How to adjust a Fox 36 Grip 2, & WHY I have a black box on my fork!
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- Опубликовано: 12 авг 2020
- #Fox36grip2 #foxgrip2damper
Adjusting the Fox 36 Grip 2 damper can be a little overwhelming, between setting sag, high speed compression, low speed compression, high speed rebound, low speed rebound, and air volume tokens, there are 6 possible items to adjust. Let’s break it down where and how to set the fork up!
Check out the new Fox 36 Grip 2 factory series fork here at Jenson USA (affiliate link) bit.ly/22Fox36Grip2JKW
Ibis Ripmo (affiliate link) is available here: bit.ly/RipmoV22022JKW
First off, look up your Fox ID code here: www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.ph...
Start with setting your sag. I’d recommend using Fox’s guide as a starting point, as I’ve found it to be pretty dang accurate. Feel free to play with sag a little, as Fox specs measurements for both 15 and 20%. Once you’ve got about that, then hit Fox’s recommended high and low speed rebound adjustments for your weight.
Then, move to Fox’s general recommendation of 10 clicks out for high speed compression and 6 clicks out for low speed compression.
After a couple months of riding with the Motion IQ measuring device (bit.ly/MotionInstrumentsJKW), I have found Fox’s high speed rebound recommendation to be really good. High speed is within a click or two of what I’ll land on if I spend time blindly bracketing and adjusting. And honestly, I think most folks will notice the low speed rebound adjustment more often. I will use slightly less low speed rebound than what Fox recommends, as I like a slightly quicker fork rebound than rear shock rebound.
Once you’ve got the rebound damping within your comfort, then move into the compression. I go for as little low speed compression as I can personally stand. While I do pump the bike A LOT, I also really need front wheel traction. I’d rather err on the side of too little low speed compression, and having maximum traction, than the opposite.
Adjusting high speed compression means you’ll need to pay attention the bigger impacts- jump landings and jarring impacts. You want enough high speed compression to minimize bottoming out on jump landings, but not so much that you lose comfort when smashing into roots and rocks.
More info on Motion IQ can be found here: bit.ly/MotionInstrumentsJKW
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Кино
@4:48, note the average % of fork position. Notice the fully closed is 8% vs. 12%. The bike is setting up higher in addition to the fork moving less. Max position was lower in fully closed as well.
Thanks Rob! Looking forwards to trying a rear unit as well!
I don’t even have a Fox fork but I’m still gonna watch the whole thing 🤣
I guess we’re all just tech nerds
Right on Nathan!
Cheers Ethan!
It’s nice to see you appreciate the fork, you are usually on your rear wheel!!😂🤟🏻
Hahaha thanks Pow Finger!
THANK YOU FOR EXPLAINING HIGH AND LOW SPEED COMPRESSION I NEEDED THAT SO MUCH 🙏
You bet A!
thanks Jeff,
Its like you literally read my mind. Just what I needed
This is the best setup video. I can actually understand what things mean!🤘
Well, I actually understand high and low speed compression for the first time. Thank you for that!
Thansk Dennis!
You are the best. I have this fork and was going to ask you for this type of video. Thanks buddy.
Hope you like it! Fox's recommendations are pretty good, if anything, try going less damping!
Suspension is such a fun topic to discuss/learn about! Prob my fav mechanic topic to dive into & glad you’re getting some content out there to help folks out! Also rad you got to play with a Motion Instrument! Need to get my hands on that or a ShockWiz 🤘
More to come Focal! THanks!
Thank you for the very interesting video and Jenson USA for that last crazy SALE - otherwise I wouldn't be able to get my hands on Fox 36 Grip 2.
This was fantastic! One for the books! Thanks gentleman
Thanks man!
Jeff Kendall-Weed Thank you buddy
Thanks for this, wound up with a weird lunch ride setup with a grip 2 so I was pretty lost on setup
Nice video, I think, it’s worth to mention that HSC knob on the 36 (HSC/LSC) only works within the first 16 clicks. After that, it’s without any effect. Second thing is that HSC and LSC affects each other. The harder you make LSC, the faster the HSC valve opens and vice versa. In my opinion it’s therefore important to keep things in balance in order to make both work well.
Great point Pat!
Well that has changed with new 2021 VvC GRiP2 damper✌🏻
"The harder you make LSC, the faster the HSC valve opens and vice versa."
Wrong.
Jeff I was hoping you were going to do the same process with the rebound! I think rebound advice is more critical than comp damping. I could use the help. Thanks!
@@boblatkey7160 Thank you.
Great explanation, well done.....
Just got these ,perfect timing
Congrats T! You'll dig that fork!
Spot on. Need help with my Ripmo build. After five years of riding, suspension still eludes me.
Thanks Joey! Start with the Fox recommendation and go from there. I tend to run a little less low speed rebound than Fox says I should, as well as less low speed compression.
Great stuff Jeff 🚴 Good Tips 👌😉 enjoyed buddy 👌😉🏴
Thanks 👍
You're doing great logan
I have a Fox Factory 36 on my Ripmo and it is by far the best fork I've ever ridden. Thanks for the guide Jeff!
Right on Paul! That's a great set up!
Traction Tune RipmoV2??
I'm riding a 2019 Ripmo V1 with Grip 2. Curious what settings you're running ?
Is it correct in stating that having the LSC turned way out (counter clockwise) would improve jumping as the fork won't compress as much coming into the lip of the jump?
@@mackfrater7157 actually it's just the opposite but your fork tuning should have very little if any effect on how well your bike jumps. For reference my LSC is 7 clicks out (from fully turned in). What's most important is getting your air pressure correct so you have support for pumping jump faces, berms, heavy compressions.... your damping mostly effects feel. Slower (turned in) compression be more supportive but can feel harsh. Faster (turned out) will feel more compliant but can start to get too busy and wallow. The key is to find the right balance for control and traction. Jumping is more about good technique than good suspension settings.
@@paulwintermute1495
Thanks for the info !
Would you mind sharing your HSC and rebound settings as well? Maybe I can use that as a reference point
Good timing Jeff. I just got a 2019 36 factory for my trek fuel ex
Congrats Tarik! Thats a great fork and bike!
You rock brother!..🤘🏽🤘🏽see on the mountain some time brother
Sweet picking up the Occam with this fork Saturday.
friday night...no sleep
Congrats man, that's an awesome bike!!! Enjoy!
This is a much more relatable way to describe these elements. Thanks! Bham 4ever.
super good video
This was fantastic but I think we could all benefit from this information regarding HSR and LSR as much or more as this video. Only half done in my opinion. Would love to see you be able to monetize to videos anyway and we'll all like em both!
Tbh I’ve always understood HSC and LSC, and by extension the respective rebound, differently,
HSC usually refers to trail chatter; those quick and fast consecutive hitting stuff that happens when you ride over stuff like roots or gnarly rocks. Those hits are, well, “fast”, and usually repetitive.
Low speed would then refer to the stuff like the jumps or pump tracks, it’s usually solid, large movements from which you have time to recover from.
Hence, in HSC, it’s important to set it such that those consecutive hits don’t cause your fork to bottom out. You want to fork to eat those up, while rebounding fast to prep for the next hit.
On the LSC, it’s to ensure that your fork doesn’t dive on the landing after a large jump, and to also prevent it from bouncing you up again on the fork rebound.
A year later, but it may come in handy to someone: "speed" in LSC & HSC refers to the shaft’s speed, not the bike’s. You may ride full-on on a flowy smoothy trail and the fork will be in the LSC range. Conversely, you may hit a huge jump, or bumpy roots, at low (horizontal, bike) speed, yet trigger the fork’s HSC circuits.
I have a factory 34 with fit4 and have trouble getting traction at times even with a DHF but this helps.
Brandon, the 34 is a good fork but I did not get along with it for "high performance" riding. It was too flexy for me. The damping is OK, the Grip 2 is indeed better, but its the chassis flex that was harder for me to adapt to. Anyhow, a good gym routine would always be more beneficial than a new fork!
Hi Jeff! TT HX for the great Video. Would you mind posting your Fox settings (Clicks and PSI) of your Grip2 on the Ripmo? I'd be very keen to know. Thx!
👌🏽👍🏽👍🏽💪🏼. Question: clicks on HSR and LSC needs to be counted moving both adjusters simultaneously? Thanks!
I’m just gonna watch it even though I only have a rhythm and not a grip 2
Right on Jesse! That's still a great fork!
Damn Jeff, you're pretty friggin shredded. I would really like some details on your workout routine (if you have one outside of just smashing trails). I am pretty sure a LOT of people would be interested in this given how you ride. You can't ride like you do being weak and fat. Much props to your channel and always smash the like and use affiliates!
Thanks Matt- I did a video all about it here: ruclips.net/video/PvF_QNb1z-U/видео.html
Great. Video! Hey jeff what kind of bike bell do you use again? Thanks!
Thanks for this Jeff, good information! I am having issues getting my Fox 36 to get close to using all it's travel. Always have 25-30mm left even after big impacts. Running 20% sag and almost no compression and even after dropping a 10 additional PSI and around 25% sag, I seem to get the same point in the travel regardless and it won't compress more. I just removed a volume spacer (came with 2 installed), hopefully that helps. Maybe I am just used to my previous Fox 34 and Pike, that felt more plush and used more travel.
Fit4 or Grip2? I never saw bottom on my Fit4 as it was the most progressive damper I ever experience. The fox stuff is quite supportive so you will really have to ride hard to get it deep in the travel. Try zero tokens.
@@robprzy My 36 is a Grip2. My Fox 34 was Fit4 and it was hard to bottom as well, but not like this 36. I am trying just the one token today and will see how it goes. I'll try 0 next if needed.
@@superawesomefuntimego any update will great information... thanks
@@joriz5869 Ended up doing a lower service and there was excessive grease from the factory that was hindering performance. Once the service was done and greased to normal levels, the fork performed amazing, fixing the issues I was having with not getting all the travel.
@@superawesomefuntimego That makes sense. I for sure know you can completely bottom out even a 170mm 38 at the recommended pressure from a huck to flat.
Hi, thanks for a great video. Can u please explain how to setup a fox dhx2 shock
Yeah, I think the regular Grip damper and Fox recommendations are just fine for me. Haha
Honestly, on a bicycle, this stuff is not that critical. You can compensate for so much via technique. A good gym routine is FAR more beneficial than a Grip 2 over a Grip!
Hey Jeff, since you’re an Ibis guy any advice on setting up a traction tune HD5 (36 / X2)? I’ve found the Ibis recommended settings to be pretty squirrelly. Have you tried the standard Fox settings on the TT dampers?
Cheers for vid mate are you doing a fit4 one too pls
Any chance you have made another video on the Fox DHX2 coil shock? :)
When turning the HSC dial, the LSC dial also turns with it. Should I be holding the LSC dial from turning when adjusting the HSC dial? Same issue with the HSR knob - it also turns the LSR knob. Doesn't seem like you do. Thanks!
Hey any chance you could do a video on volume spacers? I’m about to start playing with them and I’d love a primer from you
The position histogram, where your fork spends its time, is the metric to view how spacers affect the feel. More tokens will steepen the rolloff. Less will widen it out making the fork feel more linear.
Rob's answer is SPOT ON. The way I think about it is that if I need so much high speed compression to keep from bottoming too much that the rest of the ride is oddly affected, then it's time to add a volume reducer.
it somehow looks like you count the numbers of clicks for the rebound in clockwise direction. But on the fox manuals it says: Fully close (clockwise direction) and then turn the number on the table out (coutner clockwise)
I have a Fox 36 Rhythm. I’m 50 years old and just started mountain biking about six months ago. I don’t do a whole lot of jumping but I do a little bit. Would a group today for even be beneficial to me?
Hi Jeff, when setting air pressure rebound should be fast or slow and compression minus or plus?
I’m using MI every time. Could you please do in depth video about balancing etc?
Wow Kim, you got the whole kit? nice! I only have a loaner fork sensor, but I'm hoping to do more with MI this fall!
Do you ever reduce your air pressure and add low speed compression to gain some small bump compliance?
yes, but don't go too low or you'll sacrifice midstroke support. For riders who like to pop at every feature, they prefer midstroke support at the risk of diminished small bump compliance.
Sweet🔥😍🤘
HI I am torn between getting a fox 36 factory with the grip 2 Damper and a Lyrik ultimate. A lot of people are saying that the fox takes too long to set up and the rockshox is over all better?
When setting up sag are ALL the settings set to wide open?? LSC
On the Fox 36 Girp2 fork. When all the adjustments are closed, the first click when backed out. Does that count as click 1, or is that actually 0 and then the one after click1? Because they fully close to a click.
What always gets me is that the dials say compression and rebound, but don't say damping. So, for example, I have to pause and think that + LSC actually means + LSCD and I don't mess with it enough for it to be automatic.
Wow, I'd think that'd be intuitive to understand, but everyone is different! Thanks for the note Sam!
Something has been confusing me alot with all the videos about adjusting these settings. Maybe you can clear it up for me. I have a Fox 38 factory Grip 2
When I spins the Highspeed compression i can clerly see that the low speed compression is moving also, is this not supposed to happen. I can see it happening in your video with the reound adjustment also. For example when you were adjusting the LSR around teh 2:30 mark the HSR wasnt moving, then you adjust the HSR and i can see the LSR knob turning with it, do those turns add truns to the ammount you've already put on?
The one thing I have trouble with is when should I add a volume spacer vs. adding HSC. Any advice on this?. Thanks
Tim, for forks, I would only start adding a volume spacer if your HSC needs to be so closed to prevent bottoming that it's affecting the ride as you hit more normal trail chunder. I've found that steep and jumpy trails will cause this.
What about how spacers interact with compression?
I don't need to hold the inner adjusters for compression or rebound in place when adjusting the outer ones, do I?
one question I have. is the weight used in the tech sheets rider weight naked or rider weight with all stuff like helmets protection, etc.?
It's usually person weight, so if you happen to carry an oddly heavy amount of extra gear, feel free to compensate the air pressure/damping. But it doesn't matter that much- a PSI or two to account for the 10lbs of riding gear isnt a big deal in the real world.
How does the Ripmo AF ride with the 170 fork? Any downsides?
Motion Instruments is awesome setup tool.
Yours will ship next week god willing :-)
Heck yep!!!
@@robprzy awesome. No more rentals for tuning and NEW BIKE DAY is just around the corner. DVO has already delivered a tuned shock.
Noob here: I need a video to explain what happens when you turn the 2 dials at the top of the fork.
(I have this fork, the left dial is different to the right dial.)
(My wife has the Fox 36 and the right dial can be shut off completely, which is really good for say a graded fire trail or cycling home from the trails.). Is it possible to shut off the Fox 36?
(It is the Fox 36 Performance Elite that I have...)
can you also do the fox float x2. thank you in advance!
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/_Z9wzS_6NXM/видео.html
@@JeffKendallWeed thank you jeff! i have ibis hd4! i appreciate it brother!
Wonder, what you think about fork setup for better front end traction, any tips? I just setup my fork to the recommended settings from fox and it felt really off and I lost confidence in corners. For me, it feels way more predictable or stable if i up the PSI about 5 over recommended and pull out almost all of the high speed compression and a lot more of the low speed.
Hey Mike, great question, that'll also depend on terrain and riding style. I'd be hesitant to use a lot more PSI than what Fox recommends, but 5 psi is pretty negligible. If you are happier running less damping, then that's great! I often run less low speed than what Fox recommends as well, and Ibis' whole new direction is to go to a lot less damping than what Fox recommends.
It also depends on bike geometry, I've noticed that on my Stampy Evo from the steep do this slack I have to tweak my air pressure and compression just a little bit. Foxes pressure chart it's just a starting point they don't know what geometry the bike that that fork is going on is going to be nor do they know how you're going to fit that bike, and all of that is going to affect your pressure.
I still don't get it, but I was able get my fox 36 dialed to where I'm happy enough not to mess with it again 🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha! The simplest way to think about low speed vs high speed compression is that low speed are inputs you give the bike (like pumping and pedaling), and high speed is when you hit stuff fairly hard.
No damping and you'll have uncontrolled spring, which doesn't help your ride that much. The damping simply provides some control, which allows the bike to do a lot of handling corrections on its own.
Same, I'm rethinking my whole set up even though I'm super happy with it. Now if I could get my DPX2 to feel halfway decent...lol
Whoa man, that crash….
Hiii. How many tokens you have ?
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the great Video.
One question about the knobs to adjust the HS/LS rebound.
Is it normal that if I turn the large knob CWS or CCWS that the small knob also starts to turn around?
Shouldn’t it be that the two knobs turn independent so that the adjustments can be done independently?
Actually I need to hold one knob so that the adjustment stays.
Thanks for the answer.
Best regards from Germany
Goran
Yes, totally normal! They're designed to work like this. The compression knobs will behave the same way. Moving the HS knob is not affecting your LS setting.
@@TFritz82 Just to clarify: Are you saying that when adjusting high speed rebound the low speed rebound will turn with it? Or do I need to hold the high speed rebound in place while adjusting the low speed rebound? Thanks!
@@elizalinde6006 nope, don't hold anything! Just adjust your hsc/lsc and hsr/lsr from closed (fully clockwise). If you wanna put your mind at ease, start with both hs and ls knobs fully closed and first open the hs knob to your desired setting, followed by your ls. You'll see that even though the ls knob turned with the hs knob, it is in fact, still closed. You can verify this by trying to turn your ls clockwise after opening up your hs first.
@@TFritz82 This is not the case for me. Both are fully closed (clockwise). I start by turning my HS to the left just 1 click (watching the LS knob move at the same time...), but then as you state above, I turned the LS to the right and it is in fact open 1 click...so they are moving together. I can't figure out why.
Can this measuring instrument give me a purchase connection
Damn. I must’ve watched your crash 20x. Ouch. I endoed last year going like 10mph. I’m still sore
I[m having dificulty time here to set my grip2 (before that i used to ride a lyric debonair) to be plush at rockgardens and brake bumps. i already open 16 clicks of HSC and all out LSC, but it continues to be a litle harsh at rock. all fox grip2 works like this? can you recommend any other test? i already try to use spacer and less preassure, or even try to use more or less rebound (tried both HSR and LSR).
Hey Juscelino, all three of my Grip 2 equipped bikes have been insanely plush. If the fork is too harsh, then try a lower air pressure for more sag. Feel free to go all the way to 25% sag. At 170 lbs (77kg) I'm still not very heavy, but I don't use much damping- I'll often go lighter than Fox's recommendation.
Also I'd say avoid the volume spacer unless you're doing a lot of huge jumps or crazy steep trails. I'd only go to the volume spacer if you require so much HSC to avoid bottoming that you then have a harsh ride on normal trail chunder.
@@JeffKendallWeed Thanks a lot! I`ll try a little more sag (I`m 85kg, using 80psi, 19% SAG).
Personally, I always focus on Pre-load first. I look at the average position on a G-narly downhill and if I'm 20-23%, I'm good. Then I focus on rebound. A lot of harsh feeling forks are because rebound is too closed. Think about the dynamics, fork compresses, doesn't rebound fast enough, you hit the next bump with the fork more closed than it should be, you feel like the bike has a compression problem because it's harsh. But this phenomena is called packing. If you notice Jeff's speeds, they are quite high on max rebound speeds. This will make the bike feel planted in corners, and plush in rock gardens. If you are a light rider, then sometimes the issue is you can't get a good air spring to push the fork down fast enough because the base tune is just too over damped for light riders. This is where data helps a lot because some suspension for some riders can't be dialed in, no matter how much time you spend. We see this with Pro Women EWS and DH racers. We first encountered this with Rae Morrison of the Liv EWS team.
May be a stupid question but I’m getting a trance ix two 2021It has a fox 36 on it. Do all fox 36 sharks have low speed and high speed rebound adjustments?
Depends on model. The Grip2 Factory is the high end damper with H/L Compression/Rebound settings. Fit4 didn't have high speed rebound. Lower models lose adjust-ability based on price.
Hey Ron, congrats on the bike! There are multiple level of 36 forks available- Rob's answer is spot on.
This is a dumb question but which way do your turn the dial to close for rebound since it's upside down haha.
Bull, just turn the bike upside down and the normal righty tighty (ie slower with more damping) will apply.
@@JeffKendallWeed Ha thanks Jeff, good video. Still working on the Fork. My Ripmo still feels a little bouncy in the rear even with compression totally open. Maybe slow down the rebound on the X2
Do you think it would be worth swapping out my RC2 damper on my 2018 Fox 36 Performance Elite for a GRIP2?
Hey John, I'd say a gym membership/weight lifting routine would be more beneficial. That said, I do notice substantially smoother action and more usable damping with the Grip 2. However, it'd be better to sell your fork and buy a fresh unit. The bushings are likely pretty worn at this point, and new bushings make a world of improvement.
@@JeffKendallWeed How'd you know I'm fat LOL. I'm planning to get a new bike once new bikes are available. Thanks for the advice!
Can you drop the Grip2 w/ VVC into a 2018 36 Fit4 (150mm)?
Yes you can. Between Fit 4 and Grip 2 I did notice an improvement, and for me it was worth it. I have not tried the new VVC tech but I read on Google that yes it'll fit the older chassis.
@@JeffKendallWeed great, I had a 36 w/ the 2020 grip 2 on a demo for a bit and was surprised how much better it felt
why my grip 2 damper has only 8 clicks of high speed compression
?
Hey! Did you get any answer why you have only 8 clicks? Ive just installed GRIP 2 cartridge in my fork, and only have 8 clicks.
Avalanche Kit incoming to replace my poor FOX internals....
What was wrong with the Fox stuff? What didn't it do well for ya? They work fine for me, though the Fox set up might be a tad overdamped for mellower riding.
Jeff Kendall-Weed long story but essentially I need new internals in the fork. I can run the new Fox internals but they do not have the RC2 available any longer. I liked the wider adjustment the older one offered. Now it sounds like the 2021 provides good Support through most of the range. So it technically will cost me about the same to do. Just thinking the custom tune and the improvement in service interval requirement may make the aftermarket set up a decent choice. ALthough in theory I would have the new internal in my older cheap fork and selling it to other would be easy. Since the fork wouldn't be specific for me and my riding style. IE smash every dam rock under 1 foot tall at full speed and hope wheels don't crack.
You said “no low speed compression” but the fork sagged…then followed by with low speed but the fork stiffened…confusing
when you said black box, thought you had a rockshox product from sram or something
Yes! My attempt at clickbait worked!
Hey Jeff! I just did a video on this fork setup and posted it this morning focused on Hardtail riders. As Im a fan of yours I would love your feedback! feel free to inbox me on insta or FB or just comment! Great video and hope you still healing up well!
Right on Ben! I'll need to check that out! I rode the 170 Grip 2 on my Stylus for a few days and didn't like it as much as I thought I would. The Message has been way cool on there- it's less plush, BUT the front end doesn't move as much up and down, and the bike handles like it's on rails!
Does the new grip 2 damper fit 2020 fox 36 forks?
I think you can buy a Grip 2 damper that will fit in 2017(?) or latter Fox 36 forks. I was considering upgrading my 36 with from a Fit/Grip to a Grip2. I also think Fox can do it as part of the service if your fork has the 125 hrs (???) and is time to rebuild.
@@eolle43 Yea I have the Grip damper in my 2020 36 fork and considering upgrading. The new 2021 Grip 2 damper has the VVC in it but the 2020 doesnt, which is why I was curious if the 2021 Grip 2 would fit in a 2020 fork.
@@Twisted_Biscuit According to a couple of web sites the 2021 w/ VVC will retrofit to 2015 + Fox and 2019+ Marzocchi's. Unlike the jump between the RC2s/Fits (with the bladder) and the Grip2 I doubt the VVC would be that big of an improvement. But buy what you like and ride it like it stolen ! :)
Hey Ryan, I haven't checked myself, but I googled that and saw an MTBR thread where they said that it would!
Yo behind the times should be trying the 38
You traded in the trust for the fox 😂
I'm confused with the title of the video. Why don;t you talk about rebound dampening, at all???
your fork is DOG-P hehehehheheheh
Still confusing after the video. Just ride it
this wasnt helpful or "easy"
so as with many fork suspension videos here is another one withe the biggest mistake made with the clicks on the 36g2.
this fork has only 12 clicks lsc and 16 clicks hsc from fully closed. even if you can turn the dial more than these clicks means that when you reach 12 or 16 clicks after that the fork is already fully open. so when somebody talks about 16 clicks lsc like you did in the vid NO!!!. it's 12 clicks and after that fully open... the clicks from 12 to 16 have no effect at all
in your video yoz stated you went with the recomended settings of fox and you ended up with 4 clicks more on both sides. well congratulations you are 2clicks away from fully open
every single suspension video out there make these mistakes. it's annoying
I think there are different types of forks out there for example my new 36 grip2 has only 8 clicks hsc and 16 lsc according to ridefox.com with my digit code
@@goasrippe yeah because that's the new vcc addition to the grip2 damper. if you look at fox's channel Jordi explains how the new VCC is working. With that they got rid of the click issues they had with the 2019-2020 grip2 dampers. the 2019 version could click up to 29 in hsc even though only 16 of them work. my 2020 has 20 clicks hsc and again only 16 are working because its specs are only 16
You tried but this is the most confusing video ever. You have to assume a viewer doesnt know a thing. You explain nothing about what the differences are between knobs on the top vs the knobs on the bottom.