy with their emotions, and decisions based on emotions are usually not wise. This advice can be used not only for camera purchases, but for anything, even regular, everyday decisions. I've taught many Apprentices in my career who love GAS. Good quality tools are important, but the skills behind them are what's important. Like they say in shooting pool: It's not the stick, it's the shooter! Going to try and get in touch with you on your Channel. Thanks
Good discussion. With due respect, two big issues I had with professional reviewers when I was upgrading from my D750: 1 - Pro reviewers don’t give nearly enough weight to the cost of changing brand systems. The Sony xxxx might be superior to the Nikon yyyy is some areas, but most people with a big investment in lenses won’t see that improvement as worth a wholesale change. 2 - For my work as a non-vlogger, I really don’t care if the Sony/Fuji has a flip screen and the Nikon does not. I’ll almost never need it even if a vlogger thinks it’s indispensable.
Oh yes this second thing happens way too much. So many of the reviews are from vloggers or streamers and they only focus on their own personal use-case! It's frustrating and not so audience friendly. I like about Tony and Chelsea that they buck this trend and frequently talk about "what works for you" and the different ways things are used in different situations. I wish there was more of that.
That’s why you should buy for the glass. I shoot Canon because I researched and bout a lot of Vintage EF L lenses. It might not be as sharp as other lenses but the unique look makes my photos stand Out. EF135 f2 is one gem.
Tamron service is great! I have a 15-30mm f/2.8 (old model) and they updated the firmware so it would work with the Nikon Z-mount adapter (FTZ). All it cost was shipping and I am very happy with it.
I always buy used gear and if I don't get on with it I'll sell it on, usually for about the same money. That way I get my gear fix on the cheap. By the way, my favourite combo is the D500 with the 200-500mm so mixing fx and dx isn't a problem for me. Good vid though guys
This is the way....also, If you buy from boomers with too much money they tend to buy from autosized dealers, and you avoid the grey market situation as well.
My strategy for looking through reviews is to look for similar negative reviews. If one person says the lens has slow AF then maybe that was user error or they got a malfunctioning lens or something. If a dozen people say the lens has slow AF, maybe it has slow AF. Almost every product has positive reviews if it has enough reviews, and positive reviews don't often get specific.
The problem with 5 star reviews is that people often make them right away with no time to find the little problems. Unless they say something like "After using it every weekend for a year" you have to take reviews with a grain of salt.
Yes I am a negative review reader too. Same as you, I look for consistency. When Amazon used to let you comment on reviews the negative reviews got lots of haters. I want to thank all of you out there that leave negative reviews. Even if I don't agree, I don't take it as a personal affront if you don't like my favorite gear.
I have bought a lot of gear used online and I can knock on wood say I have never had an issue with a single item. The one thing I have done on every occasion is get to know the user of the gear who is selling it. most of the gear has been expensive bodies and lenses so its my expectation that the user is a practicing photographer. Red flags are people selling expensive gear who wouldn't know a F stop if it hit them in the face. I have asked to see their Instagram page to see if they have work they produced with the gear. I think this has saved me from buying something that is questionable or even worse could be a fraud.
Well. It really depends. I mean you can get parts from grey market as well. And if one is a DIY guy, it's not that difficult to just do the repair by yourself. I bought a a6000 which ended up being broken when it arrived. No worry, I just tore it apart and found out that it was the sensor and shutter both which were not working since someone had let salty water in from the bayonet. I ordered new parts from ebay, washed the existing parts in bathroom sink from the salt residue, put it together and I have had it for 4 years now and it's still kickin'. And not only I have a functioning camera, I also have a fun story to tell. And the knowhow to fix it again.
Actually disagreeing with you, for once, and strongly, on 3rd party batteries. I too used to hate, for instance, Wasabi batteries for Sony mirrorless. After a couple years of swearing by only Sony batteries, decided to try Rav Power batteries. They’ve outperformed Sony, even after 20x the charge cycles of the OEM.
I've had great luck with Rav Power in both my Sony a6000s and my Canon 6D and 7D. I've found the Tamron FF 24-70/f 2.8 and 70-200/f2.8. The 70-200 does a pretty good job on the Canon 7D.
Not sure that the battery thing is as bad as they are saying today....maybe several years ago....sure,...but nowadays the cheap terrible batteries of yesteryear have been shunned, that now third party battery manufacturers are producing better equivalents and trying to promote their own name, and can’t do that if they produce junk. The price of aftermarket batteries have risen somewhat because good batteries cost more to produce then cheap junk batteries. Check reviews, and unless you get an individual clunker, they seem to be a quite adequate replacement to OE batteries.
I have had MANY bad experiences with 3rd party batteries, Wasabi included (one that swelled to the point of being stuck in the camera). Life-time decreasing severely with use... etc. ...
screw that, in life do not skimp on expenses with anything to do with batteries , power cables, chargers, power adapters and shoes. It is not worth it,.
Tony and Chelsea, I just wanna say that I love your videos. You guys put so much work into them and you passion really shines right through. I'm a new photographer and still have much to learn, but I have gained so much from your videos and podcasts. Keep up the good work!!
My experience which shocked and annoyed me. I'm a duffer who had been away from photography for years. Had a Canon AE-1 whihc was not a pro-body but, drop down a flight of stairs, take pictures in a hurricane, drop in the toilet (kidding on the last one, but you get the point) and it worked! When I got back into photography, the loose definition of "weather-proof" shocked me. Bought a crop sensor Rebel, worked for about a year, and then there was a slight mist... got it fixed, got it fixed again - figured it was a lemon and bought a newer "low" price Rebel T6i - same thing in a matter of months! Not a knock on Canon, just a knock on me for not knowing what the current definition of "weather-proof" is. An expensive lesson in the "death by 1000 cuts" type of way; bodies and repairs at reasonable prices added up to the cost of a pro-level full frame.
About the 3rd party battery talk: I've found PowerExtra to make great replacement batteries. I have 8 of their LP-E6 ones and 2 of them are now 4 years old and still going just a strong as the Canon ones.
For me, PowerExtra is okay for the money - I have found it to be 65-75% of the performance for 25% of the cost! I use PowerExtra batts for non-client work all the time, and use OEM for when it matters. For the money, there’s nothing wrong with having a bag full of PowerExtra LP-E6 spares! I have had less success with Kastar and BM LP-E6 which tended to have around 50% or less of the performance, although BM’s LP-E6nh version is much better and gives you high frame rate+ performance on the R5 and R6 for 60-100% battery levels.
I usually just get a battery bank and USB in and that adds a lot more power I usually carry 1-3 10,000 milliamp batteries That gives most hand held cameras between 3-6 extra hours of battery life
@@Gregorioux I agree with external batteries and banks as long as you can securely rig it up or have the camera more or less stationary. On canon mirrorless unfortunately, the power delivery to USB-C requirements are quite specific and high wattage, plus the fact that some photogs prefer the ergonomics, water resistance and ruggedness of not having any tethers or cables plugged in. I personally would be fearful of breaking a port or losing power at a critical moment, especially since I run and gun events and shoot and change rapidly between 2-3 bodies.
@@mxilplict I mean Having a cable hanging off your camera or pocket is suboptimal But I do agree Breaking ports and loosing weather resistance is definitely a caveat, Though sometimes you can only do $20-30 and that can get you 2-4 times more recording time/power than an extra battery or two, especially the name brand ones Like anything, you’re right there’s pros and cons And sometimes you end up paying more for the cheaper option
@@mxilplict I've done a few tests myself over the years because I've been wary of third party batteries too. I've tried a bunch of different brands, no name white label ones, Wassabie Power, Power Extra, even the Duracell ones, etc. Ultimately at the end of the day the OEM batteries from the camera manufacturer will most likely be the best bet in the long run, but the results I've gotten from PowerExtra have been very competitive compared to the OEM and miles better than all the other 3rd party ones. Out of the box, in a side by side test with a brand new LP-E6 from Canon and an LP-E6 from PowerExtra, in two EOS R's recording 4K24p, the PowerExtra gets about 15-20 minutes longer runtime than the Canon. For my 2 Power Extra ones that are 4 years old, compared to my Canon ones that are 4 years old, the Canons only beat them by 10 minutes. Long story short, with those results being within margin of error, I'd rather have 8 of the PowerExtra batteries in my bag than 3 of the Canon for the same price. I'm waiting for one of them to die so I can crack it open to see what kind of cells they are using, I know Canon uses Panasonic cells, I wouldn't be surprised if PowerExtra is also using Panasonic cells, or Samsung, or Sony. Either way, I believe they are reliable enough to use professionally. I'm a DP and I work in reality television, I have a rule on set that we change batteries at the first chance we get once they dip below 50%. Thats not because I'm worried about a battery dying unexpectedly its because I always want my camera guys to have enough juice to keep going if we're caught in a mission critical moment.
Great vid and some really excellent advice. The only point I’d debate is FF lenses on APS bodies. Certainly I’ve found the D500 with a 300PF with a 1.4TC or a 200-500mm Nikon lens works brilliantly. Maybe these are the exceptions rather than the rul?
I think they are correct with average consumer body’s between FF and crop......but flagships like D500 with great sensors and processors, and added reach, it’s a mute point.
I totally agree. I would like anyone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality should be better as the camera is only using the center of the circle of light.
Yes, "exception". Typical examples of "FF lens on APS C being a bad idea" would be my Sigma 14/3.5 or 24/1.8 or buying an expensive bulky wide FF zoom instead of a significantly cheaper APS counterpart, like a good kit zoom or a 12-24/4, that could still take pictures while you are saving up for 2nd & 3rd FF bodies. 50mm and up FF lenses might be OK (I'm happy with mine but didn't invest in high res crop bodies. Mediocre glass on FF seemed more appealing.)
The Canon EOS R and RP is my backup camera. This duo has worked so well for me in my business. When the R5 & R6 came out, I felt like there was no need for me to upgrade to those cameras when my current two were completely fine. I won’t make anymore money using those cameras. I invested in the RF glass instead.
APS-C bodies only with APS-C lenses otherwise the quality is degraded? Sorry I have to write it but this is a complete nonsense without any technical reasons or explanations. Before swithing to fullframe years ago, I was using bunch of FF lenses on a Canon APS-C cameras. 50/1.4, 85/1.4, 135/2.0 and from the technical point of view I had great pictures with them. The only limitations were the resolution capabilities of each glass vs pixel pitch and AA filter strength of each particular sensor. And some of the flaws of FF lenses were even less noticeable on the APS-C than on the FF - such as vigneting, corner distortions, PF and CA. You should realize that lens do not know what sensor size is behind them and they just perform as they perform. No matter if they draw a picture on APS-C or FF. Of course APS-C naturally tend to have smaller pixel sizes when compared to the same resolution FF but is an issue of the sensor not the lens or sensor size.
I totally agree about using FF on a APS-C body. The opinion stated in the video sounds quite unfounded to me. I would like someone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of the ultimate result, image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality with an FF lens should be better as the APS-C camera is only using the center of the circle of light). The vast majority of lenses are designed and built for the same resolution whether FF or APS-C. In fact APS-C cameras only use the center of FF lenses' circle of light, as a consequence they have almost no vignetting and better corner resolution at wide apertures.
I was taken in by the beautiful Fuji bodies and lenses. I was a Canon user with EOS Pro bodies and L glass. Canon was not in the mirrorless market. I bought an pair of XT-3 bodies, a holy trinity set of glass plus a couple of primes and the 100-400 as well as some Fuji flashes. I just didn’t love it. The images could be amazing but I never felt the Fuji was a seamless extension of myself. I was always fussing with the controls and the wonky menu system. I continued to use my Canon gear too and almost always used it for paid event photography. On a whim, I picked up Canon RP with the RF 24-105 f4L. I knew in an instant I was going to remain a Canon shooter and more specifically, a Canon Mirrorless shooter. Right after the R6 and R5 were released, I did a complete swap of the Fuji gear, Canon DSLRs and almost all of the Canon EF glass keeping just the 200 f2 and the 400 f4 DO II. I couldn’t be happier. However my bank account took a bit of a hit with my sidestep to Fuji.
Great story of matching your technical needs with your emotional sensibilities with your gear. If you play golf you know the feeling you get standing over the ball with a particular brand of club vs another brand. (I get that warm feeling with Taylor Made gear, but others get it with Ping or Titleist or something else. I can't hit a Ping club to save my life!). That feeling of the gear being an extension of yourself is priceless.
I use third-party batterys for a long time with my Sony A6600. Of course they have only around 80% of the capacity. But they work for a long time and 2 batterys costs a third of one original battery. And they put a charger on top of the package which works very reliable.
Yes, I would prefer to have a half-dozen 3rd party batteries that have 50% capacity than two OEM batteries. It's also why I buy cheap MicroCenter SD cards -- I'm not shooting the Super Bowl from the end zone with a 30 fps camera, so they suit me just fine. Again, every photographer has different needs and priorities, and purchase decisions should be based on those. If you are a loyal watcher of T and C, you know that their advice varies over time (kind of like Fauci's advice) 😊
Most folks that buy a low end body don’t buy high end glass . Usually FF glass is phenomenal on apsc bodies because you get the best part of the lens quality within the apsc circle of light but not always. And I now realize on the Micro four thirds with the metabones adapter why we are getting flaring . Thanks for that tip .
I totally agree about using FF on a APS-C body. The opinion stated in the video sounds quite unfounded to me. I would like someone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality should be better as the camera is only using the center of the circle of light.
@@BrunoChalifour if we are talking 50 & 100mm macro lenses, yes they are great. If you want an APS wide, the FF lens will be super wide, catch light sources you don't see in your view finder and flare and its maker sacrificed resolution for image circle. The latter is a bearable compromise on a low resolution FF sensor but not on high res APS. Try it out or dive into DxO mark's PMP ratings. I own no Pentax / k-mount FF wide, that would shine on APS. Even the ZM 21/2.8 doesn't really impress me on APS-H. If you want to enjoy a cheap old 70-300 film zoom, better get an early FF beater to go with it.
yup, I've done that too on Fujifilm. Just recently made the first purchase towards a fully autofocused lens lineup, though I'll probably buy the Viltrox 1.4s instead of the Fujis because they're still too expensive for me anyway
I only buy manual focus lens, usually Nikon, with this pattern: When buying lens on Ebay, make sure the buyer commits to clean aperture, smooth focus (and Zoom), no scratches, haze, fungus or balsam separation. Send the seller a message if it's not clear in the ad and make sure you get a message in Ebay, not email. The main sellers from Japan will always state this. Never rely on photos for optics quality. If the lens you receive does not match what the seller stated, you can return it, and do so at the sellers expense, regardless of what their ad says. You may have to file a buyers complaint with Ebay, but if you are reasonable, you will win. What I often do when I receive a problem lens is take the high value of the lens if it had been freshly CLA'd, subtract what I suspect a CLA will cost, and then offer to buy at that price. If the seller offers an appropriate refund, I'll then have the lens CLA'd and end up with a lens that should last a long time. If there was a problem with a modern Fujifilm lens, for instance, I would just send it back. See Tony's grey market warning.
I run a D800e and a senior friend of mine says - I have some wonderful old lenses in the upstairs in a box - so I went up and got them - Olympus OM , broke my heart - then she said - look in the bottom and there is an "F" mount adapter . Have to do everything Manual - and manual focus but I shoot that way anyhow - they are sharp as a tack - made in the late 60's , early 70's I'm told . Great video ! Enjoyed it !!!
Oh Chelsea and Tony! , this was so relevant to me and I just don’t know what to do! As you may remember, I’ve been following all your FB, Books, Reviews and been a Stunner forever! Here’s my situation… 1. I am not a techie. 2. I used Canon since I began serious photography. 3. I liked my Canon 6D MK 2, the fourth Canon I owned. Then a Lumix Ambassador suggested an S5, with a 24-70 pro lens. I got excited and bought it. Cdn.$5,000 approx. Well after 9 months I’m still struggling. It’s so complicated. Half of me says “persevere”, you’ve spent the money. The other half says “cut your losses and buy a Canon R6”. I don’t make videos. And the voice on my shoulder says try a new hobby you’ll never be a photographer. (My main interest is macro). Any advice for someone whose budget is limited and who is on the point of quitting! Thanks!
@@timothylatour4977 thank you! I’m trying but it’s difficult when you’re in your 80s and haven’t been brought up with anything technical! I am not a quitter and will keep taking little bites until I figure out what I need to know!
I have the opposite of 'confirmation bias' - I spend hours researching something until I'm sure it will be good, AND then when I get it, complain endlessly about how disappointed I am because it didn't hold up to my high expectations. LOL. A frustrating bad habit to have. I agree with buying just what you need and maybe buying two cameras for different tasks - especially if you can get one cheap-ish. However, I really struggle to do this, as I keep mentally spending incrementally more for slight gains, until I eventually buy that expensive version that is more than I need...
thanks for this. All my DSLR bodies are used: Canon 40D, 5D (orig) 7D (orig) and 70D. I have lenses that span 10mm to 400mm, most are secondhand. Have rarely been disappointed buying gear via ebay.
i have bought 4 items of grey equipment. The first was a Nikon 70-200 f2.8. it was defective on arrival. I had a hell of a job trying to get a refund Ebay 8 yrs ago. The next was a Tokina zoom lens, that was defective on arrival the quality of the photos were appaling. It was as thougn it was a cheap copy not a proper Tokina. That went back to Digital Rev for a full refund. Last try was a Nikon D500 from Panamoz, the viewfinder was defective, it had hundreds of tine little silver speckless all over(in the glass pentaprism) and would not show the image in foucus properly. That went back for a full refund. I think people get conned with this grey import thing by thinking that VAT or exices duties are not being paid on these items. I think that is untrue and that all the duties are paid but the cameras have failed the quality tests and are passed off through the grey market cheap(the fools think duty is being avoided when it's not). Ask any of these grey importers how they can sell cameras cheaper than the genuine market and none of them will tell you. And don't think they would not tell you they avoid the duty because the tax man might find out. The tax man is fully aware of all the grey's being imported and knows all the taxes are paid. If you use genuine dealers which I do now, you don't get battery problems, front/back focusing issues, lens coupling issues and more. Just go on some of the forums and read were people are complaining about these sort of problems and when you ask were they got the camera from it's nearly always a grey. If you are a proper photographer who wants to just go and take photos with reliable gear DON'T but greys, they are cheap for a reason. Some amatures will not even realise their grey is defective.
When I decided to go mirrorless to replace my old 5DII I was looking at the available lenses first for FF mirrorless systems. For travel and generic shooting I like the 24-105 range, so to be able to get such a lens was crucial. Thus, Nikon was out. Taking photos should be fun, I borrowed a Sony and I couldn't get around the ergonomics (maybe I'm too much used to Canon). Sony was out.
One more idea relates to the Theory of Dust Collection: essentially what that means is, if you purchase photo equipment but it sits idle for very long periods of time (gathering dust), then you have purchased 'bad gear'. In other words, any gear is a bad buy unless it is actually going to be used. THAT is where the value is measured. Rest assured, there is a lot of equipment that gets purchased with a lot of emotion, and that emotion drains away quickly. Not unlike the associated wallet.
Not sure I agree on the Mix and Match so much. For professional photographers, sure, but as an amateur, you are working within a tight budget and there is no "return on investment". This is a hobby and you buy the best you can, when you can. Frankenstein it if you have to. I got my first DSLR in 2004 (Nikon D70) then upgraded in 2011 (D7000) and 2021 (D850). I wanted to move to full frame in 2011, but at the time, the D7000 had video, whilst the Full frame of the time (D700) did not. Yes ... as Tony said, I always said that I would move to full frame, but years later .... 17 years....I finally did. My first few lenses were the Kit lens (18-70) the "Nifty Fifty" 50/1.8 and a trashy 70-300 - why? Because they were cheap and it's all I could afford at the time. As I took photography more seriously, I started to invest, slowly, one lens at a time, in only FX glass. If I had bought DX only glass, then that eventual step up to an FX camera would have been prohibitive. Now I have my D850 along with a 50/1.8, a 24/1.8, a 105/2.8 micro and an 80-200/2.8. It all matches now, but I was playing the long game, and I do not need to throw away or replace any old DX glass. 1 - Could I have sold the old gear? Not really. My wife uses a D5200 and my 12yo daughter borrows the D7000. They have a few DX lenses and I've given them the 18-70. I miss the upgrade funds, but the lenses are not wasted. 2 - Why not go mirrorless in in 2021? I did not even consider it. Tried it a few years ago, and the poor EVF and low battery life were a no go. The new Nikon Mark II line up looks awesome, and maybe I should have waited a year .... but then again, compared to a D850, the Z7MkII + an FTZ adapter would have been cost prohibitive. The D850 and all my glass will still be good for another 10 years :)
I've had pretty good luck with after market batteries. I was able to buy 8 batteries for the price of 1 Canon. Though I did notice different brands are better than others. I've had good luck with Wasabi batteries. You can't recharge them as many times as the Canon ones and they show a noticeable decrease before they fail, but cost to benefit for a hobbiest is worth it to me. Especially because I left a Canon battery in my pants when I put them in the wash. I'd rather destroy a $10 battery than an $80 one. I'm just a hobbyist though, I don't have the pro experience to know if the little extra reliability of an OEM battery makes that big of a difference on a paid shoot.
Grey market lenses and cameras are not usually a couple hundred dollars less expensive, the difference in price can be upwards of $1000+ depending on what you're buying. Now, a good example on this, is the Canon dealership in my country. Their EF glass and body prices are terrible and well above MSRP anywhere else in the world (don't let me even start talking about RF glass and bodies)! So when I used to shoot with Canon, all my gear (L lenses, accessories, and pro bodies) were 100% grey market and I saved easily more than $10,000 in the gear acquisition process. The gear remained fantastic until the day I sold it after about 10 years and I didn't lose much in terms of resale value because I didn't buy it for crazy money either. The only mistake I think I made purchasing a camera was before my DSLR days, it was actually a point and shoot Nikon Coolpix P50. I only bought it because of the wide angle lens it had, but the picture quality, the high ISO performance, the processor, the optical zoom, and even the shutter button (at a later stage) where a terrible experience compared to a Sony Cyber Shot DSC-W150 that I had around the same time. I ended up giving it to my 8 years old niece so she can learn how to compose shots with it. Thankfully, I did my home work well before all serious gear purchases that I made and didn't have a single regret.
I have bought grey Nikon everything. Saved ££££ Here in the UK it is a right rip-off how much extra is charged, not just on cameras, but everything. The retailers I purchased from did not disclose they were grey (naughty but I knew they were buy the price difference). They did offer their own UK warranty. I have never had to use it, so don't know how good it would be. Maybe other peeps have? I managed to damage as SD card slot on one camera, I dropped it off at Nikon service in SW London (alas they have moved and drop-off is no longer possible, only post) and collected it a while later, no issues with repair, only a large bill for a complete new board. (It was out of warranty by that time anyway and my fault for using a cheap micro USB adaptor) I requested the old board back and it looks a simple repair as the SD card slot is just a standard surface mount component.
I am exclusively using old EF or vintage Helios or sigma lenses on my Canon RP and it works perfectly. Actually going from 1100D to RP with adapter has actually made my EF lenses even better so seriously adapters can be a good thing.
On using third party - I use third-party batteries produced by RavPower and ArtMan for my Canon mirrorless. To be honest they work great. Never had an issue. Third party flashes? Flashpoint are really great. Third party lenses? Depending on the specific lens, third party can be better. Tamron SP 35mm f/1.4 is one of the best 35mm primes on the market. And Sigma’s 135mm f/1.8 is the best there is at that focal length.
If you’re a Nikon nps member just ask for the serial number and add it to your gear list. It will either give the green checkmark indicating that’s it’s a USA model or it will give an error.
Go to squarespace.com/Chelsea & save 10% off your first website or domain with code “Chelsea” UPDATE: Nikon gear, regardless whether its a body or lens, with a serial number that begins with the number 3 indicates that it will not be serviced in the US (thanks Rob!)
I switched to full frame after few years of shooting APS-C (Sony), but kept all the lenses and bodies I had. It's always nice to have a second camera. And it also gives more flexibility. In some scenarios lighter camera or higher reach is preferable, in other - wider angle, better bokeh, or better low light capabilities. I mean, switching to full frame not always requires selling the old stuff.
True. I have a bunch of lenses and two APS-C dslrs which I use most of the time, but I decided to get a D700 for a cheap full frame because I wanted to get no crop factor with certain lenses. Also the D700 has better low light performance vs my other APS-C dslrs.
@@alexs.818 my cameras of choice were a6300 and A7III. Once I drowned a6300 in sea water, but I didn't even think to replace it with another FF, because of flexibility this combo gives. Now I have a6600+A7III, that works even better for me, cause of the same color science they use. They not only do share lenses sometimes now, but also batteries.
Know what you mean about 3rd party lenses, many many years ago I had a Rollie SL35E with a Tamron 17mm full frame fisheye that delivered stunning results on ilfochrome 200 (later used Fuji as I couldn't get the ilfochrome) so when I purchased my Nikon D7200 a while ago I bought a Tamron 10-24mm lens as I had good results from a previous Tamron lens. The results though were ok, not great, lacking in saturation so, I bought a Nikkor 10-24mm lens and the difference was marked, better colours, better saturation, all told a much better lens so even with previous good experience you cannot always rely on consistent results from the same manufacturer.
Informative video. If there is one thing I kind of disagree with is buying full frame lenses for APS-C body. Some good quality, decently priced full frame lenses (especially primes) are quite good on APS-C body because of the maximum corner sharpness and less amount of vignetting.
Tell me if I am wrong, but I am looking for a first DSLR strictly for landscape, streetscape and nightscape photography. That's it. I will NEVER use it now, or in the future, for video. Ever. What I am finding that really drives the prices on DSLRs is video capabilities. That's how they're marketed. That's what you pay for. I don't want a digital camera for that, I want to make art. So... what do you recommend for my specific needs? Right now I am leaning towards just going back to film because I don't want to pay $$$$$ for a camera made for vlogging that also shoots pictures.
There are specs for viewfinder latency... Also when shooting BIF turn off the IBIS and lens stabilization - This can cause significant shift of the image and it's not helpful in anycase with a moving subject. When shooting my G9 with a red dot sight and Dual-IBIS on, the captured frame of a moving bird or plane lags the boresight by half the width of the frame.
This video would be very useful for me a year ago, I bought a full frame sony camera and didn't know about the meaning of APS-C lens thought is was just about the field of view and later I understood that the resolution of my images was divided by 2! 🙄
Generally adapters have no extra lens (no lens included at all) included they just (and only) increase the distance between some lenses and some camera so that the lens can work with the camera,... so flare is never a problem with a "real" adapter. The issue is communication between camera and lens. Most (and simple) adapters do not include electrical communication between lens and camera. They are simple and work (but you have to expect manual focusing). There are different brands and obviously different qualities. Now it is true that top brand lenses are specifically designed for their specific brand of camera, they work better together and bring peace of mind, but there are also other situations... and adapters help people use the same lens with different cameras.
Best to go to a camera shop to handle the camera. Be clear what you want to use it for. Decide the must have features. I got my M50 for the viewfinder the mike jack good autofocus and the articulating screen. You may have different requirements.
In the old days, the lens was "independent" from the body. Now, it is an integrated system, with Auto Focus, and Stabilization. Especially in body and lens stabilization working together.
My problem is that I don't know which used camera's are best for what purposes. There are so many different Nikon and Canon models. I would like some sort of map on what model lines are good for what.
The modern crop of Sigma and Tamron lenses leave very little to be desired and there are many unique lenses that the first party camera companies don’t make themselves.
I often wonder how well my 24-105 Sony G Master lens works with a first generation Sony First generation A7 camera. I suspect it doesn’t pair well (pricy mistake) the A7 doesn’t seem have the processing power. Sony later models seem to be paired with the later G- Master lens. Before the G-master lens came out the Kit lens and my favorite F28mm prime seem to be better then that big heavy G-Master lens. The auto focus seems to be sluggish on the G-Master A7 combination and that big lens wants to use a tri-pod which is an issue on fast moving in travel tours and street photography. I believe this goes to your main point about gear. “You get better results with a proper pairing of camera and lens” Take into consideration how you use your gear before purchasing. Cheers Richard.
Just my 2c on grey market. There are reputable grey market sellers who have a long history of honouring "seller warranty" repairs. The prices are often cheaper than used as well, which given you have a usable warranty, is new and is cheaper, it almost makes no sense to not go grey market.
My biggest buy mistake was buying a camcorder when I should have bought a DSLR, back in 2011 So I decided to buy a higher end consumer camcorder (Panasonic TM750) because I focused mainly on video creation and wanted to make short films. But I had doubts that I should have bought a Canon T2i instead. My reason for this was that video on DSLR was still new and there was lots of things lacking such as Autofocus, Video Stabilization, Smooth Zooming, Battery Life, More than 30 min recording limit, etc. The second reason was that it would cost me more money to buy multiple lenses and I would have to keep switching lenses as I change zooms. So a camcorder made more sense to me for the budget, and capabilities. And in ways this was a great tool which I did use for many trips, vlogs, events, etc. Why DSLR: However, It was not great for cinematic film making which is what I mainly wanted to use it for. I saw people making more interesting and better content with T2i that what I was able to make because of their ability to change to different lenses for better looks, control the camera setting for more control, better noise control in low light situations, and 24p mode not creating jitter. Things I cannot do with my camcorder. Though their camera did not have stabilization, autofocus, or smooth zooming and they had to carry a bunch of batteries with portable audio recorders, they worked around those limitations and produced better results at the end. My Camcorder Concerns: My purchase really ended up being a more convenient camera with false manual control. Meaning It's good all around and easy to take with you but you cant adapt it to specific scenarios or shots. False manual control was another problem. I could add on a wide or macro lens to the front, but not replace the built in lens. The camera had controls for Shutter Speed, Aperture (Iris), and White Balance, but not ISO and it did it very poorly too. Also the 24p was actually 59.94i which convert it to 29.97 and used detelecine to convert it to 23.976. This created jitter when I rendered it out with software making it difficult to edit films. The codec was also a bit of a pain at first since it was using a proprietary AVCHD which is some type of MPEG4 with H.264 wrapped in a MK4 file. At the time every powerful computer could not decode it quickly making the rendering process 14X longer than other formats. But over the years computer architecture and adaption to H.264 removed this problem. My Alternatives: My other option was to buy a Pro Camcorder which would have more proper manuals features, But they were all very expensive for me at the time and all were lacking a balance in essential features. The other option which I should have taken was to buy a DLSR camera that recorded in SD video and some used lenses and learned to use that as the quirks worked out and in the meantime learned better photography at the time along side. I did not want to buy the DSLR because taking the lenses, memory cards, and batteries into account it was too expensive for me so I opted for a less expensive all rounded options. My camera was well rounded for everything other than making cinematic films on a low budget, which is exactly what I was aiming for and did not get. What a bummer and in some ways a regret. Now after all these years once the tech has matured, I am searching to upgrade to a new camera system. This time it will be a DSLR for both video and photos.
@@borderlands6606 yes now I will be getting the mirrorless camera. In fact I my aim is for the Sony A7iv after the reviews come out. I like the A7iii but it's a bit overkill for me and I also want something good for photos as well. The A7iv seems like it would be the best balance along with all the improvements Sony made over the years with its cameras. canon is another great ecosystem but I am not sure about them yet for video. They need some catching up to do.
i had a sony a7ii but the eye AF never really worked fast enough for action photos, eg competitive ballroom dancing. so i changed to the A6400 as it uses the latest eye AF used on the A9. my images went up to 95% in focus. i wanted an 85mm lens or 105mm 1.8 lens which are not available for APSC so i bought a full frame 85mm Zeiss Batis which gave me awesome results. i know it gives 127mm f2.7 but this works as i dont have any other prime options for APSC Sony
I buy new gear only. I will buy third party accessories and lens but I am picky about the brand, buying mostly based on previous experience. For certain items such as adapters, batteries, and remotes I buy camera manufacturer only as I have found 3rd party are hit or miss. As someone who has been shooting for many years, I agree there is no perfect camera or perfect lens. Your advice to figure out what camera and lens work best for you is spot on.
I am surprised you did not recommend renting the camera and or lens you decided on before buying, for a few hundred bucks on very expensive gear you can get it and try it for 3days to a week and see if it is really what you want. I have done that on 2 of the lenses I bought after the kit lens-- Worked well for me.
Something similar happened to me when I purchased my Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens. I went through Amazon, The vendor I picked had the same price as others and said the lens came with Tamron's warranty. Except when I went to register the lens, Tamron would not accept the registration, saying I bought it from a camera shop that was not a licensed Tamron dealer. They wanted to keep 20 percent of my payment as a restocking fee, so I decided to keep the lens -- without the warranty. I also complained to Amazon, which did remove that vendor's Tamron lens listings. I hope I don't ever need the warranty.
Good video! Now I have been buying quite some used gear, but always from sellers around where I live so that I can test before buying. Recently bought a new camera. Spent hours in a store discussing with store employees and customers + handling the gear. I very nice experience
I was a landscape photographer until Covid I used a Pentax K70 for photography. I started walking the beach and started doing bird photography. I upgraded my kit by buying a used a used Pentax K3-11 from KEH camera it has double the focus points of the K70 I also upgraded my lens by buying a new Pentax 55-300 PLM WR lens which has a fast autofocus system. In a few years I may upgrade with the new Pentax K3-3 with a much faster autofocus system when the prices become more reasonable
I agree with your points. I've been struggling for the last months trying to decide which camera to buy. I used a Nikon D3200 for some years, and now I'm using a Sony RX100 M4, and wanted my next camera to be a Full Frame. But why would I need one? The cheapest FF cameras are somehow limited in terms of specs, and the kit lenses they come with are not what I want. But yet again, why am I struggling trying to pick a FF, when I know I am perfectly comfortable with a APS-C. I know I don't care that much about FPS, I barely shoot sports, I even prefer taking long exposures; I want the camera to have 2 memory slots, but I've had no problems with any camera regarding memory cards. The same applies for the rest of the specs I've read over and over, I want something better, but the camera becomes more expensive, and I may not even need it or use it.
On my first lens purchase, I bought a 5-pin Tamron lens for a D3300, had no idea I needed the 8-pin model in order to have autofocus, nothing I read made that clear, even Tamron's lens compatibility guide. Also, the lens I did get, works 100% fine, but I cringe when I look at the elements and there is dust inside the lens, but doesn't effect image quality, but that's just me. Another thing, I bought my Nikon from a individual, not a company that can repair it with some type of warranty. I did get my moneys worth with an included $200 35mm 1.8 lens, thrown in the deal. But.
Here is a kit comparison issue. The Sony Alpha A6000 sells as a kit with the standard kit lens and also a telephoto zoom. If you look closely, you can get the body with just the kit lens, then purchase the telephoto as a separate item, and it is $50 less!
Welp, a third party battery killed my d4. Im 16 so i didn't wanna spend 240 bucks i didn't have on a battery. I had my d4 in rain and sadly the bl6 didn't close properly. Rain got in and now i have to fix it. No one will touch it with water damage, luckily i build cameras though...
@@Neopulse00 yeah, i figure I'll just turn it into a d4s. Luckily i have a d600, just got a d3s, a em1, and my school just gave me a gh5 so my d4 isn't my only camera. I just hate how its so expensive to fix (d3300 motherboard is 50 bucks and the d4s is 700)
Just got a new Canon D90 to replace my Canon 450D (which still looks and works as good as new), I’ll never use most of its features. Mirrorless was a big no for me, spend enough time at work looking at computer screens, my hobby is about getting out and not looking at computer screens. Looked around and bought Canon macro, wide angle and telephoto lens 2nd hand, and heavily reduced(damaged box!). With my limited skills I couldn’t see the point of going full frame, if I do my some miracle of god start taking decent photos and feel the need to upgrade, I think medium format will be the way to go. I really wanted a camera with a split focusing screen to have the option to manually focus, but its auto focusing all the way down now.
I just today had a good experience from eBay. A seller had two Canon 580EX flashes up for sale saying each needed some repair (yeah, I know but I wanted another flash I was already familiar with.) We've got a guy nearby who is a whiz with Canon products so I made an offer of $20.00 for both. They arrived today and one was a corrosion mess in the battery compartment. No wonder it wouldn't power up! A few minutes with some white vinegar and silicone grease and it powered up just fine. The other had a problem with the flash head. It would "tilt" but not "pan." Huh? He apparently hadn't bothered to read the manual. On the 550EX there are two separate buttons for those head movements. On the 580EX just one. Push that button and it tilts and pans just fine. I'm sure there's a lesson here but I'm not going to tell him. 😇
I nodded my head with everything you said until you mentioned 3rd party lenses. I would say get quality third party lenses. For example, I have the Sigma 150 - 600 Sport for full frame. Now if Canon comes out with something weird and new in terms of autofocusing I will probably be able to use the docking system to upgrade the Sigma lens autofocusing feature. Same with flashes, Metz flashes can be upgraded through an internet download, so why not.
@@DCPhoto4 My lens has been fine. Before you purchase the Sport model, also check out the Contemporary model as well, it is lighter in weight and cheaper in price. The Sport model is definitely heavier and designed for rugged use. The optics on both models are pretty much the same. If I were buying again, I'd get the Contemporary. And if it doesn't marry well with your camera, a bit of soft focus, you can always purchase the docking station for Sigma to make adjustments to the lens.
Great as usual. After nearly 40 years using SLRS and DSLRS, My biggest mistake was going micro4/3 to cut weight, not because of sensor size but because of really terrible autofocus. Still, with experience in ancient manual focus, starting with an SRT-101, and practice with the touch screen, I overcome. I then got a good cellphone camera and now rarely use the camera. I’m thinking of getting a new camera with eye detect since all cameras seem much more manageable in weight, but I often think why bother when my cellphone pictures with a little processing are sharper than many of the great photos of the past. Oh, what to do? I am a gear head so be sure I will eventually buy more stuff. Keep up the incredible work. You guys are the best.
Yeah I'm pretty unhappy with the iPhone 14 pro after shooting only with Sony gear for many years. I would never consider using my phone with my old android. I thought that the newer iPhone would be able to replace the old A6000 and it's tiny kit lens that I kept in my purse. I should have just bought a cheap phone and continued to use the A6000.
I've had some buyers remorse over lenses I've bought. In particular buying a Nikon 55-300mm because it was cheap rather than buying a 80-400mm or 200-500mm or even a Sigma 60-600mm.
With EOS M and EOS R adapting is no problem. The "they are slower than on the DSLR" is wrong. Yes, some RF lenses are faster than adapted EF. Simply because they are more modern. Sometimes by over a decade.
There are a lot of people who would like to beat Ken Rockwell.......
3 года назад
for me i will never use adapters again, if it is not a dumb adatper without electronics i will not buy it ever again. We adapted a Irix lens so the adapter only controlled the Iris. We tested it a couple of times then we had to do a timelapse and in the middle of the night the camera bugged and opened the iris, a day of work completely gone and we had so much stress to keep up... the other thing is incompatible lenses. We had MANY adapters, sigma mc, metabones etc. and the sigma internals simply shorted out because we used a incomatible lens. Metabones speedbooster Sony A to Sony E... it does not get easier. the Lenses stuttered, missed focus, it was horrible... now i will only use native or fully manual lenses... that is a reason why i completely dith canon ... the bigger cinema bodies still have ef mount, but ef mount is dead, the smaller have rf mount but are apsc and rf apsc do not exist and using typical fullframe lenses means you have the strangest focal lenghts on the body. etc. ... Fun fact, many are upgrading to fx9 andfx6 right now because they are full frame and have amazing AF and i so often read about using apsc lenses or adapting ef lenses... they are destroying everything they just upgraded to ... :D strange
D500 from B&H currently selling for &1,596.00. Just bought one and I love it....my first high-end DSLR. Purchased for wildlife photography. Will use this camera with the Nikon 200-500 5.6.
I bought a Canon 5DsR. Don't get me wrong the camera is insane, but I just didn't need any of the features and I ended up selling it and sticking with my 6D. I mostly shoot handheld macro and it was really difficult to avoid motion blur on the 50mp. The shots I nailed had detail down to the pixel but being a pixel peeper I couldn't help but look at every shot closely, even if I didn't need to crop and reject what would probably be an otherwise good photo when scaled. Also, when shooting on 50mp I tend to get lazy and not thing about framing, step back a bit and think "I'll come up with a crop in post". On the 6D's 20mp it only has about 30% max crop before 4K so the shots matter a little more.
Hi Tony & Chelsea, A few points: Grey market can be a LOT cheaper.. You're right to point out the warranty issues, but I too have bought mostly Grey market and have not had issues, or have had the lenses/cameras repaired at independent repair centres (cheaper than Nikon!) Adapted lenses are GREAT. Finally I can choose ONE body (Nikon Z7ii) and use all the greatest lenses from ALL manufacturers.. including older MF lenses, Canon L lenses etc etc.. Sure, the adapters may make the lenses slower, but just think of the simplicity.. one body to learn and know how to use, and using specific lenses for the image you need to create. Nikon traditionally has better bodies. And Canon with their L glass made some quite amazing lenses with a wider aperture than Nikon.
Thank you guys for being professional enough to account for your mistakes and making it aware too other photographers about being a little more cautious when purchasing equipment, especially if it's expensive gear! I wanted to get into mirrorless several years ago but the cost of the lenses were super expensive. To this day, I still shoot with an aps-c camera simply because I like the gear that's readily available for it.
Totally agree regarding forums. I bought a pair of Leica Ultravid binoculars off eBay which turned out to be faulty. Thanks to wrong advice about Leica offering lifetime guarantees, I ended up sending them to Leica. Leica refused to repair them FOC, wanted to charge me 60.00 GBP for a refused estimate then the seller refused to take them back. I would have been out-of pocket had I refused the estimate to the tune of 75.00 GBP (inc postage to Leica in Portugal) ...the repair and service cost me 315.00 GBP. They came back upgraded to new spec and effectively 'as new' condition. So it wasn't quite so bad, they are amazing quality and used often. But if you get wrong advice off forums? Tough !
Grey market.....for the most part....giving the manufacture the serial number, can tell you if it grey or not. One exception I’ve seen is some Nikon lenses even the manufacturers can’t tell you without sending in the lense.....because according to nikon those particular lenses have a identifier inside the lense, this is true likely because the lense outsold the allotment for the country (this case, North America, where the serial numbers usually start with 3), and Nikon supplies what would be out of market serial numbers to Nikon USA dealers, and put a marking into the inside of the lens stating its usa authorized. I do know that Tamron can tell you if it’s usa or grey through serial number via Tamron’s usa’s phone number.
Quite different in the UK. Nikon UK doesn't care where one has purchased the camera/ lens from. However, I would usually use Fixation (UK) London and Manchester. Excellent value, quick, and of course, they use nikon parts. I would like to purchase everything from a camera store (shop) but Hong Kong is so much cheaper.
That is true. I have had on two occasions err message and camera shut down with my EOS R using Sigma A35mm f1.4 and lost a video file for a wedding shoot. Sad!!!
5:22 I think this can go both ways. I went this route and it worked great for me but I stayed in the Nikon system. I purchased old used fx glass to put on my D90. I didn't buy any bundled kits... Bodies only and lenses only. Ebay was my go-to when I couldn't afford new. When I eventually got a D700 I didn't stop using the D90 (or the D200, D7000, etc) I'd take both. Having the FX glass meant I didn't have to also buy new lenses which I didn't have the budget for. As I sold more jobs, I made enough to buy better gear and recover faster. At some point I started buying pro bodies so the dx cameras were rotated out but it allowed me to ease into fx with the hassle of selling gear. Being able to get a 80-200mm f2.8 used for the price of a kit lens made me images that would get clients. Maybe this is good for the hobbyist, but I went in it to make money. I started with nothing, so making very specific choices in gear allowed me to take on more business and grow to the point where my income could afford better gear (which in turn sped up my workflow).
I bought a great D800e camera and a bargin used 28-105mm f3.5-5.5. It turned out the lens probably had been dropped on the floor and was only sharp in the middel and right side, left side is very blurry. The seller would not take it back, and it was too expensive to have it repaired so now I have to stop it down to f8 to get sharp photos over the entire photo. I feel that I dont get full value of my camera even though it works ok, but sometimes my photos from the Iphone seems sharper than from the dslr. It was a bad experience and the conversation with the seller of the lens went all wrong as he claimed that I had damaged the lens, and I should had reacted asap, The lens also has a strange mechancal clicking sound when zooming in.
I bought my most expensive lens from the place with the best price on the Internet. I'd never heard of them before or bought anything from them. They charged me extra for the lens hood, even though that was supposed to come with it, but they threw in an extended warranty for free. The lens was almost half-price at over $1000, and then I dropped it within a month, and it couldn't really focus right after that. Of course, I couldn't get it serviced by the manufacturer, or the warranty company, or anyone else. The company I bought it from disappeared from the Internet, as well. Expensive lesson. Since then, I buy almost all my equipment from a single NYC camera shop that has never let me down.
I borrowed nikon d5100, used it for a while and was totaly satisfied with the results camera produced. But I had to return it, so recently bought used Nikon D7000 + 50mm 1.8d for 240$ and Sigma 17-50/2.8 for 200$. I miss articulating screen a little bit, but with this purchise I got more professional camera(althought a little bit outdated) which fits my needs and I enjoy photography more.
I can't afford a R6 right now. Meanwhile in need of another full frame, I got a used 1DX I to replace my 7D2 for indoor sports - great deal and still a good camera :D Shot pro national league handball with 1DX + 70-200 f/2.8, 6D1 + 300mm f4 L IS and 7D2 + 24-105 f4 MK2. Upgrade plans are 2 x R6 with 70-200 and 300mm f/2.8 as main bodies. The rest will be backup. Amazing what the old 6D can do at 800 lux :D
One mistake I made was selling gear and buying new before I got the most from the old. Buying new gear will not improve your skill. Go out and shoot every day and get better with the gear you have. That's the enjoyable part of photography. Reading reviews and forums is important but know when to turn everything off and get outside!
Same. I bought a D3200 at a pawn shop without knowing anything about it. I later traded up to a D5500, even though I never really mastered the D3200, because of the Veri-Angle touch screen. Then I traded up again to a D7500, again without mastering the D5500. I love the D7500 but I did have a bit of buyers remorse because I loved the D5500 too. I sold the D5500 with the kit lens yesterday.
"Grey Market" is a name made up by 'official' sellers in their respective countries in order to force people to buy expensive, overpriced gear from them. All my camera gear since my Nikon D5200 was "Grey Market" and I never had any issues with them all, I currently own a D850 and D780 complete with scary "Grey Market" lenses. I have saved thousands of pounds in avoiding over priced camera gear.
Yeah, I dont know if this story with Nikon is true or not, but If its is its totally their BS. I would be extremely bad customer if they would told me that they wont service the lens or camera because its from different region. Im not sure that they can legally tell this to customers in EU anyway.
Not sure if they’ll reject grey market stuff, but you’ll definitely be missing out on a warranty, as it’s not sold by a licensed dealer.
@@sauceboss94 it's your money mate, spend it for the peace of mind.
In my country Nikon said they will happily repair a grey market item.
In Canada I've run into issues where they won't service Grey market nikon stuff .. also forfeit warranty, not worth it imo here in Canada.. I understand Eu often pays an extra premium though so may be worth it in that case, assuming you don't get a lemon.
I find it amazing that in 2021 manufacturers still get away with refusing to repair things because they were bought in a different country. As if people don't move around a lot nowadays. And it's one thing to say the warranty isn't valid in another country, but it's another to refuse to even sell the parts to a repair shop so you can't even pay to get it repaired.
I couldn’t agree more! It’s completely against right to repair
German situation:
Your warranty is with the seller of the goods not the manufacturer. If you bring a grey market camera to Canon CPS (like a certain Ex-coworker thst boasted about how big a dealmaker he was had to) they give you the choice "Contact the seller or pay for the repair as if the warranty has expired"
If you bring a german market camera to the CPS they take over the warranty (they need to see a bill with date of service). AFTER they have accepted the camera they politely ask "why not the seller" (at least if the seller is a resonably close brick and mortar shop). That"s okay - why would one skip the seller, the CPS was a bit out of the way until recently so this might hint at problems with service quality at an official dealer. In my case - the dealer was 25km, half through a large city and in the evening. CPS was 1000m down the road during lunchbreak
Nikon is the biggest prick in this regard!
You should be able to repair at your cost no matter where you bought the equipment. I live in UK, tomorrow I might move to Poland, next year in Thailand. So I can't fix camera if I am abroad? That is not right!
@@Sayanmondalncbs I disagree. Sony is.
This is yet another prime example of why right to repair is so damn important!
I use a crop camera (Nikon D500) with a full frame lens (Nikkor 200-500mm), combination you recommended , with no problems and excellent results.
I don’t think that they’re referring to that.. that’s a really common combo
I don’t believe that theory is correct.
I have the same kit. I also use an older Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 AF too, this is comparable due to crop, to the 80mm high end Portrait/Fashion Nikkor MF that I used to use back in the day on my F3hp back in the wonderful film days.
I believe generally what they are saying are correct.....bigger sensors in average bodies are better IQ wise, and low light wise. But when you go to flagship type cameras, sensors are so excellent, like the D500, that gives you a tremendous sensor, and the advantage of length from a crop sensor, it’s really insignificant the loss of any perceived image quality over the full frame equivalent, and actually adds benefits that are more important in particular situations.
They actually say if you use full frame lense with cropped sensor, the pixel density is higher on the body. So if the lense was for 34mp on a full frame, then if you use a 20mp cropped, you are fine. But if you use something higher, you lose to sharpness. Where cropped lenses usually take this into consideration so they are generally sharper at the same price. But in your case it should be fine because it is a telephoto that won't be really sharp anyway and your camera isn't a crazy high megapixel one.
I am a big believer in buying used, especially if you are a professional who takes advantage of professional service programs.
The greatest mistake I have seen is buying an expensive camera and lenses to make up for poor technique.
I would actually disagree with that somewhat. Learning about gear and lenses can be useful and if you got a DSLR it might be the best type of camera to learn with as it provides more options for you, more future potential. Sure you can also learn fundamentals like color balance, exposure and such on phone, but a full DSLR will make you learn way more than that.
0:23 Tony: "Hopefully this will save you thousands of dollars."
Me, looking at my sickly bank account. "That will definitely not be a problem."
Mine is pretty anemic also you aint alone
@Charles Davidson Although with that same Anemic acct I'm trying to find me a Leica MP.
@@gewglesux I'd like to score an affordable Leica too.
@@chuckdavidson5483 It's not affordable.. it's preowned.. and if you really want to know what pisses me the EFF off is that it's only $300 less than a brand new one.. The thing is that with the MP they build like maybe 100 (if that) a year.When they get shipped to a store that has a waiting list of 10 people or more -yeah that shop will get 2 pieces.
I scored me a wicked Olympus Mirrorless OMD 10 MkII for $300 WITH the 75-150mm :) Long live the frugal budgeters!
I started off on film with a Pentax 35mm film camera & went to college with it. Learned printing, developing film etc. Had it for years. It hit the biscuit. I went through a bunch of point and shoot pocket digital cameras and these were early. I was never satisfied and gave up photography for a while.
A few years ago I received a Nikon D3400 entry level camera as a gift from family to encourage me to get back into things. It has no wifi and no mic jack and has other limitations. However.. it has been great. I’m on a budget. I saved up to purchase two third party speedlites & controller, a 50mm 1.8 and two of my children started hockey so I picked up a 70-300 ( which is variable aperture). I watched your video on shooting in snow, spot metering, exposure compensation etc which helped with the ice surface and bad images I started to get. That fixed that issue really fast. The camera battery beats anything on the market. Most cameras get 300 shots or 500 shots, I’m doubling that. And I have more than one battery. I can go through six hockey games in a tournament and not run out of power ( that’s if the team reaches the finals).
Over the last several years I’ve added soft boxes, umbrellas, continuous lighting and an external audio recorder to have better sound.
Regardless of what people think of Entry level and 11 focus points, & 5 frames a second, I’m getting amazing images 24 megapixels . If I had a choice to upgrade, I’d be looking at a D7500 so I can use my lenses I own and other features I don’t have. These features have nothing to do with the image. It’s my eye and my composition and how I use the exposure triangle.
I’ve watched RUclips videos .. get this, get that, oh this softbox is the best etc. Oh click the link and “ I get a commission or buy my presets “ I’m not buying the sales pitch. I could use an f:/2.8 lens fixed aperture zoom. But I’m on a budget. So I use the equipment I have and adapt. That better lens might give me an extra stop or two of light and bokeh. I’m doing just fine and I’m here to challenge that because there’s nothing wrong with my images as far as exposure goes.
I look at things to either improve, motivated, or looking at something I haven’t considered photographing & how to do it.
I photograph a lot of different things. Lots of fun. Love the challenge. Like to challenge myself. I like to push the limits of my equipment to get the best results I can. I’m always learning something new.
I have a diploma in archives. I consider myself a documentary photographer because I am recording a moment in time, an event, people or place. There’s a story to capture. Can I do that with what the subject is projecting to me? OR do I have to use my skills to interpret that for the viewer when I press the shutter?
Thanks for the video.
I wish I could add more likes to your comment. That stuff is so true for me too. My little D3500 does what I need it to do and I don't need all the bells and whistles that comes with more expensive cameras.
??? so???
Still harping on about not using full frame lenses on APS-C bodies eh. Funny, my Nikon D500 doesn't seem to mind - it is a joy to use with my 300mm f/2.8 + 1.4 TC. I know many people also use the D500 with the Nikon 200 - 500mm f/5.6, both of these lenses are full frame and these combos produce the goods. Even my old AF-S 300mm f/4 D is an amazing match with the D500.
I agree! I even use my diddy Nikon z50 toy camera, connected via the ftz adapter to the 200-500 f 5.6. It certainly resolves more detail than I expected with phenomenal sharpness. Yet we were told it was a useless idea putting aps-c in a Z mount. I couldn't be happier. There's a lot of misconceptions and media hype out there. There's soon to be a ftz adapter with screw drive announced. So I think Nikon is certainly the most loyal brand out there.
@Nate Dog What are those benefits? And do they cancel the downside which is much more money for ff lenses and more weight?
@@timothylatour4977 FX lenses generally have better optics. Nikon did make a few good DX lenses, but you get better quality with FX lenses. Price wise, well the good DX lenses like the 17-55 f2.8 and 12-24 f4 are expensive too. You can also find good lenses on the used market. Especially now that Nikon’s dropped many of its f lenses. And when I buy a good used D700, I’ve got my lenses already. Best of all, I can buy DX or FX lenses.
D7500 with Sigma 35mm ART 1.4 and Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2, they work together without a problem. I am thinking to upgrade to a Z6 II, but i am not in a hurry.
A FF body will give better IQ than it’s equivalent crop body, but it has nothing to do with lens compatibility, it’s simply the FF sensor vs the smaller crop sensor. Though Tony obviously believes there’s more to it than that.
That "don't put ff lenses on crop bodies" is just for pixelpeepers. Sorry, but gradually switching to FF works for sooo many people, and the quality difference might be completely irrelevant for most people. "Image" comes from imagination, not from pixel-perfection.
Even pixelpeepers should be satisfied. I definitely would like anyone to demonstrated that FF lenses are worse on an APS-C body than an APS-C lens. It sounds rather ludicrous to me for many technical reasons.
With the price of one good FF lens you could get two FF bodies. If you want to go full frame go. EOS RP with a zoom is now 1300 € here.
@@okaro6595 The R system has nearly no cheap lenses. I wouldn't go for that system on a budget.
I enjoy shooting 35mm color film. Being 21 years old and native to digital photography, I find film much more satisfying and rewarding to me. I have been doing this for about a year and one of the mistakes I made was wanting a camera that did everything. I would buy and sell over and over, looking for a camera I was truly satisfied with. It finally dawned on me that there was no camera that was going to be great at everything I wanted to shoot. So, I bought a Nikon N90 for fast moving objects with its sharp autofocus, a Canon AE-1 Program for amazing still life and macro photos, and an Olympus OM-1 for its small and lightweight body and to take more casual photos with. I also enjoy the fact that the shutter doesn't require a battery. Just realize sometimes that perfect all in one camera you may seek doesn't exist. And while, each of these cameras can do it all, they may not do it as well as others will.
There is a lot of muddy thinking about value. The concepts I am exploring are not specific to photography: they are used by fortune 500 companies to buy everything from paper clips to new buildings.
A FEATURE: is a characteristic specific to a product or service, but has no inherent relationship to any specific user It can be be expressed by the phrase: "this is what we have, is it any use to you?"
A BENEFIT: is specific to the potential purchaser and represents something that will either improve their performance, or mitigate a limit to their performance. This could be expressed by the line by the Spice Girls: "Tell me what you want, what you REALLY, REALLY want!"
VALUE: is only achieved when you can map a feature to a benefit. So, to give an example. A camera has an ability to shoot 4k video - that's a FEATURE. However, since I don't shoot video it does not map to a benefit I need, so it has no value in my buying evaluation.
The following process works:
1. Establish Your Criteria: Define BENEFITS you want, rank them in priority: MUST HAVE, Want, would be nice...
2. Research for Products: Find products that have FEATURES the match your benefits list
3. Compare and Filter: Remove any that don’t match your “must have” criteria
4. Reduce the list to 2-3.
5. Evaluate: Try out the gear with a hands-on evaluation
6. Make your purchase: Shop around for good deals from reliable vendors that support local warranties.
As regards advice for camera buyers:
I contribute to a couple of fora ( yes, I admit it!!! I was a professional but am now retired), and see frequent inquiries on the theme of 'what camera should I buy?'
As mentioned, I inevitably see these requests with the absolute minimum of information provided (which tells you something), yet members (some very senior) respond (without further clarification) with a recommendation based on THEIR shooting situation.
I resist this, and instead suggest the following questions for the potential purchaser to consider, and hopefully answer, if they want a valid response.
1. If you have camera gear, what specifically are its limitations that hold you back from taking the images you want?
If they don't know, it might well serve them better to invest in education, via on-line on local courses and workshops, camera societies or for those
just starting, question #5 becomes relevant...
2. What is the budget? So many people over-invest in gear that offers them no benefit (as per the above) and blow their budget, or are tempted to keeping upping the investment. They are encouraged by the GAS community, who believe that the latest iteration of gear will unleash the hitherto latent talent that lies within them.
I was working with an educational facility that was conducting a series of courses on photography. Despite clear guidelines that the right camera should have controls for aperture and shutter priority, and manual and that the maximum size was 1500 pixels on the long dimension of an image, students were being persuaded to put themselves into debt to get the latest and most expensive gear.
GAS is different from those who engage with the gear from a purely technical perspective as they are not necessarily seeking to leverage a photographic performance benefit.
3. What Subjects will you take: This helps to identify the types of equipment - e.g. video or not, general-purpose, travel, wildlife, portraits - all of these will give clues to the consultant about Fields of View, sensor dynamic range etc. (impacting lenses and sensors).
For specific purposes, or to evaluation gear, renting equipment may be a much better solution. For that once-in-a-lifetime trip to the Masai Mara to shoot the great migration, not having to invest in a suitable super tele lens, transport it to Africa, use it and return it may not be the best solution: especially if one is not likely to need that type of gear again. Many such travel companies can arrange renting of gear at the location of the shoot, thus reducing investment and risk.
4. What Will you PRODUCE: I rarely see this question asked, yet it is arguably the MOST significant question! It takes a lot greater investment to provide the gear for high end Art (with a capital A), large, hi-res prints, than for social media sites that are likely to downsize images or digital displays.
In the end, the final output is what it is all about. For those looking at part-time professional work, the challenge is balancing an often limited budget with a need to be able to provide images in the event of unexpected situations or gear failure.
5. What are your intentions: People take photos for a huge range of reasons: from purely social and casual photography: where the priority is not the taking of images, but the engagement. Parents with kids, school events, social events.
Then there are students in photography who likely have limited budgets and are yet to confirm their specific career and gear choices.
Enthusiasts who may be engaged in competition for example, and finally professionals for whom the camera is a tool to produce products or services (although they are unlikely to be engaging in this process). Each of these perspectives will have a different value-set and priority, and establishing those can make a huge difference.
When looking at a long-term engagement, the gear as a system is worth considering, as changing brands can be an expensive process...
6. What are you prepared to carry: Depending upon the activity, large and heavy gear may not be appropriate. For example: for travel, one may want more compact and lighter gear to reduce risks during transit and offer more convenience. Multi-day hikers may well choose a similar type of gear as it has to compete with hiking equipment in the pack but may also have to be more rugged.
As we age, or have injuries, less is often more. In the end the best camera is the one you are prepared to carry with you.
7. Ergonomics and Interface: Simply looking at specs and reviews does not offer the experience of manipulating the controls and menus of a camera. I have seen people pay out significant sums for gear and then hate how it feels and operates in the hands. They either have to sell it and get something else (at a cost), or suck it up and get used to the limitations.
Good read Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Trevor
Thanks very much for sharing your experience. I'm 55, a Master Plumber, and have been scouring multiple sources for information for my first camera, lens, and accessories purchase. I'd like to do general photography and video of friends and family, landscape with sunsets over lakes, and some wildlife including hummingbirds.
Luckily, I've had the time to read and watch hours of RUclips videos and read multiple fora (yes, 4 years of H. S. and 2 yrs of university Latin!). Unlucky is that I had the time from two cancer surgeries (all is well) and spine fusion surgery (meh), all in 2021!
All of your thoughts are spot on. Many people buy with their emotions, and decisions based on emotions are usually not wise. This advice can be used not only for camera purchases, but for anything, even regular, everyday decisions.
I've taught many Apprentices in my career who love GAS. Good quality tools are important, but the skills behind them are what's important.
Like they say in shooting pool:
It's not the stick, it's the shooter!
Going to try and get in touch with you on your Channel.
Thanks
@@tomhill9027 Thanks for your kind comments Tom. Sadly, I don't have a channel - I'm just a voyeur! :-)
Good discussion. With due respect, two big issues I had with professional reviewers when I was upgrading from my D750: 1 - Pro reviewers don’t give nearly enough weight to the cost of changing brand systems. The Sony xxxx might be superior to the Nikon yyyy is some areas, but most people with a big investment in lenses won’t see that improvement as worth a wholesale change. 2 - For my work as a non-vlogger, I really don’t care if the Sony/Fuji has a flip screen and the Nikon does not. I’ll almost never need it even if a vlogger thinks it’s indispensable.
Oh yes this second thing happens way too much. So many of the reviews are from vloggers or streamers and they only focus on their own personal use-case! It's frustrating and not so audience friendly.
I like about Tony and Chelsea that they buck this trend and frequently talk about "what works for you" and the different ways things are used in different situations. I wish there was more of that.
That’s why you should buy for the glass. I shoot Canon because I researched and bout a lot of Vintage EF L lenses. It might not be as sharp as other lenses but the unique look makes my photos stand Out. EF135 f2 is one gem.
Tamron service is great! I have a 15-30mm f/2.8 (old model) and they updated the firmware so it would work with the Nikon Z-mount adapter (FTZ). All it cost was shipping and I am very happy with it.
I always buy used gear and if I don't get on with it I'll sell it on, usually for about the same money. That way I get my gear fix on the cheap. By the way, my favourite combo is the D500 with the 200-500mm so mixing fx and dx isn't a problem for me. Good vid though guys
This is the way....also, If you buy from boomers with too much money they tend to buy from autosized dealers, and you avoid the grey market situation as well.
My strategy for looking through reviews is to look for similar negative reviews. If one person says the lens has slow AF then maybe that was user error or they got a malfunctioning lens or something. If a dozen people say the lens has slow AF, maybe it has slow AF. Almost every product has positive reviews if it has enough reviews, and positive reviews don't often get specific.
The problem with 5 star reviews is that people often make them right away with no time to find the little problems. Unless they say something like "After using it every weekend for a year" you have to take reviews with a grain of salt.
Yes I am a negative review reader too. Same as you, I look for consistency. When Amazon used to let you comment on reviews the negative reviews got lots of haters. I want to thank all of you out there that leave negative reviews. Even if I don't agree, I don't take it as a personal affront if you don't like my favorite gear.
I have bought a lot of gear used online and I can knock on wood say I have never had an issue with a single item. The one thing I have done on every occasion is get to know the user of the gear who is selling it. most of the gear has been expensive bodies and lenses so its my expectation that the user is a practicing photographer. Red flags are people selling expensive gear who wouldn't know a F stop if it hit them in the face. I have asked to see their Instagram page to see if they have work they produced with the gear. I think this has saved me from buying something that is questionable or even worse could be a fraud.
Well. It really depends. I mean you can get parts from grey market as well. And if one is a DIY guy, it's not that difficult to just do the repair by yourself. I bought a a6000 which ended up being broken when it arrived. No worry, I just tore it apart and found out that it was the sensor and shutter both which were not working since someone had let salty water in from the bayonet.
I ordered new parts from ebay, washed the existing parts in bathroom sink from the salt residue, put it together and I have had it for 4 years now and it's still kickin'. And not only I have a functioning camera, I also have a fun story to tell. And the knowhow to fix it again.
Actually disagreeing with you, for once, and strongly, on 3rd party batteries. I too used to hate, for instance, Wasabi batteries for Sony mirrorless. After a couple years of swearing by only Sony batteries, decided to try Rav Power batteries. They’ve outperformed Sony, even after 20x the charge cycles of the OEM.
I've had great luck with Rav Power in both my Sony a6000s and my Canon 6D and 7D. I've found the Tamron FF 24-70/f 2.8 and 70-200/f2.8. The 70-200 does a pretty good job on the Canon 7D.
Not sure that the battery thing is as bad as they are saying today....maybe several years ago....sure,...but nowadays the cheap terrible batteries of yesteryear have been shunned, that now third party battery manufacturers are producing better equivalents and trying to promote their own name, and can’t do that if they produce junk. The price of aftermarket batteries have risen somewhat because good batteries cost more to produce then cheap junk batteries. Check reviews, and unless you get an individual clunker, they seem to be a quite adequate replacement to OE batteries.
I have had MANY bad experiences with 3rd party batteries, Wasabi included (one that swelled to the point of being stuck in the camera). Life-time decreasing severely with use... etc. ...
@@BrunoChalifour yikes! Yeah, wasabi was a big no for me too!! Sorry it was that extreme a failure for your system! A nightmare.
screw that, in life do not skimp on expenses with anything to do with batteries , power cables, chargers, power adapters and shoes. It is not worth it,.
Tony and Chelsea, I just wanna say that I love your videos. You guys put so much work into them and you passion really shines right through. I'm a new photographer and still have much to learn, but I have gained so much from your videos and podcasts. Keep up the good work!!
My experience which shocked and annoyed me. I'm a duffer who had been away from photography for years. Had a Canon AE-1 whihc was not a pro-body but, drop down a flight of stairs, take pictures in a hurricane, drop in the toilet (kidding on the last one, but you get the point) and it worked! When I got back into photography, the loose definition of "weather-proof" shocked me. Bought a crop sensor Rebel, worked for about a year, and then there was a slight mist... got it fixed, got it fixed again - figured it was a lemon and bought a newer "low" price Rebel T6i - same thing in a matter of months! Not a knock on Canon, just a knock on me for not knowing what the current definition of "weather-proof" is. An expensive lesson in the "death by 1000 cuts" type of way; bodies and repairs at reasonable prices added up to the cost of a pro-level full frame.
Love that AE-1! A game changer that transformed photography forever. I've still got mine -- prominently displayed on a shelf in my office.
About the 3rd party battery talk: I've found PowerExtra to make great replacement batteries. I have 8 of their LP-E6 ones and 2 of them are now 4 years old and still going just a strong as the Canon ones.
For me, PowerExtra is okay for the money - I have found it to be 65-75% of the performance for 25% of the cost! I use PowerExtra batts for non-client work all the time, and use OEM for when it matters. For the money, there’s nothing wrong with having a bag full of PowerExtra LP-E6 spares!
I have had less success with Kastar and BM LP-E6 which tended to have around 50% or less of the performance, although BM’s LP-E6nh version is much better and gives you high frame rate+ performance on the R5 and R6 for 60-100% battery levels.
I usually just get a battery bank and USB in and that adds a lot more power
I usually carry 1-3 10,000 milliamp batteries
That gives most hand held cameras between 3-6 extra hours of battery life
@@Gregorioux I agree with external batteries and banks as long as you can securely rig it up or have the camera more or less stationary. On canon mirrorless unfortunately, the power delivery to USB-C requirements are quite specific and high wattage, plus the fact that some photogs prefer the ergonomics, water resistance and ruggedness of not having any tethers or cables plugged in. I personally would be fearful of breaking a port or losing power at a critical moment, especially since I run and gun events and shoot and change rapidly between 2-3 bodies.
@@mxilplict I mean
Having a cable hanging off your camera or pocket is suboptimal
But I do agree
Breaking ports and loosing weather resistance is definitely a caveat,
Though sometimes you can only do $20-30 and that can get you 2-4 times more recording time/power than an extra battery or two, especially the name brand ones
Like anything, you’re right there’s pros and cons
And sometimes you end up paying more for the cheaper option
@@mxilplict I've done a few tests myself over the years because I've been wary of third party batteries too. I've tried a bunch of different brands, no name white label ones, Wassabie Power, Power Extra, even the Duracell ones, etc. Ultimately at the end of the day the OEM batteries from the camera manufacturer will most likely be the best bet in the long run, but the results I've gotten from PowerExtra have been very competitive compared to the OEM and miles better than all the other 3rd party ones. Out of the box, in a side by side test with a brand new LP-E6 from Canon and an LP-E6 from PowerExtra, in two EOS R's recording 4K24p, the PowerExtra gets about 15-20 minutes longer runtime than the Canon. For my 2 Power Extra ones that are 4 years old, compared to my Canon ones that are 4 years old, the Canons only beat them by 10 minutes. Long story short, with those results being within margin of error, I'd rather have 8 of the PowerExtra batteries in my bag than 3 of the Canon for the same price. I'm waiting for one of them to die so I can crack it open to see what kind of cells they are using, I know Canon uses Panasonic cells, I wouldn't be surprised if PowerExtra is also using Panasonic cells, or Samsung, or Sony. Either way, I believe they are reliable enough to use professionally. I'm a DP and I work in reality television, I have a rule on set that we change batteries at the first chance we get once they dip below 50%. Thats not because I'm worried about a battery dying unexpectedly its because I always want my camera guys to have enough juice to keep going if we're caught in a mission critical moment.
Great vid and some really excellent advice. The only point I’d debate is FF lenses on APS bodies. Certainly I’ve found the D500 with a 300PF with a 1.4TC or a 200-500mm Nikon lens works brilliantly. Maybe these are the exceptions rather than the rul?
I agree.
Set up and ex with a D500 and all FF lenses so when she moved up she'd have great glass. She never had an issue.
I think they are correct with average consumer body’s between FF and crop......but flagships like D500 with great sensors and processors, and added reach, it’s a mute point.
I totally agree. I would like anyone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality should be better as the camera is only using the center of the circle of light.
@@BrunoChalifour Exactly. There is no technical reason why a lens on APS-C should perform worse than on a FF.
Yes, "exception". Typical examples of "FF lens on APS C being a bad idea" would be my Sigma 14/3.5 or 24/1.8 or buying an expensive bulky wide FF zoom instead of a significantly cheaper APS counterpart, like a good kit zoom or a 12-24/4, that could still take pictures while you are saving up for 2nd & 3rd FF bodies. 50mm and up FF lenses might be OK (I'm happy with mine but didn't invest in high res crop bodies. Mediocre glass on FF seemed more appealing.)
The Canon EOS R and RP is my backup camera. This duo has worked so well for me in my business. When the R5 & R6 came out, I felt like there was no need for me to upgrade to those cameras when my current two were completely fine. I won’t make anymore money using those cameras. I invested in the RF glass instead.
APS-C bodies only with APS-C lenses otherwise the quality is degraded? Sorry I have to write it but this is a complete nonsense without any technical reasons or explanations. Before swithing to fullframe years ago, I was using bunch of FF lenses on a Canon APS-C cameras. 50/1.4, 85/1.4, 135/2.0 and from the technical point of view I had great pictures with them. The only limitations were the resolution capabilities of each glass vs pixel pitch and AA filter strength of each particular sensor. And some of the flaws of FF lenses were even less noticeable on the APS-C than on the FF - such as vigneting, corner distortions, PF and CA.
You should realize that lens do not know what sensor size is behind them and they just perform as they perform. No matter if they draw a picture on APS-C or FF. Of course APS-C naturally tend to have smaller pixel sizes when compared to the same resolution FF but is an issue of the sensor not the lens or sensor size.
I totally agree about using FF on a APS-C body. The opinion stated in the video sounds quite unfounded to me. I would like someone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of the ultimate result, image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality with an FF lens should be better as the APS-C camera is only using the center of the circle of light). The vast majority of lenses are designed and built for the same resolution whether FF or APS-C. In fact APS-C cameras only use the center of FF lenses' circle of light, as a consequence they have almost no vignetting and better corner resolution at wide apertures.
I was taken in by the beautiful Fuji bodies and lenses. I was a Canon user with EOS Pro bodies and L glass. Canon was not in the mirrorless market.
I bought an pair of XT-3 bodies, a holy trinity set of glass plus a couple of primes and the 100-400 as well as some Fuji flashes.
I just didn’t love it. The images could be amazing but I never felt the Fuji was a seamless extension of myself. I was always fussing with the controls and the wonky menu system. I continued to use my Canon gear too and almost always used it for paid event photography.
On a whim, I picked up Canon RP with the RF 24-105 f4L. I knew in an instant I was going to remain a Canon shooter and more specifically, a Canon Mirrorless shooter.
Right after the R6 and R5 were released, I did a complete swap of the Fuji gear, Canon DSLRs and almost all of the Canon EF glass keeping just the 200 f2 and the 400 f4 DO II.
I couldn’t be happier. However my bank account took a bit of a hit with my sidestep to Fuji.
Great story of matching your technical needs with your emotional sensibilities with your gear. If you play golf you know the feeling you get standing over the ball with a particular brand of club vs another brand. (I get that warm feeling with Taylor Made gear, but others get it with Ping or Titleist or something else. I can't hit a Ping club to save my life!). That feeling of the gear being an extension of yourself is priceless.
I use third-party batterys for a long time with my Sony A6600. Of course they have only around 80% of the capacity. But they work for a long time and 2 batterys costs a third of one original battery. And they put a charger on top of the package which works very reliable.
Yes, I would prefer to have a half-dozen 3rd party batteries that have 50% capacity than two OEM batteries. It's also why I buy cheap MicroCenter SD cards -- I'm not shooting the Super Bowl from the end zone with a 30 fps camera, so they suit me just fine.
Again, every photographer has different needs and priorities, and purchase decisions should be based on those.
If you are a loyal watcher of T and C, you know that their advice varies over time (kind of like Fauci's advice) 😊
Most folks that buy a low end body don’t buy high end glass .
Usually FF glass is phenomenal on apsc bodies because you get the best part of the lens quality within the apsc circle of light but not always.
And I now realize on the Micro four thirds with the metabones adapter why we are getting flaring . Thanks for that tip .
I totally agree about using FF on a APS-C body. The opinion stated in the video sounds quite unfounded to me. I would like someone to explain to me what are the problems with using a FF lens on an APS-C camera in terms of image quality (it sounds in fact that the quality should be better as the camera is only using the center of the circle of light.
@@BrunoChalifour if we are talking 50 & 100mm macro lenses, yes they are great. If you want an APS wide, the FF lens will be super wide, catch light sources you don't see in your view finder and flare and its maker sacrificed resolution for image circle. The latter is a bearable compromise on a low resolution FF sensor but not on high res APS. Try it out or dive into DxO mark's PMP ratings. I own no Pentax / k-mount FF wide, that would shine on APS. Even the ZM 21/2.8 doesn't really impress me on APS-H.
If you want to enjoy a cheap old 70-300 film zoom, better get an early FF beater to go with it.
Sony buyers, “I spent all my money on my camera body and can’t afford lenses”, enter the $15 lens adapter and a pile of old Nikon glass.
yup, I've done that too on Fujifilm. Just recently made the first purchase towards a fully autofocused lens lineup, though I'll probably buy the Viltrox 1.4s instead of the Fujis because they're still too expensive for me anyway
Lots of great manual lenses
I only buy manual focus lens, usually Nikon, with this pattern: When buying lens on Ebay, make sure the buyer commits to clean aperture, smooth focus (and Zoom), no scratches, haze, fungus or balsam separation. Send the seller a message if it's not clear in the ad and make sure you get a message in Ebay, not email. The main sellers from Japan will always state this. Never rely on photos for optics quality. If the lens you receive does not match what the seller stated, you can return it, and do so at the sellers expense, regardless of what their ad says. You may have to file a buyers complaint with Ebay, but if you are reasonable, you will win. What I often do when I receive a problem lens is take the high value of the lens if it had been freshly CLA'd, subtract what I suspect a CLA will cost, and then offer to buy at that price. If the seller offers an appropriate refund, I'll then have the lens CLA'd and end up with a lens that should last a long time. If there was a problem with a modern Fujifilm lens, for instance, I would just send it back. See Tony's grey market warning.
I run a D800e and a senior friend of mine says - I have some wonderful old lenses in the upstairs in a box - so I went up and got them - Olympus OM , broke my heart - then she said - look in the bottom and there is an "F" mount adapter . Have to do everything Manual - and manual focus but I shoot that way anyhow - they are sharp as a tack - made in the late 60's , early 70's I'm told . Great video ! Enjoyed it !!!
Oh Chelsea and Tony! , this was so relevant to me and I just don’t know what to do! As you may remember, I’ve been following all your FB, Books, Reviews and been a Stunner forever! Here’s my situation… 1. I am not a techie. 2. I used Canon since I began serious photography. 3. I liked my Canon 6D MK 2, the fourth Canon I owned. Then a Lumix Ambassador suggested an S5, with a 24-70 pro lens. I got excited and bought it. Cdn.$5,000 approx. Well after 9 months I’m still struggling. It’s so complicated. Half of me says “persevere”, you’ve spent the money. The other half says “cut your losses and buy a Canon R6”. I don’t make videos. And the voice on my shoulder says try a new hobby you’ll never be a photographer. (My main interest is macro). Any advice for someone whose budget is limited and who is on the point of quitting! Thanks!
Don't quit! Even the struggle is worthwhile. The journey is its own reward.
@@timothylatour4977 thank you! I’m trying but it’s difficult when you’re in your 80s and haven’t been brought up with anything technical! I am not a quitter and will keep taking little bites until I figure out what I need to know!
I have the opposite of 'confirmation bias' - I spend hours researching something until I'm sure it will be good, AND then when I get it, complain endlessly about how disappointed I am because it didn't hold up to my high expectations. LOL. A frustrating bad habit to have. I agree with buying just what you need and maybe buying two cameras for different tasks - especially if you can get one cheap-ish. However, I really struggle to do this, as I keep mentally spending incrementally more for slight gains, until I eventually buy that expensive version that is more than I need...
thanks for this. All my DSLR bodies are used: Canon 40D, 5D (orig) 7D (orig) and 70D. I have lenses that span 10mm to 400mm, most are secondhand. Have rarely been disappointed buying gear via ebay.
i have bought 4 items of grey equipment. The first was a Nikon 70-200 f2.8. it was defective on arrival. I had a hell of a job trying to get a refund Ebay 8 yrs ago. The next was a Tokina zoom lens, that was defective on arrival the quality of the photos were appaling. It was as thougn it was a cheap copy not a proper Tokina. That went back to Digital Rev for a full refund. Last try was a Nikon D500 from Panamoz, the viewfinder was defective, it had hundreds of tine little silver speckless all over(in the glass pentaprism) and would not show the image in foucus properly. That went back for a full refund. I think people get conned with this grey import thing by thinking that VAT or exices duties are not being paid on these items. I think that is untrue and that all the duties are paid but the cameras have failed the quality tests and are passed off through the grey market cheap(the fools think duty is being avoided when it's not). Ask any of these grey importers how they can sell cameras cheaper than the genuine market and none of them will tell you. And don't think they would not tell you they avoid the duty because the tax man might find out. The tax man is fully aware of all the grey's being imported and knows all the taxes are paid. If you use genuine dealers which I do now, you don't get battery problems, front/back focusing issues, lens coupling issues and more. Just go on some of the forums and read were people are complaining about these sort of problems and when you ask were they got the camera from it's nearly always a grey. If you are a proper photographer who wants to just go and take photos with reliable gear DON'T but greys, they are cheap for a reason. Some amatures will not even realise their grey is defective.
When I decided to go mirrorless to replace my old 5DII I was looking at the available lenses first for FF mirrorless systems. For travel and generic shooting I like the 24-105 range, so to be able to get such a lens was crucial. Thus, Nikon was out. Taking photos should be fun, I borrowed a Sony and I couldn't get around the ergonomics (maybe I'm too much used to Canon). Sony was out.
One more idea relates to the Theory of Dust Collection: essentially what that means is, if you purchase photo equipment but it sits idle for very long periods of time (gathering dust), then you have purchased 'bad gear'. In other words, any gear is a bad buy unless it is actually going to be used. THAT is where the value is measured.
Rest assured, there is a lot of equipment that gets purchased with a lot of emotion, and that emotion drains away quickly. Not unlike the associated wallet.
Not sure I agree on the Mix and Match so much. For professional photographers, sure, but as an amateur, you are working within a tight budget and there is no "return on investment". This is a hobby and you buy the best you can, when you can. Frankenstein it if you have to.
I got my first DSLR in 2004 (Nikon D70) then upgraded in 2011 (D7000) and 2021 (D850). I wanted to move to full frame in 2011, but at the time, the D7000 had video, whilst the Full frame of the time (D700) did not. Yes ... as Tony said, I always said that I would move to full frame, but years later .... 17 years....I finally did.
My first few lenses were the Kit lens (18-70) the "Nifty Fifty" 50/1.8 and a trashy 70-300 - why? Because they were cheap and it's all I could afford at the time.
As I took photography more seriously, I started to invest, slowly, one lens at a time, in only FX glass. If I had bought DX only glass, then that eventual step up to an FX camera would have been prohibitive. Now I have my D850 along with a 50/1.8, a 24/1.8, a 105/2.8 micro and an 80-200/2.8. It all matches now, but I was playing the long game, and I do not need to throw away or replace any old DX glass.
1 - Could I have sold the old gear? Not really. My wife uses a D5200 and my 12yo daughter borrows the D7000. They have a few DX lenses and I've given them the 18-70. I miss the upgrade funds, but the lenses are not wasted.
2 - Why not go mirrorless in in 2021? I did not even consider it. Tried it a few years ago, and the poor EVF and low battery life were a no go. The new Nikon Mark II line up looks awesome, and maybe I should have waited a year .... but then again, compared to a D850, the Z7MkII + an FTZ adapter would have been cost prohibitive. The D850 and all my glass will still be good for another 10 years :)
I've had pretty good luck with after market batteries. I was able to buy 8 batteries for the price of 1 Canon. Though I did notice different brands are better than others. I've had good luck with Wasabi batteries. You can't recharge them as many times as the Canon ones and they show a noticeable decrease before they fail, but cost to benefit for a hobbiest is worth it to me. Especially because I left a Canon battery in my pants when I put them in the wash. I'd rather destroy a $10 battery than an $80 one. I'm just a hobbyist though, I don't have the pro experience to know if the little extra reliability of an OEM battery makes that big of a difference on a paid shoot.
Grey market lenses and cameras are not usually a couple hundred dollars less expensive, the difference in price can be upwards of $1000+ depending on what you're buying. Now, a good example on this, is the Canon dealership in my country. Their EF glass and body prices are terrible and well above MSRP anywhere else in the world (don't let me even start talking about RF glass and bodies)! So when I used to shoot with Canon, all my gear (L lenses, accessories, and pro bodies) were 100% grey market and I saved easily more than $10,000 in the gear acquisition process. The gear remained fantastic until the day I sold it after about 10 years and I didn't lose much in terms of resale value because I didn't buy it for crazy money either.
The only mistake I think I made purchasing a camera was before my DSLR days, it was actually a point and shoot Nikon Coolpix P50. I only bought it because of the wide angle lens it had, but the picture quality, the high ISO performance, the processor, the optical zoom, and even the shutter button (at a later stage) where a terrible experience compared to a Sony Cyber Shot DSC-W150 that I had around the same time. I ended up giving it to my 8 years old niece so she can learn how to compose shots with it. Thankfully, I did my home work well before all serious gear purchases that I made and didn't have a single regret.
I have bought grey Nikon everything. Saved ££££ Here in the UK it is a right rip-off how much extra is charged, not just on cameras, but everything. The retailers I purchased from did not disclose they were grey (naughty but I knew they were buy the price difference). They did offer their own UK warranty. I have never had to use it, so don't know how good it would be. Maybe other peeps have?
I managed to damage as SD card slot on one camera, I dropped it off at Nikon service in SW London (alas they have moved and drop-off is no longer possible, only post) and collected it a while later, no issues with repair, only a large bill for a complete new board. (It was out of warranty by that time anyway and my fault for using a cheap micro USB adaptor)
I requested the old board back and it looks a simple repair as the SD card slot is just a standard surface mount component.
I liked the tip: know the type of photography you want to do before buying any camera systems beyond an entry-level camera
I am exclusively using old EF or vintage Helios or sigma lenses on my Canon RP and it works perfectly. Actually going from 1100D to RP with adapter has actually made my EF lenses even better so seriously adapters can be a good thing.
It is fantastic how well the EF-RF adapter works, makes my creaky old EF 50mm f1.4 actually usable 😂
@@thehobnob do you think it is better than the rf 50mm f1.8 stm?
@@RandomGuy-qn2fr in terms of sharpness? I doubt it, it’s pretty soft wide open (then again it is a lens design from the mid 90s!)
@@thehobnob thanks for the reply. I been up on the fence on which one I should get
Canon lenses have a USA Warranty card with a serial number that matches the lens. Gray market lenses don’t have this card.
But when you buy used, you don't get a card of any kind
@@rocksandoil2241 If you buy it used, you don’t qualify for Warranty service and you don’t have an original proof of purchase receipt either.
On using third party - I use third-party batteries produced by RavPower and ArtMan for my Canon mirrorless. To be honest they work great. Never had an issue. Third party flashes? Flashpoint are really great. Third party lenses? Depending on the specific lens, third party can be better. Tamron SP 35mm f/1.4 is one of the best 35mm primes on the market. And Sigma’s 135mm f/1.8 is the best there is at that focal length.
If you’re a Nikon nps member just ask for the serial number and add it to your gear list. It will either give the green checkmark indicating that’s it’s a USA model or it will give an error.
Go to squarespace.com/Chelsea & save 10% off your first website or domain with code “Chelsea”
UPDATE: Nikon gear, regardless whether its a body or lens, with a serial number that begins with the number 3 indicates that it will not be serviced in the US (thanks Rob!)
Do they do fulfillment as well, or is that something I'd have to do?
Nice video
I switched to full frame after few years of shooting APS-C (Sony), but kept all the lenses and bodies I had. It's always nice to have a second camera. And it also gives more flexibility. In some scenarios lighter camera or higher reach is preferable, in other - wider angle, better bokeh, or better low light capabilities.
I mean, switching to full frame not always requires selling the old stuff.
True. I have a bunch of lenses and two APS-C dslrs which I use most of the time, but I decided to get a D700 for a cheap full frame because I wanted to get no crop factor with certain lenses. Also the D700 has better low light performance vs my other APS-C dslrs.
@@alexs.818 my cameras of choice were a6300 and A7III. Once I drowned a6300 in sea water, but I didn't even think to replace it with another FF, because of flexibility this combo gives.
Now I have a6600+A7III, that works even better for me, cause of the same color science they use. They not only do share lenses sometimes now, but also batteries.
Know what you mean about 3rd party lenses, many many years ago I had a Rollie SL35E with a Tamron 17mm full frame fisheye that delivered stunning results on ilfochrome 200 (later used Fuji as I couldn't get the ilfochrome) so when I purchased my Nikon D7200 a while ago I bought a Tamron 10-24mm lens as I had good results from a previous Tamron lens. The results though were ok, not great, lacking in saturation so, I bought a Nikkor 10-24mm lens and the difference was marked, better colours, better saturation, all told a much better lens so even with previous good experience you cannot always rely on consistent results from the same manufacturer.
Informative video. If there is one thing I kind of disagree with is buying full frame lenses for APS-C body. Some good quality, decently priced full frame lenses (especially primes) are quite good on APS-C body because of the maximum corner sharpness and less amount of vignetting.
Tell me if I am wrong, but I am looking for a first DSLR strictly for landscape, streetscape and nightscape photography. That's it. I will NEVER use it now, or in the future, for video. Ever. What I am finding that really drives the prices on DSLRs is video capabilities. That's how they're marketed. That's what you pay for. I don't want a digital camera for that, I want to make art. So... what do you recommend for my specific needs? Right now I am leaning towards just going back to film because I don't want to pay $$$$$ for a camera made for vlogging that also shoots pictures.
There are specs for viewfinder latency... Also when shooting BIF turn off the IBIS and lens stabilization - This can cause significant shift of the image and it's not helpful in anycase with a moving subject. When shooting my G9 with a red dot sight and Dual-IBIS on, the captured frame of a moving bird or plane lags the boresight by half the width of the frame.
This video would be very useful for me a year ago, I bought a full frame sony camera and didn't know about the meaning of APS-C lens thought is was just about the field of view and later I understood that the resolution of my images was divided by 2! 🙄
Generally adapters have no extra lens (no lens included at all) included they just (and only) increase the distance between some lenses and some camera so that the lens can work with the camera,... so flare is never a problem with a "real" adapter. The issue is communication between camera and lens. Most (and simple) adapters do not include electrical communication between lens and camera. They are simple and work (but you have to expect manual focusing). There are different brands and obviously different qualities. Now it is true that top brand lenses are specifically designed for their specific brand of camera, they work better together and bring peace of mind, but there are also other situations... and adapters help people use the same lens with different cameras.
Best to go to a camera shop to handle the camera. Be clear what you want to use it for. Decide the must have features. I got my M50 for the viewfinder the mike jack good autofocus and the articulating screen. You may have different requirements.
In the old days, the lens was "independent" from the body. Now, it is an integrated system, with Auto Focus, and Stabilization. Especially in body and lens stabilization working together.
My problem is that I don't know which used camera's are best for what purposes. There are so many different Nikon and Canon models. I would like some sort of map on what model lines are good for what.
Good luck! It's a jungle out there!😂
spend a little extra for good tripod. cheap ones will make 5 mph breeze can make you camera feel its in a hurricane
The modern crop of Sigma and Tamron lenses leave very little to be desired and there are many unique lenses that the first party camera companies don’t make themselves.
Yup - they’ve caught up on Sony E-mount! Now about those RF versions…
I often wonder how well my 24-105 Sony G Master lens works with a first generation Sony First generation A7 camera. I suspect it doesn’t pair well (pricy mistake) the A7 doesn’t seem have the processing power. Sony later models seem to be paired with the later G- Master lens.
Before the G-master lens came out the Kit lens and my favorite F28mm prime seem to be better then that big heavy G-Master lens. The auto focus seems to be sluggish on the G-Master A7 combination and that big lens wants to use a tri-pod which is an issue on fast moving in travel tours and street photography. I believe this goes to your main point about gear. “You get better results with a proper pairing of camera and lens” Take into consideration how you use your gear before purchasing. Cheers Richard.
Just my 2c on grey market. There are reputable grey market sellers who have a long history of honouring "seller warranty" repairs. The prices are often cheaper than used as well, which given you have a usable warranty, is new and is cheaper, it almost makes no sense to not go grey market.
My biggest buy mistake was buying a camcorder when I should have bought a DSLR, back in 2011
So I decided to buy a higher end consumer camcorder (Panasonic TM750) because I focused mainly on video creation and wanted to make short films. But I had doubts that I should have bought a Canon T2i instead. My reason for this was that video on DSLR was still new and there was lots of things lacking such as Autofocus, Video Stabilization, Smooth Zooming, Battery Life, More than 30 min recording limit, etc. The second reason was that it would cost me more money to buy multiple lenses and I would have to keep switching lenses as I change zooms.
So a camcorder made more sense to me for the budget, and capabilities. And in ways this was a great tool which I did use for many trips, vlogs, events, etc.
Why DSLR:
However, It was not great for cinematic film making which is what I mainly wanted to use it for. I saw people making more interesting and better content with T2i that what I was able to make because of their ability to change to different lenses for better looks, control the camera setting for more control, better noise control in low light situations, and 24p mode not creating jitter. Things I cannot do with my camcorder. Though their camera did not have stabilization, autofocus, or smooth zooming and they had to carry a bunch of batteries with portable audio recorders, they worked around those limitations and produced better results at the end.
My Camcorder Concerns:
My purchase really ended up being a more convenient camera with false manual control. Meaning It's good all around and easy to take with you but you cant adapt it to specific scenarios or shots. False manual control was another problem. I could add on a wide or macro lens to the front, but not replace the built in lens. The camera had controls for Shutter Speed, Aperture (Iris), and White Balance, but not ISO and it did it very poorly too. Also the 24p was actually 59.94i which convert it to 29.97 and used detelecine to convert it to 23.976. This created jitter when I rendered it out with software making it difficult to edit films. The codec was also a bit of a pain at first since it was using a proprietary AVCHD which is some type of MPEG4 with H.264 wrapped in a MK4 file. At the time every powerful computer could not decode it quickly making the rendering process 14X longer than other formats. But over the years computer architecture and adaption to H.264 removed this problem.
My Alternatives:
My other option was to buy a Pro Camcorder which would have more proper manuals features, But they were all very expensive for me at the time and all were lacking a balance in essential features. The other option which I should have taken was to buy a DLSR camera that recorded in SD video and some used lenses and learned to use that as the quirks worked out and in the meantime learned better photography at the time along side.
I did not want to buy the DSLR because taking the lenses, memory cards, and batteries into account it was too expensive for me so I opted for a less expensive all rounded options. My camera was well rounded for everything other than making cinematic films on a low budget, which is exactly what I was aiming for and did not get. What a bummer and in some ways a regret.
Now after all these years once the tech has matured, I am searching to upgrade to a new camera system. This time it will be a DSLR for both video and photos.
Don't buy a DSLR in 2021 if video is a priority. Get a mirrorless camera, or a higher end camcorder with interchangeable lenses.
@@borderlands6606 yes now I will be getting the mirrorless camera. In fact I my aim is for the Sony A7iv after the reviews come out. I like the A7iii but it's a bit overkill for me and I also want something good for photos as well. The A7iv seems like it would be the best balance along with all the improvements Sony made over the years with its cameras. canon is another great ecosystem but I am not sure about them yet for video. They need some catching up to do.
i had a sony a7ii but the eye AF never really worked fast enough for action photos, eg competitive ballroom dancing. so i changed to the A6400 as it uses the latest eye AF used on the A9. my images went up to 95% in focus. i wanted an 85mm lens or 105mm 1.8 lens which are not available for APSC so i bought a full frame 85mm Zeiss Batis which gave me awesome results. i know it gives 127mm f2.7 but this works as i dont have any other prime options for APSC Sony
a 32mpix APS-C camera with a fullframe lens can get excellent results for birding and wildlife
I buy new gear only. I will buy third party accessories and lens but I am picky about the brand, buying mostly based on previous experience. For certain items such as adapters, batteries, and remotes I buy camera manufacturer only as I have found 3rd party are hit or miss.
As someone who has been shooting for many years, I agree there is no perfect camera or perfect lens. Your advice to figure out what camera and lens work best for you is spot on.
I am surprised you did not recommend renting the camera and or lens you decided on before buying, for a few hundred bucks on very expensive gear you can get it and try it for 3days to a week and see if it is really what you want. I have done that on 2 of the lenses I bought after the kit lens-- Worked well for me.
Yes, I think that is excellent advice before making an expensive purchase. We test drive cars, don't we?
@@timothylatour4977 It doesn't cost anything to test drive a car. Renting equipment adds too much to the purchase price if you are not a pro.
Something similar happened to me when I purchased my Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens. I went through Amazon, The vendor I picked had the same price as others and said the lens came with Tamron's warranty.
Except when I went to register the lens, Tamron would not accept the registration, saying I bought it from a camera shop that was not a licensed Tamron dealer.
They wanted to keep 20 percent of my payment as a restocking fee, so I decided to keep the lens -- without the warranty. I also complained to Amazon, which did remove that vendor's Tamron lens listings.
I hope I don't ever need the warranty.
Good video!
Now I have been buying quite some used gear, but always from sellers around where I live so that I can test before buying.
Recently bought a new camera. Spent hours in a store discussing with store employees and customers + handling the gear.
I very nice experience
I was a landscape photographer until Covid I used a Pentax K70 for photography. I started walking the beach and started doing bird photography. I upgraded my kit by buying a used a used Pentax K3-11 from KEH camera it has double the focus points of the K70 I also upgraded my lens by buying a new Pentax 55-300 PLM WR lens which has a fast autofocus system. In a few years I may upgrade with the new Pentax K3-3 with a much faster autofocus system when the prices become more reasonable
I agree with your points.
I've been struggling for the last months trying to decide which camera to buy. I used a Nikon D3200 for some years, and now I'm using a Sony RX100 M4, and wanted my next camera to be a Full Frame. But why would I need one? The cheapest FF cameras are somehow limited in terms of specs, and the kit lenses they come with are not what I want. But yet again, why am I struggling trying to pick a FF, when I know I am perfectly comfortable with a APS-C. I know I don't care that much about FPS, I barely shoot sports, I even prefer taking long exposures; I want the camera to have 2 memory slots, but I've had no problems with any camera regarding memory cards. The same applies for the rest of the specs I've read over and over, I want something better, but the camera becomes more expensive, and I may not even need it or use it.
On my first lens purchase, I bought a 5-pin Tamron lens for a D3300, had no idea I needed the 8-pin model in order to have autofocus, nothing I read made that clear, even Tamron's lens compatibility guide. Also, the lens I did get, works 100% fine, but I cringe when I look at the elements and there is dust inside the lens, but doesn't effect image quality, but that's just me. Another thing, I bought my Nikon from a individual, not a company that can repair it with some type of warranty. I did get my moneys worth with an included $200 35mm 1.8 lens, thrown in the deal. But.
Please say what camera and lens was used to shoot this post. The color and detail is impressive. Anything else like resolution would also be helpful.
I know they are using Canon R6 camera. But lens wise I don't remember
I find that for me, My M5 and R6 give comparable quality pics using the same EF L adapted lenses. You may be more critical than me as a keen amateur.
At least the R has a fast viewfinder mode that only works with RF lenses. And some extra features in Manual Focus mode
@@mbr5742 The M5 appears to work OK with EF L lenses. The viewfinder is a bit stow.
What the point here? Could you explain?
Here is a kit comparison issue. The Sony Alpha A6000 sells as a kit with the standard kit lens and also a telephoto zoom. If you look closely, you can get the body with just the kit lens, then purchase the telephoto as a separate item, and it is $50 less!
Welp, a third party battery killed my d4. Im 16 so i didn't wanna spend 240 bucks i didn't have on a battery. I had my d4 in rain and sadly the bl6 didn't close properly. Rain got in and now i have to fix it. No one will touch it with water damage, luckily i build cameras though...
Whoa that sucks.
@@Neopulse00 yeah, i figure I'll just turn it into a d4s. Luckily i have a d600, just got a d3s, a em1, and my school just gave me a gh5 so my d4 isn't my only camera. I just hate how its so expensive to fix (d3300 motherboard is 50 bucks and the d4s is 700)
Just got a new Canon D90 to replace my Canon 450D (which still looks and works as good as new), I’ll never use most of its features. Mirrorless was a big no for me, spend enough time at work looking at computer screens, my hobby is about getting out and not looking at computer screens. Looked around and bought Canon macro, wide angle and telephoto lens 2nd hand, and heavily reduced(damaged box!). With my limited skills I couldn’t see the point of going full frame, if I do my some miracle of god start taking decent photos and feel the need to upgrade, I think medium format will be the way to go. I really wanted a camera with a split focusing screen to have the option to manually focus, but its auto focusing all the way down now.
I just today had a good experience from eBay. A seller had two Canon 580EX flashes up for sale saying each needed some repair (yeah, I know but I wanted another flash I was already familiar with.) We've got a guy nearby who is a whiz with Canon products so I made an offer of $20.00 for both. They arrived today and one was a corrosion mess in the battery compartment. No wonder it wouldn't power up! A few minutes with some white vinegar and silicone grease and it powered up just fine. The other had a problem with the flash head. It would "tilt" but not "pan." Huh? He apparently hadn't bothered to read the manual. On the 550EX there are two separate buttons for those head movements. On the 580EX just one. Push that button and it tilts and pans just fine. I'm sure there's a lesson here but I'm not going to tell him. 😇
I nodded my head with everything you said until you mentioned 3rd party lenses. I would say get quality third party lenses. For example, I have the Sigma 150 - 600 Sport for full frame. Now if Canon comes out with something weird and new in terms of autofocusing I will probably be able to use the docking system to upgrade the Sigma lens autofocusing feature. Same with flashes, Metz flashes can be upgraded through an internet download, so why not.
Have you needed to repair that 150-600mm at all? I've been looking at long zooms recently and have considered that lens.
@@DCPhoto4 My lens has been fine. Before you purchase the Sport model, also check out the Contemporary model as well, it is lighter in weight and cheaper in price. The Sport model is definitely heavier and designed for rugged use. The optics on both models are pretty much the same. If I were buying again, I'd get the Contemporary. And if it doesn't marry well with your camera, a bit of soft focus, you can always purchase the docking station for Sigma to make adjustments to the lens.
Great as usual. After nearly 40 years using SLRS and DSLRS, My biggest mistake was going micro4/3 to cut weight, not because of sensor size but because of really terrible autofocus. Still, with experience in ancient manual focus, starting with an SRT-101, and practice with the touch screen, I overcome. I then got a good cellphone camera and now rarely use the camera. I’m thinking of getting a new camera with eye detect since all cameras seem much more manageable in weight, but I often think why bother when my cellphone pictures with a little processing are sharper than many of the great photos of the past. Oh, what to do? I am a gear head so be sure I will eventually buy more stuff. Keep up the incredible work. You guys are the best.
Yeah I'm pretty unhappy with the iPhone 14 pro after shooting only with Sony gear for many years. I would never consider using my phone with my old android. I thought that the newer iPhone would be able to replace the old A6000 and it's tiny kit lens that I kept in my purse. I should have just bought a cheap phone and continued to use the A6000.
14:00 - 100% agree that not every consumer needs the latest and greatest. I'm trying to buy a Nikon from 2013 or another from 4+ years ago.
I've had some buyers remorse over lenses I've bought. In particular buying a Nikon 55-300mm because it was cheap rather than buying a 80-400mm or 200-500mm or even a Sigma 60-600mm.
Ken Rockwell has been beating the "don't use adapted lenses" for decades.
With EOS M and EOS R adapting is no problem. The "they are slower than on the DSLR" is wrong. Yes, some RF lenses are faster than adapted EF. Simply because they are more modern. Sometimes by over a decade.
There are a lot of people who would like to beat Ken Rockwell.......
for me i will never use adapters again, if it is not a dumb adatper without electronics i will not buy it ever again. We adapted a Irix lens so the adapter only controlled the Iris. We tested it a couple of times then we had to do a timelapse and in the middle of the night the camera bugged and opened the iris, a day of work completely gone and we had so much stress to keep up... the other thing is incompatible lenses. We had MANY adapters, sigma mc, metabones etc. and the sigma internals simply shorted out because we used a incomatible lens. Metabones speedbooster Sony A to Sony E... it does not get easier. the Lenses stuttered, missed focus, it was horrible... now i will only use native or fully manual lenses... that is a reason why i completely dith canon ... the bigger cinema bodies still have ef mount, but ef mount is dead, the smaller have rf mount but are apsc and rf apsc do not exist and using typical fullframe lenses means you have the strangest focal lenghts on the body. etc. ... Fun fact, many are upgrading to fx9 andfx6 right now because they are full frame and have amazing AF and i so often read about using apsc lenses or adapting ef lenses... they are destroying everything they just upgraded to ... :D strange
I used to own a sigma 24-105 which exhibited consistently unreliable autofocus in 'standard' mode. However, it NEVER missed focus in live view.
Sounds like a focus problem in the camera, assuming it had an OVF. A persistent problem and complaint. Micro-adjustment would probably help.
D500 from B&H currently selling for &1,596.00. Just bought one and I love it....my first high-end DSLR. Purchased for wildlife photography. Will use this camera with the Nikon 200-500 5.6.
I bought a Canon 5DsR. Don't get me wrong the camera is insane, but I just didn't need any of the features and I ended up selling it and sticking with my 6D.
I mostly shoot handheld macro and it was really difficult to avoid motion blur on the 50mp. The shots I nailed had detail down to the pixel but being a pixel peeper I couldn't help but look at every shot closely, even if I didn't need to crop and reject what would probably be an otherwise good photo when scaled.
Also, when shooting on 50mp I tend to get lazy and not thing about framing, step back a bit and think "I'll come up with a crop in post". On the 6D's 20mp it only has about 30% max crop before 4K so the shots matter a little more.
Hi Tony & Chelsea,
A few points:
Grey market can be a LOT cheaper.. You're right to point out the warranty issues, but I too have bought mostly Grey market and have not had issues, or have had the lenses/cameras repaired at independent repair centres (cheaper than Nikon!)
Adapted lenses are GREAT. Finally I can choose ONE body (Nikon Z7ii) and use all the greatest lenses from ALL manufacturers.. including older MF lenses, Canon L lenses etc etc.. Sure, the adapters may make the lenses slower, but just think of the simplicity.. one body to learn and know how to use, and using specific lenses for the image you need to create. Nikon traditionally has better bodies. And Canon with their L glass made some quite amazing lenses with a wider aperture than Nikon.
Thank you guys for being professional enough to account for your mistakes and making it aware too other photographers about being a little more cautious when purchasing equipment, especially if it's expensive gear! I wanted to get into mirrorless several years ago but the cost of the lenses were super expensive. To this day, I still shoot with an aps-c camera simply because I like the gear that's readily available for it.
Strange - Baxxtar/Red LP-E6 copies work like a charm. As good as the original, even after years of use
Totally agree regarding forums. I bought a pair of Leica Ultravid binoculars off eBay which turned out to be faulty. Thanks to wrong advice about Leica offering lifetime guarantees, I ended up sending them to Leica. Leica refused to repair them FOC, wanted to charge me 60.00 GBP for a refused estimate then the seller refused to take them back. I would have been out-of pocket had I refused the estimate to the tune of 75.00 GBP (inc postage to Leica in Portugal) ...the repair and service cost me 315.00 GBP. They came back upgraded to new spec and effectively 'as new' condition. So it wasn't quite so bad, they are amazing quality and used often. But if you get wrong advice off forums? Tough !
Grey market.....for the most part....giving the manufacture the serial number, can tell you if it grey or not. One exception I’ve seen is some Nikon lenses even the manufacturers can’t tell you without sending in the lense.....because according to nikon those particular lenses have a identifier inside the lense, this is true likely because the lense outsold the allotment for the country (this case, North America, where the serial numbers usually start with 3), and Nikon supplies what would be out of market serial numbers to Nikon USA dealers, and put a marking into the inside of the lens stating its usa authorized. I do know that Tamron can tell you if it’s usa or grey through serial number via Tamron’s usa’s phone number.
Quite different in the UK. Nikon UK doesn't care where one has purchased the camera/ lens from. However, I would usually use Fixation (UK) London and Manchester. Excellent value, quick, and of course, they use nikon parts. I would like to purchase everything from a camera store (shop) but Hong Kong is so much cheaper.
That is true. I have had on two occasions err message and camera shut down with my EOS R using Sigma A35mm f1.4 and lost a video file for a wedding shoot. Sad!!!
I work with manual focus full frame lenses on APS-C using focal reducers and achieve excellent results.
5:22 I think this can go both ways. I went this route and it worked great for me but I stayed in the Nikon system. I purchased old used fx glass to put on my D90. I didn't buy any bundled kits... Bodies only and lenses only. Ebay was my go-to when I couldn't afford new.
When I eventually got a D700 I didn't stop using the D90 (or the D200, D7000, etc) I'd take both. Having the FX glass meant I didn't have to also buy new lenses which I didn't have the budget for. As I sold more jobs, I made enough to buy better gear and recover faster. At some point I started buying pro bodies so the dx cameras were rotated out but it allowed me to ease into fx with the hassle of selling gear. Being able to get a 80-200mm f2.8 used for the price of a kit lens made me images that would get clients.
Maybe this is good for the hobbyist, but I went in it to make money. I started with nothing, so making very specific choices in gear allowed me to take on more business and grow to the point where my income could afford better gear (which in turn sped up my workflow).
I bought a great D800e camera and a bargin used 28-105mm f3.5-5.5. It turned out the lens probably had been dropped on the floor and was only sharp in the middel and right side, left side is very blurry. The seller would not take it back, and it was too expensive to have it repaired so now I have to stop it down to f8 to get sharp photos over the entire photo. I feel that I dont get full value of my camera even though it works ok, but sometimes my photos from the Iphone seems sharper than from the dslr. It was a bad experience and the conversation with the seller of the lens went all wrong as he claimed that I had damaged the lens, and I should had reacted asap, The lens also has a strange mechancal clicking sound when zooming in.
I bought my most expensive lens from the place with the best price on the Internet. I'd never heard of them before or bought anything from them. They charged me extra for the lens hood, even though that was supposed to come with it, but they threw in an extended warranty for free. The lens was almost half-price at over $1000, and then I dropped it within a month, and it couldn't really focus right after that. Of course, I couldn't get it serviced by the manufacturer, or the warranty company, or anyone else. The company I bought it from disappeared from the Internet, as well. Expensive lesson. Since then, I buy almost all my equipment from a single NYC camera shop that has never let me down.
I borrowed nikon d5100, used it for a while and was totaly satisfied with the results camera produced. But I had to return it, so recently bought used Nikon D7000 + 50mm 1.8d for 240$ and Sigma 17-50/2.8 for 200$. I miss articulating screen a little bit, but with this purchise I got more professional camera(althought a little bit outdated) which fits my needs and I enjoy photography more.
I can't afford a R6 right now. Meanwhile in need of another full frame, I got a used 1DX I to replace my 7D2 for indoor sports - great deal and still a good camera :D Shot pro national league handball with 1DX + 70-200 f/2.8, 6D1 + 300mm f4 L IS and 7D2 + 24-105 f4 MK2. Upgrade plans are 2 x R6 with 70-200 and 300mm f/2.8 as main bodies. The rest will be backup. Amazing what the old 6D can do at 800 lux :D