What I would like to see: every chapter, pick one person (fox staff, pro rider or punter) and describe their setup for that day's conditions. (IE Jordi weighs xx kg an his 36s are xx psi with this and that clicks) Anyways, awesome content as always crew!
I don't think this is a good idea. There is so much more to suspension setup than just strangers numbers that you would blindly copy. You just got golden plate full of knowledge in this video to understand why and how so you could make your own setup to your riding style/riding speed/trails etc. etc. This makes you able to get your suspension DIALED!
@@LukasDePraga I see your point. All setups should start from zero (setting sag, knobs to recommended for your spring pressure) But I also think the experience of seeing dozens of setups for lighter and heavier riders, in a variety of track conditions, should be useful for developing our general sense for tuning our bikes, imo.
I wonder what you would obtain with having this info - other then rider specific setup - there is also ridestyle and technique and above all rider's preference which leads to a setting which is confidence inspiring. Not taking into account, tracks, conditions, tyres, tyre pressures, and frame specific details. Plus the idea of considering descending a WC-DH track is not the same as riding 1-20 different trails on a day. Setup in some ways is nearly always a compromise where you win and lose some.
No way. I literally just got a new bike with a grip2 36 and float x2, and have been searching the internet for a great explanation of compression and see "Fox posted a video on compression 30 minutes ago" Thanks for the video guys! Amazing as always!
That last section about opening compression to ‘soften’ the fork is something I’ve done far too many times - and that makes total sense. Thanks for explaining! Looking forward to trying the rebound a bit faster
Fantisticly captured and verbalized. Thanks team. This will really help my bike shop in NZ explain why takingba little time to tinker makes miles of ride improvement and efficiencey.
It would be interesting to hear some finer points on what order things may need to be adjusted in; for exmaple low speed compression before high speed, etc? Remember watching a video from vorsprung indicating the low speed compression would actually have an impact on the HSC range and have been curious ever since.
well done team this is exactly what I need!!! I would love more info on lsc and hsc, some people say small bumps and big bumps or fast fork speeds or slow fork speeds would be cool go get more info on the to settings cheers team!
Yur excellent in explaining, coaching, to guys like myself that can't turn a wrench worth a dam; mostly because we need to understand things broken down as you did. Great video and ur on point with being on cam Bru! Keep the vids rolling
This makes me feel like i'm not running enough rebound. Jordie made a great point about riding in the middle, stiffer part of the travel. I always default to 2 clicks open which.gets rid of any arm pump but feels harsh and now I know why. I am going to go faster two clicks at a time and see how it goes. Suspension settings confuse the sh*t out of me. Another great video boys.
@@downhill64 maybe it has also sth to do with how the geometry changes when the fork goes through the travel and the impact of this cange on the body position?
If you are riding a full suspension bike, set the shock up correctly before you start playing with the fork, otherwise none of the settings will actually make sense.
What I've learned over the years, is that the wrong rebound setting(s) can ruin your ride in many more ways and worse so than bad compression. Only a badly set up air spring is worse - but they usually come as a pair anyway. I often see riders frantically turning the compression knobs when in reality, it was one of the other two settings that got them in trouble but they never thought about it. Perhaps rebound dials should be on top and compression at the bottom? 😅
I feel like setting up suspension is like with the deraillure. First you make sure that the high and low limit, cable tension and guidewheel distance. After that the tightning and loosening on shifter will just do minor tweaking. With a fork you set Sag/air pressure and rebound. Then you use compression to fine tune.
I have a fox 36 rhythm run the rebound and psi near enough within the Fox recommended settings. But run the compression fully open as I found found that feels the best. I do add some compression for jumps and very steep tracks though
Great vid! I learn so much with you guys. Can u walk though and show how u would set up a new rider with the bracket system you use, from start to finish. H/L compression and H/L rebound to each setting
Thanks for this great explanation. What's your default settings? I would like to know how the amount of volume spacer correlate with the compression settings. It would be great to have a video for this topic as well. I know the question is kind of off-topic and highly individual but since I played around with volume spacer I didn't have a right starting point...
That comment from Jordy about using one error to correct another - just added so much more complexity to it. A part about high and low speed would have been nice, maybe you can do that too
Would love to know what Jordi Thinks about using a ShockWiz. Yes its better to learn what your suspension is doing and adjust... but curious. DIALED is absolutely Rad. Thx
I wish I understood it as well as I should, but this helped me tremendously. My biggest confusion comes from the labelling on the fork. Using a Rabbit and a Turtle does not help me one bit. Just having the plus and minus would do. Your explanation of the plus and minus were opposite of what I had previously though they meant even after research and other people explaining it.
Talking about rebound: - Rabbit makes it faster (minus) , Turtle makes it slower (plus) - the fork extending again after compression (impact) Too much turtle makes the shock not extend much after continous impact, making it dive and stay into a certain area of the travel. Too much Rabbit makes it bounce back fast and act for a nervous and twitchy ride. Normally you close/slow the rebound all the way (all the way to turtle / plus) and then you start making it faster (towards rabbit - minus) Work your way towards the rabbit in clicks of two to find a noticiable difference. Re-ride an certain part of trail until you find a setting which leads you to believe you've hit the right spot, or a certain zone which feels comfortable (usually it's an area of 3 clicks where rebound feels about right) (Shocks *usually* come with a table which indicate this zone that corresponds more or less for the riders weight / pressure) - If you are outside of your weight table, just follow the settings for the amount of pressure you put in - as an indication) Decide for yourself if you would stay on the slower or faster side of the 3 click zone and write down the whole shabang and there you have your startingpoint for rebound setup. The plus and minus can be confusing as they also throw terms around as fully open (fast - all the way to minus) and fully closed (slow - all the way to plus).
Great example and as always, clear and concise explanation from Jordi. It would be great to have a similar video with also high and low speed compression and rebound adjustment. Off topic: what mic did you use? It was windy but the voice was super clear, though there was no sign of lavalier or something... I'm curious! Thanx.
I would love to see a step by step guide to how you bracket. Do you start at middle setting of HS and LS rebound and middle setting HSC and LSC? Those four variables with 3 tests (middle, open, and closed) is 12 tests. Then you have to see how they combine: middle, +3, -3 etc.. 4 setting adjustments, 3 (mid, high, low) is 3x3x3x3 = a shit ton of tests. Am I wrong in my math here? Q: In corners I feel like my fork sometimes is skipping, or pushing back against me. Do I slow down HSC or LSC in this scenaio? When I jump of small bumps I get pitched forward and land nose heavy, is that a rear shock Compression or revound adjustment? I think it would require slowing down compression to fix this. Am I right?
DIALED S2-EP21...Pause the video at 31 seconds and BOOM....YOU GOT A PRO bracketing sheet! LOL... HUGE thanks to this channel and JORDI for helping a ON MTB guy understand suspension set up and bracketing.
I would guess the rear shock could use a little less rebound, and a little more low speed compression if you feel it kicks you forward on takeoff. It could also be the fork having a little to fast rebound or use a bit more low speed compression (diving on the moment where it can stay a little higher) I think for the cornering you should be a bit more precise what kind of cornering we are doing / speeds etc)
rebound 2/3 open. compression 3/4 open. open or close rebound a little more for pop or ground-hugging. close compression a little more for support. done.
Curious to ask, would you recommend a rooty section of trail as in your video to setup suspension? I do know of a section like that on my local trails. Thanks
I’ve watched dozens of videos on FOX setup and for the most part it’ll feel great, but once in a while I’ll tweek something based on terrain/weather and completely forget where I had my fork or shock settings. I wish there was a book on this for dummies 😂 what does each setting do independently? H and L compression and H and L rebound.
Hey guys, very informative as always. Could you give us a priority list when it comes to setup/bracketing? Where to start, front/rear, rebound/compression, pressure/volume etc. That would be awesome, thanks in advance. Cheers
@@LukasDePraga I think Slanrotan is asking, additionally, is which setting to test first, and I think the answer is, it doesn't matter, or, pick the one that most concerns you regarding the the day, your weight and sag, the bikes travel, the trail your riding and what your goals are for that trail on that day. Maybe there's a slight preference for one or the other setting to try first. Not everyone is racing DH, of course, so, it varies greatly. What do you think?
What he is saying about "bracketing" is somewhat intuitive even though the fork manufacturers don't explain set up anything more than setting the sag. I have a Fox 32 and I run the fork about 5-10 PSI higher than they recommend. I am about 200# so the short travel trail fork easily gets overwhelmed if I run 30% sag. I find about 25% sag and running my compression almost wide open and my rebound a few "clicks" to the closed side of neutral/middle works best for me.
What do they mean by "normal"? Do you start right in the middle for both compression and rebound? That's the only thing missing from this video, is that they show their already dialed setup and call it "normal", which doesn't help someone new to get a proper setup. It does clearly show how to ruin a dialed setup in different ways, though, which is still valuable for understanding compression and rebound.
I’m happy with my suspension setup for enduro/trail riding. What I struggle with is when switching to jumping (large jumps with steep lips) I subconsciously think I’m going to get bucked due to the fast rebound settings I run. Is this just a case of slowing my rebound down to setup for jumping large/lipped jumps. If so low or high speed? Or do I need to be on a totally different setting all together? I find myself making adjustments to the rebound on the rear for piece of mind Thanks
Hi, for jumps slow your rebound if needed. When it comes to low and high, low comes always first ( logic). See Vorsprung video about that. Very helpful.
@@dito_blabla yes always gone with low speed I just was unsure if the shock is deep in the stroke on take off would it affect high speed too. I’ll take a look at that thanks for the reply :)
I personally up my psi for jump sessions. Just on the front. There's a good reason DJ riders use less fork travel and pretty high psi in fork AND tyres.
Low speed compression adjusts the amount of compression damping the shock or fork exhibits as you roll over or into objects at lower speeds. The more the dial is turned in, or clockwise, the more compression, or resistance to easy deep travel, you are adding. Makes it stiffer, but only at lower speeds. Low speed rebound adjusts the amount of quick rebound, or return from travel, your shock or fork exhibits as you roll over or into objects at lower speeds. Turning the rebound dial in, clockwise, results in slower rebound, or return, when running at slower speeds. The shock or fork first compresses into travel, then returns, or rebounds, back to full extension, whatever that is, depending on the terrain and speed, etc. Does that help? Does anyone have anything to add, or did I get it wrong?
Guys, I was wondering, how do you know you've reached full travel on a coil shock? Is it just something you feel or is there a way to tell like in an air shock with the rubber o ring?
You'll hear the rubber bottom out bumper. Or on some coil shocks you can move the bumper along the shaft, if you do a run and it's back all the way again, you used full travel.
In these vids, no one mentions if one would want to change their suspension rebound speed & compression settings based upon how fast they're riding that day. For example: For a fast day at the bike park would one want a faster rebound speed than one would want on a slower up-and-down hilly cross country ride?
What would Jordi suggest in terms of dialing in the rear shock vs the fork? Should one go first? Do you need to do them simultaneously or separate? Also, as I pumped more air into my fork I had a harder time keeping my feet on the pedals through the CO chunk. Any suggestions?
This is what Dialed should be about considering it is with Jordie/Fox and all about making ones suspension work better. What am I feeling or the racer feeling and what to do to make it better. I think as Gordie touches on. This is what I am feeling but do I address it with spring rate, compression or rebound? Maybe Jordie can add some insight or info that the rider can use to make that choice. Perhaps a flow chart as a process for the layman.
So if I struggle to use fork travel on my 36, I should slow down my rebound? I run my rebound close to fully open. Also my compression open. I am the last guy Jori talked about.
Would like to see a set up video for the performance line. We all don't have factory suspension. Maybe basic but would help alot of people I believe! Thanks guys
To be honest I don't know. When making adjustments to compression/rebound on a performance fork does it affect more to the high speed or low speed, or is it somewhere in the middle? I know the principle is the same but just more basic.
I’m sorry, but the dudes working this need to do other things . Can FOX find adequate personnel to fit this bill, or are post champions or ex-race folks to expensive to support the channel. Come on…
What I would like to see: every chapter, pick one person (fox staff, pro rider or punter) and describe their setup for that day's conditions. (IE Jordi weighs xx kg an his 36s are xx psi with this and that clicks) Anyways, awesome content as always crew!
I don't think this is a good idea. There is so much more to suspension setup than just strangers numbers that you would blindly copy. You just got golden plate full of knowledge in this video to understand why and how so you could make your own setup to your riding style/riding speed/trails etc. etc. This makes you able to get your suspension DIALED!
@@LukasDePraga I see your point. All setups should start from zero (setting sag, knobs to recommended for your spring pressure)
But I also think the experience of seeing dozens of setups for lighter and heavier riders, in a variety of track conditions, should be useful for developing our general sense for tuning our bikes, imo.
100 percent would like the same thing.
I wonder what you would obtain with having this info - other then rider specific setup - there is also ridestyle and technique and above all rider's preference which leads to a setting which is confidence inspiring. Not taking into account, tracks, conditions, tyres, tyre pressures, and frame specific details. Plus the idea of considering descending a WC-DH track is not the same as riding 1-20 different trails on a day. Setup in some ways is nearly always a compromise where you win and lose some.
Super nice way to show these differences! What about doing the same high/low speed compression & rebound?
Love this technical overview for trail riders. We're not all dh elites.
Loris Vergier is a DH elite and....well... :D
No way. I literally just got a new bike with a grip2 36 and float x2, and have been searching the internet for a great explanation of compression and see "Fox posted a video on compression 30 minutes ago" Thanks for the video guys! Amazing as always!
The best way to dial in the compression on your rear suspension is to get rid of the x2 and buy a shock with better compression circuits
@@MountainPerson like?
Truck tour, nuts bolts and tools oh yeah!!!!
I sure don't know a lot about video-making, but you guys held an entire interview in the wind without any sound muffling. And that was pretty magical.
We have magical fox powers 👻🌀
Sometimes I think it’s easy to get lost in the “how to setup” vids but this was perfect 👌 thanks for sharing
I've watched a ton of videos on this subject... This one is probably the Best! Thank You.....
Probably the best break down i've seen for simpletons like myself. Thanks guys
Guys, love Jordi´s tech talk, as always great work, cheers
That last section about opening compression to ‘soften’ the fork is something I’ve done far too many times - and that makes total sense. Thanks for explaining! Looking forward to trying the rebound a bit faster
Fantisticly captured and verbalized. Thanks team. This will really help my bike shop in NZ explain why takingba little time to tinker makes miles of ride improvement and efficiencey.
It would be interesting to hear some finer points on what order things may need to be adjusted in; for exmaple low speed compression before high speed, etc? Remember watching a video from vorsprung indicating the low speed compression would actually have an impact on the HSC range and have been curious ever since.
I have the same confusion
such an awesome video.. thanx so much for all you do!!!! finally some detailed real world testing... Kudos
Used this technique on weekend and suspension is so good now...
Jordi rocks along with all of you on Dailed!!
I got a 2022 36 grip2 damper and I'm super impressed by it, no creaking in the crown yet either, and it's buttery smooth! Stoked!
I love this type of video and insight! PLEASE do a future one talking about shocks and the way that linkages can pay their role.
well done team this is exactly what I need!!! I would love more info on lsc and hsc, some people say small bumps and big bumps or fast fork speeds or slow fork speeds would be cool go get more info on the to settings cheers team!
Yur excellent in explaining, coaching, to guys like myself that can't turn a wrench worth a dam; mostly because we need to understand things broken down as you did.
Great video and ur on point with being on cam Bru!
Keep the vids rolling
Brilliant Jordie. Goin up bush to have a play now.
Great video guys, have a great weekend!
Thanks for taking the time to explain this
Love the tech suspension talk!
This makes me feel like i'm not running enough rebound. Jordie made a great point about riding in the middle, stiffer part of the travel. I always default to 2 clicks open which.gets rid of any arm pump but feels harsh and now I know why. I am going to go faster two clicks at a time and see how it goes. Suspension settings confuse the sh*t out of me. Another great video boys.
@@downhill64 maybe it has also sth to do with how the geometry changes when the fork goes through the travel and the impact of this cange on the body position?
If you are riding a full suspension bike, set the shock up correctly before you start playing with the fork, otherwise none of the settings will actually make sense.
Is there a “best” order to dialing in bracketing? i.e. Air Spring -> LSC -> HSC -> LSR -> HSR?
Love this series btw!!! 🦊👍
I've been told: 1. HSR 2. LSR 3. LSC 4. HSC
Thank you for this!!! Such helpful
explanations!!
Fantastic video, very intuitive.
You need that ghost technology from Cathro to do that side by side visual.
What I've learned over the years, is that the wrong rebound setting(s) can ruin your ride in many more ways and worse so than bad compression. Only a badly set up air spring is worse - but they usually come as a pair anyway. I often see riders frantically turning the compression knobs when in reality, it was one of the other two settings that got them in trouble but they never thought about it. Perhaps rebound dials should be on top and compression at the bottom? 😅
I feel like setting up suspension is like with the deraillure. First you make sure that the high and low limit, cable tension and guidewheel distance. After that the tightning and loosening on shifter will just do minor tweaking. With a fork you set Sag/air pressure and rebound. Then you use compression to fine tune.
Thank you! Love the content....wish there was more!
Yesss, that was great, thank you. More, more!
This was absolutely brilliant. Thank you so much for this.
I love the tech videos. There was a lot of valuable info in it. Thanks.
Great stuff guys! I always learn something. Thank you
One of the best videos you guys have made. Great stuff 👍
Really good, thanks team!
Keep these coming...please!
Great vid
This video was awesome!
I have a fox 36 rhythm run the rebound and psi near enough within the Fox recommended settings. But run the compression fully open as I found found that feels the best. I do add some compression for jumps and very steep tracks though
Great vid! I learn so much with you guys.
Can u walk though and show how u would set up a new rider with the bracket system you use, from start to finish. H/L compression and H/L rebound to each setting
such a great vid! so good you guys🤟🏻🤙
I’d like to see a more in depth video about compression tuning. High and low speed adjustments have some “interplay”.
Me too!
Thanks for this great explanation. What's your default settings?
I would like to know how the amount of volume spacer correlate with the compression settings. It would be great to have a video for this topic as well.
I know the question is kind of off-topic and highly individual but since I played around with volume spacer I didn't have a right starting point...
I was rolling over some roots and I could barely feel them, that’s when I understood how suspension wasn’t supposed to feel.
That comment from Jordy about using one error to correct another - just added so much more complexity to it.
A part about high and low speed would have been nice, maybe you can do that too
Thanks a ton!
Jordi is the best. Best explaination of setup. I love his Shirt with the orange spring on. Were can i get one?
Hi! Can you check if its possible to have a screen with the map running a route and the altitude profile of the route in the same screen?
Thanks
Why fox does not make a shockwiz? I use a rockshox shockwiz on my float X2 and helped me a lot
Would love to know what Jordi Thinks about using a ShockWiz. Yes its better to learn what your suspension is doing and adjust... but curious. DIALED is absolutely Rad. Thx
I wish I understood it as well as I should, but this helped me tremendously. My biggest confusion comes from the labelling on the fork. Using a Rabbit and a Turtle does not help me one bit. Just having the plus and minus would do. Your explanation of the plus and minus were opposite of what I had previously though they meant even after research and other people explaining it.
Talking about rebound: - Rabbit makes it faster (minus) , Turtle makes it slower (plus) - the fork extending again after compression (impact)
Too much turtle makes the shock not extend much after continous impact, making it dive and stay into a certain area of the travel.
Too much Rabbit makes it bounce back fast and act for a nervous and twitchy ride.
Normally you close/slow the rebound all the way (all the way to turtle / plus) and then you start making it faster (towards rabbit - minus)
Work your way towards the rabbit in clicks of two to find a noticiable difference. Re-ride an certain part of trail until you find a setting which leads you to believe you've hit the right spot, or a certain zone which feels comfortable (usually it's an area of 3 clicks where rebound feels about right)
(Shocks *usually* come with a table which indicate this zone that corresponds more or less for the riders weight / pressure) - If you are outside of your weight table, just follow the settings for the amount of pressure you put in - as an indication)
Decide for yourself if you would stay on the slower or faster side of the 3 click zone and write down the whole shabang and there you have your startingpoint for rebound setup.
The plus and minus can be confusing as they also throw terms around as fully open (fast - all the way to minus) and fully closed (slow - all the way to plus).
Hunter sauce on the schnitzel is the best and some spatzel on the side!!
Awesome video Ty 🤙
Always when I see these video's I wonder where I have to sign up to work in that truck.
Great example and as always, clear and concise explanation from Jordi. It would be great to have a similar video with also high and low speed compression and rebound adjustment. Off topic: what mic did you use? It was windy but the voice was super clear, though there was no sign of lavalier or something... I'm curious! Thanx.
I would love to see a step by step guide to how you bracket. Do you start at middle setting of HS and LS rebound and middle setting HSC and LSC? Those four variables with 3 tests (middle, open, and closed) is 12 tests. Then you have to see how they combine: middle, +3, -3 etc.. 4 setting adjustments, 3 (mid, high, low) is 3x3x3x3 = a shit ton of tests. Am I wrong in my math here?
Q: In corners I feel like my fork sometimes is skipping, or pushing back against me. Do I slow down HSC or LSC in this scenaio? When I jump of small bumps I get pitched forward and land nose heavy, is that a rear shock Compression or revound adjustment? I think it would require slowing down compression to fix this. Am I right?
ruclips.net/video/GPQnjSe6rdw/видео.html
We did that season 1
DIALED S2-EP21...Pause the video at 31 seconds and BOOM....YOU GOT A PRO bracketing sheet! LOL... HUGE thanks to this channel and JORDI for helping a ON MTB guy understand suspension set up and bracketing.
And YES....it takes a ton of riding for this kind of bracketing. NOT for the weekend warriors.
I would guess the rear shock could use a little less rebound, and a little more low speed compression if you feel it kicks you forward on takeoff. It could also be the fork having a little to fast rebound or use a bit more low speed compression (diving on the moment where it can stay a little higher)
I think for the cornering you should be a bit more precise what kind of cornering we are doing / speeds etc)
rebound 2/3 open.
compression 3/4 open.
open or close rebound a little more for pop or ground-hugging.
close compression a little more for support.
done.
Curious to ask, would you recommend a rooty section of trail as in your video to setup suspension? I do know of a section like that on my local trails. Thanks
I've got a few tweaks on top of the factory settings after some bracket testing but the the initial stroke on the 38 performance still feels harsh ?
I’ve watched dozens of videos on FOX setup and for the most part it’ll feel great, but once in a while I’ll tweek something based on terrain/weather and completely forget where I had my fork or shock settings. I wish there was a book on this for dummies 😂 what does each setting do independently? H and L compression and H and L rebound.
Hey guys, very informative as always. Could you give us a priority list when it comes to setup/bracketing? Where to start, front/rear, rebound/compression, pressure/volume etc. That would be awesome, thanks in advance. Cheers
On every FOX fork there is a table with recommended values for all the settings depending on rider weight. That is your starting point.
@@LukasDePraga I think Slanrotan is asking, additionally, is which setting to test first, and I think the answer is, it doesn't matter, or, pick the one that most concerns you regarding the the day, your weight and sag, the bikes travel, the trail your riding and what your goals are for that trail on that day. Maybe there's a slight preference for one or the other setting to try first. Not everyone is racing DH, of course, so, it varies greatly. What do you think?
What he is saying about "bracketing" is somewhat intuitive even though the fork manufacturers don't explain set up anything more than setting the sag. I have a Fox 32 and I run the fork about 5-10 PSI higher than they recommend. I am about 200# so the short travel trail fork easily gets overwhelmed if I run 30% sag. I find about 25% sag and running my compression almost wide open and my rebound a few "clicks" to the closed side of neutral/middle works best for me.
Prestons Ginger Beer 🤙🏼
Normal: 3:31
Compression closed: 4:21
Compression open: 5:12
Rebound closed: 6:49
Rebound open: 8:08
What do they mean by "normal"? Do you start right in the middle for both compression and rebound? That's the only thing missing from this video, is that they show their already dialed setup and call it "normal", which doesn't help someone new to get a proper setup. It does clearly show how to ruin a dialed setup in different ways, though, which is still valuable for understanding compression and rebound.
Hi guy I love your Videos! Could you do a another deep dive Into high and low Speed as well? Cheers! :)
Question for ya, Im a average rider and I use motion interments for a setup, what sort of speeds would you recommend for and enduro setup?
Is it good to ride soft fork and bit fast rebound I ride 38 performance elite grip2 ?
Brilliant
Maybe future add on video you can split the screens to show the difference of the how. the fork reacts sitting next to each other
I’m happy with my suspension setup for enduro/trail riding. What I struggle with is when switching to jumping (large jumps with steep lips) I subconsciously think I’m going to get bucked due to the fast rebound settings I run. Is this just a case of slowing my rebound down to setup for jumping large/lipped jumps. If so low or high speed? Or do I need to be on a totally different setting all together? I find myself making adjustments to the rebound on the rear for piece of mind
Thanks
Hi, for jumps slow your rebound if needed. When it comes to low and high, low comes always first ( logic). See Vorsprung video about that. Very helpful.
@@dito_blabla yes always gone with low speed I just was unsure if the shock is deep in the stroke on take off would it affect high speed too. I’ll take a look at that thanks for the reply :)
I personally up my psi for jump sessions. Just on the front. There's a good reason DJ riders use less fork travel and pretty high psi in fork AND tyres.
Can you guys explain more about the low speed compression and low speed rebound. Thank you
Low speed compression adjusts the amount of compression damping the shock or fork exhibits as you roll over or into objects at lower speeds. The more the dial is turned in, or clockwise, the more compression, or resistance to easy deep travel, you are adding. Makes it stiffer, but only at lower speeds. Low speed rebound adjusts the amount of quick rebound, or return from travel, your shock or fork exhibits as you roll over or into objects at lower speeds. Turning the rebound dial in, clockwise, results in slower rebound, or return, when running at slower speeds. The shock or fork first compresses into travel, then returns, or rebounds, back to full extension, whatever that is, depending on the terrain and speed, etc. Does that help? Does anyone have anything to add, or did I get it wrong?
I would wake up, have coffee, ripp them mountains with FPV drone, have a bite, then ripp it on the bike. Dayum.
Guys, I was wondering, how do you know you've reached full travel on a coil shock? Is it just something you feel or is there a way to tell like in an air shock with the rubber o ring?
You'll hear the rubber bottom out bumper. Or on some coil shocks you can move the bumper along the shaft, if you do a run and it's back all the way again, you used full travel.
In these vids, no one mentions if one would want to change their suspension rebound speed & compression settings based upon how fast they're riding that day. For example: For a fast day at the bike park would one want a faster rebound speed than one would want on a slower up-and-down hilly cross country ride?
Guys, quick question - why don't you upload higher quality than 1080? :(
LSR & LSC = flowy trails & technical climbs.
HSR & HSC = technical descents and jumps/obstacles impacts landing.
What would Jordi suggest in terms of dialing in the rear shock vs the fork? Should one go first? Do you need to do them simultaneously or separate? Also, as I pumped more air into my fork I had a harder time keeping my feet on the pedals through the CO chunk. Any suggestions?
We talked about this in the setup video. You go back and forth
would have been cool to sync this with one of the tester setups that graph what the shock is doing
Side by side of the 2 different extremes would be helpful too
Nice, just as I was about to go to bed, a new episode of DIALED popped up. So, bedtime got postponed 😄
This is what Dialed should be about considering it is with Jordie/Fox and all about making ones suspension work better. What am I feeling or the racer feeling and what to do to make it better. I think as Gordie touches on. This is what I am feeling but do I address it with spring rate, compression or rebound? Maybe Jordie can add some insight or info that the rider can use to make that choice. Perhaps a flow chart as a process for the layman.
it would be great if you could do low speed rebound and compression too
You had me at "schnitzel".
Vienna 🥳my home
So if I struggle to use fork travel on my 36, I should slow down my rebound? I run my rebound close to fully open. Also my compression open. I am the last guy Jori talked about.
Can you make a Video about how high and lowspeed work please
Jodi is a genius yup
I Would like to trie it on my Spindrift.. But Fox will Not delivery my 38. to Germany… i still Waiting over 8 months Right now
this video should be at least an hour long
Captain Helmet!
Jules’ face at 7:43. Not a fan of closed rebound 😝
shaffer and jake were distracted. my b
Would like to see a set up video for the performance line. We all don't have factory suspension. Maybe basic but would help alot of people I believe! Thanks guys
Why would it be any different?
To be honest I don't know. When making adjustments to compression/rebound on a performance fork does it affect more to the high speed or low speed, or is it somewhere in the middle? I know the principle is the same but just more basic.
Try it.
There are a few misunderstandings in this video.....
How to adjust your suspension the most difficult way, thats should be the title of the video
Post a easier video... Setting up my new float x2 right now...
Same video, but with Tokens
you should of just said keep it in the middle
The X2 SUCKS ! A money pit from my experience. Heavy and NOT shop serviceable. A money maker for Fox because you have to send it in for Service.
I’m sorry, but the dudes working this need to do other things . Can FOX find adequate personnel to fit this bill, or are post champions or ex-race folks to expensive to support the channel. Come on…